friends & family | FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

BEYOND THE GILDED LUSTER of Venice lies a melting pot of culture and gastronomy PICTURE PERFECT: ripe for discovery. Friuli-Venezia Giulia — ’s most northeastern region, which shares Cividale del Friuli with Ponte del Diavolo over a border with Austria and Slovenia — is a gastronomic gem that produces much of the the Natisone River country’s highly sought-after wine, cheese and prosciutto. When in PHOTO: © MILOSK50 | A mere 90 minutes outside the Floating City, Friuli (as it is more commonly called DREAMSTIME.COM by locals), easily explored by car, serves as the perfect destination to wine and dine several days away once business wraps up. Towns lie close together, and each ofers a Friuli unique experience that represents the diversity of the area. Boutique B&Bs abound, ranging from rustic to elegant, yet all with distinct personalities of their own. Wine and dine your Although one of Italy’s smaller regions, Friuli has always maintained a strategic Eat, drink and way through Italy’s role connecting Italy to Central and Eastern Europe. With wildly diverse geography for such a small area, the mountainous north juts up against the Alps; the eastern road trip your under-the-radar region. section borders Slovenia and, although quite hilly, produces much of the wine; the way through southern border lines the Adriatic Sea; and the west becomes more shallow and sandy Italy’s up-and- BY MICHELLE LYN as it eases into the tourist territory of Veneto. Roman origins laid the foundation for Friuli, but infuences from the Austro- coming tourist Hungarian Empire frmly remain, evident in the rich culinary scene. Divided into destination. four regions — Pordenone, Udine, and — Friuli proves an interesting region to explore from architectural, geographic and gastronomic perspectives.

68 globaltravelerusa.com MARCH 2017 STAR CITY: Aerial view of Palmanova, the star-shaped city (left), and its main square and cathedral (above)

PHOTOS: © FABRY974 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LIANEM | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING ORSONE B&B This chic, four-room boutique hotel brings New York sensi- bility to the region. A casual taverna and upscale restaurant Palmanova, in the province of Udine, is the perfect D’Osvaldo family is rooted in tradition here, as it has been make it easy to stay put once town to begin your journey. A concentric city built in the curing hams since 1940. you check in. shape of a star, it was designed to be a Venetian military In Italy, the two most widely known prosciuttos are station on the eastern frontier as protection from the prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto di San Daniele, yet in Via Darnazzacco 63, Cividale Ottoman Empire at the end of the 16th century. Friuli, prosciutto D’Osvaldo reigns supreme. Importing the del Friuli Designed by Vincenzo Scamozzi, Palmanova featured process of smoking hams to preserve the meat from Eastern $$$ all the military innovation available at the time. A fortress Europe, Giacomo D’Osvaldo began a tradition that would built in the shape of a nine-pointed star, Palmanova’s ram- be passed from father to son for four generations. LA SUBIDA parts protruded so all points could defend each other by In an antique villa that dates back to 1800, guests can Nestled in the forest near the ofering opportunities to crossfre and attack from multiple visit the D’Osvaldo Prosciutto Factory, which doubles as border of Slovenia, the family- angles. A moat encircled the town, and it was then said to the family home, and see how the ham is preserved and run eco-resort boasts two be an ideal Renaissance city. smoked among a balanced mixture of cherry and laurel restaurants on the property The city’s founding date of 1593 commemorated the logs, which add a hint of sweetness to the prosciutto. and ofers Vespas to explore victory over the Ottoman Turks in the War of Cyprus, and Deep in the hills of Cormòns, in an area dubbed the the countryside. 100 years later Napoleon led a second phase of construc- Collio, La Subida is a rustic, family-run eco-resort that Via Subida 52, Cormòns tion to create an additional layer of fortifcation. Today, boasts a humble, Michelin-starred restaurant among $$ Palmanova shines as a well-preserved gem, perfect for cabins in the forest. Owned and operated by the amiable history bufs, anchored by a town square and quaint cafés Sirk family, La Subida ofers an experience akin to visiting VENICA & VENICA CASA like Cafetteria Torinese and delectable pastry shops like relatives who take good care of you from the moment you Choose from six rooms and Nonna Pallina. arrive. La Subida’s rustic wooden cabins feature modern two apartments in this cozy Tourists are a welcome sight in this small town, received amenities and bring the outdoors in with foor-to-ceiling B&B on the sprawling Venica & with open arms by proud locals eager to share the history windows. Dinner at the onsite Trattoria is a must, as the Venica estate. Swimming, tennis of their unique home. Allow time to chat, and should you family makes most items from scratch and ofers an excep- and biking keep guests busy fnd yourself at Al Gambero, be prepared to visit with the tional presentation of regional cuisine. when not wine tasting on the afable owner over a glass of Prosecco as you sample his Josko Sirk, the patriarch of the family, is passionate veranda. sun-dried tomatoes and olives, morning or night. about vinegar making, producing wine vinegar made with Dolegna del Collio, Gorizia The next stop on your tour of Friuli should be the town whole grapes on his property. After three to four years of $$ of Cormòns in the , where roughly sharpening in small casks, Sirk’s vinegar is sulfte-free and 10 percent of the population is ethnically Slovene. The bottled without any fltering processes or tampering, which

MARCH 2017 globaltravelerusa.com 69 DINING he will proudly tell you during a tour of tional staf ofers perfectly choreographed IN THE HILLS: his vinegar house. service, and Bastianich wines complement Dolegna del Collio (left), LA FRASCA and Venica & Venica wine This roadside trattoria serves The next day, as you make your way each course. The best aspect of dinner at barrels (right) north through Friuli, head to La Frasca Orsone: You can pace yourself and enjoy elevated dishes in an authentic, un- PHOTOS: © VENICA & VENICA pretentious space. Owner and local for lunch at vintner Valter Scarbolo’s the ambience since you simply need to vintner Valter Scarbolo expertly pairs restaurant near Lauzacco. Just of the walk upstairs and are home for the night. dishes with his namesake wines. main highway, its cozy and inviting ambi- After a hearty breakfast at Orsone ence makes it easy to spend four to fve the next day (make sure you try the torta Viale Grado 50, Lauzacco hours lingering over 12 delectable courses di ricotta), make your way to Dolegna del INFO TO GO $$$ paired with Scarbolo’s frst-rate wines. Collio, where the Venica family created International fights Moving on to Cividale del Friuli, a sprawling estate part winery, part arrive at Venice ORSONE RISTORANTE check into Orsone, a luxurious concept B&B and part family home. More than Marco Polo Airport, Anchored by a blazing hearth, the that consists of a bed and breakfast, a 80 years ago the family began growing where you can rent restaurant creates elegant dining taverna and a restaurant. The vision of vines and fruit trees together. The farm a car and drive less with expert use of local ingredients. mother-son restaurateurs Lidia and Joe sustained the family’s needs frst, with than 90 minutes into Guests watch the chef prepare Bastianich, Orsone sits among the family’s the excess sold to restaurants in the area. the region. Flights dishes through a window that takes vineyards and ofers the perfect respite in Eventually, future generations discovered also arrive into up half the space. an idyllic setting. a way to tap into the natural biodiversity Trieste–Friuli-Venezia Giulia Airport, where Via Darnazzacco 63, Cividale del Friuli Before dinner, venture into the heart of their crops and create balance and you can also rent a $$$ of Cividale del Friuli. Park outside the unique character in their notably complex city center and walk over the Ponte del wines. car — the best way to explore the area. TRATTORIA AL CACCIATORE DELLA Diavolo (the Devil’s Bridge) that crosses Giampaolo Venica represents the SUBIDA the Natisone River, forming a picturesque Venica & Venica brand globally, bringing Enjoy fne dining that feels like you’re ravine as you enter the town. Head Friulian wines to the masses while also having dinner at a friend’s home. The toward Cafè del Corso and rub elbows encouraging guests to taste his family’s Sirk family, which owns and operates with locals over an evening spritz, the wines and stay at their picturesque B&B. all aspects of the property, ofers ultimate Aperol cocktail and popular While not only ofering the perfect base genuine hospitality. Italian aperitivo. to explore other wineries in the area, Dinner at Orsone is elegant and Venica is also an expert ambassador for Via Subida 52, Cormòns comfortable, especially if you are seated the region, which won’t remain under the $$$ by the roaring freplace. An interna- radar much longer.

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