Maps Events Restaurants Cafes Sightseeing Activities Shopping Hotels

Including Radovljica, Bohinj, Žirovnica Bled and Kranj 2015

Lake Bled Slovenia’s most magical spot Bled Film Festival inyourpocket.com Check out our four page pull out to the second annual fi lm extravagana Issue Nº10 FREE COPY Winner

Bestof Slovenia 2015

Best wellness spa in Slovenia Wellness Essense Bled

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y GU I D E S Municipalities Contents

ESSENTIAL CI T Y G U I D E S

arriving & getting around 7 Getting to and around Bled

Culture and events 8 Concerts, conferences, marathons & more

Restaurants 10 World-class dining with unbeatable views

Cafes & Nightlife 17 Coff ee, cakes and cocktails around the lake

sightseeing 18 The island, the castle and much more

sports & activities 23 Adrenaline parks to relaxing wellness Bled Film Festival 25 Pull out our special four-page feature on the 2nd annual fi lm festival

You’re never far from tradition at Lake Bled

Where to stay 29 Business suites to hostel bunks

shopping 32 Souvenirs, photography and more

Radovljica 34 This hilltop town is honestly sweet

Bohinj 37 Even more breathtaking than Bled

žirovnica 44 The home of Prešeren, Čop and Janša

kranj 46 Slovenia’s third biggest city and arguably its most underrated

postojna 48 The cave and the castle

Magical. Photo by Tomo Jeseničnik / Shutterstock Maps 50

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket April - May 2015 5 Foreword Arriving & Getting around We’re big fans of the entire length and breadth of Slov- Arriving by Plane enia here at In Your Pocket (obviously), but even we have Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport is located approximately half way to admit that there is something about Bled and the between Ljubljana and Bled, and you can expect to pay around surrounding area that will always give us goose bumps. €45 for a taxi into town. Buses are considerably cheaper (€5.40, The big blue lake, the jagged snow-capped mountains, with up to 19 connections on weekdays, but virtually none on Publisher ESSENTIAL the idyllic island and iconic church, the most dramatically weekends) although you have to transfer in Kranj. There are also Bled In Your PocketCI T Y G U I D E S located castle and the best cream cake in the country are Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia up to six direct shuttles per day (€13). You can see the full sched- dea NO HIDDEN all here, so our excitement is to be expected. Tel. +386 (0)30 316 607 ules on the airport’s website at www.lju-airport.si. The lake itself is more than enough reason to visit, but [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com CHARGES CROATIA that isn’t to say Bled is a one trick pony, oh most certainly director Niko Slavnic M.Sc., [email protected] Arriving by Bus ITALY FREE not. A short distance away is Vintgar Gorge, a stunning Buses leave every hour on the hour from the main bus sta- AUSTRIA & DELIVERY natural tourist site in it’s own right. Sweet little Radovljica ISSN 1855-6132 tion in Ljubljana and take about 80 minutes to make the jour- HUNGARY TO YOUR HOTEL is also nearby, and any town that comes with the slogan ©IQBATOR d.o.o. ney. Close to the town centre at the northeastern tip of the RENTALS ‘honestly sweet’ is a winner in our books. In this issue we Printed Florjančič tisk lake, the main bus station (glavno postajališče) has a kiosk also take a look at Kranj and Žirovnica, two towns of dras- outside selling chocolate, soft drinks and cigarettes. To get to tically diff erent size but with a link, that being Slovenia’s Editorial the city centre, walk south along Cesta Svobode until you hit favourite icon France Prešeren. Finally, tell any Slovene editor John Bills the water. Schedule and prices can be found on the offi cial that you’re visiting Lake Bled and there’s a good chance Writer John Bills, Yuri Barron, James Cosier, Will Dunn Ljubljana bus station website at www.ap-ljubljana.si. design Mateja Štruc FROM they will reply with something along the lines of ‘Bled is ◦ Manual / Automatic Photography Shutterstock, TIC Bled, Flickr, Jošt Gantar, 39€/day beautiful, but I prefer Lake Bohinj’. Turn to page 37 to fi nd TIC Radovljica, TIC Žirovnica and TIC Kranj Arriving by Train out why. Cover photo Jošt Gantar Bled has two train stations, but unfortunately neither is locat- ed in the centre of town. Over 20 trains a day from Ljubljana After the success of last year Bled Film Festival returns for Sales & Circulation call at Lesce-Bled station which is on the main line, but is tel. +386 (0)30 316 602 a second run through, and we’ve got a special four-page Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina 4km away, meaning you will either have a lengthy hike or feature dedicated to it in the centre of this guide. Bled has short bus ride into town. The other station is Bled-Jezero a a fi ne schedule of events throughout the year, so turn to Copyright notice couple kilometres to the west, which sees up to fi ve trains a Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright page nine for our coverage. day from the capital, however you have to transfer at Jesen- FROM ◦ Manual / Automatic cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication ice which can lead to a total journey time of almost 3 hours. 48€/day All this considered, it all comes back to the lake and right- may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for Check out slovenia Railways’ incredibly user-friendly website the purpose of review, without written permission from the ly so. Don’t be put off by the ever-growing number of publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket for a complete schedule and prices at www.slo-zeleznice.si. tourists, as this delight deserves every single one of them. is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Also available Grandtour As always we welcome any and all feedback, whether it Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). 2008-15. Arriving by car is via Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, good old-fashioned From Ljubljana take the A2 highway northwest out of the Maps email or launched via paper aeroplane from the top of Monolit d.o.o., Turizem Bohinj city and follow the signs for Kranj or Jesenice. From Aus- Bled Island’s steps to the bottom. tria, pass Jesenice following signs for Ljubljana. Bled is well sign-posted. The journey time is around 40 minutes from FROM About iyp Ljubljana, and it may get very crowded on Sundays in sea- 65€/day ◦ Manual / Automatic son at the end of highway. Once you’ve reached the town, Not content with publishing more there is ample parking available, but most of it must be paid between the hours of 07:00-20:00, with prices rang- than 100 guides to cities across three Also available Station Wagon ESTONIA continents, In Your Pocket is currently ing from €0.50-2 per hour or €3-10 per day. Inquiring about the various options at your hotel prior to arrival is usually a LATVIA RUSSIA carrying out a new round of expansi- good idea. For those with electric cars, there is a free charg- NORTHERN LITHUANIA on for 2015. New cities due to be pocke- IRELAND ing station on the lower level of the parking garage at Hotel IRELAND BELARUS ted include Milan in Italy and Eindho- NETHERLANDS Krim near Bled Sports Hall - the key can be collected at the POLAND ven in the Netherlands, while some old GERMANY UKRAINE hotel’s reception. FROM Manual / Automatic favourites, such as Budapest in Hunga- ◦ All prices include: unlimited mileage (max 500km/day), cdw, tp, road map, tax 22%, *free delivery up to 30 km from Kranj. BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC ry and the Russian exclave of Kalinin- 90€/day AUSTRIA HUNGARY grad will be getting a reboot. And the- SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA cAr rEntAl SLOVENIACROATIA re is a brand new digital platform to ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA IDEALRENT BULGARIA look forward to: we will rolling out the MONTENEGRO A wide range of new cars, cheap weekly and monthly Ask your agent for Navigation Sistem Garmin! FYR MACEDONIA new inyourpocket.com throughout Ap- ALBANIA ril and May. rates, and free pick-up and drop-off at many locations in GREECE slovenia (including Ljubljana centre, Brnik airport, Bled, WITH OUR FLYER GET 10% OFF ON YOUR RENTAL In order to make sure you keep up with Krajska Gora and Maribor among other places), as well as Office : +386 (0)51 308952 DUTCH [email protected] CARIBBEAN all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us arranging delivery at airports in neighbouring countries Mobile : + 386 (0)41 209 545 SOUTH AFRICA on Facebook (facebook.com/inyour- (Trieste, Venice, Klagenfurt, Zagreb and even Vienna) Fax : + 386 (04) 2323 776 www.idealRENT.si pocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter. make IdealRent one of our fi rst choices when it comes to com/inyourpocket). hiring a car. Qtel. +386 (0)41 20 95 45, info@idealrent. si, www.idealrent.si. 6 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket 2015 7 Culture and Events Culture and Events and is guaranteed to liven up the town for at least one late Annual Events August autumn weekend. In addition to music, plenty of traditional 30.07 Thursday - 02.08 Sunday food and drinks are also on hand, and the event always Okarina Ethno Music Festival attracts thousands of visitors from Austria and Germany June First held in 1991, the original line up for the then one-day - where Oberkrainer is perhaps even more popular than 06.06 Saturday - 07.06 Sunday Okarina Etno Festival contained just two artists, a group in Slovenia - as well as from Italy, Hungary and elsewhere. Medieval Days at Bled Castle made up of Slovenes and Croats and another from Czech QSports Hall Bled, Ljubljanska 5, tel. +386 (0)4 57 80 500, The origins of Bled’s thousand year history are of course Republic. By 1998 this had exploded into a festival featuring [email protected], www.bled.si. connected with its clifftop castle, the oldest in Slovenia by 26 artists from 14 different countries spanning 10 days. Back written records. The heart of the Brixen estate in Carniola, down to a more streamlined line up this year, the Okarina the castle buildings and courtyards were undoubtedly the Etno Festival is celebrating its 25th year of work. Taking December scene of much tumultuous happenings, lest we say bar- place in Bled Castle and Spa Park, it is a colourful celebra- 05.12 Saturday - 08.12 Tuesday barisms. Performances at the festival in memory of this tion of all things folk. Line up and more information can be Potica Festival period include medieval music, a market, tasting of delica- found online.Qtel. +386 (0)4 572 97 70, [email protected], Taking place over four days in December, this festival is a cies, and of course battle.Qwww.blejski-grad.si. www.festival-okarina.si. Jul 30 - Aug 2, Aug 6 - 9. celebration of all things Potica. There will be live potica baking, as well as the option of some potica purchasing 29.08 Saturday and even workshops on how to make the fine dessert. July Bled Mini Marathon and Recreational To cap it all off, the festival takes place on Bled Island and 05.07 Sunday Run (Blejski Maraton) transport to and from will be via Pletna boat. Romance Rikli’s Walk to Straža Hill Another of Bled’s many annual sport events, the Bled and pastries? We’re in.QBled Island, www.bled.si. Swiss doctor Arnold Rikli was one of the first people to recog- Marathon includes both a 21km half-marathon and a 6km nise the value and health benefits of Bled’s climate and loca- recreational run around the lake.Qwww.bled.si. Merry December in Bled tion. He developed his own healing methods based on the Christmas time in Bled is as an important time as anywhere effects of light, air and water, and went on to found the Natu- else, with events held throughout the month of December. ral Health Institute in 1855. To commemorate the good doc- September The highlights are undoubtedly the Sinking of the Bell on tor’s contributions both to health and tourism in Bled, a rec- 31.08 Monday - 01.09 Tuesday Christmas night (which is based on a centuries-old legend reational walk to Straža Hill is held every July. Entering its 17th Bled Strategic Forum involving murder, nuns, the Pope and the actual sinking of a year in 2015, the starting point is Hotel Golf at 07:00 sharp. Held each September, the Bled Strategic Forum is intended bell) and New Year’s Eve celebrations along the waterfront to promote a high-level strategic dialogue between lead- with an almost legendary fireworks display. Every weekend 11.07 Saturday ers from the private and public sectors on the key issues in December there is also a full programme of events for Night Run Around Lake Bled (Nočna 10km) facing Europe and the 21st-century world. The aim of the children and arts fair held at Hotel Park, while on Christmas As the name suggests, this unique take on the tradi- Forum is to generate new strategies capable of allowing eve and Christmas day you can catch a glimpse of Santa tional 10km race takes place after the sun goes down. Europe to better use its strategic space and leverage, and Claus himself riding around the town on a horse-drawn Participants compete in one of five age groups, and the also to attract political commitments to these strategies. In sleigh. A full programme of the month’s events can be course consists of more than two laps around lake. The addition, the forum offers a platform for cooperation be- found on the city’s official website.Qwww.bled.si. main event begins at 22:00, while a recreational 1.2km run tween the private and public sectors aimed at developing leaves at 21:00, and a 400m and 800m children’s run at common integrated approaches to resolving outstanding 20:00.Qwww.nocna10ka.net. challenges and tackling new ones.Qtel. +386 (0)1 478 21 Seviqc Brežice Festival 08, fax +386 (0)1 478 23 55, bledstrategicforum.mzz@ 14.07 Tuesday - 18.07 Saturday gov.si, www.bledstrategicforum.org. 22.06 Monday - 11.11 WEDNESDAY Bled Golden Microphone The Seviqc Brežice Festival is synonymous with ear- Organised by Studio Osminka and with financial prizes for 05.09 Saturday ly music in Slovenia and one of its most important the victors, Bled Golden Microphone is an international Bled Triathlon cultural events. Most of the distinguished invited singing competition for children, teens, youths and adults. If you feel like going for a little 1500m swim, followed by artists perform a carefully selected programme, Taking place for the second year running, you won’t see us a 40km bike ride, and topped off with a short 10km run, which shows the colourfulness of musical styles taking part but you will see a bevy of immensely talented then the Bled Triathlon was made just for you! If you’re from different European countries, from the middle vocalists over the five days of performances.Qtel. +386 not up for the rigours of the course outlined above, there ages right up to the beginning of the 20th century. (0)41 65 09 36, www.studio-osminka.com. are many other races taking place at the same time with This diverse programme is the very aim of the Se- lengths suitable for amateurs. It’s possible to register via viqc Brežice Festival, whose name comes from the 17.07 Friday - 19.07 Sunday the internet.Qtel. +386 (0)1 832 72 20, info@trisport- abbreviation of the Latin expression Semper Viva Bled Days and Bled Night klub.si, www.trisport-klub.si. Quam Creata, which means 'Always live as cre- Held on a late July weekend each year, this festival is one of ated'.Qtel. +386 (0)1 242 08 12, [email protected], the summer’s main festivals in Bled, and consists of a diverse www.seviqc-brezice.si schedule of events ranging from a daily arts and crafts fair November and children’s puppet shows to street theatre performances 14.11 Saturday and concerts. One event not to be missed is the traditional Oberkrainer Festival lighting of candles on the lake followed by a fireworks dis- This celebration of Oberkrainer music, a traditional Slovene More events online at play from the castle. See the official website for the com- folk style that is akin to the polka and waltz, will feature per- bled.inyourpocket.com plete programme.QVarious Venues, www.bled.si. formances by various internationally renowned ensembles, 8 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 9 Restaurants Restaurants gostilNa pRi plaNiNCu peNZioN MliNo Housed inside a charming traditional house dating from Known as a favourite amongst gourmands and con- 1903, one of Bled’s more well-known restaurants, Gostilna noisseurs of fine food, this place rates five stars for Pri Planincu’s Alpine ambience is no coincidence when you its menu of typical Slovene cuisine. From season to start unravelling the history of the area. With a small bar at season the four walls of the guesthouse buzz with the front and a dining area through a small passageway out a warm, lively atmosphere and even just outside the back, the traditional menu includes many local favou- the front door, the fun doesn’t stop as guests enjoy rites including Karst ham and assorted home-made sausag- wonderful views of the castle, lake activities, walks es.Qd-2, Grajska 8, tel. +386 (0)45 74 16 13/+386 (0)45 and cycling around the area.QC-4, Svobode 45, tel. 76 84 19, [email protected], www.pri-planincu.com. +386 (0)4 574 14 04, fax +386 (0)4 574 15 06, mlino@ open 09:00 - 24:00. TA6GBXS mlino.si, www.mlino.si. open 08:00 - 23:00. (high season); 08.00 - 22.00 (low season) T6UIL� gRill RestauRaNt GBKW The Grill Restaurant at the centrally located Hotel Lovec does a lot of things well. Professional service from a knowl- RestauRaNt 1906 edgable staff , and the best place to sit is outside on the Located in the stately four-star Hotel Triglav Bled large terrace where chefs will prepare your meal right in (which, you guess it, was founded in 1906), a meal front of you while you enjoy the view towards the lake. here is guaranteed to be a fine dining experience of The menu is top quality from the starters to the desserts the highest order. The kitchen team create some sim- and every other course in between, and many of the in- ply wonderful dishes, all of which are modern inter- gredients are bought from small-scale local farmers - or pretations of traditional Slovene recipes, methods and fi shermen in the case of the freshly caught trout from the ingredients. In 2011, the restaurant, and its culinary nearby Sava Bohinjka river. Local dishes from local ingre- school, were awarded the prestigious Jakob Prize, giv- dients always get a thumbs up from us, and the seasonal en each year at Slovenia’s largest tourism fair to only off ers also strike a positive chord. A children’s menu is one winner.QKolodvorska 33, tel. +386 (0)4 575 26 also available.QLjubljanska 6, tel. +386 (0)4 620 41 26, 10/+386 (0)31 30 00 97, info@hoteltriglavbled. [email protected], www.grill-bled.com. si, www.hoteltriglavbled.si. open 00:00 - 24:00. open 10:00 - 23:00. PJALB PAW Bled is full of many spots where the view will rival the cuisine at lunchtime. Photo by Dave Gratton / Flickr Long famous for its legendary cream cakes, in recent years you are right to expect.QCesta Gorenjskega odreda 16, tel. Bled’s culinary scene has really begun to fl ourish, with +386 (0)8 389 92 21, [email protected], some of the country’s top chefs plying their trade at vari- www.gardenvillagebled.com. 12:00 - 16:00 snacks, 18:00 - ous venues in and near the town. For those who are simply 22:00 a la carte dinners. Sat & Sun 12:00 - 16:00. looking to for a decent meal rather than the full on four- RESTAURANT star gourmet experience, Bled also off ers plenty of choices, gostilNa MuRka from hearty regional cuisine served in family-run ‘gostilna’ A typical Slovenian gostilna, or rather Gorenjska gostilna, Penzion Mlino to Chinese, Mexican and various takeaway options. the sausage and sauerkraut being fi ne choices here, as well as other Slovene and also pasta dishes, all served in TYPICAL SLOVENE DISHES, FISH, GAME, massive portions. Murka is mainly popular with locals, so GRILL, HOUSE SPECIALITIES, slovEniAn it’s the perfect place to make that extra eff ort with a few Bled Castle RestauRaNt phrases in the Slovene language. The covered outdoor AND MUCH MORE. Under new management as of early 2015, the restaurant at seating of the terrace is a nice place to dine, out of the hot Bled Castle is every bit as glorious as it should be. The diverse sun or indeed a summer shower. Extra off erings at Murka LARGE QUALITY TRADITION tastes of Slovenia are all on the menu, tradition given a slightly include schnapps and wine tastings, and medieval meals. TERRACE modern twist as it were. As good as the food is (and believe Qriklijeva 9, tel. +386 (0)45 74 33 40/+386 (0)41 24 59 T: +386 (0)4 574 14 04 us, it’s great), the real reason to eat here is the views. The Alps, 18, [email protected], www.gostilna-murka. E: [email protected] the lake, what more could you want?QGrajska Cesta, tel. com. open 10:00-22:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 12:00- +386 (0)4 620 34 44/+386 (0)1 361 94 16, sales@jezersek. 23:00. JALEB www.mlino.si si, www.jezersek.si. open 11:00 - 22:00. PALB paNoRaMa gaRdeN village RestauRaNt Along the shores of Lake Bled, you can enjoy a fi ne selec- We’ve made no secret in the past about our love of the Gar- tion of Slovene cuisine and steaks, as well as a killer wine den Village resort in Bled, so it will come as no surprise that and dessert list, complete with wonderful service of course. we’re fully in love with the restaurant as well. Near to the pond Off ering one of the most pristine views of any restaurant in we fi nd grassy table tops as the most romantic of streams Bled, Panorama defi nitely lives up to its name.Qd-3, Cesta slides through the dining area, making for the sort of location Svobode 12, tel. +386 (0)4 579 12 75, fax +386 (0)4 574 we dreamt of before we ever began to travel. The food? Fresh 18 41, [email protected], www.sava-hotels- DOBRODOŠLI | WELCOME | WILLKOMMEN | BENVENUTI from the garden to your plate, you’ll receive the goodness resorts.com. open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 10 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 11 Restaurants Restaurants Zaka julijaNa Situated at a quiet corner of the lake, a 15-minute walk intErnAtionAl Exclusive gastronomy, an exclusive location and an ex- We don’t camp ... from the main tourist centre, Zaka is actually a retreat, CHilli clusive ambience - exclusive tends to be a word that ... we glamp. but remains convenient, being close to the Bled- Just like the owner will tell you: ‘we just want to make best describes Julijana Restaurant. The views of the Jezero train station (up to five trains a day from Lju- our customers happy’. This restaurant looks like it origi- lake and the castle are enchanting, and the gourmet bljana). In addition to accommodation, a conference nally wanted to sell Mexican food and then realized that it delicacies on offer are sure to impress . The restaurant hall, tennis courts and the rowing centre; good grilled wouldn’t make everyone happy, so decided to off er more. can only accommodate some 20 people, which gives dishes including fresh fish can also be enjoyed in the Even though it’s the only restaurant that off ers Mexican food it a uniquely intimate character.. but also means get- restaurant or on its terrace overlooking the lake. High in Bled, you can still get Italian and international dishes. Hav- ting in can be tough. As you’d expect Julijana Restau- quality food and an abundance of it.QŽupančičeva ing been a professional athlete, the owner travelled exten- rant regularly attracts celebrities and other important 9, tel. +386 (0)4 574 17 09, [email protected], sively and is now obsessed with having the same customer guests, such as Donald Trump, Prince Charles and Mat- www.bled-zaka.com. open 00:00 - 24:00. ZH� service he has seen around the world, and it shows.Qd-2, thew Perry, as well as a number of other presidents BKW Svobode 9, tel. +386 (0)45 74 30 27, restavracijachilli@ and royal family members.Qd-3, Cesta Svobode 12, yahoo.com. open 11:00 - 01:00. AUGB tel. +386 (0)45 79 10 00, [email protected], Experience a true fairytale in Garden Village

vila ajda www.sava-hotels-resorts.com. open 18:00 - 23:00. Bled, one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Come here if you want to try local specialities in a ro- vila pRešeReN PTALGBX mantic atmosphere! This typical alpine house offers Checking out the area’s popular tourist spots doesn’t get favourable views of the lake, traditional Slovene food any easier than this. The large scenic terrace of the villa’s laBod with a little creativity, dishes for diabetics and vegetar- café and restaurant puts you inches from the lake, where At the top of the hill leading from the bus station down Restaurant ians, and the possibility of accommodation. There are you can you take in all of Bled’s major attractions in one easy to the lake itself, Labod off ers plenty of space and plenty several spacious, fully equipped apartments on offer in view, while sipping your cappuccino in hand. They also fea- of choice. Mains start at €10 and feature the usual special- addition to the two floors of restaurant space seating ture a full bistro-style menu of continental and regional fare, ties: meat, fi sh and pasta dishes. It also has a Pokemon SLOVENIAN CUISINE - From Garden to Plate up to 80 diners. The summer patio hosts another 80. and from dessert you’ll fi nd a range of Bled’s famous creamy Plate for the kids. A daily tourist menu of three courses QCesta Svobode 27, tel. +386 (0)4 576 83 20, info@ cakes.Qd-2, Veslaška Promenada 14, tel. +386 (0)45 75 for only €12 is also available, featuring excellent soups, a Slovenian Culinary Adventure. vila-ajda.si , www.vila-ajda.si open 10:00-22:00. 25 10, fax +386 (0)45 75 25 19, [email protected], main dish and a dessert. The pancakes in particular are ex- Local products enhanced and JLBKW www.vilapreseren.si. open Mon-thur 07:00-24:00, Fri- cellent. It also has plenty of outdoor seating looking over Sun 07:00-01:00. PTA6GBXSW the lake.Qd-2, Cesta Svobode 8a, tel. +386 (0)4 579 84 prepared by our Chef Dušan in a 53, [email protected], www.restavracijalabod. special garden ambience. si. open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6.60-20). PT� JAULEBKSW

okaRiNa Slovenes are still slowly but surely discovering Indian food, and when the penny drops the Okarina Res- taurant in Bled will be at forefront. The classic Indian dishes are represented, from samosas to pakori to a selection of curries. With a vast menu covering ev- erything from sophisticated fare through to Balkan grilled meat and the aforementioned Indian selec- tion, the hardest part really comes down to choosing what to eat. The great selection available to vegetar- ians makes Okarina a most excellent group option in Bled.Qd-3, Ljubljanska 8, tel. +386 (0)45 74 14 58, [email protected], www.okarina.com. open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. (€8-30). TA6GBXSW

gRajska plaža Sat beneath the castle with glorious views of everything Bled has to off er, Grajska Plaža (Castle Beach) is undoubt- edly one of Bled’s most energetic spots. An excellent The restaurant is open from 12:00 to 22:00. menu of tasty dishes is found, covering everything from Dinners from 18:00 onwards. light lunches to Mediterranean and local specialties and much in between, with plenty on off er for vegetarians as T: +386 (0) 838 99 221 well. The beach is also a fi ne place to head if you want to sit E: [email protected] with a beverage and admire the views.QVeslaška prom- Cesta Gorenjskega odreda 16, Bled enada 11, tel. +386 (0)31 81 38 86, info@grajska-plaza. com, www.grajska-plaza.com. open 09:00 - 23:00. www.gardenvillagebled.com ABK

12 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 13 Restaurants Restaurants Restaurant Camping Bled Rikli Bistro Don’t be put off by the name - yes, this may be the restau- In the bustling heart of Bled, on the waterfront beneath rant of Bled’s largest campsite, but it also has some of the Hotel Park, you can find the friendly Rikli Bistro. In fine best views of anywhere on the lake. Also known as Zaka, weather, you may prefer to enjoy your meal with a view it’s located at the far west end of Bled (on the small bay from the outdoor terrace. The food is prepared with the just before the road leaves the lakeside), with the lake’s freshest ingredients, and the bistro also offers a wide famous island church just off the shore and the castle in selection of salads, pasta with various sauces and some the distance. The food is reasonably priced and comes in delectable desserts.QD-2/3, Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)4 large hearty portions to satisfy demands of hungry camp- 579 18 39, [email protected], www.sava-hotels- ers. Try one of the special dishes, such as Granny’s mush- resorts.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. PJAULG� room soup, roast beef Pokljuka-style or the Camping Bled BKW plate for two.QKidričeva 10b, tel. +386 (0)4 574 17 12, [email protected], www.restaurant-zaka.si. Pizzeria Gallus TLEB Sure, you can come because of the view, which is beauti- ful. You might also come to enjoy the pizza, which is deli- Park cious and comes from a wood-fired oven. But the reason On the shore of lake with a huge terrace perfect for lazily why we enjoy coming here the most is the lively service. watching the day go by, Park Restaurant is the birthplace Not only will you enjoy their traditional Tuscan food, but of the original Bled cream cake, so where better to pick you will also be entertained by the waiters who will serve one up? The interior is all calming lavender and golden you kindly and take great pride in the restaurant’s food. swans, but views like the ones from the terrace aren’t to QD-3 Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)45 74 32 99, www.piz- be avoided. The summer months also see live music on zeriagallus.si, Open 11:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. frequent occasion, adding more layers of charm to an al- PJTALVB ready charming venue.QD-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)4 579 16 00, [email protected], www. hotel-park-bled.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Farmhouses Povšin Grill Babji Zob You are truly a guest in a Slovenian tourist farmhouse The unmistakable waft of grilled Balkan meat is always (turistična kmetija), thus this is neither a restaurant nor a positive in our book, and if your čevapčiči cravings get a bone fide hotel. What you will find is delicious home- the better of you whilst in Bled then Babji Zob is the place made food and drink, from meats to cheeses, to eggs to head. Just a short walk uphill from the lake itself, Babji and vegetables, dumplings and cakes - and of course Zob also does a fine line in baklava, like any self-respecting brandy. The house is traditional, with its black kitchen Balkan-infused restaurant should.QCesta svobode 8, tel. (črna kuhinja) intact, and after meeting the family (in- +386 (0)8 381 05 84, grillbabjizob.si/. Open 11:00 - 23:00. cluding the pets) there are many sights nearby to ex- plore on foot or bike (lake Bled, the castle, gorge etc). QSelo 22, tel./fax +386 (0)4 576 76 30, povsin@siol. Pizza net, www.povsin-bled.com. Pizzeria Briksen Owned by Slovene ice hockey player Tomaž Razingar, it seems only natural that this incredibly popular pizzeria is located in Around Bled Bled’s sports hall, whose main function is as an arena for hockey Dvor Jezeršek and other ice-based sports. In addition to the oversized pizzas, Generally when a restaurant is awarded a title such as the menu features various burgers, fries, kebabs, sandwiches, ‘Taste Slovenia - Culinary Centre’, you can be sure that sausages and even a full English breakfast, which are balanced what you will find within will tickle each and every out with some slightly healthier looking salads.QLjubljan- taste bud, and this is for sure true with Dvor Jezeršek. ska 5, tel. +386 (0)40 65 29 95, www.pizzerijabriksen.com. A Slovenian’s Slovenian restaurant in the little village of Open 08:00 - 00:00. PYALVBW Cerkle na Gorenjskem just 2km from Ljubljana airport, it has taken the culinary traditions of the country, sprin- Pizzeria Rustika kled a little modern seasoning and created something Located between the winding streets behind St Martin’s excellent. QZgornji Brnik 63, tel. +386 (0)4 252 94 Church, Pizzeria Rustika is cosy pizza place that deserves the 10, [email protected], www.jezersek.si. Open 12:00- adjective rustic more than most. A fine selection of pizzas, 22:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. burgers, sandwiches, and salads is on offer as well as various house specialties. Rustika also offers home delivery until 22:00, although we recommend visiting the restaurant itself for some of the best pizza in Bled.QD-2, Riklijeva 13, tel. +386 (0)45 More restaurants online at 76 89 00, [email protected], www.pizzeria-rustika. bled.inyourpocket.com com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. TAVGBK 14 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 15 Restaurants Cafes & Nightlife tAstE gorEnJskA caFeS clubs KAVARNA jasMiN kult kluB PARK Another in the fine regional taste series produced Jolly good kremšnita and a pot of tea for shirt buttons in- The almost waterfront terrace (just across the street CAFE by the Slovene tourist board, Taste Gorenjska fo- side a modern albeit basic café next to the tourist offi ce. from the lake) is the place to be during summer nights cuses on the various flavours, tastes and foods that The tea in question comes in lots of diff erent varieties and in Bled. The views are great, there’s usually a nice cool the Gorenjska region is known for. Bled and the is served in dainty little pots. An ideal place to bring your breeze coming off the water, and live concerts of vary- surrounding area is known for the rich diversity of aged aunt.Qd-3, Svobode 10, tel. +386 (0)45 74 38 27, ing genres and styles are held quite frequently. Don’t its nature, whether it is the mountain pastures that [email protected], www.jasmin-caji.si. open let the name intimidate you either, you won’t feel out of act as home to grazing cattle, sheep and goats, the 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00. PAUGBX place here if you forgot to pack your black leather jeans arable land filled with buckwheat, barley and mil- and/or have a noticeable lack of tattoos. It is however lo- let or the alpine rivers and their abundance of fresh paRk RestauRaNt & CaFé cated on the ground fl oor of the Bled Shopping Centre. fish, everywhere you look fresh culinary goodness is Sitting opposite the Park hotel and restaurant, on the banks QLjubljanska 4, [email protected], www. waiting to be discovered. of the lake is the result of the legend that is Bled cream cake, kultbled.si. open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. or ‘Blejska Kremna Rezina’ in Slovene (see boxed text). The YAEB The brochure focuses on the many traditional large open plan kitchen has to work damn hard to keep dishes served throughout the region, and we’ve up with demand on busy Sunday afternoons and they do picked out a small handful of our favourites for it with grace and ease. An absolute must!QCesta Svo- winE The only original cream the towns covered in this guide. Whilst it isn’t bode 15, tel. +386 (0)45 79 18 18, kavarna@hotelibled. viNoteka viNaRte usually recommended to start with dessert, if com, www.sava-hotels-resorts.com. open 09:00 - 21:00. All the classic wine-cellar elements are elegantly pre- cake in Bled ... we’re talking food and Bled we’ve got to go for PJAULB sented in this chic wine bar. It’s got the stone walls and Taste it in Park cafe with hazelnut Potica with Figs from Bled Island. ceilings, the heavy wooden tables and a snazzy selec- Heading over to Bohinj we recommend the Flint slaščičaRNa šMoN tion of more than 300 local Slovene wines. It’s a classy beautiful lake view Corn Žganci, a typical form of the polenta-type A heralded local pastry shop since 1880, Slaščičarna Šmon start for some wine-tasting evenings with friends, fam- dish we find across Slovenia. When in Radovljica is still the place to go for sweets when in Bled. It off ers a ily or business associates. Why not begin with a glass Today, cream cakes are made in give the Linhart Cukr a try, which is the house wide range of freshly made pastries and desserts, as well as of Cviček, a local favourite, or some excellent aromatic numerous Slovenian patisseries, dessert of the Lectar Inn and is named after the some delicious homemade ice cream. As with many places reds: like the Merlot or Refošk.Qd-3, Svobode 12, tel. poet, historian and playwright who the town in Bled, the Kremna Rezina (Slovene Cream Cake) is the main +386 (0)4 579 13 32, [email protected], www. but the original recipe is used only at the square is named after, Anton Linhart. Kranj might event. When this is added to a gorgeous coff ee and a seat sava-hotels-resorts.com. open thur-Sun 17:00-19:00. Park cafe patisserie. be more frequently associated with its sausage, outside in the sun, yet another slice of perfection is created PJAUL Original Bled Cream Cakes are made but Kranjski Štrukelj shouldn’t be overlooked. in this most idyllic of places.Qd-2, Grajska 3, tel. +386 (0)4 fresh every day. With a recipe first published in 1868, these little 574 16 16, [email protected], smon.si. open 07:30 - 21:00. rolled pancakes were one of the earliest dishes in TJAULGBK blED crEAm cAkE Europe to be characterised by geography. Finally we head to Žirovnica, and being the intrepid (krEmšnitA) guide writers we are then we’ve got to go for the bArs & pubs guts. Pork intestine with Milled Groats. The fat- aRt CaFé Cream cakes, known in Bled for decades, are in fact ty section is the finest (obviously), and they say A popular social hangout for the younger clientele, especially the town’s symbol. Although you can buy them else- it tastes better when the sun shines. Dober tek! students from the nearby IEDC Bled School of Management where, those from Bled are simply the best. Ištvan who like to stop by and mingle amongst themselves. When Lukačevič, the former manager of Hotel Park patis- there’s an important sports event on TV, the place fi lls up serie, tested recipes for many years before he fi nally fast and so do the glasses! The wide, open terrace that over- succeeded. His cream cakes, which are prepared at this looks the lake also brings a steady fl ow of tourists, while the patisserie and sold in the café opposite the hotel, are gold-framed art work and old spiral staircase adds a touch of famous. What is the secret? charm to its homey interior. Qd-2, Cesta Svobode 7a, tel. In fact, there is no secret - only experience matters, +386 (0)45 76 71 79, [email protected]. open 07:00 - and the cooks from Bled have plenty of that. Since 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. 1953 they have been serving up ‘Kremšnita’ here, Oc- PJA6ILGBXW tober 2013 seeing the 12 millionth slice unveiled in a whirl of glory at the annual carnival in its honour. puB loveC Let us tempt you with the recipe: a golden crispy crust Growing up as we did in the middle of Britain, we’re fond of made from butter dough (mixed with butter, not mar- pubs. It comes as no surprise that we’re fond of Pub Lovec garine), a delicious vanilla cream of exactly the right in that case, although this has little to do with our upbring- consistency (with exactly the right amount of fl our - if ing and more to do with what it is on off er here. Local beers, there is too much the cakes are no good, if too little, House of the Original Bled Cream Cake wines and spirits interspersed with international equivalents, they collapse after cutting), topped with whipped Kavarna Park, Cesta svobode 15, 4260 Bled, SLO tasting platters at excellent prices, pub snacks and even a cream and a crispy layer of butter dough and fi nally, T: +386 (0)4 579 18 18, E: [email protected] drink of the month. Qd-3, Ljubljanska 6, tel. +386 (0)4 620 last but not least, a good dusting of icing sugar. You 41 28, [email protected], www.publovec- see? Your mouth is watering already. bled.com/. open 18:00 - 23:00. PTA6LGBX 16 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 17 oglas 60x185 inyour pocket 14_04.indd 1 07/05/15 17:02 Sightseeing Sightseeing One day in Bled

The best place to start without doubt is the new Triglav but for those willing to spend a little bit more money Rose Information Centre (Infocenter Triglavska roža we’d suggest making the most of the bicycles and eat- Bled). As the name would suggest this is the place to ing at the Garden Village Restaurant. head for information regarding the town, the lake and After lunch, the bike is the perfect mode of transport to the surroundings (other than this very guide of course). head away from the heady, fast-paced (we’re not being se- The permanent exhibition ‘Paradise at the Foot of rious) atmosphere of the lake and to see our favourite site Triglav’ is as must-see as exhibitions get, a veritable rab- outside. Just 6km away, Blejski Vintgar (Vintgar Gorge) bit-hole of beauty and science. It’ll be very easy to lose is one of the most spectacular sights in the entire country. track of time whilst here, so be careful. Pick yourself up Formed during the last ice age, the gorge is full of rocky a coffee from the lovely little café inside before heading crags and water, and is another must-see to add to the list. towards the main attractions. After a breathtaking stop here, find yourself some breath to We all know what we’re here to see, and luckily the magi- head back towards the lake. cal Lake Bled is just a short 10minute walk from the info The day is getting a little long so the rest of the day should centre. Once you’ve taken a moment to appreciate the be spent relaxing, and where better to do so than Slove- glorious scene in front of you, it’s time to start the leisurely nia’s oldest castle? Bled Castle is everything we wanted a stroll around the lake. By stroll we obviously mean cycle, castle to be when we were young, sat dramatically above so rent some bikes and hit the saddle. You’ll need to build a stunning lake with jagged snow-capped mountains up some energy for the cycle, so be sure to get yourself providing the most incredible of backdrops. The best some Bled Cream Cake, or Kremšnita, The cakes at Hotel views of the lake are truly found here so let them soak into Park are particularly delicious. Head back out onto the every pore of your being. The castle is essentially an exhi- We’re close to running out of superlatives for Lake Bled. Photo by Jošt Gantar bike, and slowly trundle around the lake. Be sure to stop bition centre these days, so allow yourself the space and and take photos of the island from every possible angle. time to take it all in. Much more than just the iconic castle and island, Bled and Iglica Waterfal Bled Island is our next stop, and the best way to get out The sun is setting and its time for dinner, so where bet- the surrounding mountains offer a multitude to see and do. One of the jewels of Bled’s surrounding nature, Iglica wa- there is the romantic route, via a traditional Pletna Boat. ter than the Bled Castle Restaurant? As mentioned, the Visit the helpful tourist office for more detailed information terfall is a 25m plume of water that plunges down a lime- Once on the island, offer to carry the lady of your affec- views from up here just can’t be bettered, and you’ll be on what is available during your stay. stone rock face, many of which nearby serve as climbing tions up the 99 steps. If you managed this, your marriage forgiven for letting your food go cold as you gawp at the walls. Here on the Suha stream, the fall is best admired in will be blissfully happy. If you don’t, you might have to beauty in front of you. Try not to do this, as the cuisine is spring, a wooden stairway allowing access to the great work hard to fix this mess. The Church of the Assumption special in its own right. Essential Bled surrounding views on the clifftop. Signposted from the is the most recognisable symbol of the island and if you Day may have ended but the night is but young as they Bled Castle village of Bohinjska Bela, south east of Bled lake by the ring the bell three times you’ll get some luck, if you be- say, and luckily you don’t have to travel far for some excel- The oldest castle in Slovenia as well as the one with argu- road to Bohinj.QBohinjska Bela. lieve in that kind of stuff. Also be sure to climb the Bell lent drinks. Grajska Plaža (Castle Beach) is found directly ably the most dramatic location, Bled Castle is yet another Tower and try some delicious Potica in the café before underneath the castle, and provides an excellent starting iconic feature of this glorious destination. Perched protec- Lake Bled heading back to shore. point for the evenings festivities. Head to Pub Lovec after- tively some 120m above the lake, the first written mention Bled’s most famous feature is the crystal-clear lake which has Despite the desserts, the cycling, climbing and wife car- wards, for some of the finest beer in the country. of it dates all the way back to 1011, when the German King an island crowned by the 55-metre tower of the Baroque rying should have brought you to an appetite by now, There we have it! The best that Bled has to offer in one sin- Henry II ceded it to the Bishops of Brixen. It has seen many Church of the Assumption. The backdrop of mountains makes so this would be the perfect time to stop for lunch. The gle day, via the energy-efficient mode of bicycle. What are changes of ownership since, and has thus become some- this view especially irresistible. Visitors can take a boat tour to north-side of the lake has a number of interesting stops, you waiting for? thing of a huge mish-mash of architectural styles. The the island (€12) on characteristic pletna boats, which include walls are Romanesque, where as the majority of the other half an hour to wander around or visit the church. Boats leave buildings making up the castle hail from the Renaissance. from the Health Park, at Hotel Park and at the rowing centre. The grounds are made up of two courtyards, connected by a staircase. Aside from the predictably gob smacking views on offer, Natural Attractions the castle also has a number of attractions to entice longer Blejski Vintgar (Vintgar Gorge) visitors, among them a small museum showing the history One of the most spectacular natural sights in Slovenia is of Bled from the beginning of time to the present day, a hidden away just north of Gorje and only 4km from Bled. wine cellar, an old printing press, a castle forge, souvenir The Vintgar Gorge, known locally as Soteska Vintgar or shop and a restaurant. The castle is reached via a fairly Blejski Vintgar, was created during the last ice age when steep 15-minute climb. Forming the most dramatic of glacial movements forced the crystalline waters of the Ra- backdrops to the life affirming romance of the lake, Bled dovna river to the northeast, where it was able to slowly Castle is a must-visit.QC-2, tel. +386 (0)4 572 97 82, fax cut its way through the limestone terrain, creating sheer +386 (0)4 572 97 72, [email protected], www. canyon walls reaching heights of up to 100m. blejski-grad.si. Open 08:00-21:00 Jun-Aug, 08:00-20:00 Only officially discovered in 1891, the gorge’s natural beauty Apr-Jun & Sep-Nov, 08:00-18:00 Nov-Mar. Admission was immediately recognised and work commenced on the Bled Castle is just one of many wonderful sights you can see in one Pick up your lady, stroll up the steps and romance is guaranteed. €9/7/4.50 for adults/students/children, with discounts construction of a wooden walkway along its 1.6km length, day at Bled. Photo by Bas Lammers Probably. Photo by Michele Alfieri / ShutterstockGantar for groups of 10 or more. opening to the public only two years later on 26 August 1893. 18 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 19 Sightseeing Sightseeing Churches Tours & Tourist St Martin’s Church A white neo-Gothic beauty erected in 1905, St Mar- Information tin’s was designed by same architect who was re- sponsible for Vienna’s town hall, and it shows in the Infocenter Triglavska Roža Bled sheer verticality of the building. The church is sur- A modern multipurpose building, the information rounded by the walls which had to protect the earlier centre opened in 2014 and is a hugely informative church from Ottoman incursions, and the interior has first stop for new visitors to the region. The per- frescoes from the late 1930s.QRiklijeva 26, www. manent exhibition ‘Paradise at the Foot of Triglav’ zupnija-bled.si. shows off everything the region has to offer, and the promo film ‘Land Under Triglav’ is particularly stunning. The helpful staff can help organise tours Museums & Galleries of the stunning scenery and activities available in Gallery 14 Gorenjska. The multimedia hall also hosts regular A superb gallery space for Bled, from the Studio Černe events and workshops, a shop selling traditional outfit in Ljubljana. With exhibition activities in contem- art and craft products and a café. Free WiFi can be Boats and water go together like magnet and steel, what better way to enjoy the lake? porary art and sculpture, plus high quality artistic equip- found throughout the building.QLjubljanska cesta ment and materials, it’s a welcome addition to the cultural 27, tel. +386 (0)4 578 02 05, [email protected], The walkway has been renovated several times over the past or rain by its colourful awning. The Pletna piers are located scene in town. The house in which the gallery resides, www.tnp.si. 16 Apr - 15 Oct 08:00 - 18:00. 16 Oct century, but still looks very much the way it did when it first under Spa Park, the Park Hotel Bled café in Mlino and in on Prešernova Cesta, bequeaths the heritage of one es- - 15 Apr 08:00 - 16:00. opened. Nowadays it leads awe-inspired visitors past rap- Velika Zaka.Qtel. +386 (0)41 427 155, tdbled@telemach. pecially well known Černe, namely Josef, an ancestor of ids, pools and overgrown rocky crags to the 16m-high Šum net, www.td-bled.si. Open Nov - Mar 08:00-18:00, Sun the modern gallery owning family whose saddle-making Pletna Tours waterfall at the gorgećs furthest end, which is said to be the & holidays 08:00-13:00; April - June & Sept - Oct 08:00- was known all the way to Vienna. There are two spaces In our humble opinion there is no better way than to highest fluvial waterfall in all of Slovenia. The short but breath- 19:00, Sun & holidays 11:00-17:00; Jul - Aug 08:00-21:00, here, 30m2 each, with temporary and permanent exhi- get to Bled Island than via the traditional Pletna boat. taking trek is definitely a must-do for anyone who visits the Sun & holidays 10:00-18:00. Tickets €12. bitions of a diverse range of Slovene and foreign artists’ The vessel most associated with the lake and island, region!Qwww.vintgar.si. Open April - October 08:00-19:00. works.QPrešernova 14, tel. +386 (0)4 574 34 63, info@ its origins go back to the 1590s. A flat-bottom wood- Educational Beehouse studiocerne.si, www.studiocerne.si. Open , Thu, Fri en boat with a pointed bow and widened stern, it Get a taste for good healthy Slovenian honey whilst in Bled, 15:00 - 19:00, Sat 09.00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. can transport as many as 20 people from shore to Symbols of Bled but not before you’ve earned it! By taking a one to two hour island at one time. It also offers it name to a group Fijaker Coachmen tour, you will see about 50 bee families at work (providing you providing tours of the region. For €65 you get a three Proud of their tradition, the Bled coachmen offer their ser- come in season), admire the traditional hand-painted bee- Escape Rooms hour guided tour of the town and the lake, (plus vices of horse drawn carriage transport every day of the hive panels, and learn and observe the life of the diligently Escape Room Enigmarium €12 transport costs to the island via a Pletna boat of year. Treat your loved one to a ride, be it rain or shine, their renowned Carniolan bee. Only then can you taste and buy A derelict house in the centre of Bled was once home to course). Also on offer are guided tours of Bled and special umbrellas will stave off the elements should the lat- the produced golden stuff. Beehive panel painting work- a particularly useless witch who managed to mangle a nearby Bohinj, for €120. Head to the website for more ter threaten to dampen one’s spirits. Tradition can be seen shops take place under a typical Slovene kozolec (hayrack), spell so badly (a spell to make cows fly no less) that she information.Qtel. +386 (0)41 94 81 68, pletna@siol. most of all in the Fijaker uniform, complete with a jacket and children can delight in natural science days. Beekeeper ended up locked inside. The latest escape room from net, www.pletna.si. adorned of ruby red Gorenjska carnations, their top hats Blaž Ambrožič will be your guide, with up to 20-30 visitors the Enigmarium team, you and your teammates will be bouncing along as they whisk you almost anywhere in Bled hosted at any one time. Located just south of Bled, in the vil- tasked with helping this poor old fool get out, as well as pr1mo Tours lake’s vicinity or further afield, and even wait for a romantic lage of Selo pri Bledu.QSelo pri Bledu, tel. +386 (0)41 65 71 saving your own bacon in the process. Another excel- There’s certainly no shortage of tour providers drink or meal to be enjoyed, to then take you back. Turn up 20/+386 (0)41 22 74 07, www.kralov-med.si. lent addition to the growing number of escape rooms throughout Slovenia, but pr1mo tours (based in at their station in front of Festival Hall (Festivalna dvorana) in Slovenia. QCankarjeva 4, tel +386 (0)31 33 44 88, Bled) still manage to stick out from the pack. The in the summer months to find them waiting, in winter but www.escape-room-bled.si first (and biggest) provider of eBikes in the country, their sign and contact details, on which you can also buy a Exhibition pr1mo tours offer tours, activities, eBike rental, trans- gift voucher for the said loved one.Qtel. +386 (0)41 69 34 Lockless Escape Room fers, team building and more with emphasis on qual- 41/+386 (0)31 31 68 02, www.fijaker-bled.si. Paradise at the Foot of Triglav The first escape room to open in Bled, Lockless Escape ity over quantity. The range of activities is astound- A permanent exhibition in the new Triglav Information Room still somehow manages to inject some freshness ing, from seeing the Julian Alps via helicopter, the Pletna Boats Centre in Bled, ‘Paradise at the Foot of Triglav’ is a fairly to the form. The Hotel of Mysteries is the setting, and incredible and unique Black Hole Experience, 1000 There’s a local saying, whereby one hasn’t really visited ambitious title that isn’t far from conveying the truth of some strange things are going on. You and your team Springs Route and more (including a week long Four Bled without taking a ride in one of its traditional Pletna what is on offer. It’s difficult to properly decide where will have to work together to navigate the various pit- Corners of Slovenia package).QLjubljanska 1, tel. boats. Thought to have perhaps derived from the German to start, as the sheer amount of information on offer is falls inside, and a sprinkling of ingenuity may also be +386 (0)41 74 63 97, [email protected], www. ‘plateboot’, meaning flat bottomed boat, the Pletna has almost overwhelming, not to mention the aesthetically required. You may feel some curiosity, intrigue, maybe pr1motours.com. a history stretching back to the end of the 16th century. pleasing manner in which it is presented. Needless to even a little fear, but we can guarantee you’ll feel excited Since then the respected profession of oarsman has been say, if there was anything you ever wanted to know at throughout. With a second room based on the magical TIC Bled handed down through generations, with a special tech- Triglav and the area, your question will be answered at sights of Bled coming soon, you won’t find many bet- QD-3, Cesta svobode 10, tel. +386 (0)4574 11 22, nique of standing rowing mastered by only a few. So board this exhibition.QLjubljanska cesta 27, tel. +386 (0)4 ter activities in town. Even if you can’t escape, the views fax +386 (0)4574 15 55, [email protected], the wooden vessel at its widened stern, its pointed bow 578 02 05, [email protected], www.tnp.si. 16 Apr - are pretty magical! QPot na Lisice 4, tel. +386 (0)31 25 www.bled.si. Open 15 Apr - 15 Oct 08:00 - 16:00, aimed at the other side of the turquoise waters, or squarely 15 Oct 08:00 - 18:00, 16 Oct - 15 Apr 08:00 - 16:00. 92 10, [email protected], lockless.si. Open 13:30 - 21:00, 16 Oct - 14 Apr at the island, and be carried across, protected from the sun Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. 20 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 21 Sightseeing SportsRestaurants & Activities Bled Island

Of the many aesthetic wonders of Lake Bled, it is Bled Is- up entirely to the imagination of the person baking it. Ev- land (Blejski Otok) that is without doubt the most iconic. erything from hazelnut to chocolate to even sausage and It adorns the cover of this and pretty much every other fish, there really are no limits to what can be put inside. guide dedicated to Bled, and a large chunk of guides for The variety doesn’t end there, as it can be eaten hot or the entire country, and with good reason. It is the only cold, with cutlery or (obviously the best option) with your true island in the entire country after all. It certainly isn’t hands. Baking demonstrations and packages are available huge, but the phrase ‘small but perfectly formed’ has in the café on Bled Island. Email ahead to organize.QBled never felt more apt. It is only accessible by boat, but we Island, tel. +386 (0)4 576 79 01, [email protected], truly can’t think of any mode of transport we’d rather use www.blejskiotok.si. Open 09:00-16:00 (Nov-Mar), to reach it. 09:00-18:00 (Apr & Oct), 09:00-19:00 (May-Sept). The Church of the Mother of the God on the Lake (mouthy name, but rather poetic in Slovene) dominates Sales Gallery & Café the landscape, both visually and culturally. First men- You didn’t think Bled Island would go without a souvenir tioned in the 12th century, it has a history that stretches shop did you? The shop doubles (or triples, more accu- way before that and has undergone many renovations rately) with a café and a gallery showcasing the artistic since. Thousands head to ring its Wishing Bell annually, works of many Slovene artists including Miha Maleš. which is purported to bring luck to those that ring it. USA The shop is choc-full of traditional handicrafts and local Today included it in its list of the most beautiful churches products, twisted and turned into modern souvenirs. in the world, for quite obvious reasons. Nice t-shirts too. Far from the tacky trap it could be, it Elsewhere on the island we find a Bell Tower with a re- somehow manages to add an element of class to the Try to stay out of the rough at Bled Golf Course. We couldn’t resist a golf pun. Photo by TIC Bled newed Pendulum Clock at the top, not a spark of electric- tourist souvenir shop, which is an impressive feat. The ity in sight. There is also an exhibition house showcasing café is the perfect place to relax before getting the boat Known primarily for the beauty of its lake, castle and Mini Golf some of the finest Slovene art from past and present, as back to shore. Relax with a coffee and a slice of potica, island-bound church, Bled also offers a wealth of sports op- With 3568 square metres of area, 18 holes and 288 metres of well as a fascinating permanent exhibition focused on taking in your last views of the lake from the island be- portunities for professionals, enthusiasts and families. For total length this is one of the largest concrete classic mini golf traditional dress. Wrap up your visit by tasting Potica, a fore heading back. taking in the natural sights of the area there are numerous playgrounds in Europe! Built in 1964, this is actually the old- sort of nut roll made with all sorts of fillings, in the attrac- walking, hiking, cycling and horseback riding opportuni- est golf course in the country, and there's plenty of snacks, tive café before returning to the shore. The Church of the Mother of God on the ties, while a bird’s eye view can be had by paragliding or ice cream, coffee and more to imbibe whilst you deliberate Lake ballooning. In addition, there are fine facilities for golf, mini that. A host of competitions are held here, but mini golf is Bell Tower and Pendulum Clock The most iconic feature of the most iconic attraction in golf, beach volleyball and tennis. Centred around a lake still the domain of fun, enjoyment and excitement. Even so, Separate from the church itself, the Bell Tower is 52m high the country, it is the image of the church on the island and rivers, there are also many water sports to choose from, don't forget to bring your competitive spirit!QD-2/3, Cesta and contains one large and two small bells. Every 15 min- that attracts so many curious visitors to Bled and Slove- including swimming, rafting, fishing, rowing and for those Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)41 84 00 79. Open 09:30-23:00 utes the bells chime to bring in the quarter, meaning there nia every single year. Whilst the location of it alone is rea- who’d like to get a bit more extreme diving, canyoning and April to October. Adults €5, children €4. are plenty of opportunities to see the clock in action. Two son enough to visit, the church itself is full of history and hydrospeed. Surrounded by the Alps, sports such as skiing, opposite winding staircases lead the way up and down. legend. It started life as a small wooden chapel, before snowshoeing, sledding, ice skating and ice climbing are The way up is punctuated with information boards fol- being expanded into a church and renovated on many popular during the winter months. And last but not least, Straža Hill lowing the history of apparatus used to tell time, from occasions through the centuries. A most understated for technophiles there is ample opportunity to hunt for Adventure Park using the position of the sun all the way through to the elegance underpins the interior, with the Stations of the treasure using so-called geocaching apps on your smart- A family adventure park with suspended footbridges, monkey atomic clock. On the journey down however, these signs Cross predominantly showcased. The golden baroque phone or other GPS-enable devices. bars, suspension bridges, carabiners and zip cords, Adventure contain biblical verses made to encourage appreciation altar juxtaposes gracefully with the faded frescoes on Park (or Pustolovksi Park in Slovene) is suitably situated in a forest. of how little time we have on this planet, and the im- either side of it. The 65 attractions and challenges are both professionally built portance of using it wisely. Some of them may be a little It is the Wishing Bell that gets the most attention how- Golf to EU standards and constructed with respect for the natural bleak, but the message is undeniably positive and clear. ever, and the story of its coming to be is a curious mix Bled Golf & Country Club surroundings. You’ll not find any tubular painted steel here, just of fact and fiction. A lady, who lived at Bled Castle, had Situated only 4km from the town centre, Bled Golf logs, ropes and the odd steel cable to aid the adrenaline-filled Potica the bell made from her jewellery after the violent death Course first opened in 1937 and was redesigned by fa- descent from your suspended activities (between one and When it comes to sweets, Bled is first and foremost known of her husband. However, as the bell was being rowed mous golf architect Donald Harradine in 1972. It’s the eight metres high). Popular with families, adults and groups for its famous cream cakes, which originated here in the out to the island from the shore, a storm hit causing the oldest Slovenian golf course and is said to be one of the alike; there are five differently coloured climbing tracks of vary- 1950s. But in Slovenia as a whole, the nut roll cake known boat and all its contents (both human and decorative) most beautiful golf courses in central Europe. The green ing difficulty. A brief safety course and all equipment are pro- as potica is the traditional dessert of choice during most to sink to the bottom of the lake. She was devastated, so fees are not the cheapest in the country, but one look vided before entrance to the park. Located at the top of Straža holidays and other important events. Regardless of the she moved to Rome and took up life in a convent. When at the stunning vistas and the impressive course itself, ski centre.QStraža, tel. +386 (0)31 76 16 61, info@pustolovski- holiday, no Slovene celebration is complete without Pot- she died, the Pope was so devastated that he ordered and most players will consider it well worth it. There is park-bled.si, www.pustolovski-park-bled.si. 4 April - 18 June: ica. A traditional pastry-based nut roll baked in a bread the building of another bell to be transported to Bled. both an 18-hole course and 9-hole short course, and real Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from 11:00-18:00, 29 oven using a round baking dish made of clay called a Now, the story, we aren’t sure, but it is a fact that the bell enthusiasts can combine them for a 27 holes of golfing June - 31 August: Every day from 10:00-20:00, 1 September Potičnica, each region does it slightly differently keeping that rings out from the island today was made in Rome. bliss in a single day.QVrba 37a, tel. +386 (0)1 200 99 - 27 September: Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from this centuries old dessert fresh. Walnut potica is the most Purported to give luck to those who ring it, it is a must- 01, [email protected], www.golfbled.si. 18 holes €70, 9 11:00-18:00, 28 September - 25 October: Saturday, Sunday common but the truth is that the number of fillings is left do when on the island. holes €35. Discount packages are available for week- and public holidays from 11:00-17:00. Adults: €20, Children end stays, see the website for more info. up to 14 years: €16, Children up to 7 years: €10. 22 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 23 Sports & Activities Summer Tobogganing If you’d like to spice up your stay in Bled, then consider a visit Hills Around the Lake to Straža Hill, which offers remarkable views and favourite recreational ground, only a few minutes’ walk from the centre Straža of Bled. From spring to autumn you can enjoy in adrenaline- A leisurely walk to the top, or chairlift, allows visitors to drenched sledding (ie summer tobogganing). The 520m enjoy views of the lake from the south-east, the castle track has an elevation difference of 131m, with sleds reaching and also Mt. Stol in the middle distance. Both summer speeds of up to 40 km/h - a real roller-coaster ride! A chairlift and winter activities are possible here, it being the takes you on the top of the hill, and you can also take a relax- best place to ski in Bled itself. ing walk on one of the many marked pathways or do some serious exercise along the Rikli Fitness Trail.QD-3, Pod Stražo, Osojnica tel. +386 (0)4 578 05 30/+386 (0)31 33 06 47, turizem@ Perhaps the best known spot for Bled’s burgeoning ibled.si, www.straza-bled.si. Open 10:00-20:00 every day portfolio of photography, especially by the professionals, from 22 June to 1 Sept, 11:00-18:00 Sat-Sun only from 27 Osojnica is a 45-minute trek on a steep forest path, ris- April to 21 June and in Sept, and 11:00-17:00 Sat-Sun only ing first to a peak of 685m (Mala Osojnica) then to 756m in Oct. Adults/children €14/9, 3 July - 31 August €15/10. (Velika Osojnica), offering views of the main mountain Prices include chairlift, toboggan and three rides. ranges to the east, and the whole Gorenjska plain.

Ojstrica Swimming The narrow peaked mountain by name is a relatively Public Lido easy walk from Camping Bled (turn left if coming from Just below Bled’s castle rock, a grassy beach awaits those that town), the said peak of which offering really good want to go swimming in beautiful Bled lake. The swimming area views of the lake and campsite. is protected and kept clean for the safety of guests, and you can also rent a sun-bed, umbrella or mat for a small fee, or you can Jelovica just bring your own and hide under the shade of the trees along This Natura 2000 site gets overlooked in favour of some the beach. A water slide on the premises is perfect for those of Bled’s other wonderful natural attractions, but there’s coming with kids.QA-3, Veslaška Promenada 1, tel. +386 (0)4 plenty to appreciate up here as well. A plateau on the 578 05 28, [email protected], www.kopalisce-bled.si. 13 Jun - southern side of Bled, it is covered in pine tree forests 4 Jul, 6 Aug - 13 Sept 09:00-19:00, 5 Jul - 5 Aug 09:00-20:00. and a mass of endangered bird species. Arguably its Closed on rainy days. Whole day - adults/students/children most interesting site is the cave under Babji Zob, an- €7/5.50/4.50. Locker room €2, changing room €7. other in Slovenia’s fine line of mysterious underworlds.

Mežakla Wellness Mežakla is a long undulating plateau about 15 km long, Wellness Essense Bled in the foothills of the Julian Alps. It is mostly covered with Lake Bled is possibly the ultimate place for relaxation, and spruce and beech trees. There are many pastures and clear there isn’t a better option to indulge in this than Wellness streams on the plateau. Mežakla is part of Triglav National Essense Bled. Located in the Penzion Alp guesthouse, a Park, and can be easily accessed by forest road in Spodnje traditional Alpine pension itself, a wide range of treatments Gorje. The main attraction is a natural bridge and hidden are available to suit all desires. Of particular interest is the partisan hospital. Hay Sauna, a unique combination of traditional sauna and aroma-therapy with the added leisure of the countryside. It Pokljuka Canyon is a strangely enjoyable experience that we wholeheartedly Besides the famous Vintgar gorge you can visit a beau- recommend. Reservation is necessary for all services avail- tiful canyon near Krnica. The long and dramatic void able.QCankarjeva 20c, tel. +386 (0)40 99 66 66, info@ is the remainder of the Ribščice stream, carved during Bled Film Festival essense.si, www.essense.si. the retreat of glaciers into limestone rock. It is the larg- est fossil canyon in Slovenia. Here we also find some Živa Wellness karst features, such as a natural bridge, overhanging The second edition of Bled’s glamorous film Živa means several things in Slovenian, one of them being ‘live- rocks and caves. The most famous is the Pokljuka ly’ - and that’s just how you’ll feel after a full body and soul solu- gorge. Last century a narrow footbridge was built festival hits the lake in 2015, and we’ve got tion at this wellness centre. With a holistic approach to physical at the canyon’s narrowest point and subsequently rejuvenation, there’s a wide range of massage available, body named after a Serbian prince. all you need to know and facial treatments, plus a variety of saunas, and a plethora of water based delights to be lapped up; two floors of thermal pools, and of course a whirlpool. Well if it was good enough for Arnold Rikli!QD-3, Cankarjeva 4, tel. +386 (0)4 579 17 02, Much more info online at [email protected], www.wellness-ziva.com. Open 07:00 bled.inyourpocket.com - 21:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 23:00. PTAULG 24 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 25 Bled Film Festival Bled Film Festival being finalised, but festival co-founder Daniel Utješanović has said that 2015’s youth section aims to promote culture Bled Film Festival and ecology amongst the youth. BFF has established cooperation with water.org, a founda- Awards tion active throughout the globe securing people access to drinking water and sanitation solutions. A special golf The festival will once more have an array of awards to be tournament will conclude during the festival, with fund presented. In 2014 Italian actress Caterina Murino chaired being raised for the foundation. the jury, and this years panel promises to be just as star- Continuing the environmentally friendly theme, the festi- studded. val will also see the return of last year’s hugely successful The 2014 Wishing Bell award for Best Actress was award- clean up campaign. Divers from the Slovenian Divers Fed- ed to American actress Viviana Leo for her role in ‘The eration (Slovenska potapljaška zveza) are expecting to pull White Alligator’, a comedy directed by Raquel Almazan. up as much as four metric tons of waste from Lake Bled as The equivalent Best Actor prize went to Belgium’s Ben- well as the Sava and Krka rivers. That’s a lot of waste! oit Poelvoordee, star of ‘Scouting for Zebras’. The hotly contested Best Documentary gong went to ‘Last Call at the Oasis’ by Jessica Yu. An independent jury, chaired Water.org by Czech director Hanka Kastelicova, selected this US- The issue of access to safe water is a very real problem originated film on the water crisis facing the planet. around the world, and some of the statistics make for pretty It wasn’t all expert panel selected, as the audiences of grim reading. This is changing however, thanks to the good Bled Film Festival chose an Audience Award, with ‘Fish work put in by folk like the good people at water.org. Its & Cat’ from Iranian filmmaker Shahram Mokri coming aim is safe water and the dignity of a toilet for all and it has out on top. Each jury also conferred special mentions managed to transform hoardes of communities across the to ‘28’ a feature film from Sri Lankan Prasanna Jayakody, globe. Established in 2009 but tracing its roots back to 1990, and the Swiss-Indian documentary ‘My Name is Salt’, water.org works tirelessly for real partnerships, greater trans- directed by Farida Pasha. parency and much more. Once again, water.org will work in Who will take home the awards in 2015? We look forward co-operation with Bled Film Festival, whose theme and ide- to finding out at the closing ceremony of the festival. ology sits neatly to that of this excellent organisation.

Rade Šerbedžija

After the success of its first incarnation in 2014, Bled Film impressive feat considering the fact EFA members rarely Returning in 2015 to lead the Bled Film Festival once his toes into the waters of directing, poetry and music Festival returns for a second run this year. Taking place meet at the same location twice. more, Rade Šerbedžija is something of an institution with great success. Western eyes might also recognise from between the 16th and 20th of June, feature films Slovenian president Borut Pahor is the honorary sponsor throughout the former Yugoslavia. Born in Croatia and of him from roles in such Hollywood blockbusters as Mis- and documentaries take centre stage, continuing the of the event, and BFF is also partnered with the IEDC Bled Serbian descent, Šerbedžija was one of the most popu- sion: Impossible II, X-Men and Harry Potter. theme of environmental issues focused on water, and School of Management who will host an academic confer- lar Yugoslav actors of the 1960’s and 70’s. He also dipped a whole host of leading filmmakers from south-eastern ence on water as a human right, as well as responsibility Europe, Great Britain and the USA will be involved. An and opportunity ahead of the festival’s opening. The con- expert panel will once more take care of awarding the ference will feature renowned experts from Slovenian and prizes, and the celebratory atmosphere of the event will abroad, including climatologist Lučka Kajfež Bogataj and be accentuated by interviews with the brightest stars, human rights activist Tomo Križnar. free film screenings in the outdoor theatre, VIP after- Internationally acclaimed Croatian-born actor Rade parties and much more. Šerbedžija will preside over proceedings once more, This year the program includes eight documentaries, twelve continuing towards the goal of making this a true mark feature films, two open-air screenings and a short youth on the annual calendar of Slovenia with an ever-increas- film about water. Two premieres are included in all of this, ing net of activists involved. Over 30,000 visitors to the including a special showing of a documentary about the festival are expected, and the celebrations will come Swiss born natural healer and physician Arnold Rikli, the to an end with a wonderful closing ceremony on Bled man who is considered the father of health tourism in Bled. Island. We were lucky enough to attend this ceremony The festival proves to be educational as well as entertain- last year, and we can’t think of a more fitting location for ing however, as expected from such a socially respon- such an event. sible event. A water symposium will be held followed by a round table discussion on Climate Change, as well as a number of workshops following on from the main theme. BFF & WATER Another round table discussion on the subject of saving Surprisingly one of the few eco-film festivals in the world, drinking water will also take place. The popular ‘Interview Bled Film Festival’s major focus is of course on the pres- With a View’ series will return once more. Once again ervation and management of the water resources on the the European Film Academy (EFA) will meet in Bled, an planet. At the time of writing the full program was still 26 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 27 Bled Film Festival Where to Stay Bled provides plenty of choice for those wishing to make door swimming pool.QD-3, Cankarjeva 4, tel. +386 (0)45 BLED FILM PROGRAMME more than a day out of their visit to the town. As well as 79 17 00, [email protected], www.sava-hotels- the hotel listings here, the tourist information advisors can resorts.com. PTHARLGKDXCW 10:00 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade provide the visitor with plenty of advice on the best accom- TUESDAY 16TH JUNE modation options available. Be warned though that during Kompas 12:30 - 13:00 - PROMENADE OPENING - Promenade 15:00 - 20:00 - FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall the peak summer and winter seasons rooms fill up fast. We can’t resist a panoramic terrace in the summer, with views Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and Three films, question and answer session looking over the lake and the mountains in the distance. In other activities fact, we defy anyone to resist. Hotel Kompas offers this in its 16:00 - 17:30 - ROUND TABLE Cream of the Crop most charming veranda, but that is just the tip of this most 11:00 - 15:30 - IEDC WATER SYMPOSIUM - IEDC How to Save Drinking Water Grand Hotel Toplice luxurious iceberg. Built in an Alpine style to compliment the Accredited access Complete with its legendary thermal swimming pool that environment in which it finds itself, Kompas also has relax- 22:00 - 01:00 - OPEN-AIR FILM - Promenade provides more than enough of a reason to stay here any- ation and fitness centres for those wanting to de-stress or 11:00 - 14:00 - DOCUMENTARY FILM (COMPETITION) - Commercial film screening way, Toplice’s rather stark exterior betrays wealth of comfort exercise respectively.QD-3, Cankarjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)4 620 Festival Hall and style inside its walls. The rooms and suites are all well- 51 00, [email protected], www.kompashotel.com. Two films, question and answer session designed, some of them exceedingly elegant, and all com- PTHA6UFLGKDXCW ing with en suite bathrooms, cable television, minibars and 12:30 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade FRIDAY 19TH JUNE internet access. The lakeside location is arguably the best Vila Alice 10:00 - 01:00 - PROMENADE - Promenade in Bled, with further attractions including three restaurants As far as first impressions go, Vila Alice really couldn’t make a 19:30 - 20:00 - OFFICIAL OPENING OF THE FESTIVAL - Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and plus two bars, as well as excellent wellness and conference better one. A short walk from the lake and the bus station, this FIRST FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall other activities facilities.QD-3, Cesta Svobode 12, tel. +386 (0)4 579 10 00, century old house has been modernised in the most adorable Red carpet, accredited access [email protected], www.sava-hotels-resorts. fashion and simply put is one of the prettiest boutique hotels 11:00 - 14:00 - DOCUMENTARY FILM (COMPETITION) - com. PHARUFLGKDXCW we’ve come across. Seven spacious rooms fill the house, with 20:30 - OPENING PARTY - Promenade Festival Hall the room named ‘Fire’ being the standout. The staff is multi-lin- Two films, question and answer session gual and immensely helpful, the breakfast is beautifully varied. Upmarket Such attention to detail is to be cherished.QD-2, Prešernova 13:00 - 14:00 - INTERVIEW WITH A VIEW - Bled Castle Best Western Premier Hotel Lovec 26, tel. +386 (0)59 95 87 80, fax +386 (0)40 23 13 03, info@ WEDNESDAY 17TH JUNE Standing for over 100 years now, Hotel Lovec brings a unique vila-alice.com, www.vila-alice.si. 7 rooms (singles €100, 10:00 - 01:00 - PROMENADE - Promenade 10:00 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade hominess to the Bled accommodation table. Its architecture twins €160, superior €240). PJHARLBDW Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and is informed and influenced by its surroundings, leaving it in other activities 15:00 - 20:00 - FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall complete harmony with the beauty it finds itself in. The on-site Triglav Three films, question and answer session wellness centre makes Lovec the very definition of relaxation, a Situated on the less-developed western shore of the lake, this 13:00 - 14:00 - INTERVIEW WITH A VIEW - Bled Castle peaceful utopia in the most gorgeous of surroundings. Its Grill recently renovated Bled mainstay has thankfully managed to 22:00 - 01:00 - OPEN-AIR FILM - Promenade Restaurant is well worth nipping into as well. Hotel Lovec truly maintain the rustic charm and elegance you would expect 10:00 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade Commercial film screening is the complete package.QD-3, Ljubljanska 6, tel. +386 (0)4 from a hundred-year old hotel located in one of Slovenia’s 620 41 00, [email protected], www.lovechotel.com. most idyllic settings. As long as you’re not adverse to the 11:00 - 14:00 - DOCUMENTARY FILM (COMPETITION) - PHAR6ULGKDXCW colour yellow, it’s 22 cozy rooms and excellent service are a Festival Hall great value, especially during the low season. Just make sure Two films, question and answer session SATURDAY 20TH JUNE Garden Village Resort to request a lake view. The hotel also arranges a variety of ac- 10:00 - 01:00 - PROMENADE - Promenade It’s a point that’s been rammed home to the point of fatigue, tivities and excursions, from cooking workshops to horseback 15:00 - 20:00 - FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and but Bled is a beautiful place, the hotels are beautiful, every- riding to day-long steam train journeys through the Alps.QA- Two films, question and answer session other activities thing is beautiful. For somewhere to stand out it must truly be 2, Kolodvorska 33, tel. +386 (0)45 75 26 10, fax +386 (0)45 special, and we’re still not sure if the term ‘special’ really does 75 26 11, [email protected], www.hoteltriglavbled. 21:00 - 22:00 - CINEPLEXX SURPRISE FILM PREMIERE - 10:00 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade Garden Village Resort justice at all. It’s a romantic’s dream. si. PTJARUIFLEGDW Festival Hall The simple exteriors mask the most stylish interiors in this 13:00 - 15:00 - SPECIAL FILM SCREENING - Festival Hall dream-like accommodation. Tree houses, a garden restaurant Vila Bled Documentary film premiere (Arnold Rikli: 56 minutes) with a small stream dissecting it, glamping, it even provides Whilst the grand stairs leading up to an equally grand Accredited access/ticket access a studio apartment with a Jacuzzi in the living room.QCesta building may look a little daunting at first, what is wait- THURSDAY 18TH JUNE Gorenjskega Odreda 16, tel. +386 (0)83 89 92 20, info@ ing at the top is quite the treat. Josip Tito deemed it good 10:00 - 01:00 - PROMENADE - Promenade 15:00 - 17:00 - FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall gardenvillagebled.com, www.gardenvillagebled.com. enough to act as his summer residence and many for- Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and One film eign dignitaries were hosted here, such as Soviet leader other activities Golf Nikita Krushchev, Indira Ghandi and even Kim Il Sung. 21:00 - 22:00 - CLOSING AND AWARD CEREMONY* - A smidgen up the hill from the lake in a secluded area of Since opening as a hotel in 1984, it has also had Prince 11:00 - 14:00 - DOCUMENTARY FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall/Bled Island trees, the almost pagoda-looking Hotel Golf’s reputation Charles, Paul McCartney and Eva Herzigova through its Festival Hall Invitation only as a haven of tranquillity is clearly warranted. The cool blue doors. Quite the list. Spacious suites with elegant 1950s Two films, question and answer session and cream rooms feature en suite facilities with either bath furnishing are the order of the day, with a gorgeous res- 22:30 - CLOSING AFTER PARTY - Promenade or shower, cable television and balconies, some with excel- taurant and peaceful coffee room to boot.QB-4, Cesta 13:00 - 14:00 - INTERVIEW WITH A VIEW - Bled Castle lent views of the lake and mountains. Four kilometres from Svobode 26, tel. +386 (0)4 575 37 10, vilabled@gov. the superb 18-hole golf course, other treats include good si, www.vilabled.com. Open from April till October. wellness facilities, conference rooms and a magnificent in- HAR6LGKDW 28 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 29 Where to Stay Where to stay paRk Hotel Bled venison we’ve had. The restaurants also has a number of A huge waterside hotel from the golden age of Yugoslavia, diff erent restaurant rooms to suit any and all moods.Qd- buDgEt with splendid balconies, nicely appointed rooms all coming 3, Cesta Svobode 45, tel. +386 (0)4 574 14 04, fax +386 pletNa RooMs with en suite facilities, an indoor heated pool and a defi nite (0)4 574 15 06, [email protected], www.mlino.si. A welcoming family-owned establishment in the small emphasis on wellness and fi tness in general. All rooms over- lakeside village of Milno (only a mile away from the cen- looking the lake come with air conditioning, plus there’s a saviCa tre of Bled) provides an enjoyable stay full of activities at nice choice of bars and restaurants. The hotel is famous for The magnifi cently renovated Savica is one of Slovenia’s your very doorstep. Directly in front of the pension, you its kremšnita cream cakes, which it has now produced over more family-friendly hotels. With a grand total of 90 will fi nd a perfect spot for swimming out into the pristine 12 million of.Qd-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)4 579 bright, colourful rooms and 14 apartments complete lake on a summer’s day or you can opt to hire a boat, also 18 00, [email protected], www.sava-hotels- with self-contained kitchen units, facilities include cable at the wharf to the lake’s little islet for just €12-17.QC-4, resorts.com. ARUFLGKDXCW television, en suite facilities with a choice of either bath or Cesta Svobode 37, tel. +386 (0)4 57 43 702/+386 (0)41 shower, minibars and balconies in every room. Attractions 393 899, [email protected], www.sloveniaholidays.com/ for families travelling with their children include intercon- sobe-pletna. TJA6LW miD-rAngE nected rooms, two communal play areas and the occa- jadRaN sional children’s entertainment.QCankarjeva 6, tel. +386 The Garni Hotel Jadran, with its distinctive large balconies (0)45 79 19 00, [email protected], www. hoStelS entwined with thick green ivy, richly old-fashioned rooms sava-hotels-resorts.com. PTARFLKDC Hostel HaCieNda and architecturally pleasing structure is a gratifying choice Situated in a quiet neighbourhood some 400m from of accommodation, not to mention its location being close tRst the lake, guest are able to enjoy the kind of peace and to explore the beautiful surroundings Bled has to off er. A friendly, small hotel along the main high street off ers relaxation that is more or less impossible to come by in Breakfast is served in a deliberately retro-style parlour and rooms with a view of the Bled’s castle and lake, but its door- the always bustling centre of town. The house is sur- you can opt for dinner at its partner restaurant, the Panora- step is almost crammed up onto its busy, noisy street. Due to rounded by a large garden where guests can freely play ma.Qd-3, Cesta Svobode 21, tel. +386 (0)4 579 13 65, fax the hotel’s lack of services, it invites its guests for discounts volleyball, badminton or football, and inside there’s a +386 (0)4 574 16 61, [email protected], www. and special off ers at its sister hotels: Grand Hotel Toplice for party room downstairs with table football and darts. sava-hotels-resorts.com. TJHA6ULBK its thermal pool and wellness programmes, and the nearby Those staying three or more days can get free transfers Golf Hotel which provides a beauty centre, a sauna and to the local bus and train stations, a 50% discount to jeloviCa more besides.Qd-3, Svobode 19, tel. +386 (0)4 579 12 86, the airport and further discounts the Bled Tours travel The shortest of strolls from the lake itself, Hotel Jelovica is fax +386 (0)4 574 16 61, [email protected], www. agency, which also runs the place.Qe-4, Jelovška a well-established hotel in Bled that has garnered a fi ne sava-hotels-resorts.com. TJA6UGKDC 25, tel. +386 (0)31 321 100, [email protected]. reputation for itself, and for good reason. With 89 rooms it A6LBXW certainly isn’t on the small side and caters for large groups exceptionally well as a result. Jelovica’s trump card is the tRavelleR’s HaveN sheer number of communal extras on off er, from the health This lovely 20th century house turned youth-hostel is per- and beauty centre to sports rooms to conference rooms and fect for the backpacker or budget traveller seeking a cheap much more.Qd-2, Svobode 8, tel. +386 (0)45 79 60 00, bunk-bed and a location that is close to the town, the lake fax +386 (0)4 579 60 10, [email protected], www. and a supermarket. Guests can make use of the common hotel-jelovica.si. AFLGKDXCW room, kitchen, an internet-connected computer and a washing machine, and borrow bikes for free.Qd-2, rikli- jeZeRska Hiša jeva 1, tel. +386 (0)41 39 65 45, travellers-haven@t-2. This small family run inn off ers homey accommodation net, www.travellers-haven.si. amidst the lush greenery of the Bled golf course (4km from Lake Bled) - the perfect place for a peaceful retreat or, de- pending on how you play, a relaxing golfi ng weekend. The ApArtmEnts staff are very helpful, whilst rooms are comfortable and spa- Bled apaRtMeNts cious with balconies looking out to the mountains. Guests Only 800m from the lake on the main road into town, also receive an excellent complementary breakfast and ex- Bled Apartments off er self-catering accommodation just a clusive access to the immaculate golf course. The inn’s res- short walk away from everything. With studios and apart- taurant serve very good local specialities with decent value ments for up to four people, it has free on-site parking and set menus.QBled Golf Course, alpska 114, tel. +386 (0)4 plenty of amenities just a stones throw away. Frequent last 53 73 305/+386 (0)41 762 636, lakehousebled@gmail. minute special off ers are available, including such gems as com, www.lake-house-bled.com. a free boat ride out to the island on the lake. Free Wi-Fi is off ered throughout as well.QLjubljanska 32, tel. +386 peNZioN MliNo (0)41 66 76 61, [email protected], www. Nestled neatly on the coastline of the lake, Penzion Mlino bledapartment.si. provides not only some of the most enchanting views of the lake but also a great option for staying in Bled - guests can even take advantage of free bike rentals. Thirteen More hotels online at simple but elegantly furnished en suite rooms are compli- bled.inyourpocket.com mented by the restaurant, which serves some of the best 30 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 31 Shopping ShoppinG centre Bled sHoppiNg CeNtRe We’ll be the fi rst to admit that nobody visits Lake Bled to check out a shopping centre, but then we suppose not many shopping centres are situated next to majestic lakes. The Bled Shopping Centre (it is known by a diff erent name, but you'll have to ask the locals about that) covers four fl oors and contains over 60 outlets within its boundaries. Cafes, restaurants, fashion stores, souvenirs, bars, clubs, supermarkets, pharmacies and more, if you need it you can more than likely fi nd it in the Bled Shopping Centre. Qd-3, Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)45 74 11 10, fax +386 (0)45 74 11 20.

HoNeyHouse Bled GiFtS & SouvenirS Does exactly what it says on the tin, well jar actually. In gaRdeN village sHop fact, there are more than just jars here, indeed every kind The Garden Village Empire continues to grow with the open- of honey and related memorabilia you could imagine. The ing of the Garden Village shop. Now, close your eyes and sweet sticky stuff is a locally produced domestic delicacy imagine somewhere called the ‘Garden Village Shop’. What that makes for a more authentic souvenir than a lot of the you imagined won’t be too far from the reality here, as nature tacky rubbish (for want of a better word) out there. You’ll really does take over. All of Slovenia is covered, whether it is fi nd liquor, wines, sweets and even cold remedies, in addi- prosciutto from the Karst, pumpkin seed oil from Prekmurje, tion to plain good old fashioned HONEY!Qd-3, Ljubljan- Slovenian whiskey and more (including some particularly ska 4, tel. +386 (0)46 20 97 00, [email protected]. open unusual jams). If you’re unsure, head over to the tasting cor- 09:00 - 19:00. ner to get some samples.QCesta Gorenjskega odreda 16, tel. +386 (0)40 55 23 25, [email protected], tRgoviNa alBidaR gardenvillagebled.com/en/shop/. With an unbeatable location on the shores of the lake, Trgovina Albidar is a fi ne place to stop to pick up some souvenirs during your time in Bled. Here we fi nd many products made from the internationally renowned Rogaška crystal, including glasses, vases and much more. Albidar also sells adorable models depicting traditional national costumes, and you can’t get more Slovenian than that.QCesta svobode 10, tel. +386 (0)4 574 32 10, [email protected]. open 09:00 - 20:00.

sitRa With two shops (Foto Sitra & Antika Sitra) in a primer than prime location, look no further for all the photography supplies tourists could ever need as well as a wide range of souvenirs and personalized gifts. Both shops are situated within the main shopping centre by the lake. QLjubljan- ska 4, +386 (0)4 574 13 25, [email protected] 100

jošt gaNtaR pHotogRapHy 95 If you’re looking for excellent photography, look no fur- ther. Jošt Gantar is too good to specialise, with top quality 75 work in property photography, photo tours, events and weddings and more. If you want to capture a particularly special moment, Jošt is your man. Qtel +386 (0)41 24 65 49, [email protected], www.jostgantar.com. 25

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32 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com

oglas bled in your pocket 5. maj 2015 16:23:51 Radovljica Radovljica settlement, nowadays Radovljica Mansion dominates the upper section of Linhart Square and is one of the centres of Tourist Information cultural life in the region. Expanded and renovated over the centuries, much of its appearance dates from the mid-17th Hop-On Hop-Off Radol’ca century, while the High Baroque façade was added in the While the hop-on, hop-off tourist bus concept is a fa- early 18th century. It is now home to part of the permanent miliar sight in most of the world’s major cities, it’s not collection of the Municipal Museum of Radovljica and the often that you see such a thing in rural areas and small Apiculture Museum. However, the mansion’s single most fa- towns. However, Radovljica’s forward thinking tourist mous element is likely the glorious Baroque Hall on the first office has realised that this is the perfect way for visi- floor, with sweeping views of the mountains in the distance it tors to discover some of the region’s hidden corners is a popular venues for weddings, concerts and other events. and off the beaten path venues. Operating from the QLinhartov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)4 531 5112, www.radolca.si. beginning of July till the end of August, every Tues- day the bus makes four circular journeys along a route Radovljica Municipality Museums covering Bled, Radovljica, Begunje, Podvin and Brezje, Under the auspices of the Institute of Radovljica Municipal- before returning to Bled via Radovljica, taking in all the ity Museums, there are five separate historical museums. In sights along the way, while on Thursdays the route the centre of Radovljica, is the Radovljica Municipal Museum is Bled, Radovljica, Kamna Gorica and Kropa. Special with a permanent exhibition of the first Slovene playwright, guided tours and other activities can also be arranged historian and pedagogue Anton Tomaž Linhart (1756-1795), in advance. For more info and full programme see the Museum of Apiculture which presents, among other the website of Tourism Radovljica.QLinhartov Trg 9, things, this unique tradition of Slovene folk culture, and the tel. +386 (0)4 531 51 12/+386 (0)40 460 675, info@ Šivec House Art Gallery with a rich collection of book illus- radolca.si, www.radolca.si. All day tickets are €5 for trations and monthly exhibitions. Eleven kilometres south of adults, free for children under 10. Radovljica, in Kropa, is the Iron Forging Museum, which rec- The gorgeous main square of Radovljica reates the town’s hundred-year-old tradition of iron work. TIC Radovljica And last but not least, some seven kilometres to the north of Radovljica’s tourist information centre can be conve- Radovljica, or Radol’ca as it is more affectionately known, for Anton Tomaž Linhart, an 18th-century playwright, Radovljica, in Begunje na Gorenjskem, one can visit the Mu- niently found near the main entrance to Linhart Square. may not be as well-known as nearby Bled, but it boasts a historian and Radovljica’s most famous son, who among seum of Hostages, a memorial to the victims of Nazi terror Located on the ground floor of the Mrak House, the of- wide range of sights and activities, and also offers some- other achievements penned the first Slovene comedy, the during the Second World War. See the institute’s English lan- fice provides a whole host of information and services thing that its more famous neighbour simply can’t: peace, square is lined with historic buildings dating from the 15th guage website for directions, opening times and admission for the town, municipality and entire Gorenjska region, quiet and a relaxing medieval town atmosphere. An ad- to 19th centuries and is a veritable open air museum of fees.QLinhartov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)4 532 05 20, fax +386 including accommodation, excursions, maps, tickets ministrative centre since the 16th century, today the mu- different architectural styles. It was renovated and turned (0)4 532 05 24, [email protected], www.muzeji-radovljica.si. and free internet. It also has a wide selection of typi- nicipality of Radovljica comprises some four dozen indi- into a pedestrian-only zone a couple of years ago. cal Slovene souvenirs, as well as products made under vidual settlements and nearly 20,000 people. At the centre Linhart Square hosts number of historical and cultural Beekeeping Centre (Čebelarski Razvojno- its own brand, such as honey and homemade choco- of it all, and of most interest to tourists, is the picturesque events through the year, but the biggest event is the Izobraževalni Center Gorenjske) late pralines with traditional potica cake filling. Free old town situated on a hilltop overlooking the Dežela plain Chocolate Festival. It takes place every year in April and is If you’re like most visitors to Slovenia you have a vague un- guided tours of the old town depart from here every to the east and the Sava river valley to the west, with per- the biggest of its kind in Slovenia. derstanding that the country is famous for its traditional Tuesday throughout the year at 10:00.QLinhartov Trg fect views of the Julian Alps dominating the background beekeeping practices and of course its honey, and you 9, tel. +386 (0)4 531 51 12/+386 (0)40 460 675, info@ in seemingly all directions. may have even seen some painted beehive panels for sale radolca.si, www.radolca.si. Open every day 09:00- The compact city centre is a veritable open air museum of Radovljica Festival in a gift shop, but you’re not sure where to go to see a 18:00 in summer, 10:00-16:00 in winter. beautifully restored buildings, narrow sloping streets and comprehensive presentation of this fascinating field - at pleasant sidewalk cafés. The wider area is home to countless Radovljica has been a top destination for early mu- least this is the feeling we once had. hiking and cycling paths, some great accommodation op- sic enthusiasts for more than 30 years, as each Au- However, with the opening of the Beekeeping Centre tions (including an award-winning campsite, a newly built gust the town hosts two weeks of concerts by top in 2012, all the education, development, demonstration tourist farm and several old town guest houses), an airport musicians from around world, making it the longest and promotional activities related to beekeeping that offering scenic flights and the Bled-Lesce train station. We running festival of its kind in the country. Perfor- you could possibly imagine can be found in the same also find the lovely village of Kropa, known as the home of mances are held in the magnificent Baroque Hall at place. Learn about the long history of beekeeping and Slovenian blacksmithing for centuries. All of this, plus the Radovljica Mansion as well as in the Church of St see how honey gets from the flower to the jar, and is genuinely welcoming spirit of its residents, should lead Peter nearby. During the events there is a free festi- nowadays used for a diverse range of purposes in addi- many visitors to consider choosing Radol’ca as their base for val bus that brings guests to Radovljica from Kranj tion to sweetening your tea. the region and making Bled a day trip, rather than vice versa. and Ljubljana.QRadovljica Early Music Society, For most people the highlight of any visit will be tast- Linhartov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)4 531 22 91, info@ ing the different varieties of honey, but many other ac- radolca.si, www.festival-radovljica.si. tivities, workshops and short trips can be arranged with WHAT TO SEE advanced notice. Definitely one of the sweetest destina- Linhart Square (Linhartov Trg) tions in Slovenia!QRožna Dolina 50a, Lesce, tel. +386 The town’s main square is one of the best-preserved (0)31 628 499, [email protected], www. medieval squares in Slovenia, and home to the majority Radovljica Mansion cricg.com. Open Tues 09:00-16:00, and by prior ar- of its sights, the tourist information office, several cafés Originally built by the wealthy Counts of Ortenburg in the rangement for groups.Mon-Fri 07:00-15:00 (till 18:00 The nature around Radovljica demands to be explored and provides and even a couple of accommodation options. Named middle of the 15th-century in what was then a small German in July-Aug), Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. some gorgeous views 34 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 35 Radovljica Bohinj kropA

This little village is a hidden gem tucked away in the narrow Lipnica valley below the Jelovica plateau, a 20-minute drive south of Radovljica. Kropa’s rich tech- nical heritage and unique preserved architecture led it to be the fi rst settlement in Slovenia to be named as a protected cultural monument. Known as the cradle of Slovene iron-forging, the area was a busy industrial hub with numerous small scale foundries and ironworks op- erating between the 14th and 19th centuries. The Iron Forging Museum is full of informative displays covering the whole process of working iron as well as the social, Wine shop "Sodček" economic and historical development of Kropa. You Aleš Čebašek s.p. can also fi nd interesting examples of local contempo- Linhartov trg 8, 4240 Radovljica rary wrought iron and perhaps even a nice souvenir at Tel.: +386(0)4 531 50 71, the UKO Kropa wrought-iron shop GSM: +386(0)41 678 408 iRoN FoRgiNg MuseuM OPEN: QKropa 10, tel. +386 (0)4 533 7200, kropa@muzeji- Monday - Saturday from 9:00 - 21:00 radovljica.si. admission €3 adults, €2 children. Sunday & Holidays CLOSED uko WRougHt iRoN sHop Visit our homely wine cellar with a licensed bar QKropa 7a, tel. +386 (0)4 533 7310, www.uko.si. where you can taste a glass of a good wine and open Mon-Fri 07:00-15:00 (till 18:00 in July-aug), have a chat with the locals and also buy a good Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Slovenian wine as a gift to take it to your friend.

rEstAurAnts The stunning panorama or Lake Bohinj and Triglav National Park gostišče tulipaN Surrounded by Slovenia’s highest mountains - the im- other detectable sound is the fl ap of the wings of large birds Easy to fi nd just off the motorway on the main north-south pressive Julian Alps - and boasting the country’s largest in fl ight over this crystal clear lake. By Bohinj you can be at road going through Lesce, the newly-renovated Tulipan lake - the spectacular Lake Bohinj - as well as heaps more one with yourself, and peace is unavoidable. serves up a menu full of fi lling Slovene and international natural attractions, Bohinj is truly a pristine wonderland. cuisine in its wood-covered dining areas and intimate Located inside the Triglav National Park, the area com- BoHiNj Boat touRs outdoor terraces. The house specialities are game dishes, prising 24 quaint alpine villages has been protected from What better way to see all that Lake Bohinj has to off er including several venison choices and some excellent wild large scale development which is great for those of us than via a guided panoramic boat tour? The tours on of- boar. Rooms are also available upstairs.Qalpska 8, Lesce, who prefer a quieter, more relaxed travel experience. A fer won’t fail in providing inspiring scenery as you get to tel. +386 (0)4 537 88 00, [email protected], www. solid line up of festivals liven up things and Bohinj’s stun- know the lake from its very heart. A choice of two boats tulipan-azman.si. open Mon-thur 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat ning landscapes provide ideal settings for year-round is on off er (the Bohinj and the Zlatorog), with the fi rst de- 12:00-23:00 and Sun 12:00-22:00. (€6-18). TALB outdoor fun - skiing, hiking and canoeing to list just a partures leaving at 10:00. There are two entry and exit few. Culture-wise, explore the areas traditional villages points, one at the pier in Ribčev Laz and the second at and interesting museums and make sure to sample some camp Zlatorog in the village of Ukanc. The fi nal boat from winE bAr bEgunJE delicious local cuisine - head to one of the area’s many Ribčev Laz leaves at 17:30, with its equivalent in Ukanc viNoteka sodček excellent restaurants typifi ed by their homely hospitality. departing 30 minutes later at 18:00. Whilst individuals While the largely mountainous Gorenjska region is not one of Sitting in the foothills of the spectacular Karavanke could be able to turn up for a spot due to the frequent the Slovenia’s major wine growing areas, that doesn’t mean mountains and Kamnik Alps, Begunje na Gorenjskem, departures, groups are recommended to reserve in that the locals are any bit less enthusiastic about drinking the or just Begne to the locals, fi rst appeared in the his- eSSential Bohinj advance. The Bohinj boat has a capacity of 52 people, stuff - as evidenced by this combination wine shop and bar at torical records around the 11th century. The village lake BoHiNj (BoHiNjsko jeZeRo) and the Zlatorog 75.Qtel. +386 (0)4 57 47 590, +386 41 the edge of Radovljica’s main square. If you’d like a liquid souve- and surrounding countryside is rich in natural beauty Lake Bohinj, the jewel at the centre of this scattering of vil- 644 986, [email protected], [email protected], www. nir there’s a fi ne selection of bottles from across Slovenia, and and cultural heritage including a number of signifi - lages in eastern Gorenjska, is absolutely breathtaking. Come bohinj.si, www.tourist-boat.eu. there’s also the option of fi lling up multi-litre jugs for those stay- cant archaeological sites. At the heart of Begunje is early in the morning out of season, just before the sun has ing at a nearby campsite or apartment. However, our favourite the impressive Katzenstein Mansion and gardens, the risen over the adjacent peaks to experience its awe. Mist CHuRCH oF st joHN tHe Baptist option is the wine tasting menu, which includes fi ve diff erent onetime home of the Lambeg Counts. Begunje is also shrouds the banks of this still and fl at alpine wonder. The It may only be a small church, but bigger isn’t always bet- wines along with a plate of Slovenian prosciutto, cheeses and famous for being home to Elan, one of the world’s pure quiet of this location really brings nature to life once ter when it comes to these things. Containing some of olive oil for only €12. QLinhartov trg 8, radovljica, tel. +386 leading ski manufacturers, and Slavko Avsenik, a pio- more. Only birdsong emanates from the surrounding Eden, the oldest frescoes in the entire country, the church over (0)4 531 59 71, [email protected], info@vinoteka- neer of popular Slovene folk music. the splash of one of Bohinj’s ‘yellow-bellied’ fi sh, or the crash a stone bridge at Bohinj is a monument of national im- sodcek.si. open 09:00-21:00, Closed Sun. of Savica waterfall in the middle distance. Perhaps the only portance to say the least. Whilst it receives its fi rst offi cial 36 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 37 Bohinj Bohinj written mention in the 15th century, it is almost certainly as it looks to have three peaks when seen from the Bohinj older and it spans a number of different architectural valley. Around Bohinj periods from the Romanesque all the way to Baroque. The first recorded ascent of Triglav was made on 26 Pokljuka (goreljek) The church is choc-full of fascination, whether it is the August 1778, by Luka Korošec, Matija Kos, Štefan Rožič Untouched, unspoiled and undiscovered: Pokljuka, the three wooden altars made at various points of the 17th and Lovrenc Willomitzer, on the initiative of baron Si- glacier formed, limestone plateau in the Julian Alps is all century, the Gothic entryway or the baroque bell tower; gismund Zois. Its height was first measured in 1808 of these things. Being shrouded in spruce forest and sit- there is something of interest at almost every turn. It by Valentin Stanič. At the top of the mountain stands ting at 1000-1400m, it is mysterious when the weather is is the frescoes that steal the show however, featuring a tiny metal structure, the Aljaž Tower. A storm shelter cloudy, but on sunny days it’s crystal clear and pristine in among them a multi-layered depiction of St Christopher for climbers, it is named after Jakob Aljaž, a priest who every way. and a representation of Cain and Abel, complete with bought the land at the Triglav peak for a single Austro- Launched as an alpine resort destination several years ago, rare white devils. It takes a lot to challenge the majesty of Hungarian florin from the then municipality of Dovje with a few brand new or renovated hotels opened since, the lake for main event status, but the Church of St John in 1895. Pokljuka’s main attractions are the huge cross-country ski- the Baptist comes dangerously close. Triglav today attracts skiers in winter (to nearby Vogel) and ing/running track and world cup hosting biathlon center. climbers in summer. The climb to the summit is not all that There are moderate difficulty hiking trails nearby, offering Mostnica Gorge (Korita Mostnice) hard, but it is long. It’s a two-day ascent to the top, and fantastic views, and rare alpine plant species to be found The numerous signs, typically carved in log planks, direct requires an overnight stay in a mountain cabin. in and around the numerous bogs. Great for those want- you to this hidden gem. A tiny bridge tucked away in the ing a peaceful and/or active mountain escape, at high hills behind Stara Fužina and the lake connects two sides Savica Waterfall (Slap Savica) altitude. of a deeply spectacular gorge. Take in a splendid view of Your time spent in Bohinj would not be complete with- Triglav while the turquoise torrent swirls below.QStara out a day trip to one of Slovenia’s greatest waterfalls. Vogel View Point Fužina. To reach the waterfall it’s a roughly one hour walk up a The Vogel Ski Centre is one of our favourite places to hit the thickly forested slope. The waterfall itself drops a tow- slopes mainly because of the incredible panoramic views Mount Triglav ering 78m into a large water sink, which is located at of the Julian Alps and Lake Bohinj, but you don’t need to Mount Triglav is the highest mountain in Slovenia, rising to an altitude of 500m. An inspirational sight, it has often wait for the snow to check out the views. In fact, without 2864m in the centre of a national park of the same name. been written about by well-known Slovenian poets and needing to worry about snowboarders cutting you off The mountain is the symbol of Slovenia (it appears on the writers. A small entrance fee is required at the entrance and with the mountainsides a bloom with wild flowers the coat of arms), and the country’s flag was flown here on to the site.QBohinjsko jezero, tel. +386 (0)4 574 60 views are possibly even more spectacular. There are also June 26th, 1991, the day Slovenia declared independence 10, [email protected], www.bohinj-info.com. countless opportunities for hiking and mountain biking in- from Yugoslavia. The name, Triglav, means three-headed, Admission €1.0 - 2.50. cluding at a newly opened bike park up on Vogel, making it a great year round destination.QUkanc 6, tel. +386 (0)4 5729 712, [email protected], www.vogel.si. Cable car oper- They say Bohinj is a little wilder than Bled… Photo by capsicina / Flickr ates daily 08:00-18:00 (every half an hour), in summer 07:00-19:00. Return tickets €13.50 adults, €9 children the Vodnikova lookout provides one of the best views of (family discounts available). the valley and lake. Further afield, the highland forests of Pukljuka are also stunning and there are more challenging hikes higher up the Alps where there is also a network of SPORT & ACTIVITIES mountain cabins providing accommodation. For more in- Hiking formation and maps, visit the Tourist Information Centre in With a stunning backdrop of high mountains, hiking in Bo- Bohinjska Bistrica, or call +386 45 74 75 90. hinj may seem daunting but never fear there are routes to suit all abilities along with guided tours and the Vogel cable FISHING car offers easy access to walks in the higher altitudes and Whether you are a serious angler or just looking to sit in summit views. Great easy walks include the Savica Water- a little boat all day drinking beer (yes, we learnt to fish in fall, Mostnica Gorge and around Lake Bohinj itself, whilst Australia), Lake Bohinj and the surrounding rivers are the

38 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 39 Bohinj

EvEnts

23.05 Saturday - 07.06 Sunday 11.09 Friday - 11.10 Sunday iNteRNatioNal alpiNe FloWeR Festival BoHiNj HikiNg Festival The breathtaking beauty of Bohinj’s alpine scenery is Bohinj has been a popular destination for hikers for well-known, with images of rocky peaks, rural farms, centuries, so it’s no surprise that it is home to one of abundant wildlife and of course the majestic lake itself Slovenia’s largest hiking events - the so-called Days of gracing the covers of various books, brochures and Hiking. Taking place in September and October each family photo albums. However, the region also boasts year, the event aims to promote the area’s rich hiking an incredible botanical richness, which has fascinated tradition and potential as a world class hiking destina- visitors long before the railway brought a spike in tourist tion, and is comprised of three parts: Recreation, which arrivals more than a century ago. In fact, as far back as includes guided tours along various paths, trails and the mid-18th century foreigners were penning odes to themed trips; Competition, with several sports events Bohinj’s diverse fl oral beauty, such as the scientist, trav- held in cooperation with Slovene hiking societies; and eller and explorer Balthazar Hacquet, who was so in love Social activities, including concerts, exhibitions, lec- with the region that he not only wrote a three-volume tures and hiking-related workshops.Qtel. +386 (0)4 tome about the fl ora here, but also yearned to return 574 75 90/+386 (0)31 557 124, [email protected], www. and spend the rest of his life as a shepherd. bohinj.si. In celebration of Bohinj’s unique fl oral environment, there is a two-week long International Flower Festival 26.09 Saturday - 03.10 Saturday at the end of May and beginning of June each year, BoHiNj FisHiNg Festival You can’t quite beat lake-refl ected imagery, and Bohinj is full of it with a veritable bouquet of events and activities taking More of a venue for fl y fi shing enthusiasts to socialise, place across the entire region, including exhibitions, share experiences and of course hone their crafts than perfect place to cast your line with the season running holiday-makers who would like to combine activities and guided excursions, workshops, lectures, concerts, a rigidly organised event per se, nevertheless Bohinj’s from 1 May to 14 November. Standing beside the lake you nature in their holiday package. You can pop in to their in- open-air markets and much more.QVarious Venues, annual fi shing festival has become an increasingly can see large schools of trout, the waters are also home to formation points in town, situated in front of the Pension www.bohinj.si. popular event on the calendar, taking place each year Charr, Chub and Burbot, but catching them is another story. Rožič and at Camp Zlatorog.Qribčev Laz 50, tel. +386 (0)4 at the end of September and beginning of October. To start with you’ll need a licence, gear and skill - or is fi sh- 572 34 61, [email protected], www.pac-sports.com. 01.07 WedneSday - 05.07. Sunday The programme generally consists of days spent fi sh- ing all about luck? Bohinj being somewhat of a Mecca for eCa CaNoe MaRatHoN euRopeaN CHaMpi- ing on one of several rivers in or near Bohinj (namely Slovene anglers, the lake also hosts an annual international RaNč MRCiNa oNsHip & MasteRs euRopeaN Cup the Sava Bohinjska, Soča, Idrijca and Savinja), with fi shing festival at the end of September and beginning of Organising riding tours since 1999, the good folk at Mrcina Looks like there is another reason (not that one is nights devoted to various fi shing-related fi lms, videos, October know what they are doing. A pleasingly wide range of needed) to visit the stunning Lake Bohinj, one of our lectures and presentations, with a large festive cultural For details about fi shing in Bohinj including regulations, trails is available, whether you are a complete beginner favourite spots in the country, as this July (1st-5th) event (ie party) on the fi nal night.Qhotel tripič, tri- licence dealers, gear rental shops and much more check (like ourselves) or an experienced rider, and all run through it will play host to the European Canoe Marathon glavska 13, www.bohinj.si. www.bohinj.si or contact one of the local tourist offi ces. the natural splendour of Triglav National Park. Icelandic Championships. The placid waters of the glacial lake horses are the dominant breed here, although we also reflecting the mountains which surround it are the 19.09 Saturday paC spoRts fi nd Lipizzaner, Arabic and other mixed breeds.QStudor, perfect setting for a paddle (we’ve enjoyed feebly kRavji Bal The Pac Sports outdoor centre and agency is situated at tel. +386 (0)41 79 02 97, [email protected], www. rowing about it many times) though we’ll be happy The summer season in Slovenia’s alpine region offi cially Hostel Pod Voglom, and specialises in adventure and sport ranc-mrcina.com. to sit back and enjoy the festivities as the pros, ju- ends in mid-September with one of the country’s most holiday packages including such activities as paragliding, niors and seniors race on courses up to 30km long unique, if lesser known, festivals: the annual Kravji Bal, rafting, canyoning, trekking and free climbing to name but a with competitors also having to lug with their canoes or traditional Cow Ball. Held in Bohinj since 1954, the few. Their adrenaline park is an ideal choice for thrill-seeking kiDs overland. Qwww.bohinj.si/euro2015. event celebrates the return of local shepherds and their FaiRy laNd oF tHe goldHoRN cattle to the valley after a summer of grazing high up in Perfect for families with small kids, this trail runs through 01.07 WedneSday - 19.08. WedneSday the pastures of the Julian Alps. the breadth of Bohinj’s majestic nature. Meadows, streams Festival kaNal The festivities kick off on the third Saturday with the and lush greenery are traversed whilst learning about sev- Started back in 2005 to breathe life into Bohinj’s cul- Cheese and Wine Fest in Danica Hall (from moon to en fairy tales, all originating from Bohinj that will encourage tural scene, 11 years on Festival Kanal is still a shining midnight). Of course plenty of cheese and butter will the use of all your senses. We might be getting a little old light on the local calendar (1. 07 - 19. 08), bringing live be on hand for tasting, and the event is followed by a in the knees, but a wide range of movement is encouraged music to where there is normally little. Keep an eye Slovene folk dance party. On Sunday the main event throughout, so expect some jumping, walking, running out for the program, though if last year’s month and takes place in the village of Ukanc when the shepherds and rolling. Magical. a bit long festival, featuring more than 17 gigs from and cows make their triumphant return, much to the local and international acts, is anything to go by then delight of the thousands of onlookers. The all-day par- it’ll pay to spend even more time in Bohinj this sum- ty begins in the morning with folk music, brass bands, mer. The Coffee House Paviljon in Ribčev Laz hosts an accordion orchestra, folklore performances and all the festival with the stage actually located next to manner of other costumed revellers competing for the the café in an old drainage canal (problematic when eyes and ears of the crowd. Qkravjibal.bohinj-info. it rains). com

40 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 41 Bohinj Bohinj an wide range of Slovene wines. To cap it off the service from the town in 2010, but even more meaningful are rEstAurAnts is friendly and the prices are very reasonable - it makes the countless glowing comments left in their guest- Most visitors to Bohinj end up eating the majority of their for a very nice camp dinner indeed.Qtriglavska 60, book by visitors from around the world - many of whom meals at their hotel or guesthouse (which is usually not Bohinjska Bistrica, tel. +386 (0)4 575 16 19, gostilna. become familiar faces on return trips. Additional offers a bad option), but for those who wish to venture out in [email protected], www.camp-danica.si. open include a 20% discount at Bohinj Aquapark just across search of sustenance there are a handful of eateries in the 11:00 - 22:00. the street and half-board at the excellent restaurant villages around the lake, with the most options in Ribčev for only €5.Qi-7, triglavska 13, Bohinjska Bistrica, Laz at the lake’s southwest corner. gostilNa tRipič tel. +386 (0)4 828 01 20, [email protected], www. A top dining destination for both locals and visitors, the hotel-bohinj.si. THGKW gostilNa MiHovC Tripič inn is conveniently located in the centre of Bohin- This authentic family-run restaurant has been serving jska Bistrica, and during the warmer months the large Hostel pod vogloM up delicious local fare for more than a century. Located summer terrace is sure to be buzzing with happy diners. If you’ve come for an action-packed holiday, then this is in the centre of Stara Fužina, the restaurant is housed The menu features a wide selection of hearty traditional the place for you. Summers and winters are swarming in a traditional old Gorenjska-style house, the inte- Bohinj cuisine, such as veal stew with buckwheat and with adventure travelers, sports people and backpackers rior has the same rustic feeling - during winter grab a grilled homemade sausages with black pudding and that make use of its prime location along the southern table besides the central hearth whilst in summer the turnips, while house specialties include the Tripič plat- shore of the lake and numerous activities organised by courtyard is the place to be. The menu features a wide ter, turkey steak in cream sauce with fruit and of course ture and adventure. The camp is found just outside Bo- the hostel’s very own Pac sports centre. Rooms are of range of tasty local specialties and the lunch menus are fresh Bohinj trout - all of which are served in sizeable hinjska Bistrica and can accommodate over 800 guests the dormitory style, most with en suite shower and toi- great value.QStara Fužina 118, tel. +386 (0)51 81 18 portions. Stop by from 12:00 to 16:00 for the good value in tents, campers and caravans where you can find a lettes, but some having to share a clean common bath- 29, [email protected], www.gostilna-mihovc. daily set menus.Qi-7, triglavska 13, tel. +386 (0)4 828 range of fascinating on-site activities such as tennis, room.QX-7, ribčev Laz 60, tel. +386 (0)4 572 34 61, si. open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 01 20, fax +386 (0)4 828 01 24, [email protected], badminton, volleyball, and table-tennis, and there’s [email protected], www.hostel-podvoglom.com. 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. TILB www.hotel-bohinj.si. open 08:00 - 23:00. PT� also a large sports hall and aqua park the immediate THAULGB JAULEGBKX vicinity. The camp’s excellent set of amenities include gostilNa daNiCa a WiFi internet access point, bars and restaurants, a Located at the entrance to the camping grounds one supermarket, bakery, health centre, pharmacy, laundry might dismiss this place as a tourist trap but looks can Where to Stay service, bank and post office. Triglavska 60, +386 (0)4 be deceiving and behind Danica’s modest appearance CaMp daNiCa 572 17 02, [email protected], www.camp-danica.si- Much more info online at is a fi ne restaurant. As well as an outstanding à la carte The area around the mighty Triglav range is a fantastic TA6ULEKXCW bohinj.inyourpocket.com menu, the restaurant off ers excellent daily specials and spot for camp lovers, being directly at the foot of na- Hotel tRipič Providing warm and welcoming accommodation in Bohinj for nearly four decades, the family-run Tripič hotel can be found right in centre of Bohinjska Bistrica and offers a total of 17 spacious rooms, including many suites and family rooms. The friendly service and top- notch facilities were recognised with the Golden Award

Bohinj cheeSe

The Bohinj region has a long and rich history in the dairy industry stretching back to the 13th century. The ring of cow bells across the pastures can still be heard today as local alpine herdsmen continue this tradi- tion, producing award-winning dairy products with Bohinj cheeses being some of the best in the country. Hotel Tripič, run by family Tripič since 1986 Ask at local restaurants about the delicious fresh cot- Double rooms and duplex family rooms tage cheese ‘skuta’ as well as the EU recognised local Restaurant Tripič with pizzeria specialty Mohant - an interesting semi-soft cow’s milk Free internet, free big private parking cheese with a strong sharp fl avour. Local dairies also Fly-shing info, hiking info, cycling info produce an excellent Emmentaler style cheese known in Slovenia simply as Bohinjski Sir. Bohinj cheeses can Close to bus and train station be found in shops throughout Slovenia but if you’re in Open all year the area it’s worth dropping by the dairy for the freshest www.hotel-bohinj.si products. Bohinj’s dairy culture is celebrated annually at the traditional Kravji Bal festival, where herdsmen pa- rade their dairy queens through town - the festival is a Hotel Tripič, Triglavska cesta 13 phone: +386 (0)4 828 0120 cultural experience not to be missed. 4264 Bohinjska Bistrica e-mail: [email protected]

42 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 43 Žirovnica Žirovnica Beekeeping Path Slovenia’s love affair with the humble bee is well docu- where to stay mented, but it is in Žirovnica that we find the home of the Zima Rooms father of European apiculture, Anton Janša. His legacy lives When in Žirovnica, there aren’t many better accommodation on today with the Beekeeping Path, awarded the title of options than Zima Rooms. Close to the bus and train stations ‘Best Path in Slovenia’ in 2012. The trail will take you across with a pizzeria, bike rental and store all within spitting distance, the many fine bee-related sites in the area. Included in the you can’t ask for a superior location. The house itself has 30 fine trail is Janša’s birth house in Breznica, now reconstructed as years of tradition behind it and there is a whole lot to love. You a beehouse, as well as the breeding station of the Noč fam- can also stroll up to their log cabin for a picnic, where spectacu- ily in Završnica. Here you can see a practical presentation of lar views of Bled can be found. QŽirovnica 59a, tel. +386 (0)31 the art of bee breeding, as well as being given the chance to 63 24 86, [email protected], www.zima-sobe.si. purchase some fine honey products in the shop. The world has never been more appreciative of the hardworking bee, so it’s time to get educated! Anton Janša

Born in Breznica in1734, Anton Janša developed an where to eat interest in painting from a young age. He shared this Gostišče Osvald interest, or possibly established it, along with his two In little Žirovnica we find Gostišče Osvald, a restaurant brothers. Despite their illiteracy, they all packed up and full of tradition that has seen many years and sated many went off to Vienna to enrol at the engraving school appetites. Many of the house specialities bear the restau- there. Now, only one of the brothers would graduate Žirovnica’s history belies its size, as it was home to Prešeren, Čop and Janša. Not bad work at all! rant’s name, dishes created onsite that have evolved over and further their work in the art, but Anton would go the many years of its existence. Osvald is also the perfect on to make his name in a different field, that of bee- Located just a 10-minute drive north of Bled, Žirovnica sits Matija Čop and snakes its way for 6km through many place for celebrations, be they weddings, anniversaries or keeping. He was no stranger to bees. His family had in the picturesque foothills of Mt Stol, the highest peak in of the area's quaint villages taking in historically signifi- anything else in between, and when summer arrives the a history of beekeeping, and his father had over 500 the Karavanke Mountains. Known as the ‘cradle of Slovene cant houses and churches. The path is a pleasant walk lovely summer terrace adds to the atmosphere. QSelo hives at home. Discussions about beekeeping would culture’, it seems like every village in this clustered settle- or scoot around it on an electric bicycle available for pri Žirovnici 17, tel. +386 (0)51 74 95 37, korbar.ane8@ dominate talk at the tavern with all the local farmers. ment was home to an important historical figure of Slovene hire (reservation required) at the Žirovnica tourism of- gmail.com. By 1769 he had entered full time work as a beekeeper, literature and culture, most notably Dr France Prešeren from fice (located in Matija Čop’s birth house). Before setting and in what seems like something of a meteoric rise Vrba. The region is also well-known for its long history of off check at the tourism office about opening hours of he became the first royally appointed teacher of api- beekeeping which continues today, and the locally pro- museums on the route as many are open only by ap- HORSE RIDING culture for all of the Austrian-owned lands. duced honey and particularly honey liquor are definitely pointment. Zima Horse Riding worth sampling. The valleys and mountains surrounding The first sight is the birth house of Matija Čop, a linguist Just next to the accommodation of the same name, Zima Janša’s duties were fairly simple, but important none- Žirovnica are popular with hikers and mountain bikers. (speaking a staggering 19 languages!), writer and Slove- in the town of Žirovnica is the place to head for anyone theless. He kept the bees in the imperial gardens, but nia’s first librarian, as well as being a friend and mentor of interested in horses and riding. Its main function is of his main task was to travel around the land present- France Prešeren. From Žirovnica the path heads to Selo a horse riding school for beginners, be they adults or ing his bee observations, and he had plenty of them. what to see where you can catch magnificent views of the cliffs above children, but recreational outdoor riding is also available He came to change the size and shape of the hive, Dr France Prešeren’s Birth House the town, and the 15th-century fresco in the Church of St among other things. Those looking to complete their meaning they could be stacked upon each other like Most visitors to Slovenia first encounter Dr France Prešeren Cantianus is well worth viewing too. Horseman I and II exams should look no further too. It is blocks. He also used his experience as a painter and as an imposing bronze statue in the heart of Ljubljana, al- The next village is Breznica, birth place of Anton Janša also possible to take a ride with the traditional cart, the decorated the fronts of hives, which were previously though more than just being at the heart of the capital, an 18th-century artist and pioneer of modern beekeep- zapravljivček. It truly is a horse extravaganza!QŽirovnica bland and uninspiring. He would write two books in Prešeren is at the heart of Slovene identity and culture. De- ing, indeed the first teacher of beekeeping by royal de- 59a, tel. +386 (0)31 63 24 86, [email protected], German during his work at the court, entitled ‘Discus- scribed as the Shakespeare of Slovene literature, Prešeren’s cree. Whilst a reconstructed apiary sits in the place of the www.zima-sobe.si. sion in Beekeeping’ and ‘A Full Guide to Beekeeping’. poetry articulates the spirit of Slovenia and the Slovenes, original, a number of the original beehive panels painted His bee lectures were famous throughout the lands, and a stanza from his poem ‘A Toast’ is used as the lyrics for with traditional motifs are on display, and also make great and he popularised the method of smoking bees out the national anthem. Born in Vrba in 1800, his birth house souvenirs. of their hives for the honey. He would die in Vienna in has become a popular tourist destination. The next stop on the path is Doslovče, the smallest village 1773, of typhus. The house was built in the 16th century though its current in the region, though keeping with the way of Žirovnica it form dates from 1856 when it was rebuilt following a fire. too is the birth place of a significant Slovene author and His work was influential enough to be considered the Opened as a museum in 1939, Slovenia’s first protected playwright, Fran Saleški Finžgar. Those doing the path on only resource for those in the Austrian empire who cultural site continues to attract thousands of visitors an- foot will enjoy the walking trail from Doslovče and Rodine, studied apiculture following his death, and he is con- nually. Whilst it’s mainly Slovenes who make the pilgrim- which offers beautiful views of the country side and the sidered one of the fathers of European apiculture. The age here the museum offers all visitors a window into the Julian Alps. Rodine dates back to the 10th century and it 19th century saw further developments in apiculture, life and times of this literary master, with its collection of too has a museum dedicated to its famous local literary and although the 20th century would see us push 19th-century artefacts including Prešeren’s crib and an in- figure, author and playwright Janez Jalen. on our attempts to eradicate the bee, the art is still formative exhibition of the great man's life. The final village on the path is Vrba, and while Prešeren’s practiced today. Slovenia is the only country that offi- birth house is the star attraction, the more than 200 hun- cially protects its national bee no less, and Janša would Žirovnica Cultural Heritage Path dred year old linden tree (Slovenia’s national tree) and vil- probably be very happy with this fact. The cultural heritage path begins at the birth house of lage meeting place are also worth checking out. 44 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 45 Kranj Kranj growth during the medieval and renaissance periods, and home an extremely diverse collection of plants and animals, concludes with modern Slovenia's accession to the Euro- and has been a protected natural site since 1983. pean Union. The space of the castle's interior is used to For those who would like to explore the area themselves, maximum effect, and some interesting and novel cura- the most easily accessible public entrance is next to the torial approaches make a visit here both fascinating and bridge on Poštna Ulica, and the tourist office stocks a very informative. As such, the museum is great place to begin a information brochure that includes a maps as well as de- first trip to the region. tails about the areas flora and fauna, geological history and the milling industry that flourished here until the early Pungert Tower 20th century. During the summer months several rocky Occupying the southernmost edge of Kranj's old town, on beaches found along the riverbanks are popular destina- the promontory overlooking the confluence of the Kokra tion for swimmers or those just looking to escape the heat. and Sava rivers, is the city's only entirely preserved 16th- century defensive tower: Pungert. The distinctly German sounding name is derived from the German word for or- Tourist Information chard, baumgarten, which at one time grew here. Among other uses, over the centuries the tower has served as TIC Kranj residences and a prison, counting among its inmates the Set in a beautiful 16th-century townhouse right in the well-known local artist Leopold Layer, who was convicted centre of the old town, Kranj’s tourist information cen- of forging currency. To round out the already wonderful tre is the most logical first stop for most visitors to the atmosphere, there's also an old music school right next city. In addition to countless brochures in a variety of door whose pupils provide a pleasant (if sometimes off-key) languages covering everything in Kranj and elsewhere soundtrack. in the Gorenjska region (several of which can even be downloaded directly from their website), there’s free Slovenia’s third largest city, Kranj is a stone’s throw from Ljubljana. Photo by Luka Dakskobler Kokra River Canyon internet, a fine selection of gifts and souvenirs, a small While most visitors admire Kranj for the breathtaking pan- gallery with contemporary art exhibitions and bicycle Perched on a rocky promontory at the confluence of the entrance at Jelenov Klanec, an east entrance in Kokra Can- oramic views of the mountains to the north, the first inhab- hires for €2 per hour or only €5 for the whole day. Ar- Sava and Kokra rivers, the old town of Kranj has one of the yon and a southern entrance below Pungert - there is also itants chose to settle here not for its natural beauty, but for rangements can also be made for a tour with an expe- most spectacular medieval skylines that you'll likely ever a 'secret' entrance above ground behind Prešeren Theatre. the more practical reason that the 30m deep gorge immedi- rienced local guide. QGlavni trg 2, tel +386 (0)4 238 see, with its three distinct church towers and an unreal Following the war the tunnels were largely forgotten ately to the east provided a significant defensive advantage. 04 50, +386 (0)4 238 04 51, [email protected], www. backdrop of the Slovenian Alps rising up only a few kilo- about and fell into a state of disuse, although during the Carved into the colourful conglomerate sedimentary rock at tourism-kranj.si. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00 metres to the north. Not as well-known as Bled or as heav- 1980s one enterprising local restauranteur used a large the end of the most recent ice age, the lush green canyon is ily trodden by tourists on Kranjska Gora, in most senses section of them to grow his own supply of mushrooms. of the word Kranj is still the true capital of the Gorenjska Due to the waste produced by this subterranean agricul- region, both historically speaking and nowadays, as it has ture as well as the more than half a century of general long-served as one of the main industrial centres of Slove- neglect, the tunnels were in rather poor condition at the nia and is also the country's third largest city. end of the 20th century. Recognising that they are an im- It's Kranj's historic centre that is the main draw for most portant piece of the country's historical and technologi- tourists and daytrippers. Protected as a national cultural cal heritage, in 2003 the Caving Society of Kranj decided monument since 1983, the lively old town boasts an va- to take the initiative of cleaning them up, and were later riety of diverse sights, from religious monuments and joined by the city and other organisations, with the exten- ethnological museums to modern arts spaces and unique sive restoration works finally completed and the tunnels remnants from World War II. For most Slovenes the city is opened to the public in 2008. inextricably linked with the nation's greatest poet, France Prešeren, who lived and worked here in the mid-19th cen- Khislstein Castle & The Museum of Gore- tury. njska A key element of Kranj's magnificent medieval skyline and quite literally an inseparable part of the town (as the Essential Kranj complex's lower section forms part of the defensive walls), Khislstein Castle derives both its name and Renaissance The Tunnels Under Kranj appearance from its 16th-century owner Janez Khisl. The One of the most unique attractions in the Gorenjska re- castle and its grounds were extensively renovated in 2012, gion is the WWII-era tunnel complex that runs for 1.3km when the open-air summer theatre was built and the Mu- under the heart of Kranj's old town and was built to serve seum of Gorenjska's central exhibition was opened on the as a bomb shelter. Construction commenced in the late- premises. 1930s in anticipation of he conflict, but most of what exists Titled Beautiful Gorenjska, the comprehensive and ex- today was carried out by occupying forces in 1944, as they tremely well-presented exhibition leads visitors on a jour- feared Kranj would be targeted by Allied bombing due ney from the geological formation of the region millions to its strategic location and strong industrial output. The of years ago, through prehistoric settlements, the arrival of complex crosss directly under the old town with a western Slavic tribes, development of Slovenes as a distinct people, Explore the mysterious tunnels underneath Kranj. Photo by Bojan Okorn. 46 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket 2015 47 Postojna

postojna a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well- deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable. This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the Park ka 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather proficient robber baron throughout Habsburg POSTOJNS empire. It is said that in 1483, Erazem fled to the castle from Vienna after killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army Ma who had insulted one of his friends, which brought about a the wrath of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who laid NTure siege to the castle. However, thanks to a secret cave lead- J aDve Postojna Cave ing from the bowels of Predjama to Postojna Cave and ifiCeNT The largest cave in the karst region and most visited then on to the nearby village of Vipava, Erazem was able MagN show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly to secure an steady supply of fresh food and water. Un- do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20 fortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was be- kilometres of galleries have been found, of which barely trayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as the years that followed, the castle was destroyed and re- you make your way through the most spectacular parts built several times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in of the cave, at first by a dinky little narrow-gauge train, 1570, which has remained virtually unchanged to this day. and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with lim- a museum. It has been completely restored to its original ited mobility should not have any difficulties. grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the resi- Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave dential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It was discovered in the 13th century, though never proper- is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, ly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist although some climbing and a minimal level of fitness, attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among especially for scaling the narrow 37m Erazem’s Passage, the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become is strongly encouraged if not required. During July each that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before summer the castle and its grounds also host one of the such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself. region’s largest medieval festivals, known as the Erasmus Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites Knight’s Tournament after the castle’s most famous occu- and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, pant. For more information see the official website. Descend into the kingdom which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the tem- of One of the Most Beautiful Natural perature of the cave is a chilly 10 degrees Centigrade, so Wonders bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subter- Postojna Cave is without a doubt one of the most ranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can sometimes – though not always – be seen in some of beautiful creations of nature. Take a ride around the the pools of water as you make your way around the cave. world full of wonders, stretching along thousands of Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and meters of underground passages, which reveal truly if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any pho- tos. You will be well and truly told off if you do. unique splendours, mood and authenticity of nature Postojna is about 30 minutes by car from Ljubljana, or created to be admired. Combined with Predjama you can take any train/bus heading for the coast. For Castle, the cave offers two world-famous attractions, more information see the official website. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel/fax. +386 (0)700 01 00, info@postojnska- jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama. which together with the surrounding area create an Predjama Castle eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours unforgettable full-day experience for visitors of any age. Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s at 10:00, 12:00, 15:00, in Apr and Oct 10:00, 12:00, finest castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, 14:00, 16:00, in May and June hourly 09:00 - 17:00, in Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, Ger- July and Aug hourly 09:00 - 18:00. Castle - Open every www.postojnska-jama.eu man and Italian respectively), was built in a Gothic style day, all year. From Nov to March open from 10:00 to by the Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th 16:00, in April and Oct from 10:00 to 17:00, in May, century and first mentioned in the historical record in June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00, during July and the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up Aug from 9:00 to 19:00.

48 Bled In Your Pocket bled.inyourpocket.com Škrlatica KARAVANKE Stol Mangart Jalovec Mojstrovka Prisojnik Razor 2738 m 2678 m 2366 m 2547 m Belščica 2236 m 2643 m 2601 m Kukova špica Golica Struška N 2417 m Sleme 1835 m Bavški Grintavec 2076 m 2344 m Triglav 2864 m Rjavina Pogačnikov dom 2532 m Kanjavec 2568 m VRATA Malo Špičje KOT Debela peč ZGORNJESAVSKA DOLINA Kredarica Lipanski vrh 2015 m Plaski Vogel 2312 m KRMA Mojstrana 1983 m 2348 m Zasavska koča Dolič Dom Planika T R E N T A Tosc V. Draški vrh Mrežce Debeli vrh 2275 m 2243 m 2390 m Viševnik MEŽAKLA 2050 m Vršac JULIJSKE ALPE Sleme 2004 m PL. LIPANCA PL. KLEK 2234 m PL. VELO POLJE Vodnikov dom OGRADI V i š e v n i k O K L J U K V. Tičarica P A Kal DOLINA TRIGLAVSKIH2091 JEZERm 2001 m N I PL. KONJŠČICA Mrzli Studenec O D Rudno Polje PL. JAVORNIK ZGORNJA KOMNA Koča pri R Triglavskih PL. KRSTENICA jezerih A Športni center P Triglav Pokljuka Goreljek PL. LOPUČNICA Rušnata glava PL. V LAZU N A 1899 m R 1250 m barje/ K peat bog Goreljek PL. DEDNO POLJE PL. PRI JEZERU slap/ PL. OVČARIJA PL. BLATO waterfall U S K O V N IC A Stadorski Orliči Vodični vrh Mostnica PL. PRAPROTNICA GORJUŠE 1782 m PL. VIŠEVNIK 1621 m LOPUČNIŠKA DOLINA 1624 m PL. KONJSKA DOLINA Najdenje PL. NA KALU Stador PL. VODIČNI VRH sv. Križa 1688 m PL. POKROVEC E J O V KOPRIVNIK PL. ZAJAMNIKI Vodnikov razglednik PL. HEBED Pršivec PL. VOGAR slap/ PODJELJE I 1761 m waterfall PL. NA ŠEHU K Kropa Črno Kamen PL. JAVORNICA S jezero 1030 m kanjon/gorge Mostnica V slapovi Ribnice/ A PL. BLATCA Ribnica waterfalls sv. Marjeta Studor Ribnica L E P A K O M N A L 1002 m Peči L J U B L J A N A G Zakraj JEREKA 828 m B L E D slap/ I waterfall Savica BOH. ČEŠNJICA SREDNJA VAS Dunaj NOMENJ R slap/ STUDOR waterfall Blato Dom Savica sv. Pavel T Govic Srenjsko polje Suha NAD JEZEROM Šavnica Koča pod Bogatinom STARA FUŽINA 863 m Ribnica Rudnica Jerečica PL. NA KRAJU 946 m Hemin plavž S e n o ž e t a LOG slap/ Savica Z a L a z m i BOHINJSKO JEZERO waterfall Grmečica Dom na Komni 5 2 3 m Peč BITNJE 719 m SPODNJA KOMNA UKANŠKA SUHA Blato Sava Bohinjka K r e m e n j e k J sv. Magdalena LEPENCE E sv. Duh sv. Janez cerkev Marijinega Grmečica UKANC NAKLO Krstnik RIBČEV LAZ vnebovzetja L PL. GOVNJAČ BROD O Pod ŠčavnikomBOHINJSKA BISTRICA Ajdovski V SKI CENTER SAVICA Sava Bohinjka gradec ŽAGARJEV GRABEN VOGEL I sv. Nikolaj KAMNJE C D o b r a v a Konta Gosti les A Bohinjski Migovec Kratki plaz POLJE sv. Ahac 1730 m LAŠKI ROVT Suha NEMŠKI ROVT Tolminski Kuk Bistrica ŽLAN Pozabljeno Belca 2085 m Podrta gora 2061 m Škrbina 1910 m PL. ZADNJI VOGEL izvir Bistrice/ Bistrica stream Lisec BAREČA DOLINA 1653 m Rušnati vrh spring RAVNE Orožnova koča 1915 m PL. SUHA Črna gora Poljanski vrh Konjski vrh Kozji rob Črna prst 1606 m Vogel Šija 1897 m 1879 m 1844 m Tolminski Migovec 1922 m 1880 m Rodica Veliki Raskovec S O R I Š K A P L A N I N A 1881 m Čez Suho 1966 m 1967 m Dom Zorka 1773 m Jelinčiča Ž E L E Z N I K I

PL. RAZOR Kobla 1499 m Na Kale Koča na pl. Razor

PL. NA KALU

LEGENDA / KEY turist. informacije / tourist information naravna znamenitost / natural attraction železniška postaja / train station trgovina / shop jahanje / horse riding restavracija / restaurant Info center Triglavskega narodnega parka/ razgledna točka / viewpoint avtovlak / car train tenis / tennis Triglav National Park Information Centre smučišče / ski slopes parkirni prostor / parking pošta / post office odbojka na mivki / beach volleball ...... nastanitve / accomodation sedežnica / ski lift avtomehanična delavnica / car service banka, menjalnica / bank, exchange office vodni park / aquapark kamp / campsite kabinska žičnica / cable car bencinski servis / gas station bankomat /  kolesarska pot Bohinj / Bohinj cycling route planinska koča / mountain hut turistična ladja / tourist boat sakralni objekt / church zdravstveni dom / health clinic kolesarski servis / bike service Občina Bohinj RUNNER-UP 2010 pohodniška pot / hiking trail avtobusna postaja / bus station muzej / museum lekarna / pharmacy adrenalinski park / high ropes course ...... Informacije / information: Turizem (TIC) Bohinj, Info točka Triglavskega narodnega parka Info center Bohinj, Ribčev Laz 48, 4265 Bohinjsko jezero Triglav National Park info point, Triglavska cesta 30, 4264 Boh. Bistrica t: +386 (0)4 574 60 10, f: +386 (0)4 572 33 30 t: +386 (0)4 574 75 90, f: +386 (0)4 574 75 91, e: [email protected], www.bohinj.si e: info@bohinj–info.com, www.bohinj–info.com www.bohinj.si BLED CASTLE

+386 4 5729 782, www.bled-castle.si, [email protected], FB: /BledCastle