1 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 17
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Front Bodice #1 1/2” facing extension cut 1 fabric on fold cut 2 with facing cut 2 interfacing use for:
grainline d l
layout o f
cutting fabric t n
pattern markings o r darts f r e
seams t n
collars e closures c 2
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 2 Chapter 4
h Chapter 6 c t
o Chapter 17 n s t n i o p h s c k t 2 c a # u m t e c t o i t r d a h o d c b t r i t t o n s f o r f s n i t o n 2 j i e o # n l p r c h e e r t c i c k t t i c c a a t d u p m a t o e t o 2 h B t r # t a t h e o d c t t n t e r i 1 l o t o # r p f s F e m c o i c d o o t b 3
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6
Back Bodice #1 cut 2 fabric m
a use for: e s grainline k c d layout l a b o
f cutting fabric r k e
t pattern markings c a n e
b darts c r seams r e t o n f collars e e c r e h t u c 4
stitch to matchpoints for dart tuck front bodice #2
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 2 Chapter 4 notch Chapter 6 Chapter 17
stitch to matchpoints for dart tucks Back Bodice #2 5 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 4 d l o f
French Curved Dart n o e c
front bodice #1 a l cut 1 p t n o r f r e t n e c 6
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 4
French Curved Dart 7
Chapter 4
Fisheye/Contoured Dart fisheye/contoured dart cut 1 in fabric d l o f . f . c 8 Chapter 4
notch notch
stitching line
this is not the stitching
line – it is a guide to show d l o
the difference between the f
curved stitching and straight n o
dart line e c a l p – t n o r f r e t n e c
Curved Waist Dart cut 1 in fabric 9 Chapter 5
facing cut 1 interfacing
fold line notch notch Square/Round Patch Pocket
cut 1 10
Chapter 5
opening welt pocket lining cut 1 here
Square/ Round Patch Pocket Lining cut 1
use for: welt pocket cut 1 in fabric cut 1 lining (as above) 11
Chapter 5
width
cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing Pocket Flap 12 Chapter 5
t
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f
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t
n
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c
cut 2
Shorts Front with Angled Side Pocket 13
Chapter 5
Angled Side Pocket Lining cut 2 14
Chapter 5
p o c k e t p l a c e m e n t
Angled Side Pocket
cut 2 cut on fold 15 d l o f n
Chapter 6 o t
Chapter 10 u c h n
Chapter 15 c e t h o w n
cut 1 on fold for gathered seam cut 1 on fold for faced ruffle cut 1 on fold for single ruffle cut 1 on fold for straight narrow rolled hem
Straight Fabric Section
cut 1 fabric here on fold for eased seam e l f f u r e l g n i s r o f e r e h t u c 16 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 6 Chapter 11
Princess Seamprinces Fronts seam Bodice #1 matchpoint front bodice #1 notched/lapel collar cut 2 fabric t n o r f r e t n e c
to complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle 17
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 6 Chapter 11
Princess Seam front bodice notched/lapel collar #2 18 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 6 Chapter 11
Princess Seam Side Front Bodice cut 2 fabric
front bod notched/l collar #2 19
Chapter 6 e v c r i r u b C a f e 1 v t a u c c n o C 20
Chapter 6 e v r c i u r b C a f x 1 e t v u n c o C 21
Chapter 6 Chapter 9 Chapter 12 Chapter 15
matchpoint
FrontSkirt
cut 1 fabric
use for: v shaped seam waistband waist facing d
bias waist finish l o
curved a line hem f . bias false hem f . c 22
Chapter 6 Chapter 9 Chapter 12
Front Yoke cut 1 fabric cut 1 interfacing use for: v shape seam d waistband l o f
waist facing . f
bias waist finish . c
ma tch po int 23 Chapter 6 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 12 Chapter 15
mark dart point here
Back Skirt cut 2 fabric
use for: seams zippers waistband waist facing bias waist finish curved a-line hem bias false hem 24
Chapter 6
matchpoint
Godet
cut 1 25 Chapter 6
Princess Seam Strapless Front Bodice
cut 1 fabric cut 2 underlining d l o f . f . c
notch 26
Chapter 6
cut 2 fabric cut 2 underlining
Princess Seam Strapless Side Front Bodice 27 To complete the pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle to complete pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle k d n e t n i f r h o e e c t v p t c l n o h i e n a x t o b n o t c P h b i l u n o e a s c v x l a e u e l k t r t f p n o s t 1 l e i , r e f d # : a e n t 1 s o h c t ( t t c o h o p n a n d b k o n t i f t e o m p l ) e a t d e t n r o h e c t v t c n h o i n x o b k d n e i t f e r e v n i notch all pleats (top and bottom) notch notch notch
pleat knife pleat knife pleat
Pleats #2
cut 1, use for: cle cir inverted t a box knife #2 o t 1 # s t a ple join n er tt a p e et mpl o c o t
To completeTo the pleats join pattern #2 at #1 to circle
d e t r e v n i x o b d e t r e v n i x o b x o b
h c t o n h c t o n h c t o n 28 29 notch
Chapter 7 Chapter 16
matchpoint
matchpoint Kick Pleat use for: kickpleat (cut 2 fabric) cut 2 hem split (cut 2 fabric) interfacing vent cut (1 fabric w.s.u) for hemsplit e n
cut 1 for vent i l d l o f
notch 30 Chapter 7
matchpoint
Kick Pleat Underlay cut 1 fabric 31 Chapter 8
Flyfly Frontfront
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1
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c 5
matchpoint 32
Chapter 8
Fly Front Extension
cut 1 fabric cut 1 interfacing 33 To complete the pattern, join waistband #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 9 1 # d 1 n # 2 a d n # b t a 2 b m s # d t i a d n s e a i c n s i a a a r e W w b b b d t t t i t a s s s f h cut 1/2 cut 1/2 i h i g a c n i i a g i interfacing interfacing w a i r t r t b W a t u h a r c s t f t g i 1 h S a t r g t u i c s a r t S b c
to complete the pattern, join n o
waistband #1 to #2 at circle. i s n e t x e 34 hpe 15 Chapter 10 Chapter r c e m o g u s d ir ole in s at ve o ge stit e cul ck gle h a rl o f er d s r: ar pi ed fl ea hem ch ng o m nar f unce lou ( ( flo (cut cu cu ro nc t t un w (cu 1 1) 7) e ) c Flounce (cut e t 1 (cut fl ) ou 2) 2) n ce cutting line grainline
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o t l c
1 f h / e
4 l e h
1/ ” g c e
2 s in n r e e ” am r s u
a a fo lo f
llo llowance f o
wa red r
nce f athe n or g a
r
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l
l
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d
h
e m 35
Chapter 11 d l o f . b . Mandarin Collar c cut 2 cut 1 interfacing 36
Chapter 11
Shirt Collar c . b
cut 2 . f cut 1 interfacing o l d 37
Chapter 11
Notched/Lapel cut 1 Upper Collar d l cut 1 interfacing o f . b .
c matchpoint 38
Chapter 11
Notched/Lapel Under Collar cut 2 on bias matchpoint 39 To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle
matchpoint Notched Lapel Collar Facing #1
cut 2 cut 2 interfacing
1
ed/lapel to complete the pattern facing #2 join facing #1 and #2 at circle 40
To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle c
b cut 1 f o l d
notched/lapel to complete the p collar facing #2 join facing #1 an 41
Back Neck
d Facing l o f b c cut 1 42
Chapter 12
c.f. fold k c g e n N i g c t n i a n c F a o f r c i r F e r t b n a i f d d l l o o f f n n o o 1 1 t t u u c c t n o r f 43
Chapter 12 B N a e c c k k S F a q c c c u u u i t t n a 2 2 g r e f i n a t b e r r i f c a c i n g 44
Chapter 12
Back Waist Facing cut 2 fabric cut 2 interfacing 45
Chapter 13 n n o o
cut 2 fabric t t
Continuous Placket c c h h e e s s shirt sleeve placket cut this length 46
Chapter 13 f o l d l i n Shirt e Sleeve Placket
cut 2 fabric 47 Chapter 13 n o t c h t u c k t u c k Tucked Shirt Sleeve
cut 2 fabric n o t c h 48
Chapter 13 t t e e e r k k e c c h a a l l o p p t e s h v t u e g o e cut 1 /2 interfacing l n u e s n l i t t f r f n i u h o c c s h t
g Cuff n cut 2 e l f f u c t u c 49
Chapter 14
Full Size Front Armhole Eased Set-in Sleeve
cut 2 50 To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 12 Chapter 14
Full Size Back Armhole #1 Eased Set-in Sleeve
cut 2 51
To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 12 Chapter 14 2 # e e l v o e h e l m S r A n i - k t c e 2 a t S u B c d e e z s i a S E l l u F 52
match notch to shoulder seam Chapter 14
Front Set-in Sleeve cut 2 53
Chapter 14
Back Set-in Sleeve
cut 2 54 notch Chapter 15
matchpoint
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Vent vent cut 1 fabric interfacing w.s.u. cut 1 e n i l d l o f
notch 55
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Hem Split Lining Chapter 16 hem split lining use for: hem split (cut 2 in lining) vent (cut 1 lining w.s.u.)
matchpoints
notch 56
notch Chapter 16
Ventvent Lininglining cut 1 w.s.u.
matchpoint
notch 57 Button and Buttonhole Placement Worksheet Shirt with Front Band and Mandarin Collar t t n n o o r r f f r r e e t t n n e e c c
right front left front 58 Button and Buttonhole Placement Worksheet Shirt with No Band or Collar
neckline t t n n o o r r f f r r e e t t n n e e c c
right front left front