Last Sleeves Mark 1930 Clothes Century MARY ---Ily MARSHALL------MAIN REQUIREMENT IS NEW MODE SHOWS FUSSY THAT THEY SHOULD BE DETAILS WOMEN THOUGHT FULL OF ELABORATION THEY WEKZ WELL HID OF
wide at the elbow, sleeves wide above the is a season when we do all sorts of things that we elbow and sleeves wide below the elbow. Sleeves with THISvowed we would never do again. We are wearing our and ankles long, tight cuffs, sleeves with flounces near the shoulder, evening dresses that dangle round insteps sleeves with we never would do that. We are flounces or ruffles near the wrists. Leg o‘ —and most of us vowed imtrtton sleeves. Bishop sleeves, Angel sleeves, Dolman wearing troublesome lingerie collars and cuffs and vestees ’Cieeres. Evening dresses with long sleeves and daytime that have to be taken out and washed or sent to the cleaners C°ats with elbow sleeves. and then fussily sewed in again—and we at least hoped we This is indeed a never to do that And if wc are season of varied arm coverings and there would have again. very up to date we are or even sleeve fashion of the nineteenth century that has wearing long lace-cdged slips petti- ®Ocbecn tried coats with our and afternoon dresses—a by some important French dressmaker or long evening thing another in this that most women considered out of the thirtieth year of the twentieth century. When definitely question recall the a few seasons fact that the fashion history of the last centurv ago. ;Was marked by a continuous series of revivals of all the The new long petticoats are most amusing, because they *omantic of are so much like the sort of that we considered periods the past, you can readily see that there very thing *n a the VC!Z way of sleeve design that has not been impossible such short time ago. They fit snugly at into in waist and and flare out toward the Drought play shaping sleeves for the present season. hips knees, extending experiments nad to be made, actually down the ankles where they are edged with lace. the wrist. And so on the because so many seasons had through The tendency for more elabor- coats are of fur down to the Pawed since sleeves had been century. ately.trimmed hats must perforce If you want to this sleeve elbows with the lower sleeves like elaborated In any way. During get move slowly, but here and there situation well In the aklrta of the coat made of 4 ail the seasons when we were mind, glance among the new French berets and ^ the of a book eloth. In other coats flaring cuffs preoccupied with skirt lengths through pages bonnets interesting trimming j dealing with the of cos- makes Its *ur <*lrnd up to the elbow, sleeves remained practically un- history appearance. There afe10* , tume in the last and com- There seemed to be no century pare the with onwtype of Sleeve that was natur- sleeves those seen In the -alhr dne for revival. The only smartest of the new dresses. You will ^reQ-dellned feature of the sltu- realize that each of these is dkn ■ ■■ that sleeves should be- in fact a revival, but their ■nsM u I u borate. And In launcb- despite diversity you will observe that there Is feqpdhO'&ew era-of arm coverings something about them all that tbo-drensmakers have been most marks them distinctly with the date SUMroos. They have given us 1930. As a whole are •practically every type of sleeve they simpler In con- struction, less •that can be imagined, taking fussy, and more graceful than their 'thnin. as we have seen, from the prototypes. If the fulness occurs above the days In which they were revived elbow then the lower portion of la- the last century. the sieeve is closely fitted to re- veal the slender lines of the lower ! Empire Mode i arm. If the fulness occurs below the elbow then the sleeve Is From the Directotre and Fhn- closely fitted or draped above the elbow. There is plre fashions of the first part of never anything bulky or over-elaborate about tfbanineteenth century have come even the most ambitious of these sleeves that show short puffs revivals. ev ruffles near the shoulder. Double and From the 1830-1840 period they Dolman have taken sleeves closely fitted long under sleeve full from the Among the most clever of the of light-toned crepe, usually to •Ibow to the shoulder, and from new sleeves are the new double bleeves match the collar or vestee at the tha same the that give the effect of period drooping neck of the dress. light gloves with a dark shoulder line. dress. From the 18.">0- Dolman are Here the sleeve is made to con- sleeves unquestion- 1860 period we have the ably to the leg o’ form to the lines of the arm from coming fore and have been mutton sleeve and from the 1880 the shoulder to a line a few Inches already noted not only on below the elbow, coats and street dresses but on period come sleeves that are where a flare snug afternoon or cuff of the dark material In- dresses as well. As from the shoulder to below the most of dicates a sleeve of a three- us can readily recall, a •Ibow with marked fulness dolman Is above quarter length. Relow this is a sleeve made with a 1 -:—i__^ deep armhole, the material of the The shows upper part of the sleeve usually flmire the new dolman sleeve and cowl neck. The other being continuous with the mate- sleeves are also smart ami new. rial of the dress. As a coat sleeve the of this has decided advantages since upper part the sleevw* i* provides enough room in the being of cloth. The short cspelet sleeve above the elbow to af- of fur, as worn by women of the rommodate any of the new dress eighties and nineties. Inspires otb« sleeves that are full above the winter coats which show -dhow. With the evening dress elbow* nade with flounces near th» length cape and rolling collar of •hnulder an evening wrap with fur over a long coat of cloth. hfs type of sleeve has obvious There no longer seems to id v antages. be any question about the muff. Long Gloves Coats with fur collars are fre- quently made without fur on the Dang gloves have established h^ir cuffs but place In the evening mode accompanied by small Top left, silk erepo shows flaring niffs on sleeves, ve.lvet Veils, too, are quite likely to icw fur jackets with sleeves tnat fH'ials at wrist; top right, gr«*en elotli coat lias sleeves slashed In return to 'nd in a fashion. Talbot of slight flare below the points, llio point* held with buttons. Center group of sleeves Paris dbow. to be worn with shows has made a charming poke elbow wrinkled Mark velvet enff with narrow band of a ngth far. gloves. Under a far of Dlrectolre a coat puffed sleeve with fullness gathered Into frilled ruff and a suggestion with • f that puffed sort one wears a sh-rvo with dress rulln<>ss held in hj a shaped ruff, » velvet afternoon veil that falls from the vith long flaring sleeves, the gloves be- c-oat sleeve short at the front to show the glove, a lone tight front brim over the face and ng drawn over the dress sleeve with sleeve. puff at the top. a sleeve that gives a Small buttons many-eapedi down to the shoulders, while the usually covered effort and a sleeve with u pointed over drapery. At left, below, vlth the fabric of the same dress are evening dress with short sleeve made of of silver milliner finishes a small ised petal* and rose to ornament many of at the paillettes, richt. below, a sleeve made of narrow tnlle Juliet hat with a veil that Jus* lew sleeves. A ruffle*, line of these but- and renter, a Mark velvet dress with sleeve* puffed at the top shades the eyes. may extend in a strairht line and tons trimmed with hands of bead embroidery like the yoke. rom the center of the shoul ler Autumn Colors Dress or Gown Brown Instead of black and Robe or Frock? near-blacks are Important foe autumn. persons can them “dresses." While black has a perennial MOST This Is the term ap- that peal to the smartly dressed wo- has been usually man, and while French dress- adopted by the makers of this branch of makers always Incline to the use apparel and the name that la of it, a definite effort has bees used by the retailers. Ladles and made to make use of shades trt Misses Dresses’* is the direction brown Instead of black for con- the elevator man It? taught to ventional street clothes. give—not "Ladles’ and CaJlot, Misses' Frocks." of Paris, is In the vanguard o4 While this word this movement and doubtless w« "dress” is mo8t usual there shall see a great deal of brows are some people who object to It during the autumn. used In this sense. Some At the same time there art persons always speak of dark ’• various shades of blue "frocks,” and others of "gowns navy the of Perhaps chief objection to green and purple that art the term dress of is that correctly spoken as near-black or lights it should b© er-than-blark. applied to all that is There Is a “pia® worn from head to foot. When black" and a dark bergundg you read "her dress was rich.” called "ink" that are much dis- or "her dress was Inappropriate ” cussed at present. There is you naturally take it to mean her definite smartness is entire this apparel, not merely her gr>-en autumn and many ol gown or frock. the smartest street costumes front The word robe, which cam« into Paris are developed In the darker richer fashion the middle of the last tones of this color. silk Eyelet-embroidered crepe tunic has deep silk cuffs on loose century In this sense. Is spoken sleeTcs. of in ns 1862 "a French mantua- rnaker’s affectation.’* Correctly It is the to the wrist on the outside of the apparel of kings and ually choose black or navy blue sleeve, over two dozen small but- or judges. Certainly this word beige, according to the fashion, tons for a hardly fits the sort of dress being used single for day-time frocks In and that about women wear sleeve. Or there be a nowadays. It im- may line j Paris, who don bright and vivid plies rather of them from wrist to elbow on colors for the something stately and months they spend flowing. a sleeve that shows fulness at or at some seaside i/c-^ summer resort. Gown above the this line was revived as the term elbow. Or of j The fact is that in the cold pen- for a woman’s Qnaint silk velvet drcm lias buttons eztend three or dress a little after puffed sleete*—and a puffed skirt— may only etrating light of our cities it is fcur inches from the elbow. robe.” It has the advantage of with rosettes of the dress material. up difficult to wear bright colors and _trimmed been used still to having in much the look smart. This is espe- same sense at an early period. pairs of very small quills at th* cially true of older women. j However, like "robe’* it some- j sides of some of tlic new brimmed Color One authority on such matters BLOUSE! By Night times conveys a sense of dignity says that the woman with hats and sometimes two small blue and an emblem of women seem to follow office. This week's Sewing is eyes should wear blue In the eve- Help feathers are placed Just behind Frock somehow seems to fill the a SOMEthe general rule never to ning. Of course the pattern diagram for a sleeve, blue-eyed wo- till better today than either the left ear on a brimless hat. wear bright colors save for eve-! man would gown less blouse, the kind you can hardly be expected or or for robe. Originally frock was wear all winter under a Some of the new coats for win- ning very bright sunlight. always to wear blue, but she jacket For street wear and applied to the garment of a monk, dress. If you would like ter day-time wear should certainly not miss the It, are made with the bodice op- and It is because of this that »•« generally save at the seashore or ! of send your stamped, self-ad- 9q^ portunity sometimes w'earing a portion entirely of fur which ex- il: use the term “unfrock,” to indi- dressed to country, they choose dark or neu- color that so becomes envelope Mary Mar- Par-trimmed coat sleeves her. espe- cate a tends Just to the belted show all the new devices used to make tral tones. Thus clergyman s Joss of rank. shall. care of this and waistline, there are French cially this season when the paper, (he sketch shows bow em- sice\es one of the most blue attractive dress details. women of good taste who it will b sent to you. giving the effect of a bolero. habit- evening frock is so smart. broidery is awed to rsnbdltil @ McClure Xncspapcr Syndicate. Sometimes the sleeves of these an otherwise plain aleere. (Pii 1