Last Mark 1930 Clothes Century MARY ---Ily MARSHALL------MAIN REQUIREMENT IS NEW MODE SHOWS FUSSY THAT THEY SHOULD BE DETAILS WOMEN THOUGHT FULL OF ELABORATION THEY WEKZ WELL HID OF

wide at the elbow, sleeves wide above the is a season when we do all sorts of things that we elbow and sleeves wide below the elbow. Sleeves with THISvowed we would never do again. We are wearing our and ankles long, tight cuffs, sleeves with flounces near the shoulder, evening that dangle round insteps sleeves with we never would do that. We are flounces or ruffles near the wrists. Leg o‘ —and most of us vowed imtrtton sleeves. Bishop sleeves, Angel sleeves, Dolman wearing troublesome lingerie collars and cuffs and vestees ’Cieeres. Evening dresses with long sleeves and daytime that have to be taken out and washed or sent to the cleaners C°ats with elbow sleeves. and then fussily sewed in again—and we at least hoped we This is indeed a never to do that And if wc are season of varied arm coverings and there would have again. very up to date we are or even of the nineteenth century that has wearing long lace-cdged slips petti- ®Ocbecn tried coats with our and afternoon dresses—a by some important French dressmaker or long evening thing another in this that most women considered out of the thirtieth year of the twentieth century. When definitely question recall the a few seasons fact that the fashion history of the last centurv ago. ;Was marked by a continuous series of revivals of all the The new long are most amusing, because they *omantic of are so much like the sort of that we considered periods the past, you can readily see that there very thing *n a the VC!Z way of sleeve design that has not been impossible such short time ago. They fit snugly at into in waist and and flare out toward the Drought play shaping sleeves for the present season. hips knees, extending experiments nad to be made, actually down the ankles where they are edged with lace. the wrist. And so on the because so many seasons had through The tendency for more elabor- coats are of fur down to the Pawed since sleeves had been century. ately.trimmed hats must perforce If you want to this sleeve elbows with the lower sleeves like elaborated In any way. During get move slowly, but here and there situation well In the aklrta of the coat made of 4 ail the seasons when we were mind, glance among the new French berets and ^ the of a book eloth. In other coats flaring cuffs preoccupied with lengths through pages bonnets interesting trimming j dealing with the of cos- makes Its *ur <*lrnd up to the elbow, sleeves remained practically un- history appearance. There afe10* , tume in the last and com- There seemed to be no century pare the with onwtype of Sleeve that was natur- sleeves those seen In the -alhr dne for revival. The only smartest of the new dresses. You will ^reQ-dellned feature of the sltu- realize that each of these is dkn ■ ■■ that sleeves should be- in fact a revival, but their ■nsM u I u borate. And In launcb- despite diversity you will observe that there Is feqpdhO'&ew era-of arm coverings something about them all that tbo-drensmakers have been most marks them distinctly with the date SUMroos. They have given us 1930. As a whole are •practically every type of sleeve they simpler In con- struction, less •that can be imagined, taking fussy, and more graceful than their 'thnin. as we have seen, from the prototypes. If the fulness occurs above the days In which they were revived elbow then the lower portion of la- the last century. the sieeve is closely fitted to re- veal the slender lines of the lower ! Empire Mode i arm. If the fulness occurs below the elbow then the sleeve Is From the Directotre and Fhn- closely fitted or draped above the elbow. There is plre of the first part of never anything bulky or over-elaborate about tfbanineteenth century have come even the most ambitious of these sleeves that show short puffs revivals. ev ruffles near the shoulder. Double and From the 1830-1840 period they Dolman have taken sleeves closely fitted long under sleeve full from the Among the most clever of the of light-toned crepe, usually to •Ibow to the shoulder, and from new sleeves are the new double bleeves match the collar or vestee at the tha same the that give the effect of period drooping neck of the . light gloves with a dark shoulder line. dress. From the 18.">0- Dolman are Here the sleeve is made to con- sleeves unquestion- 1860 period we have the ably to the leg o’ form to the lines of the arm from coming fore and have been mutton sleeve and from the 1880 the shoulder to a line a few Inches already noted not only on below the elbow, coats and street dresses but on period come sleeves that are where a flare snug afternoon or cuff of the dark material In- dresses as well. As from the shoulder to below the most of dicates a sleeve of a three- us can readily recall, a •Ibow with marked fulness dolman Is above quarter length. Relow this is a sleeve made with a 1 -:—i__^ deep armhole, the material of the The shows upper part of the sleeve usually flmire the new dolman sleeve and cowl neck. The other being continuous with the mate- sleeves are also smart ami new. rial of the dress. As a coat sleeve the of this has decided advantages since upper part the sleevw* i* provides enough room in the being of cloth. The short cspelet sleeve above the elbow to af- of fur, as worn by women of the rommodate any of the new dress eighties and nineties. Inspires otb« sleeves that are full above the winter coats which show -dhow. With the evening dress elbow* nade with flounces near th» length cape and rolling collar of •hnulder an evening wrap with fur over a long coat of cloth. hfs type of sleeve has obvious There no longer seems to id v antages. be any question about the . Long Gloves Coats with fur collars are fre- quently made without fur on the Dang gloves have established h^ir cuffs but place In the evening mode accompanied by small