RE-UNITING THE STONES OF HYDE ABBEY

A Hyde900 community-based project to understand, appreciate and re-connect with the scattered remains of Hyde Abbey, the final burial place of King Alfred the Great

‘For the king [Alfred] died on the seventh day, before the feast of All Saints; his body lies at peace in .’ Æthelweard, an elderman of the western shires – 10th Century Where are the Stones? Hyde Abbey was It is to ‘re-unite’ these If you have any likely demolished in the late stones of Hyde Abbey – stones from the abbey in 1530s. Its stones, in at least in our databank your own house or garden all their rich variety of – and understand their please contact us via www. material, design and qualities, that this project hyde900.org.uk use, can now be seen has been established throughout Hyde and the by Hyde900.We aim surrounding area, re-used to record the diaspora, in a variety of buildings. make connections to Many can also be found see patterns of use and still lying loose in gardens, also ‘re-imagine’ the pits and dumps. architectural details. Romanesque Billet Moulding

Sketch showing the architectural function of the stone on display. The stone would have formed part of the door jamb of an elaborate Romanesque This 12th century Romanesque billet mould type stone doorway, perhaps of is loaned by Winchester Museums and was found during the Abbey church. excavations at 82 Hyde Street.

Stylistically, this piece the Romanesque style of The zigzag motif which is The heavy axed tooling appears to be late Norman masonry walling, in order to carved on either side of that can be seen along the work from the second express the opening with a the ornament is known central margin also indicates half of the 12th century. series of enriched geometric as ‘Chevron moulding’, a that the piece was produced Because of the way the mouldings. design which frequently in the Norman period. stone has been shaped, appears in this style of it seems likely that the The studs that flank the architecture and has often The stone on display was architectural function of the central margin are similar to been used to accentuate found at the excavation piece was to form part of those seen in the ‘Nail-head’ church windows, arches and of 82 Hyde Street on 21 an elaborate Romanesque moulding, although slightly doorways. January 1955. doorway. Furthermore, more rounded in form. it would have acted as a The Jamb stone has been Jamb stone rather than The piece is also similar carved from Caen Stone an arch stone or voussoir to the ‘Billet Moulding’. which would help to as the bedding planes are However, this is usually support a date of mid-to-late flat and not splayed. Such set out in a characteristic 12th century. doorways made use of regular, alternate pattern. the thickness, inherent in

12th century Romanesque billet moulding stone which Stone bridge across the stream running through the was found in the garden of Silverstream, Headbourne garden of Silverstream, built from the ashlar stones found Worthy. It was later reused as a feature in a brick chimney in the garden rockery. in an extension to the cottage. The stone was originally part of the stone chimney in the cottage.

Court of Chancery Record, Bethell v Ward. Bethell owned the Abbey site, which Ward was to take possession of due to an unpaid loan by Bethell. Ward sent a servant with a cart and horse to carry away two or three loads of freestone from the Abbey to his house at Worthy Paunceforte, which was part of the modern manor of Headbourne Worthy. Whistle Stones These unusually shaped The whistle stones have stones appear frequently, been found carved from reused and built into many both Quarr and Caen of the rubble masonry stone, displaying a variety walls around Hyde. In this of different tooled finishes. way, they are usually only This would suggest that seen in section and it can this was a well-established be hard to imagine what building practice their architectural function throughout the medieval might have been. They period. can appear in a number of shapes and sizes but all Despite this, the only share the characteristic whistle stones found ‘whistle’ shape. have been in the area of Hyde and Headbourne The example displayed in Worthy. The presence the exhibition allows us to of these stones, and view the piece in its correct many others from Hyde orientation and as it would Abbey in Headbourne appear in a building. Worthy, may be due to the ownership of the manor These stones were in fact, of Worthy Pauncefoot Sketch showing the stone as part of a column in the reveal of simply part of a shaft or (or Paunceforte) – part a building. column and the straight of Headbourne Worthy projection would not have – by Hyde Abbey during been visible at all, as it was the period the abbey used to tie the structure flourished. back into the main body of the wall. It would have Whilst many of the stones been part of a shaft that shown are located on was positioned where two private property, those in walls intersected to form the walls around Hyde, an internal right-angle. unless otherwise stated, The tying-in end of the are visible from public stone would be hidden in land. Can you find them, such a way as to create the and indeed any others? A illusion of the shaft being a handout is available for freestanding structure. you to help you track them down. The whistle stone was found in Hyde Street in 2004.

One of the ‘whistle’ stones that has been reused in the east Another stone that has been reused in the Hyde area. It is end of Hyde House. William Bethell built the house adjacent accurately carved in a near perfect circular shape with the to the demolished Abbey buildings in the second part of the tongue set at a right angle to the shaft. However the tongue is 16th century. The shaft is oval rather than circular and the not parallel across its length and appears to have a rounded tongue is at 135 degrees from the shaft. end. This could be as a result of damage prior to reuse.

This piece is accurately carved in a near perfect circular shape with the tongue set at slightly more than a right angle to the shaft. However the tongue is parallel across its length. The This example, reused in the Hyde area, is accurately carved stone was reused in Hyde in a central position over a chimney in a near perfect circular shape with the tongue at a right beam and was clearly intended as a decorative feature. angle to the shaft.

This example is also accurately carved in a near perfect This stone has been reused in the Headbourne Worthy area in circular shape with the tongue set at a right angle to the shaft. the outside wall of a cottage. It is carved in an approximately However, again, the tongue is not parallel across its length, circular shape with the tongue at a right angle to the shaft. and appears to have a rounded end. This could be The tongue is parallel across its length. The finish suggests an the result of damage prior to reuse. axe was used in the carving of the stone. Six More Stones The six stones exhibited are all from Winchester Museum’s collection and were found during excavations in the area around Hyde Abbey between 1972 and 1999

Corner Shaft Two fragments of Caen Stone stone shaft found during the 1995-99 Hyde Abbey Excavation programme, run as part of the Winchester Museums Service Community Archaeology Programme. The slenderness of this shaft is characteristic of the Early English period of architecture (late 12th to mid-13th century). Looking at the piece in section it can be seen that one quarter of the stone has been left square. This was because, as with the Whistle Stones, the shaft was intended to fit where two walls meet to form an internal right-angle. The lead that protrudes from one end of the shaft would have been poured in a molten state to fill a slot carved between this stone and a larger piece of masonry in the main body of the wall. The masonry term for this sort of slot is a ‘joggle’.

Vaulting Rib This section of a rib moulding from a vaulted ceiling, was also found during the 1995-99 Hyde Abbey Excavation programme. This piece would have been located near to the point where the vault emanates from the top of a pier or column. This intersection of the ribs was known as a ‘Tas-de-charge’. It is possible to tell the original position of the piece from the steep angle of the top bedding plane. The angles of the joint would have become progressively steeper so as to receive the thrust of the vault as it neared the column. The piece has been worked from Caen Stone and the moulding is typical of the Early English style of architecture. It is therefore likely to have been produced sometime between 1180 and 1250 AD and 1250 AD.

Scalloped Capital A capital found during the 1972 Hyde Abbey Excavation programme. This particular form of capital is known as ‘scalloped’ and was a development of the earlier and simpler cushion capital. Each side is separated into a number of truncated cones. Like much of the stonework from this period, the piece is formed from Quarr Stone from the Isle of Wight. It was probably carved in the later part of the Norman period (early to mid-12th century).

Decorative String Course A decorative fragment that still retains traces of mortar from its reuse after the dismantling of Hyde Abbey after the Dissolution. It was found in 1974 during the 1974- 75 Hyde Abbey Excavation Programme. This foliate ornament, worked from Quarr Stone, is a good example of Norman decorative work; the simple stylisation of the leaves and use of studs or beading is representative of the style. It is difficult to say exactly where it might have fitted within the building; one possibility is that it formed part of a decorative frieze or string course. A string course was a continual horizontal band of protruding stones used to either delineate a change in level of the building or to express a line above windows or arcading.

Canopy Piece This small fragment, found during the 1995-99 Hyde Abbey Excavation programme, was probably once part of a richly carved canopy, either from a niche or shrine. The inside of a canopy resembled a miniature vaulted ceiling and was of complex geometric design. The piece is carved from Caen Stone and the work is of a later medieval style, probably that of the 14th century. Upon close inspection there is evidence of a fine toothed drag tool being used to finish the piece.

Voussoir Section A voussoir or arch stone section, found in 1999 during the 1995-99 Hyde Abbey Excavation programme. The moulded section is characteristic of the Norman Style of architecture. It is carved from the coarser Quarr Stone and as was usual in this period, the surface displays heavier tooling marks made by a stone axe. The Norman style of arch was always rounded and the joint-lines between the stones radiated from the arch’s centre. The Destruction of Hyde Abbey and The Dispersal of its Stones and Other Building Materials

Although religious reform was the Winchester and the surrounding overt context for the dissolution of area. Some fifty yeas later William the monasteries, there was also a Shakespeare was to dedicate his strong financial motivation. King narrative poem ‘Venus and Adonis’ Henry VIII’s government was in to Wriothesley’s grandson the urgent need of funds and the king’s Third Earl of Southampton who, friends and henchmen were keen to it is suspected by some, helped to secure windfall fortunes from the support Shakespeare financially at pillaging of the monasteries’ wealth. the start of his career.

In the case of Hyde Abbey it was There are many examples of reused Thomas Wriothesley (who features stones from the Abbey in the area. prominently in the award winning Interestingly, the only ones we can novel ‘Bring up the Bodies’ by Hilary be certain about have been found in Mantel) who was awarded the lease the area of Hyde and Headbourne Map showing the distribution of stones to the abbey and its possessions by Worthy. As stated elsewhere, this in Headbourne Worthy. the king. As the lease stated: may be due to the ownership of the Danes Rd.

Egbert Rd. manor of Worthy Pauncefoot (or The Hyde ‘The stone, tymber, slates, iron and glasse Paunceforte, part of Headbourne Tavern Monks Rd. ST BARTHOLOMEW’S CHURCH Hyde Church Path remaining within and upon the Church Worthy) by Hyde Abbey during the Saxon Rd. cloister, chapter house, dormytery, period the Abbey flourished. B3420 Andover Road Hyde Church Lane. King Alfred Pl. the Convent Hall, with the lodgings Rosewarne Ct.

B3045 Worthy Lane BETHELL’S adjoining and the Gatehouse, deemed by While some of the stones in the Hyde Close. OLD HYDE Hyde Street HOUSE Hyde Gate. the king’s Comyssioners to be superfluous photos (like the whistle stones) are Hyde Close. King Alfred Terrace located on private property, those in houses, to be rased and taken to thuse of Victoria Rd. Victoria Rd. the kinge his majesytie.’ the walls around Hyde, other than Silchester Pl. Arungton Pl those in Old Hyde House, are visible

Swan Lane This gave the green light to the from public land. Again, can you Marston Gate.

Sussex Street Hyde Abbey Road demolition, sale and reuse of Hyde find them, or even discover others? A B3330 City Road Abbey stones both within the hand-out is available for you to help immediate area and elsewhere in you track them down. Map showing the distribution of stones across Hyde.

Cottage adjoining Bedfield Lane Silverstream, Bedfield Lane in in Headbourne Worthy Headbourne Worthy Medieval ashlar stone blocks, a Medieval ashlar stone and whistle stone, corner shaft stone finely carved jamb stone with and shafts (end on) in a 17th roll-moulding in exposed century cottage wall chimney breast in a 17th or possibly 16th century timber framed cottage

East facing end wall of Boundary wall of car park Old Hyde House at Old Hyde House Medieval ashlar stone blocks, Medieval ashlar stone blocks, whistle stone, corner shaft stone one featuring triangular and shafts (end on), reused chequer decoration, reused within William Bethell’s 16th within William Bethell’s 16th century house century house

House wall of 4 Hyde Wall near Hyde Gatehouse Churchyard Path Medieval ashlar and carved Medieval ashlar stone blocks, pier piece pointed shaft and carved head on corbel

External boundary wall of Wall in Victoria Gate Old Hyde House Medieval mullion from a Medieval ashlar stone blocks, blind tracery panel whistle stone and shafts (end on)

External boundary wall External wall of north aisle, opposite Hyde Gatehouse St Bartholomew’s church, Medieval ashlar stone blocks Hyde and a whistle stone (end on) Stiff-leaf Crockets and a Finial stone

Tower of St Bartholomew’s Boundary wall of Church, Hyde Old Hyde House Medieval ashlar stone blocks, Early English vaulting rib, one featuring weathered, late to mid-12th century triangular chequer decoration Hyde Abbey: The Final Burial Place of King Alfred The Great

King Alfred died in 899. The End of New Minster The Move To Hyde Although some of his Two hundred years later the monastery was At the time of the move to Hyde predecessors had been the construction of dissolved and the monks from New Minster during the buried in the Old Minster, Winchester Cathedral by were pensioned off. The reign of Abbot Geoffrey, the the fore-runner of today’s the new Norman regime redundant buildings were king granted another charter to Cathedral, Alfred wanted meant ‘all change’ in very rapidly plundered for the monks of Hyde, whereby, to build a new church in the city centre. The Old their valuable construction amongst other regulations, it was the centre of Winchester as Minster had been brought materials. arranged that a joint procession a resting place for himself down to accommodate the of the monks of St. Swithun Shortly after the and his dynasty. In his will Cathedral and the New and Hyde was to be made year Dissolution the visiting Minster was also standing by year. Their new home was he left ‘fifty pounds to the antiquarian John Leland in its way. So, under the speedily ready for occupation church in which I shall rest’. reported: auspices of King Henry and in 1110, the monks of New The ‘New’ Minster, to 1st, land was bought a little ‘All that now remains [of Minster carried with them to contrast it with the ‘Old’, way outside the city (in the Hyde Abbey] are some the Abbey of Hyde, in solemn was completed quickly area known as Hyde) for portions of the walls, a procession, their sacred relics, after Alfred’s death. In the a new abbey church and gateway, and a few small the great gold cross of Cnut’s interim years his body had accompanying monastery door-ways of the fifteenth benefaction, together with the been placed in the Old to be built. century, and some fragments illustrious remains of Alfred, Minster but his unhappy of an earlier period built in his queen and his son. Henry In 1110 a great procession spirit was claimed to walk the neighbouring walls.’ I made several grants to the took the coffins of Alfred, at night in dissatisfaction. abbey, among them the churches Edward, Alswitha and It has continued so Alfred, together with his of Kingsclere and Alton and five other dignitaries across ever since. wife Alswitha who died hides in Alton which William I to Hyde where they were a couple of years later, had given in exchange for land reburied in prominent in the . He were then buried in New positions within the abbey also confirmed to them the right Minster to be followed church. The community of of soc and sac, thol and theam later by their son King Benedictine monks then and other liberties. Edward. followed and remained there until 1538 when From the Victoria County History of

Liber Monasterii de Hyda Three copies of Alfred the Great’s will in Latin, Early English and Middle English

Liber Vitae de Hida Vitae de Hida A projection of the New Minster’s Grant recording the acquisition of view of its history and identity at a land by King Edward the Elder of time when Winchester was the centre land on which to build the New of Anglo-Danish . It was Minster circa 901 AD probably commissioned by King Cnut (1016–1035) and shows the King presenting the ‘Gold Cross’ to the New Minster.

Bird’s eye impressions of Hyde Abbey by Nick McPherson Hyde Abbey: A Typical Benedictine Monastery of the 12th Century

The translation of the bones of King Alfred to Hyde Abbey in 1110 Plan of Hyde Abbey overlaid on to today’s street plan

Hyde Abbey was and early stopping off In purely architectural accommodation for exceptional in its age point on the pilgrims’ terms, however, Hyde visitors and other offices. because it had the honour way from Winchester to Abbey would have been Consequently the abbey and responsibility of Canterbury. The royal very typical of Benedictine church built by Henry looking after the remains graves were set before the abbeys of the Norman I in Reading in the of King Alfred the Great High Altar while the side era. By the 12th century 1120s – inspired one can and his family. It also chapels might well have what might be regarded reasonably imagine by acquired a number of hosted the relics. Pilgrims as a standard pattern had Hyde Abbey – was very relics, notably those of St. would have processed emerged in the design much along the same lines Josse (also known as St. around the side aisles to of these abbey churches as Hyde in its layout. Judoc). This made it in absorb the holiness which along with their associated later years, an important emanated from them. cloisters, dormitories,

Wherwell Abbey Romsey Abbey Hyde Abbey Winchester Cathedral Comparative length of Hyde Abbey and other contemporary abbeys and churches Capital example on display at St. Bartholomew, Hyde

Building Materials Decoration Because of the Cathedral, stone was Artistically, the plain Today the Priory Church predominance of chalk necessary. The principal solidity of Norman of St Bartholomew the throughout much of types of stone used in architecture with its Great in Smithfield, City Hampshire, builders Winchester during the rounded arches and of London, built in the have had to rely on the Norman period were: sturdy pillars would have 1120s, gives some sense importation of stone in been relieved by the lively of what the east end of QUARR STONE – from Hyde Abbey would have order to create imposing, the Isle of Wight which inventiveness of capitals high status buildings. Flint and corbels in the cloister looked and felt like. It is also featured prominently also clear from decorated was widely available, as can in the cathedral and elsewhere (done in be seen in the construction the Winchester style). In carved remnants (found of more modest buildings CAEN STONE – brought the case of Hyde, a small particularly in the such as St. Bartholomew, across from Normandy, number of distinguished external north wall of St, Hyde (originally the which was particularly examples remain of both of Bartholomew) that Hyde chapel for local laity built popular for fine carvings these features (on display Abbey evolved over time within the precincts of (such as the decorated in St. Bartholomew). These and embraced other styles the monastery). Moreover, capitals) carvings are comparable to notably those from the flint could also be used for PURBECK MARBLE – those from Reading Abbey Decorated period (roughly the core of walls and this might have been used in in Reading Museum and fourteenth century). was probably the case with Hyde Abbey, although it is might, conceivably, have Hyde Abbey. However, likely to have been recycled been executed by the same for the exposed surfaces out of the immediate area craftsmen. of the abbey, as with the after the Dissolution.

Acknowledgements This exhibition could not have been put on without the help of the following: ADAM Architecture for sponsorship Dr Simon Roffey FSA, FRAS, FRHistS. Local residents (too numerous to mention) and especially Jeremy Drake and University of Winchester for access to their walls and gardens Helen Lawrence-Beaton Staff of the Hampshire Records Office Winchester City Council for access to Ross Lovett, Head Mason at Winchester their illustrations and resources Cathedral who provided huge expertise Nick McPherson for his architectural in the deciphering of the stones and representations of Hyde Abbey The Hyde900 Executive Committee for supporting this exhibition both financially reuniting them with others in the form Sophie Cunningham Dawe for the ‘Re- of superb sketches and, individually, providing advice and uniting the Stones of Hyde Abbey’ logo services. Helen Rees, Curator of Archaeology The Revd Cliff Bannister, Rector, for Winchester Museums Edward Fennell and David Spurling, permitting use of St. Bartholomew, Hyde Event coordinators. negative capability part II

Local artists and writers respond to the Stones of Hyde Abbey A Hyde900 satellite event for 10 days | Winchester | Creative Collisions

Trefoil Sophie Cunningham Dawe

Brian Evans-Jones Madelaine Smith Stephen Boyce Leaving The Minster The Stonecutter’s Boy Hyde Abbey Reclaimed

For the last time in this place My tools still, What they did to the Pyramids, the temples of Syracuse, we gather. Ahead and behind As the brothers pass me by. the walls of Carcassonne, they did here in the precincts of Hyde: line my brothers in Christ; our feet Hammer hovers in anticipation shuffle the dust, and I Above the stone, the chisel waits rummaged and scavenged and carried away capstones and quoins, have one moment left in this hollow dark. As vestments sweep the floor. lintels, corbels, plinths and mullions, whole courses of ashlar, My eyes drink its sacred night, where, without earthly distraction, I have tried to see The brothers have their silence, they levered and heaved them, prised them from alcoves or lifted the brighter wonders of Our Lord. I have mine. the stones where they lay, stones that masons had quarried and carved, His silence sings in my ears. Here have I always listened for Him, They walk on dressed to fit, to bear all that weight, to frame the arc of an apse, praying for footsteps. And though none comes, And do not notice the mason’s boy define the walls of a cell or raise the chancel steps; where but here could I try, since these thick stones Whose rag-wrapped hands tremble wall out the trampling of the ungodly? Above the stone, in awe yes even the rubble of flint was picked over, removed Here I have looked for a stillness that does not pass; for Of secrets it has to reveal. and re-used to prop up a bank or mark out a boundary, its air is not touched by storms or seasons. The brothers have their silence, as all that had felt so solid and lasting became scattered A new home waits for us – I have mine. and smudged – obscured, but never entirely erased – while the past where the stones have grown no memories; where the walls are pierced by arcs that boast half of God’s perfection, Just one chance. was sewn over, re-wrought, and what made the Abbey was stitched and leak His holy darkness into the world. My Master has entrusted me – in the fabric, the everyday texture and grain of this place. A column capital – Our Abbot speaks. Not on view to those below, SB 10/2013 ‘My brothers: Yet seen by Him above. Today we carry the glory of a church That grew the faith of the greatest of our kings, Aelfred, Our Father has His silence, and which I have mine. We have guarded the holy remains of Saints, and the King’s gift of the great Gold Cross. Ready now Now, just as Christ To cut, to chisel, to carve. was ordered by the unworthy to walk the road out of His My apprentice strokes capital, Are guided by hands Unseen, Brian Evans-Jones so we are made to leave our ancient seat. And just as Christ, As a carpenter’s through wood. Effacement our Lord and Strength, walked not in bitterness Of course they have to go – but in glory, so shall we do this day. The stones have their silence, and take the bones of their hero king with them. We will be exposed to the scorn of the unlearned, I have mine. The new men – strangers – build their ostentation who think we are debased; they will taunt us, on a trodden land. just as they laughed at Him. My tools ring. And just as he carried his True Cross, Angels out of stone appear, The monks prepare the which seemed his shame but became his power, so shall we To chant the love of the Father, procession, follow To sing of the tree of life. shouldering packs and relics. our great Cross of gold, that God has given to us Dedication and decoration as one. For the last time, they stand in the dark ship to show that we go only to a greater glory. that has carried them all their souls’ days; So brothers: do not palter with those who mock you. The stones have their voices, where they have closed their eyes to earthly things Let your dignity be your retort. I have mine. the better to hear His footsteps in the night. Hold your eyes to the earth from which all that is worldly For the last time, they wait at the door. One coughs. Another comes I leave my mason’s mark – grunts a sour joke. No-one laughs. and to which we soon return, but think, Three soaring arches, hidden strokes. as you look on that mire and dirt, whose everlasting Cross you Unexamined, unmastered Then they are out, follow, I have no right to claim on their pilgrimage, shuffling how bright shall be His day. This stone as mine. under air that reeks of devils, Open the doors.’ The stones have their voices, under snorts of children and swine. While the sun on King Cnut’s cross The novices swing them open, and our deep darkness I have mine. hurts like a pillar of fire. is gone forever. In the sun that slants from the south, I see My tools still, BEJ 2010 our dust flee out, When my work is done. be, for a moment, fire. The stonecutter’s boy, The air that swells into the holy dryness Silent and forgotten is rank and ripe; on it is ploughed dirt, the procreation of Except in stone. swine, green leaves as numerous as the devils. The stones have their silence, I see the people, ragged along our road. Their shouts I have mine. And.. gabble like starlings under our roof. MS 01/2010 I look for the last time at these stones that have been the friends of my life. Tears cloud them. A site-specific group installation Now is my time to step forward; and as I enter the light incorporating a number of stones from the sun on King Cnut’s Cross Hyde Abbey. hurts like a pillar of fire.

BEJ 2010 In Hyde Gate Chamber, opposite St Bartholomew’s Church. Please view through north or south apertures. Until 3 Nov.

Susan Wood Nicola Saunderson Russell Moreton Sophie Cunningham Dawe

‘negative capability part I’ is on show at the Link Gallery, West Downs Building, Romsey Road, University of Winchester until 3 Nov

Artists Susan Wood, Nicola Saunderson, Russell Moreton, Sophie Cunningham Dawe

Writers Madelaine Smith, Brian Evans-Jones, Ilse Cornwall-Ross, Stephen Boyce

Local artists and writers respond to the University of Winchester’s Magdalen Hill Archaeological Research Project through the Keatsian approach of ‘negative capability’ – that of ‘being with uncertainty’.