HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR MiniGUIDE Lofoten Classics This MiniGUIDE is designed to be printed and compiled into a compact book- let. For best results it should be printed on good quality A4 paper using a modern colour inkjet printer. Fold MiniGUIDE pages down PRINTER SETTINGS the centre - Choose Landscape printing on a by Andy Hyslop, Jonathan Lagoe and Chris Craggs Good quality colour setting. - Initially print at at full size (100%). Version 2.1 - September 2005 - Ensure that any options such as Shrink oversize pages to paper size are UNCHECKED. - Select any options to Maximize printable area. Printed sides Thank you for downloading this - Select any options to Centre printable area. facing outwards ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE. We hope that (See Problems below) you find the information useful, inspir- ing and accurate. PRINTING - Do not print page 1 (this page). - Print page 2 (the cover) on strong paper, photo The PDF MiniGUIDE system means paper or white card. that we will be able to keep the - Print the rest of the pages on good quality paper. MiniGUIDEs continually up-to-date but to do this we need your feedback. ASSEMBLING Please send any comments you have - Fold each internal page separately down the middle so that the printed sides Insert separate folded pages inside cover page to [email protected]. are facing outwards. - Assemble the pages, with the folded center edge Your subscription to this MiniGUIDE outwards, into a small booklet. includes free updates to future - Wrap the cover around the pages. Staple MiniGUIDES. - Either staple the spine (you will need a strong stapler) or use a plastic binding clip available from or clip stationary shops. Thanks again for your support. PROBLEMS - With some printers (especially HP) it is difficult Fasten with a large stapler, to get the pages to centre properly. Check the or a plastic sliding clip ROCKFAX web site Alan James, September 2005 www.rockfax.com/miniguides/help.html for a solution to this problem LofotenLofoten ClassicsClassics

TheThe SvolvaerSvolvaer GoatGoat FestvågveggeneFestvågveggene GandalfveggenGandalfveggen PrestenPresten SjøsvaetSjøsvaet PillarenPillaren PianokrakkenPianokrakken SvenskeveggenSvenskeveggen BoulderingBouldering

Lofoten Classics MiniGUIDE by Andy Hyslop, Jonathan Lagoe and Chris Craggs

Version 2.1 - September 2005

ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.

Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. © ROCKFAX Ltd. 2005, 2003 Colin Binks on the final exosed of Lundeclubben (E1 5b) at Festvåvegg. LOFOTEN CLASSICS MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Lofoten Classics MiniGUIDE The Lofoten Islands are located off the west coast of Norway north of the Arctic 100km Circle. The area is covered with inspira- by Andy Hyslop, Jonathan Lagoe and Chris Craggs tional mountains of perfect grey granite in some dramatic scenery. As with many Harstad Version 2.1 - September 2005 areas the developed seems ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ to have barely scratched the surface of available climbable rock and yet the Svolvaer Narvik All photos by Andy Hyslop and Chris Craggs established routes are already regarded Goat Melbu as some of the best multi-pitch granite Thanks to Nick Ashton for supplying original route, routes on either side of the Atlantic. Reine Slab The routes included in this MiniGUIDE E-10 Bognes camping and travel information Svolvær are just a small selection of available Stetind ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. South climbing in the area. The rock is gener- Presten Pillar Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. © ROCKFAX Ltd. 2005, 2003 Area Skarberget ally sound with very few loose sections. Moskenes You are quite likely to bump into other Skutvik climbers on the crags described here E-6 COPYRIGHT NOTICE but the atmosphere is always quiet and All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic, friendly with queuing virtually unknown. mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher. The scenery and seascape are second Bodø This file has been branded as belonging to the registered user of the ROCKFAX web site to none. shown below. The entitles the individual to free updates of the same file within the same version number. Any illegal copying of this file by any electronic, mechanical or other How to get there Tromsø means negates this entitlement. Please help us fund more MiniGUIDEs by not distributing Flying – The flights are complex but it is quick and you can this copy. Even if you think you are just printing out an extra copy for one of your friends easily arrive in a day and still get a route in. In 2004 the return do you really know who your friend will give it to? flight cost was around £300. Bodø The flights you will need: FOOTNOTE UK to Oslo, Oslo to Bodø then Bodø to Svolvær. The inclusion of a in this MiniGUIDE does not mean that you have a right www.wideroe.no has some online booking. The last short of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this flight from Bodø can be book online but it is also easy to buy a Trondheim MiniGUIDE are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on ticket when you arrive in Bodø airport and availability is better the accuracy of the description. Climbers who attempt a climb of a particular standard than the website would suggest. There are four flights a day should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that Another option on the Bodø to Svolvær section is to get the Bergen Oslo climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors and 'fast' ferry. This takes about 3 hours but you need to get Stockholm publisher of this MiniGUIDE do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, from the airport to the ferry port. Ferry times are at ovds.no/ or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on engelsk/timetable/ Göteborg this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. From Svolvær airport you can get a bus into town - 40NOK (about £4) and then a bus to Henningsvær. If the bus times don’t match up too well and you are on a mission to get your first route in a taxi will cost around 400NOK (£40). Bus time tables - www.svane.net/lofoten/lofotbussen.htm

Driving - It is obviously handy to have a car when you get there and it gives you the option to bring a lot of gear and supplies, but the journey does take around 20 hours driving from Oslo, and a solid 2 days from Bergen. The ferry from Newcastle costs about More print and PDF publications from £350 each way for a normal-sized car and takes around 24 hours. www.fjordline.com

Car Hire - There is a 'Rent a Wreck' in Svolvær. Lofoten Bruktbilutleie +47 760 80125

Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 1 LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com LOGISTICS LOGISTICS MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

BRITISH TRAD Norwe- UIAA Sport When to Go Symbol Key gian USA Grade (including poorly protected routes) Any time from May to the end of August. Give the Klatrekafe’en a call for the latest condi- A good route Mod tions +47 76 074 911. Note that there is full-on 24 hour daylight from mid May to mid July Moderate Diff so you might want to leave out your head torch and put in some eye shades for sleeping. A very good route Difficult VDiff A couple of good weather sites are: www.dnmi.no/english/ or www.wunderground.com Very Difficult HVD Hard Very Difficult ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ A brilliant route Sev BOLD Severe 3c 4 HS BOLD Hard Severe 4b 4a Technical climbing involving SAFE VS 4+ Very Severe complex or trick moves 5a BOLD 4b 5- SAFE HVS BOLD Hard Very Severe Powerful moves 5a 5b 5 Food and Fuel requiring big arms E1 BOLD SAFE It’s probably worth getting stocked up with food in Svolvær before you head out to 5c 5a 5+ Sustained climbing, either SAFE E2 BOLD Henningsvær. There is a 'Co-op', ‘Rimi’ and 'Rema' supermarket a short way down the long and pumpy or with 6a 5b 6- SAFE street opposite the dock in Svolvær. There is a good small supermarket in Henningsvær, lots of hard moves E3 BOLD 6a 5c 6 and a Beer shop too. Screw-fit gas cylinders are available from petrol stations at about Fingery climbing - SAFE BOLD sharp holds! E4 6a 6+ double the UK price. If you are driving then it is worthwhile buying some supplies in the 6b BOLD UK as many basic foods are about double the price. Beer is much more expensive. Fluttery climbing SAFE E5 7- with big fall potential 6b 6c 7 BOLD SAFE Wildlife Ticks A long reach is E6 6c BOLD 7+ helpful/essential Sea Eagles, Arctic Foxs, Dolphins, Seals, Killer Whales and Sperm Wales can all be 6c 8- 6c E7 BOLD seen if you know where to look. SAFE Colour-coded route number 7a 8 grade bands: 7a E8 BOLD 8+ SAFE Useful Web Sites 1 - Severe and under 7a E9 7a Site dedicated to Lofoten climbing www.svane.net/lofoten/ SAFE General Tourist Information www.lofoten-tourist.no 2 - HS to HVS 7b E10 Online Photo Gallery www.conradscan.de/lofoten.htm 3 - E1 to E3 SAFE Scottish Winter Lofoten Expedition report www.scotlandonline.com 4 - E4 and above 7b SAFE

Where to Stay The Klatrekafe’en in Henningsvær is the centre for information on Lofoten climbing and good place to stay if you want to sleep in a bed. They serve good food. Beer is priced at the going rate for Norway which is about £5 for 0.5 litre! Telephone +47 76 074 911 www.nordnorskklatreskole.no

Camping If you don’t have a car it is best to below Gandalfveggen. This is a good spot, close to the major crags and supplies. Water is available from a pipe coming off the huge black water pipe that runs through the camping! There are no toilets so please bury everything. Walking times on the road - Presten 15 mins, Pianokrakken 25 mins, Henningsvær 30 mins. If you are travelling to this camping spot by bus or taxi ask to get out at a lay-by just after the sign for Festvåg. If you want to be closer to town there is an area on the left immediately after you cross the first bridge to Henningsvær. If you have a car there are numerous camping spots including official sites at Sandvikka and Ørsvågvær, just south of Kabelvåg - c12km north of Henningsvær and a free one at Kallestrand - the parking for 'Paradise' (not described - see local guide). Another popular area is the small meadow below Pianokrakken. The camping area at Festvåg and Henningsvær in the distance Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 2 3 LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com CLIMBING INFORMATION LOFOTEN Festvågveggen MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com About 1km Gear E10 RDO15 min A suitable rack would be: Stem - Set of wires, doubles to 6 and triples in Bastesen Boulders 2, 3 and 4 50m abseil - Cams from 0 to 4 including half sizes with doubles from 1 to 3 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ - Small set of micro nuts Other gear for long routes: - Helmet (recommended at all times). 816 - Light shoes for descents. - Double 60m 8.5mm or 9mm ropes. - Auto-block for . Pillaren Djupforden - Light waterproof jacket. 2 around the Pianokrakken Sjøsvaet corner Guide Book Climbing in the Magic Islands Svenskeveggen by Ed Webster ISBN 82-993199-0-0 This book has been reprinted. Presten Winter Climbing There has always been plenty of winter Presten FESTVÅGVEGGENE on Lofoten but more Festvågvegg consists of 20m abseil two crags close to the first recently some UK climbers have vis- bridge crossed on the road to ited the area and climbed impressive Festvågvegg Henningsvær. Lille (small) is Scottish style mixed routes. The poten- on the left and Store (big) is Gandalfveggen on the right. tial for climbing frozen turf is immense. APPROACH (see map on page There is total darkness in December but HENNINGSVAER 4) - These crags are situated a few hundred metres south March and April have plenty of daylight. AREA east of Gandalfveggen. Use a path which leads up past a ruined block-house via steps Henningsvaer on the right. This was the sup- port for the old Henningsvær The View from the Klatrekafe’en in Henningsvær water tank. 1 2

LILLE FESTVÅGVEGG This is the crag on the left-hand side. 1 Moondance ...... 3pc E3 5c 2 2pc 95m. The main pitch follows an impressive hanging groove Gaukerisset ...... E2 5c cutting through the top overhangs of Lille Festvågvegg. Start 45m. "Cuckoo Crack". A fine crack-line starting in the gully to 3m right of the left-bounding gully. the right of the main buttress. An easy crack leads to tricky 1) 5a, 30m. Climb a crack into a slabby groove then move up moves right and up to gain the main crack. Climb it to the top. slabs to another corner which ends at a belay on top of a flake. FA. O-R Wiik, T Enevold June 1993 2) 4c, 35m. Move left into a square-cut groove until a swing right can be made. Continue up grooves and pillars to a stance DESCENT - Walk right and find slings at the top of Gaukerisset. below the final corner. A 50m abseil down here leads conveniently to the base of 3) 5c, 30m. Climb the groove to the top and swing out right Gaukerisset and time for your second route of the day .... or, if using a hidden jug (rest). Step back left into a left-slanting you have had enough, scramble down the gully to find another crack then go straight up to another short left-slanting crack. fixed abseil point about 25m above the base of the cliff. Move right across the face into a easier crack which leads to the top. FA. T Enevold O-R Wiik 10 July 1993

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Descent RAI 5 min Descent - walk off or abseil

Two abseils,

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 42m and 34m

3

2

1 RDO 15 min

STORE FESTVÅGVEGG This is the crag on the right-hand side.

1 Lundeklubben ...... 2c E1 5b 80m. "Puffin Club". Reach the start by scrambling up to the 2 Skiløperen ...... 3sc E1 5b right of Store Festvågvegg and back left on an easy rake split- 30m. "The Skier". A fantastic one pitch route situtated on the 2 3 ting the upper and lower crag to reach a saddle in the rake. steep face around the corner from Lundeklubben. Some jam- The crux second pitch can be clearly seen from here as a long ming is required low down followed by more familiar hauling 4 right-facing corner with a bulge at the top. on jugs as the route gets steeper and a tricky crux passing 5 1) 5a, 30m. Climb up an easy groove then step right onto a the roof. 1 blunt arete. Move right again into a big right-facing corner FA. A Meyer, T Enevold May 1992 which is climbed to a good ledge. 2) 5b, 35m. Follow the steep corner above, passing the bulge, DESCENT - For both routes walk off easily to the right and and continue up a crack until it fades. Move right into another scramble down to reach the scree below Skiløperen. crack which leads to a ledge. Hand traverse 3m left and climb an easier crack to a large sloping ledge. 3) 4c, 15m. Move up and left to another ledge then finish up the zig-zag cracks in the steep slab - see front cover. FA. A Meyer, T Enevold May 1992

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GANDALFVEGGEN Descent This superb crag has lots of excellent moderate routes and an easy approach. APPROACH (see map on page 4) - From the camping area, follow a path over the water pipe, and just north of a small sea inlet, 12 RDO10 min to the foot of Gandalfveggen in about 5 mins.

1 Gamle Rev...... 2fc E1 5b 11 95m. "The Old Fox". The route follows twin grooves right of the big slanting overhang. 1) 5b, 45m. Easy rocks leads to the groove. Up this then swing left (crux) and continue up easier grooves to a large belay ledge. 10 2) 5b, 50m. Go up the groove behind the belay to a sloping ledge. Then climb a short thin crack on the right wall to another slop- ing ledge. Follow an excellent left-trending finger-crack up the slabby wall to good holds, ledges (possible stance) and the top. FA. E Webster, T Enevold 1993 Slanting 9 Corner

2 Tromsøekspressen ...... 1sc E1 5b ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 95m. "Tromsø Express". The right-hand of the shallow grooves gives another worthwhile couple of pitches with a powerful start. 8 1) 5b, 45m. Easy rocks trend right to below the groove which is entered by some powerful undercutting. Jam and layback this then move right to a shallow technical groove. Up this then step left to a good stance. 2) 5b, 50m. Go up the thin cracks right of the belay, then trend right to a sloping ledge - possible stance. Climb the left-hand side of the large flake then the left-trending finger-crack up the slabby wall to the top. 7 FA. H & S Nesheim 1980

3 Gollum ...... 2c VS 4c 90m. Start left of the big boulder below the left-hand crack. 1) 4c, 40m. From the top of the boulder follow the crack-line by fine climbing past the odd tricky move to where steep bridging moves gain a good ledge. 6 2) 4c, 50m. Step left and follow the crack, grassy in places to where it eases then climb the big flake on the right. From the tip of this climb onto the rib then trend right easily, or better follow the thin finger crack to the top (5a) as for the last route. FA. A Meyer, S Nesheim 1985 5

4 Gandalf ...... 3c VS 4c 95m. Start right of and behind a big boulder. Storhylla 4 1) 4c, 40m. Climb a left-facing groove and short wall, past slings, to a good ledge. 2) 4c, 30m. Move right 5m and pull through the juggy bulge. Step right into a V-groove and climb to ledges - optional belay. Make some delicate moves left across a slab into a crack-line 3 leading past a big ledge on the right, to a steeper section lead- 3 ing into the fine stance of 'The Eagles Nest’. 3) 4b, 25m. Step awkwardly right - exposed, and climb a crack to easier grooves which lead to the top. 3a) 5c, 20m. Do battle with the roof crack of the cave - short- lived but hard work. FA. A Meyer, K O Storvik, B Tollefsen (some aid) 1978 2 2 5 Guns 'n' Roses ...... 2c HVS 5a 1 95m. Start below an open groove, with a tree in it, just right of Gandalf. 1) 4c, 40m. Climb the groove to a dark-coloured bulge. Pull up right on to the arete which is climbed via a thin crack. Continue direct to belay underneath the bulge on Gandalf. 2) 5a, 25m. Follow Gandalf through the bulge into the groove. 1 60m of Move right at its top to an excellent hand-crack which leads to climbing hidden a good ledge and belays. 3) 5a, 35m. Climb up the thin crack, keeping right of the 2 ‘Eagles Nest,’ and follow a groove/crack system to the top. FA. (P1) T Enevold, T Seines 1993, (The main crack of P2) S & H 15m of Nesheim 1979, (P2&3) O R Wiik, G Austrheim 1990 climbing hidden DESCENT - For all routes, make two abseils (42m, 34m) from chains down slabs on the left, or walk off to the left via ledges 1 then scramble down a tricky gully to reach the cliff base.

The initial awkward crack of the classic Gandalf (VS 4c). Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 89 LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com LOFOTEN Presten LOFOTEN Sjøsvaet MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

PRESTEN A huge crag that has everything; a short approach, many fine (and hard!) routes, perfect rock and a straightforward descent. Just its most famous route is described here, a real class act. TDI 30 min APPROACH (see map on page 4) - Presten is situated approx 1km to the north of the campsite (20 mins walk) at Festvag and is easily reached from the road by walking up from a lay-by.

1 Vestpillaren (with The Direct Start) ...... 3sc E2 5b 480m. "The West Pillar" - a World Classic rock climb with fantastic well-protected climbing up beautiful groove systems and Abseil back cracks. There is nothing harder than well-protected E1 5b but it is very sustained and hence it deserves a toughish E2 overall. It downthe route normally takes between 5 to 8 hours for an ascent but it has been done in under an hour.

GEAR - Double 60m ropes, helmet, 10 extenders (some long ones), a full set of wires, with doubles to 6, a small selection of

micro nuts, cams size 0 to size 4, with doubles from 1 to 3, 3 x 120cm slings. Light shoes for the descent, lightweight waterproof ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ (just in case!) water.

Start 20m left of the big grassy gully, up a shallow right-slanting groove between two right trending overlaps. It is reached by a 3m left-traverse on a foot ledge - this start is often wet. NOTE - It is possible to abseil back down from the top of P4 using the Single fixed belays. Above this, retreat is much more difficult. The first four pitches make a good short outing. belay 1) 5a, 45m. Move left into the base of the groove and climb it to ledges. Move left to a wider crack and up this to a fixed belay. 2) 5b, 40m. Continue up the groove-system directly behind the belay. Climb onto a flake/block on the left then make a tricky move up into thin cracks which ease and lead to another fixed belay in a corner. 3) 5b, 45m. Climb the crack directly behind the belay and move into a slim groove over a small roof (1st crux). Continue up the groove until an exit right leads into a clean left-facing corner which is followed to a fixed belay. 4) 4b, 25m. Move up and slightly right then climb a short wall and scramble up right to a fixed belay in the corner on the right- hand end of the big ledge (the ledge is known as ‘Storhylla’). 5) 4a, 30m. Climb up right of a huge block, then follow its right-hand side to belay on its sharp-edged top. 6) 5a, 45m. Move up the crack above the belay to reach an elegant right-facing groove, follow this and its continuation to a large ledge. Traverse 20m left, step down then up and up to another ledge and belay on the crest. 7) 5b, 45m. Climb the groove above with a hard moves (2nd crux) past the bulge at 10m. Move left into thin cracks which lead into a large left-facing corner. Follow this for about 10m to a foothold stance over a small bulge - a fantastic pitch. 8) 5a, 40m. Continue by laybacking up the corner then trend right to a good stance and belay below an unmistakable right-slant- ing corner. This corner can be easily seen from the road. 9) 5b, 45m. Climb the sustained (and photogenic) right-slanting corner to a small ledge. Continue up cracks to easy ground and belay on the right at a good ledge. 10) 4a, 30m. Move easily left to a corner with a detached flake in it. Climb carefully past this and then up left behind a big block and up a groove to a good stance at its top. 11) 5a, 35m. The open groove behind the belay leads to a thin traverse right at its top. Fix a medium wire high in the corner on the left to protect the next bit. Drop down to a ledge and make some tricky moves past a peg and right again into the exit gully. Belay 10m up the gully to protect your second. 12) 55m. Easily up the grassy gully to the top. The exit gully is the huge dyke that can be seen from the road. FA. A Meyer, F T Bjornstad 1980 (the 1st 4 pitches) the upper part had already been done - see below. Three fixed FFA. H C Doseth, H Nesheim June 1979 wires

2 Vestpillaren Original Start ...... 2sc HVS 5a 175m. The original start provides a good alternative, though it is less fine than the Direct Version. Start up the huge grassy gully on the right-hand side of the cliff. 1) 4a, 60m. Trend right (loose) and climb the gully to where it eases. The grassy rock to the left may be an alternative! 2) 4b, 40m. Climb left past some loose looking flakes, along ledges and up a shallow groove to a belay in the huge corner. 3) 5a, 40m. Climb the wide crack directly behind the belay and its continuation by laybacking and jamming to a fixed belay a short way below the big roof. 4) 5a, 35m. Climb to the roof then traverse left (high by The Festvåveggs Gearup on a 1 undercutting or low across the slab) to reach an easier groove. Small lake flat ledge Up this to the fixed belay at the top of P4 of the Direct Start. Continue or abseil off. FA. A Meyer, B Tollefsen 18 June 1978 (all the way to the top!)

DESCENT - Follow the well-worn path east along the ridge, dropping off left to a traverse-line leading out to a col. Make a long descent of the steep grassy gully and eventually traverse to the right across grass slopes and scree to the small lake below. Or trend right from the col (looking down - tricky to fol- low) to reach the ridge descending to the lake - cairned path. From here a good leads down past the Festvågveggs and on to the road. About 1 to 1½ hours. Steep grubby approach

Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 10 11 LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com LOFOTEN Sjøsvaet LOFOTEN Pillaren MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com SJØSVAET - SEA SLAB A superb slabby face above the south shore of Djupfjorden. The thrash up through undergrowth is not too bad if you follow the approach description carefully and it is easily worth the effort for the quality of climbing. APPROACH (see map on page 4) - From parking at the end of RDI45 min the causeway aross Djupfjorden, hop along the boulder beach for 70m until just short of the power cables. Head up, trending slightly right (poor path), looking for a scree shoot which is directly in line with the power cables. Walk up boulders and when they disappear dive back into the undergrowth and head straight up to the lowest rocks. Some grass scrambling (useful trees!) leads to a good ledge on the left at the foot of the route. ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 1 Solens Sønner ...... 3c E2 5c 135m. "Sons of the Sun". Superb face and thin . 1) 5a, 30m. Step left and follow a polished groove until it is possible to climb up into a chimney/cleft. Step left off the top Abseil down to of the huge flake, climb up then traverse right along a break to the right of the a fixed belay (3 nuts) below a steep wall. route line 2) 5c, 50m. Climb the steep cracks to where it eases. Arrange some wires on the left wall of the groove, step back down and make a smeary traverse left and then up into a thin crack (crux). Climb the crack until it fades (small cam) and make a hard step right into then next crack and up to a bolt belay. 3) 5a, 30m. Follow the superb, shallow, dog-leg crack past a bolt at its top and then trend left on face to a single bolt belay. 4) 5a, 25m. Start up the blunt arete and climb past 2 bolts to another stance where the slab ends and the jungle starts. DESCENT - Make 3 or 4 abseils back to the base. FA. E Webster, O-R Wiik 16 August 1993

1

Colin Binks on Solens Sønner pitch 3.

Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 12 13 LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com LOFOTEN Pillaren LOFOTEN Pianokrakken MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

PILLAREN Superb situated in the beautiful valley of Abseil off (50m) Djupfjorden, the sea inlet north of Presten which is crossed by RSI5 min or walk down to Walk off the main road. There is a beautiful lake hidden up the valley. the right APPROACH (see map on page 4) - This approach is more (looking in) complex than it looks and takes between 50mins and 1 hour. Follow the path on the north side of the fjord to the moraine. Cross this then 200m further on the path drops down through a jumble of boulders (cairn) then up a broad gully between two steep slabs. Trend left keeping another steep slab to your right before climbing steeply to the foot of the route. It is easy to 2 lose the path (look for the trodden trail) after the land bridge 3 and the Webster guide seems to be incorrect here. ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 1 Bare Blåbær...... 3c VS 4c 170m. Start below a left-facing corner just to the right of a prominent gully. The name means Only Billberries - a Norwegian expression for 'a bit of a doddle'. 1) 4b, 20m. Climb the slab and corner to a good ledge below a steep crack. 2) 4c, 40m. Climb the superb crack to where the angle eases and continue to a small ledge below a steep left-facing corner. 3) 4b, 40m. Follow the corner to where it gets thin, then swing right into a crack on the face. Continue to a ledge. 1 4) 4b, 35m. Climb a flake in the back of a corner to where there are few loose cobbles in the back of a crack, then pull out right to another crack. Continue to a bolt belay. 3 5) 4c, 35m. The steep hand-crack above gradually gets nar- 2 rower until a short traverse right can be made. Finish with a few face moves to a fixed belay. EDO10 min FA. T Hansen, I Raastad 1986

There are 2 more pitches but it is better to abseil from here. PIANOKRAKKEN This is a good crag to start on since there is a classic easy route on the west face and two well-protected moderate routes on the DESCENT - 3 x 50m abseils to the right (looking in) of the south face. Also it is only minutes from the road. route. The second abseil goes into the big groove below rather APPROACH (see map on page 4) - Follow a path along the north shore of Djupfjorden for a 100m then head directly up to the than staying on the slab. crag on a good path. If you are just going to climb Pianohandler Lunds Rute it is faster to approach on a good path from the road just north of the cutting. Jonathan Lagoe at the end of pitch 5 on Bare Blåbær 1 Pianohandler Lunds Rute...... 2c HS 4c 100m. Nice climbing broken by big ledges. There are lots of possible variations, particularly in the upper section. Start on a ledge, with some telegraph poles, below the prominent left-slanting groove. 1) 4a, 35m. Climb the corner then slabs and a short steepening to a big ledge. 2) 4b, 20m. Climb up cracks on the right then smear up a slab to reach the right end of the the 'hand traverse'. Up this to another big ledge with assorted belays. 3) 4c, 20m. Traverse right along a fault ledges and climb through a bulge to gain a steep groove. Up this and a short jamming crack to a good ledge - a great pitch. 4) 4c, 10m. Climb the short awkward crack (crux!) to a big ledge. 5) 4c, 20m. Climb the centre of the face to bulges then head up and left to thin cracks which give a good finale. The hnad crack on the left gives an easier finish - 4b. FA. A Meyer, K Skog, U Prytz 1971

DESCENT - Scramble up and left to gain the upper end of a steep gully, descend this with care - it is steep and loose.

2 Apple Cake Arete ...... 1c VS 5a 60m. Start at the foot of the arete below a tree-filled corner. 1) 4c, 40m. Move easily up and left onto the arete proper which is followed through a couple of bulges (some common climbing with Lys og Skygge). Belay at the bottom of a hand-crack. 2) 5a, 20m. Climb the crack to the top - quite testing. FA. O-R Wiik, E Webster, T Enevold, L Fagerli 13 August 1991

3 Lys og Skygge ...... 3fc HVS 5a 55m. Starts at the foot of the ramp on the right-hand side of the south face. 1) 5a, 20m. Climb the ramp then a steep fingery wall and thin cracks to a belay on the left below a roof. 2) 4c, 35m. Step left and climb the wall then the arete for 12m until a step right can be made into a groove. Up this to the chain. FA. (P1) E Webster, T Solberg 2 August 1991. (P2) E Webster, T Enevold 3 August 1991

DESCENT - Either make a spectacular free abseil (50m) off the fixed chain (auto-block recommended) or walk off left (looking in).

Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 14 15 LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c od ng a 0-40 y! the d Store t turn VS 4b rockfax.com from

Approaching The Goat. 2sc GUIDES Mini Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c HS 5a HS 5a VS 5c E3

but keep right up a flake 2c From the roundabout in Svolvær turn left (Signed E10/Fiskebøl) and follow this for 0.7 mile 3hc 3sc 1910 Ruta Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Version Svolvaer Goat The diagonal crack spitting the front face of Continue up the deep groove-system on left to diagonally left across the steep and exposed Trend Continue up the deep groove-system on left to The thin crack in the steep groove leads to an over- Descend left to the foot of a steep crack, climb this, Struggle up the leaning groove to reach a resting ledge then step out onto steep face on left and plough An awkward start up the right-hand groove leads to Start as for the Traverse right (bolt) and climb the thin crack Traverse From the Lower Horn use bolts in Upper to abseil into notch (tricky take-off) reaching ledges and a sec- LOFOTEN Rapellruta . Rapellruta . 1910 Ruta Baksida . . Englevinger LOFOTEN 17 towards a quarry then almost immediately branch right on a path signed STI TRACK. Follow the up slab and through at this point bear right towards The Goat, passi It weaves up this then emerges onto a shoulder, boulders into the steep gully. perennial stream. Either scramble to the col or cut diagonally across steep grass slope base of Forsida Ruta - 3 mins from the parking - care required in wet. The traditional approach to Goat has long been up the eastern gully but this is steep(er) and loose(r)! DESCENT - ond set of chains - 15m. From here make a 28m abseil to the grassy col behind tower. THE SVOLVAER GOAT THE SVOLVAER on the hillside behind areas main town, with two giant blocks of 'the horns' balanced An amazing tower of rock perched on its crest. The first ascent of Goat in 1910 was a seminal point the history of Norwegian climbing, in a two week peri Klokktinden on Lofoten. It is 'traditional' to jump the gap between horns, though fortunately this isn't actually compulsor a lef loop right and again then turn left into Blåutindveien. Park sensibly on the by school/playing-field. Take 1 Fine climbing up the line of abseil descent, steep and juggy after a tough start. 1) 4b, 28m. the ladder of jugs following a crack-line to reach ledge and twin bolt belay. 2) 4a, 20m. left past a reach the gap between horns (views!). Traverse fat old peg to reach the western arete of Big Horn and climb this to the top. Cross gap (jump or crawl) belay. 2 A great route and an astounding effort for its day; the climb remains steep and intimidating, with an atmosphere second to none and a finish to die for! 1) 5a, 22m. ledges, continue up a flake and steep juggy groove/chimney to a stance on the right with spike belays, short distance below the shoulder. 2) 4a, 12m. wall on a line of superb jugs to locate good stance and twin bolt belay round the arete. 2) 4a, 20m. left past a reach the gap between horns (views!). Traverse fat old peg to reach the western arete of Big Horn and climb this to the top. Cross gap (jump or crawl) belay. CW Rubenson, AB Bryn, F Shcjelderup 1910 FA. 3 A combination of good pitches makes for a popular outing. 1) 4a, 24m. then follow the groove to notch and a good stance. 2) 5a, 20m. Finish. The start is the crux, then con- Wall Goat is The West tinue to the notch, traverse left gain western arete and finish up this to the top of Big Horn. Cross gap belay on the Little Horn. 1928 (P1) G Santesson, E Tjerneld 1938 (P2) B Bommen, Lyche FA. 4 "Angel Wings", a good hard route that sees few ascents. The line is obvious, start down and right of the col, at a cleaner area reached by an exposed scramble! 1) 5c, 30m. before moving back left then heading direct to a good stance. 2) 5c, 35m. hang, power over this and continue to the shoulder. 3) 5c, 20m. gradually widening, to an action-packed finish. OR Wiik 1993 A Meyer, E Webster, FA. the same team made the first ascent of Stetind on the Mainland (after sailing up the fjord to reach it!), as well as Trakta, an the same team made first ascent of Stetind on Mainland (after sailing up fjord to reach it!), as well Trakta, APPROACH (see map on page 1) - (1.1km) to a left turn just beyond the fire station (which is on right) into Nyveien, signed Melkerdalen/Nybyen. Follow

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16 g. he ....! E3 5b HVS 5a Riene Slab LOFOTEN WHI 2 3hc 2hc Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Version LOFOTEN 1 Upper section very forshortened Park on the right and cross road! rockfax.com from

Move left then climb the face before trending right to a stance at base of huge flake laid on slab. Climb the flake to its end then trend left across slab before climbing base of a thin crack. Climb straight up the blank slab (effectively unprotected) to a poor stance at down-pointing flake. right via the occasional flake (poor protection) to a stance at base of long curving overlap. Trend Move right to the second overlap and follow crack stance. Easy climbing leads to the ledges above slab. Climb direct via scoops and grooves to a stance in shallow corner - old bolt belays. Keep in the same line to a loose flake then traverse left belay at base of crack up right side huge flake. Layback the flake (crux 5+) then move right at its top to a stance, or climb slab on (5) same place. Easy climbing leads up a dyke to the ledges above slab. Trend right via friction and the occasional flake to a stance in base of shallow groove. Trend Arch. Climb the crack past an old bolt to its end then continue in same line a stance at base of The Webster Follow grassy grooves rightwards to a stance. More grass and rock lead to a small stance at white flake. A friction slab leads to an overlap and above this things ease. Continue ledges. There is a line of bolt anchors (old and not in very good condition) that roughly follows the line of Sea Breeze, or head DESCENT 4 x 50m abseils GUIDES plus some scrambling . The American Tourist Sea Breeze . Mini Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c left into the gully and abseil scramble down this - usually wet! THE RIENE SLAB A huge barrel shaped buttress right above the road, just north of small town Riene. Those who arrive via ferry to Moskenes will drive past its toe on their way north. The slab only has two routes (as opposed to the 20+ it would have anywhere 1 Fine but very bold climbing (though both these routes get 5+ in the local guide) up left-hand side of slab - only for t 4 August 1991 T Enevold, A Bergwall, E Webster FA. 2 The natural line of the slab is also bold and has a rather scrappier upper section, though there plenty good climbin T Enevold August 1991 T Enevold, L Fageri (to top of pitch 3) May 1991. Whole route E Webster, FA. else in Europe) and both are poorly protected and have lines that are tricky to follow. Despite this - if you are in the area.. else in Europe) and both are poorly protected have lines that tricky to follow. APPROACH (see map on page 1) - DESCENT - committed! Start 100m left of the flake at toe slab, where there is a small grass ledge amongst ferns. 1) 4c, 30m. 2) 5a, 45m. 3) 5b, 50m. 4) 5b, 45m. 5) 5a, 50m. 6) 5a, 45m. 7) 4a, 50m. Start at the toe of buttress on top a fallen flake. 1) 4b, 35m. 2) 4b, 35m. 3) 4c, 50m. 4) 5a, 45m. 5) 4c, 40m. 6) 4c, 45m. 7) 4c, 45m. 7) 4a, 50m. tle Horn. VS 5a rockfax.com from

3sc GUIDES Mini 5 Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c

4 if at all damp Approach path Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Version require care, especially and descent gully both 40 min Svolvaer Goat - West Face Svolvaer Goat - West The groove leads to a shoulder, then its continuation ends at a good stance. The groove leads to a shoulder, Finish. The start is the crux, then continue to Wall The diagonal crack spitting the face of Goat is West Trend left to the base of prominent crack then finger and hand-jam this, before moving right back an Trend Climb over blocks to reach the diagonal cracks that split face above. The initial wide section is awkward then Start at a worn area below the south west arete of The Goat. Climb short steep wall then slant left up rib (or LOFOTEN Forsida . Forsida RDO LOFOTEN 19 5 A great climb, often considered to be THE Lofoten classic, if you are on the island make effort get this one done. 1) 4a, 34m. easier groove on the right) to easy ground. Follow a horizontal crack out right and belay little higher. 2) 4a, 14m. 3) 4c, 30m. exit onto a slab. A little higher cross the ridge to reach huge terrace of 'the sofa'. 4) 4c, 30m. (excellent gear) to a stance on the shoulder. easier climbing leads to the base of a thin section. Up this by finger-jamming 5) 5a, 20m. notch, traverse left to gain the western arete and finish up this tip of Big Horn. Cross gap belay on Lit 1928 Finish, B Bommen, Lyche Wall The West A Krane 1947, FA. W Höyer, FA.

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 18 4 5 Svolvaer Goat - North Face Version 2.1 - Sep 2005 Version 4 2 LOFOTEN LOFOTEN 3 2 New approach/descent 1 Jump (or not) rockfax.com from

40 min GUIDES YDO Old approach/descent Mini Registered to Mark Catt REF 29e1d02c MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com LOFOTEN Svenskeveggen LOFOTEN Bouldering MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

EFP2 min

No lower-offs on most of these BOULDERING The bouldering potential is massive and you can find plenty to do where ever you look. According to those in the know it is of very high quality. However there are ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 4 9 a couple of popular areas 6 which are well worth a visit.

12 7 1 2 10 8 11 13 3 5 Jonathan Lagoe attempting The Roof Crack on the Presten boulders. PARKING - 2 mins PRESTEN BOULDERS This popular area gives inspirational bouldering of all standards with plenty of easier and some awesome roof prob- lems including the most hideous-looking thin-hand, roof crack east (and west!) of Seperate Reality. APPROACH (see map on page 4) - It is situated south along the road from Presten, at a high point in the road, and on a bend.

SVENSKEVEGGEN 6 Jammerfest ...... 1sc E2 5c This small steep crag has some bolted routes and trad crack 14m. The evil looking roof crack is a must for homesick grit- climbs and is good for a short day. It looks a bit small from a stoners. Take some big gear. distance but it is actually bigger than it appears courtesy of the FA. J Halvardsson hidden starts. It dries quickly after rain. Although stretching the title 'Lofoten Classics' a bit, these routes do offer an easily 7 Steapstone ...... 1tc 7b+ accessible work-out, and are usually quite sheltered. 14m. The right wall of the crack and precarious ramp above. APPROACH (see map on page 4) - It is situated on the FA. J Halvardsson south side of a knoll, on the opposite side of the road from Pianokrakken, and is reached by a short scramble. 8 5c Project? ...... ? The Presten Boulders. 1 1nc 14m. The centre of the wall above the left-hand crack is an Frøken Sverige ...... E2 5c unknown quantity/project. 14m. The steep cracks on the far left. FA. S Thyr 9 Arbetsskygg ...... 1sc E4 6a 2 1tnc 14m. Gain the steep upper flake crack by a tough start up the Du Gamla Du Fria E5 6b left-hand crack in the lower wall. STEN BASTENSEN BOULDERS (see map on page 4) 14m. Trend right to the horizontal break then sprint direct. FA. K Petterson FA. 'Gier', 'Rune' This area consists of several separate boulders situated about 1.3km west from the junction with the E10 and the Henningsvær 3 1tnc 0 Snickar Glädje ...... 2sc E4 6a road. It is easily recognised by the name ‘Stem Bastensen’ writ- Madelene ...... E4 6a 14m. The 'classic' crack with a steep start and pumpy finish. ten in white paint on a roadside boulder (only visible when north- 14m. The left-hand of the right-trending cracks and wall above. FA. D Gått, and an unknown Swede 1995 east-bound). Most of the problems here have indifferent landings, FA. S Thyr don't forget the pad. q Rejsfeber...... 1tc 7c 4 Blåval Superstar...... hc E5 6a There are a couple of boulders just north of the graffiti with roof 14m. The desperate wall just right of the flake crack. 14m. Start as for the next route but finish up the bold arete. and arete problems. In the other direction there is a big boulder FA. P Restorp FA. P Restorp on the boulder-beach with a telegraph pole right behind it. This w 1tc boulder boasts, in the words of Marius Morstad, “Lofoten’s best 5 Blåklokka...... 1nc E1 5b I Rampelyset ...... 7c boulder problem” (until he finds a better one!). It starts from 14m. The right-hand crack leads to the bolted head-wall. 14m. A steep right-trending crack leads to a finish up a small finger jugs and finishes with a scary sloping mantle. FA. R Caspersen, K Petterson groove. There is a harder Direct Start just to the right. FA. D Niels Poulsen, O-R Wiik 1989 A 100m back south along the road a pointed white boulder can e I Rampelyset Direct . .1tc 7c be seen up in the birch trees (photo to the right). This area was The rest of the routes are on the right-hand side of the wall, 14m. A independant start up the wall just to the right. cleaned up by some members of the Norwegian Army under the the bolted routes and are given sport grades. FA. 'Knut' command of Marius. The rock is fine granite and has features remarkably similar to Fontainebleau.

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