MODEST FASHION

THE INDUSTRY’S BEST KEPT SECRET UNCOVERING billion-dollar industry and industry billion-dollar one of fashion’s fastest Modest Fashion is a growing sectors. sectors. growing MODEST

Image Credit: SØLVE SUNDSBØ - Allure Magazine 2017

Cover Image Credit: SØLVE SUNDSBØ - Allure Magazine 2017 Arif Miah relevant andauthenticway. how toconnectwiththeMuslimwomen that fuelit,ina Secret” andare onamissiontohelpbrands understand recognise them. but far from beingdisengaged,were for eager brands to it cametofashion. They felt ignored andmisunderstood of women totheirown whohadbeenleft deviceswhen tick, andclick,online. Whatwe discovered was agroup their customerjourneys andfound outwhat madethem people consumingitevery day. Fashionunderstand whatModest really tothe meant over 500 Muslimwomen upanddown to thecountry We went directly tothesource, conductingastudyof the Muslimpopulationfuellingthiseconomy intheUK. dedicatedtounderstanding thelifestyles of M:LIFE, thembyattempts tocourt thebigbrands failed sofar? were thewomen behindthemovement? Andwhy had forit meant theclientswe work withevery day. Who brands for over 15years, we were intriguedastowhat for someoftheworld’s best-loved fashion andlifestyle of fashion’s fastest growing sectors. FashionModest isinfact andone abillion-dollarindustry of themainstream players. which sofar, seemstohave eludedtheattentionofmany momentum infashion’s lexicon for adecadebut nearly Modest Fashion. We’re Fashion callingModest “TheIndustry’s Kept Best We delved intotheirshoppinghabits,mappedout To more, learn we setupanew strategic division, As acreative agency whohave beendrivingdesire Still perceived by someasaburgeoning collective, Strategist, ODD The Industry’s Kept Best Secret It’s aphrase that’s beengaining MODEST FASHION:

02 “WAKE UP. 03 IT’S 2019.

THE FAITH AND MODEST ECONOMY

A SNAPSHOT:

Modest Fashion is one of the industry’s fastest growing sectors. Globally, it’s valued at over $270bn, and is predicted to hit $360bn by 2023. To put that into FASHION perspective, it ranks behind only the US and China in terms of total fashion market size. In the UK alone, British Muslims are fuelling a fashion and lifestyle economy with a predicted value of over £35bn. And whilst our high street might be flailing, pure play modest brands such as Aab are experiencing unprecedented growth, with YOY sales up +80%. AREN’T MUTUALLY

Female, 25, London EXCLUSIVE.” 04

WHAT IS IS: “Modest means shoulders, arms and legs are covered.” Female, 41, Birmingham

In reality, there’s no clear-cut definition of Modest Fashion but broadly it’s clothing that is loose-fitting, non-transparent, and covers your arms, shoulders and legs.

“Modest Fashion should be normal clothes that we normally wear.” Female, 18, Leeds

Muslim women are “normal” women. They work, SO WHAT ACTUALLY IS socialise, exercise and relax, just like everyone else. Modest Collections should have the variety and MODEST FASHION? functionality for all of life’s activities.

97% of Muslim women consider modesty when shopping for fashion.

Due to their need to cover, fashion is so much more The current high-street than just a religious necessity. It’s a huge part of a Muslim woman’s identity and self-expression. definition of Modest Fashion WHAT IS ISN’T: “It’s frustrating when brands release a Modest is flawed; it’s neither modest Collection that has nothing modest about it. Who told them random slits and plunging necklines nor fashion(able). were modest?“ Female, 23, London Plunging necklines; sheer fabrics; slits; figure-hugging designs - none of these are appropriate for a Modest It’s time to set the Collection. “They call it a Modest Fashion line, but it’s as if they think record straight. Muslims don’t want to be fashionable.” Female, 24, London Modest Fashion doesn’t mean staid, uninspiring clothing, it follows the same trends as the regular fashion calendar.

63% of Muslim women said high street brands appropriate cultural dress, rather than catering to actual fashion needs.

Modest Fashion does not mean appropriating cultural clothing. It’s not just burkas and maxi dresses; it’s regular fashionable items that meet a few, very important modest requirements. MODEST FASHION: 05 The Industry’s Best Kept Secret

WHY IS THE HIGH STREET BEING LEFT BEHIND? IGNORED 86% of Muslim women feel ignored by high recording a 500% increase in the first four street fashion brands. months of 2018 in the UK. Ignored and misunderstood, British Muslims 93% of Muslim women say a modest are leaving the high street behind. They’re line would encourage them to visit a store. turning to Muslim-owned brands such as From searching for halal restaurants, Inayah and Modanisa for their fashion fixes as to checking the back of sweet packets for they search for modest clothing that is actually animal products or regularly having to put fit for purpose: i.e. modest and fashionable. back clothes they like in-store because 3 in 4 Muslim women put products back they’re not fit for purpose, Western Muslims when shopping because they do not meet are used to having to “make do”. their requirements. “…to be honest we’re so under catered Online, they’re driving a thriving community for, even if Lidl launched a modest line, of influencers, stylists and bloggers who have I’d definitely check it out” Female, 21, London sprung up in place of the traditional retailers - But instead of feeling disaffected they dispelling the myth that Muslim women aren’t are eager for brands to acknowledge them interested in fashion. and their shopping needs. No matter what In fact, searches for Modest Fashion are the brand, as long as its halal (permissible), booming, with social platform Pinterest Muslims are open to a conversation. MODEST FASHION:

NIKE 06 H&M The Industry’s Best Kept Secret Image Credit: Image Credit: Image Credits: Image Credits:

SOME BRANDS ARE ALREADY SEEING A HALO EFFECT But often products are missing the mark: Muslim women are looking for a solution, not a stereotype. And whilst they have been delighted by the big brands’ efforts to engage, many pointed out an evident lack of understanding when it came to the needs of Muslim women. From H&M’s Modest Collection which was “The Nike hijab made me reminiscent of cultural and ethnic dress, to ASOS’ Ramadan Edit which featured crop tops and revealing interested in the brand. skirts, and even Nike’s hijab which lacked functionality due to its fit - it’s clear there’s still much headway to It made me feel Nike be made for brands to truly understand and cater was being inclusive. And to the Muslim consumer. showing a boxing hijabi made me feel proud.” Female, 20, Manchester “H&M’s modest range, I wouldn’t buy anything. It was an Asian inspired collection that wasn’t actually modest” It comes as no surprise that one of the world’s most innovative brands, Nike, is already driving desire Female, 31, Bradford amongst this demographic. The sportswear giant released their Pro Hijab in 2017 to much applause, and retailers including Uniqlo, H&M and ASOS have also received high praise for their Modest fashion efforts, which finally made Muslim women part of the mainstream conversation. And these efforts resonated well beyond the target demographic; creating a halo effect on the rest of the brand and driving overall sales and perception. MODEST FASHION: 07 The Industry’s Best Kept Secret

SO HOW The current landscape presents a golden opportunity for retailers to get ahead of the curve and position themselves as the brand that understands the needs of Muslim consumers.

The first three insights from our study CAN YOUR can help you understand how:

BRAND FOREVER NOT FLEETING

For Muslims, their faith is 365 days a year. BECOME Make your efforts more than just a token conversation.

MODEST CURATION NOT COLLECTION

Take the onus off Muslim women to be their own stylists. -READY? Make your brand accessible to them by curating your current product lines.

Muslim women spend 16% more on fashion than the average British consumer. Modest Fashion isn’t another passing trend or NORMAL fad. It’s a way of dressing committed to by faith, that remains with the wearer for a lifetime. NOT OTHER 78% of Muslim women said a Modest Collection It’s time to think about the role of religious diversity and would encourage them to purchase more. how you can empower Muslim women with your comms. As a demographic, Muslims are growing in affluence and mobility and have a much higher propensity to shop than the average British woman. And whilst they may have passed under the radar of many brands until now, their size and spending power means they can no longer be ignored. MODEST FASHION: 08 The Industry’s Best Kept Secret Image Credit: SØLVE SUNDSBØ - Allure Magazine 2017 - Allure SUNDSBØ SØLVE Image Credit:

FOREVER NOT FLEETING

To successfully connect with any demographic, your communications need to become part of their everyday lives. Brands are becoming aware of increased spends during Ramadan, when Muslims drive footfall surges “WE’RE of up to 47% as they shop for Eid. To coincide with this month, the biggest in their religious calendar, retailers are producing specific Ramadan collections and edits. “If brands target us only at Ramadan, it’s clear they just want to make money from us and not really engage with us” Female, 19, Manchester But with the majority of Muslims feeling ignored by NOT JUST high street brands, token conversations such as these do little to drive long-term brand loyalty and can, in the short-term, leave Muslims feeling disenfranchised and used purely for financial gain.

For brands to truly connect with this demographic, MUSLIMS AT they must learn how to extend the conversation beyond the month of Ramadan and engage them with their holistic marketing activities throughout the year. RAMADAN.”

Female, 19, Manchester MODEST FASHION: 09 The Industry’s Best Kept Secret

“IT TAKES ME AGES TO FIND A TRENDY CURATION NOT COLLECTION SHIRT THAT DOESN’T ACCENTUATE MY In the absence of readily available Modest Fashion on the high street, Muslim women have had to become their own stylists. To create a Modest look, they’ve got used to BODY, SO I FIND combining multiple items and sometimes even resort to alterations to make them suitable. 1 in 2 women resorted to purchasing from the men’s department to find suitable clothing in the last 12 months. MYSELF SPENDING This makes their customer journey considerably longer than that of the typical shopper, and is where social media has come into its own for the Muslim community. This difficult path to purchase has birthed a booming HOURS LOOKING collective of bloggers and influencers who have given a voice to Muslim women and helped them navigate the world of fashion through styling tips and advice. FOR DIFFERENT Catering to this group is not just about producing specific modest lines - advice on how to style existing products in a modest way is a great place to start. Brands should consider how they can use the channel mix and external ITEMS THAT CAN partners to achieve this. WORK TOGETHER.”

Female, 23, Leeds MODEST FASHION: 10 The Industry’s Best Kept Secret Image Credit: Zaheera Mohammed Zaheera Image Credit:

“WE DON’T NORMAL NOT OTHER WANT TO FEEL

For years, Muslim women have been subjected to a false mainstream narrative of a downtrodden, oppressed woman who doesn’t want to integrate with society. DIFFERENT But they’re no longer willing to accept this misrepresentation and expect brands to reflect them in a real and authentic way alongside everybody else. “We’re made out to be this ‘other’ category that supposedly doesn’t integrate” Female, 22, Leeds FROM EVERYONE In the past, brands have compromised their efforts through casting errors which failed to embrace the majority of Muslim women who in the UK are mainly from BAME backgrounds. Their minimal representation in the big ad ELSE, WE JUST campaigns has also done little to dispel feelings of ostracism. As brands navigate fashion’s new and long-awaited era of diversity and inclusion, it’s time to consider the role that religious diversity has to play. They must consider how to represent Muslims in a way that avoids stereotypes and WANT TO FIT IN.” makes them part of the mainstream narrative.

Female, 19, Birmingham MODEST FASHION: 11 The Industry’s Best Kept Secret

This summary uncovers the first three insights from our research into Modest Fashion.

The full M:LIFE workshop provides a deep-dive into all the findings from our study on the lifestyles of British Muslim women and how they shop. M LIFE From their mindset, motivations and purchase decisions, About M:LIFE: to their discovery process, M:LIFE is a strategic division that advises brands on how to drive desire amongst Muslim consumers in an obstacles and needs. informed and authentic way. It is the latest offering from ODD, a fashion and lifestyle creative agency with over 15 years’ experience driving desire for some of the world’s best-loved brands, including Dr. Martens, Eastpak, Mr Porter, F&F (Tesco), Benefit Cosmetics For more information, or to and Levi Strauss & Co. understand how we can help your brand become Modest- ready, contact Hope Abel at [email protected]