MU LTU M I N PA RV O .

NO TES F RO M THE

LFEA NDTRA VELS

__ o F

JA MES BA TCHELDER ,

A t Lo o mo tiv En in r e e c e R ir d g ee .

By JA MES BA TCHELDER.

SA N FRA NCI SCO

P A I I P E P BLI Hl F R N . C C SS U S G co ,

1 892 .

P BI HRA CEL

HE object o f this w o rk is to give

my friends a slight k n owledge of the places I visited during my trav

f a th els in dif erent p rts of e worl d .

To give a full description o f every

place would make too large a book , so I shall confine myself to de scribing some of the most important Sights t o be

n seen alo g the v a rious routes taken . My first trip of any great note after starting on

w a s t o 1 2 88 . my travels Alaska , in The next h 1 883 . t e was a trip around the world , in During year of 1 884 I made five separate and disti n ct

a n d trips in the United States , Canada , Mexico , .

1 0 0 1 4 4 vi PREFACE .

and have recorded them as such in this work . I

spent the year of 1 885 in different to wns in Cali

forn i a , and have also spoken of them in these 1 886 pages . In I took a trip to the Yellowstone

- 1 88 I t ra e l e d National Park . During 7 v in South 1 888 I ern California , and in visited South and n i . I m Central America made no jour ey of any

1 889 1 890 I se c portance during , but in made a on d voyage around th e world . All of these trips were accomplished with a

o f I great deal pleasure to myself, and have put

‘ w riti n w ith st vl e them in g , no attempt at literary ,

but in a straightforward and sincere manner ,

without a n y inten tion of having it published fo r — sale or for circulation to any exten t merely fo r

the gratification of myself and a few of my most

intimate friends and rel a tives .

I sa need scarcely y that, for me , it brings

back incidents of foreign travel , recalls the place

o f and circumstances , and Opens long vistas de

lightful memories . It may not be out of pl ace to state to others

h ma w o y chance to read this that my life , from PREFACE .

I boyhood up to the time commenced my travels ,

v n was spent at hard labor . I have had no a d a

of so tages in the art wielding words and phrases ,

must give as my excuse for errors that may occur ,

t my lack of experience in literary composi ion , and h Ope due allowance will be made for them

C N TEN O TS.

MY TRI P TO ALASKA MY TRIP AROUND THE W ORLD CONTINUATION O F A TRIP AROUND THE W ORLD CONCLUSION O F A TRIP AROUND THE W ORLD A TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT F ROM CA LI F O R NIA To MASSACHUSETTS A TRIP To MAINE AND N EW HAMPSHIRE / A TRIP To THE N ORTHERN P A RT O F N EW H AMP SHIRE A TRIP TO CANADA AND THE LAKES A TRIP THROU G H THE SOUTHERN STATES AND ME X ICO SHORT TRIPS IN CALI F ORNIA A TRIP To Y ELLOW STONE N ATIONAL P ARK A TRIP To SOUTHERN CALI F ORNIA A TRIP To SOUTH AMERICA A SECOND TRIP AROUND THE W ORLD CONTINUATION O F SECOND TRIP AROUND THE W ORLD 274

X V I C O F EC T 06 . CON LUSION S OND RIP AROUND THE W ORLD 3

D N I N TRO U CTI O .

R N OTES F ROM THE LI F E OF THE AU TH O .

\ 6 1 828 VAS born November , , in the town of Warren , Grafton Cmounty , New Hampshire . My parents , like ost good , honest New

England country people , were not overburdened

‘ ' w b u t h ith this world s possessions ; by ard work , they managed to get a good living from the prod u cts of a farm , situated about two miles from the l village schoo , where I received as much edu cation as I w a s capable of ta king until I w a s ten years old . About that time my father was instantly killed by the falling o f the limb of a tree which h e hi n mo . was cutting , it having struck the head

h s h e This was very ard for my mother , as had a o f o f six large family children , consisting boys

t w o . and girls Fortunately , two of the boys were nearly young men and able to take care of th e I NTRODU CTION .

o f As the care the family devolved upon them , I came to the conclusion that I woul d fi n d some

o f . place where I could take care my self So , at

o f r mt h e the early age ten v e a s I co menced bat e v tles of lif , and ha e been as prosperous ever sinc e as anyone could expect to be u nder the circum stances . Thanks to kind Providence . On leaving home the extent of my baggage was a few changes of linen tied up in a h a n dke r chief, which I carried under my arm . This bun

of dle , together with the suit homespun I had on , comprised the full extent o f my worldly goods . My mother accompanied me about a mile on

me . my way , giving good advice the while Then , i n with tears her eyes , she gave me a kiss and a n i n her p rting blessing , leavi g me with th e j unction that I must be a good boy and come to s e e her as Often as I could . I have faithfully tried to follow her good a d a n vice by living honest , upright life , and have often held o u t a hel ping hand to those who found ’ themselves unequal to the struggle on life s j our

. a nd ney By hard work prudence , I have accu mu l a te d mn n i n a co pete ce that has e abled me to ’ d u l i n e m. g my life s drea of traveling h Many years have passed since t en , and I am an ol d man now ; but that parting scene is as fresh in my memory a s though it were but yester da y ; and should I live a thousand years , I will

always remember it . Poor wom an ! She ne ver INTRODUCTION . xii i

’ had any too much of this world s goods , but I h O pe she 1 s happy n o w and recei ving her reward for the trials and troubles sh e had to endure while battling with the cares of this life . She died about t wenty years ago .

After taking my leave of her I dried my eyes , and , with a sad heart, I walked on till I reached the town of Wentworth , where I found a home w a with a family named Keyser , my ges being ’ my board a nd clothing with three months school ing each winter . The rest of the year I had to work hard , so I had no time to keep up my studies , and wh at little I learned in one winter was nearly forgotten before the next school term be gan . This was the only chance I had in my f youth to get an ed u cation . It is far dif erent with h young boys nowadays . I stayed at e n tw or t about five years , and then my desire to travel and se e some of the world began . I took my

first pleasure trip at this time , and , although a short one , it was none the less interesting . I started on foot to visit an uncle of mine , who i n V lived Burlington , ermont , about one hu ndred miles away . I would walk each day as far asmI coumld , and when night came I would stop at so e t w far house , and ask to be kept overnigh , hich u request was never ref sed . After staying with my uncle about three weeks , I returned in the w a w same y to Went orth , where I found a posi tion in a hotel , which I held for two years . x i v INTRODUCTION .

I then tried several occupations , such as driving team , working at stone work , and learning the a s blacksmith trade . But I w not satisfied with of any this work , and after a Short time fou nd a position as fireman on a locomotive on the New 1 . 848 Hampshire Northern Railway This was in , l d when I was twenty years O . I served as fireman t wo in years , during which time I was badly hurt a

o f t w o collision trains near Grafton Center , which came very nearly making a cripple of me for life ; e f but , fortunately , I recovered entirely from the oo f ts of it, and will state here that , during my

- fi ve e ars thirty v on a locomotive , I have never o n lost any time account of sickness , nor have I recei ved any other than the above - mentioned o n injury a railway . And I was never discharged from any position I ever held , either on a railroad or elsewhere . At the end of two years as fireman ,

I was promoted to the position of engineer, in which capacity I served three years o n that road .

I then went to Illinois , where I found employ ment on the Burlington mand Quincy Railroad , running the mail train fro Chicago to Mendota , 1 . 858 and from Aurora to Galesburg In , after a of fi ve on stay years that road , on account of the

ro v long , cold , snowy winters , together with my ing disposition , I left there and came to California n n with the intentio of engagi g in mining , but not finding it a paying business after trying it a

ou t short time , I started to find some other em INTRODUCTION . V

t . o ployment Leaving the mines , I went Sacra h mento ; not finding anyt ing there to engage in , t o I went Napa City , where I found a man who wanted an engineer to run an engi n e in a sawmill in the redwoods some five miles from Napa . He said he had been imposed upon by men w h o h called themselves engineers , but w om he found ,

n o t after trying , were what they represented 5 themselves to be . He engaged me at $7 per month and board . I found the engine in a bad in condition , but soon put it working order , and n remai ed there ten months , then went to San

Francisco , where I found a position as engineer on — a sand train taki n g the sand from a large hill on Market Street between Third and Fourth to

fill i n the low land at the foot of Market Street .

w a s After the sand hill removed , a passenger

ol d train was run to the Mission Dolores , and I I n was charge of the first engine on that road , 1 863 and held the position until , when a local railroad w as built in Oakland connecting with steamers at the end of a long wharf for San

Francisco . I was the first engineer engaged on h 1 883 t is road , and served until , making twenty f years o steady employment . During these twenty years I took several trips to different parts of California , taking in Los Angeles , Riverside ,

San Bernardino , Santa Monica , Pasadena , Yosem ite Valley , the Geysers , and Lake Tahoe . I also

Visited certain places in Nevada . xvi INTRODUCTION .

h I met with an accident while out driving , w ich

’ came very nearly b e i n g a serious o n e . The horse got frightened by a threshing machine , and gave a leap into a ditch which we were passing , upset ting the carriage and breaking my collar bone . My young lady companion and the horse for tu f n a te ly escaped uni njuremd . The af air caused con s ide rabl e merriment a ong my intimate friends , who frequently made the remark that I could run a locomotive but could not run a mustang . on During the last year of my service this road , t n meco a . I took a trip to Alaska o the stea ship D This was an excursion of about one hundred w hi h I a fu l l tourists . The trip (of c will give n description later o ) w a s greatly enjoyed by all . Soon after this I left the empl oy o f the railroad a o company , having by prudence and industry quired a sufficient amount of capital to enable

m. me to gratify y lifelong desire to travel I will ' try to give my frie n ds a faint description of places h O i n I have already Visited , p g that some day they will have the opportunity of taking the same trips themselves . 1 858 From the time I came to California , in , I h a d never seen any of my relatives until my re 1 883 on n turn there in , while my tour arou d the w - fi e . orld , making a separation of twenty v years Upon my arrival at the town where I was born ’ and spent my boyhood s days , I started to walk l d o ll . to my home , where my brother sti resides xviii I NTRODUCTION .

! M b e h a d O l d I found in them y roth r grown , and a n d a n d looked feeble careworn , soon will have to e take his place with those who have gone b fore . His children had grown to be young men a n d w women , some of whom ere unborn when last I

s a w . him As I stood looking at them , and the w a s re a fD changes they had undergone , I made to h o n ize that I , too , ave turned the bend , and am the road to that final home t o which w e all must go sooner or later .

“ F o r w ith e q u a l pa ce mti at I pa r a l f e Kn ocks b oth a t t h e pa l ace ! And t h e ga rd e n ga te . In conclusion I will stat e that I have never

a v h married , and h ve ne er had a ome that I coul d ’ c a ll my own since I left my boyhood s home Nor have I since known much about the comforts ’ of a home or the i n fluence of a woman s loving heart or guiding hand . But I can often bring to mind some act of kindness or something that was o r said to cheer me , some slight or coldness by w h o m some were too thoughtless to re ember that they had ever been children . And should I live

o r a thousand years , any slight kindness that has ever been shown me by those with whom it wa s l o t t l my to associa e , wi l never be forgotten . C H A P T E R I .

MY TRI P To A LAS KA .

L EF T San Francisco

toward the last of July , 1 882 , arriving at Vieto

ria , British Columbia , after traveli n g t w o days and a h a lf by steamer a long th e coast o f C a lifornia a n d n . Victoria is a city of about

u n a thirty tho sa d inhabit nts , and

is located on Vancou ver Island .

a It is sleepy place , and thor

a oughly English , but picturesque in every det il having a comm a nding View o f the Strai t s of F u e a

fa r - u and the away heights of British Col mbia , also of th e sn owy mountain peaks of Washington . Al a ska is quite an unknown co u n t r v to a great many . It has been under the control of the ( 1 9 ) 20 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

I t s America n Government since 1 80 7 . scenery

a a n d of riv ls in grandeur beauty that Switzerland , o f Norway , and Sweden ; but how few are aware

it . It has the largest glaciers in the world . The territory of Alaska w a s p urchased from Russi a in 1 867 for and h a s an area of fi ve hun d red and eighty thousand o n e hu ndred and

seven square miles . It is equal in size to all of the

a M United States e st of th e ississippi River , and

t . nor h of Alabama , Georgia , and North Carolina t h e i sI a n ds Its coast , including if taken in a

straight line , would belt the globe .

v w e t o On lea ing Victoria went mNanaimo , and then to Departure Bav some three iles from the

latter place , where we spent three days coaling t up the ship . This gave us an opportunity o visit the coal mi n es located about five miles i n f . o land They are very extensive , and the coal is a — fine quality . A narrow gauge railway connects

n n the mine with Na aimo . While there we e joyed “ ! - d an Old fashioned own East clam bake . The

t o fo r u s captain hired Indians get the clams , anmd bread , pies , cake , and wine were provided fro

the ship . We also got up a fishing party o n e

afternoon , and went out in small boats ; but as

fi s h n the would not bite , we exploded dy amite

d a n d cartri ges in the water , which stunned them

u t h e bro ght th em to surface in good quantities . In the eveni ng w e had a dance in t h e Nanaimo hall , and returned to the ship in the wee smal l “21 JAM Es BA TCHELDER .

w a s hours o f the morning . The music furnished by the military band of Fort Vancouver , which accompanied us on o u r trip . Our coming in and going o u t o f ports were signaled b v the playing of the band . They also favored us with fine m a m usic after each meal , and pl yed dance usic in each evening the cabin for the guests , which added greatly to the enjoymen t of the trip . mOn a a a rt le ving Nanaimo , p y of ladies and gentle en , accompanied by a brass band , came in small boats ou r drawn by a steam launch , and sailed around

a u s steamer sever l times , their band serenading i n d the while , wh ch was a swere by our band in

a ot return . After our ste mer g under full heading , leaving some distance between us a n d our sere n o u r aders , captain fired a parting salute from the w a s cannon on the steamer , and m uch merriment caused wh en one o f the other party answered it by firing off a pistol . r n l Our next stopping pl ace w a s Fort VV a g e .

This was a large mining camp a few years ago . Ste ike e n The mines were located on the River . o u t so but they have been nearly worked , that n o w the place is quite dull . On our way here we passed through the straits known as the Seymore

w t h e is Narrows , here width half a mile , the

a n d a t depth seventy fathoms , the current runs n the rate of ni n e miles an h our . It is as da ger

r ou s a s . the St Law ence Rapids , it being full of

'

s. ma n hidden rock A Unite d States of war was 22 LIF E A N D TRAVELS O F

t he lost here some time ago . At Wrangle Indi ans have standing beside their best - built houses tall spires of native wood on which are rudely ' carved t h e hea ds and a n imals that form the family crest o f the inm ates o f t h e h ouse . They a re called totem poles . The Alask amn Indian is very fond of his totem pole , as it for s his crest and his history both i n one . From here we went to Holcomb Bay for the pur o f pose seeing a glacier . We east anchor at eight ’

. . w o clock A M and ent ashore in small boats , pro

a n o u r curing the services of Indian to act as pilot .

o ff The glacier seemed to be but a short distance , a n d n w a s a the I dian said it very easily re ched , but w e found to our sorrow that it w a s n ot so near

w h a d nor so easy to reach as e expected . We to beat our way through the underbrush up an d down steep hills for about three miles without th e

o f a least sign a tr il , sometimes having to crawl on u r d our hands and knees . O guide s a i w e were the first white people who had ever reached that Th glacier . e trip was accomplished after a good

a a n d deal of persever nce hardship , but the seen e r v w a s so grand when we a rri ved there that

w e s l a felt ourselve amp y rep id for our trouble .

a n The gl cier was one thousand feet high , lyi g in n a deep gorge betwee two high mountains . It

b u t is said to be moving down , so slowly that it

is not perceptible to the eye . While climbing

t w e C hout over this glacier , saw large racks in the 2 JAMES BATCHELDER . 3 ice several hundred feet in depth and three o r four wide . Should anyone slip and fall into any

l . of these cracks , his body cou d never be found mn w e When we left the ship in the orni g , ex

e ct e d so p to return at noon , but failed to do till six P . M . that evening . The next morning we ar l n rived a t Juneau . This is quite a ively mi ing n place . Duri g the summer , business is quite brisk , th e s o bmut winters are long and very colmd , that ines cannot be worked more than four onths in the year . I do n ot think they are rich enough to

a n d th e pay much at that rate , chances are they will have to be abandoned unless some richer dig gings are found . While at Juneau , Captain Carrol ,

a n commander of our ship , made arr gements with several boat crews of Indian s to ro w their canoes n n arou d a small island about a mile dista t , for a 20 m purse of $ to the crew which ade the quickest time . There were fifteen canoes , with twelve men t t o . in each , compe e for the prize They used

a e a rs Short side p ddles , or , and all kept time in

making their strokes . This was a s fine a boat

a t o se e a l l r ce as one could wish , and I think we enj oyed it to its fullest extent . After leaving here we went into the Ta ckou In

ta v is let , where we s rted out with the intention of

h a d iting one of the finest glaciers in the world , but o n m to give it up account of so any floating ice 7 a bergs . “ e were afr id of being caught between

a n d t o w e a them crushed death , so took nother 24 LIFE AND ‘ TRAVELS OF

t o ' se e direction , and went one less beautiful and grand . w e The next stop made was at Chilkat , after m a king an interesting run o f twelve hours up

- Lynn Canal to Pyramid Harbor, the head waters n a n d n n of inland navigatio , lyi g early sixty de grees north latitude . Chilkat River flows into

Pyramid Harbor , up which canoes can run to o n e a n Chilkat village , of the l rgest India settle men ts in Alaska . Lynn Canal is a n a rrow strip of water w ith the high mo u n ta in peaks of th e Chilkat Range on one side a n d the White Moun tains o f Alaska o n th e other . On arriving at Pyramid Harbor w e found a small Indian village a n d a few white traders . The traders had two I n dian women who h a d been condemned by their

a s w s u tribe to be burned at the stakes , they ere p posed to be witches . They had been hidden away w e by the traders until arrived , when they were

on o u r t o taken board ship and carried Sitka, where i they were safe from their persecutors . It s a

n a n common practice among the India s , when y o n e of their number is sick , for the medicine man ,

a when he f ils to effect a cure , to accuse someone h e of having bewitched t sick person . The party thus accused is taken by their tribe and burned a t

a r the stakes In the case referred to , had our

i a a th e r val been delayed few d ys longer , traders

would have been compelled to give the squaws up , ow n a s in order to save their lives , they were threat a ened with de th unless they gave them up .

2G LIFE A N D TRAVE LS OF

w n s Our next place was Seattle , a gro i g busines

a a n d th e pl ce . largest town in the territory . t o t he We next went Tacoma , where we left ship , the steamship company being kind enough t o make our tickets tra n sferable vi a Portl a n d to

n se e San Francisco , givi g us an Opportunity to something of Oregon , which privilege we were glad to get . Portl a nd is a fine city situated on the

o f left bank the Willamette Ri ver , twelve miles a bove where that stream empties into the Colum u th e of bia . It is b ilt on Slope a hill , whose top a is still covered with pines and fir trees . On cle r

n m. days the city e j oys a agnificent view Far away towards the ea s t rest three snowcapped

Mt n . a . mount ins , Hood loomi g above the rest Duri n g o u r stav at Portl a nd we took a trip up the n st e Columbia River to The Dalles , maki g a sh ort p w e u at Fort Vancouver . Here were met by a lie h t tenant , w ose name I canno now recall , but who h a d been a fellow passen ger on our trip to Alaska .

He took us fo r a drive around the military post .

l ov e l v The fort occupies a little spot , and reflects n great credit on Ge eral Miles , its present com mander . The sce nery along the river to The Dalles is very

a n d a grand and picturesque , resembles somewh t

a o n l v h th t of the Rhine , this is barren rock wit R but little vegetation , while the hine is inter

a a n spersed with c stles , viney rds , and crumbli g n ruins . O returning to Portland we took a tri p 2 JAMES BATCHELDER . 7

mi s t h e c a it a l o f to Sale . This city p Oregon , and i n t h e is situated Willamette Valley , about fifty

a miles from Portland . It is a manuf cturing town

a . of consider ble importance The capitol , which

w a s . 1 873 w begun in , when completed il l be an

s e v imposing structure . The penitentiary , also f s o . eral in titutions learning , are located in Salem Among the most importa n t are the Willamette

U a n n niversity , institution of long standi g , the

fo r i a n school the deaf, dumb , and bl nd , and In dian training school maintained by the national

n a gover ment . From there I returned t o Portl nd where I took the steamer for San Francisco , arriv ing there after having traveled a bout four thou

a a n d sand miles , most of the time on inl nd waters , I consider myself well repaid for the time and

a s o n e money spent , it was of the most enjoy able trips I have ever taken . CHA P TER I I .

MY H TRIP AROU ND T E WORLD .

STARTED o n a trip a round the world

1 883 a about the middle of January , , le v

n a n d ing San Francisco for Japa , arriving a t of Yokohama after a voyage nineteemn days , during which time we encountered a nu ber of l w o f t o squa ls , hich caused some the passengers arrange for the disposal of their worldly goods .

But nothing serious happened . Japan is a beautiful counmtry . It consists of a a a s four l rge islands , which y be regarded

a a l vi n Ja p n proper , and of m ny small ones , some g

se a . near the shore , and others lying far out in the t The na ive name of the whole country is Nippon . Japan is bounded o n t h e east and south sides by n the Pacific Ocean , while on the west and orth

n a n d are the Yellow , Japa , Okhotsk Seas . Its m a inl a nd is within a bout o ne hu n dred miles of ( 28 ) 20 JAM ES BA TCHELDER .

the great contin e n t of Asi a . Taking the four n o f great islands as one , the le gth the country ,

a n h u n me sured north and south , is nearly ni e d red miles , and its breadth , about eight hun dred miles . The production of tea in Japan is a n enormous . They Ship to the United States , n ua l l - fi ve y , about thirty million pounds , or fifty — per cent of all t h e tea consumed here the rest comes mostly from Formosa , Foochow , and Amoy in China .

o f a a Japan has five lines r ilway in operation , g

r i l e n g e ga t ng two hundred and sixty miles . The

to - fi ve gest line , from Tokio Nikko , is seventy miles .

I t w a s a recently opened , and belongs to the Imperi l

Jap a nese R a ilway Company . The other lines are owned and operated by their government . All

J a n the employes on the trains are apmnese , havi g learned the business from English en sent here

a in the early days of r ilroading in this country . ’ a mw After a few days st y in Yokoha a I ent to

Tokio . This is the l a rgest and finest city in

a n d a . Th e w a s Japan , is its c pital city founded

a a ne rly three hundred years go . Its great fe a ture

w a s it s f r o t . o n , and still is , castle , or It lies a sidehill overlooking the city , and is partly sur

so i n rounded by a wide canal , that in case of an

t o rn f n vasion the bridges could be down , af ordi g complete p rotection . Another feature o f t h e modern capit al is the great temple district of

. o l d Sheba It is adorned with fine trees , rising 30 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

here and t here into w o o de d slopes and hills . These gro v es o f Sheba were once secluded and

n e w . sacred , but are Opened to the public

s ot Another beautiful p of like association , but

a b made far less be utiful y battle and fire , is

W e e e n e e g , or Ugen , on the opposite side of the n city . There is a other temple in Tokio , called the

A sa ku sa i ts temple of , a notable place of kind , is and full of interest to the stranger . It the p rincipal B u ddhist temple in Tokio . Its attrae tions are those of a fair rather than those of a

n a s temple , having such exhibitio s tea houses ,

a m w w x orks , shows , onkeys , and various enter

n th e t a i n me t s . In immediate neighborhood singing girls make merry the hearts of citizens

vis it o rs h and , filling their ears wit joyous music , f and their eyes with pictures o graceful dancers . But these sights are n ot stra nge to the Ja p

a anese mind , ssociated with thei r temples and toy sh e ps . The business streets a n d s h o ps in Tokio are chiefly managed by Japanese . The number of foreign residents are so few in proportion to that of their o w n n a tion that they do n o t interfere

o f a s o n e with the native aspect the place , walks or rides along its thoroughfares . During my stay in Japan I rode around in jinrikishas to my ’ heart s content . One consists of a small chaise on t w o l whee s , propelled by a man between the shafts . When I first arrived at Tokio , I was met on e a mh e n w o at the station by of these carri ge , . 3 JAM ES BATCHELDER. 1 asked me I n E n glish if I wa nted t o go t o a good hi h . mso e English hotel I told that I did , told

i nt o hi s me to get conveyance , and he would take

a dis me to one . After t king me a considerable u s t e e d o f tance p town , he pp in front what he told me I w ould find a good English hotel . I w a s surprised o n entering t o find that n o t a per s n ce u l d w o rd a s o I o understand a I s id , returned

mv to the street and informed carriage man tha t he h a d made a mistake . Then he informed me that I could get a go o d E n glish dinner here any

t o th e m' l b w a v . I told him tell would be ack at

n an d oo d noon , in time for din er , I had as g a

s o n f r meal there a e could wish o . It was served

a e n in courses , French style , by be utiful v u g native waiter girls . The Japanese are a polite a n d genteel race of

Th e a re people . women of the higher class pretty , and neatly dressed , and keep their houses

cu s t mt o o and themselves clean , it being their take a bath every day . Before anyone can enter boo ts t o o ff their house , their have be taken , and

e e Slippers , which will be found outside the d r ,

e e rson put on in their st ad ; or , if a p chooses , he can go in in his stocking feet . The floors are so clean that they will hardly soil a white p ocke t is cu st o . m handkerchief It the of the females , as soon as they marry , to blacken their teeth , and n so t o arra ge their hair in a peculiar style , as be

t easily disti n guished from those w h o a re n o mar ried . LIFE A N D TRAVELS O F

On leaving Tokio I went down the inland se a o f h arbor Japan , anchoring in the of Koby , a on e o f t he pretty looking European town , and t he b e places Open to foreign trade . O ver hills e 1 yond lies Hiog , which s a genuine old Japanese a is co n town which practic lly adjoins Koby , and on e t i u o u s . g with it From here I went to Osaka , of the three large cities o f Japan . It has a pop u l a ti e n o n e w a s on e of million , and at time the capital . The most beautiful sea voyage in the n f B world is the trip o the inland se a o Japan . e tween the large islands there is an expanse of water fi ve hundred miles in extent from east t o h west , and varying greatly in breadt , forming a o n n landlocked sea . W e were t w o days and e ight making the trip , and during the whole voyage the h r l wa ter a d sca ce v a ripple on its surface . The sidehills along the route are nearly all made into tea fields by buildi n g terraces one a bov ethe other

t o t o a the very p of the highest hills . Our pass ge

- through this se a was an ever chan gin g p a nora m a. d o n of green fiel s the islands , narrowing straits , expanding bays , hills and valleys , with cities

n s h ore s scattered alo g its , seeming to roll past us ] with constant y varying beauty . After passing through the s e a w e arrived at Na ~ ga saki . This was the last place we s te ppe d a t while in Japan . While here I had the pleasure of seeing th e manner in which they l e a d the ships with coa l . Sm a ll girls from ten to fo u rteen

34 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

cit h a vin w a a large native y , g fine alls round th e n ot t o h old town , but there is much be seen ere

th a t will interest a stranger . The streets are nar

ro w . and dirty , as all Chinese cities are The first evening o f my arrival here I left the hotel in the American settlement t o take a l ook at the old ot town inside the walls , but when I g to the gate , I found that n o European s were all owed inside so t o after dark , I concluded return to my hotel , but got lost in th e native settlement outside of the i n walls , it being almost as large as it is on the ’ d side . I wandere about from eight o clock in the w h o evening till eleven , trying to find someone could spea k enough English to direct me t o the hotel I w a s looking for ; but it w as impossible for me to make either police offi cers or any one else

the t o understand name , and I began think I h l l n n a . would ave to stay out ight Fi ally , about ’ t o el even o clock , I came a place which appeared

s o u to be a Chinese hotel , I stepped in and inq ired at the offi ce if there was anyon e there w h o could

speak English . A party of Chinese were playing

th e room. Th e billiards in another part of officer

t o h nn me dia t l w o e called one of them , y came up t o me . to o n I put the same question him , and him his answering me in the affirmative , I asked l on e of so to te l me of his rikisha men , that I

could get him to take me t o the Aste r Ho u se . He

’ so t w a s did , and in abou five minutes time I safely landed at the house I had been hunting 35 JAMES BATCHELDER .

e for all the evening . In Shanghai and in H ng k e ng they have some o f the Japanese j inriki th e is o f shas , but wheelbarrow the old mode

an d is a l conveyance , still used to some extent , i though t is fast giving way t o the rikisha . w e t o e n e a n d From Shanghai went H gk ng , n e e n then to Canton . While o the China Sea w n a l countered several squalls , but nothi g serious , though i n a n other o f the sudden lurches the ship

e t so gave , I g another fall , which lamed me badly that it t ook me about a week t o recover from it .

While in Canton , under the direction of a. guide ,

I saw all that wa s to be seen of any importance .

o th e r ro de While here I did as every visitor does , h a n d a mo n in a sedan c air , the ride ranks g the

of . e funniest my life The motion is a sl w , sleepy o n e n ot u n a , but altogether ple sant , although ,

o n e like many other luxuries , must acquire a f r T o ta ste o it . w men will carry a chair when on e sh ort ta a t o goes a dis nce only , but as I w nted o u t t o fo r be all day I had have six men , th ree ’ fo r h my guide s chair and three mine , w ich made ,

me n fo r a including my guide , seven me to p y

- making sight seeing in Canton rath er expensive . Canton is the second city in size in China P e kin being the largest . During my stay in Canton I t ook my meals and slept On boa rd the ship I ca me on , having made arrangements with the captain t o do so th e h , paying regular otel prices for the privilege . There is only one European hotel in 36 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

on e . Canton , and a very poor at that It is a com mo n al o n thing to see the women hobbling g

w a through the streets , ith such small feet enc sed in such tight shoes that they can scarcely walk . They are thus crippled while yet little children cu s toma by the cruel of band ging their feet, bend ing a l l the toes but the large o n e under the fe e t until they are dislocated . The heels are drawn up towards the legs until a partial dislocation of a n d the ankle takes place , are held in that posi tion by bandages . They have to keep the band ages on for ten or twelve years , which cripples f f r . most them o life They su fer the excruciating pain under this treatment , but it entitles them to of th e a mark distinction , as only rich and aris t ocra tic portion of the people practice this i nh u man treatment . On my retu rn t o Hongkong I had to wait nine days before a ship left fo r the direction I wished a f to go , although three days would have f orded me ample time to s e e all there w a s to be seen in o n l n the place . The city is a high bluff a o g the e n e n bay , presenting a fine sight from the ship . tering th e harbor , but, like Constantinople, when

oe s . e one g ashore , the beauty all disappears H ng kong belon gs to the English Government, and is a large commercial place , having trade with all parts of the world .

A t o n n fter leaving here I went Saigo , in A am , i . s Cochin China This a French settlement, and JAMES B A TCHELDER. 3 7

o n . lies about fifty miles inland , the Saigon River n n n We then we t to Si gapore , in Malay , the ce o f o f through the Straits Malacca , a long strip wate r extending from southeast t o northwest and connecting the Bay of Bengal with the South P a ifi o f a n d c c . Ocean It is a pretty piece water , while passing through it we were n ever o u t of sight of land on one side or the other . It takes nearly t wo days for a stea mer to pass th rough it . o f o n On the east is the peninsula Malacca , and the n the west is island of Sumatra , which exte ds

t w o a. south nearly to Java , the islands being sep rated by the Straits of Sunda . Singapore is situ ated on an island fifty o r sixty miles in circumfer f w o . ence , at the lo er end the straits There are about

fifteen thousand inhabitants on the island , compris ing Chinese , Parsees , Hindoos , Singhalese , Arabs ,

a . Armeni ns , Japanese , Siamese , Jews , and negroes o n From Singapore we went to Columbo , situated n h the island of Ceylon . While o t e voyage cross ing the Indian Ocean we had the pleasure of viewing some of the beautiful sunsets o f which that locality is so famous . There is no place in the world where the sunsets form such beautiful

o n t he u pictures as Indian Ocean . This is s p posed to be caused by th e s u n setting behind large banks of heavy fog that rise in the distance in every conceivable shape and form . And when the sun is setting behind this , it gives it the color o f gold , and the appearance of rivers and lakes , 38 LI F E AND TRAV ELS OF

a n d dotted here there , containing islands of every size and form covered with vegetation of every kind ; and littl e b e a t s of every description laden with human freight seem to be playing o n the o n water between the islands , while the banks and ma b o e ca n v hills , which for high the water , be traced magnificent castles and palaces surrounded by gardens and groves of the most beautiful fo liage , and in the background rise high mountain peaks all seeming as natural as if t hey actually existed . I have read many glowing descriptions o f of the beauties of Paradise , with its rivers gold , n etc . , but I have never see anything equal to make me feel the realization of th e picture a s did the n n sunsets o the Indi a n Ocea . On reaching Columbo I t ook a trip by rail s e v e n t - fi n t y ve miles inla d o a place called Kanda .

o f o f u l a Mile after mile trees wonderf l growth ,

e f cv den with spices every description , is seen on t h e ery side , making island of Ceylon , as it is said of to be , the garden the world ,

W e e e ve o s e c l e a e h r ry pr p t p s s ,

A m. nd o nl y a n is v i l e Almost every nationality in the world can be o n found this island , but the maj ority of the pop u l a tion i s divided into three distinct races , called T l it a me s . e Singhalese , Bergers , and They all dress in the oriental style , and men and women dress alike . Th ey wear their hair done up on the back part of the head , and fasten it with a tortoise JAMES BATCHELDER . 39

se x r shell comb . Neither wears hats o headgear of any kind . It is almost impossible t o tell a mf male from a fe ale , the only dif erence being in n their faces , which are more masculine looki g . There is a small class o f people here called Par

a sees . The females are very h ndsome , and the men are smart business people . They are some

o u r . e w what like Jews They deal in clothing , j e l r a s u y , and precious stones , the latter , such r bies , ’ t he sapphires , topaz , an d cat s eye , being found in A n large quantities on the island . s gold is o t a mineral prod uct of the island , they buy gold coin , such as English sovereigns and French Napoleons , which they make into very fine jewelry . While saw w h o t o in Columbo I Arabi Pasha , was exiled n this isla d , but is at liberty to go and come as he pleases to any part of it . He lives in a fine house n o f ear the edge a lovely lake , in the neighbor

f . o mn . l n hood the cinna on garde I had a o g talk with him through an interpreter . He has four

wives with him , whom he brought from Egypt . ’ After a ten days sojourn o n this delightful w a o f island , I started for Calcutta by the y Mad

ra s th e of , passing through Bay Bengal , and up Ho l the og e y River . At Madras the ship anchored

s hore n some distance from , and the Hi doo natives came o u t in small boats to take the passengers h ashore . I made a bargain wit one t o land me t w o n for rupees and eight a nas , but wh en three or fo u r yards from Shore, the water was too shal 40 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF

to low allow the boat going any further , so the coolies t ook me in their arms and carried me to

dry land , for which they wanted extra pay , but I w a s refused to pay it , as the bargain for them to

fo r su m. land me the already stated We had

for quite an exciting time a little while , fifteen or twenty of those half- n aked natives having gathered around me to demand extra pay for h w at they deemed extra services . I knew they n o o t o t s . were entitled to it, did not give it them They take every advantage o f a foreigner they

can , and will beat him every time unless he is

determined t o fight his w a y through . is Calcutta a large city , and lies one hundred Hoo l e o f miles inland on the g y River , one the o f n a s se v mouths the Ga ges , that river ends in f eral streams , each having a dif erent name , but n n h all emptyi g i n to the Be gal Bay . Calcutta a s been the capital of the British Empire fo r more n than a ce tury , and it is th e center of British

F o rt influence for th e whole East . William is an extensive fortress standing on the Maidan , a vast open plain extending more than t w o miles u p Hoo l e and down the g y River south of the city . The portion of th e Maidan bordering on the river

t h e is the most fashionable drive in city , being

o r Rott e n Row similar to the Prater , in Vienna , ,

. be in Hyde Park , London Every evening just of t he fore sunset , when the h eat day has passed , ’ all Ca lcutta turns ou t for an hour s drive up and

42 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF stone rail about four feet high running al o n g the

a edge of the bank . There is no flooring other th n n the solid earth . From the front a st o e stairway a bout ten feet wide lea ds down to the river . Th e land entrance is composed of archways in the h back wall , close to the sides , t rough which the bodies are carried for cremation . Calcutta has several fine large public gardens , where bands o f music play each evening to large crowds o f

n a . people , comprisi g ne rly every nationality I did n ot rem a in in this delightful city as lo n g as n ot so I should have if the weather had been hot , the mercury usually reachi n g o n e hundred a n d twenty and o n e h undred and thirty degrees a bov e h n o t zero in the s ade all day , and less than one hundred during the night . n o f Leaving there I went to Delhi , a dista ce

fi ft - fi ve nine hundred and y miles inland , in

which place I staid a week , and then went to th l d . w a s e o Bomb ay Delhi is , or rather , imperial of n city India , and duri g my stay there I Visited all pl aces of note Familiar a s they seemed to m h e from the description I read during t e time 1 857 of the Indian mutiny in , I found I knew M w as but little about it in reality . odern Delhi

e h a n th e built by the Emperor Shah J , about mid l dle of the seventeenth century . It is inc osed by

a n d o n e a wall , or rampart of red granite , five

h a re a half miles in circuit . T ere twelve g tes , the

on e s M principal being the Calcutta , Kashmir , oori , 43 JAMES BATCHELDER .

L h f a ore . o , and Delhi gates The streets are full o n e busy people , each talking at the top of his voice , as though the person addressed was de ri d hi of of p ve of s hearing . Venders all kinds produce , displaying their stock in trade on the of t o cv backs donkeys an d camels , seem be

e r w h e re . y , and business looks brisk with them sh o rt Dirty , barefooted little children , clad in very

o r w h o skirts , and magicians jugglers , perform

o f t o all kinds tricks in the open air , h elp swell f . a s a o the throng Beggars , in all other p rts th e ch a ritv East , are very plentiful , and appeal to the of strangers . If given a small sum , they are con

i s u n tent to go their way , but if their prayer fol l o w heeded , they will you and keep up a con i l t n u a a a s ou i n v . ppeal , long as y stay the icinity

The weather at Delhi is hot , and everyone seems to stay outd oors as much as possible . Th e products o f the country are brought t o o market n the backs of camels . They file into the city in the morning from every direction in

r long lines . Each bea st is tied by a rope o chain n to the back strap of the o e that precedes it . They mo e a l n v o t o g steadily , neither turning the right n or left , their packs often extending three or four feet from their sides . One meeting them with a

h a s not m carriage to be careful to co e in contact of with them , otherwise he woul d be in danger h n ot st e being carried along by them , as t ey will p o r turn out for anyone . Before the present city 44 LIFE AND T RAVELS O F

w a s built , Delhi had occupied various sites within t o a circuit of twenty miles the south and west , n n most of which space is e w covered with rui s . Their changes of locality were owing sometimes to invasions destroying the old towns and n e ce ssi n t o tating the co struction of new , and sometimes t h e of w h o ambition particular emperors , wished t o found a more splendid residence than those of

their predecessors . Wherever the king built his n fortified palace , there the nobles clustered arou d th e him , and the inhabitants of old city followed

o n a h the court, both ccount of the trade w ich it b u h controlled , and because their old town , eing ’ th e protected by king s soldiers, became exposed to

u a the assa lts of the robber tribes . The whole rena covered with ruins is n ot less than forty - fi ve square

miles . The principal street in Delhi is called il i n n . me Chandi Chawk It is about a le gth and o n e f hundred and twenty eet wide , and extends

‘ from the western entrance of the palace t o the

Lahore gate . Another large street intersects the t . m y from north to south During y stay in d Ke t Delhi I visited the palace and cita el , the wale , in front of which many notorious rebels were executed after the capture of the city by the 1 857 . English in Close to it is the mosque , where Nadir Sh a w sat in 1 738 and ordered the massacre in which on e hundred thousan d of the Delhi peo

. t h e ple were killed Just beyond this is arsenal , a portion of wh ich was blown up by Lieutenant 45 JAMES BATCHELDER .

1 857 t o Willoughby in , prevent its falling into the ro hands of the rebels . Leaving the palace we p n mo t d a mos u e o e s ce e de to the J mi q , of the beau tiful mosques in the East , situated on a small rocky eminence overlooking the city . The court, of 450 a square feet , is paved with stone , and has handsome sandstone gateways on each of the th ree sides , with a magnificent flight of steps leading to w each . From the summit a lovely Vie is obtained of e the city and surrounding country , widely ver spread with monuments and ot h e r buildings in v arious stages of decay . There are a great many ancient buildings and mosques in Delhi , but to describe them all would take up too much time and space . The tomb of the Emperor Houma t th e gou ri is the most no ed . It stands in middle o f is n an immense terrace , and surrou ded by a is beautiful flower garden . It composed of white

- dome marble and rose colored san dstone , and the is the perfection of strength and grace . Aroun d it , Spreading from the Jumna River to the western de scri hills , are a multitude of tombs of every p tion . He is said to be the true founder of the

r b u t l on g eat Mogul dynasty , he did not g enjoy the empire conquered by his father , for , having i been deposed by a successful rebell on , he became a fugitive , and had to take refuge with the king of Persia . At len gth he treacherously got posses s a n d ion of a city belonging to his protector , , with a n d the money forces obtained by this act , he suc 46 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF ce e de d o e rth re w in in v g his younger brother , Kam ’ u Ka mra n s o t ran . Having put eyes , he continued

of re - the reconquest his empire , and at last estab l ish e d his throne at Delhi , after sixteen years of h e n exile . Six months afterward died from i j uries received from a fall down the staircase of h is li

u n b ra ry u p on a marble floor . Delhi lies p o the of banks the Jumna River , th ree hundred and

- ninety four miles north of Allahabad , at which place it unites with the Ganges . On my way to

Delhi I passed through Allahabad . It is situated o n the to n gue of land formed by th e confluence of the Jumna and Ganges , and is considered by of mos t the Hindoos as one the sacred localities , n bei g a place where three rivers u nite , only two f Th i o v . e s which , however, are isible third sup

ce posed to flow direct from heaven , and add its l i l e s t a waters unseen by mortal eye . When a pil grim arrives here he sits down at the bank of the his river and has head and body shaved , SO that each hair may fall into the water . They clai m that the sacred writings promise th em one million years ’ residence in heaven for every hair th us de n posited . After shavi g he bathes in the water, and then is supposed to be prepared to take his

flight to the better world . or m The Hindoos are either Buddhist Brah in fe w com in their religion , but the former are in th o f parison to e number their inhabitants . They

. do n o t im are all idolaters They worship the 4 JAM ES BATCHELDER . 7

ages , but the holy men whom they represent .

They believe in a supreme being , but do not

n o t . worship , as they claim he does want worship

They respect the memory of their dead relatives , a n d worship their fathers and mothers . They also worship those w h o have been worthy men a n d left records behind them , whom they claim do to be God incarnate , like our Christ . They me n n o t o d worship a g , but godlike , and they say and believe that the spirits of these are in th e images and an imals that they w orship . They do

n o t . worship the serpent, but the power it possesses The i s o f serpent with them the symbol eternity , because with a sin gle sting he can pass a man n Th i be . e s into eter ity cow also very divine , it n ot cause gives milk to all , but they do worship

th e . the animals , only power they have The

Hindoos are very devout worshipers , and I have to seen them kneeling trees in parks and gardens , of making all kinds gestures with their hands , while every few minutes they would make a quick bend forward and kiss the earth near the roots of th e tree and then straighten up and go th rough with the same motions as before , repeating this thirty minutes at a time in many casmes . On leaving Delhi I went to Bo bay , eight hundred and fifty miles by rail . The railroads in India are all owned by the English , and are d oo . all well built , and kept in g order The r a e a l l of iron b idges r l bui t , and the depots are 48 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

the finest I have seen anywhere . The cars are the same a s th ose used in Europe . They are di v ide d into compartments , first , second , and third d class , and just before the train starts , the oors l ooke d s o u ste s are all , and kept ntil the train p at a station , when they are unlocked , and relocked when the train is ready to start again . This is u t h e kept up ntil they arrive at end of the road . While in Bombay I w a s introduced t o the a n national dish , and lso the natio al beverage,

! namely Bombay duck , curry and rice , and n t . o brandy and soda They were bad to take , o f especially the latter . One the great sights to ’ be seen here is the Elephant s Cave . It is a s u b in rock terranean temple a solid , which has been hewn and chiseled away t o the very center of f the mountain . The excavation consists o four

. o n e m chambers The central is ajestic with gate ways , abutments , porches , and columns . On or m either side of the principal hall te ple are

or . lesser chambers , chapels The roof is sup v o f re re ported by massi e pillars , each which p is sents a figure . The whole temple filled with mfi colossal figures , twice the size of the hu an g

n . ure , and representi g heathen gods This cave is supposed t o h ave been built about twelve hun o n e dred years ago , and is of the curiosities of the

- world . Unfortunately for Sight seers , the cave a s of has been almost ruined , most th e pillars have been broken down by the guns of the Portu

50 LIFE AN D TR A VELS OF seems a most revolting mode of disposing of one ’s n d . m near a dear friends I Should uch prefer the

mo de . Hindoo of cremating is Bombay a pretty city , full of very fine gar u dens , and boasts a very large common , pon which on e of the military bands station ed there a n d con play every evening , the common , in sequence , is thronged at such times with ladies

. w a s and gentlemen I reluctant to leave Bombay , of n s o ho t in Spite its bei g , as it is a very pretty of place . The weather in all parts India , as well a s Ce l on w a s so on the Isle of y , hot that to be able t o sleep at night I had to hire a coolie to fan of me with a punka . This is a wide piece cloth t h e suspended by cords from the ceiling over bed , ix and about s inches from it . A string is attached

ru n a n d n to this , through a pulley , faste ed in the wall of the room , passing through it down into h . t e the hall A coolie sits in hall , and pulls the string all night for half a rupee , amounting to twenty cents in our money . From the sweep of the fan a fine breeze is obtained , which enables ’ n n t o e . to get a good ight s rest This , ogether with plenty of cold brandy and soda , enabled me

u u to get thro gh this hot co ntry all right .

After leaving Bombay , I went by steamer to u Suez , crossing the Arabian Sea , thence thro gh

o f th e l on the Gulf Aden , and up Red Sea , a g , narrow body of water lying between Arabia and

b a in t h e w a . A yssini , with land sight most of y JAMES BATCHELDER . 51

When passing through the Gulf of Suez , at the the upper end of Red Sea , we were shown the place where the Israelites crossed . It is n eedless to say that their tracks are n ot visible at the n present time . At this point Mt . Si ai is in o f plain view on the Arabia side , while the land

Egypt is on the other . At Suez I employed a guide to take me to the train , which runs to Cairo ,

Egypt . We had to travel about two miles on the backs of donkeys t o reach the station . On going ashore at Suez we saw some thirty o r forty Arabs of coming on the backs those little animals , run n U ni g them at full speed ntil they came up to us ,

e u s and then st pping short, each one wishing to his hire donkey , and being so persistent that I so me was compelled to strike of them several times to keep them away from m e . Our San Francisco hotel runners and hack drivers are bad h t e . enough , but these fellows take cake I finally ou t told my guide to pick three , and make the rest stand back , or I might have to murder a few of them . After settling the donkey question u — w e on luckily , witho t any bloodshed proceeded ou r w a y to the station , which we reached without ou r w a w e further trouble . On y to Cairo passed e l Ka bie r through Fel , where the English army th e surprised and captured Egyptians , under

sh ort . Arabi Pasha , a time ago Cairo has become almost entirely a modern city . In Constantinople you can see the Turk n e w as he was t w o thousand 52 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

a e years g , but Egypt has been overrun since early in th e present century by Greeks , Italians , and w h o French , have usurped the commerce , and n crowded the atives into the background . Of

n ot se e cit v ancient Egypt. one does much in the i s itself, although it close at hand . There are

white colored buildings by the thousands , all in

n of the Italia style , for the architects modern

Cairo have all been Italians . The buildings are on bre ad placed streets and avenues , running in such different ways that they seem to have but slight relation to one anoth er . The foreign por o f o f tion covers many miles ground , some the finest palaces and gardens lying on the banks o f don the Nile . Of course the Arabs , and their l of , keys came s , tricks trade , etc , are scattered throughout this quarter , and their houses and streets are in the immediate vicinity . Sometimes ’ ’ a minute s or at most a five minutes walk from this modern part of the city will take you into the midst mof a life that has scarcely changed s th e o f Oh e mt e ince ti e p , except as modified by hi Mahomet and s doctrines . While here I did

n doe s . the Pyramids, as early every visitor I climbed the rugged side of the largest one of u them , a distance of four h ndred and eighty feet a above t h e level of the plain . The Pyr mid is Six hundred a n d ninety - three feet square at the base . The stones of which it is composed are t about thirty feet long , four feet high , and hree 3 JAMES BATCHELDER . 5

feet bre ad . It covers about eleven acres . Th e 480 its o f height is feet , and summit is a platform of thirteen feet square , composed twelve massive o f stones . The ascent is made with the help three

Arabs , two of whom go ahead , and lend th eir as s ist a n ce by reaching down and taking hold of your

h n a ou . a ds , while the other ssists y from behind o n e on You put foot the step above , and with the f combined ef orts of yourself and the three guides , d n u n you are raise to the next step , repeati g this

. o ne til the top is reached The task is a hard , and only a few steps can be taken without sitti n g d f r own o a rest . tw o o f m On descending , th e guides ju p down t o b e l ow n the steps , and , by placi g your arms upon

ou o n their Shoulders , y let yourself down a level h . ma n s with them Meantime the third a a rope

t th e tied under your arms , while he s ands on step above and holds on t o the end of it to keep you h n m. fro pitc i g forwa rd These men are very at t e n tive to their trust ; but as soon a s they start

ou fo r with y , they keep continually begging back

n ou h o w sheesh , telli g y the while safely they will

ou o u take y up and back , if y will but give them a little something and not let the ol d sheik know fo r it , he would take it away from them . The sheik i s the man wh o h a s charge of all th e guides

t hirt V or n re here , some forty in umber , and he ce ive s th e all money paid for their services . I a is lso visited the famous Sphinx , which situated 5 4 LIFE AN D TRAVELS O F

in the Vicinity of the Py ra mids . It is a colossal f f image made o on e piece o stone . But it has its been badly defaced , h aving parts broken from

of arms , nose and ears , which has robbed it its

I t a n . beauty , if ever had y I remained in Cairo

a five days , during which time I visited the cit del and several other places of note . The citadel is a n d l n built upon a high hill , over ooks the e tire country as far as the eye can see . It w a s very for lively while I was there , j ust before my arrival about fifteen thousand English soldiers had ar e l Kabie r w a r h av rived from Tel , the Egyptian ing j ust closed . On my w ay to Cairo we took dinner at Zaga t . mm zig Here I e an American gentle an from on e Philadelphia , and I found him of the most

agreeable fellows I ever came across . One even ’ ing we went into the Pasha s garden , and hired a n a r il l a or n on e g , Turkish pipe , for two , payi g f r mfor piaster (about fi ve cents o ou oney) apiece the pipes and tobacco . Then w e had to hire a native to sta rt them goi n g for u s . I wondered what the home folks would think could they have seen us . i ro t I ma l ia h a o s From C I went , alf way up the

t . Suez Canal , thence through the canal to Por Said n The can al is about on e hundred miles in le gth . It is carried on embankments raised in four su c a Th e of a ce ss i ve natural l kes . depth the w ter is w t w o t enty feet , and its width at the bottom is 5 JAMES BATCHELDER . 5

- hundred and forty six feet . Its minimum width

- at the t Op is three hundred and forty six feet . It is without locks and noth ing but ste a m vessels

- use it . They make the transit in twenty four h u r o s . C H A P T R I I I E .

N U I O F °A P U THE W CONTI AT ON TRI ARO ND ORLD .

a N le ving Port Said I went to Joppa , the f or m. seaport Jerusale Je ppa sta nds o n a

high hill formed like a sugar l e af. On

or ce m the summit is a small citadel , fort , which mands the town , while the bottom of the hill is surrounded by a wall . The place looks rather desolate at the present time . The harbor is one o f the worst in the world . If a ship arrives in stormy weather , the passengers cannot be landed , and have either to be taken to Be vroot or Port d w Sai , hichever place the ship is bound for ; then , if the weather permits , they are taken to Joppa f mo r . by the next stea mer bound there When I arrived it was cal but foggy , and we were lost for some time ; however, after crumising round for w e a a while and taking soundings , de our land ( 5 6)

5 8 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

interesting thing to be seen there . It is supposed to comprehend within its limits the scenes of the great events of the crucifixion , entombment , and resurrection of Christ . It was built by the Em

o f . press Helena , mother Constantine the Great Another very i nteresting object is the mosque o f

or d Of e Omar, the ome the rock on Mt . M riah .

It occupies the site , and is supposed to contai n of f o . w as some the ruins , the temple It here mf so n on that Abraha of ered up his only the altar, f ff n and where David of ered burnt o eri gs , when the destroying angel with Uplifted sword stood

m. over the doo ed city The temple has passed n o mo f w away , and in its place stands the osque

Omar . It is over five hundred feet in circumfer i m. s ence , and surmounted by a large do e On t h e outside it is covered with tili n g and colored

marble . Inside the dome is covered with gold

and delicate tracery . The walls are covered with

beautiful mosaics and passages from the Koran . Inside the twelve marble pillars that support the

dome is a Space Sixty feet in diameter . This is

inclosed by an iron railing and lattice work , and

overh ung with a fine canopy of crimson silk . This is the spot where the ark of th e co v enant is

supposed to have stood in a ges gone by . The vis

is n ot ite r allowed to enter this sacred inclosure ,

but he can put his hand through the lattice , and w a s touch the stone . It from this rock , the Mo

h a mme dan says , that the prophet Mohammed E JAM S BATCHELDER . 59 t ook his u on e n pward flight, when ight he as n o ce n de d to heaven . This is t a place where the in o st of traveler can visit as he wills , likemthe places in Palestine , for the Mosle s guard the place with great j ealousy , and for years would not allo w a Ch ristian to enter it on pain o f death . be Now , however , it can visited with suitable per n o f mits , which can be obtained from the co sul f . o Je your government , at Jerusalem The city

ru a l e ma s o n fi e . s w v built hills , called Mt Moriah , E u r h n Th i e O e . e s Zion , q , p , and Calvary city surrounded by a fine wall , some twenty feet high i h and from s x to eight feet thick . This wall a s six gates , of which Joppa and Damascus are the principal ones . The land about the city is very poor , rocky , and uneven , and but little can be raised here excepting olives , of which there are a l o d . s great many orchards Tourist , most compe tent to j udge , are agreed that the present olive trees on Mt . Olivet , near Jerusalem , are the same his that Christ prayed under, and where disciples

a o fell asleep nearly nineteen h undred years g , and these same trees are yielding their annual f r h crO o f u . o o p fr it The summit Olivet , w at n was called the Mou t of Olives , is three hundred feet above the city , and commands a fine view of the city and the surrounding country . Every building and every locality can be clearly dis

i n ish o f t u e d . g Looking eastward , the valley the Jorda n and that of the Dead Sea , although 60 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF twenty miles distant and about fou r thousand w feet belo , are seen so distinctly that one can ff Th hardly believe they are so fa r o . e surface of th e Dead Sea is the lowest point on the face of the globe , it being thirteen hundred and twelve

n a feet below the Mediterranea and the oce n , an d to look down upon it from the Mount of Olives is like looking down intothe depths of the earth it self. The Garden o f Gethsemane lies along t he f o . a side Olivet I bought bouquet of flowers , which were picked for me while there .

During my stay I went to Bethlehem , where I ' s a h f w t e Church o Nativity . It i s a bea utiful

ou r structure , and occupies the place where Sav i o u r is Th r r said to have been born . e room e p e senting the manger is gorgeously fitted up , and is supposed to stand on the spot where the manger

a was at that time . I also visited Beth ny , the

° Pool ofmSiloam , the fountain of the Virgin Mary , n a n d th e h the to bs of the ki gs prop ets , and every oth er place in and about th e city k n own in sacred and profane history . The mode of con ve an ce on o f n y is the backs do keys , there being n th e o n e no carriage roads in Palestine , excepti g from Joppa to Jerusalem , and th at is a very poor n o e . The people count the distance here by the n o f minutes or hours , they havi g no idea miles , but reckon the time it takes the donkey to travel o f that distance . The population Jerusalem at the present time is about thirty thousand , made 1 JAMES BATCHELDER . 6 up of nearly every natio n on the face o f th e globe . The largest portion , however, is Arabs ,

. m and the next Je w s I met an A erican crank hi mh i w s there , and asked hat he was doing , and reply w a s that he w a s waiti n g for the second com f ing o Christ . I told him I thought he was fool t o ish wait there any longer , for I th ought if se Christ Should come a second time , he would

. t lect a better place The crank lef me in disgust, and I never s aw him after . While here I formed the acquaintance of the American Cons u l and hi s wife , a Mr . and Mrs . Merrill , from Massachusetts , e n whom I found very pleasant people , and I joyed several visits with them , besides having h a d the pleasure o f their company o n th e stage t o a s on Joppa , they went a visit to that place . also . I met them again , some two weeks later, at Be root y , in Syria , I having gone there by steamer B r from Joppa . I went from e y oe t by stage to

o ve r . Damascus , passing Mt Lebanon , a distance of eighty miles . This is a mountain range ex tending from northeast t o southwest nearly one hundred miles in length , and from ten to twenty h as o f in width . It an elevation about seven h To thousand feet above t e level of the se a . the f m t o eas this ountain is another range , called

Anti Lebanon , running parallel to it . Between these two is a valley called El Bukar . The width of this valley varies from twelve t o twenty miles .

The ancient Crentes River runs through it . And 62 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

the River Jordan takes its rise here . The View from the mountain over this valley is very pi ct u r

. e esque Extensive groves of olive , mulb rry , C orange , lemon , itron , and fig trees are to be

seen everywhere , also vineyards and grain fields . Th e cedars of Leban on are mostly things o f the

n of . past, there bei g but a few them left There are numerous towns and villages alon g these dis mountains , and they are inhabited by two an d e tinct races , known as the Druses the Mar n ites . There are also Turks , Greeks , and Jews , bu t they are few , and do not form an important a l i part of the population . U pon making an pp f on cation at th e stage o fi ce for a seat the stage , I found all the seats were engaged for the day trips

' three or fou r days ahead , so I was compelled to n make the delightful trip by ight, if I made it at f r all . So I procured a ticket o the evening stage ,

M. Be root fi ve . leaving y at P , and arriving at Da ’ ma scu s th e n . at eight o clock ext morning On taking my seat in the coach I found that my traveling companions consisted of two Arabs as

d . as passengers and an Arab river This , I can

w a s n e t v sure you , a ery pleasant position to be ’ n o n - placed in , when starti g out an all night s

u . j ourney over such a ro gh country However , n after going a short dista ce , I came to the con elusion that my fellow - travelers were per fect gen t l e me n , and would have been Splendid company w a s could they have spoken English . As it , they JAMES BATCHELDER . 6 3

a n d n e w tried to talk with me , every and then me sa would smile and shake hands with , and y , “ ! Araba Tie , which I afterwards learned meant “ ! - in English , good morning . About midnight a t e l a w e arrived Dier Kamar , a little less th n w a s half w ay to Damascus . Here I informed u that I co ld get something to eat , and I lost no n o f time in taki g advantage the opportunity , and had the pleasure of enjoyi n g as fine a supper as on e could wish .

‘ th e h d is Damascus , Mo amme an Paradise , among on e the oldest cities in the world , and the only of h the an c1 e n t cities that a s never been destroyed . It resisted th e conquering armies of King David w h o i and Solomon , with this exception re gned over all th e land between the Jordan and Eu ph ra t e s Rivers . The city is beautifully situated o n a plain east n of the Anti Lebanon Ra ge , about eighty miles

from Be y root . The principal street of the city is h a s called Strait . It been known by that name for upwards of t w o thousand years and is so re n corded in th e Bi ble . It ru s through the ba

za a rs “ , and extends far into the country , with l of houses bui t on both sides it . The bazaars are n very exte sive , and filled with the finest of goods , d such as carpets , sa dlery , copperware , curios ,

slippers , Damascus steel , cutlery , and silver and k w or s . w h o metal The city is full of beggars , follow th e strangers up with their pitiful cry for 64 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

backsheesh , until their presence becomes unbear

. on e able But, should feel charitably disposed , fe w o f and give to a them , the number suddenly increases to so many that it would take a small

fortune to supply them . One often has to call in

t h e o f so assistance an officer to disperse them ,

that he may be able to walk in peace . But ,

even then , they are likely to meet him at the next corner with the same cry ; then his only h ope o f o f o mgetting rid them is to g to his hotel , and re ain there until they leave , to hunt up some s fresh victim . I w a compelled to do this several times during my stay there . Dogs are considered mn sacred animals in Da ascus , also in Consta tino ple , and all the Mohammedan cities , and , in con sequence , the streets of those places are overrun

with them , as it is considered a Sin to kill them . o n e They seem to belong to no in particular , and mo n u o n anage to live what they pick p the f o . streets , until they die old age Sometimes at ’ night they gather under one s window , and hold

a regular concert there , which they continue for

u of on e ho rs at a time , and , by the variety voices , would imagine they were trying to play the opera

o f Pinafore . The plain on which Damascus stands is more

a th n fifty miles in circuit , covered with the most formI n a w v beautiful gardens an d orchards , g a

ing grove , rich with the most luxuriant foliage A and luscious fruits . The river bana runs

66 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF

f th e mouth of the river Cay stru s . At the time o Augustus it was the greatest place of trade of all th e twelve Ionic cities of Asia Minor . It was in this condition at the time it w a s visited by St . h w o . Paul , resided there three years Near the west end of th e town are found some massive 1 868 structures , which , since , have been carefully be excavated , sometimes as much as eighteen feet I t n l o w the surface . is e w certain that these stand on the site of the famous Temple of Diana , im one of the seven wonders of the world . This mense building w as once destroyed but was re built in greater splendor than before . It was the n largest Greek temple ever constructed . Its le gth w a s - fi ve four hundred and twenty feet, and its h a d on e width two h u ndred and twenty feet . It

- - si x hundred and twenty eight columns , thirty of of which were finely carved solid marble , and on were Sixty feet high . Ephesus stood a plain broken by hills that were high , but easy of as mu cent . Probably all or ost of the p blic build ing stood on the summits of these hills , while th e l oWe r grounds were occupied with dwellings and sh e ps . There is no reason to doubt that this w as or a noble city , some two three thousand years n ow ago , but there is not one single human habi r tati e n within the ancient city . Eve ything is in w i s ruins , and the hole area strewn with frag n m ents of marble colum s . We returned t o Smyrna in season to take the next steamer en r ou te to Constantinople . JAMES BATCHELDER . 67

Our trip to Constantinople w a s very pleasant h and full o f int erest . After passing through t e Dardanelles we landed at the historical islands of Rhodes and Patmos . The latter place is where w a s the Apostle John banished by the Rom ans , and where he sa w the vision which caused him to ! w rite the “ Revelations recorded in sacred his tory . Constantinople is the capital of Turkey , o f and is a city strange contrasts . Like the city

of . a Canton , distance lends a charm While p e w e te a t pr aching it , were deligh d the sight of its marble palaces , tall towers , beautiful gardens , and . m agnificent mosques in every direction . But

o u to when y enter the city , these attractions seem vanish . The streets a re narrow and dirt v a n d alive with dogs , while the dwellings and shops

c . are cheap , frail stru tures The city stretches over plain , valley , and hill on either side of the

a s t h e se e . Bosphorus , far as eye can The por tion south of the Golden Horn and west of the is w Bosphorus kno n as Stamboul , while that por tion north and west of the Bosphorus is known as

Pera . The portion which occupies the eastern

a s . bank is known Scutari Yet Stamboul , Pera , and Scutari are all included in th e one great a n d noble city of Constantinople . The sea at this place is a highway of commerce and a pleasure lake combined . Although it divides the city , it n ot o u t d o r is forced by wharves, ocks , piers on Yo u n either side . will find people in Co stantino 68 LIF E AND TRAVELS OF ple of every nationality from the three great con t i n e nt s an d , Europe , Asia , and Africa , when stand o n ing the bridge of the Sultana Valide , which o u connects Stamboul with Galata and Pera , y of will see people all nations and all grades , from th e gorgeous pasha to the beggars in filth and

a rags . It is a moving p norama , such as is seen n i s in no other city under the su . It composed E of Turks , Greeks . Cossacks , Moors , Jews , gy p i tians , Caucasians , Syr ans , Tartars , Hottentots , a n d f . v a French dandies , hal nude negroes The ri ou s of costumes are all colors and styles , from

that of Adam to the latest Parisian fa shion . The

principal street is the grand Rue de Pera . It is long and so narrow that two carriages can scarcely h s . a go abreast It no sidewalks , and men , women , d s mr o o horses , camels , carriages , and g ingle p

miscu ou sl l o f . y in the midd e the street Some of h the people are very poor . Beggars infest t e n d a . streets by day , robbers infest them at night The Mohammedan women always conceal their on faces when the street, and the wife occupies a different part of the house from that of her hus ma n d band , not even taking th eir eals together , they never meet except when he chooses to pay o u r w e h e r a visit . On voyage to Constantinople had among our passengers a Turkish j udge and

his four wives . The wives were not allowed to

occupy staterooms , nor to eat at the table , but bu t h had to sleep on deck , with nothing t eir JAMES BATC HELDER. 69

shawls for beds . Their meals were served to them on deck by the steward . Not so with their l o rd h a d liege and master , however, for he his t ook stateroom , and his meals at the table with

o f a the rest the passengers . A Turk is llowed to

‘ h e . have seven wives , if can support them At of their homes they are m ere toys their husband , and live in constant dread of being supplanted w as by a younger and fairer rival . While I in ' the city , I took a trip up the Bosphorus on a small steamer . Our landings were made first on on the Asiatic side , and then the European side

vi ce versa w e and , until were nearly up to the t h e Bl a ck Sea . It took j ust five minutes to make A t trip from one side to the other . the end of th e the route I left steamer , and started to climb f a high hill , which would have af orded me a fine view o f the Black Sea a n d the surrounding coun w a s so try, but the weather hot I had to give it sa up . I t down to rest on a small elevation over a looking large Turkish fort . While Sitting there

of sa w a n d the commander the fort me , , thinking I wa s afraid to proceed farther o n account of rob

ki n dl v bers who infest that region , sent three armed men from the fort t o escort me to the top of the hill ; but, after I explained to them through n ot my guide my reason for proceeding , and a th nked them for their kindness , they returned to the fort . The Turkish soldiers are poorly dressed and very poorly paid , receiving only ten 70 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

k cents per day , and they are luc y if they get that , as the government is often in arrears in keeping them paid U p . I h a d a great desire to see the so s sultan , my guide led me to where I could e e hi mh hi e s as passed on way to the mosque . i n This was on Friday , that being their Sabbath f o . i stead Sunday We met w th some difficulty , h v owever, for , on arriving at the icinity of the w e mosque , found that an armed guard had taken

' of l e a din from possession the street g the palace to th e o n e w a s mosque , and no allowed to stand on as the street . But we had come there for the ex o f w e press purpose seeing him , found a party w h o was willing to let us stay in his store until u m s the sultan had passed , for the modest of a i . m mageda , a Turk msh dollar The distance fro h t o t e palace the osque w a s about a half a mile . The guard w a s composed of several regiments of soldiers , reaching the entire distance . Th e sultan rode by in a carriage , and remained at the

. n mosque an hour After retur ing to the palace , the guard formed into companies and marched t o d their barracks . They made a fine display ressed

m. in their gaudy unifor s One of the great sights to be seen in Constanti n ople is the Turkish ba

w . zaar , which is the largest of its kind in the orld t It is situated in S amboul , and occupies several

blocks , all under one roof, aud having narrow

streets running through it, used by pedestrians n oise only . In passing through , one will hear JAMES BATCHELDER . 7 1 and confusion in as many different languages as must have been heard at the b uilding o f the tower o f Babel . Another interesting thing to be

O seen there is the mosque f St . Sophia . It is the n only one in that city open to Christia visitors . It is supposed to contain the tombs of the mn E peror Co stantine and his mother , the Em press Helena . The walls are composed of rich mosaics , around which are Arabic inscriptions

m . fro the Koran written in letters of gold The vast galleries are supported by stately columns of th e green granite , and large dome , which is lighted at night by ten thousand burning candles , rises a s high above the city . It w erected in the fifth

’

. a t century , and is the only rival of St Peter s

Rome .

From Constantinople I went to Athens , and i vis ted both the ancient and modern cities . The seaport of Athens is Piraeus . The distance to

Athens is four miles , and the road leads between a n d hills groves of olives . The Acropolis remains o f constantly in sight , but the city Athens does n o t come in View until o ne gets close to it . The ancient city is situated on a rocky hill which rises from the middle of a plain . The upper part was called the Acropolis , and the lower part the K l at apo is . Nothing remains n e w but a part of the fortress of the once renowned Acropolis on t h e of A t h e hill , which boasted the finest work

. mw a s nian art Its principal orna ent the temple 7 2 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

t of Minerva , the Parthenon , which in its presen h condition is t e admiration of th e world . It w as

- two hundred and fifteen feet long , ninety seven feet broad , and seventy feet high . In it stood the of gold and ivory statue Minerva by Phidias . Fifty - fi ve columns still remain at the entrance to the temple , and some enormous blocks of marble are resting upon them . Of the temple of Nep ar e tune some beautiful fragments still to be seen , and it is easy to trace the circuit of th e amphi theater . Outside the Acropolis lie the temples of o n e Thesus and Olympian Jupiter , on the north and the other on the south side . The first is of

r n - Doric st ucture , and surrou ded by thirty six fine h T i . pillars . e interior s full of beautiful sculpture mt Outside the temple stand several arble sea s

brou ght from the neighboring Areopagus . Of this nothing more is left th a n a chamber hewn in the rock , to which a flight of steps , also cut in the

rock , leads . Of the temple of Olympian Jupiter, enough of the formation wall is left to Show its n a s proportio s , as well its magnificent columns ,

- a s fifty eight feet in height . This temple w the most superb building in Athens . The exterior was adorned with one hundred and twenty fl u ted

fift - a n d columns , y nine feet in height six feet in of diameter . All three temples were built the

finest white marble . Not far from the Areopagus P u x w is the g , here the free people of Athens were a n o w accustomed to debate . All that rem ins of it

74 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

other small towns are scattered on its sides . Tak

t O . ing a guide , I went to th e p of Mt Vesuvimus It was belching forth smoke and lava , and y

of - h o t guide got me a piece red lava , from which

I lighted my cigar . Pieces of lava are continually thrown from the crater high in the air , and after falling to the surface , and while yet soft , the f guides frequently press pieces o coin into them . After it has cooled off the coin is found t o be firmly imbedded in th e lava These they sell to f tourists as souvenirs o Vesuvius . The crater is e now easily reached . \V took a conveyance and a o f rode to within a short dist nce the summit , where we took an elevated railway car , which runs very nearly to the t op by means of an e nd less wire rope at an an gle of about This n n railroad is ni e hundred yards lo g , and is thir teen hundred feet higher a t th e upper end than at t h e lower . The cars can carry twenty persons at h e . t e a trip At terminus of the r ad , a short walk

- brought us to the crater . It is a wild looking place . Thick smoke keeps issuing from the deep a n d cracks here there , and at times it is almost n n t w o stifling . Some of the ope i gs are and three feet wide , and by looking into them we could see a i r h t twenty or thirty feet down . The is o enough r ol d in some places to easily oa st eggs . The crater is now almost filled up , and is forty or fifty rods o f distant from the present one . Beds lava are o e r n scattered all v the sides of the mountai , hav 5 JAMES BATCHELDER . 7

ing been belched forth from time to time . The lava is piled up forty and fifty feet high in some

. V places The first eruption of esuvius , on record , 79 took place in the year , which destroyed , with r u l an e u m e e c oth r villages , the cities of H , Pompeii , and Stabia . These were buried for seventeen hun dred years , and were only discovered by chance . 1 500 Until the year , history records nine eruptions , and since then there h ave been forty - eight very s e f vere ones . One o the most terrible was that of the 1 6th 1 631 of December, , in which three thousand persons perished , and several towns were destroyed . From that time u p t o 1 872 there have been eleven n 26th large ones . The last o e occurred on the 1 872 f of April , , and lasted several days , of ering scenes of horror and devastation . About fifty v isit ors e I ht perished , among whom were g med ical students . More than forty thousand persons

ma . fled fro N ples to escape its terrible fury This frightful eruption has left a sa d memory in the minds of all w h o were unfortunate enough to have witnessed it . f I also visited the ruins o Pompeii . It lies on the Opposite side of the mountain from

Naples . A large area of this ancient city has du on e been g out , and can walk through streets and squares twenty feet below the s u r f face . Some o the buildings are two stories of high , and in a fine state preservation . They are vacant , however, as all the contents h ave been 76 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF removed and distributed amon g th e differen t u of m seums the world . On some of the walls and ceilings I saw some of the finest fresco paintings

u I have ever seen , and the sculpt re work is also f n . o m very fine A small force e are constantly

ou t ‘ digging the old city , the material taken out l w being used to fill in the o lands . This work is n do e by the Station Government . All visitors are for charged three francs (sixty cents) admission , and are furnished a guide who speaks the language of the visitor . This makes it all the more interest ing , as the guide points out all places of interest , and explains the rank each buildin g held in the time of its glory . History points t o this city as

. t i n 600 C. Sab a having been founded years B , by a colony . The Romans made it a retreat from the f noise and tumult of Rome . It was a fine city o about thirty thousand inhabitants . It was built at the southern base of Vesuvius , at the end of a

Sa r n o a n d promontory near the mouth of the river , n i having the se a o both sides . We f nd in history 59 ou t that , in the year , a quarrel broke , during of the combats gladiators in the amphitheater , of N orce rin e s between those Pompeii and the , in

mof t . which any the la ter were killed The peo

of w h o ple Norcera applied to Nero , laid the case w h o before the senate , suspended all public spec taeles in Pompeii for ten years . In the year 63 it was partly ruined by an earth n quake . The terrified inh abita ts fled from the city , JAMES BATCHELDER . 77

but soon returned , and Pompeii was recovering its

s l e n do r 23d o f past p , wh en , on the August , in the 79 b ro ke year , . the dreadful eruption of Vesuvius ou t n u fo r o u t t or , and co tin ed three days , pouring of rents inflammable matter , pumice stone , boiling f . o water, and ashes The wooden roofs the houses

of were burned , or sunk in , under the weight accumul ated matter . Very few skeletons have o f been found , which goes to show that the most r the inmates had time to escape . Some even e

du turned , g into their houses , an d took all th e l things of va ue that they could carry . Pompeii o f was covered with a stratum earth , pumice stone , and ashes to the depth of about twenty feet . The o n 1 st 1 784 excavations were begun the of April , ,

t h e o f under Charles Third . The first objects art were discovered by some co u ntrymen who were digging near the spot . The walls were discovered 4 in 1 81 . The city had been surrounded by a double w all varying from twenty - fi ve to thirty

a feet in height . At stated dist nces are to be seen f the ruins o towers . All but two of the gates were entirely destroyed . The streets are straight

a f and very narrow . The tr cks o the wheel are still visible in the pavement . The streets are all

a paved with lava , having a r ised footpath on each side . Public fountains we re placed at the entrances of the principal streets . All this wealth and Splendor were swept away in less time than it takes to write about it . On my return to Naples , 78 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

’ n I visited the ki g s palace , the National Museum ,

a of co n and sever l other places note , and then “ ! ti n u d n e e. my jour ey to the Eternal City , Rom n ol d w a s Naples is three thousa d years , and founded by the Greeks before Rome was ever is o f. y thought It the largest city in Ital , con taining about five hundred thousand inhabitants . But the interior of the city is far from being n or beautiful , does it contain any great monu ments of antiquity , and in many respects it is a

to . disagreeable place be in The streets are dirty ,

w d . narro , crooke , and very noisy Many of the people arme poorly dressed , and beggars are numer ous . Cri e, vice , and debauchery have left their marks upon many o f the faces . During my stay there when wishi n g to take a walk through the w a s n city , I cautioned before leavi g the hotel to w a s beware of pickpockets , and , in consequence , ever on the lookout . The situation of the city is

u . h a s very pict resque It a mild climate, and the surrounding country is very fruitful . My journey from Naples to Rome took seven hours by rail , all of which time I spent in antic in u ip a t g and realizing the bea ties of the scenery . It is useless for me to try t o enumerate all the places and obj ects of interest both ancient and modern t o be seen in and around Rome . mThere is V the atican , the Capitol , the ancient and odern palaces , the Colosseum , the churches , which are also repositories of art , the seven hills , the Apian JAMES BATCHELDER . 79

F a n d Way , the Suburbs , Albano rascati , a thousand of ruins , all which have their classic history . There is no other city in Europe where a traveler so so can tarry long and find much of interest .

The modern city is a beautiful place , full of plazas , ’ gardens , parks , and fine buildings . St . Peter s Church and t he Vatican palace are among the most noted places in modern Rome . The Vatican is the residence of the pope . It is a collection of build

on e ings on of the seven hills , which covers a space twelve hundred feet in length and one hundred o n feet in breadth . It is built the spot once occu f i pied by the garden o Nero . The Vatican s filled with statues found beneath the ruins o f ancient

Rome . The walls hold paintings from the great

o f est masters , and curios, medals , and antiquities every description are to be seen there . Seventy thousand statues from the ruined temples and h e palaces of Rome av been exhumed , which fact will give some idea of the size a n d I ich n e ss of the

Vatican . ’ is St . Peter s Church the largest of its kind in six the world . It is hundred and eight feet in d length , the height of the nave is one hundre and of fifty feet , and the length the transept is four hundred an d fi fty feet . The height of the dome from the pavement t o the summit inside is four fi ve hundred and feet , and from the pavement to the t Op of the cross outside is four hundred and

- thirty fi ve feet . The high altar stands directly 80 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

is beneath the dome , and a most expensive strue t ture . It is said o stand directly over the grave of

. . I s St Peter The canopy over it solid bronze , and is said t o h ave cost on e hundred a n d ten thousand dollars . The church contains many fine statues of n and paintings . The cost the buildi g w a s over sixty million dollars . The semicircular co] n n d s mf t o a e are co posed o w o hundred and eighty n is immense columns , inclosi g an area which

. m beautifully ornamented There are not any of

t h e n . i ancient buildi gs left The colosseum , wh ch is partly in ruins , was a massive structure in its o f f day . It had the capacity seating u pwards o seventy thousand persons . When Rome was in w a s n its glory , this immense building ofte filled to its utmost to witness the combats between a s gladiators and wild beasts , well as to fence with i n each other with Sharp swords , which case , h imhi s should one disarm the other, and have at mercy , the victor would look up to the audience , t mn o e and , if their sympathies were wi h th e ar ed , a n d they wished to have his victim killed , they t would signify it by poin ing their thumbs upward ,

r while , on the othe hand , if th ey wished the life mo n o f e the disar ed to be spared , they would point their thumbs downwa rd . o n e of The Pantheon , the pride of Rome , and

' the wonders of the world , is the oldest , yet the best preserved building in that city . It is the ich as only temple still standing , wh Paul saw he

8 2 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

I next visited Venice , the city of canals I cannot imagine a more beautiful scene than Venice by moonlight . The canals are then swarming with of u gondolas , in the cool the evening , and m sic ,

u both vocal anmd instr mental , is heard everywhere . All through y travels I never met with a more n of co tented or happy people th an those Venice . f mt The city is considered one o the os beautiful

. w a s in the world It built on marshy islands ,

- a n d a seventy two in number , these isl nds are sub

on e - divided by hundred and forty nine canals , over which are about three hundred and sixty h m bridges . The ouses are ostly built of brick n and covered with plaster , ornamented in fro t by a covering o f white marble . They are generally so situated as to have a communication with a of I n o f canal by means a landing stair the water, which almost every family plies a gondola . The gondolas are used to carry passengers from one part of the city to another , answering the purpose o f o u r street cars here . They are propelled by

o . tw oarsmen , called gondoliers Before Venice on was built, the people the mainland were con bl n side ra y troubled by ba dits , who came down from the Alps and stole th e cre ps which had been ’ stored away for the winter s support . So , in order to protect themselves from these lawless fellows , the people built their houses on these little islands , and as they grew to be stronger they united into one city for their mutual defense and benefit . JAMES BATCHELDER . 3

' W n hen looki g at the city from a distance , it n seems t o be floating o the water . It is divided t w o into unequal parts by the Grand Canal , which v a r i n in runs through it , y gl breadth from one hun n dred to o e hundred and eighty feet . This canal has several small steamers plying up and down it f o f for the accommodation o the people . One the principal sights to be seen i s the historic bell of n St . Marco . This is a wo derful church , but it is beyond my ability to give a description of it . It must be seen to be appreciated . Venice is in a fair w a y of becoming on e of the most importa nt f manufacturing cities in Italy . One o the great n industries is glass m a ki g . mThey employ fifteen thousand people for bead aking alone . They also do a large business in glass blowing , mosaic , and colored enamels . Some of the almost lost arts have been revived , among them artistic cast ings in metal , and lace making . The form er now h as a th e thirteen factories busily eng ged , and latter gives employment to some three thousand women . They also make imitations of antique furniture in ebony and ivory , but instead of using these costly materials they use pear wood and bone with very satisfactory results . n Leaving Venice I went to Mila , and thence to

Basle , in Switzerland . In Milan I visited the cathedral , one of the finest churches in Europe , h h noted for its ornamental arc itecture . T e city u is b ilt after the modern style , and resembles some 84 LIFE AND TRAVELS O F

- of our best built American cities . It is also noted for its musical conservatories . I next went by the w ay of the St . Gothard Railway to the Italian s e e lakes , where I had a chance to the beautiful Me l n ott e historical Lake Como , which Claude pic r d s h i t u e o vividly to s prospective bride .

The St . Gothard Railway , passing over the Alps , is the most remarkable piece of railroad engineer

. w a s 1 882 ing in the world It finished in , having taken ten years for its completion . It was built by the governments of Germany , Italy , and Swit ze rl a n d s u mof m , each furnishing a stipulated oney towards it . The total cost was nearly fifty millions of dollars . To enable the men to build the road , four cross lines had to be built right i n the heart of the mountain , in order to approach the main tun

I s . nel , which nine and a quarter miles in length so As the grades were steep , tunnels had to be cut of in the sides the mountains , mand the road forms i m a complete circle in the rock , so ething like an

w . ou t mense corkscre After coming of the tunnel , d be l o w se e one can look down a hun red feet , and the part of the track we were on j ust before we e n

t e re d . u the tunnel There are fo r places , each hav u u ing two s ch t nnels , on this road , and when the s e e train curved the last time , you can from the car window two other tracks , one below the other , which the train had j ust a short time before passed oven There are on this line fi fty - four tunnels in 5 JAMES BATCHELDER .

i s . all , but the St . Gothard the largest in the world h It is nine and a quarter miles long , eig t feet

- o n e . broad , and twenty feet high It contains a double track , and is lined with masonry through

e t. out . It t ok eigh years to bore it, and cost about Th md . e thirteen illion ollars boring machines Ca stl h orn were worked by compressed air . The e rises six thousand and seventy - six feet above the h center of it , and Salla Lake rises three t ousand three h u ndred and fifty feet above . The moun tain scenery to be seen while riding over that road

is grand . I have been up in the Green Mountains t of of Vermont , the Whi e Mountains New Hamp th e N e shire , Alleghany , Rocky , and the Sierra b u t vada , this rivals them all in wildness and

grandeur . After reaching th e top , we descended

in the same manner . The road winds along th e shore of Lake Lu

' e a ff cerne for quit distance , a ording a fine view of o n e either side , and can see peak rising above of n n peak the eighbori g mountains , in countless

numbers . Lake Lucerne is a beautiful body of a water , noted for its m gnificent scenery . Its great

- est length is twenty three miles , lying somewhat

f . in the form o a cross Mt . Rigi is in this neigh borh ood con , and an elevated railroad has been

structed to the t e p . The cars are propelled by co g wheels , running in cogs in the center of the

track . This road is built similar to the one run

tO . ning to th e p of Mt Washington , in New

Hampshire . 86 LIFE AND TRAVELS .

w e s te e d After leaving the lake , pp within a short distance of the town of Altorf. This is the of i o f place the tradit onal scene William Tell , the

‘ liberator of Switzerland from the Austrian yoke . 1 861 A colossal statue of Tell , erected in , is said to occupy the spot where the intrepid archer aimed at t he a ppl e placed o n the head of his son by the

l r G e s e . tyrant, It is said that the lime tree where 1 son 567 . Lu his stood , lived till The ride from t cerne o Basle is very pleasant . Here and there

a castle , or the ruins of one , comes to View from

a the highest points , as we rapidly p ss along .

We s a w many women working o u t in the fields , o f A taking the place the men , while here in mer ica a w oman is seldom seen doing a man ’s h o rk labor . The women of Europe w w o in the h o e fields handle the , fork , and spade as well as

any man , and they are stout and coarse featured ,

compared w ith ou r delicate American women . is Basle a beautiful city , and one of the oldest ol d and largest in Switzerland . It dates from the on Roman times . It is situated the Rhine , above

n avigation .

From Basle I went to Zurich . The National w as Exhibition being held there at that time , and they had the finest display o f mechanical and

!

agricultural implements I ever sa w . I C H A P T E R V .

O F THE W CONCLUSION A TRIP AROUND ORLD .

ROM Zurich I went to Munich , in Ger

many , crossing the beautiful Lake Con

stance to Lindon . I journeyed th e rest

o f . the way by rail While at Munich , they were holding their International Art Exhibition . It w as the grandest collection of p aintings a n d s a sculpture I ever w . Munich is one of the art h a s centers of the world , and numerous art gal l ri e e s .

t o a n d I next went Lin z , in Austria , from there by steamer down the Danube to Vienna . t n u I think this ci y ra ks next to Paris in bea ty .

ou t i s It is very artistically laid , and kept in ex u is it q e order . It abounds in magnificent build

. o l d ings , and more are being built In the of portion the city the streets are narrow , but the new part has broad avenues , which stretch for (87) 88 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

miles , and the fine buildings give it the appear

o f . f ance of a city palaces It also boasts o beau; tiful parks and public gardens . The Prater i s a n natural park , comprisi g several low islands , of th e formed by arms Danube River . It is t w o a th e divided into parts , c lled Upper and

Lower Prater , by the Prater Avenue . This park on d is Open Sundays and week ays . It contains f u cof ee houses , panorama , circ s , swings , jugglers , n of rustic kitch ens , lo g rows tables and benches , an amphitheater , and trains of carriages ; and , wi th the multitude of people all dressed in their various costumes and engaged in the various on e sports and exercises , forms of the most beau t iful sights to be seen anywhere . V From ienna I went to Dresden , passing through Bohemia . Dresden is noted for its fa mous Chinaware , and it has some very fine art

’ galleries , after visiting which I went to Berlin . I read so much about this place during the Franco - Prussian War that it held particular in - “ th e t e re st for me . I visited famous Unter den ! t h e Linden , where the French proposed to sing n n a Marseilles hym , but a more important e g gement “ in Paris prevented them from doing so . Unter ! “ ! den Linden is to Berlin what Rotten Ro w is to i s London , or the Boulevard is to Paris . It the gathering place of all the wealth and n obility of is Londo n or Berlin . Under the Linden one of the finest streets to be fou nd . It is about a mile

90 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

Berlin has some very fine parks and flower . gardens Just before entering the city , we came to a magnificent fore st of hundreds of acres of t he

finest trees . This has been laid out in parks , with beautiful drives .

About twenty miles from Berlin is Potsdam , the summer residence of the imperial family .

a Near the station is the old p lace , but little used

n e w . roo m It contains the celebrated dining u sed by Frederick the Great when he wished to dine with his ministers , unattended by his serv

ants . The table was so arranged that the center 0 it could be let down into the kitchen , through

a trap door , by means of a secret spring , and

loaded with the choicest viands , then , by the same process , returned to the dining room .

This could be repeated as often as desired . The old church where he is buried is I n Sight of this place . The house in which he lived and died , I n sat w a s the chair which he , and the book he reading when he died , are all shown to the visi o tor . Here als are the graves of his favorite dogs ,

eight in number , and his pet horse . Each has a separate gravestone .

Potsdam has some beautiful parks also . They were laid o u t and planted with trees u nder Fred ’ erick the Great s immediate supervision . The trees are so large n e w that the branches form an

ov e r arch the walks and drives , and , looking up

or down , it seems like looking through a tunnel . E JAM S BATCHELDER . 91 M While in Berlin I met inister Sargent , and had a very pleasant chat with him .

- - - From Berlin I w ent to Frankfort on the Main . This is one of the oldest and richest cities in Ger

mo n o f . any , situated both sides the river Main

a P a l mi a r h as It a very fine public garden , c lled g ten . The grounds are very tastefully laid out , and have a large conservatory filled with tropical l p ants and ferns . This garden is a great Sunday o f resort for the people Frankfort , crowds going there to listen to the music , which is considered is the finest in Germany . The hall provided ‘ se a ts a n d n th e with prome ades , half hidden by o f growing plants , which gives it the appearance a tropical scene . While there I visited the panorama o f the f o . Battle Sedan It was very good . One could hardly tell where nature left o ff and art began . The battle was fought on September b e tween the French and Prussians . From Frankfort I took the cars for Mayence o f n on the head avigation the Rhine , and thence i ’ . s x to Cologne , by steamer It was a hours ri de , full of interest . The scenery was grand , and the steamers were like floating palaces . The ri ver n ot Rhine is very wide , but in some places the current is so rapid th at it goes with the velocity h of a mill stream . All along t e river the steep

o ff hillsides are terraced in a wonderful way , and

vineyards greet the eye everywhere . On the tops 92 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF o f some of the highest hills are old castles , some well preserved , others in ruins . All unite to form — n e n a panorama of an ever changi g scene , and I joyed the trip hugely . Cologne is a fine city of about one hundred and

. m fifty thousand inhabitants The city dates fro the time of the Christian era . A Roman colony w as planted there by the mother of Nero , although there was already a small city there at the time . In the year 308 Constantine the Great built a stone bridge across the Rhine at this place . That h a s a it s bridge entirely dis ppeared , and in place is a t a a nd a fine iron bridge , wh ere c rs , e ms , foot pas

e fr se gers p a ss to and o . The cath edral at Cologne is one of th e finest 1 24 . w as 8 buildings in Europe It begun in , but

- was n ot completed till 1 880. Four and one half h million dollars were spent on it during t at time . n It is built in th e form of a cross . The ave is planked with double and the transit with single aisles . The total length is four hundred and forty - four feet and its breadth is two hundred and o n e seven feet . The walls are hundred and fifty feet high , and the height of the roof is two hun dred and one feet . The height of the larger towers

fi ve . is hundred an d twelve feet These towers , two in number , are the highest in the world ex T cept the Washington monument . his massive stone cathedral is covered with turrets , statuary , im and all sorts of figures , presenting in all a most R JAMES BATCHELDE . 93

posing appearance . Its largest bell was cast from of m the metal a cannon , captured fro the French

- fi ve . during the last war, and weighs twenty tons It stands on a high eminence and can be seen a ’

ff . i long distance o . St Peter s Church at Rome s a n d larger more adorned with works of art , and the cathedral at Milan is more beautiful in some h a s respects , but , take it all in all , that at Cologne no rival among the structures erected for Christian worship . w a s The next place I visited Brussels , the capi P rl i n . a a me tal of Belgium There I visited the tary buildi n gs and also th e famous battle field of f Waterloo . In appearance it is no dif eren t from

n u any other field , and had it not bee for the g ide , who pointed it out to m e , I might have walked

kn I ow mt . all over the historic ground without g I was shown the spot where Wellington and Bl ii ch e r met after the defeat of Napoleon and his

. w as a army That a cold day for N poleon , as cold as it was for his namesake relative when he under took to whip Kaiser William . The battle of

u 1 8 1 81 5 . Waterloo was fo ght on June ,

The battle was between the allied English ,

Netherland , and German troops under Welling re ton , and the French under Napoleon , and it su l t e d in the complete overthrow of the French

. 1 4 emperor On June the forces of Wellington ,

u - tw o comprising abo t ninety thousand British ,

Hanoverian , Brunswick , Nassau , and Netherland 94 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

troops , were stationed between the rivers Scheldt t h e and Nivelles , duke having his headquarters u at Brussels , while Bl cher, with three corps of

Prussians , about ninety thousand men , occupied ’ a d a ce n t co u n t r on Namur , Charleroi , and the j y of both sides the Sambre . Wellington resisted the various attacks of the ’ enemy from ten o clock in the morning till abo u t

five in the afternoon . By this time sixte en thou sand Prussians reached the field of battle , and by

' Bl iI h r 7 P . M . the forces under c e amounted to above

fifty thousand men , with one hundred and four

n h is guns . Welli gton then advanced whole line simu l ta of infantry , and , the Prussians advancing n e ou sl o f y , the rout the French became com th l e t e . e p The total loss of the allies , including

w - Prussians , was about t enty three thousand and that of the French thirty thousand , besides two hundred and twelve pieces of cannon . re Napoleon quitted the wreck of his army , an d n turned to Paris , , fi ding it impossible to raise another army , abdicated . He afterwards surren

th e n w a s . dered to E glish , and banished to St Hel 1 21 5 8 . ena , where he died during exile , May , Several survivors of the enga gemen t who served in that w a r have died during t h e p a st year . A w a s 1 883 few were still living while I th ere , in , and residing with their friends o r relatives in va riou s parts of th e country . Brussels is one of the most beautiful cities in JAMES BATCHELDER . 95

it s Europe , and , like Paris , is celebrated for n n magnifice t squares , public buildi gs , fountains , fo r n walks , and drives , as well as its ma ufactures of

’ n lace , carpets , and other articles . It is also oted

u h a for its bea tiful women , w ich f ct alone would f r prove an attraction o most American travelers .

so I found it particularly in my ca se . ’ I next went to Paris , a day s ride by rail .

w a s th e There not much to be seen along road , Th m. but the sight of Paris ade up for it e city i s pleasantly situated on both sides of the river n ot Seine . Its streets are Spacious , like those of

London , but its public buildings are far more splendid . It abounds in public walks , gardens , a a s w and other pl ces of amusement , ell as in ex

a tensive and valuable libraries , and liter ry and charitable institutions . It is considered the gay est, and by many the most fashionable city in th e f world . One o the great features of Paris is the

Triumphal Arch , built by Napoleon . It is the i gra ndest structure of its kind n the world . It is o n e hundred and forty - seven by seventy - three

on e - feet at the base , and hundred and Sixty two

- fi feet high . The central archway is forty ve feet broad and ninety feet high . I t s inner walls are inscribed with the names of three hundred and

- - eighty four generals and ninety six victories . The finest sculptured ornaments are four groups of o f colossal figures , one which represents the de 2 parture o f the army in 1 79 . There are ten 96 LI F E AND TRAVELS O F streets and broad avenues radiating from the arch . One is the Avenue de Imperatrice , which w a a consists of a carriage y , foot walks , and bridle road . It is nearly a mile long and three hundred feet wide , bordered by continuous n garde s , outside of which on either side is still another carriage road , and beyond this are gardens and vill as . This avenue leads to the

- - of Be u l o n e much read Bois de g , an extensive park laid out in the modern style of l andscape gardening . It has the appearance of a large for

of . h as est , and is on the outskirts the city It beautiful drives anmd bridle paths in every dire c tion , and is visited ostly by the upper classes of society . On pleasant afternoons you can see lines o f carriages containing th e wealth and beauty of i i x Par s . The lines of carriages often are five and S l on miles g , extending clear around its beautiful lake and far up the Champs Elysees . Th e Jardin de Acclimation is a park which l attracts all classes of people . Th e zoo ogical gar i n is a n i den is this park , and well stocked with mals and birds . A band discourses fine music every afternoon , attracting crowds of people . One f mst is o the o attractive promenades of Paris the

Boulevard Interior . It follows for three miles what were once the fortifications on the northern side of the ancient city . It is one continuous ave

f . nue , but certain parts go by dif erent names

One part of it is called de s Italiens . It is an old

98 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

a a s m gnificent buildings some cities , still , it con tains a great number of splendid edifices . Among ’

ma . them y be mentioned St Paul s Church , which , ’ if we except St . Peter s in Rome , is the finest in the world . In commerce and manufactures it ex cels every other city , and it abounds in literary

h u ma n e i n s tit u ti o n s . and Almost everything that the ingenuity of man has invented is made here in a high state of perfection , and many articles are unrivaled in their excellence . The population of London is about fo u r mil is l i on fi ve hundred thousand . It estimated that a birth takes place every four minutes , and in every six minutes a death occurs . It contains l o f many thousand mi es streets , and an aver age of twenty - eight miles of new streets are opened , and about nine thousand new houses on e built in a year . There are about hundred r thousand foreigners in the city , f om every quar ter of the globe . n It contains many beautiful parks and garde s .

Hyde Park is the most popular, and may be ’ called the pee ple s park . Rotten Row and the ’ a n d n Ladies Mile are in this park , are k own the of world over . Th e beauty and wealth the city can be seen at this park any afternoon during the summer months . Princes , dukes , lords, members — dri v of Parliament all mix in with the crowd , ing in their elegant turnouts , or riding fine horses , and all vie in showing off to the best advantage . 9 JAMES BATCHELDER .

There are several fine old oak trees , the oldest of which is said to be not less than four hundred and fifty years o f age . All kinds of games are i n du l e d g in , but football and cricket are the favor K n si n st on is a . e ites g Garden ne r by , separated from it by the Serpentine , which is crossed by a handsome stone bridge . This place is more like a private garden than a park , the public not

n . w bei g allowed to drive in it Ho ever , it is a favorite promenade . I t s principal attraction is the celebrated Albert Memorial , erected by Queen of Victoria in memory her late h usband , the

. m Prince Consort It is the finest and ost costly private monument in the world . It is said to have cost It rests on a polish ed gran

’ i a s on t e b e e hundred an d thirty feet square . The a four corners supporting it are of white m rble , — represe n ting groups of figu re s inhabitants o f the four quarters of the globe . Above these groups n man u fa ctu r commr e ce are four more representi g e , agriculture , and engineering , while at the base there are life - size fig u res of some of the most noted n men . The statue of the Prince Co sort I s III the n center , and represents him in a sitti g posture . It o f a s a l so is gilt bronze , is the whole canopy .

e R gent Park is another favorite resort . It is very w o l d beautiful , ith its grand trees and lovely

a for drives , which extend round its outer edge f two and a half miles . A part o this park con tains the zoological garden , which has the largest 1 00 LI F E AND TRAVELS OF

of exhibition birds , beasts , and reptiles to be seen anywhere in the world . I visited several other i parks in London but of l e ss n t e re s t .

I also visited the Tower of London . It w as built w as eight hundred years ago , and used as a for tress and palace in olden times ; now it is used as a depository of the nation al arms and accouter ments . The ancient records of the kingdom con tain many documents relative to the warlike stores preser ved in and issued from the tower . Additions were made from various sources until the collec tion contained the most interesting speci

o f mof mens ar or and weapons almost every age of

English history .

In the banqueting room the devices are fine . Themnorth windows contain p a ssion and su n fl ow ers ade of sword blades , ramrods , bayonets , and pistols In th e west window th e rising s u n is well imitated in t h e arrangement of bayonets and

Springs of ramrods . The device in the center of the avenue represents a water spout at se a ; a n

a so . other represents pineapple , and on

The numerous halls , galleries , and gardens of mn if the palace in the tower were the scenes of ag i ce nt wedding festivities on the occasion o f t h e n marriage o f Henry the Third . To this mo arch the whole fortress w as indebted for much of t he Splendor and importance it possessed in the early ages . Edward the Third often held his court in this tower . We have ancient records of the mag

1 02 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF our arrival at Loch Le mond we were transferred to a pretty little steamer , on which we crossed the lake . Then we went by stage through the Tre s w y sacks , here the scener is very grand , Ben Lo mond , a lofty mountain plain , being in View during th e whole ride . After arriving at Lo ch o n Katrine , another beautiful lake hemmed in all sides by high mountains , we took passage on another little steamer , crossed the lake , and again took a n d the stage to the railway station , returned b y w rail to Glasgo , reaching there the same ev en n h ing . While o the trip I formed t e acquaint ance o f a party of American ladies from Chicago and California , which , of course , made the trip doubly pleasant to me . l Glasgow on the C yde is , in regard to commerce , n manufactures , and populatio the first city i n ’ Scotland . George s Square is a fine place , situate d in the heart of the city . It contains a large num ber o f monuments erected to the memory of some ’ o f Scotland s most noted men ; among them are Moore u m those of Sir John , Robert B rns , Ja es

Watt , David Livingstone , Robert Peel , and Sir

Walter Scott . From Glasgow I went by steamer down t h e Clyde River and crossed the I rish Ch a nnel t o Bel

t o . W fast , and thence by rail Dublin hile there I V isited Ph oe nix Park and sa w the spot where Lord Cavendish and Secretary Burk were mur dered . I also saw the prison in which the sup JAMES BATCHELDER . 103 posed murderers were confi n ed until th ey were executed . One of the great fea tures o f this place is Dubli n

Castle . It is supposed to have been begun in the 1 20 SO I I of year , by Myles Fitzhenry , a Henry the I t n w a s h 1 220. Seco d , and finis ed in is situated on a Cork Hil l , the h ighest and m ost central p rt w a s a n d . a of the city It a pl ce of great strength , w a s t w o a t h e divided into courts , which are c lled

Th e a upper and lower castle ya rds . upper y rd , or t h e i o f court , contains offi cial res dence the Viceroy , — and the buildings are all uniform red brick w ith l A n blue granite facings on a l sides . archway under the east section of the buildings connects it n with the lower castle yard . The principal e h trance to t e castle opens into the upper yard . a t h e o f The rch over gate is limestone , and bears n o its pediment an elega nt statue of Justice . mt n In the castle a guardroo is fit ed up , wherei C a ompany of foot soldiers are stationed , sentries bei n g posted at the various entrances to th e castl e ’

n . and other promine t points St . Patrick s Hall

- tw o l o n is in the castle , and is eighty feet g , fo rty — one broad , and thirty eig ht feet high . It is hand so me l n o n y decorated with fine fresco pai tings r re the ceilings . In one place St . Patrick is e p t sented converting the Irish people o Christianity . A n othe r place shows He n r v the Second seated u nder a canopy receiving the submission o f t h e i m I r sh Chieftains . A osaic representation of 1 04 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

th e of George Third , supported by figures Liberty and Justice , is seen in the middle circle . At either end of the hall is a large gallery for

n a the musicia s and spect tors . It is here they

a n d n o hold their court balls , one is admitted f unless in court dress or uniform . Cards o admis sion are given to spectators , but they must appear in full dress . Dublin is a pretty city . The buildings on each street seem to have been built all after the same plan , and at the same d an . time , by the same party Dublin is situated at t he head of a spacious and picturesque bay at of ff the mouth the Li ey River , seven miles from the Irish Sea . It is noted for the beauty of it s women , and the biddies can be seen there in all their glory . I have come to the conclusion that the better class of Irish in Ireland are as fine and intelligent as anyone could wish t o meet . I found th em as much so as in any country in

Europe , or , in fact , in any country I have traveled . The class of Irish which we see in Am erica is f f composed mostl y o the scum o Ireland . From Dublin I recrossed th e Irish Sea to Holy h ead in Wales , and from there I went to Liver pool . I spent a few days at Manchester and War ri n gton . At the latter place I paid a Visit to f some relatives of friends o mine in California . n These folks accompa ied me to Manchester , and o u t a l l escorted me over the whole city , pointing places of particu lar interest . Manchester is a

1 06 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

- two and one half miles , and a water space of three

a n d - hundred thirty three acres , which , together an with land sheds , qq , and warehouses , cover of h area one t ousand and forty acres . These fig ures apply only to the La n cast e rsh ire side o f the

Mersey dock and h arbor estate . On the Ch e sl in e shore at Birkenhead there are docks with a water area of one hundred and sixty u four acres , with nearly ten miles quayage , th s making in all a water area of nearly five hundred

- a of . acres , and a total quay ge thirty two miles In addition are twenty - t w o graving docks for repair ing vessels wit h an aggregate length o f floor of s fourteen thousand feet . The whole estate i studded with imposing buildings , such as dock ’ a s m sters residences , custom house , police tations , ffi clock towers , dockyard o ces , etc . On the La n cast e rshire side is a dou ble line of railway tracks fi ve miles in length . There is no part o f the habitable world that can n ot be reach ed from Liverpool . It is connected with New York by a fleet of magnificent steamers wh ich run with almost th e same regularity as ou r railroad trains . Before leaving for America I must give a Short sketch of some of the hotels at which I h a d the pleasure or the misfortune to ste p while in

u . E rope As a rule , they were well kept , but every means was resorted to to extract money from a h strangers . Their rates seemed re sonable enoug , d but little , unexpecte items would appear on th e JAMES BATCHELDER . 07

su m. bill , which would run it up to an exorbitant

The price of the room does not include the light , n o r d such as gas , candle , or coal oil ; does it inclu e a ny service wh atever ; these a re all charged extra H in the bill . o t water and soap are also ch a rged a s a n d a a re extras , v rious unexpected items

to se e added , particularly if they never expect you again . Their motto is to get while they have the chan ce . The employes of the hotels are required t o show th e great respect to guests , and , when a guest a in or o u t w ho p sses , all happen to be near the a t he entr nce at time , lift their caps and bow in i respect . Th s applies to Italy in particular . All of the servants expect a l ittl e something from the guest when he is a bout to depart ; this is ca lled

a tipping . When the guest is re dy to leave , the the manager rings a bell , and in an instant cor rid e r is filled with servants from all parts of the

. O n e mso house would never i agine there were

a some h o h a d n o t m ny , but among them are w been seen by th e guest before , and , although they ou have rendered y no service , they expect to share ot he rs with the in the everlasting tips . They all fol l o w to the carriage , shower you with good wishes and a bon voyage . The restaurants along the railways OII the Con tin e n t on are very good , and some lines they seem t o n o e . be all under management The conductor , or guard , as he is called there , takes your order 1 08 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

for dinner and telegraphs it ahead , and , when the train arrives at the station , dinner is brought to ou y on a platter . You can eat your meal at your leisure , while the train moves speedily on to the next station . Here the tray with it s dishes is taken away and sent back on the returning train , o r kept there in exchange fo r some which had been taken to the other station by pa ssa nge rs go ing in the Opposite direction . The railways all through Europe are well built and kept in splen did order . The trains are run at a very high rate t h e n of speed , and block sig al system is used on most of the lines . By this system they avoid a o cide nt s , which are so frequent in this country , for n o two trains can be between two stations at the n same time . The forward train in passi g a sta tion sets a danger signal , which remains in that a n position till the train passes the next st tio , when

is s e t o n e so it dropped , and at the next , and on a long the entire length of the re a d. This works automatically , by means of electricity , and is a great safegu a rd to trains following each ot h e r o n a l l the same track . The railways in Euro pe have

d a r e o double tracks , and no two roa s all wed to cross each other on the level ; one h a s to go u n der the other ; nor is a carriage road allowed to cross a rail wa v on the level . The roads are all well n t o fe ced , and no one is permitted walk on the

of . track , under penalty . arrest and fine Police a re stationed all along th e track . The cars are

1 1 0 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF While on the voyage a death occurred among the deck hands . One of their number was sick wh en n o . we left Liverpool , and died the way He was h f buried at s e a . It w a s t e first amnd only case o the kind that occurred during y long journey around the world . On reaching New York I stayed a few days to visit places of interest, among them

Central Park , the new suspension bridge , etc . n t o mt e I ext went Massachusetts , where I a

- fi v brother whom I had not seen for twenty e years . I stayed with him a short time and then continued

t o N e w my journey Hampsh ire , where I found other relatives whom I h a d not seen for the same o f length time ; and , had they not known I was coming , they would never have recognized in me the person w h o h a d parted from them s o lon g ago . h I paid t em a little visit , and then left for Phila n fe w delphia , where I remai ed a days , and then n departed for Chicago , remai ing there three weeks ol d to visit friends , who took me in charge and pointed o u t a l l t he places of note in and about that h i m T c large an d interesting cimty . e pla e had proved se much during my residence in California that I could see no rese blance to the Chicago I

- had resided in t wenty fi ve ye a rs ago . It has be

o f come late the largest pork , lumber , and wheat a v center in the world . The beauty of its parks ,

n s is e u e , and buildings not much surpassed by an ything of the kind which I sa w d u ring my

travels elsewhere . JAMES B A TCHELDER . 1 1 1

a one From Chic go I went to New Orleans , of s t ~ the oldest cities in the United States . It was e

tl e d by the French in early times , and is laid out ol d very much like some of the cities in Europe . en r ou te From there I took the cars to California , n stopping a few days at San Anto io , Texas . This e is a pretty little city , the hous s being built mostly of so white sandstone , which is soft that it can be h sawed in blocks , and the buildings w en com pl e t e d h ave the appea rance o f having been u pai n ted white . The San Antonio River is a bea t m iful stream flowing through the iddle of the

. A n city and is spanned by several fine bridges . f o ol d m. other feature the city is the ission church It is an ancient edifice constructed of massive stones which give it more the appearance of a

castle th an a temple o f worship . It is built within w s the all of a fortress , which was used as a defense

in early times . The San Pedro Springs situated

in San Pedro Park , is a pleasant place to visit . The park is situ a ted on th e outskirts of the town

in a beautiful grove of trees , and contains springs o f pure water , in which are turtles and several

o f fe d kinds fish , which come to the surface to be

by the visitors . Another place of interest is the

Alamo plaza . It was there that David Crockett w and James Bo ie , the inventor of the famous knife , were buried together with those companions w h o fell in heroic defense of the Alamo during the 1 8 5 Texas war of independence from Mexico in 3 . 1 1 2 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

s te i n wa s My next pp g point at Tucson , where I stayed a fe w days and then went to Yuma and of Visited a friend , formerly California , who was employed by the Arizona government as su p e ri n of h tendent the territorial prison located t ere . M y friend showed me all through the prison , and

- a mon I saw some of the hardest looking faces g the criminals confined within its wall that the world ever produced . I also spent a few days at Los Angeles , after which I journeyed direct to th e 1 8th Oakland , California , arriving there on

1 883 . of Decembmer , This co pleted my trip around the world ,

which was to me very interesting indeed . It took me eleven months to make the trip , during which time I traveled at least thirty thousand miles , and visited most all of the principal cities ru in the Old World . I am t ly thankful to the kind providence which watched over me and guided me safely through all the dangers which th reaten both se a and land . And I am glad to be once more at home in my u adopted State . I feel gratef l that I am an American citizen and that I can call America n my home . Each country I visited had its ow

particular attractions and peculiar features , but in n ot one of them did I find such a combination o f all that goes towards making a country desir able for a permanent residence as in o u r own

America . I have learned to appreciate it more

1 1 4 LIFE AND TRAVELS .

or slightest illness ; I never missed a steamer train , n o r was I detained a single day or scarcely an ho u r ; and I never lost a piece o f baggage ; and I

- always met with the best of fellow travelers , who showed me all the respect due to a gentleman . This trip has been accomplished with a great deal of pleasure and enjoyment , and will continue to be a source of enjoyment during the remainder of my life . C H A P T E R V .

A TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT FROM CALIFORNIA T O MASSACHUSETTS .

FTER my return from the trip around th e

world , I spent a part of th e winter in Cal i fo rn ia visiting some of the places o f re n o t sorts I had seen before , namely , Santa Cruz , ’

. a l l Monterey , and Duncan s Mills These are

great resorts for summer tou rists . and all are well fo rme r t w o patronized , the on account of their

fo r facilities for surf bathing , and the latter its a fi n beautiful mount in scenery and e clim ate . 1 884 Toward the last of April , , I left Oakland mthe a on the overland train Central P cific Rail

t h e n road . At Port Costa the whole train with e gine was taken across the Sacramento Ri ver on

l / the ferryboat Se a no. On our arrival at Benici a the train was again transferred to the railroa d (1 1 5) 1 1 6 LIFE A ND TRAVELS OF

w e o n track , and proceeded our j ourney to Sacra

r r i n h mento . We reached that city after e c oss t e g t river on a magnificent bridge . On leaving Sacramento we soon found our selves i n the Sierra Nevada Mountains,where the re ad leads through a continuous line of snow sheds for about forty miles . Donner Lake , which lies several hund red feet below the track on this a route , is called the gem of the Sierr s , and is but two miles from Truckee . This beautiful lake w a s made historical by its connection with the suffer ings o f the Donner party in the winter of 1 847 . It seems stran ge t o a n yo n e not acquainted with the condition of the country a t that time t o read o f the awful sufferings for want of food ; but then

r i n there we e no white settlers the mountains , nor w a s there any habitatio n whatever within a long w as t o distance ; there no food be had , and the people were too weak to make their w a y over the s n o wv mounta ins to the unknown country beyond .

We next came to the Truckee River , which flows through the town at a rapid rate , reminding me very much of the Ab a na in Damascus . It is fed from the waters of Lake Tahoe . Next w e came t t o the Humbold River , with its sink in the quick ’ o f t h e s e ot he r sand . Taking all with lovely sights l to be seen a ong the road , and the good fortune of

meeting with gentlemanly conductors and porters ,

and having pleasant traveli n g companions -e con f o n e sisting o two ladies from Oakland , gentleman

1 1 8 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

h rival at Salt Lake . T e fort lies several hundred feet higher than the city , and from it could be seen a beautiful panorama of the city , lake , and

a o u t valley , spre d before our eyes . After leaving there I traveled via the Den ver “ a i t h e and Rio Gr nde Ra lroad , termed Scenic Route o f the World . This road runs through the great

Salt Lake Basin , in Utah Valley , and passes through some of the most beautiful scenery I ever Th f saw . e Castle Gate consists o two immense towers five h undred feet above t h e track and se p a ra t e d only enough t o allow th e trains and river t o . pass through Then there are the Palisamdes , which appear like large cities , with their do es ,

a n d m spires inarets , reminding me very much of my first sight o f Constantinople from the deck of n m. a the stea er We then ran lo g by the side of th e Price River for quite a distance , winding around short curves , up steep grades , and down

a a a n d the s me , over a comparati vely smooth tr ck , , when night came on and w e w ere obliged to r e

i t w a s t t tire , wi h a reques to be called at five ’ n ms e e . o clock in the orning to Black Ca on This ’ o f mo st place is indeed a piece nature s wonderful

- mi a e work . Its rock bound ch s s are wild and p t u re s q u e in the extreme . Gunnison Ri ver rushes at madly by its base , and cataracts leap from its high cliffs down perpendicular walls thousa n ds of su n feet high , into whose gloomy depths the never penetrates except when at its meridi a n . After 1 1 JAMES BATCHELDER . 9 passing through this canon we came to the to wn f o Gunnison . From there the road begins its d grade , win ing on and up the Rocky Mountains on a grade o f t w o hundred and seventeen feet to mn the ile , crossing and recrossi g till th e Conti n e n t a l Divide is reached and crosse d at Marsh all

“ e Pass , ten thousand seven h undred and fifty fe t

s n abo V e the level of the e a . At this point the s ow was quite deep and still falling . This was on the l st fo r of May , and I began to think my chance Ma fl o w e rs on gathering y was rather slim , but de scending the mo u ntain on t h e other side w e soon came into a warmer climate . Our next piece of fine scenery was what is called n w a s . the Grand Ca on . It grand indeed I advise w h o anyone wishes to take a tri p East , and who o f t o vi a t h e is a lover fine scenery , go Denver and il Rio Grande Ra w a v . After passing through the

- n n n last amed ca on we reached Ca on City . At this place we learned that one of the railroad bridges

b co n se had been burned the night efore , and , in

u e n ce ou r a w a s h r o u s . q , tr in detained three This gave us an Opportunity t o visit the Colorado State i . st e n Prison , located there Our next pp g place was South Pueblo , from which place we continued “ ou r journey to the city of Denver , the queen of th e Rockies . t h e The time over road is quite fast, averaging

- n e twenty eight miles per hour , includi g st ps . At

Denver I stopped at the Windsor Hous e . This 1 20 LIFE A N D TRAVELS CF

r is a good hotel . There a e Several good hotels and h Th n many fine residences in t e place . e U ion o f Depot , built native lava stone , is five hundred

t - on e and three feet long , six y seven feet wide , and

- t o t O of hundred and eighty three feet high , the p the dome . It is one of the best built depot build ings in th e country . On leaving Denver I took the Burlington and e Missouri route , which crosses th e plains for sev ral hundred miles . The land is very poor , and is I use d only for grazing . saw large herds of cat e b t tle and sh ep , u they looked very poor , and a great many had died duri n g the spring . n st e Our ext p was made at Kansas City , which h a d o f many points interest , but my time was lim n ff it e d . The city is perched o a high blu at the f j unction o the Kansas and Missouri Rivers . It is one of the most flourishing and most promising e h as l of the w stern cities , and a arger population d than any of its rivals . It is a large railroa cen ter and a growing business place , and it is destined to be one of the most important points on the A t l a ntic sl e pe west of St . Louis ; but it can never outrival Denver in rega rd to beauty of scenery . Kansas City h a s thirteen trunk line ra ilroads cen tering in it . Our next journey w a s over the Missouri Pacific

Lou I S. line to St . This road runs along the Mis

. so so u ri River bottoms , that there is but little to be seen except the river and a few small towns .

1 22 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF

s tw o n passes over stone tower hu dred feet high . The cost of the bridge w a s a bo u t two hundred thousand dollars . There is a fountain in this city n a n a w a s situated on Fou t i Squ re , which made in

Munich , and was presented to the city by Henry f h P robosco . It is one o t e most magnificent of its

m. kind I have ever seen , excepting those of Ro e The circular water basin in which it stands is

- f about twenty fi ve feet in diameter . The base o the fountain at the water ’s edge has infant figures at either corner , represented as sporting in their

a on th e bath ; and , bove these , there are four sides o f groups statuary with basins at their feet , from whose overflowing brims the water falls in jets . The whole is mounted by a large female figure

h e r n spreading out arms as if bestowing a blessi g , and from the tips of her fingers tiny th reads of water fall , forming into a fine spray . There are some ten or twelve figures in a n d aro u nd this o f beautiful fountain , and the height the crowning

figure is about fifty feet above the street level .

The whole is made of bronze , and cost o f bas in s u r Cincinnati is situated in a sort ,

11 rounded 0 all but the river Side by hills , which

rise abruptly from the city level , and whose tops are reached by an incline rail w ay car drawn by is n a cable . The distance short and at an a gle of

- t O about forty fi ve degrees . At the p and bottom

of the hills the cable cars are met by horse cars , which take the passengers any direction to their 3 JAMES BATCHELDER . 2

t n re destina io . The hills a built up with fi ne res ide n ce s , and a View from their summits on a clear day is grand . There are several fine parks up w i n there and a large lake , which freezes over in ter , making a fine resort for skaters . During my stay at Cincinnati I sa w some of the effects of the

a l l te riot . The wa ls of the bu rned courthouse were still standing , but preparations were being made to pull them down and rebuild . From here I went vi a the Marietta and Cincin

vi a nati Railroad to Parkersburg , thence the Bal timore and Ohio to Washington , stopping over V night at Grafton , West irginia, in order to cross the Alleghany Mountains by daylight . This trip w a s a most delightful one , with the grand scenery

m . composed of ou ntain pines and dashing streams After passing over the msummit of the mountain , the train ran at an enor ous speed , and , when it reached one of the short curves w hich are so nu e n mer s on that line , it seemed as if the cars had no intention of following the engine , but were about to be dashed to destruction into the depths ’ below . At last we safely reached Harper s Ferry . n This is the place where John Brow , with a few n followers , undertook the task of liberati g the t h e w a s slaves , before war broke out , but arrested a n d executed for his foolhardy act . His soul has on been marching ever since , so I think it must be far from here by this time . I saw the ruins of the ol d Confederate fort which w a s destroyed by the Union forces during the War of Rebellion . 1 24 LIFE AN D TRAVELS OF

I n e x t crossed the Potomac River over a fine

d a o f bri ge , then journeyed long the valley the

Potomac to Washington , at which place I visited all the public buildings and places of interest , namely , the Capitol , the White House , Patent

Office , War Museum , Smithsonian Institute , and of the Bureau Printing and Engraving , where the paper currency is made . The government em ploys on e thousand t w o hundred person s at this n o f place , consisti g eight hundred women and s four hundred men . I also a w the spot in the railroad depot w here Garfield was shot . It is m a rked by a star in the floor .

I took a trip down the Potomac to Mt . Vernon , the home and tomb o f Washington . On the way

I landed at Alex a ndria in Virginia . This place w a s figured largely in th e late w a r . It in this place th a t the Marshall House w as rebuilt on the site of the hotel i n which Colonel Ellsworth was

s h ot I n 1 861 a . , , for pulling down Confederate flag of Christ Church , which Washington was a ves s 1 773 t r mn 1s 1 n . w a a y , this city It built in , of brick brought from England . I took a trip to th e N ational Military Cemetery ’ at Arlington , a vast field of the nation s dead .

There , under th e shade of noble oaks , are buried sixteen thousand two hundred and Sixty—four of soldiers of the War the Rebellion ; of these , eleven thousand nine hundred and fifteen are

known , and four thousand three h undred and

1 26 RA LIFE AND T VELS .

i n - new City Hall Philadelphia , forty four feet higher than the great cathedral at Cologne , and ’ - fi . e . ninety v feet h igher than the St Peter s at . Rome ‘ f o m. It is built fine arble Each State in the h a s a Union contributed a block of m rble , finely carved and engraved , to be used in its construe tion . l e a vmn vi a On g Washi gton I went the Penn u sylvania Railroad to New York , passing thro gh

. m Baltimore and Philadelphia I ade a short stay a s at New York , I had Visited that place a short

time before . Leaving h ere I went by the New N e w s York and Haven route to Springfield , Mas , and then vi a the Bos ton and Albany road to Be s w e ton . On the way passed through Hartford ,

Connecticut , where the ol d Charter Oak once stood . On my arrival at Boston I paid a Visit t o some old w friends , formerly of California . I then ent to

New Bedford , where I visited with relatives for

a few weeks , and then started on a trip to Maine

and New Hampshire . C HA P T E R V I .

A TRIP TO MAINE A N D N EW HAMPSHIRE .

trip w a s taken about the middle of

1 884 . June , I stopped over at Boston and witnessed the celeb ration of the one hundred and ninth anniversary o f the Battle of

Bunker Hill . The pre cession was fine . The line of w as march around Bunker Hill , or Monument n Square , in Charleston , Massachusetts . Monume t Square is on the t op of the hill and comprises four acres of ground , in the center of which stands the Bunker Hill Monument . It is two hundred

- and twenty one feet high , thirty feet square at the te base , and fifteen feet at the p , and is built of h solid granite . It a s a flight of winding stairs to t e n the p , from which a fine View of the surrou ding country is mto be had . During y stay in Boston I enj oyed a drive of

some fifteen miles out in the country , passing w through several fi ne N e England Villages . I (1 27) 1 28 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

vi a m then left Boston the Boston and Ma e Rail en r ou te road to Portland , passing through some large manufacturing towns , namely , Lawrence and Haverhill in Massachusetts , Exeter and Dover

Sa CO . in New Hampshire , Biddeford and in Maine V Portland is a pretty place , but business was ery !

. . a dull The Maine liquor law was in full bl st , a s t he t i n t ox i but , I am not in habi of drinking

t o a n v a f cating liquors extent , the law did not

feet me much . From Portland I took a trip to Lewiston vi a ol d the Maine Central , where I found mv friend

Journa l h a d of the Lewiston , who been my travel

ing comp a nion in Palestine a year before . Lewis town is the largest manufacturing town in the o r State . It has some ten twelve large cotton

mills and several large Shoe factories . It lies o n

the bank of the Androscoggin River, which fur

nishes the city with fine water power . On the t h e opposite bank of the river is city of Auburn , which is to Lewiston what Oakland is to San

o r . Francisco , Brooklyn to New York From Lewiston I returned to Portland and thence vi a the Portland and Ogde nb u rg R a ilroad

Ho u se i n u . to the Crawford , the White Mo ntains o u r w e d On way passe by Lake Sebago , a fine body of w ater twelve miles long and n ine miles

- wide . It receives the water of twenty three ponds .

This lake forms the water supply for Portl a nd . a e r ma n There are two small ste m s ki g daily trips

plying between the towns .

1 30 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF is estimated that about ten thousand people Visi t there every summer . From the summit w e h ave o n e a view of thousand miles in circumference , and within this circle can be seen scores of vil ’ of mo u n i t a n s lages and hamlets , and h undreds , with the valleys of the chief rivers of New Eu

l of fi ve f t h e gland , a so a part dif erent States , and

Province of Quebec . Before the ra ilroad was built to the t op o f this

mountain , there were several lives lost from ex 1 851 a s posu re . In there w a young graduate of o f Oxford University by the name Strickland , w h o went up t h e Crawford path and perished by falling over th e cliff. In 1 855 Miss Lizzie Bourne went from the Glen House on fe e t ; when within of thirty rods the summit , which was veiled in a h . T e fog , she sat down to rest , and died there spot is marked by a pile of st o n e near the railroad . In 1 856 Benj amin Chadler got lost on the Glen d . re House path , and ied from exposure His mains were found a year later. I n 1 874 a you n g man from Pennsylvania strayed from the same path and has never been heard of since . The ra il way is three miles i n length and is propelled by a cog wheel running in cogs in the center of the o n e n track . The average grade is thousa d three th e t h e hundred feet to mile , and steepest is

- thirt een a n d one half inches to the yard . There

n o n th e are ine curves road , varying from four hundred a n d ninety - seven to nine hundred and JAMES BATCHELDE R. 31

- n forty fi ve feet ra dius . The ascent takes o e and o n e - th e is half hours , and fare for the round

a o n . trip . A simil r road has since been built Mt o f t h e Rigi , in Switzerland . There is one same

ff a . kind on a high blu b ck of Vienna , in Austria Among the many fine places to be seen from the Crawford House is the Idlewild , a fine forest w hich overlooks the S a co Lake . This glen is

d a n d provi ed with rustic seats and tables , from its position on a high bluff pretty views are to be enjoyed . mn Fro the Crawford House I we t to the town n ot of Bethlehem , the town where our Saviou r w a s a n a born , but a sm ll New E gl nd village in

New Hampshire . This place is devoted almost

is a entirely to summer boarders , and ne rly de d I t se rt e in winter . has between twenty and

a thirty l rge hotels and boarding houses , which can a ccommodate from two to three thousand n persons , and all are filled duri g the season . M i The trip t o the s u mmit of t . Wash ngton a n d

back can be made in a da v.

M n w a s a t t h e y ext stopping place Profile House , t he n h at orth end of the Franconia Notc , in a narrow glen between the w a lls of Eagle Cliff and

Mt . Canaan . Th e glen is one thous a nd nine hun

- u t h l v l dred and seventy fo r feet above e . e e of the n se a . The Profile House stands o the highest point of any house in those mountains except the

is be o n e Summit House , and it said to of the 1 32 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

- Th best kept hotels in the United States . e Profile ma n (formerly called the old of the mountains) is th e a wonderful semblance of human face , formed l n ff o . by the edges the upper cli s of Mt Canaan . It is the most remarkable phenomenon of the kind

in the world . It is formed of three disconnected of f ledges granite in di ferent vertical lines , their aggregate height being from thirty - six to forty feet and their height above the lake one thousand two hundred feet . One rock forms the forehead , th e e another nos and upper lip , and a third the

massive chin . Profile Lake is a pretty sheet of

. w a s water , and lies directly under the Profile It h ’ formerly called t e Old Man s Washbowl . There of a h is another lake north the hotel , c lled Ec o

Lake . There is a small cannon th ere , which will

o ff on t a n d th e be fired the payment of fif y cents , h n echoes are heard in t e adjacent mountai s . fi t o From the Pro le House Woodstock , a dis ma tance of ten iles , is made by st ge through the w a u notch . About half y thro gh is the Flume

House , at which place I stopped over a short time

fl u me a n d . in order to visit the pool The fl u me

- o f is about three fourths a mile from th e hotel , a and is reached by a good carri ge road , which

P e mi e w a sse t n d s crosses the g River a t e ps near ’ the flume . .The flume is a fissure in Mt . Flume s u side , and through this r ns a rapid little brook . w h It is about seven hundred feet long , it walls

sixty to seventy feet high , perpendicular and

1 34 A LIFE AN D TR VELS .

- of two hundred and thirty seven islands , several of which are inhabited . They vary in size from

fi ve d hun red acres to less than ten acres . Accord ing to my idea there is nothing in Europe of the kind that can surpass the beauty of this lake and mountain scenery a s viewed from a trip across the

lake . Winnepesaukee is an Indian name , and it

i s th said ere are no fish in the lake , for the reason that they all break their necks trying to pronounce f the name o the lake . M st e i n y next pp g place was at Concord , the

capital of New Hampshire . It is a very pretty

city and quite a large railroad center . This is the place in which I spent my first fi ve yea rs in rail n w roadi g . From here I ent to Nashua and thence

to New Bedford , Massachusetts , where I spent a short time and then started for another trip to

N e w Hampshire . C H A P T E R V I I .

H A TRI P TO T E NORTHERN PART O F N EW HAM PSHIRE .

m1 4 88 URING the sum er of , after my trip n a N e w d to the White Mou t ins , I left Be ford t o th e of for a Visit home my childhood , a Warren , Situ ted in the northern part of New h Hampshire . This place a s become quite promi n o n ent in the last few years as a summer resort , account of its beautiful mountain scenery and n trout brooks , of which th ere are more tha one hundred . There are several very pretty cascades , the most picturesque being Hurricane Brook ,

h th e M whic falls from side of ount Car, southeast o f a the vill ge . Here , also , are found the Wate

nomee Falls and Middle Cascades , where the water

- descends over high , step like ledges for two hun ’ o f dred feet or more . Baker s River rises north

M sil a u k . oo e Warren , east of Mt , and flows into P i e mu a s . se t m the q , near the town of Ply outh Its (1 35) 1 36 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF present n ame was given in honor of Captain a of B ker , a soldier the Indian wars . There ' are several high mountains in Warren a n d on e vicinity , but the only that I climbed to . t o of t o i s Moosil au k the p and intend describe the e . It is the highest elevation in New Hampshire west of

Lafayette , and is four thousand eight hundred and eleven feet above the level of the s e a . It is one of the best Sight points in the State , giving a grand view of the Franconia and White Mountains , and

m. overlooking the rich Connecticut Valley for iles The mountain is composed of a high and pointed south peak and a broad plateau on the north , j oined by a narrow ridge and flanked by wooded foothills . The plateau is covered with loose stones t l and has but li tle s e pe . The Prospect House i . ms stands on the south side The ountain sep a ra te d from the Bl u e Ridge by the gorge in w hieh e rises the Baker River , and from Mount Cl ugh on the northwest by a lmow and traversable pass . On a the e st side of the ountain is a deep gorge , or ravine , in whose upper part the Seven Cascades on e a re located . This ravine is of the wildest a n d to places in the State , is difficult traverse on account of its dense forest . Besides the Prospect House there is a summer boarding ho u se at the r fe e t of the mountain , five or six mil es f om War a ren . The houses are well m naged , and the charges are moderate . The distance to the t Op o f the mountain is about

1 38 LIFE AND TRAVELS .

of iar scenes my happy childhood days , with n a sad heart I bade a lo g , and , perhaps , a final adieu to my old home and relatives there . I feel truly th a nkful t o the kind Providence who h a s been with and watched over me during all the

u r h long years of o separation . My best wis es will ol d ever be with my friends and relatives , even though I may never see them aga in . to From Warren I went Nashua , New Hamp i shire , where I vis ted other relatives for a few re days , and then went to New Bedford and i mained a Short time , after wh ch I took a short n trip to Ca ada . V I I I C H A P T E R .

P TO A N D TH A TRI CANADA E LAKES .

E A V I N G New Bedford , Massachusetts ,

th e l o f u about ast Aug st , I passed through n u nc Bosto , Concord , and White River J n tion to Burli gton , Vermont . This is a fine city of h about ten t ousand inhabitants . It lies on a high on is bluff the shore of Lake Champlain , and one of the oldest towns in New England . The State

University is located there . From Burlington I went across the lake to n Plattsburg , New York , an d visited the oted bat d tle fiel of Plattsburg . From here I went to

Ogdensburg , thence down the St . Lawrence River to Montreal . On the way w e passed through rapids where the water runs at the rate of fifteen mu or twenty miles per hou r , which ade it q ite mo exciting for st everyone O I I board the steamer .

The passage on the Long Sault rapids is thrilling .

An Indian pilot came on board to pilot us through . (1 39) 1 40 LIFE AND TRAVELS O F

The ra pids are n ine miles long and are divided by an island in the center . We made the distance m n a in thirty inutes without steam . As vessels c not ascend the rapids , canals have been cut in the land and supplied with locks wherever the rapids

I I occur . I the descent o f the Lachine rapids we were wrought to a higher degree of excitement t h than while descending e Long Sault . It is an intense sensation . We seem to be hurrying onto a rock , and are within an ace of total destruction when the vessel yields her h elm and sweeps into o n another channel , and then until we reach calm water . Montreal is a pretty place and resembles very m uch some of our American cities . It has fine buildings and parks . Mt . Royal Park is situated n o a high hill back o f the city . A winding road t O o f w th e way leads to the p it , hich overlooks

. mn city and country for miles around A o g the noted sights to be seen in Montreal is the Victoria

. t w o I n bridge It is nearly miles length , and is supported by twenty - fou r piers and two abutments Th o f solid masonry . e tub e through which the railway track is laid is t w enty - two feet high and sixteen feet wide , and cost The Cathedral of Notre Dame is a fine and ma o f assive structure , c pable holding ten thousand people . It is the finest church on the continent , and has a front on the square o f o n e hundred and fifty feet . It comprises seven chapels and h as nine aisles . It six towers , of which the two

1 42 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF house in which he w a s laid ou t still stands and is o n e of t the objects of interest shown o visitors . There are a great many things to be seen in w Quebec and vicinity , that ill interest a stranger ,

’ e among which are Wolfe s monument , n the Plains ’ of Abraham , the Governor s garden , the Citadel , t h e Th . e Terrace , and the Falls of Montgomery falls are two hundred and seventy feet high .

s e t o r They are deep in a small bay , chasm , and

- fi ve descend in a sheet seventy feet wide , broken midway by an immense rock hidden beneath the foam . They and their surro u ndings form a bean tiful pmicture . Fro Quebec I went to Sherbrook and then to e W ort N p , Vermont , the famous summer resort, situated on Lake Memphremagog . This lake is from one to two miles in width and thirty miles l n t w o - of o g . About thirds it is in Canada and the rest in Vermont . An excursion down the o n Mo unta i n Maid lake one of their fine steamers , ’ k or La d o the La e . y f , is a most delightful experience Memphremagog is an Indian word and signifies lake of abundanmce . The scenery about this lake very much rese bles that of Loch Lomond , the queen of the Scottish lakes . There are upwards l a of twenty islands in this lake , the rgest being one h undred miles in extent and known as Prov ’

h . ince Island . T e Owl s Head Mt House is a m o f beautiful su mer resort, situated at the base w ’ O l s Head Mountain , twelve miles from Newport M JA ES BATCHELDER . 1 43

o f and eighteen miles from Magog , at the outlet i s the lake . The summit of the mountain three h f thousand feet above t e level o the se a . From its rugged top a most charming panorama is spread out before the eye . t o From here I went Wells River, thence to o f Concord , New Hampshire , the capital my na T is tive State . his a beautiful city of about four teen thousand inhabitants . It supports eleven

tw o . churches , daily papers . and seven banks The famous Concord wagons and coaches are made th t o u ere , giving employment two h ndred and

fifty men . There are , also , large granite quarries , which give employment to about five hundred and ten men . They turn out nearly w o rth of stone annually . The State House is a fi n n do m e e granite buildi g surmounted by a , from which a grand View of the surrounding country can be obtained . n t o . I ext went Nashua , in the same State This h a s n place about ten thousand i habitants , and is a large manufacturing city in cotton goods , iron works , locomotives , locks , and many other articles . i s m Its water power derived fro the Nashua River . 1 823 o n The city was founded in a sandy plain .

A branch railroad runs to the villages of Amherst ,

Mt . Vernon , and Milton , those places being m uch frequented by summer tourists . u From Nash a I went to New Bedford , Massa

h s c t . uset , thus completing this interesting trip 1 44 LIFE AND TRAVELS .

After remaining there for a short time , I returned to California . New Bedford is a fine city of about a n d forty thousand inhabitants , is one of the oldest towns in New Engl a nd . It dates back a l of l m most to the time the landing of the Pi gri Fath w a s r n m. e s o Ply outh Rock It at one time the largest whali n g port in the world . That industry h a s n e w drifted to the P a cific Coast t o a great ’ N e w Be dfo rd s extent . capital is largely invested u in manufactures . D ring the summmer I visited there I took in several of the su mer resorts , ’ n such as Newport, Say Head , Martha s Vi eyard ,

and N on se tt Bay . I also visited old Plymouth Rock , where our forefathers landed upwards of

two hundred years ago .

1 46 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

1 8 a large tobacco manufacturin g pl a ce a n d keeps abo u t on e hundred and thirty factories busily en

. the gaged From Danville I went to Atlanta , capital of Georgia . This place was burned dur ing the war by the force under General Sherman . It w a s the starting place fo r his famous march to h a s the se a . The city been rebuilt in a splendid style , and is the loveliest business place in the

. Mon t om whole South From this place I went to g ery , Alabama . This is the handsomest city in the

South , and was the capital of the Confederate

States before Richmond became the capital . After leaving there I went to Mobile . Business w a s at b a n d a standstill there , and the uildings were old w as dingy . It a brisk business place before the

war .

I next went to New Orleans . There I Visited n ot e all the places of , including the Exposition

buildings , which are the largest of th e kind in

- . m the world The ain building covers thirty three

acres . From there I j ourneyed to Morgan City by

rail , thence by steamer to Vera Cruz , Mexico . I mw a stopped on y y three hours at Galveston , z Texas . At Vera Cru we encountered a heavy th e l u gale from north , which came very near y p setting o u r small boat as we were being trans th ferred from the steamer to e shore . We man w aged to get through all right , ith the exception of getting our clothes and baggage well soaked with salt water from t h e spray that beat into the E 1 JAM S BATCHELDER . 47

boat at every splash of the waves . Vera Cruz is ol d w a s t h e a very city , and principal place for lan ding the United States troops during the war w a s in Mexico . The city taken by Generals Scott and Taylor , the former with a naval force in front of the city , and the latter with a force of infantry

on land back of the city . Both forces kept u p a continuous fire until the Opposite side w a s com pe l l e d to surrender . tw o From there I went to the City of Mexico ,

- hundred and sixty three miles by rail . This road h passes through the finest part of t e republic . bu t t h e The land is rich and fertile , people are

too lazy and indolent to cultivate it properly . w f There are , ho ever , some fine cof ee fields , an d

tropical fruits grow there in abundance . As a

rule , the common working class have no idea of economy o r of providing for the future ; the lives of most of them seem to be occupied in obtaining food o r amusement fo r the passing hour without h either ope or thought for the future . Their pre

u vailing vices are gambling , fighting , and dr nken

ness .

A species of cactus , or century plant , grows

there , from which the Mexicans derive food , drink ,

and raiment . This plant grows wild in the moun

tains , and springs up everywhere in patches lik e

weeds . The fiber of the leaf beaten out and spun a m kes a beautiful thread called pita , which , when

woven into a fabric , is like linen . The rope made 1 48 LI FE AND TRAVELS O F

from it is called manilla hemp , and is the strong

! e st in usme . It is cut into coarse straws to make the broo s and whitewash brushes used in that country , and is also a good substitute for bristles for scrub brushes . It even su pplies the place of combs among the common people . But the chief value of this plant is thme intoxicating drink , pulque , which is made fro it and of which the

Mexicans are very fond . The effects of this bev n erage are felt soon after drinki g , making those who drink it wil d an d furious . They oftentimes n fight brutally while under its influe ce , slashing mh t s n ac e e each oth er with their , lo g kni ves , which

'

. ce mbin e d t t e n as a d they all carry The , smell , color of the liquid suggests spoiled buttermilk to the Americans , but, strange to say , the natives think it on e of the most delicious drinks in the i s w orld . It said to be healthful and an excellent aid to digestion . In coming from Vera Cruz t o the City of h Mexico I passed t rough Jalapa , where this plant grows t o pemrfection . From the Pl a ins of Apam , about sixty iles from Mexico , two special su pulque trains are run into the city each day , p plying th e market with the same regularity a s do the milk trains which s u pply the Eastern cities . “ A n old Indian tradition savs , Paradise is Mexico ! in general , but the Garden of Eden is Jalapa . On o u r way from Vera Cruz to Mexico w e passed through the city of Orizaba , and from that

1 50 LIFE AND TRAV ELS OF

u - pop lation of about four hundred thou sand . It o n is built a dead level plain , and the streets cross oth e r each at right angles . Looking down any street in any direction y o u can observe its end

Opening into the country . The great cathedral stands on the north side

h is of the Plaza de Armas , where Cortez and a n rmy once entered the city , and where Ge eral Scott massed his army after the surrender of the city in 1 847 The plaza is eight hundred and ten an d si x a feet long hundred feet wide . The c the dral occupies five hundred feet in length and four h undred and twenty feet in breadth of a n this pl za . The ce ter of the plaza has been planted with trees a n d laid o u t with walks inter

h r r h spersed with flowers and s u bbe v . In t e midst of it all stands a platform surrounded by an iron re railing , where military bands play at evening treats . The cathedral is the largest in North

America and is a grand building . It was begun a 1 573 w a s 1 667 in the ye r , and completed in , being nearly one hundred years in process of erec

tion . It cost a little less than It is in the form of a cross four hundred and twenty feet u long , two hundred feet wide , and one h ndred and

- seventy three feet high at the dome , with two

massive towers two hundred feet high . It is richly ornamented ; t he high altar is a most

of . a imposing mass gilding It has five n ves , six 1 51 JAMES BATCH ELDER .

r . su r alta s , and fourteen chapels The decorations pass any American cathedral I have ever seen . u a n d The great men of Mexico are b ried there , among them are th e remains of the Emperor is Iturbide . The cathedral always open , and throngs of people a re going in and out from early

o n e morn till late at night . To ascend the tower , has to go up winding stone steps , and when at the top is rewarded with a fine view o f the city and surrounding country . w e se e Looking southward , could the roads , an d avenues , fields over which General Scott hi fought s w a v to the capital from St . Augustine h t e . during Mexican War Most of th e houses in . Mexico seem to have been built after the same a n plan . Each dwelling surrounds open court , a around which are b lconies and corridors , with

flowers and vines trailing up and down them , forming a luxuriant network ; many of the courts have fountains playing in their centers . The outside doors of the houses alon g the streets a re a l l

made of heavy iron , and when shut and bolted n at ight , the inmates are as safe from marauders as they would be if they were within the pri s o n

w alls . Mexico can boast of several beautiful drives

and parks . The Alameda and the Pasca de

o f Bucareli , two the finest , extend to the Greta de

11 Belen . Seeing the people of both sexes out 0 these promenades reminded me very much o f the 1 52 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

n a Champs Elysees and Bois de Boulog e , in P ris , o r d Lon don f Hy e Park , in , the dif erence being in number , not in style , as they all seemed to be in

a . n full d ress par de The Plaza de Toras , co tain ing the arena for fights with wild beasts and the Mu t a dore s w a s Spanish , in that neighborhood , bu t n that cruel sport is not in practice e w . The i b u l l fi h ts old Span sh sport of g , however , is still a kept up , although it is not llowed inside the city h h . a d t e or th e misfo r limits I pleasure , . rather , bu l l fi ht tune , to witness a g while there , and con fess it to be one of the most cruel and disgusting sights I ever wi tnessed . The amphitheater is capable of holding ten

h a t ous nd people , and it was filled to its utmost o v capacity with every class of people , from the g

f h a n - ern e r o the State to t e dirty d half clad pee n . Most all the natives of the m a le se x ca rry a knife h or pistol in a belt whic is worn for that purpose . l ht mth The bu l fig s are carried on so ething like e circus in the United States . The fighters are men

a n d fo r selected educated that purpose , and give performances t h e year round . The amphitheater is circular in form with the center open to the

I s I n sky . The arena the center , and is about one

. m h undred feet in diameter It has a s ooth gravel

floor , and is surrounded by two strong fences about six feet. apart and eight feet high . The second fence is used as a safeguard for the audi ence , in case the bull Should jump over or break

1 54 LIFE AND TRAVELS o r

i s 0 11 if the blow well dealt, the animal drops dead the spot . The fi rst thing at the commencement of bu ll fi ht e rs so m e is the grand entering the g , o r on ten twelve in number , some horseback and

on fe e t a ll n some , dressed in glari g , gaudy colors , marching t o the lively air played by t h e brass of m band , reminding me much the co mencement of a circus performance . When all are ready for the fight , the Capitan throws Open the door and h is n flaunts capa before the entra ce , which causes th e savage bea st to rush thro u gh to avenge the ma n insult ; as he passes , a perched at the door h is i n cre a s thrusts two banderillas into back , thus ing his rage and causing him to rush headlong firs t at o n e and then at another with his sharp h e horns . The feelings of t people are wrought up to th e highest pitch o f excitement as one after ’ the other is run down . Just as the bull s head lowers for the terrible toss , the banderillas are on e his thrust on either side of neck , and the o f man hastens to a place safety , while the poor bull bucks and bellows fu riou sl v with rage and pain . Men are often killed du rI n g these fights and I w a s told that when such a thing happens the body of the victim is dragged ou t of the n a n d is are a , the fight continued without further interruption . l a za de re s After the fight is over , the exhibit l f their skill with the l asso . A ot o wild horses are driven to the arena , and while being pursued D JAMES BA TCHEL ER. the loop is thrown around th e legs of one of them ; — the well t ra I n e d h o rse plants his feet firmly t o re ce i v e a s th e the shock, the other , jerked by rope , loses his balance and is thrown to the ground . The performance is kept up till some ten o r twelve horses a re th rown and conquered . Sunday afternoons are the days for these barbarous ex hibiti on s n th e , that bei g the gala day in City of

Mexico . D u ring my stay I visited the famous Catholic th e Church at Guadaloupe . It is most richly ornamented church in the world . The altars , a n d t w o railings , fences connecting the altars are a ll covered with soli d sil ver a s thick as a case mf o knife blade , which gives the the appearance

d . being made of soli silver Th e domes , ceilings , and ornaments are all gilded with gold leaf. It

a n d w a s is a very ancient structure , built during t h e reign of Montezuma , before Cortez entered

M 1 5 1 9 . the City of exico , in to From Mexico I went El Paso , in Texas , and n th en came on to Oakla d , thus completing my journey after an absence of eight months , during which time I visited a l l the principal cities in

- k twenty eight States and three Territories , ta ing in , also , Canada and Mexico . X C H A P T E R .

R I N SHO T TRIPS CALIFORNIA .

1 885 URING the year my trips were Short , extending o n ly o v e r a small scope of coun

t r . y I visited by stage and carriage several small towns and farming districts in the valleys, where I sa w some of the most beautiful fruit o r d char s and vineyards in the State . A part of the season I spent in San Jose . This place is called t h e the Garden City , and well does it deserve pleas

o ne of th e ant appellation , for it is most delightful towns on the Pacific Coast . San Jose approaches a m nearer in appe rance to so e of the old shady New l Eng and towns than any other city in California . The s treets stretch between lo n g lines of beautiful shade trees , and the public parks and private gar

- dens resemble Semi tropical groves . During my stay in this city of garde n s I took M f n . a trip to the Summit o t . Hamilto This is h n the site of the Lick Observatory , w ich is bei g built with the donated fo r that purpose (1 56)

1 58 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

. t o Golden Gate , while Mt Diablo lies the east and north , forty miles distant . I know of no point on the Pacific Coast that affords as extensive an ou t s n Th look over o stra ge a country . e whole sug

’ ms r t o ms a e gests to the ind some vast , y , whose a a n d surf ce is broken into waves billows . The land for the site of the observatory com u prises one tho sand three hundred and fifty acres , 1 and was granted by Congress in 87 6 . The crest ff of the mountain is divided into five di erent peaks . The one occupied by the observatory h a s been cut down some thirty feet to level it fo r the build i n h i h l r h n s w c a a dso me . e g , are g , , and strong Now all is completed except the dome for the large equatorial . All of the instruments and most of the minor apparatus are suitably mounted and in place . t o Leaving San Jose I went Santa Rosa , where I spent some time visiti n g all the points of inter i est n Sonoma County . Santa Rosa is the county is seat of this county . It a beautiful city and is situated near the foothills o n the east end of t he

fi ft - fi ve Santa Rosa Valley , which is y miles long

m. and ten iles wide at this point It lies near a large grape and fruit district , and a rich farming

. w a s n country While I stayi g here , I met a man w h o ca me to California on th e same steamer with

1 858 . v me in We had ne er met since that time , until we met by chance in Santa Rosa . He is th e owner of a large winery in that place , and makes JAMES BATCHELDER . 1 59

about three hundred thousand gallons of wine an n H u a y . f I also took a trip to the summit o Mt . Diablo . ’ It is easily reached by a few hours rail and e a r riage ride from San Fran cisco . From this sum mit ca n be seen vie w s unequaled for exten t of f o t Vision and bea u ty o scenery . Spreading u be l o w u are rivers , mo ntains , valleys , farms , towns , cities , railroads , plains , and forests , forming a pan orama o f grandeur seldom to be seen . After spending the year 1 885 in the above men ti on e d t places , ogether with San Francisco , Oak 1 886 land , and Sacramento , I then , in , took a trip t o the Yellowstone National Park . E X I C H A P T R .

T Y K TRIP O ELLOW STONE NATIONAL PAR .

OW A RDS 1 886 the last of April , , I left San a Fr ncisco for Oakland , where , at the mele ,

we took the cars for Port Costa , passing along the shore of ou r bea utiful ba y through Oak land , Berkeley , and San Pablo . We had a fine view of the fortifications on Alcatraz Island an d

Black Point , also of the hills of Saucelito and the

Golden Gate . At Port Costa the train was transferred to Be 1 1 n c a , on the opposite side of Carquinez Strait, Sola n o it s by the steamer , the largest of kind in

- fi the world . It is four hundred and twenty ve feet long , and has four tracks running the entire f . mo len gth It can accom odate a train an engine and twenty cars at one trip . At Benicia we were a gain transferred to the SOO I I main track , and found ourselves whirling through the large and beautiful valley of the (1 60)

1 6 2 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

After a ride of n early two hundred and fifty

miles through this beautiful valley , I left the cars , n d S and , getti g aboar a tagecoach , I went to Shasta , of the county seat Shasta County , where I made

my first st e p . This town is three mil es from the railroad , and is prettily situated in the foothills of the mountains surrounding the Sacramento Val ley . It is as attractive a town as can be found in of any mou ntains , and , in a sanitary point View , s it can be excelled by none . This w a a lovely place during the early mining days of California .

The placer mines around here were very rich . I heard an old miner say that h e made as high as

$1 00 per day for months at a time with a rocker . n e w They are all worked out , none but China me n being able to make a living , and a very poor n one at that . In traveling through the ca ons one mof m day I ca e upon a gang the who were work ing with a rocker . I asked them if they found it h m ric . They said they ade only two bits a day for four men . Wherever there have been found rich placer mining and ore of great valu e, there is always a fountain head in the Vicinity , which is prospected for quartz ledges and ore veins . Going into the hills in almost any direction one meets a prospector at nearly every turn , laden

w . ith pick , pan , and Shovel The recent discovery o f rich ledges and bodies of gold and Silver bear n f mon . ing o re has a sti ulati g ef ect the prospector After he finds a ledge he selects fragments from JAMES BATCHELDER . 1 63

u various parts of the rock , and , after p lveri zing it in a hand mortar , he washes the result in a saucer

con sid or horn ; if no free gold is obtained , it is n ered worthless and is aba doned , only to be taken w h o by someone else , will sink a little deeper , test mr o re o e the a little thoroughly , and then in tim e t o in relinquish the claim , be followed by others definitely is t o The life of a prospector a hard one , and follow it a man must have patience and perse n ve ra ce and endure many hardships . A good quartz prospector should be also an assayer . He should kno w in what formations of earth or rock ore to expect , and then be able to test it by fire and acid assays . There are several quartz mills running in this co u ntry with very satisfactory re su l t s , and the chances are many more will be added to the number in the next five years . I paid a visit to a quartz mine located near Shasta , where a rich pocket had been struck a short time

a s t e n before , which paid as high to the , but that was soon worked out . n Leavi g Shasta I went by rail t o Slate Creek . This road is built along the side of the upper Sac ramento River above high - water mark and winds u aro nd between high and steep ridges , which grow narrower until only a channel is left for the w h a s river , hich a very rapid current of deep blue

water . It has worn its channel low and to a

nearly uniform grade , where it foams , dances , and 1 64 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

i h sparkles over t s rocky bed . T e railroad follows its crooked course until we reach Slate Creek , v some five mimles abo e Delta , where we take the stage , which akes daily trips between here and i Ashland , Oregon , the southern term nus of the

Oregon Railroad . The stages are good , and are

e I s driven by gentlemanly drivers , but the r ad rough and mountainous , and as the trip to Sissons occupies the whole night , it is very tiresome , even if made without an accident . . i Arr ving at Sissons I broke my j ourney . This

place is situated in Strawberry Valley , the first o f opening into a series small , elevated valleys which stretch about the base of Mt . Shasta . This

is b valley is small and bounded on the west y Mt . h n d t orisa . Scott , five feet above the valley At the o f th e a northern limit v lley is Black Butte , a vol o of cani cone in the Shape a sugar loaf, three o r six thousand feet above the plains, over thou T sand feet above the se a . o the east rises Mt . u Shasta in all its grandeur , fourteen thousand fo r

- hundred and forty four feet above the sea level . The valley is only three thousan d fi ve h u ndred

- n and sixty seven feet , thus maki g Mt . Shasta ten thousan d eight hundred and se venty - seven feet

above the plain . It is isolated from every other

mountain , which gives it the finest exposure of all the lofty peaks in California ; there are few mountains in the world wh ich stand so apart and i n i are seen t o such great advantage . It s a co sp cu

1 66 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF

e ris , flowing in different directions . These rivers are fed by thirty - three small lakes in these moun tains . Looking south o u r View extends far down the e Sacramento Valley , with Lassen Butt at our left , and still farther to the left a distant View of the n Sierra Nevada Ra ge is had . To the east the beautiful valley of the McCl o u d River is spread t o of . out before the eye , and the left this Mt

Shasta appears in all its splendor . The trip w a s w e a hard one , but felt well paid for the hard ships we had to endure by t h e grandeur of the scenery . There are other very interesting trips t m which can be aken from Sissons without uch a n d f hardship with slight expense . One o these

a ra n Th S c me t . is a trip to the o Falls e trip can be made by carriage from the hotel for about si x

a miles ; a trail is then t ken for a half a mile , cross ing the Sacramento River on l e gs which h a d fallen i across it . The st ream s followed for a short dis on tance , when the falls appear the Opposite side f u of the river . The falls are composed o n mer ous bodies of water pouring into the river from a high bluff amid fern and moss - covered ledges of rock . The View from our position on the ledge , together with the re a rin g and crackling of the ru shing w ater a s it came pouring over in its o n

se a . ward course to the , was grand in the extreme Another tri p of great interest can be made t o McCl ou d a the River , and still nother to the top 1 JAMES BATCHELDER . 67

. . m of Mt Shasta The latter is a hard trip ; so e a n d w have started failed to reach the summit , hile

m. others ake it with out much trouble n a s I was loth to leave Sisso s , but time pressed m e I could not prolong my stay . I t hink it is the i n h su m best place the State in w ich to spend th e x mer vacation . Parties can be furnished with e e r i e n ce d a p guides , carriages , saddle horses , c mp ing outfits , and , in fact , everything necessary for the comfort or pleasure o f the tourist by the n . m. genial host , Mr Sisso , at very oderate charges The mountain scenery about here is rom a ntic ; is th e m the water pu re and cold , and cli ate is de

- a lightful , with cool breezes from the snow c pped

. h a . bu t a t e t a pe k of Mt Shasta Last not le st , ble is supplied with the best of everything that th e

e season a ffords . It is j ust the place to enjoy a s a son and build the system a n ew .

w e a a Leaving here took the stage for Yrek , p ss ing through almost th e en tire len gth of Sis kiy o u is n n f County . This the extreme norther cou ty o h Ca liforn ia and is very mounta inous . T ere a re two gra nd ranges o f mountains extending n early the entire length of the State o n the eastern a n d n a western borders . At the orthern p rt of t w o n n this county these ra ges are co tracted , form ing some of the m ost rugged a n d gigantic moun i ta n peaks to be seen anywhere in the world , th e crests of which t ow e r a s high as the lofty peaks i . . s v of the Alps Mt Shasta , whose summ it co ered 1 68 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

i s with perpetual snow , within about ten hundred

- . Bl n feet of the far famed Mt a e . These moun tains are covered as far up as the snow line with immense forests of fir and sugar pine . After a ride of thirty - fi ve miles we arrived at Siski ou Yreka , the county seat of y County , situ o f ated in the western part Shasta Valley , four a n d hundred thirty miles from San Francisco . i s The town surrounded by high hills , from the

o f w of top hich a splendid View is had valleys , hills , and mountains . Looking towards the north Siski o u n the y Range of mountai s is in plain View , while far beyond rises the snow - capped peak of hl i MLau n . . c Mt g , in Oregon To the east and south the View extends the entire len gth o f both a h Little and Big Shasta V lleys , w ich are dotted with hundreds of volcanic mounds of v a rious

. size , shapes , and forms , and in the background h mo f a t e rise aj estic peaks Sh sta , Scott , and Black

Mountains . Below lies the beautiful little town of Yreka , with its lovely gardens and shade trees making a picture the beauty of which is seldom surpassed . From here to Ashland our route is along the a n d Little Shasta Valley , crossing the Shasta

Klamath Rivers . Over the latter river we crossed o n a ferry large enough to accommodate the stage and six h orse s . The motive power is th e current o f the river , and th e boat is held against the stream by ropes running through a cable

1 70 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

n ot in the background , forming a picture soon

. 0 11 forgotten Descending the other side , the road winds around on short curves down steep grades shaded by beautiful trees until Rogu e Ri ve r Val ‘ d on w a ley is reache , through which we pass our y t o Ashland , Oregon . This is the southern termi n u s of l a n d the Ca ifornia Oregon Railroad . It is a beautiful town Situated at the southern end of u Rog e River Valley . It more closely resembles a New England town than any other place 0 11 the

Pacific Coast , on account of the rows of shade trees w hich line the streets and the beautiful streams of water runni n g through from the mountains above . The residences are neat , and the yards a n a n d are t stefully ador ed with flowers , shrubs ,

u r fruit trees . At this place o journey of one hun

- fi ve w a s dred and twenty miles by stage completed , for w e connected with the railroad at this p oint . Ashland is quite a resort for those in search o f

r i n health . The e g o about here is rich in soda

and sulphur springs both cold and warm . The medici n al properties of the water are highly

spoken of by those who have tested them . The soda - spring house is a most delightful place in a re mo t e V Siski o u alley , surrounded by the y and

Cascade Mountains , ten miles from Ashland .

While I was here , a party of United States engi

n e e rs u n de r . . , the command of Captain C C Dutton , started to explore and make a geological and topo graphical survey of the Crater Lake and Cascade 1 JAMES BATCHELDER . M ountains , which were set aside by the govern ment fomr a national p a rk . The lake is located in the sum it of the Cascade Mountains , in Southern

Oregon , about one hundred miles from Ashland .

six mi s u r It is by eight les in extent , and is rounded by cliffs from o n e to two thousand feet high . The scenery around it is s a id to be very

. Th e n o n e beautiful party took alo g three boats ,

f . large one for sounding , and two small skif s The large boat is very strong and is twenty - six feet

n fi ve - - lo g , has a foot eight inch beam , and is two feet deep amidships . It is iron bound and weighs nine hundred pounds . It is a model of beauty , and has been christened the Clcctw ood. Leavi n g Ashland our route is along and thro u gh is the Rogue River Valley , which often called the o n Italy of Oregon , account of its clear skies and sunny d a ys . It is the most productive fruit re gion in the State ; grapes , peaches , apricots , plums ,

o f pears , apples , and all kinds of northern fruits superior flavor grow here in abundance . This valley abou n ds in scenery o f th e most romantic

. mo u n 1 n s tif t a bca u u l character Lofty , lakes , splen

l a re did waterfal s , and enormous precipices to be seen in this lovely valley of Southern Oregon .

Leaving the valley , our route is over a spur of n the Cascade Ra ge , thence down into and through the Umpqua Valley to th e Ca l ipooia Range . This region abounds with wild an d beautiful scenery . The canons are so winding that in 1 72 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

u order to attain twelve miles of act al distance ,

- fi thirty ve miles of track had to be laid . On de w e scending this divide , found ourselves in the beautiful Willamette Val ley , the largest in the u State . It is abo t one hundred and fi fty miles in length , and varies in width from twenty to thirty miles . It lies on both sides of the Willamette

a River, and is rich in soil and under good cultiv tion .

a n d The farmhouses ,mas a rule , are good , reap ing and threshing achines were busy at work in l large fie ds of wheat on eith er han d . The towns o f along this valley are models beauty , withmbroad streets , handsomely shaded with sugar aples , neat residences , and substantial business blocks . At Albany I again broke my journey for a few days . This is a fine city and lies on the east bank o f the Willamette River , about eighty miles from

th e of . Portland . It is county seat Linn County There is not much t o be seen here t o interest a

so w e . traveler , will pass on to Portland On the Ho d w a y we had some fine Views o f Mt . o and of some of the more southern pea ks in the Cascade

Range . The citymof Portland lies O I I the west ban k of the Willa ette River , about twel ve miles south

of where that stream unites with the Columbia . The ground o n which th e city stands slopes u p ward from the water front to the base o f high

hill s . These hills have been partly built over

1 74 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF and the train st e ps for fifteen minutes to allow p assengers to ascend the bridge . There is a legend connected with this fall which runs some thing like this !

‘ a Once upon time , many years ago , th ere lived in a wigwam on the mountain a little Indian maiden , young , pure , and fair , whom the red m en a s a called Multnomah . She w wont to ro m beside a little streamlet running n ear her mountain

. s h e w a s home One morning as standing there ,

w h o casting pebbles at her shadow , a noble youth , w a s walking to and fro , suddenly appeared before o f her . It was a case love at Sight , but it seems t o love that rises accidentally is the first fall , for all their cherished hopes turned to weel and w oe in a ’ n lovers quarrel . They parted , as man y have do e

- l in later years , but , woman ike , she repented , went an d t o to her lover, pleaded forgiveness , begged be taken back to his affections . Her entreaties w so ere in vain , she sought a frightful precipice over which the water bounded , fading away far beneath in mist . She gazed for a moment , and then hurled herself headlong far into the depths below . They called the fall Multnomah i n honor of this poor unfortunate maiden . A sh ort distance beyond the fall we came to the cascades on the Columbia River , where the water rushes down swift rapids in foaming torrents . From this place o n to The Dalles th e scenery is superb , in my opinion surpassing any river 1 JAMES BATCHELDER . 75

scenery in the world . There was not much to be seen between The Dalles and Spokane Falls , at which place I stopped fo r a few days . It is a beautiful little city in the eastern part of Washing I t on n ton . is built a level plai overlooked by picturesque hills , and commands a View of the lofty mountain ranges in the distance . The city lies near the falls of th e Spokane

River . The streets are broad , and the place has quite a number of substantial business blocks . The river above the falls is divided into many channels by rocky islands . Standing on a bridge w v hich spans the stream , the iew which can be

s seen is almost a grand as that of Niagara . Look ing up the stream y o u can se e the water rushing through the various channels , down cascades , and

f - culminating in one great fall o sixty fi ve feet . e From here to Hel na , Montana , the route is along ’ the shores of Lake Pend d O re il l e for fifty - fi ve ’ mh o f iles , and t en along Clark s Fork th e Colum bia for a considerable distance , where the scenery is gra nd consisting of mountain peaks o f the d A l e n e o n e Coeur Range , towering above th e other until they reach the height of fi ve thou n s sa d three hundred feet above the e a . During ’ w e a one day s ride breakfasted in W shington , took dinner in Idaho , and had supper in Montana . Our meals were served in Pullman Palace din a ing c rs . a v a st e e d e When I rri ed at Helena , I ag in pp ver . 1 76 LIFE AND TRA VELS OF

is n This the capital of Monta a , and is called the “ ! Queen of the Mountains . It is Situated in what was called the Last Chance Gulch , a name . wh o 1 864 given to it by four miners , , in , weary

n on - and Sick at heart at their previous success , pitched their tents here as a last resort . It proved to be rich in gold mines , and it is said that in two ’ years time each was worth The city no w h a s n a population of twe ty thousand .

After leaving Helena. we followed along the

Gallatin River for about fifty miles , to where it f unites with the Madison and Jef erson Rivers , wh ich e mpty their waters into a common channel w e h t o form th e Missouri . When reac ed the sum w e fi ve mit , were thousand five hundred and sixty h three feet above the level of t e sea . From this point w e began t o descend again at mthe rate of one hundred and sixteen feet to the ile , till we arrived at Livingston , at which place we left the main line of the Northern P a cific and took the t o Yellowstone Park Branch Cinnabar, a distance

- of fifty one miles . Most of the route is along the Yellowstone River and through a beautiful valley called Par adise Valley . The scenery forms a perfect pano

- rama of grandeur , presenting ever varying views . The Sno w Mountains border the river on the south and east , their lofty pinnacles glistening with snow and presentin g views and atmospheric effects w hich are perfectly superb . These mountains rise

1 7 8 LIF E AND TRAVELS OF

u verdant valleys , beautif l woods , silver streamlets ,

m- n foa ing cascades , and mirror like lakes , u fold a succession of pictures which seem to try to o u t rival each other in beauty . The most noted geysers in the pa rk a re the

h t h e Giant and Giantess , Castle , Grotto , Bee ive ,

Splendid , Grand , Sawmill , and the group called min th e Lion , Lioness , and two Cubs , but the ost t e re st i n of g all is the one called Old Faithful , because o f the great regularity with which e ru p tions occur . And these occur every hour , begin ning with several splashes or spurts , which con ti n u e u for about fo r minutes , becoming more and more powerful , when they are followed by a rapid succession of j ets -which escape with a re a r and soon attain a height of one h undred to one hundred and fifty feet .

The water eruption is followed by steam , which

finally dies away and leaves the crater empty . The water eruption lasts from four to five min

s ix utes . The crater is an oblong opening two by i s 11 feet on the inside . It Situated 0 a mound of geyserite measuring at the base on e hundred and forty - fi ve by t w o hundred and fifteen feet and at fift —u the top twenty by y fo r feet , and rising eleven feet and eleven inches above the surrounding level . The mound is composed of layers of deposit in a succession of terraces which are full of shallow

in a s basins . The water these basins is as clear of crystal , and the edges the pools are exquisitely JAMES B A TCHELDER .

a beaded and fretted , showing delic te tints of rose , white , saffron , orange , brown , and gray . The north end o f th e crater has large globular masses

t h re a t is a of beaded , pearly deposit , and its of

r dark yellow o rusty color . This description of Old Faithful gives the main o f md points all the oth er geysers I have entione , with the exception th at some have more beau

. m tiful formations a round them So e are of a

n a o f spo gy formation , resembling a l rge piece

n t a - bor de rs h a v spo ge , while o hers have l ce ribbed , ing the appea ra nce of being crusted with pearls . The h o t springs all through the park are the most beautiful water pools I have ever seen . The be crystal clearness of the water cannot described , a n d must be seen t o be a ppreciated . While at the Upper Geyser Basin I w a s fo rt u nate en ough t o see three o f the most important gey

t h e ma n d sers in action at same ti e never have I seen a grander sight o f n ature s most wonderful

a n n powers . I c o t close without s aying a few words about the Yellowstone Falls and th e Grand n Ca on .

The Upper Falls , of which the heigh t is given

o n e h - as undred and sixty two feet , and the Lower t o Falls said be three h undred and fifty feet , com pose this wonderful work of Nature . The river ’ i s t w o h u n dre d between them feet in width , but it contracts t o a distance of o n e hundred feet at the point where it takes its final leap into the 1 80 LIF E AND TRA VELS OF

gorge below . Recovering from the plunge , th e

n it s a n river fi ds outlet through the c on , appearing in the distance like a streamer Of sati n ribbon

of n b e laid along the depths the Grand Ca on , w n n of i hind the i di g walls wh ch it is lost to View . n The Grand Ca on is a wonderful gorge , which displays a scene of enchantment surpassing every

to h expectation . It is from one thousand two t e n sand feet in depth ; but it is n ot the depth that

impresses the beholder most , it is the brilliant coloring o f th e wallms and towering rocks on each on e n da z side , which are ass of cha ging colors ,

zl in a n d w i s n g in their brightness , hen the sun Shi a ing , the whole gorge seems to be abl ze with red , a n d yellow , white , blue , green , orange , vermilion , n lighting up th e walls equal t o a y palace . I could compare it to nothi n g I h ad seen excepting n the sunsets on the Indian Ocean , which last o ly

while the sun is setting , and then fade away ,

while th is is as steadfast as the rocks themselves . At a high elevation which we reached in the

park , the three Tetons were plainly visible , thei r pointed peaks rising thirteen thousand eight hun

- dred and fi fty eight feet above the sea . These n peaks rise out of the beautiful Teto Basin , near the boundary lin e which separates Idaho from W V n n of oming . They exte d from the Grand Ca on Sn a ke River to the so u thern extremity of Yellow

stone Park . The center peak is sometimes called ’ h the Shark s Toot . The basin in which they

1 82 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF n ma h orth side extends five iles long t e beach to F o u l w e a th e r Cape , where the lighthouse is located . This is one o f the Sights o f th e place a n d is well t wor h seeing .

O n in il e s the south Sid e the dri ve is ten long ,

a r to place called Seal Rock . They a e both beau w tiful pleasure drives , ith fresh scenes to greet the a t a eye every tu rn . At Se l Rock there are some

t a a t o v ll pinn cles , from th e p of which you ha e a m agnificent View up and down th e coast for

- fi e ma . a a f twenty v iles each w y The place lso

r a a a s fo ds fine surf b thing , and is perfectly s fe , it a is not in the open ocean , but three hundred y rds

a a n d a. f inside the he ds , high blu f protects the bath h e rs from th e wind . La tely this place a s become

more widely known , and it is destined to become

a a popular resort . I kno w of no pl ce where a short time ca n be more pl e a s a n t l v spent by those n n in eed of recrea tio . 0 11 Ya u in a 3d I left there the steamer q , on the

I I I of September, at two P . M . crossing the bar

se a a we encountered a heavy , which l sted through t h e to the night , causing many of passengers con sign to the deep wha t they h a d eaten during the

u h a d day . Altho gh I managed to retain what I

r eaten , I had no desire for mo e when dinner was w a s an n ounced . This the first meal I refused to

of n m. p a rtake duri g y travels by water mw a s se a The next orning beautiful , and the

a s ) w as calm as a river , and continued so till we E JAM S BATCHELDER .

on 5 reached San Francisco , Septembmer , which completed my journey of nearly five onths , dur i ng which time I visited all the places o f note which I had not seen before in Northern Cali fo rn ia a n d , Oregon , Washington , Idaho , Montana , of “ I o mi n a part y g ; and happy am I to once more o f fo r tread the soil my adopted State , the more o f I travel abroad , and the more I see other States o u o w n in r country , the more I prize our Golden

State , which I am proud to call my home . All a other places I have visited have their attr ctions , for and do a time , but for a lifelong residence give of me Ca lifornia . Nor do I think there is a city its size in the United States where there is so much to i nterest a stranger as in San Francisco . The Golden Gate Park is not excelled by any of the kind I have seen in older or larger cities , while a trip to the Cliff House cannot fail to ex o r cite delight and admiration , an d a walk a drive along the shore of the Pacific on the beau tiful sandy beach fills one w ith new life and vigor . The Cliff House has severa l large porches w hich face the sea , and those who choose may pl easantly pass the time here watching the waves as they splash against the rocks , and in listening to the barking of the seals , whose roar can be heard above the music of the waves . Then a ramble ’ Su tro s h through garden , situated on the eights

overlooking the Cliff House , must be appreciated f by all lovers of the beauti ul . This garden is LIFE A N D TRAVELS .

fil l e d w ith beautiful flowers and shrubbery o f all o f d kinds from all parts the worl , besides groups of choice statuary so arranged as t o show to the bestma d vantage . A ong other sights of interes t in Sa nFrancisco W ’ are oodward s Gardens , the United States Mint , o n and the Presidio . It is a treat to ride some of our cable cars to the tops of the high hills of the

city , which are more numerous and much larger o f than the seven hills Rome , or the five mounds

upon which Jerusalem once stood . Our railway cable system is the best in the world , and from the tops o f any of the hills a magnificent vi ew of i ob the city , bay , and surrounding country is in t a e d . All these and many other attractions of the place cannot fail to make a sojourn of s evera l days o r more very interesting to anyone visiting

San Francisco .

1 86 LI F E AND T RAV ELS omr Then , too , the change from the s ooth waters of the bay to the swelling waves of the ocean , gave the ship a peculiar motion that w a s n o t very pleasant to some who were not accustomed to

. u ie tl v h sailing Such very q retired to t eir rooms , presumably for a sea son o f medita tion . I was n o t seasick in the least , and I did not expect to be , w a s y for this notmm first experience at sea , and every voyage I ake gives me more confidence in the power and capacity of a ship to triumph

over the conflicting elements . “ fh e n mn night ca e , the wi d went down ; the

w a s a se a evening w rm and pleasant , and the was

as smooth as a small lake in summer , merely

rippled . I staid o n deck until it w a s quite late . The passengers were singing in the social hall as ’ by in a parlor , until ten o clock ; when , one one ,

they disappeared , until I found myself the only on e occupant of the deck . It is then that feels a or lone , for there is nothing around , beneath

skv . above , but the silent and the sleeping ocean It is then that on e seems t o feel that he has ex

o f a n d t h e changed the security the shore , society o f th e most genial friends , for that of strangers

and the perils of the deep .

The next morning we were at Port Harford .

for This is the port San Luis Obispo , situated nine

miles inland , and connected with it by a railroad .

Some of the passengers left the ship here , while

t he - others from above named town came on board , CH L R 1 8 JAMES BAT E DE . 7

filling the places of those who had left us . After a delay of a few hours , exchanging freight and w s e a baggage , we ere again out at , under full headway . It was a beautiful day . The sun n shone bright and warm , and the time was spe t in walking about the deck , singing , reading , play ing cards , etc . Duri ng th e afternoon we passed Point Co n ce p

o f at tion , a long point land reaching far out

is o n e sea , upon which of the finest lighthouses

in the United States . It is two hundred and fifty h as feet above the water , and a revolving light , showing a White flash every half minute . It also h as a fog whistle , which is sounded in thick

weather . A fog bell , weighing three thousand o n e - s ix is u hundred and thirty pounds , sed , too ,

in bad weather .

Our next stopping place w a s Santa Barbara .

From there we went to San Pedro , arriving early the next morning . At this place passengers for Los Angeles leave the ship and go inland by rail about twenty miles . Leaving here about noon , h b e we went directly to San Diego , reaching t ere fore dark . The entrance to the harbor is roman tic ; the ch annel is narrow and crooked , forming a complete letter S .

This completed my journey by water , I having

reached the southern point of my trip . I returned u h to San Francisco ov erland . The passage was eventful and unattended by the usual squalls 1 88 LIFE A N D f rn x v n ns o r a n d l so r ga es , f equent on an ocean voyage at this o seas n of the year . We were never out of sight of n land duri g the trip , and the scenery was beauti

a n d ful , impressive , sometimes grand , which added

l a u “ h much to the interest and p e s re of t e voyage . San Diego is the county seat of San Diego

cou n t v o f County , the most southern California .

Me x1 a n Its southern limits border on c territory . The city is b eautifully situa t ed on the bay of San

a n d Diego , a fine sheet of water twenty miles long w two miles ide , almost landlocked , making one

a a n d of the most be utiful h arbors in the world , w the best on the Pacific Coast , ith the exception

Sa n a of Francisco , from Callas , in South Americ , to Alaska . About three miles inland from here is the ol d w a s t d i n 1 769 town of San Diego , which set le by

w h o a the Franciscan friars , est blished a m ission fi there . This was the rst one made in California , but in 1 771 ten missionaries arrived here from Mexico and established missions i n various pl aces

- n w o e . in Southern Calmifornima , t enty in all One of these is the fa ous ission San Gabriel , which is still in existence , and probably will be for years to come . The bells of this church were brought h mn a o . fro Spain early a century g T ey are fam o u s for the sweetness of their tones . I t was at San Diego that General Fremont n 1 841 la ded in , with orders to join Stockton near

Los Angeles , in order to capture that place from the Spanish army under General Castro .

1 90 LIF E AN D TRA V ELS OF and most skillful descriptions of views and land scapes insufficient , and could never form a dis tinct picture from them unless I had seen them myself before . b From here I went to Riverside y rail . The n is n m country alo g the route uninteresti g , ost of it being barren and rocky , but occasionally of there is a green spot with a small stream water, along the banks of which are clumps of the oak and willow . There are a few small towns along the t o route that lay claim future greatness . Then , w e h again , ave a little of the picturesq ue in pass i ng through Tmemec u la Canon . This is a rocky gorge several iles in length , with hills rising hundreds of feet on either side and drawing nearer together , until there is scarcely room for the train , and little streams of pure water that l ripple over the rocky bed . Farther on the hi ls recede and gradually lose their steepness , until t o w e n they are lost View , and are passi g th rough a wonderful little valley containin g o n e hundred r and eighty hot and cold mineral springs o f all kinds , whose curative qualities are said to be wonderful .

Elsinore Lake is in this valley . It is a beauti of ful sheet pure mountain water , seven miles in t length and three miles in wid h , around which o f are large and prosperous settlements orange , vine , and fruit growers of all kinds .

This lake is near the railroad , and is becoming BA D J A MES TCHEL ER. 1 91

a summer as well as a winter resort . It is only a

short distance from Riverside . Riverside IS a pretty little town located in the midst of orange an d lemon groves and vineyard that extend ten miles in length and from three to d o u t four in wi th , all laid with wide streets and

r avenues between o w s of shade trees . The most f beautiful o these is known as Magnolia Avenue . It is seven miles long and one hundred and thirty

two feet wide . On each side there is a fine wide ro w t sidewalk , shaded with a of palm trees in er

sprea d with the Japanese willow . Next t o these tw o a w a h are wide carri ge ys , between w ich is a

ro of fo r a w large pepper trees the entire dist nce . The land alo n g this avenue is planted w ith

a n d a vineyards , orange lemon groves , and orch rds

of almost every known fruit , having the appear

a ance of one vast orchard , dotted with m ny fine

residences of wealthy people . The water for irrigating this vast section is

brought from the Santa Ana River, by two large n ditches runni g the entire distance . Small ditches on e radiate from these in every direction , making o f the finest systems o f irrigation to be found in

the U nited States . The Riverside oranges are famous for their brightness of color and th e rich

ness of their flavor . I never have found oranges

that excel them in any part of the world . There are many varieties of ornamental trees along the u i n t stre ets and aven es his place , which add much 1 92 LIFE AND TRAVELS o r

. i n to its beauty But , my opinion , there is no other tree which grows that will equal the ora nge a s n N an or amental tree . o other shows such i rich green foliage , vary ng from a pale yellowish a green to rich dark shade , with glossy leaves , and at nearly all seasons of th e year it is laden with A n . d both blossom s and ripe fruit , certainly , no flowering or orn amental tree or shrub of any kind is s o handsome as an ora n ge tree whose bra nch es

. m are han ging with ripe fruit It is far ore attract

i ve a a t . than a m gnolia , pepper , or p lm ree

Last year I traveled in the North , through

a n f mount i s and gorges , with massive clif s rising

a n d thousands of feet , crowned with snow , the d a shing waters hissing among huge rocks in the

i s depths below , and think there nothing grander than to gaze over a rugged wilderness of rocks and upon wastes that never have been t rodden b v f the foot o man . There is another kind of scenery which I e u j oyed from a hill unknown to fame , and rising in perfect solitude from the pl a in b a ck of the little d town o f Riverside . It is a softer lan scape of

graceful hillsides , sloping to the green meadows n n and woodla ds , glorious with magnifice t foliage o f o r a southern clime , fertile fiel ds , thriving chards and vineyards meeting the glance in every

direction , all charming in the bright sunlight

under a brilliant sky . not so mu w After all , it is ch the locality hich

1 94 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

the valley . These springs have become very pop o f ular late , and the medicinal properties of the

water are said to be excellent . The town of San Bernardino w as first settled by

1 852. t th e Mormons , in Before tha time there

w a s only a stock ranch here . There is a story of told the finding of this place by the Mormons ,

which will bear repeating here . It seems that an o l d w h o trapper , had been all through this valley , ha d visited Arrowhead Springs , and could give a

full description of them , arrived at Salt Lake , where he met Brigham Young and described to n him this beautiful valley and its surroundi gs , h including t e Arrowhead and Hot Springs . Shortly after this Brigham announced to his w h h a d follo ers t at he had a Vision from heaven , showing him a beautiful country , and he repeated to them the story he had heard from the ol d trap per . of Soon after , a party of nearly one thousand his followers came here and settled , finding every thing the Same as Brigham had declared he had 1 56 r seen in his Vision . In 8 most of this party e turned to Salt La ke . Some remained and are still here and are in full faith with the Mormon

Ch u rch e x ce tin n , p g that part which sa ctions polyg n ot of t he amy , it being considered a part Mor

mon . religion by those remaining here Los From here I went by rail to Angeles , pass ing through the entire length of the San Gabriel JAMES BATCHELDER .

V . alley This is a new route , and has been opened i s to the public only a week . The entire valley

very attractive . In every portion are countless N e . w farms , with beautiful residences towns are n n o n e th e spri ging up alo g the road , and can trace li n es of you n g fruit trees in the newly planted o r chards and the rows o f cutti n gs in the vineyards .

Pasadena is the pride a n d crown of this valley . Its broad avenues are bordered with pepper trees and with hedges o f cypress and lim e . The val ley about here i s thickly dotted wi th beautiful homes of modest cottages , with lovely a gardens , half h idden by or nge and lemon groves and Vineyards . Delightful walks with arbors and summer houses of evergreen , climbing vines and v t o flowers of e ery variety , are be seen at every turn . The scenery along this valley is grand , the Sierra Madre Mountains standing boldly up in the background , while the foothills look so tempting for a stroll like one I used to take in th e

Granite State in my childhood days .

On arriving at Los Angeles by rail , one sees the poorest part of the city first ; for i n going from

h a s the station to the business portion , he to pass through the ol d Spanish settlement known as

Sonora . This is a dilapidated place , with its

u of fl at - sq ares low , roofed , adobe buildings , which for of have stood here a long period time , but are fast crumbling away , the inhabitants dying out or being pushed aside to give room for the more

O F THE 1 96 LIFE AND TRAVELS O F

A energetic and enterprising merican people , and the neat modern streets of a rapidly growing city . (Since the above was written the station has been moved . ) The city of Los Angeles is the natural center of a large commercial , agricultural , and industrial community . There are sections of Los Angeles County under a higher state of cultivation than can be found anywhere else in the United States . These localities are settled mostly by the wealthy

- - f and well to do classes o people . From Third

Street Hill , or any other hill that rises back of the of Los on e city Angeles , looks upon a scene that

of o r is truly picturesque , consisting vineyards ,

n o f ange and lemo groves , and orchards almost every known fruit . It is a collection of gardens s ix th e miles square , producing at all times of n year almost everything that grows under the su . o n e o u t If drives into the country , large fields o f of wh eat and barley , backed by the dark green

the vine , orange , and lemon , and other shrubbery ,

are to be seen everywhere , rankly growing with f the fruit in different stages o advancement . In

ma n of riding along one y hear the so g the laborer in the field , and see madame at the kitchen door or in the garden picking weeds from a mong the

flowers , while the house dog , too lazy to bark , lies

idly sleeping in the shade .

From here I went by rail to San Buenaventura .

“ This i s a Spanish n ame and signifies Saint of

1 98 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

Santa Barbara is the county seat of Santa Bar bara County . It is a beautiful city O f nearly five

h . mth t ousand inhabitants It rises gradually fro e O f sea , attaining an elevation three hundred feet

‘ in a distance of on e and a h al f miles . The mis sion here w a s founded December It is the only mission in California which has been a occupied constantly by the Fr nciscan friars , from its founding up to the present time . The old church was SO badly i nj ured by an earthquake 1 2 w a s t o i n 1 8 that it necessary take it down .

The present structure was built in 1 81 5 . It is in a splendid state of preservation . The walls con ' sist of large cubes of cut sandstone nearly six feet in thickness . They are strengthened by buttresses n o f a similar ature . It is the most substantial a n d n mission church in California , it contai s

m . any fine pictures by Spanish painters The of church and the dwellings the priests , which are connected with it , are all that now remain of the

O l d mission buildings . h From ere I continued my journey by stage . The route for several miles is along the Santa

Barbara Valley . As the stage passed along , gay houses , surrounded by beautiful gardens , rich Of with flowers and trees magnificent foliage , were to be seen on either Side . Leaving the valley we commenced the ascent Mo u n ta in s w in di n of the Santa Ynez , g around their e v side , making almost ery point of the compass , 1 9 JAMES BATCHELDER . 9

and steadily climbi n g higher a n d high er . Our turns were short and sometimes in ravines , at other times above the edge of a frightful precipice , whose crumbling walls threatened to give w a y b e S neath our weight . We oon commanded a View of innumerable mountain chai n s lying beneath A S u s . e m w reached the sum it , a grand pano

w a s ou t . rama spread before the eye Cities , towns , a n d se a n valleys , mountains , islands , lie sleepi g far beneath us in all their loveliness , while the

s lower hills rise in ma sive waves , clothed with oaks and manzanita . Huge granite bowlders lie as if tossed o n the o r hillsi des , piled up over level tracts as if placed there by the hand o f man . The atmosph ere is pure , soothing , and exhilarating . It is a deligh t

th e o n e to breath e it and fill lungs with it , as would drink from a pure spring . From h ere the road begins its rapid descent to the valley be n h l ow . Looki g down from the t op of t e stage d coach , the escent seems impossible , but we move on in long c u rves around the edge of the moun tain , turning , twisting , and winding under th e

o f oak branches the and sycamore , which are d draped with hanging moss and wil grapevines . l Final y we are down into the Santa Ynez Valley , o f a n d on which the ripened fiel ds wheat , barley , clover lie Spread in a light brown carpet on S either ide , while to the right extends the limpid u R n u bl e Santa Ynez iver , losi g itself in gracef l 200 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF curves be hind the wooded hills an d i n the dis tant fields and pastures terminating t h e View .

a ft e r a Towards nightfall I reached Los Alamos , ride o f sixty miles by stage over this interesti n g country . The next morning I resumed my journey by rail to San Luis Obispo . This is the county seat o f San Luis Obispo County . It is an interesting and pretty little town , situated at the end of a

u m. bea tiful valley surrounded by giant ountains

From here El Paso de Robles is thirty miles , i s which made by stage , and completes my stage ride . I connected at this point with the Southern

Pacific Railroad . h ot This place is famous for its mineral springs , delightful and picturesque surroundings . It lies t h e of in valley the Salinas River , on a plain gently Sloping toward the foothills of the Coast of Range , sh aded by groves giant oaks and cotton

Th e . wood . main Spring is situated in the center

The reservoir is eight feet square . The water is h ot and bubbles with gases from the bottom . It h a s a flow of more than four thousand gallons per hour . There are two plunge baths built of

on e a n d solid masonry , for ladies the other for gen

t l e me n . In the rear of these are the public and private bath rooms . The hotel is first class and is surrounded o n three sides by neat and comfort of able cottages . The table is one the best sup plied and appointed on the Pacific Coast .

202 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF

t o th e o f This visit land the vine , the olive , the n f orange , and pomegra ate , af orded me a great deal

mn . w mof pleasure and enjoy e t It ill always be re embered a s one Of the most enjoy able e xpe ri n f e ce s o my life . But whenever I visit any other o f part the State , I am always glad to return to h San Francisco , w ere the days are cool for work , and the nights are cool for sl eep . I t s breezes are purer , more refreshing , and more healthful than those in any other part O f th e State . About t w o weeks before sta rting on my trip to t o Southern California , I took a ride the summit of Mt . Tamalpais . This , although a Short excur ’ n e v e rth e sion , occupying only a day s time , was , a a l n less , pleas nt one , and we l worthy of otice among other and longer journeys . Mt . Tamal pais is a high peak in the Coast Range , bordering on the Bay o f San Francisco and forming the n orthern wal l of the Golden Gate . Its summit h a s been selected by the United States Govern ment as the initial point of th e coast survey for establishing longitude and latitude . I left San Francisco by the ferry Of th e Northern Pacific Railroad on on e of those matchless days which are the pride and boast of Ca lifornia . After a on e w e very pleasant ride of hour , reached San

h o f . Rafael . T is is the county seat Marin County It i s a pretty place n estled in a little nook in the foothills . Its surroundings are romantic , and at this season O f th e year the hil l sides are cloth e d 2 JAMES BATCHELDER . 08

r n in ve dant grass , daisies , tulips , pi es , and bloom

To . ing buckeyes . the west stands Mt Tamalpais like a sentinel , guarding the approach to the bay

u a n d thro gh the Golden Gate , keeping an eye over San Fran cisco a n d all the little towns within its reach . At San Rafael we procured a carriage for the ascent o f the mountain The route i s through t Ross Valley , which is do ted with fine residences n o f wealthy people . These houses would grace a y city street . Leavingmthe v a lley we commenced the ascent of the ountain , on the winding road , which presents a series of pretty and by far the most picturesque views of any to be found so near San Francisco . At every turn a new scene appears , rivaling in beauty the form er . As we still continued , the many changes appeared like

a mo r a a m S the hiftingms of a p , and as we neared the summit , a ore enchanting picture broke upon our vision . A beautiful little lake lay under the sunlight like a mantle of gold . All around this Sparkli n g gem of the mountain could be seen t h e the dark green Of oak , madrona , and manza

t u a s nita bowing down heir outspread bo ghs , if to i s . a t p the cooling waters Arriving the summit , two thousand eight hundred feet above the level

o f se a i s . the . the View grand and impressive

At our feet lay the bay Of San Francisco , dotted

o f . s u r with islands , and sails commerce The u rounding hills were soft und lations , between 204 LIFE AND TRAVELS . which lie the cities of Oakland and San Fran cisco . Beyond lies the Alameda Valley , sleeping in all its loveliness . To the east the View ex n of te ds far up the valley the Sacramento , with

Mt . Diablo standing out boldly three thousand

n - eight hundred and ni ety six feet , while th e View stretches until the distant horizon is bounded

- by the snow clad peaks of the Sierras . To the north the eye roams Over a series of valleys sepa rated by ranges Of mountains and hills extending O f Son oma a i1 d over the counties Marin , Napa , ,

Lake , with Mt . St . Helena towering four thousand

- se a three hundred and forty three feet above the , and whose summit is a conspicuous landmark

over a great scope Of country . To the west rolls

the almost boundless expanse o f the Pacific Ocean . The return down the mountain w a s much more w s agreeable than the ascent . The l a ndscape a u m n ever changi g , as we wound aro nd the any n f curves , with Skirti g clif s on one side and deep

on . ravines the other The scene was sublime , and the exp e rience w a s one to be remembered for a

lifetime . I have visited many places that are better

a n d known that occupied much more time , but I have seen no place where a day can be spent with more i n terest and pleasure than in a trip to the

summit of Mt . Tamalpais .

206 LIFE AND TRAVELS O F

ory forever . The group of passengers on deck kept their faces toward the shore , having in their mf O inds , no doubt , pictures friends and happy l m. homes that hereafter would be on y a emory Patiently w e plowed our way through the stub w e w e l l ou t born waters, and , towards night, were to se a . At first some o f the passen gers were sea sick and either kept their berths or walk ed about the deck looki n g as if they would rather sit down somewhere and only think th a n t o do anything else . Later on everybody came down into th e cabin for their regular meals , and the crisis had passed .

Our course was near the shore , but occasionally we lost sight of land . The coast along Lower n California is u interesting , low , barren , and deso late ; but after passing the Gulf of California, the fi scenery was picturesque and diversi ed , consisting Of ranges O f mountains extending into the i n i t e r or . As far as th e eye could reach , not a Single

- tract of flat or table land appeared anywhere . The entire coast of Mexico is a succession of mountains bordering on the Pacific . w Every evening , hen the sun went down , it looked like a great red ball dropping into the se a ; for here it appears to be divested of that excessive brightness which on land frequently dazzles and pains the eye of the beholder . The rising and n setting of the su at s e a are usually fine spectacles . Those on the Pacific generally surpass those of 0 JAMES BATCHELDER . 7

the Atlantic in grandeur and beauty , but the most gorgeous I have seen have been on the

Indian Ocean . w a s Our first landing place at Acapulco , about one thousand eight hundred miles southeast from

San Francisco . It has a beautiful and safe har on of bor, surrounded three sides by lofty ranges wooded mountains , and it is nearly landlocked . The town has a population of about three thou f O . V sand , chiefly mixed blood ery few people h Show any pure Spanish descent . Some of t em are quite good looking , polite , and civil .

w as 1 858 n o t I here in , and the little town has

' changed much during th e t hirty yea rs that have e r passed since I walked its streets . Thirty v a s Of o f struggling , active life , strenuous endeavor , crowned n o w with failure and again with tri h umph , of roug adventure , of voyaging by sea and by land ! I look back mand think O f the crowd of faces , men and wo en , that I have a no w le rned to know between then and , som e Of O f whom are dead , some whom are estranged , while

fo r others are still near my home , wishing my safe

! - l return . Thirty years one ha f of a human gen e ra t io n ! n We can scarcely realize its le gth , until

it s - once more we stand upon half forgotten ground . O f m Al ong the coast Guate ala the Shore appears level and covered with timber for some distance from th e water , when the mountains rise abruptly , the peaks being from ten to fourteen thousan d feet above the sea . 208 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

u r O next stopping place w a s at Champerico .

This is a small town on the coast of Guatemala . It is connected with the interior by a railroad

- f twenty seven miles in length , reaching large cof ee h plantations . Coffee has increased to suc an ex ten t Of l at e as to become a large export from this country . Champerico has no harbor ; ships arriv ing here have to anchor in the roadstead . Land ings must be made in small boats , which are dangerous in rough weather . Our ship lay at anchor here nearly twenty - four of w a s hours , and , although the surface the water n w a s as smooth as an inla d lake , there an under h current , or land swell , causing the s ip to roll as s e a if in a storm at , making it very uncomfortable for those on board . When again under headway , w e ou r o experienced no more of this , and go d ship on m plowed along as smoothly as a duck a ill pond . The next morning w e were at anchor in the roadstead off San Jose de Guatemala . From the deck of the ship a magnificent panorama burst — upon ou r view a long line o f black beach n washed by the foam of the breaki g wave , dense ’ forests of deep green coming down t o the water s edge , the unbroken inland as far as the eye coul d reach , with two volcanic peaks in the background . I have seen nothing on our trip down the coast half SO grand and beautiful as that which lay be fore me at this place .

21 0 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

c The streets ross each other at right angles , are well paved , and kept clean . They are all raised th e from their centers to Sidewalk , so that any thing th rown into them is washed into the sewers of by water that runs in the center the street . The entire city is lighted by electricity and has a fine system of street cars and all other modern improvements . A full description Of this beauti ful city would occupy too much space for this

n so . writi g , I will not attempt it

We returned to the Ship at half past ten P . M . after a trip Of two days full of interest . The next w e morning lay at anchor near Acaj utla , loading coffee and other freight . The only excitement to be had here w as in watching a school of whales playing about the ship . At times they woul d of raise themselves nearly out the water, within a ’ a stone s throw of the ship . It was the nearest

View I had ever had of a whale at se a . From there w e went to La Libertad , in Salvador , and then to a Punta Arenas , in Costa Rica . This is pretty t h e little town . It is situated at head of a beauti

u ful cove , s rrounded on three Sides by lofty moun n tai s , rich in gold and silver mines , which are being developed by En glish and American capi tal .

The town lies near the water, half hidden among trees o f the most magn ificent foliage of a tropical clime . The trees grow down to a beauti

o f ful beach black sand , which lines the Shore for JAMES BATCHELDER . 21 1

miles on either hand . The harbor here is not a

. t good one , it being Open to the sea In fac , the Pacific Coast from Acapulco to Panama has n o good harbors , and the landing of passengers from ocean steamers is very dangerous if the w eather is

fo r rough . It sometimes happens that passengers o of ports n rth Panama cannot be landed , but are

‘ obliged to go on t o Panama a n d t ry to la n d on the up tri p . a From Punta Arenas I went to P nama , thus

t h e ol im completing my voyage by steamship C a . The passage was not attended by any remarkable circumstan ce During the entire trip w e h a d

se a a s a s beautiful weather, the being smooth n f n w the i land seas O Alaska . Our passe ger list a s n ot . large The time was Spent in reading , writ ing , playing cards , telling stories , and in other s o n amusements o common an ocean voyage . It w ould be monotonous to the reader if I should describe the plea s ures and discomforts o f a long

’ ocean journey which must be enjoyed or su fl e re d by travelers . It will be s u ffi cient to state that

w a s a m the voyage cco plished without mishap , and with proba bly less than the usual discomforts of so long a journey . Panama is one of the Oldest towns on the

American Continent . It was settled before Cortez entered Mexico and before the conquest o f Peru by Pizarro . It w a s sacked and burned by that 1 670 h a s buccaneer , Henry Morgan , in , and suf 21 2 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF fe re d by pestilence and fire many times since . It o f n has a population about twenty thousa d , most

i - o f . s a which are black It a poverty stricken pl ce . h a s b Its money but little value , it eing forty per

cent below par for American gold . — There is a public plaza here a small open Sp a ce where the populace gather in th e evening to listen

to music by a military band , played twice a week . Otherwise there is nothing to see to interest any

one except the view from the sea wall . From w e here have a fine View of the beautiful bay , with o f its score islands , its many steamers and sails ,

a land View of the town and hills in its vicinity , and a long line of coast with ra n ge umpon range of the beautiful forest region of the isth us .

I was detained here twelve days , th e steamer that should have left for t h e south being in quar

a . antine at C llao While I was here , I visited a portion Of the work that is being done o n the

Panama Canal , which , when completed , will con

n e ct the Atlantic with the Pacific Ocean s . It is a

gigantic piece of work , and has already cost about

two hundred millions of dollars , and is only about

half done . After my twelve days ’ stay here I embarked on ’ the Pacific Navigation Company s steamer San ta w as Santa Rosa Rosa for Ca llao . It dark when the raised anchor mand started on her voyage south ward . When orning came , we found oursel ves

of the O f o n clear Bay Panama , the broad Pacific ,

and out of sight of land .

2 1 4 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

of c t tree , shrub , or blade grass , ex ep at long inter a re n a mvals , where there arrow v lleys of green , o f t arking the course some small river , s rug gling down from the mountains to the sea . t We landed at Payta , the most nor hern point P e ru a n d m in , then at several other s all towns which are connected b v rail with larger towns

back in the interior , and afterward went on to

Callao . O f u As I have said before , the entire coast Per is

barren and uninteresting , but , looking back for miles upon the dista nt ranges of mountai n s which

rise one above the other , until they unite with the o f n n a great chain th e A des , pin acle upon pinn cle th e o of purest white , t wer like clouds above th e dark outlines o f th e nearer mountains a n d form a

picture once seen not easily forgotten . We had crossed the line before reaching Guya

quil , and had had the sun very nearly over our

w a t o a . a heads all the y Call o All along , ne r the on a w w a s so equator , d rk nights , the ater full of

h a phosphorus t at the oce n seemed to be in a flame , and Sparks of fire appeared to rise from the sur

face . A cloud of light was seen traversing the

waves as far as the eye coul d see . h a r Callao is the port for Lima . It has a fine l bor , large , beautiful , and perfect y secure for ship

ping . The largest vessels can lie here with safety

This magnificent harbor is Sheltered by the long ,

a San lofty isl nd rock of Lorenzo , looming up about

four miles across the channel . 21 5 JAMES BATCHELDER .

Callao h a s suffered from earthquakes at various 5 da m times . Those doing the greatest amount of age occurred in 1 693 and 1 746 . At the latter da te Ca l lao w a s sunk and the country aro u nd was entirely submerged by th e tidal wave which fol lowed the earthquake . There were at the time

- twenty three vessels in th e harbor , nineteen of h which were sunk . T e other four were carried some distance on shore by the force of the wave .

The Spot inland where these vessels were stranded , O u is still pointed ou t to the visitor . Out of a p p lation of four thousand people only four h u ndred are said to have escaped . There are two lines O f railroad plying between the port and the capital . Each line runs trains

o n e every alternate hour all the day long , and by f t O these I proceeded direct o Lima . This city was founded by Pizarro , the discoverer and con o 1 u e r r 585 . q of Peru , in He called it the City of e rma n a n t the Kings , for the p seat Of the govern ment . Here he settled and resided until he fell of 1 541 by the hands assassins , in . The palace b ut that he built is still standing , has been par tia l ly destroyed by fire several times and as many n o w times been repaired . It is used as the official residence of the head of the government , and as f quarters for a detachmen t o troops . o n l t of The city is located a p ain , on bo h sides the river Rimac , which is spanned by a stone — bridge a n ancient and massi ve structure O f six 21 6 LI FE AND TRAVELS O F

1 61 0. h a s o n ! arches , built in It recesses each side furnished with seats , which are much frequented o n by the lower class pleasant evenings . The city o f n is full churches a d convents . There are no

- Si x s fewer than Sixty Catholic Churche , occupying the most valuable property in the city , and are exempt from taxation . They are all very wealthy . The celebrated cathedral is one o f the wealthiest to churches in th e world , and equal the famous cathedral in the City of Mexico . It fronts on the grand plaza and is a massive structure . It is three hundred and seventy - th ree feet long and

- fi one hundred and seventy ve feet wide . The roof and galleries are supported by Doric columns eighty - four feet high and nine feet in diameter at the base .

‘ The grand altar is on e of the most beau tiful pieces of carved work in the world . It was done by artists of the sixteenth century . The entire inside is richly ornamented with gold and Silver . n There are no pews , but almost everyo e carries a

o r rug mat , remaining constantly kneeling upon

h . t is during the service It has a chime of bells , the largest of which weighs four tons . It was 1 533 . cast in Madrid , Spain , in The clapper alone weighs three hundred pounds . The tower is where these bells hang reached by a narrow , w inding stairway . There are three organs in this is church , one of which said to be the third larg est i n the world .

21 8 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF is surmounted by a bronze figure representing

Gabriel in the act of blowing his trumpet . Be sides this principal fountain , there are smaller ones at each cor ner o f the pl a za used a s drinking fountains .

l a za o r There is another very fine p , public square , here called Independencia , which is adorned by a magnificent bronze equestrian statue of Boliver , f h the liberator o Peru from t e Spanish yoke . It w a s ca st in Munich and is thirteen feet nine inches high . The horse is represented as rearing , while the li berator waves his h a t wit h his right

his hand , thus throwing open cloak and displaying

o f a his uniform beneath . On th e sides the m rble pedestal are bronze tablets representing the deci sive battles which secured Peruvian independence .

Another tablet bears the national arms . It is placed on t h e spot where th e victims o f the I n

q u i s it io n were burned . The Inquisition was a

tribunal of rigid despo tism . Every year vast num bers of persons suspected of crimes were brought o f n here from all parts the cou try , to be tried by

this Inquisition . Most of them were doomed to

a dreadful punishment . The houses are built so as t o guard as much as possible against destruction of life by the frequent f occurrence of earthquake . Most o them are only

one story high . The walls are of matted cane , n frescoed o n the outside in imitation of sto e .

The roofs are flat , because the lack of rain renders 21 9 JAMES BA TOHELDER.

a pitched roof unnecessary . The houses of some of t h e better classes are elegantly fitted up and furnished . They all Open onto a portico or inner court yard , which is often converted into a beautiful garden thus inclosed by the house .

u . The ladies of Lima , as a r le , are very beautiful The people of the upper class are highly culti va t e d , refined , and have agreeable manners .

Th e a re v , when on the street , enveloped in a

m. is anto This a long black Shawl sometimes plain and often richly embroidered and trimmed I with lace . t covers the head and is wra pped in loose folds around the person . It is held by one so hand over the face , that only the eyes can be seen . It is very attractive and interesting . w as bu l lfi ht so While I here , I witnessed a g , common in Spanish countries ; but , as I gave a full description of one of these brutal scenes in a s a previous chapter , I will only y that the same cruel scenes were enacted as before .

Lima is twelve degrees south of the equator . t It never rains here , but here is a clou d of vapor that hangs over this section during the summer so n months , that vegetatio will grow without irri i t n Th i . ga o . e climate of Lima s delightful The l heat is n o t so great as at oth er places in the same latitude , on account of the cool breezes that blow from the Pacific and down the snowy sides of the

Cordilleras . While I was here I took a trip over the Oroya Railroad . This road w as built by 220 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

a M t a a of H rry eggs , the grea railro d contr ctor

South America . I t is one O f the most wonderful o f n feats engineering skill in th e world . It is ot completed , but when finished , it will run over a pass in the Andes fifteen thousand seven hundred

- b s e a and twenty two feet a ove the , and connect the rich , fertile valley of the Amazon River with t the seaboard of Peru . It will also es a blish by rail an d boat a steam communication between

a the Pacific and the Atl ntic Oceans . Leaving Lima the road runs along the valley of the Rimac for nearly fifteen miles , on an almost . level plain . We next enter a narrow gorge , where the stre a m comes down in a rushing torrent

be d . w e a over a stony As dvance , the slopes on either side become higher and steeper and nearly Of bare vegetation until we reach Chosica , about

- h as twenty six miles from Lima . Chosica an elevation of tw o thousand eight hundred and

- thirty o n e feet . Here the chief gradings and f o . great curves the line begin Looking ahead , we seem to be about to dash against the side Of a mountain of rocks , when the train stops , com o n menees to back up a higher zigzag , then it stops again and is drawn up another . This is

a ff a done four times , lways at a di erent level bove the same point in the valley .

The tunnels along th e line are frequent . Some

times o n e is directly above the other . We rise seven thousand three hundred and seventeen feet

22 LIFE AND TRAmVELS OF On my return from this ost interesting trip I Ecu a dor embarked on the steamship , at Callas , for h Mollendo . This latter place a s rather a danger u o s harbor . The landing is made by means of h i l k small boats through t e surf. One s u c y if he n m m a ages to get on the s all wharf without a

ducking .

u i From here to P no , on Lake T ticaca , three ’ a n d - fi ve hundred twenty miles distance , is a fine f O . m line railroad It is built on an easier and ore a economical pl n than the Oroya line . The mountain passes are lower and o ther obstacles

MO I less formidable . After staying two days at

lendo I started for Arequipa . We soon began to

ascend the foothills to Tanbo , one thousand feet a elevation , leaving the fine fertile valley of T nbo b to our right , down elow . From here we pro ce e de d along splendidly constructed serpentine O f or via lines railroad gradings , without tunnels

ducts , and with scarcely any artificial embank r i sm ments , g along the mountain Slopes to Cach tw o endo , three thousand hundred and fifty feet h above t e se a . Just before reaching this station w e an d l o f turned a Sharp curve , the g orious sight th e great middle Cordillera burst upon my eyes ,

t h e - of with snow covered peaks Coropuna , twenty two thousand eight hundred feet high ; Char

- chani , nineteen thousand ; Misti , eighteen thou

s ix san d hundred and fifty , and Pichupichu , seventeen thousand eight hundred feet above the JAMES BATCHELDER . 22 3

of se a . The last three surround the city Are so a s im quipa , and appear near to be in the n mediate eighborhood . Higher u p th e mountain the road is forced bit through barren rocks , with not a of vegetation . Tia va a At last , at station y , six thousand seven an d w e ot th e hundred fifty feet high , g first

“ glimpses into the green v a lley o f the Arequipa

. o n m River Farther , the any towers and high u ch rch buildings of the town itself com e in Sight , and a few minutes later the train runs into the

of fine station the famous city of Arequipa , seven thousand five hundred an d fifty feet above the

is sea . This a very pretty city , of nearly fifty thousand inhabitants . It resembles the city of i Guatemala in nearly every detail . It s situated an d v e e in a beautiful valley , green with fruit g O f tables almost every known kind , and watered RiV e r by the Arequipa , that passes through th e city . Like every other South American city I have t h e seen , it has its grand plaza , with cathedral on e d forming side , and closed in on the other si es by substantial buildings , all having portals , under which a lively retail trade is carried on . This h a s fl o w plaza a garden in its center , full of gay e rs and shrubs . In th e middle of this garde n i s a magnificent bronze fountain with three basins .

From the middle basin rises a pillar , surmounted by the figu re o f Fame spouting the water from her 24 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

trumpet . The water pours from the mouths o f four lions into the other two basins . On each of a re n corner the plaza small drinki g fountains . A band plays o n the plaza every Thursday and Sunday evenings to a large concourse o f people o f b w h o a oth sexes , promenade to the lively str ins o f the music . The cathedral is considered one of the fi n est buildings in South America . It is built entirely of square blocks of white sandstone . The interior

n e w o f contains a pulpit , beautifully carved solid o a k and executed in France in 1 879 . It w a s the i gift of a rich A u q u p a n lady . l n i m Neai y all the buildi gs are constructed with me n se l a n d v thick walls , are only one story high , o n account of the earth quakes which occur so fre quently here . Scarcely a week passes without

a some trembling of th e earth , but little d mage 1 6 w a s h a s been done Since 8 8 . The city almost n m a d destroyed at that time , fro five to six hun ca n dred people were lost . The consequences still be perceived in the h eaps of shapeless ruins l all around the town . Near y e very church and

r a o f m house still he a the tr ces that tre endous con v ul s ion of the earth .

From Arequipa I went by rail to Puno . After leaving the station the train soon crosses the val ley and river o n a fine trestle bridge sixty feet

. n n high and one thousand feet lo g . Asce ding in

a . sharp curves , it winds ro und the base of Mt

226 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF ning nearly on a dead level , brings mus to Puno , two hundred and eighteen miles fro Arequipa , and twelve thousa n d fi ve hundred and forty feet above the sea . We must stay at Puno Over

‘ s m night and take the tea er the next morning o n Chil il a a Lake Titicaca for y . This lake is one hundred and twenty miles long and forty miles wide . It is the highest nav i l h ga b e lake in t e world . It is twelve thousand fi ve fi e hu ndred and v feet above the se a . There are t w o w m. small scre stea ers running on this lake These steamers have a freight - carrying capacity of about one hundred and twenty tons . They have accommodation for twenty - four fi rs t - cl a ss p as se nge rs . The oldest of these steamers was years ago brought up to Puno in pieces from Tacna , on the backs of mules and llamas , over the fearfully Th rough Cordillera of Tacara . e pass reaches an elevation of fifteen thousand feet . It was an achievement which at the time a great many peo w as ple thought impossible , and it ridiculed even in the E u ropean papers . I will not undertake a description of the beau ties of this lake and the road beyond , for I cannot do it j ustice . The mountains around th e lake Slope down to the water ’s edge in a succession of a n d headlands , forming charming bays narrow channels , never allowing the sight of land to be of lost . The lake is full of islands , most which are considered sacred by t h e descendants of the JAMES BATCHELDER . 27

s u n Incas . These islands were dedicated to the and to the moon by their forefathers . There are mo f n o w any ruins beautiful structures here , d o f calle palaces of the Virgin , the sun , the tem ple of the moon , etc . Tradition says that in th e islands o f this lake were‘ developed the germs of

Inca civilization , when they established the seat

m. of govern ent at Cuzco s ff We anchored once during the trip . It w a o

CO o caba n a on p , a small town the large peninsula of the same name . It belongs to Bolivia . Here

Co o ca ba n a is the shrine of Our Virgin of p , far famed over the Andes provinces of Peru and Bo livia . Thousands of pilgrims , not only poor In t dians but also a great many of the bes families , particularly from La Paz and the surrounding villages, unite here every year to pay tribute to the Virgin during the great church feasts in

A ugust .

Soon we started again , when the fine panorama of th e immense snow - capped range of the Eastern n Cordillera gradually began to rise o the horizon .

It slowly showed more plainly , until the entire

o f a long chain the mountain giants c me into view , with their fields o f perpetual snow and their large b glaciers creeping down their sides , overlooked y

I l l mo o ra t o - a a S the gigantic p , twenty one thous nd mf o two hundred feet high , the sharp pyra id

P o t o zi Huaina , twenty thousand two hundred — feet , and the magnificent three peaked Illimani . a They were in full View all the w y to La Paz . 228 LIFE AND TR A VELS OF

w a s o f m This the most sublime panorama oun tain scenery I had ever seen . Long chapters might be w ritten to describe the beauties of t he th e mountain scenery in Andes , but space will i h not permit of t in t is . u I have visited the mo ntain regions of Alaska , M of the Rocky Mountains , the White ountains

N e w M o f Hampshire , the Green ountains Ver A l l e h an i e s of mont , the g and the Alpine region t Swi zerland , but I have seen nothing that will equal in beauty and grandeur the view that ca n be enjoyed from a trip over this route . Chil il a a w e When we landed at y , took the stage

t - for La Paz . We raveled along the table lands

- m. a for forty eight iles The st ge is an immense a cc mo om wagon drawn by eight horses and will a n date eighteen persons . We had ride of seve hours with three changes of horses . O u r first sight of La Paz w a s from a high ridge on above the valley which the city stands, and which we descend by zigzag tu rnings . The View n from this bluff is grand i deed . Sixteen hundred feet below , and directly under us in a broad ravine , w a s Spread the city of La Paz . Deep belo w were o f o f d the grayish groups houses the town , ivided by the gulch of th e river and relieved here and of a s there by green patches fields and meadows ,

well as by the trees and blooming shrubbery , having as a background th e Splendid white masses of the long range of the Cordi lleras .

23 0 ‘ LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

t h e mm u ighty A azon , which goes r shing through of dark , deep ravines , full cascades and roaring cataracts , down to the great Brazilian plains . On my ret u rn voyage t o Puno we got the fu ll n o f s o be efit one of the bursters , much dreaded here . It was indeed a rough night , and the storm handled o u r little steamer in a fearful man ner . Some of the passengers got seasick and paid tri bu te to the god o f Lake Titicaca as faith fully as they would have done t o o l d Neptune n f mm. himself u der si ilar circu stances I suf ered i n no way except from a sleepless night and by l w having my baggage wel soaked ith water , that cam e into the cabin whe n the se a rol led over the

deck .

From Puno I returned to Arequipa , where I stayed fourteen days a w aiting a steamer for Chile . At almost a ny point I visited in Per u I co u ld s e e ruins of ancient towns and cities that were once inhabited by the Incas . In these can be traced of t w of vestiges cas les , alls for defenses , remains h palaces , dwellings , flig ts of stone steps , stone towers , aqueducts , reservoirs , foundries , prisons , th e and tombs . In excavating last , many articles of v u n t o f gold and sil er , with great q a ities pottery , silver coins , etc . , have been taken from them . Business i n Per u is ve ry dull at the present

m. v ti e It has ne er recovered from the effects of h l Th t the war with C i e . e government was lef poor and many wealthy families were reduced to JAMES BATCHELDER . 31

poverty . The ruins and wrecks in Lima , Mol s a d u lendo , and other places , give still a pict re o f what happened during the unfortunate war .

The Chilean army , after conquering the coun n try , stole ma y articles of value , such as wild animals from the zoologicaml garden in Lima, valu able libraries , statuary fro public gardens , orna mental street lamps , etc . , and conveyed them to

Chile . The Per u vians h ave a native drink called Chi che , which is made of Indian corn , and contains all the nutriment there is in the corn . It is pleas ant to the taste , healthy and cheap . It is used in large quantities by the poor people , and supplies in a great measure the necessity for more solid food .

The Indians of Per u are called Cholers . They are the pure descendants of the Incas . Some of them are quite good looking . The men wear a poncho , a large shawl with a hole in the center , through which the head goes . The folds come

down to the knees . They are never without this . It makes an overcoat by day a n d a blanket by night . The women wear short dresses reaching

m. to the ankles , and Pana a hats All along these high mountain passes I saw large flocks of exceedingly beautiful little animals

called vicunas . They are much valued for their is fine and precious wool , which Spun and woven into beautiful shawls and other fine woolen goods

by the Indians . 232 LIFE AND TRAVELS O F

I was told at Mollendo that while traveling in these great altitudes I would be likely to suffer

se ro ch a o f e f from , a kind mountain sickness , the h f feets of which vary wit dif erent individuals , as does seasickness . I was not troubled with this

a in the least , but I observed it in others , and it p pe a re d to annihilate all pleasure that they might otherwise have enjoyed . Leaving Arequipa I went to Mollendo and took

n mi r il passage o the stea ship V g a for Chile . On the passage to Valparaiso a most unfortunate o c currence took place in the death o f the steward of the Ship . He died suddenly , and , there being no doctor on board , it was impossible to procure a h certificate stating t e cause of his death . This o c ca sio n e d great uneasiness among the passengers , for fear w e might be ordered into quarantine on

V . w a s our arrival at alparaiso Fortunately , this on not done , and we were allowed to go shore .

Valparaiso , which means th e Vale of Paradise , has a fine harbor . Hundreds of crafts can be se e n here , bearing the flags of almost every nation o in the world . mThe h arbor is large and pict r esque . An al ost perpendicular ridge extends nearly around the bay . The city extends three or four miles along a narrow strip of land which lies between the se a and the cliffs . In some places

there is only width enough for one street . At others , for three or four running parallel to each other, but these extend for only a few blocks .

234 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

to flirt with the conductors , who are sometimes quite handsome . The experiment of having female conductors

w a r u was first tried during the with Per , when

- the able bodied men were sen t to th e army . It proved so su ccessful that their employment has become permanent . From Valparaiso I went to Santiago by a rail I s road which run on the English plan . The cai s are similar to those in use all over Europe . The scenery along the line is grand and picturesque , t h e snowcaps of the Andes being constantly in

View . Santiago is the capital of Chile and is a beauti ful city . It was founded by Pedro Valdivia in 1 41 i 5 . It s Situated on a plain at the foot of the

Cordilleras Mountains .

The Alameda , the principal street of the city , is n a beautiful place . It is three hu dred feet wide and has four rows o f poplar trees and two streams f o pure running w a ter over its entire distance . It u of stretches the f ll length the city , three miles , from Santa Lucia to the Exposition Park and

Horticultural Gardens . In the center is a wide promenade , while on either side is a driveway one i hundred feet w de . The promenade is dotted with a line of statues representing famous men or commemorating fain f o us event s in the history o Chile . There is an ’ of O Hi i n s equestrian statue gg , a celebrated leader 2 JAMES BATCHELDER . 35

at the time of the war for independence . He is on horseback and is represented as having just w ho ridden down a standard bearer , is lying ’ his under horse s feet , still grasping the fallen ’

n h n . banner . The reins are o t e horse s eck He ’ ’ Hi i n is rearing madly . O gg s arms and hands t he are extended in the air , one flashing a sword , other pointing before him , while with open mouth he is calling on his comrades to follow him . The Alameda is thronged on pleasant after noons with handsome carriages . From three to ’ fi ve o clock several military bands are placed at intervals of nearly half a mile , and the music calls ou t large crowds of people to drive or walk . The equipages to be seen here are equal to those in n Ce tral Park and Rotten Row. Fronting The Alameda o n either side are the fi e n st palaces and dwellings in the city , their bea u tiful gardens being adorned with fountains . o f In a walk through this street , a superb view the Andes can be obtained . These mountains rise near the city to the most maj estic height . The Santa Lucia is one of the most beautiful n o f places I have ever see . It is a hill rocks one thousand feet high , rising abruptly from the very n heart of the city , and co verted by art into one of the most beautiful of promenades and parks . of a There is a succession winding walks , st ir ways , parapets , and balconies , grottoes , flower

- beds , groves of trees , and vine hanging arbors , 236 LI F E AND TRAVELS O F

h mt e . fro base to the summit At the west Side , near the edge o f a precipice eight hundred feet i n h eight , is a miniature castle and a lovely little r ‘ th chapel . Three o four hundred feet below e on i chapel , the opposite side of the h ll , is a level place on which a restaurant and outdoor theater have been erected . f This place is the resmort o the aristocracy . They come here on sum er nights to eat ices , l a drink beer , isten to the plays on the st ge and to the bands o f music . They make themselves or merry , j ust as their age , fancy , idleness impels them . From the summit there is a splendid panoramic of View the city , the fertile valley studded with numerous hamlets and the great snowy range of o n e the Andes . No other point about here gives such a lovely View of the city and its numerous gardens . The main plaza is a large open space adorned with trees , flower beds , and a miniature lake

filled with thousands of goldfish of all sizes . In of h the middle this lake is a s owy fountain , Spurt ing water from the mouths of numerous dragons . Thme great cathedral forms one side of this plaza , so e public buildings another, while modern h houses with arcades complete t e square . The botanical and zoological garden is a fine

o f . place , with a good collection animals Every thing is well managed and neatly kept . The

238 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

o n e fast as cowmis exhausted , another is driven upon the platfor . The shops a n d stores here are filled with the

e w prettiest kinds of goods ; expensive diamonds , j

‘ e l r t h at ca n y , and laces , in fact , everything be found

o r ma v in Paris in London , be purchased here . The ladies of Santiago are famous for their beauty and fine complexion . They dress in the height o f the Paris fashions . V At Santiago , alparaiso , and other points I

had grand views of the gigantic masses of Mt . Aconcagua lifting its table - like summit twenty two th o usand si x hundred feet above the se a and far above all the snowy ranges of the A n des . No one has ever reached its s u mmit ; but greater altitudes have been reached in the Him a layas in n is I dia . It a grand Sight , standing as it does alone with no other high peak near it . The clearness of the atmosphere in this region gives

one an Opportunity to see it at a long distance , on P a Nevertheless , it is only while sailing the cific that one sees this mountain in its complete w proportions , for the Andes , on hich it rests , are heaved to such a vast altitude that the relative elevation of it s summit becomes reduced by com Th e parison with the surrounding mountains . Andes constitute an uninterrupted mountain chain from t h e Straits of Magellan in the south to the th of e . Isthmus Panama , in north This chain is close to the Pacific shore and is four thousand

five hundred miles in length . 3 9 JAMES BATCHELDER .

Along this mountain chain are broad , frigid deserts swept by fiercely cold w inds and deep n valleys , gorges and ravines in which flow swelli g rivers or rapid torrents fed by the melting snow in the dry season and swollen by the rain during the w e t season . A railroad is bein g con structed across these mountains , which , when completed , will connect

Chile with Argentine Republic . One can then make t h e trip from Valparaiso t o Buenos Ayres in a Pullman car a mid some of the grandest scenery in the world . The hotels in South America a s a rule are good . Some are as handsomely furnished and a s o r well kept as any in San Francisco New York . They are kept generally by women whose hus n bands are e gaged in other occupations , but the servants , including cooks and bed makers , are men . Wherever I went in Chile I could se e some of the ornaments which had been stolen from — Peru during the war ornamental street lamps , benches of carved stone in parks , pretty iron fences , images from the cemeteries , altar equip n ments , etc . Among other thi gs are two marble

on e statues , of George Washington , the other of

Abraham Lincoln . They stand in the court in yard of the post office Santiago . They were also brought from Peru . Everywhere I went in Central and South Amer I no l ica , ti ce d arge numbers of churches and 240 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

of monasteries , with a great number priests and

se x . devotees , the latter mostly of the fair ' Leaving Santiago I returned to Valparaiso and embarked on the fine Pacific Steam Navigation

’ ‘

Co . s P i z rr o steamer a for Callao . For the last six months t h e ports north o f Chile had been closed to all vessels from any Chilean port , but th ey were now open to vessels which would undergo a quarantine in the fi rst port at which they

Ml l e n u r . w e o de o woul d call So when reached , w a s n m ship co de ned to pass the five days in quarantine at this port . I V e were made very

comfortable on board during the time , thanks to

the officers o f the Ship . In the passage from C hile I had an oppo rt u n it P asa u a an d y to pay short visits to Iquique , q ,

Arica . A large business is conducted at every

on e of these places , in the manufacture of salt petre from the nitrate of soda that is found in

great quantities in the interior . The ports belonged to Peru before the war with re Chile , at which time th ey were taken and still

mai n the proper ty o f the Chilean Government . It

a s 1 868 Wa teree w at Arica , in , that the steamship w a s carried about a mile inl and by a tidal wave that followed the earthquake which w as so disas trous to life and property a t A ra q u ipa and other

places in t h e vicinity . Nothing remains now of

the noble Ship but the boilers . which still mark a tere e the spot wh e re she w a s stranded . The W

belonged to the United States N avy .

242 LIFE AND TRAVELS .

S se a We had no torms at , and the various ships th e were as steady as anything on water can be . Even the most forlorn of the passen gers had little

excuse for sea sickness . i n the n tr o . The pf whole , was an e joyable one r mfe w u There we e so e detentions that co ld not be is avoided . They were annoying , but there always some bitter to be tasted with every sweet . The bee , which finds a thorn on every rose , comes home laden with honey . My a rrival hom e h as been welcom ed by many a friend , for there are few who have not a friend to take an interest in their return . The whole trip w a s accomplished without an accident and

h . n m devoid of t e slightest illness O ce ore I thank P ro ide n ce w h o h kind v , watc ed over me and guided n n me through all the da gers of so lo g a journey .

And n o w the exc u rsion is finished . I warmly th ank those whom I chanced to meet a s I jour n e e d for y from place to place , they showed me a l l every kindness and attended to my wants . I now bid them all a dieu . X V C H A P T E R I .

A SECOND TRIP AROUND THE WORLD .

FTER my return from South America I determined that at some futu re time I would take another trip around the w l d o ne or d , over a ifferent route from the I had e of traveled befor , and visit some parts the world

n o t . that I had yet seen So , after making all

n a necessary arra gements for the voyage , I st rted o n m this ost interesting trip , and I will endeavor to give a feeble description of t h e route a n d some of th e sights on the way . I left San Francisco in the latter part of Janu

1 890 A u str a li a ary , , on the steamship , for Hono

u . l lu , Hawaiian Islands The scenes and inci dents connected w ith t h e departure o f all ocea n steamers are substantially the same , and , having d h a escribed t em in , previous chapters , I will sp re

sa the reader , and y only that a large crowd h a d collected at the wharf to bid their frien ds

- on u good bye and Godspeed their jo rney . Amid (243) 244 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

kisses , hand shaking , regrets , tears , and waving of t h e handkerchiefs , bell rang , the gates were closed , on and the great ship started her long journey .

o u t We soon passed Fort Alcatraz , and glided u b thro gh the Golden Gate into the road Pacific . I stood o n the deck watching th e hills along the saw coast , and them change from green to blue and from blue to purple , behind us , until at length they sank in the distance . I then turned my attention to my fellow - passen se e gers , to whom fate had thrown together,for it is often the case that a journey which w ould other wise be long a n d tedious is rendered delightful by good company . We soon became acquainted with one another , even formed friendships , made o w n a little society of our , and parted reluctantly at the end of the voyage . I have always found persons on an ocean voy age w h o like t o have someone to talk with and to

mu o r . com nicate their adventures prospects One often meets with queer characters on such voy

bu t i s ages , it an easy matter to rej ect such as do not ' harmonize with us as soon as that fact is fairly ascertained .

The passage to Honolulu w a s uneventful . We h a d w a s fine weather , and the time Spent in the amusements that are usually indulged in on such w a s d u n voyages . It ren ered partic larly interesti g of t he by two natives islands , who entertained the passengers each evening in the social hall with

246 LIFE AND TRAVELS O F

i Honolulu is the capital of th e kingdom . It s

on O u l a situated the island of Oahu , and has a p p

of - fi ve tion about twenty thousand , including

Whites , natives , and Chinese . The city is very

pretty . It has many fine business blocks , several

beautiful public parks , and along most of the

l o w - streets are built cottages standing well back , with broad , inviting verandas , nearly hidden by

- fl ow tropical and semi tropical plants , trees , and of n ers . This city is full choice or amental shade n al mr a d b e trees , among which are the cocoa ut p , h . T e fruit , and candle nut Royal Band gives con certs a t the Hawaiian Hotel tw o or three evenings

of . the week , and discourses excellent music The

drives about the city are beautiful and well kept . There are many th ings t o be seen in and about n d ks a a m. the city that are interesting using I V e e could be spent h ere and every day one would be n able to s e e somethi g new and strange . From here I took a trip to the volcano o f Kil h a u e a t e . , the largest active volcano in world It th e o f is situ ated on island of Hawaii , the largest n the group . This island is inety miles long and

- n seventy four miles wide . It contai s four thou

sand two hundred and ten square miles . The volcano has a crater on the eastern side of Ma u na

Loa , four thousand and forty feet above the level

of the sea . I left Honolulu by the steamship Ki n au for n e a rl v Hilo , a distance of two hundred and fifty JAMES BATCHELDER . 247

f is m. o iles The greater portion this trip occupied in crossing the channel s between the different fo r islands . These channels are remarkable their roughness and heavy ocean swells . The rough n i s ness of the English Chan el , or Lake Titicaca , nothing when compared with these channels .

They are a dread to even old seafaring voya gers .

The scenery of Hawaii is grand and picturesque . f Numberless waterfalls pour over the high bluf s , o n of and the uplands are great fields sugar cane . Beyond these can be seen the three great peaks of the island . Mau na Kea is on the left . It rises thir teen thousand eight hundred and five feet above the se a and is capped with snow . On the right is mHa u l a l ai th e lesser ountain , called , eight thou t w o n —fi ve sand hu dred and seventy feet in height , mth e f while in the iddle superb rounded dome o Mau n a Loa rises thirteen thousand Six hundred

- and seventy fi ve feet above the s e a level . On the morning of the second day out w e ar

a t . rived Hilo This is a small , quiet town and conveys a perfect idea o f tropical life . The town

- has a great variety of fruit bearing trees , among is which the alligator pear prominent .

a It r ins almost every day in Hilo , and I was told that one h undred and thirty inches have

f r fallen during a single year . This accounts o the many brooks and rivulets that pervade the gar dens and course along the roadsides . The dis tance is thirty miles from Hilo to the volcano , 248 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF twelve of which are made by carriage and the re ma i n d r o n e horseback over a rough trail . The whole route i s ful l of the evidences o f fierce volcanic action . Soon after leaving th e town we F r entered the Hilo woods . o several miles the scenery is unsurpassed by any tropical woodlan d

View I have ever seen . The road is a good one , and the forest includes an infinite variety of trees , n shrubs , vi es , and ferns . The ferns especially n grow in the greatest profusion . Beyo d the forest o f w land are groves cocoanut palms , which ill n o flourish where other tree will gro w . About seven miles from the Volcano House w e w e entered a second strip of woods , and when emerged from this w e were close to the hotel on t h e edge of the crater. This will be a very easy and interesting trip after t h e completion of the carriage road which is being built by the govern h ment . It will ru n throug the most beautiful woodland views imaginable , where at every turn in ascending or descending there is someth ing n e w and beautiful to be seen . It would be almost a hopeless task to try to describe th e richness and variety of plant life along the route .

Standing on the bank of the crater of Kilauea, fe w V w e a rods from the olcano House, looked down five o r Six hundred feetmupon the floor of the pit . It looks smooth fro this height , but w hen the descent to it is made , it is found to be tossed and torn into massive mounds and waves

250 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

. m spouting billows of flame A few minutes ore and the lake had cooled ; a hard crust had formed 2 over it ; the spirting fountains had changed thei r position . In a short time the movement began

. a s e again The lake burst open befor , and the mass that h a d been black but a few minutes previ mh ious beca e a second time a seet ing red sheet of

fire . This volcano is constantly changing . It in in increases and diminishes , but only a few stances has it been known to wholly die out , and then only for a few weeks at a time . This is only a feeble description of what is to be seen at Kilauea . I have tried to give only f it s mth e o some most i portant features , memory f n o which will li ger with me as long as I live . I sat there and watched it until I was sa tisfied . I then returned to the Volcano House under the c of are of my guide , stumbling over blocks lava of and through vast fields sulphur holes , from of n so which poured j ets hot , blindi g steam beav ily laden with sulphur a s to make it di fficult to breathe . We reached our hotel in safety at ten ’ o clock in the evening . We found a nice warm

u s w e y . supper awaiting , which enjo ed After a cozy chat by a cheerful log fire , I had a few

t . hours of deep , swee sleep This trip from Honolulu w a s the roughest by s e a and th e hardest by land that I have ever made , but the scene I witnessed more than repaid me for the hardship I had to endure , and I would not have missed it for the world . JAMES BATCHELDER . 51

Along the edge o f the volcano are numero u s th e o f large tree ferns , often reaching to height h twenty feet , with leaves eig t or ten inches long o r a n d stems three four inches in diameter . u They are very bea tifully colored , revealing all

f . m the shades o green They are the arvel and f n delight of every lover o ature . There are also red berries here , called by the natives ohelo .

They. resemble large red currants , and are some what agreeable to the taste . These berries were considered sacred t o the fire goddess Pele bv the natives until the beginning of the present of h centu ry . No one dared to eat them before e h a d it thrown some into the fiery p of the volcano . In the yearm1 825 a famous chiefess w h o h a d been converted fro paganism to the Christian religion th e by the missionaries , is said to have defied power

o f . the fire goddess Pele She visited th e volcano , a n d reproved the idolatrous worshipers , neglected every rite which they had been taught t o consider n ecessary for their welfare . In vain the priests threatened h e r with the vengeance o f the offended h deity . She replied that S e feared them not ; that the fire of th e volcano w a s the work of the God she sh e con worshiped , and that would abide the sequences of daring Pele in t he recesses of her domain . After eating several of the berries , she to went the brink of the abyss , descended several hundred feet towards the liquid lava , and cast fl ame s— some of the berries into the a n act most 252 LIFE AND TRAVELS o F

n sacrilegious, accordi g to their ideas . Then she praised God amidst one o f the most sublime o f his works . From there I returned to Honolulu by the the mM same route and embarked on stea ship ari

osa a . w a p for Auckl nd , New Zealand On the y of we stayed a short tim e at the island Tutuila , one of the Samoan group . Here we were met by a f m. or s all boat Mail the other islands was taken on board and landed . Any letters that were written on our Ship were taken a shore an d mailed for their destination in any part of the world . These are the islands that suffered such destru o tion o f life and property by the great hurricane about a year ago , when several ships of the Ger man and American navy were wrecked . ’ u 26 d On Wednesday , Febr ary , within two ays sail from Auckland , we crossed the one hundred and eightieth meridian o f longitude from Green t o wich . The next morning we awoke find it h 28t . Friday , the The explanation of this is sim ple . Traveling toward the west we were going with the sun and constantly gaining upon it . If

e w e w should go completely around the world ,

would gain an entire day o n the circuit . Going h is . eastward , it reversed and we lose time T ere it o r fore , is necessary , in order to rectify this loss

of gain time , to strike a day out of the week when going westward and to add on e when going east

ward .

LIFE A N D TRAVELS O F

a sugar loaf, about one thousand feet high , lying near the city , from whose summit superb views n are obtained of the sea , city , and surrou ding

. v country Looking south ward , the iew extends of m over a large extent country , rising fro which

v are numerous volcanic peaks , whose fires ha e ou t long since died , but the evidences of their mighty works are strewn all over the country . n ou t Turni g to the north , the city lies spread at our feet , with its parks and gardens , which are n very fine and extensive . Farther o is the beau tiful bay , with its many outlying islands , crowned B . e with mountains , whose summits rise high n n as can yo d these , extendi g far as the eye reach , is the great Pacific .

About noon I returned to the vessel , and we f started for Sydney . It is a distance o twelve ’ i s hundred miles , which four days travel The a first twelve hours we ran near the land , long the a co st of Northern New Zealand , which is high n and picturesque . We then rou ded North Cape , . fa r n an d left behind the Three Ki gs , a group of of islands a few miles north the cape , and the last land we were destined to se e until th e Shores of

Australia should greet our sight . This route is a said t o be the roughest part of the Pacific Oce n . t o Our trip , however, seemed have been an ex ce tion w as u p , for the ocean as calm and peacef l a s on e could wish , and well deserved the name

Pacific . 255 JAMES BATCHELDER .

In fact, the entire trip from San Francisco to Sydney w a s made during beautiful weather . Most of the way the se a w a s a s smooth a s the Bay

on . of San Francisco a calm day As a rule , the

' n ot SO Pacific is rough as the Atlantic , nor is the weather as hot here as in the same latitude of the

- eastern hemisphere . There w as no day d u ring the voyage that we did not have a cool breeze , which made it delightful to lie back in a steamer chair, and gaze at the almost boundless ocean , while the ship plowed along . On coming to Sydney w e passed through at a l the Heads , a small opening in a long line of

cl ifl s h a r most unbroken red , into a landlocked bo r called Port Jackson . From that point can be seen the Queen City of the southern b emis h e re u p , Sydney , with its great b ildings , towers , domes , spires , monuments , lofty chimneys , and f forest o ships . It was at th ese Heads in 1 856 that the captain of a British ship returning from Englan d with a

o f large load passengers , undertook to make the harbor without the aid of a pilot. It being a very dark night and the wind blowing a gale , he mis took the entrance , and in a few minutes all were a s lost excepting on e man . He w found the next f w a s day clinging to some rocks under the clif s , f o . rescued , and told the fate the ship The harbor of Sydney is on e of the finest in the f world . It is sheltered by bold and lofty bluf s . 256 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF

1 The city was founded in 788 . Its natura l situa tion is very beautiful . It stands o n a ridge of ' sandstone rock which runs down to the bay in

th e l numerous ridges , between which lie natura

o f th e . harbors place It is a pretty city , and is o f o n e o f the capital New South Wales , the five colonies of which Australia is composed . h a s Each colony its own governor , parliament , postal and railway system . New Sou th Wales is

- n a free trade colony . So o e arriving at Sydney

f i o f h e suf ers no exam nation baggage , but if takes M hi s the train for elbourne , luggage must be ex a mi n d e o l n at the frontier of the next c o v. Many of the buildings in Sydney are made of freestone , which looks light and cheerful , but the

n h a streets are arrow and crooked . The city s

n a re many fine statues , prominent amo g which those o f the queen of Engl a nd the prince con sort , and Captain Cook . A rt The National Gallery , which stands in the mo f idst a great park , called the Domain , has a large collection of paintin gs . It i s always Open h to t e public . There are pretty parks and public ' n Z o a n d n a gardens , i cluding th e o logical mBota ic l Gardens , each with a good collection , aking de lightful resorts . All these parks and gardens , to gether with the National Museum , are Open to the f public at all times free o charge .

a s a While I w in Austr lia , I took a trip to Bot a any Bay . This place w s discovered by Captain

258 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

I visited three o f these narrow canons with Ka huge waterfalls , called Wentworth Falls , ’ e toomba Falls , and Gobett Leap .

Wentworth Valley , below the falls , is a narrow gorge , into whose gloomy depths a beautiful stream vanishes in a series of magnificently grace ful cataracts . At the head of this valley is a rocky , perpendicul ar wall of about one thousand feet in height . From the base of this wall the lower f clif s fall away in terraces , until the sides nearly meet .

These valleys , gullies , and waterfalls reminded me very much of th e G ra n d Canon in the Yellow stone National Park . All along the sides of these mountains , at the altitudme of between three and su m four thousand feet , are so e of the favorite mer resorts of the Sydney people .

Leaving Mt . Victoria Station by stage , we climbed higher and higher amid beautiful sce n w e o f ery , until reached the height four thousand

- three hundred and sixty fi ve feet . Then w e de scended the mount ain side by sharp zigzags for some two thousand feet , until the mouth of the n caves was reached . Here we were co ducted to the Cave House , a rough but very comfortable i building . It is lo cated in a ravine , w th steep hills rising onboth sides . Facing the house is a

fi ve grand arch , hundred feet long , sixty feet high , and fifty feet wide , through which a lovely stream courses its w a y at a ra pid rate . 59 JAMES BATCHELDER . These caves were disco vered in 1m841 by a band of mounted police who traced a nu ber of fleeing o f convicts to their shelter . The extent the caves

n ot 1 856 . . was known until Mr Willson , the pres of ent proprietor the Cave House , while hunting n m a wild cattle , came across them , d co menced their exploration . The governm ent then took possession of them and reserved them as publ ic

. o n e property , paying Mr Willson hundred and

fifty pounds per year durin g his life . The area thus set apart is a bout si x square miles . The caves are of enomrmous extent . The entire region is a mass of li estone and shells , which shows an upheaval from the se a . Deep gorges and valleys have been carved ou t of this by rain and running water , which have worn away the th rock and hollowed out e caves . The mountain 1 8 m for an unknown distance honeyco bed with these in series at different levels . Some of them are hundreds of feet above the others . These caves form the most beautiful Spectacle I have n ever seen . Their beauty a d grandeur surpass all description .

o r Passages open above below into great halls , is or abysses , hundreds of feet in height . There great wealth of beauty and variety of form and

- color of the alabaster like material . Brilliant crystals hanging from the roof and encrusti n g the walls vary in size from gigantic column s to

m. the ost delicate fretwork All of these places 260 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

have been given names , such as Bridal Veil ’ G a reci n Bend , Confectionery Shop , Lot s Wife , etc . One is very appropriately called Crystal

the a City , for crystallizations have rranged them i mi n i t u re l ike n s selves over a level floor in a e s to

ra m a collection of buildings , streets , towers,and

- . a n d parts Another well named Spot , the most f o . striking all , is the battle field It is really a crystallized Vision o f a battl e . I could se e the confused mass of m en at arms , horses and ban n h ners struggli g slowly down over t e edge . There they stand as if afraid to proceed . Still anoth er of exquisite beauty h a s been properly called The Mystery . It is a great mass of — a n crystallization , several feet in extent ta gled

- maze of branch es and lace like filaments , Spark

n in n ot li g every direction with gems , only beauti ful in form but of the loveliest colors mingled with the purest white .

The variety of coloring is remarkable . Some times you will se e a single brown o r red pillar s o n among a forest of white ones . There are ma y of these beautiful obj ects th at I w il l not attempt of to describe them all , so will speak only two more . In on e of these chambers a number of stal a c tite s give out beautiful soft tones when struck .

A tune can be played upon them . This place is l l called Music Ha . In the lower caves are streams of whose sources are still unknown , and pools clear

262 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

On my return to Sydney I stayed a few days and then went to Melbourne , a distance of five hundred and seventy miles by rail . Sleeping cars

n s are run on the ight trains , but they are not o fine nor are the accommodations as good as on o f roads the same length in America . At Albury , a station on the dividing line between the Colonies a of New South W les and Victoria , a change of cars is made , because the colonies insist on maintaining f dif erent gauges for their railways . The country along the route is generally uninteresting The

' landscape is every where lacking in the pict u r esque , by reason of the monotony of its foliage . The eucalyptus i s almost the only Species to be t seen , which at its bes is not a very beautiful tree . The soil is rich and produces everything that can

o f be raised in California , besides many kinds fruit which are unknown in California . Fruit is

- sold for about one half the California price . on Melbourne , the capital of Victoria , is situated the banks of the Yarra . It has a population of ff nearly four hundred thousand , and di ers much from Sydney . The latter , with its beautiful bay and surroundings , is much more picturesque , but the streets of Melbourne a re wider and better laid out . Melbourne has several fine parks and public

be a u tifi e d a gardens , with trees , miniature l kes , fountains , rocky basi ns , and artificial waterfalls . The Botanical and Zoological Gardens are partie u l a rl y interesting , the latter because it contains 263 JAMES BA TCHELDER. a number o f birds and animals that are natives of the country . The kangaroo and wombat are ,

. I believe , to be found in no other in the world T o f f here are also animals dif erent lands , as are t o be seen in ou r traveling menageries . There is of of a fine collection the feath ered races , those Australia being n oted for th e gorgeousness of their plumage .

Melbourne h as a fine system of cable railways . f ma a s The cars are o the sa e p ttern those in use

ma . o n th e Market Street syste in San Fr ncisco s o They are well patronized . The streets are wide that the cars are n ot a hindrance to other traffi c . ’ Di e ma n s While in Australia I visited Van i Land , now called Tasmania . The trip occup es h twenty hours , t ree of which are spent on the

Yarra River and Hobson Bay . We then passed ou t through the heads into th e open sea just at nightfall . This is generally a rough trip and there was no exception t o the rule in our ca se .

Our little craft was tossed about like an eggsh ell , but sh e w a s a good se a boat and rode the waves splendidly . When I awoke next morning , land w a s in sight . On approaching it w e entered the broad river Tamar , whose banks are lined with A . S w e rushes and gu m trees we proceeded , s passed in rapid succe sion lovely islands , rounded

Slopes , fertile flats with verdant foliage , and here ’ and there isolated houses . After three hours rid e 264 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF up this river between narrowing banks that di s e ve r t u rn a closed some fresh beauty at y , we p roa ch e d o f p the city Launceston .

t h e n Ho ~ It is second city in size on the isla d , b a rt being the largest It is situated at the junc o f u tion th e North and So th Esk Rivers , where i of they merg e into the w der waters the Tamar . There is not much to be seen except the gorge through which the North Esk tumbles down to the Tamar in a series of cascades , gliding between of huge rocks several hundreds feet in height , f forming a living picture o great beauty . From there I went by a narrow - gauge railway

o f . to Hobart , the capital the island The route i s over steep grades . around sharp curves , and through picturesque scenery . About twenty miles mf fro Hobart we came in sight o the River Der

w e . went , which followed to the city The shores of this river are bold and picturesque . The hills rise beyond t hem in flowing lines until they melt into distant mountains . These , with capes , trees , and dwellings , form a picture the beauty of which is rarely surpassed .

Hobart is a pretty city charmingly situated .

It is surrounded by hills and mountains , except

- where the Derwent opens into lake like form ,

- making a deep and well sheltered harbor , whence it leads its way into the Southern Ocean . There are many delightful drives about Hobart , and ex cu rsi on steamers make daily trips to places of i n r st e e in the vicinity .

266 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

n o w o f is one the Australian colonies , with a gov

u Re re cruor , Ho se of Parliament , and House of p se n t a ti ve s d , but , like the other colonies , it is un er the protection o f Great Britain .

n l r o n Returni g to Me bourne , I emba ked the Ya rra steamship , of the French mail , for Mar

. w a s seilles , France Our first stopping place Port w e Adelaide , where took the train for the city of

Adelaide , nine miles inl and . It is an attractive

city , of nearly thirty thousand inhabitants . It is the capital of South Australia . I t s streets are of wide . Most the houses are built of white sand

- stone . The trim gardens , well kept lawns , and luxuriant hawthorne hedges give the city a light

. w as and cheerful appearance While I here , I took a carriage ride over. the town a n d visited th e

Botanical Gardens . They are quite extensive n and very handsome . They are ador ed with statuary , artificial lakes , trees , ferns , and flowers ,

making a most delightfu l resort . People gath er there by the thous a nds to promen ade t o the lively strains of music rendered by a military ban d . w a s Our next stopping place at Albany , a small ’ town on the shore of King George s Sound , in

Western Australia . The coast line along this

. m sound is broken but picturesque So e of the A s e capes rise perpendicularly from the sea . w th e t h e approached entrance to harbor , great basaltic columns were to be seen at the right and

left , resembling castles and towers , rising in many A T H E 2 JAMES B c ELD R. 67

s places more than a thousand feet above the e a . — There is n o t much to be seen in Al bany a few streets and some fine residences surrounded by

flower gardens . The town lies in a nice little on of cove the sound , a beautiful sheet water studded with rocky islands . Beyond this is Ca pe a to se e fo r Lunen , the last l nd we were destined twelve days . Leaving here , we rounded this cape and commenced ou r journey of three thou

- si x sand nine hundred and twenty miles , to make n f o e o the islands in the Sechelles group . we were n ow fairly o u t o f the South Pacific and in the Indian Ocean . On the third day out we encountered a gale from the southwest , which lasted all day . The s e a presented a sublime spectacle . It was lashed

w - by the ind into huge , mountain like waves , which came rolling over a n d over from as far as the eye could reach . It was a grand sight to me , n ot m for I am timid or affected by the otion of th e ship . I sat on deck for hou rs watching the foaming heaps o f water as they came rolling di r e ctl y towards us . Our Ship met them nobly and rode tri u mph a ntly over their heads .

Towards night the wind went down , and the

h a d skv n ext morning we a bright , a pleasant i se a . W w nd , and a smooth hen I woke on the t h morning of e twelfth day from Albany , land was in sight . It was hailed with delight by all o n board . I know of nothing that affords one so 268 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF much pleasure as a stroll on shore after being con fined for weeks to the narrow limits of a steam s e e ship , with nothing to but the sky and the ocean . We had reached the island of Mahe , one f o the Sechelles group . It is situated in the In o f dian Ocean off th e coast Madagascar , four de grees south of th e equator . th e These islands , together with Mauritius group lying near , belong to England . They form o f a colony , have a governor and House Parlia

ment . The island presents an attrac tive picture as one approaches it from the sea . It appears to be one of o r vast mountain rock , with little no vegeta o n tion , but on entering the beautiful bay which the town is located , an enchanting landscape is t spread ou to View . Th e immediate vicinity is rich of with all kinds tropical vegetation , running far

a . b ck into the foothills Further on , overlooking of this , is a perpendicular ledge rock almost a thousand feet in height . It extends the entire

n a le gth of the island , with pinnacle after pinn cle rising in the air . They resemble the spires and minarets of a l a rge city .

The population is fifteen thousand . Nearly all a re are black . About three thousand of these f residents of the picturesque little town o the port . This island w a s not inhabited by any native race when England took possession of it . Afterwards people were brought from Africa by vessels of the

270 LIFE AND TRAVELS O F

a o f of the town are vast mount ins rock , destitute vegetation . The city is located about fi ve miles i inland . It is situated on a dry plain at the foot o f m ff al ost perpendicular blu s of volcanic rocks .

t e h It is a fine drive from h port to t e city . The road is good andmis lined with half- naked Arabs on foot , and ca els and donkey s heavily laden with all kinds of merchandise . Looking back from the highest point on the road , which is n a . reached by zigzags , the sight is a gr d one It is a moving panorama o f life . The city has a p o p l ti n u a o . of nearly thirty thousand , mostly black It is supplied with water from some ancient tanks that were built about the year 600. Aden is supposed to be a large crater formed of lofty , precipitous hills , of which the highest peak is o n e thousand seven hundred and seventy - fi ve feet in height . These slopemtoward the sea , with numerous spires , which for a series of valleys

m. o f radiating from a com on center The descent the rain water from these hills through numer o u s ravines converges into on e valley above the town , where tanks are located for the collection n ow and storage of water . There are thirteen in b use . Some are formed y a dyke , which is built across the valley , others , by being cut out of the rock . In fact, every feature of the rock has been taken advantage of and connected by small aque

n o t . ducts , so that water is los The overflow of on e tank has been conducted into the succeeding 2 1 JAMES BATCHELDER . 7

h as one ; thus a complete chain been formed , reach

ing to the town .

From there I went to Suez , passed th rough the Re d t o Sea and the Gulf of Suez , where our right i M a . s could be seen the historic t . Sin i This the mountain on which Moses is believed t o have re

i d . co m ce v e the commandments At Suez we

me n ce d o u r . jou rney througmh the canal We were piloted on the block syste , except in the great

lakes , where ships pass each other freely and steam

at full speed .

At every station there are signal posts , from

s t e a msl i i s th e sid which p are directed to go into s ing or into the canal a may be required . All l vesse s running at night have an electric proj ector , that throws light from twelve to fifteen hundred w a s t o s e e yards . It a grand sight Six or eight

great ships go on while we waited at a Siding . th e e n d Arriving at Port Said , at northern of

o n . the canal , I spent a few hours shore I had 1 3 w a s been here in 88 . It the first place I visited

on this trip that I had seen before . It had n o t a s changed . We were beset , formerly , by a h erd

of beggars o f all nations . Groups of i dle Arabs in theirmnative dress lounging about the streets , a few wo en in th eir dark blue gowns and veils ,

some camels and donkeys , are all that are to be f mo . re embered Port Said It was our last landing place until we reached f Ma rseilles . On this voyage we passed many o the 272 LIFE AND TRAVELS O F

beautiful islands of th e Mediterranean , which broke the monotony of the journey . On the day a after leaving Port Said , we ran along the co st of r Crete o Candia for some distance . On the morn ing of the third dav we passed through the Straits of Me ssin a w hi ch separate Italy from the island f i o . n Sicily The sce ery s grand . The run through h h t e . straits takes about t ree hours At our left , o f Si cil th e re on the island y , is a succession of ’ f ridges terminating near the water s edge in bluf s . Between these ridges are delightful little valleys

gradually Sloping down to the water, with numer ou s towns and hamlets nestling among luxuriant f n n f o a d . o groves ora ges , lemons , olives Back

th e of . E these rise black , volcanic dome Mt tna ,

ten thousand eight hundred and eighty feet high .

The whole forms a picture not soon to be forgotten . The city o f Messina lies alon g these straits in

full View . It w a s founded by the Greeks as a d colony nearly three thousan years ago , and is

still a flourishing port . It seems to spread itself along the Shore for miles . Old castles and towers top every eminence . They are flanked by strong modern forts and handsome buildings that rise one above another . The whole being backed by f a dark orest , gives the town a fine appearance

se a . from the After emerging from the straits , w e passed the Lipari Group of volcanic islands d se e From the domes of some I coul smoke rising , especially Stromboli . This is a round dome ris i ng from the sea in the shape of a sugar loaf.

X V C H A P T E R .

CONTINUATION O F SECOND TRI P AROUND THE WORLD

ILLES is the oldest city in Western

Europe . It was founded by the P h oe n i u eia s six hundred years before Christ . w as of six The city a republic , electing a council u w h o h ndred members , chose from among them

’ f n se l ve s fi te e rulers . They form ed several colo nies , and the city prospered . She was in the h eight of her glory at the time of Caesar . But having s ide s ai st himf i a ort fi taken g n , he destroyed the of cations , robbed her all her treasures and of all l e a m v so her colonies excepting Nice , g her weak that sh e fell an easy prey to the Goths and other n barbarians . She did not recover her great ess for e centuries . At the tim of the Crusades , the city was as rich and i mportant as in its early days . I In 1 660 Louis X V . succeeded in conquering it n o f and i n deprivi g it its ancient rights . He united it to France , so its independence was at an end . 5 JAMES BATCHELDER . 7 The city is Situated in the midst of a semicircle f of h a s a o mountains whitish rock . It beauti of ful harbor , in front which are several rocky is lands . The surrounding country is a dusty valley , which is carefully cultivated , being planted with vineyards and orchards of olive , fig , and pome ol d granate trees . Th e town is ugly but the new

- part is built of light colored stone . It has broad streets and fine sidewalks . Its population is Th e nearly six hundred thousand . city Slopes gradually upward from the harbor on t w o hills

v s a almost four hundred feet abo e the e . On the top of on e o f these stands t h e church of N ot-re

Dame . There is a high terrace in front of th is

I t a n d church . is ascended by several paths a n many steps , from which extensive View of the ci ty and country can be obtained . One can see the entire width of the valley and innumerable white villas on the s urrounding hills . In the opposite direction the View extends over t h e harbor and the barren group of islands

h a at its entrance , wit the Mediterrane n in the dis tance . The city contains fine museums , parks ,

‘ n a d zoological gardens .

o b From Marseilles I went t Nice y rail . The route is along the coast near the water . It is dotted with villages and summer residences and lined with cactus hedges . One sees on the way of numerous olive orchards , also gardens vio lets , cassia flowers , roses , and other fragrant blos 276 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

d . soms , which are manufacture into perfumery

n Nice is a charming place . It is situated o the e shores of the Mediterranean , and is celebrat d for its pure air and mild temperature . Fogs being mt h e unknown , thousands of people fro north of u n E rope gather here duri g the winter months .

There are many hotels for their accommodation .

From Nice I went to Monaco and Monte Ca rl o .

’

This is a delightful j aunt , thro ugh gardens and orange groves , past fields of almond trees in full bloom and hillsides covered with olives . To our t right, as far as the eye could reach , s retched the h blue Mediterranean , dotted with sails . A ead of o f t h e m us the maj estic masses Mariti e Alps , with

- their snow capped summits , could be seen . As w e o u r approached Monte Carlo , surroundings became more and more beautiful . The city lies o n a the side of a steep hill , with terrace after terr ce , fringed with maj estic palms and gardens glowing with flowers o f every color . This is an independent principality compris ing six square miles . It includes Monaco and

Monte Carlo . It is governed by Prince Charles , who has an elegant palace at Monaco . He has his o w n postal system and a standing army of about on e hundred men . He receives a large revenue from the gambli n g ca si n o e s at Monte of th Carlo . Monte Carlo is one e most beautiful of places I have ever seen . It is full hotels , casi noes , gardens , theaters , delightful walks and

278 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

built by the French . The b u il dii igs are mostly o f hewn stone , four and five stories high , with small iron balconies at ea ch floor .

This division has some fine parks , and a public square called La Place du Gou vernemen t . This

is m. is large , and fringed with aple trees There is a life - sized statue o f the Duke of Orleans in the

o n center . A military band plays to a great c course o f people of nearly every nation under the

’ s u n ! Arabs , Moors , Turks , Israelites in Moorish

a dress , Frenchmen , Italians , Spani rds . Moorish n wome with their faces covered to their eyes , and a mul titu de o f stra ngers from all parts of the n o w n world , each speaki g his language and dress ing according to his habit o r the custom of the country . The upper o r Arabian part is inhabited chie fl v o n of by Ara bs and Jews . It lies the side a steep hill rising behind the French town . The streets are very narrow and so steep th at carriages can

a re not be used on them . These streets j oined by many alleys j ust wide enough to pass through .

They are very confusing to the stranger , but a walk through this quarter was more interesting

mof o f . to e than any the sights modern Algiers Three Sundays are celebrated there in each week ! the Arabs keep Friday , the Jews Saturday , and th e French Sunday .

a s The city w founded in the tenth century , and until 1 81 6 it w a s a formidable stronghold of pi 2 9 JAMES BATCHELDER . 7

rates . Up to that time the Algerines were the terror o f the seas . They were especially dreaded on account o f their habit o f retaining in slavery all whom they captured in war . Since then a

m. great change has co e over the place The 1 830 n o w French seized the district in , and the town and its neighborhood has become a sanato

riu m. . for modern Europe It is a gay place Its cafes swarm with gaily uniformed officers . In front of these cafes are Singing girls dressed in h w ite , wearing full trousers gathered around th e ankle and Slippers without stockings . Its streets teem with the peasantry in their picturesque cos

t u me s . Donkeys laden with market produce pass and repass , followed by men in red caps and blue blouses , or maidens in their short skirts and sabots .

From Algiers I went to Ora n by rail . This ’ was a thirteen hours ride and full of interest . The road winds through o n e of the richest and most beautiful countries I have ever seen . It be n o f ing in the mo th May , the ground was carpeted with grass and wild flowers everywhere , and with th e blossomi n g fruit trees formed a charming pic ture . Oran has a population o f about one hundred and fifty thousand . It is a dull place , with not s e e much to that will interest anyone , so I took passage on the steamer for Malaga , in Spain . a s This city has about the same population Oran , it i and is very much like as far as s ght tse e i n g is concerned . They are both very old cities . 280 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

Malaga is situat ed on a delightful plain sur a al rounded by hills , which produce r isins , figs a l l monds , oranges , lemons , and limes , introduced 1 4 2 into Spain by the enterprising Moors before 9 . They occupied this place for about eight hundred years . m Fro Malaga I went to Gibraltar , the most strongly fortified place in the world . The city lies within the fortress , and when a stranger ar rives he must get a permit from the proper a u h riti hi t o e s . m The permit allows to stay only i M s at . until the first gun fired , eight P . , after his which time , if he wishes to prolong stay , his hi hotel manager gets s leave extended .

n w as . Whe I in Gibraltar, I visited its galleries These are tunnels and massive arches in the solid

rock . They are supported by columns and ex o f t o tend around the whole face it in w ranges . t h From these, at in ervals , Openings ave been blasted , through which peer the muzzles of guns .

The galleries are fully armed , and have large

m agazines attached to them . After obtaining permission from the a u th ori a ties , I proceeded to the old Moorish castle y rd and was conducted through the galleries by one of the gunners , who explained everything to me . The

rock is one thousand four hundred feet high , and h t e w . Vie from it is very extensive Two, seas and o f the famous Straits Gibraltar , bordered by two u s continents, are spread out to the View . Below

282 LIFE A N D TRAVELS OF caravans mof w eary animals which have arrived t he o f with enor ous loads from interior , strings little Barbary donkeys that have also brought u p A m heavy burdens , the rab usician , with his pipe

- s - and tom tom the snake charmer , the tory teller , w a ith circle of attentive listeners , women closely veiled Sitting in groups in the shade . Moorish soldiers with their blue cloaks a n d red caps form i a rare picture . One finds it d fli cu l t to wend his

way th rough the crowd . is l a s f Tangier a very o d town . It w a city o

importance before the time of the Romans . It is n ow the residen ce of the foreign representatives t o

the emperor . They are not permitted to enter

the capital . The city is built on two hills , near the o f ma n ifi western side a fine bay surrounded by g

m. cent ountains There are some picturesque o f ruins the Roman period near the town , but the i people of the place constitute ts chief attraction . All the houses are white and genera lly of only

one story , with no windows opening on the street . They are lighted by an open court on the inside ; Some of those o f the better classes are gorgeously

th e n . fitted up , furnishi g being of th e very best n of Here and there rise the tall mi arets a mosque ,

brilliant with its many colored mosaics . From

these mosques , when all else is calm and still , rises

the cry calling the faithful to pra yer . i s Fez , the capital of Morocco , situated in the

northern part of the empire . The government is 28 JAMES BATCHELDER . 3

an absolute monarchy , the emperor holding the destinies o f life and property in his own hands! am Nearly all of the Moors belong to the Moh

medan faith . They date from the time they claim

Mohammed took his flight t o heaven . By this 1 890 1 3 w a s 07 . reckoning , wh en I there , in , it was Leaving Tangier we sailed out through th e of Straits Gibraltar into the broad Atlantic , and ,

after a few hours , cast anchor at the harbor of

Cadiz , an attractive city delightfully situated . It is at the extreme end of a long peninsula which is joined to t h e continent o n th e south by a ve rv th n n arrow strip of land . Though e streets are ot n wide , they are lo g and very clean . Th e houses ,

which are high and bright colored , are crowned

with terraces having gl a ss and gilt balcon ies .

- The city has a population of Sixty fi ve thousand . It contains several public squares and fine prom n a . e de s The Alameda is a delightful one . It is

along the ramparts , which are built of granite with of a series spacious terraces . A military band

plays there every night during the summ er, and all the beauty of the city go out to walk along

d z i . s this promenade Ca e s very old . It w a cap tu re d by the Roman s t w o hundred and Six years

before the Christian era . At one time it was the

most important city in the world . It has few

obj ects of interest except the ladies . th e I went next to beautiful city of Seville ,

located on the Guadalquivir . This too is a very LIFE A N D TRAVELS O F o ld place . It w a s ta ken by Julius Caesar forty fi ve years before Christ and w a s afterwards a of favorite post the Romans . There are still many vestiges o f its magnificence and prosperity n of duri g th e Roman rule , viz . , a portion the walls and towers and the aqueduct . It is one o f the n most pleasant and interesti g cities in Spain . It has narrow , shady streets lined with high houses , having courts in the center , which contain foun tains , orange trees , and flowering plants . There a re - also plants on the house tops . The sight seer

' th e be a u tifu l ca th e dra l is detained by m, the picture a galleries , the museu s , the Alcaz r , and the to bacco factory . The Alcazar is a portion of the former Moorish e w a s palac , erected when Seville an independent I kingdom . t is very beautiful and h as since been occupied by Peter the Cruel , Ferdinand , Charles n V . . , and other Catholic ki gs It covers a large is n area and fla ked by great square towers , built n n mf of sto e brought from the a cient te ple o Her Th a n d cules . e grand court is ninety feet long

- seventy feet wide . There are twenty four arches opening into it . The floor is paved with beauti th e ful m a rble . On one side is recess where once on e n stood the Moorish throne . In of the wi gs w a s the private chapel o f Ferdinand and Isabella . It was in the Alcazar that Isabella gave audience t o Columbus . The walls and altar of this chapel are co n sidered the finest in Europe . It would be

286 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

w of which contains a orld wealth . It contains many beautiful paintings and statues executed by the old masters . The grandeur o f this church when the shades o f evening are falling is very impressive . mf h i The favorite pro enade o t e Se v l ia n s is the

n o f Delicias de Cristina , situated alo g the banks

. m the Guadalquivir It is divided by char ing walks and drives and contains horticultural and botanical gardens . The walks are planted with acacia , cypress , and other trees , under whose shade the beauty and fashion o f Seville do their flirting and star gazing , while the air is fragrant with roses and orange flowers . t o When I left Seville , I Went Granada , the ’ Moors Andal u sia . The route for the most part is through a wild and picturesque country . The city is attractively located . It is built upon four tw o hills , which rise to the height of thousand two

- hundred and forty fi ve feet . These hills are at the extremity of an extensive and beautiful plain , green with a l l kinds of fruit and vegetation . It is dotted with sparkling , whitewashed villas , that resemble so many sails . There is much in Gra

X . nada to interest a traveler, the palace of Charles , with its wonderful gardens , the cathedral , with its t h e royal tombs , old city streets , full of Moorish antiquity , and the Alhambra , or Moorish palace . The l a st is the most important a nd most interest ing . It towers above the town on a broad plateau 287 JAMES BATCHELDER .

i s su r upon th e highest of the four hills . It

h . rounded by beautiful gardens , w ich are woody In Spring they are full o f sweet - scented wild o f flowers , which numberless streams snow water from the Sierra Nevada Mountains keep green and of blooming . The woods these gardens are of a

- heavy growth ; the deep ravines , well built roads , and bridal paths twisting in all directions , make a most ch a rming resort in the sultry hours of summer . ’ I will speak of only som e o f the Alhambra s a most important features . It w s built by the Moors during their reign of nearly eight hundred years in Spain . It was used by them as a palace and mosque until th ey were driven from Spain 4 by Ferdinand and Isabella in 1 92. After that n it w a s occupied by the Catholic ki gs . It is beau if l l t u y ornamented with sculpture a n d carvings . h a l l s It is divided into , courts , recesses , balconies , and a throne room . These are ornamented with o f inlaid work blue and gold , made in circles , h crowns , and stars , interwoven wit flowers and

leaves . The court of lions is the most celebrated

portion of the p a lace . It is an oblong of one

- hundred and twenty six feet in length , seventy

- t w o . three in width , and twenty feet in height It is l o w u surrounded by a gallery , which is s pported

! - t m on one hundred and twenty eight whi e arble

columns . A pavilion projects into the court at h m eac extremity , elaborately orna ented , having 288 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

walls of filigree work . In the center of this court th e . ma is famous fountain of lions This is a g n ifi ce n t alabaster basin resting on t h e backs of f twelve lions o white marble . Their manes are cut f fi h like the scales o a s . All through the E ast the lion is an emblem of strength and courage . It was in the hall of the amb a ssadors here that Columbus made his arrange ments with the court of Spain to start o n his voy

o f t h e a age discovery of Americ . I went to the top of the watch to w er in the

w h e i e Alhambra grounds , an extensive view can be obtained of the city and s u r i o u n ding country

At my feet was the city , while beyond it the plain stretches for thirty miles to the base of the Sierra

I s Nevada Mountains . This plain full of points of historical interest , which are pointed out by the guide . I w a s Shown the place where Ferdinand and Isabella pitched their camp during the conquest o f Granada . It was across this plain that the w a Moors took their melancholy y , and from the summit o f a distant hill turned to gaze for the last time at the scene of so much grandeur and glory . This hill still bears the name of the Last

Sigh of the Moor .

’ F romG ran ada I went to Cordova , another city a s on the Guadalquivir . It w held by the Moors h s from 756 to 1 236 . It a a population of nearly b i s fifty thousand . It is dull now , ut t i said that

290 LI F E A N D TRA VELS O F

f n mer . The varieties o uniforms glowi g in parts of the park among the glittering multitude render the scene exceptionally gorgeous . The Prado i s another fi n e drive two and a half miles in length , with profuse foliage , fountains , f a . o flowers , and fine statu ry It has monuments

a n d . m Columbus Isabella It is also a pro enade , and the best place in Madrid t o see the beauty of the city . The women of Spain are noted for their beauty and grace . One who visits this Spot will s e e all classes , from the aristocrat to the peasant , h w o have come for a short time to th e capital . They saunter out in swarms and form a pro ce s u s sion . Many of the women e mantillas as head dresses for street wear, but the custom among fashionable ladies is fast changing in favor of the

Parisian hat . or The stranger may join the strollers , for a penny is allowed to occupy one of the thousand seats that are placed along the edge of the prome hi s . nade , and observe the crowd at ease

The Plaza Mayor is lovely . It is where the tri bunal of the Inquisition w a s hel d in olden times .

When the victims had been condemned , they were led ou t of the city to the fateful place of ex e cu tion and burned at the stake . It is believed that not fewer than half a million of the best peo ple of Spain met their death in this manner dur ing th e Inquisition . The Puerta del Sol (the Path of the Sun) is the 91 JAMES BATCHELDER. M chief square in adrid . It is in the heart of th e the w city , and is central point , hence all the prin cipal streets and tramways diverge . Here one i sees outdoor life in all ts glory . The royal pal n n ace is an imme se pile of buildi gs , which , includ

it s . ing garden , occupies nearly eight acres

From Madrid I went to Bordeaux , in France, and thence to Paris . In crossing the frontier of every country of Europe the trai n is delayed nearly an hour ; ou r baggage is taken into the station and laid o n a long counter to be opened is for inspection , after which it replaced on the

w e . train , and are allowed to proceed ’ of Spain is out the tourists beaten track , and is not visited by many ; but, according to my idea , there is more fascination in a trip to Spain than i to any other European country . The land s f beautiful ; the habits o its people are strange . There is not much to se e along this route that an artist would be likely to Sketch or a traveler to remember. In leaving Spain w e crossed the Pyrenees

Mountains , from whose summit we could look down upon both coun tries . In the descent the is country undulating , with peaceful villages here

an d . n th ere Next , lo g stretches of unbroken me t plain covered with pine trees are , then in a few hours Bordeaux is reached . is This a large city , charmingly situated on th e banks of the Garonne, seventy miles inland . It 292 LI F E A N D TRAVELS OF is a large Shipping port crowded with vessels from every part of the world . It has also a l arge wine

. e industry There is not much to detain a strang r, s o i I left for Par s .

h a d I been in Paris seven years before . Almost the only thing I could discover that I had n o t f seen before was the Eif el Tower , which had been built in the meantime . It stands on the bank of the Seine one thousand feet high and three hun dred feet square at the base . At each corner there are pillars fifty feet square of iron lattice work supported by open curved arches slanting inward as they rise to a distance of six hundred i . s m feet from the ground From this point four il a r pillars continue to the t op . There are several large assembly rooms at different heights . The first of these is an immense hall tw o hundred and h i s thirty feet from t e base . It used as a prome nade and restaurant . Still further up is a second gallery nearly one hundred feet square . This w a s the highest point I reached , and from it an n f extensive pa orama is Spread out be ore the eye . i ts i nn u me ra w Just belo lies the great city , with it s a n d ble monuments , avenues , towers , domes , with the Seine winding through it like a long

n o f ribbon of steel . Farther o the green circle hills which surround the city is in plain view . The whole forms a picture of incomparable love i l n e ss .

w re Later I went to Ant erp , in Belgium , and

294 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF n l etwork of cana s and bridges , also houses , ships , and people . The canals are all bordered w ith

a elm trees , which give them a refreshing ppear ance . The bridge across the Amstel is a fi n e

- fi ve s. structure , with thirty stone arche The city m’ a I has fa ous botanic l and zoological gardens . t s

. museums and art galleries , are excellent The royal palace is the finest building . It is situated on the Dam , one of th e largest squares in that place . The interior is elegant ; it s banquet room

ar i n h u n is one of the l gest in Europe . It s o e

dred and twenty feet long , sixty feet broad , and n e o hundred feet high . The industry of diamond cutti n g is carried on quite extensively and supplies work to ten thou n sand artisans . There are many short excursio s o f m interest that can be made fro Amsterdam . Some of these places are off th e ordinary line of so travel , and changes have not come , the genuine ol d - fashioned style of living is still to be seen in

of t h e se a n them . I made one to the island of M rke ,

Zu d r m. e in the y Zee , thirty miles from A sterdam n u s It is inhabited by fisherme . They e implements and wear costumes which have retained the same

styles for ages . On account of the picturesqueness

of their dress , Marken has become a sort of show

place . w a s My next stopping place Hamburg , situated o n the lower Elbe , and having a population of four hundred thousa nd . It has a commodious JAMES BATCHELDER . 95

n u harbor, where umerous ships from all q arters Th e n of the globe lie . quays stretch alo g th e

Elbe for a distance of five miles . Hamburg is mf o comparatively a odern city , on account the 1 842 de st rov e d fire in , which a quarter of the a buildings . Since then very extensive dditions and alterations in some of the quaintest streets of the city have been carried out . T his accounts for its thorou gh ly new aspect and for the a l most entire disappearance of all relics of the past . There are , however , still m any h andsome residen ces of merchants of the seventeenth a n d eighteenth centuries . The city has many pleas ant promenades , gardens , and much fine statuary .

The environs of Hamburg are delightful , being sprinkled with country houses , gardens , and parks in every direction . h a d m When I completed my Visit at Ha burg ,

I went to Copenhagen . The route is by rail t o

Keil , thence by steamer to Korsor , Zealand , where a connection is made with the direct train to

. n i Copenhagen . It is a lovely ride The cou try s rf l v u pe e ct level . Highly c ltivated wheat fields and immense dairies abound . At intervals quaint cottages with their small patches o f well kept gardens are to be seen . o f Copenhagen , the capital Denmark , is situated on the island of Zealand . It has a population of three hundred and fifty thousand . It is one of n the clea est and prettiest cities in Europe . It is 296 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

n h a u called the Athe s of the Nort , on cco nt of its f advanced state o art and literature . Its parks and gardens a re not excelled anywhere in Eu I t rope . abounds in museums , theaters , an d art galleries . The Tivoli Garden is its most charm of ing place resort ; it is very large , and con l tains a lake , upon whose waters are severa small u u a n d boats sed by pleas re seekers , moored to its fe shore is a large ship used as a ca . This Ship is tastefully decorated and is usually filled with a n gay thro g . There are also within the gardens r si x five o concert pavilions . Besides other at of tractions , there is a structure made wood in the n form of a beer bottle . It is o e hundred feet high and people go to the t op of it in an elevator . The cage holds eight perso n s ; wh en it reaches the ’

s . top of the bottle s neck , it form the cork h u Wit in the city are several canals , fo r large lakes , and many small ones . There are also springs which continually give forth most excel n l a . lent water . The city is laid out on gra d sca e u The wide , windming aven es are bordered wmith beech trees . So e of these avenues have a pro e n a de in the center wide enough for eight perso n s to walk abreast . On either side is a Space eight w is feet ide for equestrians , and there still romom for four car tracks on both Sides . Then co es d the Sidewalk . Near the mid le of the city is a ’ N e w large irregular space called King s Market , from which thirteen of the business streets radiate

298 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

u b s me the deepest purple , y which the pastures form a striking contrast with their soft green . fi o rd All along the are numerous villas , whither at this sea son of the year the inhabitants of Chris ’ tia nia Ch risti n i i . a a s take their families pretty , and is pleasantly situated at the north end of the Chris tia n ia . h a s Fiord It is the capital of Norway , and n n about one hu dred and fifty thousand inhabita ts . It is noted for the grandeur and beauty of its su r a s roundings , well as for the size and elegance of its streets and public buildings . The most note

worthy of its edifices are the Royal Palace , the

University , and the House of Parliament . The Royal Palace is Situated o n an eminence in the western part of the city . The grounds are nicely laid out and command an excellent view d fi o r . of the town , the , and its numerous islands

These grounds are very extensive , with Shady h walks and seats open to t e public . Many pleas u rabl e excursions can be made in the suburbs . ’ - . ou t One is to St John s Hill , an attractively laid

eminence two h undred and eighty feet high . There is a reservoir o n it s summit belonging to

the city water works . An ornamental structure , for l with a lofty tower which is visible mi es , is e n built upon it . From the top of this is a most of chanting panorama mountains , trees , water ,

and buildings , which unite in making a grand masterpiece o f art and nature that would be diffi

c u lt to describe adequ ately . JAMES BATCHELDER . 99

ma Another pleasant ramble which I ade w s to ’ w a s Oscar s Hall , a chateau which erected for

Oscar I . as a holiday residence about forty years

a o . g The mansion , being painted white and being on of situated an eminence eighty feet in height , may be seen for miles . It is surrounded by a pl easant park . The interior of th e castle is noted for choice paintings , th e works of celebrated Nor i of w e g a n artists . There is a series paintings in the dining room , ten in number , representing the stages in life from childhood to old age . There are also some fine ol d carvings . One large cabi i n 1 3 6 m. net made 7 must be of im ense value of There are quantities curiosities , but space for bids a detailed description . Near this palace is an ancient church with high wooden columns stenciled in a peculiar manner .

It has carved trusses supporting the roof. About

l - the church are a number of o w built houses . Inside of these can be seen the furniture and arti cles for domestic purposes that were used two or — thre e hundred years ago wooden j ugs , punch bowls , bedsteads , and a variety of skin clothing . of While I was in Christiania , Emperor William ,

Germany , arrived with a fleet of ten line of battle ships and two steam y a chts . A grand display was made when they sailed into the harbor .

First cam e four Norwegian torpedo boats , as if to

w a w n o f clear the y, Follo i g these were two lines battle ships a few hundred yards apart . Around 300 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

these were more than sixty steamboats , all gaily decorated with evergreens and bunting , laden with pas sengers w h o had gone ou t to meet the

Kaiser . The entire length of the quays w a s lined with a most ordinary a ssemblage of people dressed in their best . A tasteful pavilion h a d been erected near the landing place . It was adorned with gigantic German eagles in gold and be a u tifi e d with flowers n and greens . The streets alo g the route t o th e royal palace were likewise decorated and crowded with people .

n w a n d a o Soon Ki g Oscar, of Nor ay Sweden ,

th e companied by th e emperor, rode past in cou rt carriage , drawn by six beautiful black horses . h There were ot er carriages , drawn by splendid of t s teams four, filled with cour official and other officers in brilliant uniforms . They passed amidst the thundering o f cannon a n d the cheers of the

f n o f n multitude . It seemed di fi cult to thi k anythi g th ma n d e n equaling e enthusias of the people the ’ a s tire success of the day s pageant . It w a general o f holiday, the shops and other houses business i w a s w be ng closed . The city crowded ith Visitors from the country . The gay dresses of the peas is ants are very striking . The h eaddress usually black with red binding and t w o bright - colored t of ribbons behind . The jacke s are the Garibaldi style , with what I think the ladies call bishop

is . sl eeves . A handkerchief worn around the neck

A N T O F LIFE D. RAVELS

The city has many historical monuments and u m seums , as well as very extensive collections of n art works . The parks are noteworthy o a ccou ri t of their monuments , fountains , choice trees , shrubs , and flowers . Bands play in many of them dur f h ing the summer months . Under the shade o t e trees are seats and tables for the hundred s w h o take refreshments there . of is One the great sights a church , which is the royal mausoleum . It has not been used for di

1 l it e ra l l v vine service since 807 . The floor is paved with memorials of the illustrious heroes and statesmen of the past . Here repose the mor tal remains of the much - honored Gustavus Adol hu s p , the champion of the Lutheran Protestant

‘

Church . The following is the inscription on the “ a ! Sl b He braved dangers , loved piety , overcame his enemies , enlarged his dominion , exalted his ! nation , and triumphed in death .

The country in the vicinity is very picturesque .

Surrounding the city is an immense fertile plain , a diversified by dark forests , wh ich contr st with the bright green meado w s and the yellow stubble of the fields . The forests in the distance form n a majestic setting to this gay living picture . I h s whic ever direction the eye turn , no matter what the elevation may be , the horizon is mysterious with the ocean or the woods . One can leave the quays in any of the countless little steamboats , and in ten minutes be able to stand where he can 3 3 JAMES BATCHELDER . 0

scarcely find a trace of cultivation , but probably some old tower in the woods will testify to the n presence of an a cient royal hunting lodge .

On leaving Stockholm I went to St . Petersburg by steamer . It is an interesting journey and takes three days . From the time w e left Stock w e holm until Helsingfors was reached , were among a multitude of islands ; first , those that A l e n ds . are near the coast of Sweden , then the After leaving th ese we were soon among those that line the coast of Finland . The A l e n d Islands h number about t ree hundred . Some of them are r inhabited . The othe s are desolate and rocky , upon which are a few pine trees . w as a Our first landing place at Abo , in Finl nd . This is a town of considerable importance and Th was the ancient capital of Finland . e Russian Government has now moved the capital t o Hel f singfo rs . From Abo the steamer runs o r miles along a rocky Shore . A few hours before arriving at Helsingfors we passed through a strait seven miles long . In most places it is no wider than a canal , and its shores are edged with fir , birch , and w e alder . Between these trees catch glimpses of fertile fields and pretty farmhouses painted red or yellow . After leaving this strait we came into a broad

o f bay , at the extremity of which lies the city r Th e He l si ngsfo s . View on nearing th is city is th e t e is a i lovely . To lef ther suburb of p ct u r 304 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

o n esque villas grouped a rocky height, while at se a the right a neck of land j uts into the , on which are some handsome buildings . Farther o n is the

Greek Church , which is very imposing . It stands on a hill and is built of brick in t h e usual style h . a s of Greek Churches It a large gilt dome , sur a mounted by Greek cross , and surrounded by thirteen smaller domes , which are also of gilt . i s The roof painted white , which gives the build ing the appearance of having been Visited by a snowstorm .

Still farther on is the tower , with its row of white and yellow buildings , bright and clean , running t h along the quays . These quays command e ad i i n mrat o se . of all who e them There is a great variety of races and languages amongst the inhabitants of this city . It is most striking at the market place, where business brings them together . There are Swedish fishermen in their sailor clothes , Finns with their short cloaks , n Russian soldiers wearing lo g gray overcoats , and many are in the peasant style of dress of the last century . w e The next place visited was Wiborg , one of a the chief towns of Finland . It w s taken from 1 71 0 the Swedes by Peter the Great in , Since which time it has belonged to Russia . The town contains twenty thousand inhabitants besides five thousand soldiers . It is Spread over a wide plain and surrounded by rivers and canals .

XV C H A P T E R I .

O F THE CONCLUSION SECmOND TRIP AROUND WORLD . HE Govern ent of Russia being a n abso

lute monarchy , all power emanates from

the czar . He has no advisers and e xe r cises complete control over the lives and property of his subj ects . Of course the visitor sees but little of the yoke that the country is under . Pass ports are a matter of first importance to the trav eler in Russia , not because people are halted on the street to Show their passports , nor because the police line the streets and are waiting for strangers at every corner , as is currently supposed , is o r o f but it impossible to get in out Russia , or o n e h to obtain food or lodging when is there , wit h ou t them . The police know very well t at strangers have their passports or they would not be in Russia . I procured mine at Washington , and before leaving Stockholm h a d it vised by the

n . Russian Co sul . Long before reaching St Peters burg the captain takes the passport and holds it (306) JAMES BATCHELDER . 307

'I i ofii rs . t s until the Russian . ce come on board mt o t h taken by the and turned over e police t h . e bureau at the pier in St Petersbu rg , where

a a b ggage is ex mined . The traveler p a sses through the bureau and receives the pass again . t h e w h o It is given tmo hotel proprietor , seems t o be in some easure responsible for his guests .

a n d The visitor is then permitted to register , the number of his room is written on his passport . It is next sent to the police headquarters and re tu rned in a day or two . One is obliged to pay a

a sm ll fee when he receives it again . If the police a re not satisfied with the passport , they will send t for the Visi or , question him closely , and permit h imt o r n h hi s o stay o t as t ey are impressed with h i s story and appearance . If one wishes to change room or hotel , he must notify the police and state what change has been m a de . It will thus be seen that th e police know where every stran ger in

c n a n . m Russia a be found at y time The sa e formalities must be observed with rega rd to the

o n e h hotels in every town of Russia . Wmhen wis es to leave the country , permission ust be obtained from the police at the town where the passports n were last ha ded in . Even the inhabitants are n ot allowed to go more than fifteen miles from home without a permit from the police . h a of . t e St Petersburg , modern capit l Russia , h a s a. population of about a million . It was 1 703 founded by Peter the Great in , amid th e 308 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF marshes though which the Neva River discharges its waters into the se a . It is the strangest place

f r ever chosen o a city . The obstinate will of this man sought to dispense with all natural a dv a n tages . It is said he sel ected it as being a window looking out upon Europe . But surely a site might have been found with as good an outlook which would be a less desolate and fatal position . Between forty and fifty thousand peasants were forced to work for many years before a firm foun f r mn o dation the city could be co pleted . Duri g this time every conveyance approaching the city , se a w a s u whether by or land , req ired to bring a certain number of stone to be used in filling u p h the holes and paving t e streets .

There are severa l beautiful palaces in St . Peters burg , belonging to the royal families . The most o f im important is the Winter palace , a vast pile posing buildings Situated on the banks of the

Neva . The interior is divided into suites of splen n did halls , audience chambers , drawi g rooms , etc . The walls and ceilings are brilliantly ornamented with gold and silver , and are in some instances n s e t with precious stones . The walls are also hu g w ith beautiful oil paintings , representing battle n scenes , executed by the best artists , includi g

of ol d . some the masters All this , with the plate of beaten gold , which has belonged to the em p e rors from Peter the Great to the o n e of the present , the marbles , malachites , vases , and gilt

31 0 mLIF E AND TRAVELS O F itsmfor and the costliness of its material . Its di ensions are vast . The vestibule , hall , and

marble staircase are grand . Every pillar a n d

monolith are of Finland granite . The picture

a gallery equals in extent the l rgest in Europe , and contains pictures by Rubens , Van Dyck , Murillo , l o d . Raphael , Titian , and other of the masters

m- There are nu erous pieces of beautiful statu M ary by Michael Angelo and others . y limited space will not allow me to speak o f the thousands of interesting obj ects which help to form the col lection at the Hermitage . This accum u lation a can compare in variety , Size , and v lue with any other in the world . In Russia religion governs the whole life as

t he a well as he rt of the popular classes , and holds sway at least over the exterior h a bits of the upper ho w classes . They all , cross th eir breasts , some times kneel and kiss the pavement when they pass any of the many chapels that are to be found along the public thoroughfares . In many cases on l v n religion appears to be a u iform , but all

I t . wear it , for etiquette requires ’ m One of St . Petersburg s ost beautiful churches ’

a . is St . Isaac s C thedral An idea of its proportions ' ma i s kn o w n and cost y be formed when it that o f h the foundation , partly because the mars y na

on t ture of the soil which it is buil , cost more than a million dollars . Its form is that of a Greek cross with four principal entrances . It is a colos 3 1 1 JAMES BATCHELDER .

. h as sal building , of granite, marble , and gold It O an immense cupola of opper overlaid with gold , which is supported by thirty v e r v large pillars of polished granite . From the sum mit of this rises a sm a ller cupola of the same design surmounted is by a large cross . The larger cupola s urrounded l by fo u r similar sma ler ones .

The steps are of porphyry , the walls of lapis la

zuli ; the floor is variegated marble , and the dome

m. m is ade of malachite All this is agnificently u is gilded . Everything in this elegant struct re

made of the most costly material . Distributed through the church are images of the Virgin and l n . ma of many saints There are a so v small

shrines , before which are silver stands covered

with tapers that are constantly burning . Streams of worshipers cross themselves over the breast

with the thumb and two fingers of the right hand ,

bow the knee , touch the floor with their foreheads , n and then pass o to make room for others . At

the back of the church is a very tall windo w . On it is painted Christ enthroned in gold and h a s . purple , his right and raised if in benediction There are numerous huge garlands of gilded a n of gels , and a wealth all kinds of ornaments, that glitter magnificen tly in the dim light of the inte

rior . Another of these fine churches is the Cathedral de dict at e d Ka of St . Petersburg , to Our Lady of

n . za . This is also built in the form of a cross 3 1 2 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

This b u ilding cost Inside is a col o n n a de fi ft - of y six columns , which support a of f . mo cupola Finland granite The i age Our

Lady of Kazan w a s placed in this church in 1 821 . I t It had been brought from Kazan . is covered

with j ewel s . One of the diamonds in her crown is of fabulous value . It has also an immense sapphire . As the Greek religion does not permit h th e idols in its places of wors ip , votaries adorn their Madonn a s and other holy pictures with jew

l r e y and finery . The cathedral resembles an arsenal more than a place of worship . Military trophies taken from various nations in Europe are hung on every side .

One sees Turkish standards , French colors , and the keys of surrendered cities . mof Space per its me to speak only one more of an d of . these churches . The Cathedral St Peter

1 703 . St . Paul was founded by Peter the Great in It contains the mortal remains of all th e emper ors and empresses of Russia from Peter the Great to the late emperor , with the exception of Peter w h o the Second , died in Moscow and was buried there . The Side aisles are taken up with white marble tombs that mark the Sites of the graves . All are adorned with gold crosses , gold corners , and splendid funeral accessories , and surrounded by pal m trees and other growing plants and flowers that bloom in th e faint light o f innumerable

3 1 4 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

Peter is regarded as a saint by the populace ; indeed , all the Russian emperors are looked upon n by the peasantry as more tha human , but Peter is the most revered of all . Everything which h a s belonged to him is kept with superstitious venera tion . The furniture in this building is o f his

n . own maki g The tools with which he worked , a boat that he made , and some books are shown to B the Visitor . u t the chief collection of his me mi l or a s is in a ga l l e r v of the Hermitage called P e ’

. i s ter the Great s Gallery It of great interest . The N e vskoi Prospekt is the principal street in

r the city and is the pride of e ve v patriotic Russian . P The entire characteristic movement of St . e t e rsb u rg may be seen o n this highway -the a tramways , strings of c rts laden with goods , multitudinous common droskies , which look like toy carriages , the finer private droskies , drawn by

Splendid trotters , the throngs of Silent foot pas se n e rs fi g , civil servants , of cers in long gray over o f w coats , women the lo er classes wearing short dresses of pale green and gaily embroidered handkerchiefs on their heads , ladies in Parisian ol d w h o toilets , h ere and there queer women seem to have seen better days and who now console a s n themselves by smoking cigarettes , they lou ge

s u n w h o in the , street hawkers , sell kvas and other a drinks , fruit , and flowers , nursemaids we ring the coiffi e re o f national costume and , a sort of tiara blue or red velvet embroidered with large pearl 31 JAMES BA TOHELDER. 5

beads , priests in long flowing black gowns and tall brimless hats , sometimes covered with a veil ,

Circassians with their long coats , the breasts of

a n d which aremstiff with cartridges , a patrol of Cossacks a bling along on their little horses , with their hay nets slung from their saddles . There is no other place in the city where such a variety of people and costumes may be seen a s o n this street , but the most noticeable feature of a Russian street is a vehicle called drosky , a little carriage that flies about in every direction .

The fare is cheap and every lady rides . The minute you issue from your hotel or stop for a o n d second the sidewalk , a dozen droskies will ash f up , the drivers will of er their services and ges ti cu l a t e with their right hand . i s There nothing like it in any other country .

It is a very low , small open carriage , having four wheels . The hind ones are not more than two . and a half feet in diameter and the forward ones n about eightee inches . There is a raised seat for th e driver and an other that will hold two passen gers . It has no support for the back and generally on e has nothing to protect from the weather, though at Moscow covered droskies are n o t u n

n . commo Over the wheels are splashboards , which curve down and form a step only a few inches from the ground . The carriage i s always of a dark color and the seat is covered with dark cloth . The shafts are 3 1 6 LI FE A N D TRAVELS O F atta ched directly to the front axle and fa stened to the coll a r by means of straps wound around and '

. n around , without rings or buckles There are o i traces . The harness s as light as possible and is adorn ed with fine chains and other ornaments that glitter in the sun like gold or silver spangles . The coa clnn a n is as peculiar as the vehicle h e

- h d . a t rives He wears a low crowned felt , th at on narrows down toward the brim , is curled the sides , and is curved back and front , and a dark blue o r cafta n w ith n n green , lo g plaited skirts reachi g to th e ground . This caftan is wrapped around the body and fastened under the left arm by hooks and eyes or buttons .

. m While I was in St Petersburg I ade a tour of the islands , a great place of resort . There are four or fi ve close to one another in the mouth of

‘ n the Neva . They are intersected by ca als and small lakes and connected by bridges . They are all perfectly fl at a n d a re laid out in parks and

o f villas . The constant interchange land and water is rather bewildering . One does n ot know n a n d when an isla d is passed another is reached . Th ey a re the pride and delight of tmhe city . Several nice excu rsions may be ade from St . n on e Petersburg . The most interesti g that I

rh ff made w as to P e t e o . A palace is there built by Peter the Great . It is Situated on an eminence overlooking a green plain of tree tops . Beyond of are the waters of the Gulf Finland , the port and fortification of Cronstadt .

3 1 8 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

try along the route very monotonous . Hour after o n e hour sees broad plains , which extend far into o f the distance , with occasionally a forest pine and silver birch , and at very rare intervals a village composed of a score of cottages built of logs and l surrounded by poor y tilled fields . The fields are w cultivated by swarms of peasant omen , dressed in red shirts and wearing brigh t handkerchiefs n on their heads . It is said that there is ot a mountain in this part of Russia . The highest land between the Baltic and t h e Black Seas is o n ly one thou sand three hundred and twenty eight feet above the se a . The first Vie w as one approaches Moscow p ro duces an impression n ever to be forgotten . The

m- nu berless steeple points , star Spangled belfries , w airy turrets , strangely shaped to ers of palaces

of and old convents , attract the eye , while the Th . e edifices themselves remain concealed city , h a s formerly the capital of the Russian Empire , a population of about eight hundred thousand . M It is situated on the banks of the oskva River , of which contributes its water, by the Channel

V . Oka , to the great olga It was founded in 1 1 47 and w a s one of the most t h e w a s irregular cities in world , but it all de stroyed except the Kremlin by the con fl ag ration 2 of 1 81 . The Kremlin suffered severely after wards from th e mines that were sprun g under its n walls by order of Napoleo , on its evacuation by 3 1 9 JAMES BATCHELDER .

h a s the French . But it been completely restored , and Mosco w h as risen from her ashes larger and more beautiful than before .

Th e Kremlin stands in the heart of the city . of Its inclosure is two miles in circuit . Most the interesting as well as the his torical spectacles of

Moscow are to be seen within its walls . It is the treasury of nearly all that is dear to the Russian i w . s heart It cro ded with palaces , churches , mon aste ri e s u n , arsenals , m seums , and other buildi gs of almost every imaginable kind The Tartar style of architecture , with gilded domes and cupo las , generally predominates . There are round ,

- square , and pointed roofed towers , belfries , turrets , spires , sentry boxes , fixed upon minarets , domes , fortifi ca walls pierced with loopholes , ramparts , tions of every species , and steeples of every height ,

. a style , and color The ggregate forms a most

th e agreeable pimcture when seen from distance . The Kre lin is entered by five gates . The most important two are the Redeemer ’s and the ’

. n St . Nicholas Each of these has a traditio . A pictu re of the Saviour has been hung over the of first since the foundation the city . It is an of object the greatest reverence to every Russian , and neither the emperor nor the humblest peas ant would dare to pass under it without removing h f . T e o his hat outriders splendid equipages , the bearers of dispatches w h o rush throu gh on mat ters of life or death , all remove their hats and 3 20 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF hold them until they pass through to th e oth er h side , and visitors must do the same else t ey will d be spee ily reminded of their mistake . Tradition Says that when th e French a rmy w a s 1 81 2 t o r m‘ h e o ve t e there in , thmey tried picture , thinking the fra e was of solid gold ; but every ladder they placed against the w a ll fell broken in t w o . Next an attempt w as made to batter the wall and picture with cannon , but the powder would not ignite . After that fires were built t o under the gun , which caused it burst backward into a thousand pieces and to woun d the artillery men ; still the pictu re was unharmed . h ’ t e . s Near St Nichola , Napoleon s powder train exploded t o o ; although many of the surrounding buildings were completely destroyed and the tower w a s o f split up to the picture the saint , neither the glass that covered it n or the lamp that hung s before it w a inj ured in the least . The palace within th e Kremlin is built on the ol d site of the Tartar palace , and presents an odd mixture of the styles of architecture of the differ

. a n . ent periods The interior , however , is m gnifice t a s as It is sumptuous Russian architects , decora

u . tors , and pholsterers could make it i n mu The treasury s o e of the most wonderful f se u ms . o in the world It is the depository the v enerated historical objects which are hereditary c n in th e imperial families . The collection o ar s c u sists of regalia , arms , armor , c riage , ost mes ,

322 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

n The churches are all very grand , bei g beauti fully decorated inside and out , but I will attempt to describe only a few of them . Outside of th e Kremlin walls stands the Cathe

. i dral of St Basil , the Beautiful . Russ an churches f al l are much alike , but this dif ers from the others that I have seen . It has at least twenty domes of ff and towers , which are not only di erent shapes and sizes , but they are gilded and painted in all possible varieties of color . There is no main chapel . Each dome has a separate place of wor u ship , where services may be carried on witho t

- I s disturbin g the worshiper in any other . t w a erected by John t he Terrible . It is said that he w as well pleased with the skill of the Italian a nd his architect , , after eulogizing work , ordered t his o ut n hat eyes be put , to preve t him from planning another . Within the Kremlin is the Cathedral of the u on e Ass mption , of the most interesting of Rus ’ sia s Christian monuments . All the emperors n have been crowned in this church . The coro a

. m tion is said to be a grand Sight A ong the numerous relics and obj ects of interest behind the a ltar screen is a model in gold of Mt . Sinai . A is golden coffin containing the host within , and on the lid is an engraving of Moses sta nding o n the top of the mountain , bearing in his hands the tablets of the law . There is an immense Bible which wa s presented to the cathedra l . by the 3 23 JAMES BATCHELDER .

f h v mother o Peter t e Great . Th e binding is co

! ered with emeralds and other precious stones , mof which cost ore than a million dollars There are five rows of pictures on the walls , representing h s aints and the Virgin . They are bedecked wit a breastplates , necklaces , and br celets , literally ablaze with diamonds , emeralds , amethysts , pearls , sapphires , turquoise , and rubies . Add to this the magnificen ce of the silver and vermilion lusters n m hangi g fro themceiling , the profusion of burn ing tapers and la ps , suspended from gilt brack an d ets glimmering before every holy image , cast ing r eflections over the multitude of militant of archangels , and the brilliancy the interior of this cathedral passes all conception . The cathedral of t he Archangel Michael is another gra nd ch u rch . It is noted for being the last resting place of all the czars , to the time of

Peter the Great . The interior is adorned with

r gold and precious stones . The vestments a e i gorgeous and costly . The gospels are finely l l min u a te d , and have an enameled gold cover studded with precious stones . There is a cross

- here having remarkably large Sized pearls , which belonged to John the Terrible . Many of the treas ures in these churches are exhibited only to male visitors . The Cathedral of th e Annunciation is beauti

u . f lly decorated The floor is paved with agate ,

as e r a n d . j p , carnelian The frescoes are most curi 324 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

s ous ; they represent Greekphilosophers , as herald ’ of Christ s coming . The former czars were bap ti ze d h and married in this church . It is ric in l saint y relics , and has among its obje cts of inter e st a paintin g of the meeti n g of the blessed and a s con demned spirits . It w used by the French 1 1 2 as a stable for their horses in 8 . The great riding school of Moscow is celebrated as being the largest room in the world , whose roof is unsupported by pillar or prop . Two regi ments of cavalry are able to go through al l their maneuvers and evolutions in this vast room . The bou levards around the Kremlin are very h wide ; they are planted wit shade trees, and have

h . u numerous benc es In the s burbs trees , gar

u . dens , and parks abo nd During my visit at Moscow I made an excur sion to the Sparrow Hills , a slight eminence a few miles from the city , and the first point from which hi e n Napoleon with s army saw Mosco w . The n tire ridge is laid out in gardens , which contai e sum booths , restaurants , caf s , and a pretty little mer theater . It was here that Napoleon , in sight of the blazing city , dictated th e intelligence of the n i n is co fl agrat o to France . This a favorite sum mer evening resort for th e Mosco w people . The whole city outside of the Kremlin presents such a vast empty aspect that it seems to have been built in expectation of some future populatio n rather th an to meet the pre se n t w an t s ; but the many

3 26 , LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

th e w a s n Buda , older part , an a cient Roman

. colony Pesth , a modern city , has wide streets ,

s. pleasant promenades, and magnificent edifice There is a beautiful suspension bridge over the

Danube . The t w o cities are connected by a good iron bridge . There are also numbers of ferry boats which ply between the river banks along the entire extension of the city i s o n Buda built both sides of a bluff, which is

m. crowned with a s all fort From this point is spread a magnificent panorama . To the right is the hill on which standms the ancient fortress of Buda to the front is the ajestic royal castle , with gardens and terraces spreading do w n the declivity ’ of the hill almost to the water s edge . In the

- background are the Vine clad mountains of Buda , which prod uce most delicate wines . By crossing the suspen sion bridge one reaches an excel lent f tunnel that leads through this hill . A e w steps bring o n e to the little station of t he wire rope railway , which transports one up to the ancient fortress . There is a delightful island in the middle of the Danube , called Margaret Island . It comprises one hundred and twenty - tw o acres of land near

i s . the city , and the property of Archduke Joseph It is laid out in gardens that contain groups of h stately trees , fragrant flower beds , and smoot , n green lawns . It has also ma y s pacious build s ings , bath houses , restaurants , dance hall , and 2 JAMES BA TCHELDER. 3 7

' s ba n ds music stands , where gy p y perform two or

' three times a week . The small ruins of an ancient nunnery a nd a garden of remarkable roses stand f n in the center o the island . There are spri gs of t ff o r hot wa er , too , which a ord a cure , at least a f n mitigation , to suf eri g humanity . There are also hot water springs all alo n g the bank o f the Dan

a - ube near Buda . The f mous bitter water springs of are here , the products which are exported over n the whole globe . If these Spri gs were properly d managed , Bu a Pesth could become a favorite watering place . On leaving the above city I returned t o Vienna

w a . and wended my y to Zurich , in Switzerland

On this route one passes through the Tyrol , where t h mth e scenery becomes ore varied as e road de fil e s winds in sharp curves through deep , over f m hung by tremendous clif s, ounts slowly to z o f di zy heights , creeps along the edge precipices , u d thro gh ense forests , across beautiful natural

of parks , and along the banks swiftly running n m. mountai strea s The hills and mountains are

a covered with fir trees , relieved by vill ges and fine ol d a c stles . Of the endless variety of natural beauty on this route my pen fails me in giving a picture ; I can only assure t h e lover o f n ature that there coul d be n o more delightful scenes of m d lakes , ountains , forests , streams , and moorlan s .

i s a n d From the summit the descent quite steep , th e road winds through w oodland scenery and ex 3 28 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

u i site of q cascades , until the shore Lake Zurich is reached . From this point the road leads along h the lake s ore to the city . Zurich is romantically situated at the base of t h e m the Alps , at the place where Lim at River issues from the lake that lies at the foot of the long line of snowy Alps . It is embedded between ranges of hills , whose slopes are covered with vine

r yards , orchards , and g oups of houses , in pleas i n h g alternation , w ile the heights are crowned with dusky forests of pine . Thousands upon thousands o f tourists have a d mof ired the beauties this lake , and nothing can be more deligh tful than to glide swiftly over the t h e smooth waters in a steamboat , to upper end

- t h e of the lake , past the vine clad hills and trim

villages that line its banks . h romn a d e Zurich , wit its numerous delightful p es , pleased me very much . The Quay promenade , n borderi g the lake , is connected by a magnificent o f bridge , from which there is a splendid View the h A . t e l pine chains The valley of Limmat , near n ot the city , is wide , and the heights which limit it e h are studd d with numerous ouses and Villas , which are interspersed in a very pleasing manner

with gardens , orchards , and vineyards .

en r ou te From Zurich I we nt to Paris , for Havre , n N ormandi e o where I embarked the steamship , bound for N e w York . The voyage across the Atlantic w as not attended with any incident

330 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

shops , steam sawmills , planing mills , flour mills , w and huge elevators are every here to be seen . Its mfo r is t h e arket grain , beef, and pork largest in the world . The parks are n umerous and th e drives delightful . h m W en I had completed yVisit , I journeyed on to the Twin Cities , St . Paul and Minneapolis , u located on the Upper Mississippi , two tho sand

- fi ve mnt h . and sixty miles above its o They are ten miles apart from center to center Their combined popul a tion is nearly three hundred of n thousand , and although they are co siderable commercial importance , they contain nothing of d interest to etain a traveler . n w as th e My next stoppi g place Winnipeg , capi tal of the Province o f Manitoba . It is at the j unc tion of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers . It is well built and h as a population of thirty thousand . For many years it h a s been t h e chief post o f the

Hudson Bay Company . f o The next place o interest t me was Vancouver . L m e a v g Winnipeg I traveled by the Canadian Pacific through a broad plain checkered with h fields o f grain and dotted with farm ouses . We n passed station after statio , resembling each other except in the size of the villages surrounding them . These generally h ave a church , a hotel , and a grain elevator . After a ride of nearly a thousand miles over w e this almost level country , reached the foothills JAMES BATCHELDER . 33 1

of the Rocky Mountains , which rise in successive

w a tiers to the sno y r nges behind them . As we th e proceeded , snowy mountains seemed to rise k abruptly in great masses , strea ed and capped

with sno w and ice . Next the train passed between o f two almost vertical walls dizzy h eight . This is the gap by which t he Rocky Mountains are

entered .

fe w a th e In a hours we reached B nff, station for k Hot Roc y Mountain Park and Springs , a medic

inal watering place and pleasure resort . This

- park is a national reservation , twenty six miles n t o f lo g and ten wide , embracing par s th e valleys Bo w of the , Spray , and Cascade Rivers , with ’ Devil s Lake and several grand mountain ranges . From this point t o the Pacific Coast the scenery is magnificent . Three great mountain ranges a nd must be crossed , the Selkirk , the Gold Range ,

the Cascade Range . The Selkirk Range forms of cou nt rv the backbone the , rising in this part

higher than the Rocky Mountains . At Rogers ’ Pass is a glacier whose top measures

a mile in width . Severa l currents flow from under neath the base of th is mass of ice and unite in a

h . deep gorge , in whic Glacier Hotel is Situated Magnificent mountain Views are to be obtained The from this spot . railroad avails itself of this ravine and also of another th at comes into it at w e t n right angles a short distance belo , to g dow I out of the pass . The line , by repeated oops and 3 32 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

for si x double loops , runs miles , descends six hun

t w o mo f dred feet , and accomplishes j ust iles actual distance . Here are six almost parallel lines in full View , each at a lower stage ; they are the loops f on o the Canadian Pacific . Further the steep n o f Th o m banks of the deep winding ca ons the p s on and Fraser Rivers have called for great engi of neering skill , and give , for hundreds miles , a f o . m succession grand scenes Fro Boston Bar ,

n a the principal ca on of the Fr ser . to Yale, the scenery is intensely interesting . The great river, of forced between vertical walls rock , roars and foams madly . Down th is vast chasm go the rail w a y and river together . The former is cut into the cliff two hundred feet above it . It twists and turns in every direction and plunges at intervals o f a min ute or two through proj ecti n g angles of

m. rock , which see to close the way

As the valley widens , farms and orchards be

a ssin th ro u h come frequent , and , after p g g the forest

of mammoth trees , we find ourselves on the tide

waters of the Pa cific . Shortly after this the train

rolls into the station at Vancouver , the western

terminus of t he Canadian Pacific Rail way . The city of Vancouver is situated on a penin on sula , which slopes from the water either side

to an elevation of nearly two hundred feet . The 1 886 city was incorporated in , at which time it

had a population of only si x hundred . It has

- about twenty thousand now . The present site of

3 34 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF

the time was only three , but since then death has cl a imed two more . More than a hundred were mr injured , so e ve y seriously ; in fact , almost every in one the train was more or less inj ured . After a stay of three w eeks I had so far re co v ered as to be able to proceed on my way to San

Francisco , th us completing my second trip aroun d the world . There is no course of life that affords more a d o f vantages than that travel , especially in foreign countries . It gives a better education than can be acquired from books ; and we learn to appre o w n ciate our native land , our home , for having been away . I have always returned with my love for my ow n country deepened and my mind broadened . I travel alone and find it the most independent way . One can always find persons with whom to talk , and often someone who will

- accompany him when sight seeing in large cities .

This over they part and perhaps never meet again . I h ave often met persons who had started in com pany with others , but could not agree and had

n b . parted , each goi g y himself In order to enjoy traveling one should have a t contented Spirit , tha adapts itself easily to cir u mstan ce s n c and treats temporary inconvenie ces

- u w ith good h umored contempt . One sho ld not be dependent on little comforts and indulgences , but manage to be happy in their absence . During my travels I have seldom taken a lette r 335 JAMES BATCHELDER .

o f n o r . introduction , do I care for one I depend n much upo accidental acquaintances , and I have always found that being kind and affable to those me t n whom I , payi g proper respect to their man

ners and customs , and feeling at home among w as them , a sure method of enabling me to enjoy myself and to find comforts as sweet a s those I

had been accustomed to in my native land . And now my roving disposition has been well f w satisfied . There are e places Visited by travel

ers that I have not seen . D uring my wanderings th e I have come in contact with the rich , poor ,

the cultivated , and the rough ; but never once , in

any part of the world , did I experience the slight

est discourtesy o r lack of kindness . Often perfect strangers have taken trouble and even put them selves out to do me a favor ; a n d for this kindness w a s and hospitality , that everywhere extended to w me , from all ith whom it has been my fortune

re col to come in contact , I have the most grateful

lection .