The Tioga Road

A History 1883-1961 Mather Plaque at

Published by Yosemite Association in cooperation with the Service.

First published in June, 1961; revised 1975; 1980 The Tioga Road A History 1883-1961

by Keith A. Trexler, Park Naturalist

It has been called the "road to broken larvae, fly pupae, baskets, rabbit and buf­ dreams." Perhaps, though, its many miles falo robes, salt and obsidian. Finds of of unexcelled scenic grandeur have fulfill­ these materials, not native west of the ed the desires, the deep-felt longing for a Sierra, help us trace the early Indian contact with nature's wilderness, even paths. Numerous highways of today, and the dreams of many thousands who have the Tioga Road, follow these aboriginal passed over its often twisting, ever-chang­ trade routes. (3) ing course. The Mono Trail, an Indian footpath from Crane Flat, through Tamarack Flat Before the Road via Lake to , Trails have existed across the Sierra was used by the first party of non-Indians since the first large mammals came hun­ to pass through what is now Yosemite dreds of thousands of years ago.Grazing National Park. Joseph Reddeford Walker animals — sheep, deer and even bear — and his party trekking over the Sierra, move up the Sierran slopes to find tender probably used the Indian pathway, evi­ young shoots as snowlines recede. Others dent even though many parts were cover­ travel over the passes seeking salt. John ed with snow. The group endured great Muir noted that especially in rugged and hardships and took over a month to make inaccessible terrain the trails of "white the crossing from Bridgeport Valley to the men, Indians, bear, wild sheep, etc., be San Joaquin. They were undoubtedly the found converging in the best places." (1) first white men to see the Giant Next to appear were the pedestrian In­ Sequoias. (4, 5) dians, whose midden piles near El Portal No records of man's use of the trails show evidences of transsierran trade from exist for the next 19 years. In 1852 1st Lt. at least as early as 2,000 BC (2). Indians Tredwell Moore and his troopers of the did not travel for pleasure; their purpose 2nd Infantry, pursued a group of Indians was trade. Acorns, berries, beads, paint wanted for the death of two prospectors ingredients, arrows and baskets were in , to and traded by the west slope Miwoks for the from there over the Mono Trail to Bloody Eastern Mono's pine nuts, pandora moth Canyon. During the trip Moore noticed

1 rich-looking outcrops and brought back baby, visited Yosemite Valley. This group, some samples of gold to Mariposa. A- perhaps the first to use the Tioga route mong those who saw Moore's samples purely for pleasure, journeyed over the was Leroy Vining, of whom we shall hear Sierra via Tuolumne Meadows and Tena­ more later. (5) ya Lake, taking the Coulterville Trail to Moore's expedition reports interested Yosemite Valley. (11) Other evidence in­ James M. Hutchings in bringing the first dicates that the Mono Trail was being tourists into the Yosemite Valley, and, ac­ used for tourist travel, especially by cording to Brockman, "public interest in hikers from Yosemite Valley heading for mining opportunities east of the Sierra Tuolumne Meadows. (12) was kindled, resulting in the development 's first visit to this spectacular and use of a trail in 1857, from Big Oak country was in 1869 with a band of sheep. Flat through the Tenaya Lake-Tuolumne In traveling to the meadows, John and his Meadows region. This route approx­ charges followed the general course of the imated the old Mono Trail and was for- present Tioga Road. (13) In the same year runner of the present Tioga Road." (6) J. H. Soper and E. G. Field with only In 1852 Leroy (or Lee) Vining led a blankets and a "supply of crackers and group of prospectors over the Sierra via sardines" hiked over Mono Pass, met a Bloody Canyon and generally explored sheepherder (Muir?) in the Meadows, and the region. Although Vining settled in followed the trail out to Coulterville. (14) what is now Lee Vining Canyon he appa­ By 1870 railroads had come to within a rently did no mining. Instead he home- few miles of the west end of the Mono steaded about two miles up-canyon from Trail. In 1871 Copperopolis was a termi­ the present power plant and built a saw­ nus of the lines from . Tra­ mill, thus being the first to settle in the vel to Yosemite Valley was increasing. Mono area. For a time he supplied lumber More than likely, visitors took side trips to the eastside mining camps, but his ca­ over the trail to Tuolumne but no reer ended in an Aurora saloon where he records exist of their trials and tribula­ accidentally shot and killed himself. (8) tions. The Big Oak Flat Road reached Although no rush followed Lt. Moore's Crocker's in 1871 and Yosemite Valley in discoveries, there was in 1857 an exodus 1874, but still there was no road to Yo- from the Tuolumne mines to the Dogtown semite's high country. (7) An economic and Monoville settlements near Mono boost was needed. Lake. (5) Much of the old Mono Trail was The Mines used by the gold-seekers and the route Although Lt. Moore's discoveries ex­ was well blazed and cleared by Tom cited the Mariposa miners, nothing in the McGee "following very closely on the old way of true mines seemed to come from foot trail". Bunnell makes the point that the reports. Early in 1860 a prospecting Indian trails were unfit for pack animals. party consisting of a justice of the peace, He felt they "had been purposely run over an ex-sea captain, a surveyor, a dentist ground impassible to horses,..." (9) and a professor was prospecting in the The early 1860's saw the coming of Bloody Canyon area. The dentist, George Josiah D. Whitney of the Geo­ W. "Doc" Chase, remarked, while camp­ logical Survey. His description of the ed near Tioga Pass, that if they could but headwaters of the Tuolumne was publish­ spend one more day in the area he could ed in 1865, with Tioga Pass (which he locate and claim "the biggest silver ledge called MacLane's) being noted as 600' ever discovered." The next day he placed lower than the present route (Mono Pass) a flattened tin can, on which he scratched and perhaps a better transcontinental the location notice with his knife, on route. (10) Tioga Hill. The ore he carried out was In the summer of 1858 a party from never assayed as he and his partners ar­ , including a woman and rived at Monoville just when the Aurora

2 Great Sierra Mine Cabin, Tioga Hill strike was made. Each made money but produce pay dirt. (15) none ever returned to the "thundering big On February 25, 1882 the Great Sierra silver ledge" on Tioga Hill. (15) Tunnel was begun by twelve miners Some 15 years later, William Brusky, working three 8-hour shifts. Soon it was Jr., while herding his father's sheep, found evident that drilling machinery would be a rusty pick and shovel and a flattened tin needed. (17) This was purchased and can, on which he could make out, shipped to Lundy, on the east side of the "Notice, we the undersigned" and the date Sierra. The Homer Mining Index report- 1860. Having heard of the lost mine, ed:"The transportation of 16,000 lbs. of Brusky took ore samples to his father, machinery across one of the highest and who tested them and pronounced them most rugged branches of the Sierra worthless. Young Brusky did not discour­ Nevada mountains in mid-winter where age easily. The next summer he "sank a no roads exist, over vast fields and huge small hole in the ledge and procured some embankments of yielding snow and in better looking ore." It was not until 1877 the face of furious windstorms laden with that an assay found the ore to be rich in drifting snow, and the mercury dancing silver. attendance on zero, is a task calculated to Claims were not actually made until appall the sturdiest mountaineer; yet J. C. 1878 when nine were established and the Kemp, manager of the Great Sierra Con­ Tioga Mining District organized. (15) The solidated Silver Co. is now engaged in "city" of Dana, site of the Great Sierra such an undertaking, and with every pro­ Mine, was given a post office in 1880. (16) spect of success at an early day—so com­ In 1881 the Great Sierra Consolidated Sil­ plete has been the arrangement of details ver Company, financed with eastern and so intelligently directed is every capital, bought up all claims on Tioga Hill movement. The first ascent, from Mill and started drilling a tunnel destined to go Creek to the mouth of Lake Canyon, is 1784 feet into the mountain, but never to 990 feet, almost perpendicular. From that

3 today, and then the work will be pushed day and night, with two shifts of men." It took Kemp and his men more than two months, from March 4 until May 6, to move the eight tons a distance of about nine miles. It is said that Kemp's remark at the end of the back-breaking task was, "It's no wonder that men grow old!" (15) The machinery was installed and put to work immediately upon its arrival at the mine. Meanwhile, on March 13, 1882, a post office had been established at Ben- nettville, company headquarters. (16) Miners swarmed to the area. More than 350 claims were located in the Tioga Dis­ trict alone. Bennettville was touted as an excellent location with ample room for Machinery hauled over the snow in 1882; 50,000 inhabitants, an abundant water Great Sierra Tunnel at right. supply and invigorating climate. (17) Other claims were found. The May point to the south end of Lake Oneida, a Lundy about 10 miles north of Tioga pro­ distance of about two miles, is a rise of duced $3 million, though the Golden 845 feet, most of it in two hills aggrega­ Crown, Mt. Hoffman and Mt. Gibbs ting half a mile in distance. The machi­ groups followed the Great Sierra exam­ nery will probably be hoisted straight up ple. (15a) In 1881 the Sierra Telegraph to the summit of Mount Warren ridge Co. built a line from Lundy to Yosemite from the southwest shore of Lake Oneida, Valley via Bennettville. (15) an almost-vertical rise of 2,160 feet. From On July 3, 1884 the boom was over. A the summit the descent will be made to financial "crisis" occasioned the Great Saddlebags Lake, thence down to and Sierra's Executive Committee to suspend along to the gap or pass all operations and soon Dana City and in the dividing point to tunnel, a distance Bennettville joined the silent ranks of of about one mile, is a rise of 800 feet, fabled western ghost towns. Although most of it in the first quarter of a mile. more than $300,000 had been spent, as "The machinery consists of an engine, best we know no ore ever left the Sheep- boiler, air compressor, Ingersoll drills, herder mine for milling. (15)* But a road iron pipe, etc. for use in driving the Great had been built. Sierra tunnel. It is being transported on The six heavy sleds admirably constructed of Expectations of success and needs for hardwood. Another, or rather a pair of large quantities of supplies coupled with bobsleds accompanies the expedition, the the near disaster of hauling mining ma­ latter being laden with bedding, provi­ chinery over the snow led the Great Sierra sions, cooking utensils, etc. The heaviest Board of Directors to consider the build­ load is 4,200 lbs. Ten or 12 men, two ing of a wagon road to the mines. Al­ mules, 4500 feet of one-inch manila rope, though trail routes had been established heavy double block and tackle and all the to the eastern railroads via Lundy and available trees along the route are em­ Bloody Canyon, the new road was to ployed in snaking the machinery up the cross the Sierra from the west with goods mountain. The whole being under the to be hauled from the railhead at immediate supervision of Mr. Kemp, who remains at the front and personally directs (*For the complete story of the mines see every movement. It is expected that all Douglass H. Hubbard's Ghost Mines of sleds will be got up into Lake Canyon Yosemite.)

4 At the end of the Great Sierra Wagon Road, Bennettville, 1898 Copperopolis via the Big Oak Flat Road. fornia and Yosemite Short Line Railroad Civil Engineer R. F. Lord in 1881 esti­ monies provided supplies, via Lundy, for mated the total cost to build a road from the survey crew. (28) nearCraneFlattotheminesat$17,000. (27) The survey party advanced to White In the fall of 1882 the company gave the Wolf before snowfall. Work was resumed go-ahead and Charles N. Barney was as­ the spring of '82, and Tioga Pass was signed as engineer with William C. Priest reached in July. The Bodie Daily Free as his assistant. Both the survey and con­ Press noted that "Engineer Carpenter's... struction began at once. H. B. Carpenter survey (was completed) for the California and H. P. Medlicott conducted the road and Yosemite Short Line Railroad from (and railroad) survey with a Mr. Hall and McLean's Pass... to Mono Lake Valley" on John V. Ferretti as chainmen. In addition July 20. (19) In August the Free Press to making the road survey the group was commented on the fate of Tuolumne Mea­ picking a line for a railroad "to make the dows' hospitable hermit, John Lembert: shortest and most direct route from the "Now, however, the spirit of civilization east to San Francisco." Years later the in the person of John L. Ginn, Chief Engi­ pass was considered for part of the Union neer of the Yosemite Short Line Railroad, Pacific route. (23) has planted the survey stakes of a railroad In July of 1882 the California and line within a hundred feet of the hermit's Yosemite Short Line Railroad had been in­ door, and it is a mere matter of time when corporated in Sacramento to run from his lonely reveries will be broken by the Modesto to Mono Valley via "old Lee shrill whistle of the locomotive." (20) Vining Creek or McLean Pass" with its Chainman John Ferretti recalls meeting "Principal place of business, Bennetts- John Lembert who was living in a hut that ville, Tioga Mining District." J.C. Kemp to him "looked more like a bear trap than Van Eee, C. W. Curtis, O. H. Brooks a place for human habitation" over Soda and R. W. Woolard, all of the Great Sier­ Springs. Ferretti was somewhat awed by ra Consolidated Silver Co., organized the the hermit but found him friendly, though company with $5 million capital stock saddened by the advent of the road. with $250,000 actually subscribed. Cali­ Another incident recalled by Ferretti

5 tember 4th, 1883." In 130 days the 56Vi mile stretch was completed at a cost of $61,095.22, or about $1,100 per mile. From the columns of the August 11 Homer Mining Index we learn of con­ struction progress and methods. "The Great Sierra Wagon Road is rapidly ap­ proaching completion. Harry Medlicott's graders from this side have reached the upper end of Tuolumne Meadows, while Priest's pick and shovel brigade from the other side are on Rocky Canyon Creek, leaving a gap between of little more than three miles, all of which is easy grading. Priest's powder gang, following the picks and shovels, reached Lake Tenaya Thurs­ day and will skip the heavy blasting John V. Ferretti along the margin of the lake for the pre­ concerns one of the survey party's mules. sent and follow up to the Tuolumne While camped on the River, after which one hundred blasters mules had been stampeded by bears and will be put on to finish the three-fourths one "had slipped into the little stream and of a mile along the lake. It is believed hung itself." Later, on the return trip, that freight wagons will reach Tioga by Ferretti found the construction gang or before the end of the month. The con­ camped in the same spot with the dead struction of this road was a stupendous mule only a few feet upstream from their and costly undertaking and the Eastern water point. capitalists to whose enterprise and public After completing the survey through spirit the people of this county and coast Tioga Pass, the surveyors tied in the mine are indebted for a great thoroughfare to a locations and disbanded. John Ferretti hitherto inaccessible but rich and exten­ joined the construction gang as a black­ sive region, deserve to be remembered smith's helper and general roustabout. His with gratitude." pay was augmented by pies, cakes and According to one report (24) there cookies slipped to him by Sing Lee, the were 90 white men and 250 Chinese in camp cook. John's final act on the job in­ the employ of the company. Another cluded splitting his big toe with an axe. alludes to 250 men (21) and a third a 160 The "first aid man" applied "a large chew man crew of Chinese. We are certain that of tobacco, took a rag and tied it up, at least 35 Chinese were at work on the guaranteeing that it would be as good as Tioga Road in '83 as a receipt for their new in a few days. At that moment...I hospital tax, paid for by the Road com­ severed my connection with the Tioga pany, is part of the Yosemite Museum Road for all time." (21) collections (26). Pay rates were phenom­ Construction progressed at an awe­ enal: the Chinese received $1.20 per day, some rate. Nearly one-half mile of fin­ the Caucasians $1.50 (25) The foreman, ished road was turned out by the 160 James Lumsden of Big Oak Flat, was man crew for each day on the job. (22) most pleased when his wage was ad­ The fall of '82 saw the road advance vanced from $1.75 to $2.00 per day in from Crocker's to as far as the present recognition of his making "changes of his park boundary, about two miles. (21) On own accord which the surveyors after­ April 27, 1883 work was resumed "and it wards said were more practical." In addi­ was carried forward without interruption tion all hands were supplied with excel­ or accident until finally completed Sep­ lent board. (24)

6 On the Tioga Road, about 1890 Soon after the Great Sierra Wagon think $1,000 expended next year after the Road was completed, "a big jollification snow is gone will put it in as good a was held in Sonora" with many promi­ shape as ever." (44) nent men of the day in attendance. (24) Although technically a toll route, no The road was built! collection gates ever were set up and the road was used frequently by tourists, Travel Prior to 1915 army troopers and stockmen. Little men­ But was it ever used for the purpose tion is made of the physical condition of for which it was built? Probably not. No the road until 1894 when the Homer records survive to prove the point, but it Mining Index informed its readers, "A is known that no ore was ever shipped man who recently came over the Great out of the mines and special equipment Sierra wagon road reports it to be in purchased for use in the Sheepherder execrable condition. It should be kept in tunnel never got beyond San Francisco tolerable condition if the company wishes where it was sold at auction after the to hold it; but, as a matter of real fact, it mines had closed. should belong to the Government and be Priest's report of August 4, 1884, "all kept in prime order, as an eastern outlet clear from snow and being repaired" to Yosemite Park." (45) leads us to believe at least some of the However poor its surface, the Great Great Sierra Silver Company's business Sierra Wagon Road was being used. One was conducted over the route. (43) The party remarked, "The road is very rough last mention of the road in company in places, but is not impassable." They records is dated 19 October 1884, more recommended a light wagon be used in than three months after cessation of attempting the route. (46) Another group operations at the mines. "The road is in reported "fallen trees and washed-out very good condition and will probably roads had bothered us many times . . . remain so during the winter and spring. but in no case had done more damage to Cross ditches have been put in all the us than to shorten our day's journey by way from Bennettville to Crockers, and I five or ten miles." Their method of travel

7 included unhitching the horses and trans­ By 1899 enough interest had been porting the wagon across "difficult" stret­ generated that the army was directd to ches with block and tackle attached to clear the road for a Congressional com­ convenient trees. (47) mission inspection. Their report contains Official reports decried the condition an excellent description of the road at the of the road, intimating it was something turn of the century. "The grades vary less than a footpath, and a difficult one from 0 to 10 percent and the width from at that. (32, 52, 56) Replies from the at­ 10 to 20 feet. The road, however, was torneys of the owners, though admitting skillfully laid out and it may safely be the road had not been kept in excellent said that most of it has a of only condition, maintained that it was pas­ about 3 percent . . ." It was "exceedingly sable for its entire length by wagons and well built, the bridges having fine stone horse travelers. (33) This war of words abutments, and there is a particularly continued for more than a quarter cen­ well-built section of sea wall along the tury. shore of Lake Tenaiya." Most of the The army superintendents were espe­ original surfacing was gone and the road cially vocal. Captain A.E. Wood started was obstructed in numerous places by the ball rolling in his first report (1891) fallen trees. "It appears that no work in saying that although trees were down the way of maintenance has been done across the road and that it was badly by the owner of the road for a number of washed in places it made "a good years, though some slight work has been mounted trail, and as such is of much done by campers traveling over it." The importance." (48) Later reports reiterate commissioners estimated the cost of con­ and expand upon Captain Wood's obser­ structing a similar road to be $58,000, vations, and, in addition, urge the Inter­ though the original outlay was found to ior Department to purchase the rights to be $61,095.22 Their final assessment was the route. (49, 50, 51) It was noted that that the road was in fair condition, that "The foundation shows excellent work, its value was $57,095, that $2,000 would intended to be permanent." (50) suffice to put the road in original condi­ tion and that the Federal Government In 1896 a bill authorizing purchase of should purchase the road as soon as toll roads within the park was considered practicable. (59) by the House but did not get to the floor for a vote. (58) The next year the cost of Fate, most likely in the form of the repairing the "extremely out of repair" sinking of the battleship Maine, inter­ road was estimated at $10,000. (51) Two ceded and though the bill was read in the years later a bill was introduced in Con­ House, it was never passed. (54) A se­ gress to authorize surveys for a new road cond bill was proposed in 1901 to pur­ from Yosemite Valley to Mono Lake chase all toll roads within the Park for which apparently duplicated the Tioga $208,000, and it too failed of passage. Road which was then considered impas­ (57) sible. (60) The Acting Superintendent in In 1902 the Secretary of the Interior 1898 was of the opinion that the road appointed a second committee to survey was government property by default. the park's toll roads. They, like their pre­ "This is not a toll road and never has decessors, urged immediate government been; it has been abandoned by the control of all park roads. (61) Superin­ builders for more than twenty years; if tendents' reports for the years following they ever had any rights they lost them upheld the committee's views, with one by abandonment. The eastern half of the exception — Major W.T.Littebrant in road is in such bad condition as to be 1913, in a notable example of short­ hardly a good trail. I consider the Tioga sightedness, felt that trails and mules Road the most important highway in the would be sufficient for park administra­ Park." (56) tion for the foreseeable future! (62)

8 Army cavalry patrolled the Tioga Road for 25 years In 1911 the Bulletin under W.C.N. Swift, as trustee, purchased the the heading "Old Tioga Road to be entire properties of the Great Sierra Con­ Acquired," noted that "The Government solidated Silver Company for $167,050. brought suit ... to condemn an unused (15) For an additional $10, Swift ob­ toll road ... to make it part of the new tained the Tioga Road toll franchise from system of roads through Yosemite Na­ W.C. Priest, (31) who remained in charge tional Park. W.C.N. Swift ... is named of the road. (66) The mine properties and as defendant." (63) road were sold for taxes in 1895 to One of the most telling comments on Rudolphus N. Swift, and remained the the condition of the road is contained in property of his heirs until 1915. (67) All a 1912 letter from Major W.T. Forsythe, during this period the firm of Wilson and Acting Superintendent of the park, to the Wilson handled the affairs of the road's Secretary of the Interior. "Several wa­ owners. Through them we hear the gons passed over the road last summer, "owner's side of the story." . . . but also last summer I had to order a Immediately after Captain A.E. Wood's gratuitous issue of rations to a destitute initial blast, Wilson and Wilson offered family who were moving by wagon to the Secretary of the Interior an affi­ across the park from the east side by the davit from Road Superintendent Priest. Tioga Road because their team became "That said road is about 20 feet wide on exhausted on account of the difficult an average and that teams may pass with road and their food supply gave out convenience, with few exceptions, before they could get through. (64) throughout the entire length of said road, What of the owner's side of the story? and that in the opinion of this deponent Before answering we might well ask, as said road is the best road that has ever did Yosemite's acting superintendent in been built on the Western Slope of the 1913, "who were the owners?" (65) At a . . ." (68) The battle is Mono County sheriff's sale in 1888 joined!

9 Wilson and Wilson's tenor was not so want is not at all felt." All of the fallen positive some four years later. They trees are out of the road and . . . taken as noted that the road had not been aban­ a whole I consider it a better road as it is doned, but "we confess that they (the today without any work on it, than the owners) have been somewhat neglectful Ward's Ferry road ... to Groveland by reason of the slight travel . . . upon . . ." He made 38 miles in one day over the road." (66) It was the attorney's opin­ the Tioga Road. (74) ion that the road would have been kept With the suit of 1911 in progress fur­ in repair had a road been completed ther depositions were made. Mrs. Crocker down the eastern side of the Sierra. (59) was in the fore stating that "repair work "If and when that eastern portion is com­ (was done) in 1912 and the road opened pleted the owners intend to resume the as usual to travel. It has been opened and collection of tolls." The law firm urged traveled by teams (both heavy and light the United States to purchase all the toll wagons), people on horse back and roads in the park and was of the opinion pedestrians every year since its construc­ that this would have already been done tion. It has never been closed to travel, "but for the extreme difficulty of in­ except . . . when . . . blocked by snow. It ducing Congress to spend money on any is still in fair condition with the exception new project, especially one which neces­ of two or three places at Lake Tenaya sitates a regular annual expenditure for and Yosemite Creek . . ." (75) maintenance." (69) Swift's attorneys proclaimed that con­ In answer to charges that since tolls siderable sums had been expended on up­ were not being collected the road be­ keep of the roads (though no documen­ longed to the government by default, tation of the expenditures was presently Allen Webster pointed out that the available) and that the franchise stand­ owners had spent thousands of dollars in ards, i.e. a 100 foot wide roadway, had repairs and that toll gates were not been lawfully maintained. They cited the erected because of light travel. (70) fact that the counties through which the As the debate progressed others were road passed had always accepted the brought in to testify on behalf of the Company's tax offerings, implying that road. Mrs. H.R. Crocker, whose home all the franchise conditions were being and place of business was Crocker's met. The reason advanced for non-collec­ Station, the western terminus of the road, tion of tolls was that the Company did commented in 1907 that there was consi­ not receive enough in returns to keep a derable travel over the road this season man on as tollmaster. Their final opinion and "all are unanimous in its priase . . . was that the United States had no claim Travelers had no trouble in getting over to the road except by lawful and fair the entire length with team and heavy purchase. (33) The suit was never pressed wagon." She reported some repairs to the to completion and the debate remained road, including replacement of the Yos- unresolved until 1915. emite Creek bridge which had been out for eight years, by persons in her hire. Business Ventures (71) Soon after completion of the Great Later correspondence from Mrs. Sierra Wagon Road William C. Priest of Crocker repeats her original points, with Big Oak Flat, at the request of the Direc­ the added suggestion that "something tors of the Great Sierra Company, was should materialize towards its (the assigned the right to collect tolls by the road's) permanent repair." (72, 73) counties of Mariposa, Tuolumne and In 1908 Andrew P. Dron found the Mono. Rates established were: Freight road to Soda Springs in "excellent condi­ teams with two horses, $5; single horses, tion." He noted that two or three bridges $1.50; passenger teams, each horse, were out over small streams, "but their $2.50; footmen, $1; horse and rider, $2;

10 The western portal, Crockers Station, 1901 pack animals, $1.50; loose horses and Rancheria. cattle, 50c!; sheep and goats, 10c! each. Crocker's Station was construction (29) A congressman quoted the rates as headquarters during the building of the working out to 3'Ac! per person per mile, Great Sierra Wagon Road and later pro­ comparing favorably with the 3V3c! on vided a comfortable stopping place for the Big Oak Flat Road, 3c! on the those using the road for business and Coulterville and 2c! on the Wawona pleasure. Many well known names grace Road. (30) No records exist of toll reve­ the Crocker register, among them John nues. The Swift heirs, successors to Muir, Stewart Edward White, Edwin W.C.N. Swift's purchase of the toll Markham and Herbert Hoover. The franchise in 1888 for $10, (31) stated that resort was considered by many "the though considerable sums had been spent showplace of the road." Although sold on upkeep of the road no tolls had ever by Widow Crocker in 1910, the station been collected. (33) continued to serve the Yosemite-bound Other enterprises were more profit­ until 1920, when several of the buildings able. Since the early 1880's H.R. Crocker were moved and the rest allowed to had operated "Crocker's Sierra Resort" decay. (34) stage stop on the Big Oak Flat Road, just Some ten miles northeast Jeremiah west of the present park boundary. Mr. Hodgdon built, in 1879, Yosemite's first Crocker and his young wife with the help and only two story log cabin. (34) Un­ of ex-sea captain Allan S. Crocker, pro­ known to Jeremiah, the cabin would later vided excellent board, clean rooms and house some of the builders of the Great diverse entertainments to Chinese Camp Sierra Wagon Road, would provide shel­ and Yosemite Stage Company passen­ ter for the cavalry patrolling Yosemite gers, private travellers, campers, and National Park, (38) and in the 1920's even Indians from a nearby Miwok become the center of a busy tourist stop

11 Aspen Valley Resort, 1931. Homestead Cabin, at left, now at Pioneer Yosemite History Center, Wawona on the Tioga Road. In 1931 the Aspen which housed a dining room, kitchen and Valley Lodge complex included the lodge, small store, two tourist cabins, a power a rooming house, store, gasoline station, plant, and the ubiquitous gasoline station auto repair garage, laundry, restaurant comprised the assessable property. (35) and the old two story log homestead Relocation of the road and the tourist cabin in use as a storehouse. (35) A park hiatus of the second world war brought entrance station and ranger station were the operations at White Wolf to a stand­ located nearby. With realignment of the still. After three years of very indifferent Tioga Road in 1937, profits dropped and lessee proprietorship, the Yosemite Park closure of the facilities was assured when and Curry Co., in 1952, with govern­ public use of the old road was discon­ ment purchase of the land and facilities, tinued in World War II. Private summer acquired the concession rights, and the homes and a logging operation existed following year opened the rejuvenated into the 1950's. Most of the land even­ unit as one of the . tually became acquired for park pur­ 1960-1961 saw the improvement, by the poses: the homestead cabin was moved , of the public to the Pioneer History Center at Wa­ campground and access road. wona. Between White Wolf and Tenaya Lake, Next stop on the line for the eastbound a distance of nearly 20 miles, no accom­ visitor was White Wolf, named by a modations have ever existed, though sheepherder who saw a white wolf there. camping was, and is, permitted in desig­ Settlement at White Wolf probably be­ nated spots along the road. On August 1, gan with crude shelters for the Meyer 1878 an enterprising Irishman and one­ boys and their ranch hands. Little is time Yosemite guide, John L. Murphy, known of early developments, but in homesteaded the meadows abutting the 1930 it was reported, "Mrs. Meyer is in south end of Tenaya Lake and a small charge of a believed-to-be well-paying portion of the north shore. Thirty days resort . . ." Twelve tents, a main building later he planted 52 brook trout from the

12 White Wolf, 1931 ; in 1882 a correspondent ping place' . . . that will be found quite for the Bodie Daily Free Press reported, satisfactory to all comers who are not "the lake is swarming with fish, some excessively hard to please, and that may already two feet in length." Mr. Murphy have a more piquant interest to persons was established! to whom the shifts and devices of moun­ In 1881, Archie Leonard, destined to tain life are matters of some novelty." become one of Yosemite's first rangers, (42) put on a ten-horse saddle train between Murphy's hospice served as a stopping Yosemie and Lundy. (39) Business must place for the Great Sierra Wagon Road have been good for Leonard and Murphy surveyors as well as H.L. Childs' Ben- as numerous articles proclaiming the nettville to Yosemite Valley telephone virtues of the trip and its accommoda­ line construction crew. (20) Later visitors tions appeared in the Bodie and Lundy included Helen Hunt Jackson, John Muir tabloids. One reporter opined, "Lake and . Nothing is known of Tenaya is destined to become a watering the operation from 1890 to 1916 when place of note . . ." (20) and Murphy's is a the Desmond Park Company set up a place "where good accommodations will tourist camp on the site of Murphy's be found, where the scenery is particu­ place. The Yosemite Park and Curry larly grand, picturesque and beautiful, Co., Desmond's successors, closed the and trout are abundant." (40) Tenaya operations in 1938 in favor of a Another author commenting on "where more isolated location at May Lake, thus to go and what to do" gives us an idea of establishing another of the High Sierra what accommodations were like there. Camps. (39) "The business of accommodating tra­ Although Tuolumne Meadows had velers at Tennayah has not yet reached been touted as an excellent camping spot sufficient dimensions to warrant the esta­ since Lt. Moore's 1852 visit, little was blishment of a fully modernized hotel. done to oblige visitors to the area. Mr. Murphy has . . . maintained a 'stop­ Cabins were built in the 1880's by sheep-

13 The Tioga Road , California LEGEND Park Boundary Great Sierra Wagon Road Sections Rebuilt 1936-1939 Section Rebuilt 1958-1961 Map Scale in Miles

14 15 Murphy's cabin at Lake Tenaya, August 16, 1896 men using the meadows for summer pas­ the problems of running a campground ture. (38) John Lembert's reign as the within a public park, with all the pro­ "hermit of the Sierra" extended over a blems — overuse, sanitation, policing — period of about 10 years during which that attend such an operation." time he offered what hospitality and help The National Park Service operated the he could to the wayfarer and tourist. (42) campground for three years, then closed Lembert homesteaded the Soda Springs it. The Yosemite Natural History Associa­ property in 1885, (41) though he had tion presently provides information and spent his summers there since at least interpretive services at Parsons Lodge. 1882 and perhaps earlier. Hermit John Tuolumne Meadows Lodge was open­ left the Meadows in 1890 after being ed in 1916 by the Desmond Park Com­ snowbound and losing his profitable pany and is currently operated by the angora goat herd. After Lembert's mur­ Yosemite Park and Curry Co. In addition der below El Portal in the spring of 1896, to the lodge there is now a store, restau­ his brother sold the homestead to the rant and service station operated by the McCauley brothers of Big Meadows. concessioner plus National Park Service They in turn sold it to the Sierra Club in ranger stations, campgrounds and a small 1912 (41); three years later the Parsons museum. For the first few years of opera­ Memorial Lodge was built. (39) The tion of the Tioga Road as a park route, Sierra Club occupied the property until the park entrance station was in the December 1973, when it was sold to the meadows; it has since been moved to National Park Service for $208,750. The Tioga Pass. Club sold the property, because of The East Side "growing problems connected with man­ Even before the Great Sierra Wagon aging the campgrounds, Parsons Lodge, Road was completed, suggestions and and the nearby Soda Springs." (39a) surveys for routes down the eastern "Neither the Club nor the Foundation are escarpment of the Sierra had been made. equipped or prepared to adequately meet At first only horse trails over the Mt.

16 Lee Vining Canyon and the Lee Vining grade, looking toward Mono Craters Warren divide and down Bloody Canyon clared, "The new State road from Mono connected the Tioga mines with the Lake to was completed last Mono valley. In 1899 the California De­ summer and is reported to be a monu­ partment of Highways urged the building ment to the skill of the State engineers. It of an eastside link in the Tioga route "to has a maximum grade of seven per cent, make Yosemite Valley, the high Sierras, and is a good road for automobiles. The and more attractive and old Tioga road (not now available to accessible." A bill, authorizing appropri­ autos) . . . should be repaired without ations for construction of the section was delay, so as to afford one of the most passed by the California legislature in wonderful trans-mountain trips in the 1897, but did not become law because of world." (79) Maps in 1910 Yosemite a technical error. Highway engineers National Park booklets show the Tioga recommended the Lee Vining Creek route route as a through road to the east, as the best and estimated construction despite the Park Superintendent's warn­ costs for a 16 foot roadbed at $30,000. ing that the "road is in wretched condi­ (76) tion." (80) In 1913 the California State Monies were forthcoming in 1899 and engineer, asking if the Tioga Road was in the Tioga Pass-Lee Vining line was selec­ condition for travel, noted that the east ted. Construction began three years later. side road is "in excellent shape." Major (77) By 1905 all but the five miles east of Littebrant's reply was that "the Tioga the pass had been finished. The cost— Road through Yosemite National Park is $39,000. One bid of $23,861 was received impassable except for saddle animals." for the remaining section but work was (81) (82) delayed until an "understanding with the During 1939 and '40 the Lee Vining owners of the Tioga Road proper, re­ Road between Tioga Pass and Lake garding their non-resumption of the col­ Ellery was widened and realigned at a lection of toll" could be reached. (78) cost of $78,000. "The completion of this The Sierra Club Bulletin of 1909 de­ improvement is regarded locally as one

17 Top speed permitted, on straight stret­ ches only, was 10 miles per hour, with 6 m.p.h. as the limit where curves were evident. (87) In January 1915, Stephen T. Mather, an enthusiastic booster of auto travel in the National Parks, accepted the post of Assistant to the Secretary of the Interior. One of his first concerns in the new job was to make park travel easier. "A cash primer was called for to set the process off. Mather thought about this and had a familiar reaction. He hauled out his checkbook. For a curtain-raiser to his park's administration he wanted to make some noise — preferably in Yosemite, which had high hopes for 1915, Califor­ nia being set for two "international expo­ sitions." Casting about for an idea, he remembered the Tioga Road, a broken- down east-west thoroughfare, fifty-six miles long (and privately owned) that bisected the park. Since the Tioga Road was the only potential automobile route aross the 270 mile wall of mountain stret­ ching from , back to Bakers- Tuolumne Meadows, 1915, from a 1913 field, to , south of Lake Pierce Arrow Touring Car, one of first to Tahoe, its resurrection would be both travel the Tioga Road. beneficial and widely acclaimed. Mather of the highlights of the 80 years of man's thought about all this and then began to struggle against the barrier of the Sierra show an inner turmoil, a characteristic at this crossing." (83) The State's plans mark of his approach to a weighty deci­ for the Lee Vining grade include realign­ sion. He gave the impression of being ment and widening. (84) carbonated. Automobiles Arrive His associates were startled, but when Although the first auto entered Yos- they learned what was gurgling in him, emite Valley in 1900, it was not until they politely pointed out that the govern­ 1913 that they were authorized legal ment could not make repairs on a road it entry. On August 16, 1913 the first auto did not own, and even if it could, it permit was issued by Ranger F.S. Towns- would not. "I'll buy the road, have it ley. The car drove into the Yosemite repaired myself, and donate it to the Valley via the Coulterville Road (the government," said Mather. They smiled. only one open to autos) and was promp­ The United States of America is not a tly chained to a tree. (6, 85, 86) Accord­ university or charity foundation. Giving ing to Townsley, auto travel began in things to the government was almost as earnest in 1914 despite the more than 60 suspect as making bank deposits to the separate regulations aimed at limiting account of a Cabinet officer or placing a vehicular traffic in the park. Not only bomb under a Senator's front porch. was oneway traffic the rule, but strict Congress must examine and pass upon schedules had to be met. Fines of 50 cents every gift. "All right," said Mather. "My per minute were assessed the hapless motives are pure." He had a special pro­ driver who dawdled along the way. (86) vision drafted for the Appropriations

18 "FIRST" DEDICATION OF TIOGA ROAD - is shown breaking the christening bottle on the $15,000 rock representing the purchase price of the road. Those shown were at the dedication: 1. to r. - Clyde Seavy, California State Board of Control; Horace Albright, assistant to Stephen Mather; W. Gillette Scott, Inyo County auto enthusiast and road promoter; E. O. McCormick, Southern Pacific Railroad; Mather; Congressman F. H. Gillett; Chief Geographer Robert B. Marshall, U.S. Geological Survey; Dr. Guy P. Doyle, Bishop; Dr. J. S. McQueen, Inyo County; Dr. Henry Fairfield Osborn, American Museum of Natural History; Dr. S. E. Simmons, Sacramento. Committee authorizing the Secretary of to accumulate the purchase price. Julius the Interior to accept any donations of Rosenwald, a philanthropist was money, land rights of way, etc., for the good for $1,000; Thomas Thorkildsen of national parks. That, he did not doubt San Francisco donated another $1,000, for a moment, would do it. Fitzgerald while the Modesto Chamber of Com­ surprised him. The Congressman, sure merce and Sierra Club collected about that only a black-hearted briber would $6,000. Mather donated the balance. (88) want to donate something to the govern­ He then arranged for the Tuolumne ment, tore the provision up. County Surveyor to begin clearing of the "Mather had to look for help to the old road and asked William E. Colby, his California Senator James D. Phelan and friend and fellow Sierra Clubber, to pur­ to an old Chicago friend, Congressman chase the road from the Swift estate as William Kent, then of Kentfield, Califor­ Mather, being a government employee, nia. The two Californians, with some was not in a position to donate the road difficulty, managed to wheedle Fitzgerald to the United States. (89) Authorization into relaxing long enough to approve a to accept the road came from Congress limited provision covering gifts to Yos- on March 3, 1915 and formal title was emite, setting Mather free finally to go transferred to the U.S. on April 10, 1915 ahead on the Tioga Road, which, he for a consideration of $10. (90) learned, carried a purchase price of Mather next organized the first of his $15,500. He made up his mind to raise as famous "mountain trips," outings de­ much of that as he could by subscription signed to convince the influential or and to contribute the balance himself." wealthy participants of the need for more (88) and better National Parks. Robert Shak- Calling upon his friends, Mather began land's description of the group's ride up

19 the Lee Vining grade on their way to the ranging from 2,000 to 10,000 feet, for the dedication of the Tioga Road is a classic S5.00 entrance fee. (92) comment on that stretch of the highway. The following year 578 westbound "Coming over the Lee Vining Road, they autos checked in at Tuolumne Meadows. followed an interesting road — just a (93) After more than $30,000 had been fraction more than one-car wide with an spent rehabilitating the old mining road unfenced drop-off of as much as two it became apparent that the route needed thousand feet. Local men were at the a thorough reconstruction, with some wheels, and the one handling the open realignment, to bring maintenance cost Studebaker that contained E.O. McCor- down to a reasonable level. Mather mick, Ermerson Hough, and Horace asked Congress for $75,000. (94) The Albright had not yet, though a native, money not forthcoming, park officials become bored with the scenery. He began maintaining the road as best they would glance ahead briefly to gauge the could. curves, then rise from his seat, twist Gabriel Sovulewski's construction re­ around, stare off over the grisly precipice ports, 1916 to 1922 (95), helps us re­ into the distance, and, with a hand he create the tremendous task of keeping the kept free for the purpose, point out undoubtedly decrepit road in shape for features of the landscape. McCormick, auto travel. In 1916, 24 men and two up front, was mute with terror. In the teams of horses were assigned to the road rear, safeside door open, Albright and which was "in many places badly washed Hough sat crouched to leap. Albright . . . (with half mile sections) . . . almost was trying to keep one hand on the open destroyed by dangerous washouts." Yos­ door and one foot on the running board emite Creek bridge was gone and was and at the same time hold off Hough, replaced by a "permanent" structure. In who was clawing at him and hoarsely addition more than 30 trees were down whispering over and over: "G d across the road between Tenaya Lake that scenery-loving cuss, G d and Tuolumne Meadows. By the end of that scenery-loving cuss!" To their sur­ the season the roadway was placed "in prise, however, they made the top of the very good condition considering the state range. There Mather formally dedicated in which it was found in the spring . . ." the Tioga Road to public use, breaking a The public speaks "very highly of the champagne bottled filled with Pacific park roads, and there has been nothing Ocean water at a spot where it would but praise for the Tioga Road, though flow both east and west. The night was conditions are far from satisfactory and spent camping with the Sierra Club at not as we would like to have them." Tuolumne Meadows, and the next morn­ During the 1918 opening, 1200 pounds ing the party started on its final run, to of powder was used to blast 150 trees off the Yosemite Valley. It broke up there on a five mile section of the road. Later that Thursday, July 29." (88) season damage from thunder storms was The 1915 report of the superintendent frequent and costly, nearly $6,000 being of National Parks noted that the Tioga spent to keep the road passable. Road had been acquired, was being reha­ By August of 1922 Sovulewski consi­ bilitated this summer and was formally dered the road in excellent condition. opened July 28. "When same has been However that fall, severe storms undid put in shape it will be the most popular all the work and soon it was evident that pass for transcontinental tourists through the road was being destroyed "faster than the Sierra Nevada . . ." (91) During the we could keep up with repairs." There 1915 season 190 cars entered the park via was no question now, there must be rea­ Tioga Pass and the comment was made lignment and reconstruction. Preliminary that a visitor to the park could now plans were laid in the late '20s, but the travel 260 miles of road, at elevations job would not be complete until 1961.

20 Bus travel over Tioga to Lake Tahoe became popular in the 1920's

21 National Park as a park, that is, without any special consideration or use of the Yosemite Valley, also seems to be coming into its own. This is a good sign." (97) The Tioga Road gained popularity throughout the 1920s. Each summer the opening of the road was attended by fish fries and celebrations with local digni­ taries in attendance. (98) From about 1925 onward an intense interest in earlier opening dates, mostly on the part of businessmen from east of the Sierra, began. Park Superintendents were cau­ tious, replying that early openings were too costly when considered in terms of the price of snow removal and increased maintenance. (100) Newspaper and magazine ads of the day, as well as government produced leaflets, entreated every citizen to visit his national parks and especially to travel "the world's greatest mountain tour through Yosemite to Lake Tahoe." (99) The finest accommodations were avail­ able on the route as well as comfortable campsites and excellent trout streams. (101) Stephen T. Mather and W. B. Lewis studying road location in 1925 Everything was not as advertised, however. "All motorists with camping Meanwhile the road was in ever in­ outfits are obliged to undress completely creasing use. and be fumigated for a full hour." Hoof Entrance stations were set up in Tuol­ and mouth disease had struck California umne Meadows and Aspen Valley in and the foregoing applied to those head­ 1918. In the same year a California ing into Nevada from points west. The Motorist article praised the road but re­ circular to all park personnel continued, produced a map showing 20 per cent "This information should be given to grades near May Lake. Top speed on those inquiring regarding conditions straight stretches was 20 m.p.h., with along the road. Giving of this informa­ reductions to 8 m.p.h. when ascending tion is bound to result in discouraging and 12 m.p.h. when descending hills. travel east of Tioga Pass!" (102) (96) Another, not quite so personal factor Steve Mather's annual report for 1918 was beginning to discourage travel over praised the road in no uncertain terms. the Tioga Road. The nation's highways "Again last summer did the Tioga Road were being improved and expanded at an amply justify its purchase and presen­ amazing rate and the motoring public tation to the park system. Again did it was becoming accustomed to smooth prove the need and popularity of a motor well paved thoroughfares with high gear gateway to the upper wilderness . . . grades and easy curves. The Tioga Road Fifty or sixty automobiles a day traveled was not such a route. It remained an all- the Tioga Road last season" with many dirt road until 1937. It was as Gabriel drivers making the complete trip to Lake Sovulewski put it, "only an old-fashioned Tahoe. "It will be noticed that Yosemite wood-road."

22 Yosemite Advisory Board, 1953, with Supt. John C. Preston 1. to r., W.E. Colby, F.L. Olmsted, Mr. Preston, J.P. Buwalda Reconstruction Parks Council, was past of the As early as 1925 consideration had Sierra Club and recipient of the Cornelius been given to realignment and recon­ Amory Pugsley medal for American struction of the Tioga Road. In that year Scenic and Historic Preservation. Profes­ Director Mather visited Yosemite to sor John P. Buwalda, geologist and de­ walk-out suggested routes with Park partmental chairman at California Insti­ Superintendent B. Lewis. tute of Technology, was the member of (103) In the years following, various the group perhaps best able to advise on routes were studied and rejected, with the Yosemite landscape, having done the Park Service submitting each for considerable scientific study in the area. detailed review by conservationists, engi­ In 1932 a preliminary field survey was neers and other interested groups. made with the tentative route marked Among the consulting groups was the and declared open for inspection. Several Yosemite Advisory Board whose three field trips were made by interested groups members were imminently qualified to and by 1935 there was general agree­ pass judgement on the various proposals. ment, including the concurrence of the Chairman of the Board Frederic Law Sierra Club (104), that the present route Olmsted, whose father, the "Father of of the realigned Tioga Road would be the American Landscape Architecture," was one followed: (See map.) instrumental in the setting aside of the Meanwhile, work had begun on the Yosemite Grant, was in his own right a eastern and western sections. In 1932 world famed landscape architect, an contracts were awarded for construction expert on parks and park development of the Tioga Pass to and former director of the California section. Funds for the job, $250,000, State Park Survey. (A prominent over­ were allocated from monies received look on the new road has been called from San Francisco as "rental" for the Olmsted View.) The second member of area. (106) Fifty thousand the Board, Duncan McDuffie, had served dollars from the same source was to be as Chairman of the California State made available for the Crane Flat to

23 White Wolf portion, with work to begin After a hiatus of more than 50 years, in the spring of 1935. (107) cattle again were driven over the Tioga Paving of the 11.6 mile stretch of the Road in 1943. Permission had been new Tioga Road from Cathedral Creek granted because rubber and gasoline through Tuolumne Meadows to Tioga shortages made truck transportation of Pass was completed in the fall of 1937 the Aspen Valley herds an impossibility. and for the first time in its history the (112) one-time wagon road had a dustless Post War Developments section. (108) During 1938 the 21 mile Following World War II, travel to the McSwain Meadow (White Wolf intersec­ parks resumed its upward trend and by tion) to Cathedral Peak section of the 1950 use of the Tioga Road had increased unchanged bed of the Great Sierra Wa­ more than 30 per cent above the pre-war gon Road was oiled for the first time, level. Correspondence increased, too, (109) and with the completion of 14.5 both favoring and condemning the mid­ miles of new road between Crane Flat dle 21 miles of the Tioga route. While and McSwain Meadows on July 18, 1939, some feared damage to the park's scenic an era had ended. (110) Although nearly values would result if the route agreed a quarter-century would elapse before upon in 1935 was built, many more the 21 mile central section of the old road feared the old road itself and worried was replaced, clouds of dust no longer about the more personal damage to obscured the vistas or irritated the ad­ themselves or their cars while negotiating venturesome motorist. the "horse-drawn" alignment of the re­ Clouds of a different sort appeared on maining section of the Great Sierra the horizon. World War II brought to a Wagon Road. halt the further development of the road. The latter point of view became domi­ Lack of maintenance funds during war­ nant as the travel picture changed. Larger time caused the closing to the public of cars and increased use of house and the Aspen Valley section of the old road. camping trailers made the old road a A couple of "war stories" bear repeat­ nightmare for many drivers and passen­ ing. After the road was closed for the gers alike. winter in 1942, a man with his wife and The American Automobile Association three children managed to plow his car warned, "It is not unusual to find people through the drifts, after breaking the . . . unused to mountain roads, who just Tioga Pass gate. He was met by a ranger go to pieces, freeze at the wheel and park at Crane Flat and it was decided the best their cars in the middle of the road to course of action for disobeying the road wait for the Park Rangers or a kindly closure was to have the visitor return to motorist to drive their cars the rest of the the pass in his own car and repair the way." (115) And such was the none too gate, a round-trip of 148 miles. "The happy picture on many a crowded sum­ visitor had intended to drive through the mer day. park without stopping, but he became so The general tenor of the many com­ delighted with the trip back over the plaints being received was that the road Tioga Road that he decided to stay in the was not only freightening to drive but park for several days longer. Ranger was completely unsafe, a trip over it Givens, who accompanied the man to being tantamount to committing suicide. Tioga Pass, states that the man was a The facts do not bear this out. In actuali­ real lover of the mountains and that he ty accidents on the old 21 mile section enjoyed his punishment immensely. Not were so few that "a statistical analysis is only was he taught respect for park regu­ all but impossible. Our records are not lations, but it is certain that this punish­ complete for the early days of use, but it ment left nothing but good will for the is believed that no lives have been lost on Park Service in his mind." (Ill) the narrow highway since automobile

24 travel was initiated in 1915." The pri­ north of is, in our opinion, a mary problems were road jams on steep grave mistake, because it would intrude a slopes due to vapor lock, "dented fen­ road into an area that is now and will ders, house-trailers caught between trees, remain wilderness in character if the road mechanical failures and the overheating is not built." The Board endorsed the of many people's tempers when a speed Park Service's original plan throughout. of 20 miles per hour was alien to their Accordingly, it was determined that experience on a narrow mountain high­ the 21 mile central section of the Tioga way." (116) Road would follow the route as proposed Other complaints were more reason­ by the Service and as strongly endorsed able and to the point. "While perfectly by the Yosemite Advisory Board. There safe (since one must drive it slowly), it remained, however, the question of imposes undue anxiety on the driver." standards — what would be the most ap­ (113) "I feel this road is . . . unsafe for in­ propriate construction standards for the experienced drivers." (114) An experi­ new central section and who would be enced driver summed up the general the best qualified person to undertake feeling against the road thusly, "These 21 this study? Director Wirth was able to miles are the most exasperating I have secure the services of the country's most ever driven. I will personally guarantee outstanding authority in this field in the there isn't a trickier road anywhere. It is person of Walter L. Huber. Mr. Huber a good deal like a roller coaster, only was not only a noted consulting engineer rougher! But if your car's in good shape and past president of the American and you are confident of your driving Society of Civil Engineers, but a nation­ skill; if you are looking for an adventur­ ally recognized authority in the field of ous route and breathtaking scenery, conservation. He was a former president there's no better place to find them than ot the Sierra Club and present chairman along the Tioga Pass Road." (115) of the National Parks Advisory Board. If the Tioga Road was to adequately Mr. Huber had often been called to serve the public it needed immediate im­ advise State and Federal agencies con­ provement. Although the routing had templating construction where esthetic been long approved, World War II considerations were important. delayed action and considerable discus­ After field and office studies Mr. sion was to ensue before construction Huber advised, "I feel that the Tioga Pass began. road is and must remain essentially a During the late 1940's and early '50's, a park road. For this purpose I consider the series of alternate routes were suggested 20 foot width of pavement to be satisfac­ by individuals and conservation groups. tory, i.e., two 10 foot width travel lanes. One plan, the "high-line" route via Ten For the "Section in Through Fills," I Lakes and the northeastern slopes of Mt. would recommend that the 3'0" shoulder Hoffmann was proposed by Superinten­ on either side of the pavement be wid­ dent Thomson. The Park Service again ened to 4'0". I note that this is to be a sought the advice of foremost experts in stabilized base native grass shoulder." I the field. hope this specification will be retained William E. Colby, an esteemed San with insistence, otherwise, shoulders are Francisco lawyer, noted conservationist soon coated and from the motorists' and Sierra Club officer, in concert with viewpoint look the same as pavement; fellow Yosemite Advisory Board mem­ thus we have in effect a 24 foot pavement bers J.P. Buwalda and Duncan McDuffie without shoulders and once the motorist replied, "This is a subject to which the is over the edge he is often in trouble." Yosemite Advisory Board has given very He approved the Park Service standards careful consideration over a long period on the remainder of the road, i.e., 2 foot of years. The proposal to route the road shoulders. (117) These recommendations

25 and from Olmsted View were accepted by National Park Service ever reconstructed in the National Parks and Bureau of Public Roads officials and has had the detailed study and considera­ were incorporated in the final road plans. tion that has been given to the Tioga (119) Road. The route and standards were Actual construction began in 1957, under intense study for 31 years . . ." with contracts let that year for clearing (122) (123) Associate Director E. T. and grading 6 miles on the west end of Scoyen summed up, "When the debris of the 21 mile section and 4.5 miles of the construction operations is cleaned up and easternmost portion. (121) At that time the project fully completed, I am sure the total cost of re-doing the 21 mile there will be virtually unanimous appro­ section was estimated at $4,658,000. val of this road which is designed to pre­ (120) sent to the motoring public a sample of Preservation of scenic values was up­ high Sierra park wonderland ... I am permost in the minds of all connected sure that hundreds of thousands in future with the project. If slight realignment years will be thankful for this opportun­ would save an unusual natural feature — ity to receive enjoyment and inspiration an ancient juniper, a lodgepole pine from superlative scenery." (125) grove or glacial erratic boulder — the During the winter with construction change was usually made. (121) halted, plans were completed and bids At this time Director Wirth pointed were let and accepted for the remaining out, "There were changes made in the 10 miles of the 21 mile section. (118) plans for the Tioga Road which took into The full 21 mile central section was consideration several of the suggestions completed and officially opened to the made by the conservation people ... I public on June 24, 1961. The cost was think the final decision was a good deci­ $5,491,000. The cost of the western and sion which took into consideration the eastern sections was $1,450,000, or a many problems confronting us. No road total cost of $6,941,000 for the 46 miles

26 One of several interpretive signs at Olmsted View from Crane Flat to Tioga Pass. the main route. One such section leaves The Tioga Road Today the new road just east of the White Wolf The Tioga Road today is the most intersection and winds and twists five scenic route in all California and one of miles down to Yosemite Creek where the the most outstanding park roads in the visitor will find the same primitive quali­ entire National Park System. It has been ty campground which has served travel­ carefully designed and built to display ers on the old Tioga Road since it was the dramatic park values of the Sierra first constructed. An additional two mile Nevada. The road is the highest trans- section of the old road climbs via Snow Sierra crossing with an elevation of 6,192 Flat to the May Lake Trail Junction. feet at Crane Flat and reaching 9,9.45 feet Other shorter sections still serve the 46 miles later at Tioga Pass. It is designed primitive campgrounds along the old for leisure travel (commercial trucking is road, all of which have been retained. not permitted), with numerous turnouts What has the visitor's reaction been to and overlooks where the park visitor the new road? It has been favorable and may stop in safety to enjoy the superb has drawn expressions such as "Now you scenery. At each of these vista points, the can see something," "What a relief," "It's visitor will find interpretive signs which a pleasure to drive it," are common. The introduce and acquaint him with that greatest number of visitor bouquets are which he views. The interpretive texts, probably received on the numerous vistas which have been carefully prepared by and turnouts with their interpretive facil­ the park's naturalist staff, have met a ities which help the visitor to understand hearty welcome from park visitors. and appreciate the natural features and Sections of the old Tioga Road have park values. been retained "as is" for those lovers of the old west who like to get away from

27 SOURCES OF INFORMATION

SCB—Sierra Club Bulletin 53. Ref. deleted. YNN—Yosemite Nature Notes published by Yosemite Natural 54. J.T. McLean to Wilson and Wilson, 9 April 1908. History Association, (YNHA). 55. Report of the Yosemite Park Commission, Dec. 1904. DFP—Daily Free Press, Bodie. 56. Supt. Report 1898. Supt Rept—Annual Reports of Supts and Acting Supts of Yos­ 57. Bill, 56th Congress, 2nd Sesseion, 1 March 1901. emite Nat'l Park. 58. S. 3064, 19 May 1896. All other sources are in Museum or Administrative files, Yos­ 59. Report of the Commission on Roads in Yosemite N.P., emite N.P. 8 Feb. 1900. 60. Ise, J., Our National Park Policy, 1961, Johns Hopkins 1. Muir, John, The Mountains of California, 1894, The Century Press, Baltimore. Co., N.Y. 61. Senate Report 863, 5 May 1896. 2. Fitzwater, R.J., Final Report on two seasons excavations at 62. W.L. Littebrant to Sec'y of Interior, 8 July 1913. El Portal, Mariposa County, California, 1962. 63. Anon., Old Tioga Road to be Acquired, 1911, SCB, 8:132. 3. Davis, James T., Trade Routes and Economic Exchange 64. Maj. Forsyth to Sec'y of Interior, 16 April 1912. Among the Indians of California, U. of Calif. Archaeological 65. WF. McClure to W.T. Littebrant, 15 July 1913. Survey, 1961. 66. Wilson and Wilson to Col. S.B.N. Young, 27 Oct. 1896. 4. Farquhar, F.P., Walker's Discovery of Yosemite, 1942, SCB 67. C.C. Thompson to D.E. McHenry, 6 Feb. 1954. 27(41:35-49. 68. Affidavit of W.C. Priest to Wilson and Wilson, 22 Oct. 1892. 5. Russell C.P., 100 Years in Yosemite, 1959, YNHA. 69. Wilson and Wilson to Maj. H.M. Chittenden, 24 Aug. 1904. 6. Brockman, C.F., Development of Transportation to Yosem­ 70. Allen Webster to Frank Pierce, 12 Dec. 1907. ite, Part I, 1943, 22(61:49-56. 71. Mrs. H.R. Crocker to Maj. Benson, 7 Sept. 1907. 7. Ibid. Part II, YNN, 22(71:57-63. 72. Mrs. H.R. Crocker to Maj. Benson, 28 Sept. 1907. 8. Farquhar, F.P., Lee Vining, 1928, SCB, 13(11:83-85. 73. Ibid No. 72. 9. Bunnell, L.H., Discovery of the Yosemite, 1911, G.W. 74. A.P. Dron to Mrs. Crocker, 25 Aug. 1908. Gerlicher, Los Angeles. 75. Deposition, State of Calif., Co. of San Joaquin, May Hall 9a. Interview with T.J. Hodgdon by C.P. Russell, 1927. Crocker, Jan. 1912. 10. Farquhar, F.P., Place Names of the High Sierra, 1925, SCB, 76. Biennial report Dept. of Highways, Sacramento, 1899. 12:126-247. 77. Supt. Report 1907. 11. Ms., Elmira Parker, no date. 78. Biennial report Dept. of Highways, Sacramento, 1905. 12. Brockman, C.F., Part III, YNN, 22(101:81-86. 79. Anon., Mono-Tioga Highway, 1909, SCB, 7:195. 13. Farquhar, F.P., Exploration of the Sierra Nevada, 1925, 80. Supt. Report 1910. Calif. Hist. Soc, S.F. 81. Maj. Littebrant to W.F. McClure, 2 June 1913. 14. Ms. "Trip across Yosemite in 1869," no date. 82. Maj. Littebrant to W.F. McClure, 28 June 1913. 15a. Hubbard, D.H., Ghost Mines of Yosemite, 1958, Awani 83. Sanley, J.N., Tioga Pass, 1941, Calif. Highways and Public Press, Fresno. Works, 19(71:4-7. 5a. Russell, C.P., Early Mining Excitements East of Yosemite, 84. E.R. Foley to John C. Preston, 7 Feb. 1961. 1928, SCB, 13(11:40-53. 85. Supt. Report 1913. 16. V. Gondos, Jr., to H.L. Bill, 1 Nov. 1954. 86. Ms., Townsley, F.S., "The First Automobile in Yosemite," 17. Mammoth City Herald, 3 Sept. 1879. 1 Dec. 1941. 18. Hubbard, Fran, Road to Rusting Dreams, 1955, YNN, 87. Sargent, Shirley, The Old Big Oak Flat Road, 1950, YNN, 34(71:86-91. 29(71:68-71. 19. DFP, 20 July, 1882. 88. Shankland, Robert, Sfeuen Mather of the National Parks, 20. DFP, 18 August, 1882. Copyright 1951, 1954. by Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., N.Y. 21. Ferretti, J.V., Surveying the Tioga Road 1948, YNN, 89. W.E. Colby to K.A. Trexler, 17 May 1961. 27(91:109-112. 90. J.B. Wosky to Director, NPS, 23 Jan. 1936. 22. Report of C.E. Barney, Mining Engineer for the Co., to Thos 91. Report of the General Supt. and Landscape Engineer of NPS Bennett, Jr., President, Great Sierra Consolidated Silver Co. to Sec'y of Interior, Washington, D.C., 1950. 1 Nov. 1883. 92. Supt. Report 1915. 23. Thos. Bennett, Jr., Statement B., Relating to the Great Sierra 93. Mather, S.T., National Parks - The Federal Policy, Past and properties, 15 Feb. 1890. Future, 1916, SCB, 10:97-101, 1922. 24. Ms., Celia Crocker Thompson, no date. 94. Supt. Report 1916. 25. Homer Mining Index, 23 June 1883. 95. Ms., Sovulewski Construction Reports, 1916 to 1922. 26. F.B. Morris to San Sing Wo (Sun Sun Wo) 11 Aug. 1883. 96. The California Motorist, June 1918. 27. Lord, R.F., Report to Great Sierra Co., 5 Sept. 1881. 97. Annual Report, Director of National Park Service, 1918. 28. DFP, 22 April 1882. 98. Tioga Road File, Yos. Natl Park, 1920, 1930. 29. Fresno Bee, 11 Aug. 1958. 99. Yosemite Transportation System brochure, 1923. 30. Hoke Smith to John F. Lacey, 5 March 1896. 100. W.B. Lewis to S.T. Mather, 28 June 1927. 31. Tuolumne County Deeds, Vol. 24, p. 90. 101. Hall, Ansel F., Guide to Yosemite, Yosemite, 1920. 32. Bill of Complaint, 9th Circuit Court, Northern Calif., (19127). 102. Circular Letter from W.B. Lewis, 4 June 1924. 33. Wilson and Wilson to 9th Circuit Court, (19127). 103. Supt. Report 1925. 34. Schlichtmann and Paden, Big Oak Flat Road to Yosemite, 104. W.L. Huber to C.G. Thomson, 30 Jan. 1935. 1959, YNHA. 105. Regional Director, NPS Region 4, to Director NPS 19 Nov. 35. Private Lands Survey, Y.N.P., Aug. 1931. 1958. 36. Ms., unsigned and undated. 106. Supt. Report, 1932. 37. DFP, 1 August 1878. 107. Supt. Report, 1933. 38. Uhte, R.F., Yosemite's Pioneer Cabins, 1956, YNN 35(9): 108. Supt. Report, 1928. 134-143. 109. Park Engineer to author, 1961. 39. Ibid No. 5. 110. Supt. Report, 1940. 39a. Sierra Club Bulletin, April 1973, p. 30. 111. Supt. Yosemite to Director NPS, 14 Nov. 1942. 40. DFP, 26 July 1882. 112. F.A. Kittredge to CD. Boothe, 14 June 1943. 41. Le Conte, J.N., The Soda Springs Property in the Tuolumne 113. G. Halliburton to Chief Ranger YNP, 10 Sept. 1958. Meadows, 1913, SCB, 9(11:36-39. 114. V.M. Frasier to Supt. of Parks, Washington, D.C., 12 Sept. 42. Stornoway, L., Yosemite; Where to Go and What to Do., 1948. San Francisco, 1888. 115. Travel News Bulletin No. 8, 16 May, 1947. 43. Report No. 79, Great Sierra Consolidated Silver Co., 4 Aug. 116. John C. Preston to G. Ballis, 20 July, 1954. . 1884. 117. W.L. Huber to C.L. Wirth, 4 June 1956. 44. C.E. Barney to W.C.N. Swift, 19 Oct. 1884. 118. Ms., Excerpts from Files re Tioga Road Controversy, 24 45. Homer Mining Index, 2 June 1894. Nov. 1958. 46. Anon., Wagon Trips to the Sierra, 1901, SCB, 3:210-217. 119. Statement of John C. Preston to NPS Region Four Confer­ 47. Hutchinson, J.S., Round About Mt. Dana, 1901, SCB, ence, Death Valley Nat'l M., 11 Jan. 1959. 3:319-328. 120. NPS Information Service release, 10 July 1957. 48. Supt. Report 1891. 121. Tioga Road File, Yosemite NP, 1957, 1958. 49. Supt. Report 1895. 122. Conrad L. Wirth to Pauline Dyer, 3 Oct. 1958. 50. Supt. Report 1896. 123. Statement of Director NPS before Sierra Club Officials SF, 51. Supt. Report 1897. 24 Nov. 1958. 52. Supt. Report 1905. 124. Fresno Bee, 4 Jan. 1959.

28 Cover photo: Along the Tioga Road, Yosemite Creek, circa 1925 following storm. PHOTO CREDITS: Inside cover, pages 3, 4: D. H. Hubbard, NPS; 5, 11: C. C. Thompson; 17: R. H. Anderson, NPS; 18: F. W. Frost; 22: H. M. Albright; 23: R. N. Mclntyre, NPS; 26, 27: K. A. Trexler, NPS; 12, 13: NPS; 6, 7, 9, 16, 21: unknown. YOSEMITE ASSOCIATION

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