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Vol. XXV No. 4 MUSINGS June 1-15, 2015 A long haul yet Know your Fort for Metro Rail better he decks are cleared for to be completed. It is only when tion from all other modes of TChennai’s long-awaited this is done will the full benefits transport. If this is to be re- Metro Rail system to roll out. of the metro service be enjoyed peated by the Metro, it would Those in the know agree that by the commuting public. indeed be a futile exercise. At these have been cleared for The delay in the execution the initiation of the Metro quite some time now, but who of the project owing to various project, last mile connectivity are we to cavil at the delay? factors has caused an escalation was one of the major promises Though a section of the media of costs as well. Much will de- made. Now it is not so clear. has gone to town over the inau- pend on the continuous fund- Certainly, there are no bus bays guration and has written of it as anywhere in the vicinity of the the beginning of the end of all completed stretch that awaits

traffic woes in the city, we G by The Editor inauguration. Detail showing the Sea Gate from an 18th Century engraving of would advise a more cautious What of parking facilities? If Fort St. George, after paintings by Scott and Lambert. approach. For there is much the Metro hopes to get car users that still needs to be completed ing of the project by the State to switch to public transport, it and Central funding agencies if the service is to prove effec- will have to provide parking The moat as it is today, as seen from St George’s Gate. tive. for speedy completion. bays, or at least make arrange- Firstly, this is only a part of Secondly, the completed ments in the near vicinity for G Before we enter the Fort proper, let us pause for a moment the service – the line being used section has quite a few issues this. At present, no plans and run our eye over the moat that surrounds the entire precinct, only connects to that need immediate attention appear to be afoot to achieve or at least was supposed to. Today it is entirely overgrown with . The rest of the route if the service is to see good pa- this and those who live in the weeds, barring a few places to the rear of the Fort where it still has which, when fully executed, will tronage. The major problem is vicinity of the Metro stations stagnant water, but in its time this was a vital element of the de- connect Central Station to St of last mile connectivity. As is fear that their streets will soon fences. well known, one of the chief Thomas Mount, will take quite become unauthorised parking There have been several versions of the moat in the Fort’s long causes for the failure of the a while before it is completed. lots for the cars that await history. Arriving here as early as in 1673, Dr John Fryer noted that Mass Rapid Transport System The second line, from Wimco ‘on the south side they have cut a ditch of a sufficient depth to (MRTS) was its complete isola- (Continued on page 2) Nagar to the Airport, also has prevent scaling the wall’. This did not evidently last long for, in 1676, when the Council at Fort St George wrote to the HQ seeking permission for strengthening the place, it raised the subject of a wet ditch. As this was in response to a stern missive demanding that the Madras establishment reduce its ex- Are contractors bent on penses, the tone of the request was somewhat submissive. The Council ‘humbly presented for your consideration’ the need to cleaning up PWD? build, among several other things, a ‘good Ditch’. This was evi- dently sanctioned, for, a year later, when the sea made great in- cursions on the land, a detailed note was submitted on the subject he first half of May was not neering) Association in bring- media and went viral. Repre- to the Company where there is clear mention of a ditch. Mrs Frank as hot as it threatened to be ing to light this problem had all sentatives of the Association T Penny, in her Fort St George, a Short History of our First Possession in when it came to the weather. the trappings of modern day then met senior officials of the India writes that this ditch was later extended to the eastern side as But as far as the Public Works protests. First came a flex ban- Directorate of Vigilance and well. She, however, maintains that this was no moat but a dry ditch. Department of our State was ner outside the pre- Anti-Corruption and handed The original Fort, as we saw earlier, spanned what would pres- concerned, a considerable mises of the PWD that said that over the names. The matter is ently include just the Assembly building and the Parade Square. amount of heat and dust was the list of names of ten ‘most said to be under investigation. As it expanded, the ditch vanished and the Description of Fort St generated. This had to do with What ought to be a fight George or Madras (published in 1747 in the Gentleman of ’s the contractors who regularly against corruption subsequently G Magazine) states that the “Fort is surrounded with a Rampart faced bid for the PWD’s work threat- By A Special descended into bathos. Ques- with a thick Wall of what they call Iron Stone, being of the Colour ening to release a list of the Correspondent tioned as to what prompted this of unwrought Iron, and very rough outside like a Honey-comb but ‘most corrupt engineers’ of the drastic action, the Association without any Ditch or Fosse on the Outside.” But serious consider- Department. The issue has corrupt engineers’ of the claimed that it was quite fed up ation was evidently given for the construction of a new moat that since blown over to an extent, Department would soon be with the evil ways of the would surround the expanded Fort. As evidence of this we have A but it has lifted the cover off a released. A couple of days later, Department’s engineers. It Memorandum of the Early History of Fort St George (published in deep malaise that everyone the list was put up at the same transpires that everyone was 1847), according to which, in 1743 an engineer named Smith sub- knew existed but refused to ac- spot and this was soon removed quite happy with a commission mitted plans for strengthening the Fort, and increasing its area by knowledge so far. by the Police, an alacrity that of six per cent that was the 15 to 30 acres; he defined this additional area by a wet ditch, which The modus operandi of the they do not usually show when norm for all contracts. But a he dug and faced with bricks. Mrs Penny writes that this was Public Works De- it comes to dismantling banners sudden hike in the money partment Contractors (Engi- of other kinds. The list was, however, soon put up on social (Continued on page 2) (Continued on page 7) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS June 1-15, 2015 A long haul yet for Metro Rail The tie that binds hennai is said to have an flourishes at the Chennai There is, however, one pre- Cinternational airport by facility. By itself it is nothing requisite in the successful (Continued from page 1) different kind. The Russian which term The Man from other than one more queue, execution of this procedure – contractor who was responsible Madras Musings presumes something that our airport namely the packing in of the for the tunnelling along this line what is meant is nothing more specialises in. But its outcome, scissors. And last week, MMM passengers using the Metro has vanished, leaving behind than that a certain number of a plastic ring around the having arrived at a hill station service. equipment and a host of unpaid aircraft take off for foreign zippers of the suitcase or bag, is to take a temporary break from By far the biggest issue vendors. The latter have since lands each day from here and a major nuisance, for, in the Chennai heat, found appears to be the lack of pedes- been petitioning Chennai as many flights arrive from MMM’s view, there is no himself devoid of scissors. The trian access. The Metro had Metro Rail to make their those exotic locales. Certainly scientific method of taking it opening of the suitcase was an there is very little in the view off. absolute must and, so, MMM committed to building foot- payments. The vendors have of MMM that makes this faci- MMM has been advised by had to come up with some paths extending to around 500 also been staging protests out- lity in any way international. several that the process is fairly creative solution. Knowing that metres in the vicinity of each side the CMRL office. Metro Those who follow MMM’s simple. All you need to do, they previous attempts at tugging at station. This appears to have Rail will now have to identify a writings (and may their tribe say, is to give it a powerful tug the ring had proven futile, he been handed over to the new contractor to complete the increase) are aware that he has at a strategic spot and the ring attempted twisting it this way Corporation of Chennai and work, a task that is not easy written frequently on the snaps into two. As to where and that, only to have it recoil there are no clear-cut target given the procedures involved. shortcomings of the place, be- this weak link in that binder is, that way and this. MMM then dates by when this will be Taken overall, Metro Rail ginning with its tendency to MMM has not been able to tried inserting a teaspoon, completed. If passengers are has a long way to go before it drop its ceiling tiles upon the fathom. He has tried the provided rather thoughtfully by floor beneath, rather like the tugging procedure only to find the resort where he was stay- unable to walk to the Metro becomes the kind of service it quality of mercy. Those like the ring tightening and clamp- ing, into the ring and sawing at Rail stations, the service is likely has been touted as. Much will MMM, who lack protective ing the two ends of the zipper it. Nothing much happened to remain underused. depend on speedy execution, natural headgear, are advised as if it were a vice. What MMM other than the spoon becoming While these are all issues the addressing of concerns of all to go in only if they are wear- has therefore taken to doing is completely bent in the manner pertaining to the first phase of stakeholders and, above all, ing helmets. to carefully pack in a pair of of Quasimodo. the service, the Parrys- efficient operation. Time alone line has run into problems of a will tell if it is up to all this. SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY Cleaning up PWD Another aspect of the small scissors in an outer Rather desperate by now, (Continued from page 1) view that the names could be place, which gets MMM’s goat, zipped enclosure of his suit- MMM put his finger into the made public only after an en- is the necessity to have all case. On reaching his destina- ring and tried tugging. He leapt quiry establishes beyond doubt checked-in baggages scanned tion, MMM simply pulls out back with a howl for the spoon demanded made the contrac- before handing them over at his scissors and cuts the ring had serrated the inner edges of tors see red. They also felt that the complicity of the officials the counter. This practice, asunder, rather in the manner the ring and this caused a series the PWD, when faced with the concerned. Meanwhile, schisms now done away with in all but of Alexander the Great cutting of cuts on MMM’s finger. At contractors’ refusal to pay up, have appeared in the Contrac- the most primitive of airports, the Gordian Knot. his wits’ end, MMM rang for had begun breaking up the con- tors’ Association, a section of housekeeping and asked for a tracts into small segments that which has given the named en- knife. But this was not did not have to go through the gineers a clean chit and claimed forthcoming – the hotel clearly tendering process. These could that there is no such malprac- had its doubts when a be awarded to contractors who tice in the PWD. guest suddenly called and would be willing to oblige the There matters rest for the asked for a knife, preferably a sharp one. Department officials. nonce. It is up to the State Gov- It was then that MMM The social media release also ernment to look into the mat- discovered a candle and a carried what purported to be an ter and clear it all up if it is seri- matchbox left by the bed. This audio recording of an engineer ous about fighting corruption. If being one of those hillside of the PWD speaking to a con- there is a political will, even the resorts where power supply tractor. In it he admonishes the six per cent that has become could be erratic if the weather latter for his lack of ethics in not standard practice ought to be turned nasty, such appurte- answering phone calls which, as done away with. But there are nances were essential. On we all know, is something that good reasons to doubt if such a seeing these, MMM had a clean-up will take place. It is brainwave. It was the work of a all Government departments moment to light the candle and are experts at. In addition, the not so long ago that a Joint hold it under the plastic ring. caller practically beseeches the Commissioner of the Corpora- There was a cloud of smoke contractor to pay up failing tion of Chennai was transferred and a nasty smell but when it which his superiors would ha- when he tried to break the had all cleared MMM found rass the caller. monopoly of cartels and ques- the ring had given way. The The Association of Engi- tioned their business practices. edges of the suitcase zipper neers and Assistant Engineers That ended all further investi- were somewhat charred but of the PWD has roundly con- gation in the civic body. Will they could now be opened. demned all this, and the release the PWD go the same way? It Such then are the perils of travelling out of Chennai by of names. This body is of the would be a pity if it did. air. Tailpiece MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB ow The Man from Madras NMusings knows how the To reach out to as many readers as possible who Tamil Nadu Electricity Board alias TANGEDCO works. The share our keen interest in Madras that is Chennai, two photographs alongside were taken five hours apart. and in response to requests from many well-wish- Ten men assembled to shift a ers – especially from outside Chennai and abroad vertical bobbin of electric cables. What they achieved af- who receive their postal copies very late – for an ter much shouting and many cups of tea is there for you to online edition. Madras Musings is now on the web see. at www. madrasmusings.com – MMM THE EDITOR June 1-15, 2015 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

Rochelle Shah recalls... Two great influences

Seeing Jayakanthan couple of important destina- in her life tions, good sense prevents me recall somewhat vaguely from pin-pointing! having listened to a fiery n 1961, I accompanied Sarah Yes, of course, I knew of Golda Meir. She told me how, I Nevertheless, we enjoy its speech from Jayakanthan (MM, IPaul and Parvathy Kailash- them, had met and been intro- apart from the conferences at bounty and morning walks to May 16th) at Pulla (Reddy) pathy to a Seminar held at duced to them also, but I the highest level where they the Boat Club area through this Avenue near my house. If I Mt. Carmel, Haifa, Israel, on cannot honestly say at that represented their countries, stretch are a pleasant exercise. remember right he was espous- The Role of Women in Third point that I knew them. They they had a lot in common just ing Indian nationalism vis-à-vis All of a sudden, TANGED- World Countries. Sarah Paul were women of distinction, as friends. Tamil nationalism. On the CO gets into the act and over- was the Chief Inspectress of two women I looked up to in Mary was loved by all those same issue, at the same venue, I night one half of this nice Schools in Maharashtra, and awe. she worked amongst and for. remember hearing another stretch is mercilessly disembo- Parvathy Kailashpathy (origi- The first thing I did when I She had been given the high person, Viduthalai Virumbi, at welled. After a week, the bete- nally from Madras) was deep returned home was to send the civilian awards by the Govern- a different meeting. noire of the pedestrian, the bob- into social services working out letters with a covering note to ment. They did not stop her bins make their entry into the of Calcutta. both of them. Within hours, I from working on and on. She On Jayakanthan, the writer, scenario and, happily, within a all I can claim is having felt dis- There were about 60 del- had calls from them thanking didn’t sit, detatched, in an a/c couple of anxious days of egates. Some English-speaking me, and inviting me to call on cabin. She was there, in the turbed on his demise as I did fol- watching and waiting, the bob- lowing that of another from Ceylon, Thailand, Nigeria them. field, listening personally to the bins are unburdened of their and others from French-speak- problems of those in need and mustachioed writer, Gabriel endless coils of thick cables Mrs. Ammu Swaminadhan Garcia Marquez. But regretfully ing African countries, all of lived in a huge sprawling man- living in subhuman conditions. which found their way into the whom have, since then, achiev- Doing her utmost to alleviate I must admit. I haven’t read the bowels of the trenches. sion of red brick, on the corner books of either of them. ed their Independence and suffering, trying to get them at Even as we were about to gone back to their original least one good meal a day. I was among the audience at sing the praises of TANGED- names. Her goal was not charity, but to a function at Vani Mahal at the CO during our morning consti- train them to earn their own start of the Tamil month of tutionals about the alacrity with Haifa is a beautiful city that looks over the blue waters of the way with their own talents. To Chithirai in 2011 where Jaya- which the cables were rolled know self-respect and dignity. kanthan among others re- out and the trenches refilled Bay, and its skyline is domi- nated by the imposing Gold To this end, she started the launched the Tamil magazine with earth, we rubbed our eyes, School of Social Work on Kanaiyazhi. At that time, a comprehending why the tren- Dome of the Bahai Temple. There are strict rules in place Casa Major Road (which still physically frail K. Kasturi ches were re-excavated and the Mary Clubwala Ammu exists). Rangan, the founder of the cables were about to be covered about all new constructions – Jadhav Swaminadhan She had total recall. Never magazine, must have been with proper casing! the view of the Haifa Bay can- forgot a face or a name. I met happy when his daughter (my Was there a goof-up on the not be blocked by any highrise wife) handed him a copy at building. of Harrington Road and Gilch- her at informal parties – always job which resulted in the rist Avenue. I arrived promptly on time, simply dressed and home. The very next month, It was during this visit that trenches being opened up all at 4 p.m. She was dressed sim- minus an entourage. I became Kasturi Rangan died and the all the delegates visited a over again? After an agonising ply, in starched white, and wel- close to her. She was deeply cover of the June issue of kibbutz (a communal farming wait, the trenches have been comed me with a smile. We sat attached to her family, particu- Kanaiyazhi was dedicated to my settlement with a lifestyle that filled with earth in a hazardous on the wide veranda, where tea larly to her son and only child father-in-law. is the backbone of Israel). At way. was served with a minimum of Phil. She was shattered when Kibbutz Dagania, we had a T.K. Srinivas Chari This entire stretch of road fuss. She could see that I was ill he suffered a massive heart surprise hostess in Mrs. Golda 99, Journalists Colony remains unfinished and vehicles at ease. Very gently she led the attack in February 1974, and Meir – at that time the Foreign cannot ply on them. Pedestri- conversation with a few ques- was gone before help could be Minister of Israel. Chennai 600 041 ans find it difficult to cross the tions, and then said: “Tell me summoned. I could feel the road as a major portion is thus Mrs. Meir had been travel- about Israel. Describe it for me. pain behind her stoic manner. Was there a goof-up? affected. Ours is not to protest ling back and forth to Jerusalem All I know about that country I visited and wrote her a condo- but to endure in silence! propos the antics of as an observer and witness at is what I read in Leon Uris’ book lence letter, to which she We will now have to wait TNEB (aka TANGED- the trial of Adolph Eichman Exodus.” My nervousness replied, “My heart is broken. I A patiently till the powers that be CO) (MM, May 16th), I (a top Nazi and the brain be- evaporated. cannot say more...” I still have at TANGEDCO finally decide wonder what is happening at hind the ‘Final Solution’ for that letter. to bring this stretch back to its She was a social worker and Greenway’s Road, one of the Jews). A year after Phil’s death, she original shape. a freedom fighter, along with few boulevards in Chennai, Mrs. Meir was tall, broad- Hannah Sen (whom I had met passed away in 1975. Village tree-lined and well-maintained. V. Kalidas shouldered (carrying the in 1948 when she was Principal Road, Sterling Road, Wheat- Perhaps because it leads to a [email protected] burdens of the fledgling state) of Lady Irwin College, Delhi). croft Road were blocked by and plain-looking until I looked Her daughter was Dr. Lakshmi the thousands of families who into her eyes – full of suffering, Saigal who fought alongside came to pay their last OUR ADDRESSES love, compassion and my entire Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose in respects, weeping and totally conception changed in that bereft. Traffic was halted, For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt of the INA. (I eventually met Dr. moment. Saigal in Madras when she was cars made no headway. She receipts etc.: CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott and her beloved son are buried Road, , Chennai 14. The first question she asked 91.) Her son, the late Govind me: “Which part of India do Swaminadhan, was a legal lumi- in the Parsi Cemetery in Madras Musings now has its own email ID. Letters to the editor . can be sent via email to editor@madras musings.com. Those who you come from?” When I said nary and the world-famous wish to intimate change of address can also do so provided the Madras, she said: “I have two dancer/choreographer. Mrina- I was about 25 when I met subscription number is quoted. very good friends there. Mrs. lini Sarabhai was her younger the two of them. Interacting For non-receipt of copies, change of address, and all other circulation Ammu Swaminadhan and Mrs. daughter. with them influenced my life for Mary Clubwala. Do you know the better. They did not matters: Madras Musings, C/o Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., We spoke and met quite a them and will you carry two lecture, give advice, point out 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. On editorial matters: The few times after that, but she Editor, Madras Musings, No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, letters from me to them?” She my flaws. But in their gentle was never over powering or Royapettah, Chennai 600 014. wrote these out immediately. silences, their achievements taking over. She passed away in Her knowledge of India, its and from what they said and No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters received will be 1978. A great personal loss to sent from these addresses every couple of days to the persons leaders, most particulary the manner in which they said me. concerned and you will get an answer from them to your queries rea- Gandhiji, our non-violent move it, I learned a lot of important sonably quickly. Strange as it may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail mail’ to Independence, was vast. She When I called on Mrs. Club- lessons about life, dedication, approach, we will be able to help you faster and disappoint appoint you had come to know them and wala, she insisted that I call her integrity and the strength of less. Mrs. Vijayalaxmi Pandit at con- Mary. She wanted to know humility. Life for me has been ñ THE EDITOR ferences in New York, Zurich what had taken me to Israel, enriched through having and other capitals. and as many details of her friend known them. 4 MADRAS MUSINGS June 1-15, 2015 June 1-15, 2015 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 New hope for The City’s green the Marsh landmarks Living Landmarks of Chennai by indigenous trees seldom seen and colour change that occurs in Pallikarnai Marsh is not yet fully Nizhal team (Published by recognised, and (3) exotic trees flowers during blossoming, how documented. What is known at Kalamkriya Limited, 2015) rarely noticed. These reasons fruits disperse seeds and the as- present is just the number of adras city and the Presi- seemed logical. sociated fibres (ilavampanju), and species in selected groups of Mdency have attracted sev- High quality colour images of pharmacognistic notes referring plants and animals. eral foreign plants for economic the habits of chosen examples to the use of this tree and its parts Of that which is known, birds reasons in the last 300 years. are the greatest strength of the in traditional Indian medicine are the most diverse class of or- James Anderson introduced book. Some of them are in black add value. I found the brief re- ganisms. Around 140 species of many in his creations – the and white, but are, indeed, re- marks referring to the featured birds use the wetlands as their Marmelon and freshing. Excellent close-up pho- trees as found in scriptures and habitat and of them nearly half Gardens. Thanks to the efforts of tos of foliage and flowers add puranas pertinent. The Marsh today – and construction that edges it. may be migratory. Migratory A sign of protection. Clements Markham, Cinchona value. Details are presented The cultural connections of birds visit the Pallikarnai Marsh from South America was intro- briefly in both English and Tamil the trees are splendidly exempli- etlands are shallow aqua- channels that drained the marsh large ducks that resemble the do- Nadu has taken considerable from parts of North India and duced into India and later estab- set as parallel columns in a page. fied to the extent that they tic ecosystems found into the Arabian Sea were also mestic ducks and breed in the interest in restoring Pallikarnai W beyond, coming from even the lished as large plantations in the Descriptions of 40 tree varieties would interest a person with lim- throughout the world. All blocked, leaving Okkiyam Pallikarnai Marsh. Apart from Marsh since it was first brought temperate regions of Eurasia, Nilgiris. Emperor Akbar was a are supplied under their Tamil ited biological knowledge but wetlands are subjected to sea- Madavu as the sole lifeline that these, there are also pelicans. to public notice in 2002. some travelling as much as 6000 great fan of pigeons and he main- with unlimited passion to know The 450 years old banyan tree (Ficus benghalensis) in the Theosophical Society sonal changes in depth and wa- linked the marsh with the sea. The species of pelican found in Although the process of restora- km. These migratory birds spend tained a flock of 10,000 birds about trees. Inclusion of details campus. ter chemistry; as a result, the The marsh that was once a the marsh is the Spot-billed tion has been slow, the efforts the winter months in the marsh brought into India from Eastern on some of the interesting exot- plants and animals associated continuous habitat was frag- Pelican, a large fish-eating bird. directed towards achieving this G by Dr. A Raman particularly because of their see a reference to Parkia biglan- and fly back to their northern Europe, which later spread ics, such as the handsome Guai- with wetlands also change with mented by roads and railways re- Fish-eating birds are impor- end have been positive. large, leathery leaves. Ficus krish- dulosa. These African trees, summer habitats to breed. throughout India, including Ma- [email protected] acum officinale, originally from the seasons. sulting in major changes in the tant indicators of the health of The first and foremost step nae, presently known as Ficus known popularly as the ‘badmin- Some of the common birds dras. In spite of such extensive South America, and the impos- Pallikarnai Marsh is a wet- depth of the marsh. Fragmenta- wetlands. They are like tigers in taken by the Government was to benghalensis or. krishnae, bearing ton ball’ trees (see image for the that visit the Pallikarnai Marsh introductions, plants of Madras ing Hura crepitans from Central land in . It is one tion led to permanent changes in forest. Fish-eating birds are formally announce that the astonishing cup-like leaves, grow elegant resemblance of their flower in winter are ducks such as the are fascinating because they rep- America is helpful. of the few remaining natural the water-holding capacity of the carnivores and carnivores are marsh would be a protected area. names followed by biological and in the Col- clusters to badminton balls) too Northern Pintail, Northern resent elements which can sur- As an ardent admirer of fig waterlands in Southern India. higher up in the food chain. Soon after this a chunk of around common English names. lege campus, thanks to the re- grow in Loyola College, Madras. vive and perform successfully in (Ficus) trees, I was delighted to Although coastal in orientation, Pelicans, cormorants, herons, 300 ha of the marsh was handed I will use one example to il- lentless effort of the botanist, the I have always wondered during a warm and humid environment read the pages on Ficus bengha- Pallikarnai Marsh is not entirely storks and terns that are found over to the Tamil Nadu Forest lustrate the style followed: Pages late G. Masilamani, in propa- my teaching days in Loyola about that has monsoon rains in Octo- lensis (ãl) and see photos of some saltwater. Half of the marsh may in abundance in the Pallikarnai Department. Following this 8 and 9 refer to Bombax malabari- gating this taxon. I was hoping to their links to bats, only to realise ber-November. of the magnificent examples in be saline in character while the Marsh are all more or less several encroachments were cum (Malvaceae) (current valid later that some species of The immediate impression of Madras. But why no mention of other half is fresh. entirely dependent on fish for removed and land notified for name, Bombax ceiba) known as Microchiroptera feed on the nec- this colourful, slim book was that Ficus religiosa (arasu) is made in The salt-freshwater balance is their food. When there are other uses were de-notified. Over the ‘red-silk cotton’ and ilavu tar of the florets of this tree and it is a worthwhile addition to the this book left me non-plussed. very dynamic, changing rapidly groups of many different varieties the years more chunks of the (Tamil). Photos and legends re- pollinate them! A reference to knowledge of Madras city plants. Maybe, the Nizhal team thought with the seasons. While it tends of these birds around, it indicates marsh were brought under fer to their occurrence in various the palai trees (Alstonia scholaris) The Nizhal team had smartly ap- that arasu is so common in Ma- to be a predominantly freshwater that there are lots of fish in the protection so that at present sections of Madras city, inviting is made in the book. Plenty of proached the book’s concept by dras that it could be dropped; marsh during and immediately wetland. nearly 600 ha is formally any dendrophile to find the trees these trees are found along the calling it ‘living landmarks’, probably they have a point. But after the monsoon rains, it tends Fish breeds abundantly only protected. easily. References of ilavu in clas- western coastal plains of south- which struck me as brilliant. The the cultural significance of arasu to become saline as the summer when the water is clean, well- Restoration plans have been sical Tamil literature (e.g. Avvai- ern India. Nizhal team lists the following as cannot be gainsaid. Trees of Fi- progresses. aerated and cool. Pallikarnai drawn up. In order to implement yar’s Aathichudi) and citing of the This is a fascinating tree that reasons for the choice of materi- cus mysorensis are found plenti- When the existence of this Marsh has numerous fish in and monitor the restoration oft-used Tamil metaphor ilavu usually bears seven, rarely eight als in this book: (1) trees of his- fully in Loyola College campus extensive wetland was first diverse varieties. Nearly 50 plans the Government has esta- kaatha kili make profound sense. Parkia biglandulosa. Note the bad- or nine, leaves at one node. torical, cultural importance, (2) and they are graceful trees too, brought to the notice of the pub- species of fish have been found blished the Pallikarnai Marsh- Brief biological notes on the minton ball-like flower clusters. Because of this type of a leaf lic in 2002 by Care Earth, it was in the marsh. Fish are important land Conservation Authority arrangement, this tree is ézhilai- not known as Pallikarnai Marsh. links in the aquatic food chain. (PMCA). PMCA works closely paala (the seven-leaved pãlai) in To some, it was known as ‘Vela- When the number and diversity with the Forest Department and Malayalam and saptaparnaa in chery marshes’ and other locally of the fish declines, so will the civil society. Several initiatives They’re free – to create heritage awareness Sanskrit. The book refers to its called it ‘Kazhuveli’. Care Earth There’s bird life again. fish-eating birds. While it is not have been taken to create greater linkage to Indian tradition, rep- christened it the Pallikarnai easy to monitor the population conservation awareness among resenting a scholar (hence and diversity of fish in a wetland, people. Such initiatives include alamkriya, the publishers Siva Temples of – Temple Vahanas of Tamil Marsh based on its location in marsh. While some parts of the Shoveller and Garganey. There scholaris in its biological name). monitoring the fish-eating birds activities like awareness walks, Kof Living Landmarks of First published in 2002, this slim Nadu – Written by Pradeep close proximity to the Pallikarnai marsh went permanently under- are other aquatic birds called Although not concerned with is easy. bird watching programmes, and Chennai, has been nurtured by volume of 18 pages looks at the Chakravarthy, and with sketches village. water, others that were exposed waders that visit the marsh in Chandra Sankar, who has been seven ancient Saivite shrines of by V. Vijayakumar, this book was Madras in any manner, one point Fish-eating birds are ‘flag- drawing and elocution competi- After its discovery in 2002, dried up during summer. Areas large numbers during winters. doing some silent but significant Mylapore. It carries the names of published in 2010. It focusses on of heritage significance of this ships’ of wetlands. We need to tions for local school and college Care Earth, with the support of that dried up during summer Waders are aquatic birds that do work in bringing to light our heri- the principal deities, route maps, the processional mounts used in charming Indian tree is that at conserve them. Birds are also students. the Tamil Nadu Pollution Con- were soon invaded by the non- not swim but wade through shal- tage – built, natural and cultural. sketches and the legends behind various temples in Tamil Nadu. Vishwa Bharati Vishvavidyalaya trol Board, initiated the first sci- attractive to watch and these Care Earth Trust has pre- Kalamkriya began life in in-house each temple. Living Landmarks of Chennai – the university that evolved native ‘veli-kaathan’ tree and in- low waters as they feed on tiny attributes have made the entific study of the Pallikarnai vasive wetland plants, changing aquatic animals. pared the master plan for resto- printing for the Sanmar group. Its Grandma’s Home Remedies – Released this year, this is the from the rich mind of Rabin- Pallikarnai Marsh a favourite main activity in its early years was (3 volumes) – The first of these first colour production of the Marsh. The first discovery, al- the character of the wetland Some of the common waders ration. Talks are on with the dranath Tagore – students walk though discouraging, was that destination for bird-watchers. Chennai Corporation for the the bringing out of several corpo- came out in 2004 with significant series. Conceptualised by the to the Chancellor to receive from a marsh to a swamp. that spend their winter in the rate brochures. It changed focus contributions from Leela Shekar NGO Nizhal, it brings to light the the nearly 600 ha of marsh that Despite fragmentation and Pallikarnai Marsh are Little * * * closure of the garbage titles and diplomas on the gradu- dump yard and restoration of the over time to the in-house publi- and Srividya Moorthy. The various tree species that thrive in was extant in 2002 was just 10 the resultant changes in the Stint, Spotted Sandpiper, Ruff, Bird watching is a form of rec- cations of Sanmar. And some- second and third, written respec- our city, their locations and their ation day holding a branch of Al- marsh completely. per cent of its original extent. character of the wetland, Black-tailed Godwit and Grey- reation. There are other means where along the way, it began to tively by Haimavati Ammal and significance. stonia scholaris. Incidentally, The discovery was more startling Pallikarnai Marsh continues to headed Lapwing. There are also of recreation too. A clean and The Forest Department has release a series of books that look Annapoorani Viswanathan, were The one priced publication by Palghat, the anglicised form of when it was learnt that the 90 per play a major role as an ecological flocks of Greater Flamingoes that healthy ecosystem is aesthetic. for the sake of better administra- at various cultural aspects of published in 2005. They bring Kalamkriya is Mosquitoes and Paala-k-kaadu, derives its name cent shrinking that the marsh service provider to South spend their winter in Marsh. Clean and healthy wetlands are tion created an exclusive Palli- Chennai and Tamil Nadu. Each out the simple medical recipes of Many a temple has one of these Other Jolly Rovers. Written by because this region included experienced was in the past 30 Chennai and its residents. The Other aquatic birds that are admired for their scenic beauty. karanai Range and established a of these books is a labour of love, Tamil Nadu that cure common trees that is sacred to its precinct former State cricketer V. Ramna- dense populations (hence forest, for they are distributed free of ailments. and some even have gardens with rayan, it is an important docu- years. Unplanned development major ecological services pro- common in Pallikarnai Marsh Although Pallikarnai Marsh may local office. The office premises kãdû) of A. scholaris (pãlai, pãla in South Chennai, encroach- also maintain an interpretation cost to those who are interested Traditional South India Hair- all these trees. The book has in mentation, as it looks at the tree). In North Canara, A. vided by the Pallikarnai Marsh are resident species, or birds that not in its present state provide in reading them. They are also all styles – First published in 2006, many ways encouraged the history of league cricket in the ment, and unscientific solid include mitigation of floods, spend both winter and summer much scenic attraction, it is pos- centre providing valuable infor- scholaris is kéra, which implies mation on the biodiversity of the bilingual – in Tamil and English. this book was the work of a team. protection of trees. State, whose various divisions waste disposal were the three im- regulation of local temperature in the same habitat and also sible to restore the wetland and The publications released thus far It has sketches of various hairdos Fifty Historic Residences of made it a true home for the sport. water (e.g. Arsikéré (the arsi portant reasons for the shrinking and sheltering valuable biodiver- breed locally. Common residents make it attractive in the near fu- marsh to visitors. A Forest are: and detailed descriptions of how Chennai – Written by Sriram V, Priced at Rs 295, this was lake). According to local knowl- of the once extensive wetland. sity. include the Black-winged Stilt, ture. When it happens, it can be- Check Post monitors the marsh Proverbs for the New Millen- to do them. and with sketches by V. Vijaya- released in 2002. edge, trees of A. scholaris indicate The shrinking was accompa- * * * Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Purple come Chennai’s most significant and controls poaching of nium – Compiled from various Stars and Trees – First pub- kumar, the book was released in You can ask for the water in the lateritic soils nied by significant changes in The total assembly of micro- Swamphen and many species of outdoor recreation site. How- animals. – (Courtesy: Adyar traditional sources, this is a lished in 2007, this book traces 2008. It studies the history books by sending e-mails to of North Canara and hence hydrology in that the many organisms, plants and animals in herons, egrets and storks. There ever, a lot of effort and commit- Times) collection of Tamil sayings. A the link between the 27 asterisms behind some of the heritage bun- [email protected] the name kéra. In high like- channels that brought in the any habitat is considered its are cormorants and ducks, like ment are needed to achieve this. – R.J. Ranjit Daniels second collection has since been of constellation and galows of the city and the resi- lihood, this word kéra later brought out. the tree that is sacred to each. dents who made them famous. – Sriram V. stormwater were blocked. The biodiversity. The biodiversity of the Spot-billed Duck which are The Government of Tamil Care Earth Trust, Chennai (Continued on page 6) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS June 1-15, 2015 Keeping (Current Affairs questions are from the period May 1st to 15th. Questions 11 to 20 pertain to Chennai and Tamil the record Nadu.)

1. Name the daughter of Prince William, of the United Kingdom born on May 2nd. She is now the straight fourth in line to the British Grassmere – home of the Tamil Nadu Archives. throne. 2. Who prevailed in the ‘Fight of separate Record Office Accountant-General’s As the repository of a con- of Madras from 1678); and C.D. the Century’ at Las Vegas on May Awas constituted in 1805, Office (Select); and tinuous record, comprehending Macleane, Under Secretary to 2nd? when Lord William Bentinck Specificiations, etc. more than 250 years of British Government, was selected to 3. Name the former CEO of IT recommended the location of It also contains sets of Ga- connection, the Madras Record examine the records. The ‘Dis- giant Hewlett-Packard who the records in a set of apart- zettes of the Government of In- Office affords ample facilities posal number system’ was the recently became the first declared ments of the old ‘Fort Square’ dia and of the Fort St. George, for research work. R. Clerk in one fruit of his labour. About female candidate to seek the in Fort St. George, and placed Almanacs, Directories, Army 1789 and William Elliot in 1830 1894, A.T. Pringle, Assistant Republican Party's nomination them in charge of a Record- and Civil Lists and departmentl examined the records to com- Secretary, undertook to con- for next year’s US Presidential keeper assisted by 3 writers. In reports. pile their Standing Orders, tinue the work of Huddleston, election. 1826, they were removed to the The main functions of the Garrow in 1837 and and produced four more anno- 4. Rishi Sunak, who won from the ‘Pillar godown’, known as the Record Office are as follows: Huddleston in 1856 examined tated reprints of the 17th cen- Richmond constituency in the ‘Old Banqueting Hall’, the site (i) Preservation of records. – them for antiquities and the lat- tury records. The translation of British Parliament elections, is of the present Council Cham- The records are arranged in ter produced his Notes and Ex- Ananda Ranga Pillai’s Diary the son-in-law of which legendary ber. In 1888, the records were open racks, either as vol- tracts from the 17th century was undertaken by Sir Frederick Indian entrepreneur? shifted to the ground floor of umes or bundles of loose pa- records in five small volumes. In Price, and is continued by 5. Which artist’s painting Women the Secretariat buildings (va- pers between wooden 1860, Talboy Wheeler was de- Dodwell. In 1908-11, A. of Algiers has become the most cated by the Government Press planks. There is a specially puted to examine the records Galletti edited and published 15 expensive painting to sell at on its removal to the Mint with a view to shroff them. The volumes of Dutch Records. auction, going for $160 million? buildings), and arranged in To celebrate 375 years result of his examinations is Dodwell, as Curator, prepared a 6. Name the guitarist and singer, open record racks. The office of Fort St. George, Sriram embodied in his Handbook to the Report on the Madras Records called the ‘King of the Blues’, who was then known as the “Gen- V, Associate Editor of Madras Records, and Madras in and issued two volumes of Cal- passed into history recently. eral Record Office” (by reason Madras Musings, recently the Olden Times (containing in- endars of records covering 1740 7. Name the ousted Egyptian of its being common to and spoke at the Madras Book teresting extracts from the very to 1754. Among the outsiders President sentenced to death for serving all departments of the Club on ‘Books on Fort beginning up to 1748). He who utilised the Madras his part in a mass jailbreak in secretariat); and its establish- St. George’. Much of the made a collection of Sir Thomas Records for historical purposes research for those books 2011. ment formed part of the Chief Munro’s Minutes, afterwards may be mentioned: Professor 8. A type of fish called Opah, or was done in the Madras Secretariat. In 1902, the idea of Record Office, now the published by Sir A.J. Arbuth- Forest who made copious ex- Moonfish, was discovered re- centralising all important not. The next enquiry into the tracts regarding Clive, Colonel cently. What first has it achieved? Tamil Nadu Archives. records of permanent interest in Ramineni Bhaskar Rao records was initiated in 1886 by Love who produced in 1913 his 9. The Union Government has one place was started by S.C. sent us this piece on the C.G. Master (Member of Coun- monumental Vestiges of Old given its assent for disinvestment Hill, officer in charge of the Record Office which cil, and a descendant of Sir Madras, and Mrs. Frank Penny of 10 per cent in which oil major? Records of the Government of appeared in the Madras Streynsham Master, Governor for her work on Fort St. George. This could bring it Rs. 7932 crore. India, during the Viceroyalty of Year Book, 1923. 10. In which Indian State capital Lord Curzon; and the Govern- is Google to build its second-big- ment of Madras in 1907 trained staff to mend the gest campus in the world and the materialised the proposal, by older records. The City’s green first in Asia? sanctioning the construction of (ii) Supply of records. – Records * * * a separate building for the hous- are furnished to the offices 11. Name the freedom fighter ing, of not only the secretariat concerned on requisitions; landmarks who climbed the 148-foot tall records, but also those of the but applications from pri- need a liaison letter ch at the flagstaff in Fort St. George on (Continued from page 5) Board of Reveue and the vate persons for copies of end of pasumai. January 26, 1932 and unfurled records have to be made to the Indian tricolour. Collectorates. The inaugura- The book Living Landmarks tion of the present office was the departments concerned 12. In Madras, Pully, Boatman, evolved into Kerala, although in Chennai is an excellent con- carried out by C.M. Schmidt, and not the Madras Record ‘Kerala’ is widely believed to cept with a wealth of details. Trivatore and were all Office direct. Research gates on the…? the Registrar of the Chief Sec- derive from nãlikéra (the coco- Overall, the book meets its retariat who continued in scholars are afforded special 13. Which academic institution nut). promise of being a plant hand- charge. In 1909, the Madras facilities. On pages 80-81, references book for popular readership, is housed in a campus called The (iii) Publications – The follow- Cloisters? Record Office was constituted to plaasa (Sanskrit) or purasaa linking trees to heritage and on an independent basis with a ing have been issued: (Tamil) occur. I would have culture of Madras for a common 14. The book Four Score and (1) Press Lists (brief ab- More chronicles the history of separate establishment; and in liked to see the name of the person, compressing many de- 1910, a full-time Curator was stracts) of all Government suburb spelt ‘Purasappakkam’ tails in the short space made which venerable institution in records from 1670 to 1800, Chennai? approinted, Henry Dodwell, and not by the corrupted name available for textual material. issued in 35 volumes. 15. Following which reforms of M.A., an officer of the Educa- Purasaiwalkam. The author and publishers tional Department, being the (2) Reprints (exact repro- My knowledge of Tamil richly deserve our thanks and 1919 did Madras become the first dcution in print) of and se- province of British India to imple- first incumbent of that office. grammar is less than average; kudos for developing an attrac- lections from the ancient ment a system of diarchy? * * * yet, I felt that the words pasumai tive and useful handbook for records of the 17th, 18th and The Madras Record Office con- and chinnangal in the book title the residents of Madras. 16. Rajagopala Tondaiman was the early 19th Centuries, the last ruler of which kingdom in tains the records of – comprising Consultations, the Madras Presidency? 1. The Government Secre- Despatches, Letter-books, tariat (except those of the 17. Why is Fort St. David in Cud- Sundries, etc. 112 volumes. Till June 30: Paintings by Raja (at dalore named after the saint? last 5 years which are re- (3) Calendars (i.e. chrono- DakshinaChitra). tained in the Record June 5-29: Art exhibition by N.S. 18. Which was the first residence, logically arranged abstracts apart from , on Branch of the Secretariat). Manohar, Kumbakonam (at to facilitate historical re- the beachfront between Fort St. The earliest date back to Till June 30: Baramasa, an exhibi- DakshinaChitra). search) of the Madras re- George and San Thome? 1670. tion of contemporary artists ex- June: Photography/art exhibition cords subsequent to 1740, 2 by Gita (at DakshinaChitra). 19. The Krishnagiri and Sathanur 2. The Board of Revenue – ploring the moods inspired by volumes. dams are built across which river? older ones. different seasons (at Apparao DakshinaChitra workshops (4) Translation of the Diary Galleries, Nungambakkam, and 20. Yellaikalai Vistharitha Yezhu- 3. The Collectorates, upto For Adults: in Tamil of Ananda Ranga The Leela Palace). June 6-7: Kasuti Embroidery thukalaignan is a documentary on 1820. Pillai, Dubash of Dupleix, Till June 30: The Art of Chess, an which Jnanpith Award-winning 4. Dutch and the Danish; For Children: commencing from 1736. 8 exhibition of chess sets created writer? Carnatic (in Persian); June 13: Stencil-making and volumes. by contemporary artists (at High Court (Select); Apparao Galleries). T-Shirt Printing (8-14 yrs) (Answers on page 8) * * * June 1-15, 2015 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 The Trust that helps a 300-year-old school (By A Special Correspondent) nglo-Indians are an served in India, so, in some ways St. George’s Anglo- St. George’s School today. Aindependent lot. They’ve Indian Higher Secondary she was following in their foot- had to be, because as a distinct School, , is steps. On her return to En- homes who had missed parts of cility for boys. It also pays fees minority community they have celebrating its 300th year gland, she set up a charity called their schooling or were held for Batemans children to go to upheld separate traditions from this year. One of the the Batemans Trust, to support back by emotional problems. So local Anglo-Indian schools, those around them. For many, strongest supporters of children living in St. George’s the charity set up an Open universities, colleges and voca- this spirit of free thinking and the institution is the focus boarding home, to train teach- School with counsellors and tional courses. Batemans admits sometimes sheer bloody-mind- of this article. ers and to pay fees for children progressive teaching to help some needy children from other edness has brought great suc- who otherwise probably would them pass the exams needed for backgrounds, but Anglo-Indian cess, but for others it has led to Madras from the UK to help the not go to school. entry into further education or youngsters remain a priority. problems: irregular family lives, Anglo-Indian children at St. However, Alex was painfully vocational qualifications. These include children like broken homes and neglected George’s School in Shenoy aware that some children were Today, the charity also runs Robert whose father and bro- children. Nagar. Several generations of being overlooked, not least boarding accommodation for ther disappeared, leaving him In 1994, Alex Jacob came to Alex’s military family had Anglo-Indians from broken girls and a separate boarding fa- and his illiterate mother living and working on a construction site. Then there is Eileen, who came to Batemans after her father disappeared, her mother Know your Fort better later dying when she was at school. Batemans gave her a home and an education thro- ughout a difficult childhood and today she is a confident gra- duate working for a communi- cations company. Many others have suffered abuse, bereave- ment and neglect – but are now thriving thanks to Batemans. In recent years, Batemans has operated separately from St. George’s, but many of the old traditions still continue. For ex- ample, Batemans children at- tend St. Mary’s Church at Fort Moat between St. George’s ravelin and Pigot Bastion with High Court in the The moat in all its glory in c. 1900 (Courtesy: Vintage Vignettes.) St. George every Sunday, just as distance. (Courtesy: Ismena R. Warren, from The Story of Fort St George the children of St. George’s by Lt. Col. D.M. Reid.) several changes to its natural course, becoming a part of Cochrane’s have done for more than 200 Canal, which eventually became . years. And many ‘old boys’ from (Continued from page 1) That the water for the moat came from the river and later the St. George’s now support Bate- Buckingham Canal is clear if you wander off in the direction of St supplied with water from the Cooum but ‘as no walls or bastions mans in recognition of the work George’s Gate. There you will see a rusting lock, with most of its they do for the Anglo-Indian were raised above this moat, it was not of much use as a protec- shutters having vanished. This was lowered and raised to regulate tion.’ That this was not in any way a deterrent is attested by the community. As for Alex, she is the tide in the moat. Now, with the Buckingham Canal and the married to an Anglo-Indian historian Orme who observed that when the French came in 1746, Cooum both having lost their water, the moat has gone dry. But ‘the naked ditch remained neither an obstruction nor defence.’ from Madras, with whom she the part closest to the lock still retains some water and, therefore, has three children. The hectic construction activities of the 1750s, in the after- plenty of vegetation and some bird life. When Mrs Penny wrote math of the return of Madras to the British, saw attention being Batemans has successfully her book, the wagtail was apparently the most common bird in the helped scores of children to be- paid to the moat. When the French returned in 1758 under Comte moat, building its nests in the crevices of the wall, where the water de Lally, action was seen around the water body, which by then come emotionally and finan- plants afforded it sufficient privacy. Fishing in the moat too was a cially independent and pre- was complete along the western and northern faces of the Fort. common recreation for the soldiers in the Fort, as evinced by pho- Mrs Penny quotes from a letter of Henry Vansittart to Robert pared for a life in modern India, tographs taken in the early 1900s. Another feature, long gone, is whilst enabling them to hold on Clive, written in the final days of the siege, which the British suc- the wooden drawbridges that connected mainland to the Fort, cessfully withstood, ‘They had opened a narrow passage through to their Anglo-Indian heritage: across the moat. These were present at the Wallajah, St George’s the children sing and perform, the counterscarp of the ditch by a mine, and had beat down so and North Gates and, according to Mrs Penny, these were ‘a terror much clay from the face of the demi-bastion, that there was a slope bake and make European food to the inexperienced horse when his ears are assailed by the thun- and learn to eat with a knife and that a nimble man might run up, and that is what M Lally calls a der of his iron-shod hoofs on the wooden platform as he crosses to breach; but his people were wiser than he, if he proposed to assault forks as well as with their hands. enter the low, deep gateway.’ So what next? Alex and the it, and they refused. This was probably near the St George’s Gate In the 1990s, during routine conservation work in the Fort, a of the Fort, located at the northwestern angle, for David Leighton Madras-based Batemans team tunnel was discovered running parallel to the moat between are passionate about expanding in his Vicissitudes of Fort St George (1902) has all the action with Wallajah Gate and the northwestern point. This has regular open- the French in that area. this help to more children. ings at intervals at ground level connecting to it by flights of steps. However, increasing costs in The present moat or ditch owes its existence to the extensive The tunnel, with a height of 2m and a width of a metre, has since renovations to the Fort, commenced in the 1760s rather ironically Madras make this challenge been interpreted as having been constructed for the facilitation of more difficult. While develop- after the last siege to be ever faced by it had ended. John Call, who arms movement. The water in the moat kept the gunpowder cool was then the Chief Engineer, envisaged a wet ditch, 50 feet broad ment has brought rising wealth and prevented it from heating up and exploding in the Madras for some, it has also led to more and seven feet deep, to be commenced from St George’s bastion, summer. That this was no secret even in the 1940s is evident from which marks the northwestern angle of the Fort. poverty to many. Lt Col Read’s The Story of Fort St George (1946). He calls the To secure its future and to All accounts of the moat/ditch, except Leighton’s, agree that attention of the casual visitor to the regular openings that he terms the first versions did not have water. Dismissing the Leighton ver- expand, Batemans intends to as loopholes. The tunnel, according to him, was used to position build its own school on Madras sion as an error, we are left with the question of where the water sharpshooters who through the loopholes could shoot any enemy for the moat came from, when it first became a wet, as opposed to outskirts with boarding facilities who came close to the walls. that will help 350 children and a dry, ditch. The water initially came from the Elambore River that The southern side of the moat was filled up in the 1860s to ran along the western side of the Fort. In the 1700s, when the Fort young people at any one time. make way for the military hospital that stands in the shadow of the The plans include an open had become rectangular, the river had been diverted to form the Fort amidst a clump of trees. The rest of the moat is still intact but moat. A few years later, the Fort had extended beyond the river, school, primary school, teacher it is in a state of decay. In October 2014, the Archaeological Sur- training, boarding and roaming which divided into two, one arm ending inside the Fort and the vey of India and the Army announced a joint plan to clear the other flowing along the west face and then into the sea. During the educational provision. For fur- moat of vegetation, free it of the drainage from the Fort and re- ther details www.batemans. 1760s, when the final reconstruction of the Fort began, the river store it. This is yet to make headway. was partly filled to facilitate the present shape and the water was org.uk – (Courtesy: Anglos in the made to flow around to form the moat. The river was to suffer – Sriram V. Wind) 8 MADRAS MUSINGS June 1-15, 2015 An early American connection rrived at Madras after a thence, such as long cloth, isery Apassage of 111 days from – As recorded (izarrees), handkerchiefs of dif- Salem (MassaClusetts). Dis- in the Journal ferent kinds, and book muslin... tance run per log, this passage, In quality the manufactures of 14,240 miles. of the Belisarius, Madras far exceed those of Ben- On arriving at Madras, the 1799-1800 gal. Government Boat comes along- Fort St. George is a hand- side. The officers come on trade, which is carried on from some brick fortification. It board and receive such infor- hence to all parts of India – to appears very strong, but is prob- mation as is required, respecting Europe and America. There ably too much extended to Belisarius of Salem, attributed to Guiseppi Fedi, Italy, c. 1797. Dudley the vessel, cargo, passengers, were 50 to 70 vessels here, load- make as able a defence as might Pickman sailed as supercargo of the Belisarius, owned by the Crowninshield etc. and on their return and re- ing and unloading, all the time otherwise be done. It contains a family, on the voyage to Madras in 1799. (Peabody Essex Museum. Gift of port, a boat is sent off. No per- of our stay. Many of them were regular built town, containing G.S. Silsbee, 1898.) son is permitted to land before small, and very few belonged several houses, many stores, derable gardens adjoining. One Europeans in every capacity, this is done, nor before the ship here. shops etc. besides an English which costs 6,000 pounds from the lowest menial servants is brought to the proper anchor- Rice is brought in large quan- Church, the Government of- sterling was not thought extra- to head dubashes, where they ing ground, opposite the Cus- tities from Bengal, some China fices, and accommodations for vagant for a man not in the first have almost the entire direction tom House. On landing, report goods from Canton, pepper from the troops. The buildings (are) class of wealth. The Portuguese of their business with the is made at the Custom House. Sumatra, and European goods of brick, generally lofty and spa- and Armenians who live in natives. As writers and accoun- Madras (called by the and liquors direct from cious. No black is permitted to Black Town have generally tants, they are very neat and natives, Chilli-patam) is the and Maderia in the (British East go into the Fort in a palanquin; handsome houses, some of correct. They are employed in capital settlment of the English India) Company and India ships. they must walk in from the them three stories. They are all all counting houses and public on the Coast of Coromandel. It of brick or stone, and are built offices, but generally are over- consists properly of two towns – G By Dudley L. Pickman as airy as possible. The second seen by an European book- Fort St. George and the Black story contains the drawing and keeper. (Excerpted from Yankee Town. In the Fort, which con- The principal exports are in gates. All the European mer- dining rooms. India American Commercial and tains a regular built town, are all piece goods, at Madras, , chants have their stores in the The natives are very dark, Cultural Encounters with India in the offices of government (ex- and Ventepollam handker- Fort. They generally live a few with coarse black hair, which the Age of Sail 1784-1860 by cept the Custom House), the chiefs, blue guineas, camboys or miles from the Fort in the grows to a considerable length. Susan S Bean) stores of the European mer- checks, nicanies or stripes, country. They are employed by the (To be concluded) chants, etc. In the Black Town punjum cloths (white) etc. Pep- The town outside the Fort is live the natives. All Govern- per, spices, sugar, etc. imported called the Black Town. It is ir- CHENNAI HERITAGE ment orders issued from Fort St. from other parts of India are regularly built. The streets are George – and the Europeans some-times re-exported. The narrow and unpaved, many of No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 generally use the same, instead finest goods of India are manu- them dirty, though not very I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / of Madras. factured in the neighbourhood generally so. The habitations of I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it Madras... is a place of large of Madras, and exported from the poorest class of natives are hereafter. made of mats – are about thirty G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 or forty feet circumference and (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, Answers to Quiz MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the year six or eight feet high – the door 2015-16. three or four feet by two. They G 1. Princess Charlotte of Cambridge; 2. Floyd Mayweather, Jr.; 3. Carly As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment Fiorina; 4. N.R. Narayana Murthy of Infosys; 5. Pablo Picasso; 6. B.B. cook in them – the smoke going and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai King; 7. Mohammed Morsi; 8. It is the world’s first fully warm-blooded out between the mats. In one of Heritage an additional Rs...... fish; 9. Indian Oil Corporation; 10. Hyderabad. these dwells a whole family; (Rupees ...... ) Please keep/put me * * * there are but a small proportion on your mailing list. 11. ‘Arya’ K. Bhashyam; 12. The Black Town Wall; 13. Stella Maris who live thus miserably. Many Name : ...... College; 14. Music Academy; 15. Montague-Chelmsford reforms; 16. have low one story houses, built Address: ...... Pudukkottai; 17. Because the Governor of Madras at the time of its pur- of brick and plastered outside...... chase in 1690, Elihu Yale, was Welsh and named it after the patron Saint The rich natives have large, All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be sent by of Wales; 18. Capper House; 19. Thenpennai; 20. 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