Travel Marlborough

TOAST OF THE TOWNS Raise a glass to Havelock, Picton and Blenheim, three charming Marlborough destinations with wining, dining and outdoor adventure opportunities aplenty.

STORY MATT PHILP PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID JAMES Travel Marlborough

homesteads for more than a century. Speaking Clcokwise from above: of history, the Havelock Museum is full of The Pelorus Mail Boat; artefacts from Havelock’s seminal moments, bridge over the Pelorus River; dolphins on an including the Wakamarina gold rush of 1864 E-Ko Tours trip; an and the subsequent period of milling, during Interislander ferry which millions of metres of native timber passes during an E-Ko were shipped from Pelorus Sound. Tours excursion; a Thankfully, some trees were left standing. Pelorus Eco As a , the Pelorus River, which could Adventures kayaking expedition. qualify as one of New Zealand’s most beautiful for the sheer quality of its water, flows through a landscape of stunning podocarp and beech forest. You can experience a taste of this at the Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve, the setting for the barrel-riding scene in The Hobbit: WATER AND WINE – they’re the threads the Desolation of Smaug. But even better is that link three of Marlborough’s main kayaking a section of the river with Pelorus towns. From Blenheim’s cellar doors, to Eco Adventures (kayak-newzealand.com), Havelock’s pellucid Pelorus River and based out of Havelock’s Bluemoon Lodge. Picton’s spectacular Queen Charlotte Sound, Owner Shane Mckay, who with wife this is a province best enjoyed in a boat or Asha founded the operation seven years with a glass of sauvignon blanc in hand. In ago, says they were drawn to the Pelorus some cases, both at the same time. River because of the podocarp forest. But the waterway is also “purpose-built” for TASTE OF THE SEA a safe, family-friendly kayaking operation, It was gold that gave rise to Havelock, the with limpid pools, gentle flow and the odd village at the head of Pelorus Sound, but it is rapid for excitement. the place’s marine riches that draw visitors “We get a lot of people coming with us who today. The town dubbed the “green-lipped have never paddled – even some who can’t mussel capital of the world” has hosted a swim,” says Mckay, who offers a premium seafood festival every March for the past From top: Lunch is private tour and a Hobbit-themed one, both 14 years, while one of its longest-running served by Tracy of which are guided and use beginner-friendly eateries is dedicated to the succulent mollusc. Cacciamani of the inflatable two-person Sevylor kayaks. The best way to enjoy seafood is always at Mussel Pot in Havelock; Drifting down the Pelorus, against a the source. The Greenshell Mussel Cruise the Havelock Museum; backdrop of mātai, kahikatea, rimu and Greenshell Mussel marlboroughnz.com/listings/greenshell- ( Cruise with skipper/ beech forest, you can see why Sir Peter mussel-cruise) takes in the Pelorus and guide Matty Pigou Jackson’s scouts latched onto this location. Kenepuru sounds, culminating in a visit to a (right) and a guest. mussel farm and a tasting of the freshly Previous pages: WILD AT HEART steamed shellfish – paired, naturally, with a Cloudy Bay Vineyards. From Havelock, take Queen Charlotte Marlborough sauvignon blanc. Drive to Picton. A stunning scenic alternative If you’re not a seafood fan, you might to the state highway, the 40-odd-kilometre want to experience the sounds on board route twists through bush-clad hills above the Pelorus Mail Boat (themailboat.co.nz), Pelorus Sound and through Linkwater. which has been delivering to isolated Take it slowly and savour the views.

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Picton was once regarded as the place you passed through to board the Cook Strait ferry or after you disembarked. But with the growing popularity of the Queen Charlotte Track and the emergence of several eco-tourism operations, as well as the recent redevelopment of the marina area, Picton is now a bona fide destination, and the main gateway to the sounds. There are several Picton-based boat operators who will take you to your bay of choice on Queen Charlotte Sound (and can also transfer your luggage if you’re walking the track). Ship Cove is the starting point for the track and was said to be Captain Cook’s favourite New Zealand anchorage. It’s a beautiful spot for a picnic, wineries within striking range, which makes Clockwise from above: or you might want to tramp a section of the a pedal-powered tasting tour a great option. Cloudy Bay Vineyards track and get picked up by the return boat. Explore Marlborough (exploremarlborough. tasting room; cycles Dedicated nature lovers should sign on co.nz) offers guided cycle tours and self- can be hired from Explore Marlborough, for E-Ko Tours’ Wildlife Island Sanctuary guided bike-hire options from a container Blenheim; waitress and Dolphin Cruise (e-ko.nz), a four-hour base next to the Vines Village Becca Fougere and round-trip on a supremely comfortable (thevinesvillage.co.nz) on Rapaura Road. chef Vik Sehrawat at catamaran to predator-free Motuara Island. From there, you can shoot along the Wairau River Wines. The tagline “Adventures for the soul” Wairau River stopbank before connecting nicely captures this experience: we hadn’t with a gravel bike trail, or choose from a even cleared Picton harbour before we handful of alternative loop routes. On a encountered a pod of playful dolphins, and quiet afternoon, it’s an appealing way to that was followed by sightings of fur seals, navigate Marlborough wine country, mollymawks and a New Zealand king shag. pedalling between Cloudy Bay (cloudybay. At Motuara Island, you’ll spot tīeke/ co.nz) and Giesen (giesen.co.nz) and saddlebacks, kākāriki, kererū, tūī, Clockwise from top left: Nautilus (nautilusestate.com), filling your pīwakawaka/fantails and korimako/ Marlborough Lodge; basket as you go. bellbirds – and if you don’t see them, Harvest Restaurant; Marlborough’s reputation as a “gourmet you’ll hear them. Picton War Memorial; province” isn’t solely built on wine, however. early morning in the Many wineries offer platters, while others OPEN-DOOR POLICY Queen Charlotte such as Wairau River do a full lunch service, Sound; It’s the engine room of the New Zealand Maritime Museum. with the emphasis on seasonal local produce. wine industry, and so in Blenheim all roads And then there are the food and wine lead eventually to a cellar door, typically one events, of which Marlborough is justifiably in the neighbourhood of Rapaura Road. proud. The big one is the Marlborough Wine & Dubbed the “golden mile” – in reality it’s Food Festival (wine-marlborough-festival. a fair bit longer than that – this slice of co.nz), hosted in February by Brancott the Wairau Plains is home to some of Vineyard. The 2018 festival was attended by Marlborough’s biggest wine names, with at 8000 people. Expect 2019 to be just as big. least half a dozen more highly regarded marlboroughnz.com

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Play grapevines on Marlborough wine country’s “golden mile”. Built in 1901 OMAKA AVIATION for the Sisters of Mercy, the building HERITAGE CENTRE has been artfully restored and Even if you have only a passing reconfigured to offer 10 suites, some interest in aviation or war history, retaining original features such as the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre stained-glass windows and vaulted is a must-see when you’re in Blenheim. timber ceilings. The tone is nurturing Opened in 2006, the main hangar and relaxed, with attentive but never houses Sir Peter Jackson’s World War I intrusive service. A haven. collection, which includes such gems themarlboroughlodge.co.nz as a Balkenkreuz cross cut from the fuselage of the Red Baron’s Fokker ESCAPE TO PICTON triplane. More recently, the museum A boutique luxury hotel, bar and has opened a hangar devoted restaurant in the heart of Picton, in entirely to World War II. Titled the historic Fifth Bank building and Dangerous Skies, the exhibition across the road from the marina. continues the Omaka experience of There are three accommodation combining restored and replica OXLEY’S BAR & KITCHEN Clockwise from above: options: the serene Sea Room, with vintage aircraft with theatrical – and Dining doesn’t come any better Lauren Cunningham a grand bay-window and timeless realistic – staged scenes, courtesy of located than Oxley’s Bar & Kitchen, (left) and Letitia decor; the three-room, light-filled Weta Workshop. omaka.org.nz right across the road from the Picton Leonard from Oxley’s Modern Suite, with a gas fireplace, waterfront, and behind a heritage- Bar & Kitchen; two of spa bath and view of the sound; and EDWIN FOX MARITIME MUSEUM listed, Italian palazzo-style facade. Marlborough’s finest the wonderful Formal Suite, with Picton’s Edwin Fox Maritime Museum This is a family-friendly gastro pub, offerings, wine and Victorian-inspired decor and a is based around one very large serving classic comfort food such as mussels; Blenheim free-standing French slipper tub. exhibit: the 48m-long timber hull of ribs, steak, freshly caught fish and the wine country. To cap it off, your host is an the Edwin Fox, reportedly one of the like. Wash it down with something accomplished head chef with world’s oldest surviving merchant from the hand-picked selection of an impressive resume. ships. Built in Calcutta in 1853, the Marlborough and Nelson wines. escapetopicton.com Edwin Fox went around the world oxleys.co.nz many times, carrying troops to the Crimean war, Chinese labourers to THE MUSSEL POT the West Indies, convicts to In Havelock’s main street, check out Getting there and settlers to New Zealand, before The Mussel Pot for green-lipped she was refitted in the 1880s to mussels served grilled on the export frozen meat. Stand inside a half-shell or steamed in your choice piece of history. edwinfoxsociety.com of delicious broth. themusselpot.co.nz

SLIP INN Eat MARLBOROUGH If you want to get close to the water, HARVEST RESTAURANT Air New Zealand operates Harvest is aptly named, given its head down to the Slip Inn at Havelock daily non-stop flights to emphasis on showcasing the best of Marina which, among many other Blenheim from Auckland and Marlborough’s gourmet produce on its options, serves excellent seafood to Wellington with connections regularly changing menu. Located in an go with the marine views. www.slipinn.co.nz across the domestic network. understated dining room in the historic Marlborough Lodge, and open to the public for lunch and dinner from Sleep Contact Centre Wednesday to Sunday, Harvest’s theme THE MARLBOROUGH LODGE 0800 737 000 is “simple, fresh, local and seasonal”, Luxury accommodation in a former Holidays Travel Brokers which it delivers with finesse. Victorian convent, set in park-like 0800 737 767 harvestrestaurant.co.nz grounds and surrounded by airnewzealand.co.nz

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