David Baker photo

the of the Big Sandy River

Obie Williams photo

22 22 Kentucky Afield Afield Summer Summer 2018 2018 fw.ky.govfw.ky.gov Paddling the eastern borderlands in search of big fish and rich history By Lee McClellan

Obie Williams photo

he violent collisions The first riffle downstream of the Hatfield- 9-inch muskellunge in partnership with between Earth’s tectonic plates and McCoy Park is the longest of the float. West . Each state will contribute Tthe resulting uplifts that formed the 195 fish,” Dreves said. “We intend to keep southern Appalachians in Kentucky find any found in Kentucky. doing this through 2021.” their most stark and dramatic relief in east- “The smallmouth bass in the Tug Fork ernmost Pike County. The nearly vertical are one of its most popular fish and doing Water Flow Matters mountains and narrow valleys provide vistas very well,” said Kevin Frey, Eastern Fisher- Two floats showcase the history and as arresting as any in the state. ies District biologist for the Kentucky De- beauty of the Tug Fork Valley. One is a short The Tug Fork of Big Sandy River, partment of Fish and Wildlife Resources. but productive journey through the heart which forms part of the boundary between “The fishery continues to improve from the of the Hatfield-McCoy feud country. The Kentucky and , flows through late 1980s.” other is a longer voyage featuring excellent this maze of steep ridges. The Tug carries Fisheries crews used to find 10-15 scenery and smallmouth bass fishing. in its waters healthy smallmouth bass, large smallmouth bass per hour while doing Paddlers must consult the weather flathead catfish and the detritus of long- population sampling there. “Now, we aver- forecast before heading out. Runoff from term human habitation of the valley. The age 50 fish per hour,” Frey said. “The size the steep mountains of the headwaters can ruggedness of the Tug Fork Valley rubbed distribution is really good. We have small- turn the normally placid river into a muddy, off on its settlers; this is a land of notori- mouths in the 21- to 22-inch range on the foamy froth in a matter of hours. ous family feuds, rugged individualism and larger end. We have plenty of 3- to 4-pound “You’ll do better if the Tug is clear, so labor conflicts. fish to go after.” you can pinpoint where to cast and fish,” It’s fitting that even the name of the riv- Muskellunge will be another top shelf Frey said. er derives from the toughness of its people. predator for Tug Fork anglers to pursue in Finding the flow’s sweet spot for pro- In the winter of 1756, early in the French the coming years due to a joint stocking ef- ductive fishing and enjoyable floating is the and Indian War, a group of Virginia soldiers fort between the West Virginia Department key for paddling the Tug. Go online to the returning home followed the North Fork of of Natural Resources and Kentucky Fish Williamson gauge on the “Sandy Creek.” Their stomachs empty for and Wildlife. Geological Survey streamflow webpage to days, they boiled, then ate the leather straps, Dave Dreves, assistant director of fish- find the latest information. Flows of 200 to or “tugs,” that they used to tie gear to their eries for Kentucky Fish and Wildlife, said 700 cfs (cubic feet a second) offer the best packs. They also drank the “tug” soup in an the department stocked 100 muskellunge conditions for paddling and fishing. Pad- effort to avoid starvation. measuring 13 inches in May 2017, along dlers will likely need to walk their boats Afterward, soldiers began calling the with 25,000 muskie fry at Hatfield-McCoy over drops and shallow shoals if flows are river Tug Fork. Park in McCarr. A similar stocking oc- lower. The Tug’s mild drops are perfect The river wears a long history of human curred at Burnwell while for families, beginners and inter-

exploitation of the valley’s timber and coal the river near South Wil- mediate paddlers. resources. It is scarred, but not defeated, liamson received 190 of

and in the process of healing. Water quality the larger muskellunge, Hatfield-McCoy in the Tug Fork has dramatically improved along with 52,300 fry. Park to during the past few decades. It now supports “This year, in late “ The first float begins at a population of smallmouth bass that rivals summer, we are going to stock the Hatfield-McCoy Park in the McCarr community in Pike County. It ends about three miles downstream at a public This is a land of notorious family feuds, ramp in Matewan, West Virginia. rugged individualism and labor conflicts. To reach the Hatfield-McCoy Park, take U.S. 119 east from Pikeville for ap- proximately 23 miles. Turn right onto “fw.ky.gov Summer 2018 Kentucky Afield 23 Obie Williams photo

KY 319 for 7 miles then left (east) on KY its southern fringes awaits the site of the The Matewan floodwall illustrates 1056 for 3 miles. The parking lot for the Randolph McCoy Cabin. Here, an attack significant events in the town’s history. launch lies just after the playground and by nine members of the Hatfield family on paved walking path at Hatfield-McCoy Jan. 1, 1888, resulted in the deaths of two tied to trees and shot. Park. of Randolph McCoy’s children. The attack After putting in at Hatfield-McCoy Paddlers will need to leave a shuttle ve- also severely injured McCoy’s wife, Sally. Park, this short float gives anglers time to hicle at the take-out, located across the state Just down from the junction of KY 319 paddle upstream past the old railroad bridge line and a few miles away. To reach the take- and KY 1056 stands the cabin of the Rev. and fish the long hole back to the launch. out, take KY 1056 across the Tug into West Anderson “Preacher Anse” Hatfield, who Anglers should fish the rocky mouth of Virginia. After 1 mile, turn left onto WV 49 served as a justice of the peace. This is the Blackberry Creek with a 3-inch, electric at the T-intersection. After 2 miles, look for site of the Hog Trial, in which Randall Mc- blue swimbait. This imitates some of the na- a tennis court and playground on the left. A Coy accused Floyd Hatfield of stealing a tive shiners that smallmouth bass favor. road beside the tennis court leads you to the hog. McCoy’s loss at the trial intensified the Local anglers say this hole holds flat- take out. feud between the families. head catfish topping 20 pounds. “The cat- The route to the put-in is steeped with Also near the cabin is the site of the fish in the Tug are phenomenal, both chan- the history of the Hatfield-McCoy feud, a “Election Day Fight” in early August 1882. nel and flathead catfish,” Frey said. “When murderous conflict between two families Tolbert McCoy jumped Elias Hatfield, the we electroshock the river during population that lasted nearly three decades. brother of “Preacher Anse” Hatfield, over sampling, the channels are so thick you The drive, followed by the float down $1.75 owed Tolbert from the sale of a fiddle. could practically walk across the river on the river, touches many significant sites of Family member Ellison Hatfield joined the them. There are plenty of numbers of chan- America’s most notorious feud. A little his- fight. Tolbert, along with two of his broth- nels from 16 to 24 inches, prime eating size.” tory helps paddlers understand the under- ers, stabbed Ellison 26 times then shot him Target flatheads in rocky areas with live pinnings of the conflict along the way. for good measure. Ellison died two days bait such as shiners, bluegill and green sun- Driving on KY 319 brings travel- later, leading to the famous “Paw Paw In- fish on a slip-sinker rig. Anglers have good ers through the coal town of Hardy. On cident” in which the McCoy brothers were motivation to try this kind of fishing. “We

24 Kentucky Afield Summer 2018 fw.ky.gov Randolph Mccccoy “Devil” Anse Hatfield Patriarch of the McCoy Clan Patriarch of the Hatfield Clan

regularly see flatheads above 30 pounds, and up to 45 pounds or so,” Frey said. Good smallmouth bass fishing begins at the first drop downstream of the launch. Cast a beaver-style creature bait in hues of green pumpkin and blue in the flowing wa- ter just above the drop. A 1/8-ounce, green pumpkin or black skirted double-tailed grub also works well here. Randolph Mccccoy “Devil Anse” Hatfield Paddlers negotiating the braided wa- Patriarch of the McCoy Clan Patriarch of the Hatfield Clan ter just downstream of the launch should take the chute on river left. What follows Photos courtesy www.tourpikecounty.com are a series of mild riffles bordered by -wa volatile country ter willows that hold smallmouth bass. This The dramatic events that unfolded during the Hatfield and McCoy feud have is a good place to work a black, 4-inch fi- become part of Kentucky’s lush historical tapestry. Landmarks highlighting violent nesse worm rigged on a 1/8-ounce jig. Black confrontations between the two families are scattered throughout eastern Pike is a productive color for smallmouth bass in County. Many are open to the public. summer and fall. The Tug next flows over a long shoal before taking a hard left. Shoals like this are good spots to work medium-running, crawfish-colored crankbaits. Paddlers soon will see the Matewan floodwall in the distance. The wall features murals of the Hatfield-McCoy feud, the labor dispute and moun- tain scenes. The flat on the left of the bend is the site of the Paw-Paw Incident. After Ellison Hatfield’s murder by three McCoy brothers, a posse lead by “Devil Anse” Hatfield, the cousin of “Preacher Anse” Hatfield, cap- tured the trio. They tied the McCoy broth- ers to the bankside paw paw trees and shot them. The bank below this area is a good place for anglers to beach their boats and fish. Work the current above and below the rapids at the floodwall with an electric blue swimbait for smallmouth bass. FEUD destinations The Tug deepens with a rocky bank on (Above) The Randolph McCoy cabin, and site of the famous hog trial, can be river right after flowing underneath the KY photo Williams Obie accessed off of KY 319, just before its intersection with KY 1056. (Below) The site 1056 bridge. “This stretch of river is known of the Paw Paw Incident, where the lives of three McCoys were taken by a posse for big flathead catfish,” Frey said. “There led by “Devil Anse” Hatfield, is now a public park in Buskirk, Kentucky. It can be are also some big channel cats through there accessed via KY 1056 between McCarr, Kentucky and Matewan, West Virginia, as well.” and can also be seen while floating the Tug Fork (see map for exact location). At the end of the deep hole, the river constricts and flows over a riffle before -dis appearing around a hard right bend. The drop downstream of the bend offers some of the best smallmouth bass water on this float. Creature baits fished along current seams draw strikes here. This is also a good place to fish a swimbait. It’s worth it to pull Obie Williams photo over and wade fish here. TheT ug then flows through deeper wa- ter that holds flathead catfish. Target the fw.ky.gov SummerSummer 20182018 KentuckyKentucky Afield Afield 2525 BOWLING GREEN

9007 £68 £231

2629

Phil Moore " Park (P2)

WARREN Phil Moore COUNTY 622 " Park (P1)

£31W 884 65 " 961 242

KY 240 Road Access WOODBURN KY 622 " " Road Access " BOWLING GREEN KY 240 240 Road Access

9007 68 " £ 231 240 £ ALLEN Sadler Ford/Clay Goodrum Road " 2629 Starks Road Access Road Access £231 COUNTY " Phil Moore " " Park (P2) WARREN Phil Moore 622 Woody Atkinson " Park (P1) Road Access COUNTY

£31W 884 65 " 961 3241 1434 242

1171 KY 240 Road Access WOODBURN 1332 KY 622 " " Road Access 585 " 1008 SIMPSON KY 240 240 Road Access " Ditmore Ford COUNTY " Road Access 240 ALLEN Goodrum Road 2601 Sadler Ford/Clay " Starks Road Access Road Access FRANKLIN £231 COUNTY ! 622 " " Woody Atkinson Road Access 100 BOWLING GREEN

1434 3241 9007 £68 £231

1171 2629

1332

Phil Moore 585 1008 SIMPSON " Park (P2) Ditmore Ford WARREN" COUNTYPhil Moore Road Access 622 " Park (P1) 2601 COUNTY FRANKLIN ! 622

£31W 884 Double train bridge 65 961 100 " to take out 242 .85 miles er KY 240 iv R Road Access dy WOODBURN an KY 622 " " ig S Road Access B " the KY 240 Tug Fork f o 01.5 240 34.5 6 Matewan k Road Access or Miles Ramp F WEST VIRGINIA ! " g 240 McCarr to Matewan u ALLEN T 49 Sadler Ford/Clay " Goodrum Road37.63644 Starks Road Access Road Access-82.173584 £231 COUNTY Double " Double train bridge KY/WV border train "to take out Highway bridge Woody Atkinson MATEWAN .85Road Access miles Train tracks 1056 bridge er to double train iv bridge 01y.5 R 34.5 6 1434 d 3241 Double an Miles Carry down access train g S ! 1.25 miles 1056 Bi bridge he Paw Paw f t 1171 k o Incident or F 1332 ug T 49 585 1008 SIMPSON WEST VIRGINIA BUSKIRK Ditmore Ford Put in to " Road Access COUNTY 1056 bridge 2601 1056 bridge FRANKLIN 1 mile ! 622 to double train MATEWAN bridge 1.25 miles 65 100 1056 Paw Paw Incident 1056 49 McCARR Old BUSKIRK railroad Put in to bridge ndy River ig Sa 1056 bridge he B of t Obie Williams photo ork 1 mile KENTUCKY Tug F KENTUCKY1056 the scenery and paddling through the many long, tranquil deep holes in this stretch of water. McCARR 49 The first bend downstream of the Mate- Old railroad wan access features gravel bars and flowing 01.5 34.5 Hatfield-McCoy6 bridge ndy River shoals that hold smallmouth bass. This bend ParkMile Ramps ig Sa ! he B of t forms a horseshoe, with opportunities for ork 37.610924 Tug F -82.169801 anglers to beach their boats and thoroughly fish the gravel bars with a green pumpkin, Blackberry Creek 3/16-ounce, double-tailed skirted grub, or an electric blue swimbait. 0 .5 1 Miles Paddlers next encounter a straight stretch of medium-depth water. Paddlers will pass under a golf course bridge and a railroad bridge. After a third bridge, the rocky areas and woody cover for these rug- head catfish territory. Tug bends left and into the float’s best ged fighters. The take-out on river right is easy to smallmouth bass water. Anglers should Soon, paddlers will see the double miss. Watch out for broken glass around the pound gravel bars downstream of the bend bridge of the Norfolk Southern Railroad. access. with their skirted grub. 0 .5 1 The Tug constricts and increases its velocity The Tug takes a hard right and flows Miles here. The substrate also grows rocky: prime Matewan to Williamson/South over a deep, aquamarine hole. A long gravel smallmouth bass habitat. Williamson bar lies on river left. This is Burnwell Beach. “The area around the railroad bridge The second float begins at the Matewan Aside from stopping to admire its ar- is known for rock bass and big smallmouth access. Paddlers can end their trip after 10 resting mountain views, the beach is a good bass,” Frey said. miles at Williamson, West Virginia, or go place to pull over and wade the shallower, Wade fish the rock bar downstream of another 2 miles to the concrete boat ramp flowing shoal to cast for hefty smallmouth the bridge thoroughly. Drift a black finesse in South Williamson, Kentucky. Paddlers bass. worm in the current, letting it gently touch should be on the water early and prepared Shoals and stream drops grow infre- the bottom occasionally. to leave late due to the length of this float. quent downstream of Burnwell Beach as the The river then bends gently left and This deeper float features more pad- river transitions to long holes and tranquil flows over two small drops that hold small- dling than fishing. Wise anglers should waters. Anglers should paddle through this mouth bass. It soon gains depth with some concentrate on the flowing water upstream section until the river bends hard left and rocky banks on the outside bend, prime flat- and downstream of stream drops and enjoy braids.

26 Kentucky Afield Summer 2018 fw.ky.gov BOWLING GREEN BOWLING GREEN

9007 £68 £231

9007 68 £ £231 2629

2629 Phil Moore " Park (P2) (Left)Phil Moore Smallmouth bass in the Tug are WARREN" Park (P2) Phil Moore a mile to reach a concrete boat 622 " Park (P1) WARREN abundantPhil Moore in size and numbers. (Right) COUNTY622 " Park (P1) ramp in South Williamson, COUNTY The low head dam in Williamson must be Kentucky. The ramp on river £31W 884 portaged65 around. A distinct metal wall " 961 left, just downstream of a hard £31W 884 242 65 marks" the dam’s location. 961 242 right bend and deep hole.

KY 240 Vehicles for this shuttle Road Access BOWLING GREEN WOODBURNKY 240 Here, rocky bars hold smallmouth bass. should continue on WV 49 Road Access KY 622 " " Road Access 9007 WOODBURN KY 622 Probe these areas" with the skirted grub68 and from the Matewan access. The " £ 231 " KY 240 £ Road Access 240 Road Access BOWLING GREEN " the finesse worm. In late summer and fall, 2629 road follows the river for ap- KY 240 240 " Road Access 240 let these lures rest on the bottom and let the ALLEN Phil Moore proximately 9½ miles. Turn left Goodrum Road Sadler Ford/Clay 9007 " " 68 " Park (P2) 240 Road Access £ 231 Starks Road Access current flutter them. SmallmouthALLEN bass often onto£ U.S. 52 and continue for Sadler Ford/Clay Goodrum Road WARREN£231 COUNTY Phil Moore " 622 Road Access " Park (P1) 2629 Starks Road Access " cannot resist this presentation. two miles. Turn left onto Har- " " £231 COUNTY COUNTY Lee McClellan photo Phil Moore WoodyThe Atkinson next mile or so features some of this vey Street and cross the river 31W " Park (P2) " £ 884 Road Access 65 " 961 Woody Atkinson section’s infrequent shoals rimmed with wa- Anglers242 may park behind WARRENthe water into Kentucky. Cross U.SPhil. 119 Moore and continue Road Access 622 " Park (P1) ter willow. Work a 3-inch, sexy shad-colored plant and carry their boats out viaCOUNTY a path on Second Street. Turn left onto Central 1434 3241 KY 240 swimbait in the deep flowing water near the behind a metal retainingRoad Access wall upstream of Avenue (KY 292) for slightly more than 1434 3241 WOODBURN 31W KY 622 " £ 884 " shoals, and along the water willow beds. the dam. Paddlers may also portage on ei- half65 a mile then turn right, before restau- 961 1171 Road Access " " 242 KY 240 The Tug flows gently until a railroad1332 ther240 side of the dam. Local anglers reportRoad Accessrant. Look for a small white sign marking 1171

585 " 1332 240 1008 SIMPSONbridge appears in the distance, followed by catches of hefty smallmouth bass in excess the entrance.ALLEN Sadler Ford/Clay " Goodrum Road KY 240 585 Starks Road Access Road Access 1008 SIMPSONDitmore Ford Road Access " the U.S. 119 Bridge. Paddlers must pre- of three pounds below the dam. £231 TheCOUNTY Tug Fork combines history, scen- Road Access COUNTY " WOODBURN Ditmore Ford KY 622 " " " COUNTY pare for a2601 dangerous low head dam awaiting For this shuttle, continue on WV 49 ery Roadand Access excellent fishing in the eastern most Road Access " " FRANKLIN KY 240 ! 2601 622 Woody Atkinson them a few hundred yards upstream of the from the Matewan access. The road follows240 section of Kentucky. It is worth the Roaddrive Access to ! FRANKLIN Road Access Dam to take out n 622 highway bridge. the river for approximately 9½ miles. Turn this incredibly scenic cornerWEST of the state." 240 ALLEN Goodrum Road Sadler Ford/Clay 3241 100 1434 1.5 miles " This dam was created in the 1980s to left onto U.S. 52 and continueStarks Road for Access two miles. Road Access Learn more about the Hatfield-McCoy£ 231 COUNTY 100 VIRGINIA serve the water treatment plant of Wil- Turn left onto Vinson Street, "then an im- WILLIAMSON 1171 "Feud and more of what Pike County52 has liamson, West Virginia. Local officials are mediate left onto East Third Avenue to1332 the Woody Atkinson 585 to offer online at tourpikecounty.com, or call studying ways to make the passage1008 safer as parkingSIMPSON area. 292 Road Access Low head dam " Ditmore Ford COUNTY (606) 432-5063. they create a water trail for the Tug Fork.Road Access Boaters also may paddle for more than Burnwell Beach 2601 1434 to dam 3241 ! FRANKLIN 612 622 SOUTH WILLIAMSON 5.5 miles 1171

100 Dam to take out 52 1332 WEST TugRailroad Fork 292 585 1008 SIMPSONbridge 1.5 miles 49 Ditmore Ford Matewan119 to VIRGINIA" Road Access COUNTY WILLIAMSON 52 2601 FRANKLINSouth Williamson ! 622 292 Low head dam Williamson KY/WV border Burnwell Beach 01.5 34.5 6 Take Out 100 Miles to dam Highway 01.5 34.5 612 6 (Water! Plant) Miles SOUTH US Highway !WILLIAMSON 37.669468, 5.5 miles Matewan put in to -82.275451 South Train tracks Burnwell Beach 49 52 Williamson 292 Railroad Low head dam 49 5.1 miles Ramp bridge 49 119 119 KENTUCKY Golf Railroad 37.668899 01.5 34.5 6 Carry down access course bridge -82.290783 Miles ! bridge Burnwell Beach 319 49 r Tug ve Fork Ri of t y he Big Sand MATEWAN

Matewan put in to Burnwell Beach 49

49 5.1 miles 119 01.5 34.5 6 Matewan 49 KENTUCKY Golf RailroadMiles course bridge Ramp! bridge Burnwell 37.63644 Beach -82.173584 319 49 r Tug ve Fork Ri of t y he Big Sand MATEWAN 0 .5 1 2 Miles

Obie Williams maps

49 fw.ky.gov Summer 2018 Kentucky Afield 27

0 .5 1 2 Miles