theGUIDE

AUTUMN 2015 A GUIDE TO BRITAIN FROM BRITAIN’S BEST GUIDES

MAXINE’S MANCHESTER ACTOR MAXINE PEAKE

THE BLOODY HISTORY OF MEDICINE • LONDON’S LINKS WITH THE USA • THE STORY OF SCIENCE IN CAMBRIDGE • LEGENDS, LIES AND LORE 7KHSHUIHFWRNjHUWKLVKROLGD\VHDVRQ*URXSVVDYH 7KHSHUIHFW RNjHU WKLV KROLGD\ VHDVRQ *URXSV  VDYH 

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020 7845 9300 Registered Charity 214005 ballet.org.uk/nutcracker *Valid Mon – Thu mat & eve, and Fri mat only Front cover photo: Jon Gorrigan 16 4 British GuildofTourist Guides ©2015 Publisher: Editorial Assistance: E: [email protected] Editor: Email: theguide association for BlueBadgeGuides(thehighest guidingqualificationinBritain.) thenational This magazineisproduced by theBritishGuildofTourist Guides– MyFavourite… 34 Tour deForce 26 From Superstition toScience 16 Legends, Lies andLore 14 Interview 8 4NewsContents NLN ODNWLSNORTHERN WALES LONDON ENGLAND Blue BadgeGuidesonlibraries, cemeteries andchapels links withtheUSAandstory ofscience inCambridge Two BlueBadgeguidestell usabouttheirtours: London’s the history ofmedicine From pigeondroppings to penicillin,MarkZakianuncovers Fact andfictionfrom Britishhistory library changedherlife Actor MaxinePeake tells ushow auniqueManchester anniversary; Liverpool’s ‘HarryPotter’ churchA fullofclowns; Santa ontherun;aWonderland Marc Zakian @ Mark King blue-badge.org.uk •www.britainsbestguides.org 31 IRELAND 8 Blueprint Travel MediaT: +441743 231135 Display advertising: W: www.mypec.co.uk T: +44113257 9646 MYPEC Design andprint: CTADGREENBADGE SCOTLAND

ISSN: 2053-0439 these storieswill encourage you totakeatourwith science orthearts inany partofBritain, Itrustthat unique library collectioninthecity. history ofManchester andherconnectionswitha Maxine Peake whotellsusofherpassionforthe progress from superstitiontoscience. history ofmedicalpractice inBritain, chartingits medicine. InthisissueMarc Zakiantraces the about thisscientificrenaissance. and want togoCambridgediscover more 17th century (Newton, Wren, Hooke, Boyle etc) by theextraordinary flourishing ofscienceinthe History ofScience museums. NowIamfascinated say thatItooknointerest inOxford’s PittRivers or changing scientificdiscoveries. Cambridge hasbecomepre-eminent inworld- graduate myself, Iamkeentoknowwhy unlocks auniquehistory. As anOxford (History) might live’. reads: ‘An American citizen whodiedthatEngland Britain 10days afterjoiningup. Hismemorial enlisted asaCanadiananddiedintheBattleof bobsleigh championwhofalsifiedhispapers, commemorates BillyFiske, theUSOlympic to aplaquethatIalways showvisitors. It Thanksgiving service inNovember. Itisalsohome to the American communitywithanannual between Britainand America. brings hisjournalisticeye totheconnections written several guidebookstoLondonandhe strong connectionstotheUnitedStates. Steve has Steve Fallon entertaininglyuncovers placeswith issue Boston-bornLondonBlueBadgeguide, Guides, many ofourguidesare notBritish. Inthis and from Cardiff toCaithness. right across thecountry; from LondontoLiverpool fact thatwehave over 1,000membersworking Guild of Tourist Guides. This new namereflects the of ourgreat country. whose secrets andstorieshelpunlockthehistory to findoutaboutthework ofBlueBadgeguides as beinganentertainingread, itisanopportunity Welcome toanothereditionof The Guide. As well TO ‘THEGUIDE’... A WARM WELCOME a BlueBadgeguide. So whetheryou are interested inmedicine, In ourmaininterview wespeak toactress Scientific research has changedtheworld of While Iwas anundergraduate, Iamashamedto Rosie Zanders’ story aboutscienceinCambridge London’s StPaul’s Cathedral maintainsitslinks Though weare theBritishGuildof Tourist We recently changedournametotheBritish British GuildofTourist Guides Philippa Owen, Chairto the 3 NEWS History, Culture and Events

Catherine Cartwright, Blue Badge Guide BLUE BADGE TOURIST GUIDES Blue Badge Tourist Guides are the official, professional tourist guides of the United Kingdom – recognised by the local tourist bodies and VisitBritain. The Blue Badge RED NOSE SUNDAY is the UK’s highest guiding qualification, awarded only after extensive training Every year, clowns gather for a service attend in full clown costume. The and thorough examination. at east London’s Holy Trinity Church in public is welcome at the service that There are over 1000 Blue Badge Guides Dalston. The service, which takes place mixes prayers with pratfalls and in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern on the first Sunday in February, is in slapstick. The clowns perform for Ireland – each region has its own badge. memory of Joseph Grimaldi – the most everyone at the end of the memorial. We guide in all the UK’s major tourist popular entertainer of the early 1800s This year’s service takes place on attractions, as well as its cities and and the first British clown. Grimaldi Sunday 7 February 2016 at 3.00pm. countryside. created the familiar white-faced make- Arrive early as the press up used by nearly all modern clowns. photographers come out in force In 2014 Guild guides The event attracts hundreds of and take up a large section of worked with over performers from all over the world who the church. 1.5 million UK visitors

The Blue Badge is the qualification of excellence in heritage guiding. The British Guild of Tourist Guides is the national association of Britain’s Blue Badge guides. Since its foundation in 1950, the Guild has dedicated itself to raising and maintaining the highest professional standards. Our guides work in the UK’s museums, galleries, churches and lead walking, cycling and driver-guided tours throughout the country. Our members work in over 30 different languages. If it can be guided, we will guide it.

To find out more or to book: +44 207 403 1115 [email protected] www.britainsbestguides.org

4 from around the UK Alice books into British Library 2015 marks the 150th anniversary of the publication of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. The British Library is celebrating the occasion with an exhibition that investigates the way Alice has captured the public imagination. Lewis Carroll’s children’s fantasy has been adapted, appropriated, re-imagined and re- illustrated many times since it was first published in 1865. The book continues to Manchester United Foundation inspire writers, illustrators and film-makers. Santa Run at Old Trafford The exhibition features Carroll’s original manuscript with hand-drawn illustrations, as well as stunning editions by Mervyn Peake, Ralph Steadman, Leonard Weisgard, Arthur Rackham, Salvador Dali and others. SANTA CAUSE The exhibition opens on 20 November and runs until 31 January 2016. There will Thousands of Santa Clauses will be Former Manchester Utd player, also be a Wonderland pop-up shop in the running through parks and streets across Denis Irwin British Library Entrance Hall. the UK this December in a series of charity For an Alice in Wonderland Tour in fun runs. Oxford, London and other locations visit: The season starts on November 29 in the London and the Thames. There are medals

www.britainsbestguides.org Board Robinson (1907) © The British Library by Charles Lake District at Windermere’s Jingle Bell up for grabs for the winners and the entry Jog, with Santas, elves, reindeer and fairies fee includes your own Santa suit. Info from circling the lake. 209events.com illustrated in Wonderland Adventures page of Alice's The title Birmingham offers both a run and – for Football fans can join Manchester the less energetic – a Santa stroll along United’s charity Santa run on Sunday the city canals on December 5. On the December 13. The race around Old Trafford same day in London, 2000 Father stadium will be started by Christmases will assemble in Battersea United legend, Denis Irwin Park for the annual 6k ‘Red & White’ www.mufoundation.org/santarun bearded charge, raising money for There are over 100 charity Santa runs disabilitysnowsport.org.uk around the country, for more information On December 6, urban Santas will be about these runs and to find a local dash The Wonderland postage stamp case designed running from City Hall around the Tower of visit santadash.co.uk by Lewis Carroll (1889-1890)

St George’s Hall, Liverpool Dubbed the ‘new Harry Potter filmed at Warner Bros. studios in film’, the JK Rowling book Leavesden, Hertfordshire. Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find JK Rowling has written the Them is currently being made into screenplay herself and the film a movie. stars British Oscar winner, Eddie The story recounts the Redmayne as Newt Scamander, a adventures of writer Newt magizoologist who arrives in Scamander in New York’s secret New York on his journey to find community of witches and magical creatures. wizards. Filming is taking place in The first film in the Fantastic the UK, with Liverpool’s buildings Beasts trilogy is due out in 2016. such as the grand, neo-classical St For a Harry Potter tour in George’s Hall standing in for 1920s Liverpool or across the UK visit: Mersey Beasts New York. Other scenes are being www.britainsbestguides.org

5 6 7 Actor Maxine Peake tells Sophie Campbell how a unique local history library changed her life Interview: Maxine Peake Interview: MANCHESTER’S MARVELLOUS MAXINE

When the Conservatives won the of the most compelling actors of her ‘politics is so time consuming, Maxine, general election last May, the actor generation, was born in a little town and if you’ve got ambitions for acting, Maxine Peake drowned her sorrows near Bolton. When her parents split it’s all or nothing’.’’ not at the pub, but at the Working and her mother remarried, 15-year-old Peake joined the local youth theatre, Class Movement Library (WCML) in Maxine moved to Salford to live with then worked with a couple of amateur Salford. “We all went for a cuppa and I her beloved grandfather Jim. theatre companies in Bolton, only felt as if we were at a funeral,” she says, “In my late teens I joined the Salford leaving when she finally got into “but we talked it through and I came branch of the Communist Party and RADA. But rather than settling in out feeling so much better. We are all went to meetings at the Library,” she London, in 2009 she moved back to under the banner of the Left, but it’s said while talking to me from the set of her home city with her art director not about ramming politics down your a Comic Relief shoot in Plymouth. partner Pawlo Wintoniuk. throat or making you sing the Red “Ruth and Eddie were then still in A few years later she was asked to Flag. It’s truly educational.” attendance. They knew my have her photograph taken The WCML began as the private grandfather, who was also a member somewhere that meant something to collection of two lifelong Communist of the Party, and he was a huge her. Wintoniuk said ‘what about the Party members, Ruth and Eddie Frow. influence on me and my politics.” Library?’ So she rang them and they During the 1950s it became a magnet She remembers an amazing group were delighted. for researchers and in the 1980s the of people, like Henry Suss (a Jewish Peake is unusual for an actor with council rehoused the collection in a Mancunian who campaigned tirelessly such a successful film, TV and stage magnificent Victorian building in on the Spanish Civil War and slum career in that she has stuck to her Salford. housing). “It was fascinating and northern roots and retains her Bolton The Library – which holds a unique progressive, but by the time I knew accent. She is an associate artist at record of three hundred years of them, they were all elderly. I was in the Manchester Royal Exchange and in Manchester’s working people’s Party for about three years, then I went 2014 participated in a fund-raising day history – depends on volunteers. It is to London and got very self-absorbed, of Radical Readings & Salford Stories at always struggling for funds, so support as most actors do!” the Library with Sheila Hancock and from famous local actors and Her grandfather advised her not to fellow Lancastrian Christopher celebrities is welcome. get involved. “He knew I was Eccleston. She’s funny and self-

www.britainsbestguides.org Peake, widely considered to be one committed to drama by then. He said deprecating in conversation, studiously 8 Peake is unusual for an actor with such a successful film, TV and stage career in that she has stuck to her northern roots

9 Interview: Maxine Peake Interview:

Royal Exchange Theatre, Manchester

underplaying her success. to gain access to the countryside for Looking at early episodes of ordinary people. Led by the Ramblers’ Dinnerladies on YouTube, the young Association, they took direct action on Peake, as cast by Victoria Wood in her Kinder Scout and Winter Hill near first part after drama school (‘5ft 7” and Peake’s home town. 15 stone: I think that’s why I got the She is also a supporter of the job, because I was large’), is National Clarion Cycle Club, formed in unrecognisable. She lost weight after 1895 as a social club for working class the doctor warned her of high blood cyclists beginning to find their freedom pressure, going on to play Veronica in on wheels. “It’s still going,” she says, Shameless, the Moors murderer Myra “one group meets at Pendle where Hindley, (southern) barrister Martha there’s an open Sunday and you can Costello in Silk and an acclaimed go along for a cup of tea.” Hamlet at the Royal Exchange. This Cycling led her, indirectly, to writing. The Frows year she joins a sensational BBC cast as “We both like cycling,” she says, “My Titania in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. boyfriend’s always on eBay looking at That hasn’t stopped her being wires and cogs and he gave me a interested in all things political. She biography of Beryl Burton for my says she’s picked up more history at birthday.” Burton, who worked on a the Library than she learned in school. rhubarb farm in Yorkshire, is the most “Peterloo, obviously,’”she says, successful female British cyclist ever, referring to the 1819 massacre on St holder of seven world titles, 96 Peter’s Fields, Manchester, when an national titles and the 1967 National electoral reform demonstration was Time Trials record for men and women. mown down by sabre-wielding cavalry. “I went to a producer and said it “But also the ‘Battle of Bexley Square’ would be a fantastic idea for a play,” in Salford, when people marched on explains Peake. “She said ‘You do it!” the Town Hall.” I thought ‘Oh no, not another actor She is fascinated by the 1930s mass who thinks they can write,’ but I

www.britainsbestguides.org trespass movement and its campaign decided to try. I rewrote it about three Peterloo Scarf 10 Maxine Peake’s Beryl at West Yorkshire Playhouse

Samantha Power as Beryl Burton © Keith Pattison and West Yorkshire Playhouse

times. I enjoyed the writing but I didn’t enjoy being in something I’d written. Cycling led her, indirectly, to writing. ‘We Acting’s hard once you’ve got under both like cycling,’ she says, ‘My boyfriend’s the skin of a character that much. But the deal was me being in it.”It became always on eBay looking at wires and cogs a fine stage and radio play. and he gave me a biography of Beryl Burton There are two truly startling things about Maxine Peake. One is that she for my birthday’ played rugby league for Wigan Ladies RLFC for three years in her teens (she The Working Class Movement Library claims she was so much larger than the other girls on the netball court, she kept knocking players over.) But the really shocking one is that she had her own show-jumper. “It’s true, I did,” she says, starting to laugh, “I once told someone I used to have a horse and he said ‘Oh my god, you’re middle class!’ It was a hand-me-down pony called Smokey. I kept him in the field near our house. He was vicious, like a devil horse. I got quite a few rosettes, you know, third or fourth – probably just for turning up. They’d be going ‘that poor woman on that crazy horse’ but I kept going. That’s the thing you need. It’s not talent; it’s persistence.” Persistence (and talent) has taken Maxine Peake a long way. 11 Maxine played an acclaimed Hamlet at the Royal Exchange. This year she joins a sensational BBC cast as Titania in A Midsummer Night’s Dream Interview: Maxine Peake Interview:

Factfile

THE WORKING CLASS MOVEMENT LIBRARY 51 The Crescent, Salford (www.wcml.org.uk) is open Monday to Friday and some Saturdays. See website for tours and exhibitions.

MAXINE PEAKE will next be seen as a flame- haired newspaper editor in the Comic Relief series provisionally entitled Red Top.

Maxine Peake as Hamlet in Hamlet Photo: Jonathan Keenan

12 Sunderland is an ideal place for groups and coach parties who want to explore this vibrant city by the sea. Visitors will be surprised and delighted by its fascinating history, coastal scenery, beautiful green spaces, heritage and cultural attractions and world class events that bring Sunderland to life.

For more information on these attractions and to find out what other things you can see and do in Sunderland visit www.seeitdoitsunderland.co.uk

/seeitdoitsunderland @SeeitDoitSund HEDGE FUNDS LEGEN King Henry VIII was proud of his beard. In 1535 the king levied tax on his fellow Englishmen’s whiskers – the amount paid increased with the beard-grower’s standing in society – making facial hair a status symbol. The tax was reintroduced by Henry’s daughter Queen Elizabeth I, who felt that any beard with over two weeks’ worth of growth should be taxed. LIE

During the First World War British spies used semen as invisible ink

Carrots were not orange until 16th century. The FACTS AND medieval carrot was red or white. They were bred to be orange by Dutch farmers in honour of the popular royal house of Orange. orange BOOM A KNIGHT OUT WITH THE SW 14 ASPIRE TO N heaven When subjected to an electric current of 50 volts a cat’s tail always points towards the north. NDS For 238 years the tallest building in the world was Lincoln Cathedral. The 525 feet tall church spire was completed in 1311 ES, and held the record until it was destroyed by a storm in 1549. D THE FINAL STRAW AN In the 1800s London’s taxis were horse-drawn carriages. The 1831 Hackney Carriage Act made it illegal for drivers to feed their horse – except by hand from a bag of hay that they were obliged to carry on board at all times. When motor vehicles replaced the carriage, the law remained in place and cabs had to have space for a bale of hay in the boot. The Carriage Act was finally repealed in 1976; this also saw the end of the rule that when a taxi driver needed to pee he could stop a FICTION FROM BRITISH HISTORY policeman, who would shield him with his cape.

In 1348, at a Christmas tournament, King Edward III disguised himself as a pheasant, complete with HIGH Steaks flapping wings and real In 1617 James I was journeying from Scotland to London. His court stayed feathers. He was accompanied overnight at Lancashire’s Houghton Tower. That evening at a banquet the by his knights, who were hungry king drew his sword and commanded the pages to bring him some beef. The servants went down on their knees as they presented the meat and dressed as swans. King James said ‘arise, Sir Loin’ – knighting the loin of beef and giving the cut © The Graphics Fairy 2007 Fairy © The Graphics its name. Sadly this story is a Lancashire legend and the word probably comes WANS from the French ‘surloynge’ – ‘sur’, meaning ‘above’ and ‘loynge’ meaning ‘loin’. 15 Feature

Marc Zakian looks at the history of medicine in Britain from SUPERSTIT to Images courtesy of © Wellcome Foundation of © Wellcome Images courtesy

Hippocrates SC BLOOD, BANDAGES AND BODIES On 2 February 1685 King Charles II woke up feeling unwell. His doctors opened a vein and drew a pint of blood. Witnessing no improvement, they cupped another eight ounces of the sovereign’s blood and forced him to swallow antimony – the toxic metal made Charles vomit. The king was then given a series of enemas. His hair was shaved and his scalp blistered with a hot iron to drive down the bad humours, and pigeon droppings were applied to the soles of his feet to attract the falling humours. Another 10 ounces of blood was drawn and doctors administered forty drops of ooze from ‘the skull of a man that was never buried’. Finally, crushed stones from the intestines of a goat were forced down the royal throat. On 6 February the king died. Charles probably died from a stroke. The doctor’s treatments – which seem to us more like torture – may well have hastened his departure. But the king’s physicians regarded themselves as beyond reproach; they were the leading medics of their time, men of classical learning, whose curative traditions were passed on from the ‘Father of

www.britainsbestguides.org Medicine’ himself: Hippocrates.

16 Charles probably died from a stroke. The doctor’s treatments – which seem to us more like torture – may well have hastened his departure

ION IENCE Charles II © National Portrait Gallery II © National Portrait Charles

17 Feature

The Romans believed

Bathing and cupping that diseases such as cholera and the plague were A SENSE OF HUMOURS MEDIEVAL MEDICINE transmitted through bad airs For nearly 2000 years, British medicine was ruled by the The word ‘medieval’ evokes known as miasma – which ancient Greek principle of the humours. images of poverty, pestilence, eminated from rotting organic This is a theory that the human body is composed of four darkness and disease. For most matter. This idea gave us the elements: blood, yellow bile, black bile and phlegm. The key people these misfortunes were word malaria (literally ‘bad to health was balancing these factors; imbalance led to constant companions. air’ in Italian). The medical sickness and sick people were, literally, dis-eased. Some misfortunes, however, profession clung on to this So someone with too much ‘blood’ became sanguine, were inflicted by medieval theory until it was finally others were phlegmatic, bilious, choleric or jaundiced (from physicians. Medicine was tied disproved in the 1850s. the Latin for yellow). These words have lost their medical to ideas that were over 1000 meanings but are still used in modern English. years old and doctors Health was restored by draining the excessive humour. disdained practical cures. The most popular treatment was bleeding; removing blood A gentleman physician did not touch a person; his job was to by cutting a vein, cupping or attaching leeches – treatments talk to patients. His training involved learning Latin, debating that were still used by doctors as late as the 19th century. philosophy and swishing about in purple robes – not tackling Other methods included enemas and purges. Patients the dirty diseases of daily life. frequently died in a blitz of blood and vomit. Astrology was at the heart of medicine. Physicians consulted the heavens to calculate the best day to cure a headache (3 April) or treat blindness (11 April) – the planets determined the outcome. The word ‘disaster’ comes from ‘bad star’ in Greek. So when the plague struck England in 1348, medical professors blamed ‘the conjunction of Mars and Jupiter causing great pestilence in the air’. While medics had their heads in the stars, the Black Death scythed its way through England. Some doctors promoted remedies such as shaving a chicken’s backside and strapping it to a plague sore, bloodletting (providing, of course, that the patient’s horoscope was right), eating arsenic (highly poisonous) and drinking ten-year old treacle. In desperation, towns hired plague doctors. These were second-rate physicians or con-men, recognisable by their ‘protective suit’: a heavy overcoat, mask with glass-eyes, and a nose cone or beak stuffed with herbs and flowers to filter the miasma or bad air ‘carrying’ the pestilence. The plague doctors perished alongside the 1.5 million people – nearly half the population of England – who died in

Plague Doctor Plague Doctor the Black Death. 18 Bleeding ELF AND SAFETY Medieval man was profoundly superstitious. The world of bad spirits, divine providence and supernatural beings was as real for him as the ground he walked on. Bald’s Leechbook is a 9th century English medical textbook. Queen Anne Touching for the Kings Evil It details a cure for ‘elfsickness’, a disease inflicted by invisible sprites who would shoot tiny arrows into their victims causing them to waste away or freeze. Evil elves were blamed for all Trepanning kinds of maladies, including hiccoughs and the elf-stroke – a paralytic seizure, the origin of the word stroke. Christianity offered salvation from these bad spirits. Healing shrines and pilgrimages flourished and saints and martyrs were invoked for health. Each organ and complaint has its own saint; St. Vitus for chorea (epilepsy and seizures) and St Anthony for erysipelas (skin disease). One cure for demonic possession was trepanning. This involved drilling into the skull to allow the evil spirits to escape. Prehistoric Britons used flint tools to do this. Some people subjected to trepanning survived, and skulls have been found with bone grown back around the hole.

Scrofula was another ailment caused by evil spirits. Foundation All images © Wellcome Medieval people believed that the sovereign – whose body was considered divine – could cure this growth on the neck. The monarch would place their hands TAKING THE PISS on the victim in a ritual During the late Middle Ages known as ‘touching for urinomancy developed as a the king’s evil’. method for diagnosing diseases. The writer and wit Dr The colour, smell and consistency Samuel Johnson suffered of urine was thought to reveal an from scrofula. In 1712 he imbalance of the humours. received the royal touch Diabetes was diagnosed by the from Queen Anne. The frequency that people urinated. ceremony proved The 17th century Dr Willis referred ineffective and Johnson’s to it as the ‘pissing evil’; he would growth was removed taste patients’ urine to determine by surgery. its composition, noting that the urine of diabetics was ‘wonderfully sweet, like sugar or honey’. 19 Dentist Painting Feature

Robert Liston SHOCK AND GORE While doctors quacked away at the star charts and Hippocratic humours, the real medical heroes were the surgeons. Looked down on by the gentleman doctors, they were the craftsmen you called on when you needed a tooth pulled, a boil lanced or a broken bone set. In the middle ages, the man with the sharpest knife and finest cutting skills was the barber. He could cut off your hair and your warts at one visit. In 1540, the London Company of Barber Surgeons was formed. Their charter specified that no surgeon could cut hair or shave and that no barber could practice surgery, but both could extract teeth. Barbers received higher pay than surgeons. Surgery was brutal. An evening out at a public operating theatre became ghoulish entertainment, where audiences thrilled and chilled to the blood and screams. With no anaesthetic, operations were so gory that relatives and bystanders often fainted. Even the surgeon’s assistants – whose job it was to hold the patient down – sometimes fled the operating theatre. The celebrity bone cutter in early 1800s London was Robert Liston. Known as ‘the fastest knife in the West End’, he could remove a limb in 28 seconds and then hold the severed

The traditional red and white pole is one of the last links between barbers’ and surgeons. It represents the blood and bandages associated with barber’s historic job of pulling teeth and cutting limbs. Another link is the use of the title ‘Mr’ rather than ‘Dr’ by British surgeons. Byrne Skeleton in glass case, Crystal Gallery

20 stump up in the air to show the of the giant Charles Byrne. The 7’ 7” crowd. One patient, who needed a Irishman had travelled to England, bladder stone removed, ran from where his height turned him into a Liston’s operating table and locked celebrity. When Byrne’s health himself in the toilet. His fear was waned, Hunter asked him to donate understandable, as the operation his body. The giant refused, but after involved inserting a rod in the penis Byrne’s death Hunter bribed the and pushing the stone out. Liston undertaker to hand over the body. dragged him back to the table and Today the skeleton, with much of operated. Hunter’s surviving collection, is in the In December 1846 he performed Hunterian Museum at the Royal the first surgery in Europe using College of Surgeons in London. modern anaesthesia. Ether had been Hunter developed several pioneered in Boston before Liston innovative surgical procedures; he brought it to the operating theatre at also advanced the science of anatomy University College Hospital. and is regarded as ‘the father of The fear of surgery meant that scientific surgery’. people would live with ailments Before 1832, the only legally rather than be cut while conscious. available bodies for anatomical study One of Liston’s patients had a tumour in Britain were criminals condemned on his scrotum so large that he to death and dissection. Medical pushed it around in a wheelbarrow. schools could never secure the 500 The introduction of ether meant corpses they needed each year, so Nicholas Culpeper © British Museum people who had been too frightened anatomists like Hunter made deals in to undergo surgery came forward the dark underworld of London’s for operations. grave robbers. The resurectionists’ trade was so FLOWER POWER lucrative that body snatchers would Plants have been part of medicine since ANY-BODY THERE run the risk of fines and the Stone Age. Archaeologists have In 1783, John Hunter set up his imprisonment. To protect their found evidence of Neolithic surgical anatomy school and exhibition in relatives and friends, the bereaved amputations and have speculated that London’s Leicester Square. The Scot would watch over a grave after burial. they must have used pain-killing plants studied anatomy alongside his Cemeteries built watch towers, tombs such as the hallucinogenic Datura brother, performing dissections and were encircled with iron bars called (Thorn Apple) during the operation, analysing the progress of disease. mortsafes and bodies interred in and cleaned wounds using antiseptic Hunter also worked as a dental iron coffins. herbs like sage. doctor, transplanting teeth from poor In the 1820s, Burke and Hare During the Middle Ages monasteries people to wealthy clients. brought a new dimension to the trade provided hospitals for the sick. The Hunter’s London exhibition by murdering people and selling their monks cultivated cures in their physic included a collection of live animals. victims’ fresh corpses for medical gardens: coriander was used to reduce a When they died their skeletons were dissection. fever, stomach pains were treated with turned into anatomical specimens. Their macabre activities resulted in wormwood and mint, lung problems He collected and displayed some the 1832 Anatomy Act that permitted were medicated with liquorice and 14,000 exhibits, many of them unclaimed bodies and those donated comfrey, and horehound syrups were human. by relatives to be used for the study prescribed for colds and coughs. One exhibit Hunter was of anatomy. This law brought an end In 1649 Nicholas Culpeper published determined to have was the skeleton to body snatching. a book of natural medicine. He wrote

16TH CENTURY CURES • Retention of Urine – three large lice inserted into the penis. • Asthma – the lungs of a fox washed in wine, herb and liquorice.

Grave robbing John Hunter Images © Wellcome Foundation & The Royal College of Surgeons College & The Royal Foundation Images © Wellcome

21 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu with her son Feature

The Complete Herbal in English so it they denounced her as ‘illiterate’ and could be read by ordinary people and ‘unthinking’. his cures used local plants that were Posterity has shown that had the available to everyone. medical establishment not objected to a Culpeper apprenticed as a London woman ‘interfering’ in medicine, many apothecary and set up practice among lives would have been saved in the 80 the poor, often charging no fee for his year period before Jenner developed the Elizabeth Garrett Anderson herbal remedies. Apothecaries vaccination for smallpox. frequently diagnosed illnesses and On a July morning in 1865 a scream prescribed medication, but they charged rang out around Dr James Barry’s being discovered, even requesting that less money than physicians, infuriating house. For the past month the curtains no post-mortem be carried out on his Images © National Portrait Gallery Images © National Portrait the medical establishment. had been kept drawn in his bedroom corpse. But at the last the truth was, A colourful figure with strong on London’s Cavendish Square, and literally, uncovered. opinions, Culpeper died at age 38 from now the Inspector General of Military The Victorian pioneer, Elizabeth tuberculosis compounded by intensive Hospitals was dead. Garrett was determined to become a smoking of tobacco, an activity he had The charwoman, sent to prepare his physician. Her requests to study at promoted as a cure for coughs. corpse, pulled up his nightshirt to medical school were denied so she uncover a secret the doctor had enrolled as a nursing student, attending managed to hide for most of his life: classes intended for male doctors – but LADIES’ FIRSTS James Barry was actually a woman. was thrown out after complaints from The 18th century writer, Lady Mary Barry was one of the most highly fellow students. Wortley Montagu suffered from respected surgeons of his day. He had Garrett discovered that the Society of smallpox as a child. She survived, but risen from hospital assistant to top- Apothecaries did not specifically forbid lost her eyelashes and was scarred ranking doctor in the British Army – women from taking their examinations. for life. serving in garrisons from South Africa In 1865 she passed and gained a When her husband was made to Jamaica. ambassador to Turkey, she insisted on But James Barry was actually born travelling with him. The maverick Lady Margaret Ann Bulkley. Brought up by a ALL IN VEIN Mary defied contemporary notions of liberal family who believed in women’s Sir Christopher Wren made behaviour, disguising herself as a local rights and education, his family decided pioneering experiments with woman and venturing into the harems that Margaret would train as a doctor. crude hypodermic needles, and houses of Constantinople. Here This was a time when women were not performing intravenous she discovered that the women were permitted to enter university, so in 1809 injection into dogs in 1656. The vaccinating their children against Margaret assumed her uncle’s name, device – made with animal smallpox. Wortley arranged for her son James Barry, and enrolled in Edinburgh bladders (the syringe) and to be inoculated. as a medical student. goose quills (the needle) – was When she returned to England in Following graduation he joined the used to administer drugs such 1721 a smallpox epidemic broke out – army. By 1845 Barry was principal as opium. These early killing 30% of its victims. Lady Mary medical officer in the West Indies. experiments were generally convinced several female members of When the Crimean War broke out he ineffective and in some cases the royal family to be inoculated, but demanded to be sent to the front line. fatal and injection fell out of doctors did not want their authority Right until the end, Barry had done favour for two centuries. usurped by ‘a few ignorant women’ and everything to prevent the secret from 22 WALK IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF YOUR ANCESTORS Get closer to the mystery of Stonehenge at our new, state-of-the-art exhibition and visitor centre.

Nr Amesbury, Wiltshire

The English Heritage Trust is a charity, no. 1140351, and a company, no. 07447221, registered in England.

In 1632 William Harvey was sent to investigate a woman accused of being a witch. He asked whether she had a familiar. She put down a saucer of milk and called to a toad which came out and drank the milk. Hervey

Feature killed the toad and dissected it, concluding that it was a perfectly ordinary animal and not supernatural. The woman was angry and upset, but Harvey silenced her by stating that he was the King’s Physician, sent to discover whether she were a witch, and if she were, to have her apprehended.

William Harvey determination paved the way for by inoculating Phipps, the eight year other females, and in 1876 an act was old son of his gardener. He scraped pus passed permitting women to enter the from a cowpox on a milkmaid and used medical profession. it to inoculate the boy, who contracted a Florence Nightingale is regarded as mild fever. the founder of modern nursing. She He later injected Phipps with a small came to prominence while serving amount of smallpox. No disease during the Crimean War, where she followed. He repeated the experiment; organised the treatment of wounded again there was no sign of infection. He soldiers. There was no knowledge of had developed the medical science of germ theory at that time, but her vaccination (from vacca, Latin for cow). instinctive understanding of hygiene ALEXANDER FLEMING was a Edward Jenner led to her demanding clean wards and nutritious food for patients. Her research doctor at St Mary’s Hospital innovations reduced the death rate Medical School in London. In 1928, from infections by more than half. In while studying influenza, Fleming 1860, Nightingale laid the foundation of noticed that mould had developed her profession with the establishment accidentally on a set of culture dishes of her nursing school at St Thomas’ used to grow the staphylococcus germ. The mould created a bacteria-free Hospital in London. circle around itself. Fleming named the substance penicillin. MEDICAL MARVELS In the 1940s this research was developed into the first drug that could As science swept away medieval successfully combat serious infections. superstition and antiquated ideas, many Before penicillin, a bee sting that British doctors were at the forefront of became infected could kill you. The medical advancements. discovery was ranked as the most important of the 20th century and is WILLIAM HARVEY was the model Enlightenment physician. At the estimated to have saved some 200 beginning of his anatomy lectures he million lives. would read out his manifesto: the Alexander Fleming human body can only be understood by observation. certificate enabling her to become a In 1628 he published De Motu Cordis. doctor. The society immediately This book contains the first accurate Sir Hans Sloane was a British changed its rules to prevent women account of the circulation of the blood collector, doctor and physician to from joining the profession this way. and action of the heart. Modern Queen Anne (the poor woman In 1870, Garrett became visiting medicine would be impossible without had 17 children, none survived physician to the East London Hospital. this discovery. past the age of 11). Sloane’s Still determined to gain a doctor’s collection was bequeathed to the degree, she taught herself French and EDWARD JENNER was a rural nation to create the British graduated from the University of Paris. Gloucestershire doctor whose discovery Museum – his medicine cabinet The British Medical Register refused to is said to have ‘saved more lives than can be seen in the museum. It recognise her qualification. the work of any other human’. includes a lizard’s egg, ground In 1872, Garrett founded the New Jenner realised that the relatively mummies’ fingers (a cure for Hospital for Women in London, with an harmless cowpox infection milkmaids bruises) and rhinoceros horn as entirely female staff. Renamed after its caught from cattle protected the farm an antidote to poison. founder, it is now part of University girls from life-threatening smallpox.

Images © Wellcome Foundation & National Portrait Gallery, London Gallery, & National Portrait Foundation Images © Wellcome College Hospital. Garrett’s In 1796, Jenner tested his hypothesis 24 Visits

THE FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE MUSEUM is located at St Thomas’ Hospital London. Open to the public seven days a week the museum tells the story of the lady with the lamp’, from her Victorian childhood to her experiences in the Crimean, through to her years as an ardent campaigner for health reform. www.florence- nightingale.co.uk

ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS OF EDINBURGH was founded in 1505. The collection includes ‘natural Visits and artificial curiosities’ medical instruments, anatomical samples and a WELLCOME COLLECTION – digital dissection theatre. The LONDON newly renovated Surgeons’ Displays an unusual mixture of Hall Museums are open to medical artefacts and original the public. artworks exploring ‘ideas about www.museum.rcsed.ac.uk the connections between medicine, life and art’. wellcomecollection.org

HUNTERIAN COLLECTION – LONDON For an expert medical themed tour with a Blue In 1799 the government Badge Guide go to purchased the collection of John www.britainsbestguides.org Hunter which is displayed in the Royal College of Surgeons. The museum displays thousands of anatomical specimens, including the skeleton of the ‘Irish giant’ Charles Byrne, and many surgical instruments.www.hunterianmus eum.org

THE THACKRAY MEDICAL MUSEUM – LEEDS Located in a former workhouse built to accommodate 784 paupers, highlights include reproduction Victorian slum streets, surgery before anaesthesia and an interactive children’s gallery looking at how Interior of Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh of Surgeons College of Royal Interior the human body works; as well as the skeleton of Mary Bateman, the ‘Yorkshire Witch’, who was executed for fraud and Royal College of murder in 1809. www.thackraymedicalmuseum. Surgeons of Edinburgh co.uk was founded in 1505 25 Tour de force Tour

American-born Blue Badge Guide Steve Fallon looks at London’s transatlantic links FROM

Growing up in suburban Boston, Steve Fallon was BOSTON convinced that London was populated by bowler-hatted gentlemen and cockney villains. “I watched a lot of British TV programmes,” he explains. “They all seemed to feature aristocrats or gangsters, so I just assumed all Brits were like that.” Three decades later, Steve came to live in the UK. A career in journalism had taken him to Iron Curtain-era Poland (where the government kept a secret service file on him), Hungary (where he started writing guide books), Hong Kong, rural Essex and, in the year 2000, TO BOW Bow in east London. “I arrived at a great time,” he says. “The East End was full of energy and when the Olympic Games were

Words: Marc Zakian Marc Words: announced there was a real excitement about the place. 26 My partner and I were welcomed into a community that Quincy Adams married there in 1797 and his British-born still holds onto its cockney roots.” wife Louisa is the only non-American First Lady in the Steve was commissioned to write the Lonely Planet history of the United States. guide book’s London edition. This led him to become a “The religious pioneer, William Penn was baptised at Blue Badge tourist guide and he started to investigate the All Hallows in 1644. King Charles II gave Penn’s father connections between his native New England and his land in America that William used to found a Quaker new ‘old England’ neighbourhood. colony called Pennsylvania. Its main city, Philadelphia, “In many ways, the East End is the cradle of the became the United States’ first capital. American colonies,” says Steve. “The first 65 Pilgrim “The symbol of Philadelphia and American Fathers boarded the Mayflower near Rotherhithe in 1620. independence is the Liberty Bell. It was cast in 1752 in There is a riverside pub named after the ship, and its London’s East End at the Whitechapel Bell Foundry. The captain, Christopher Jones, is buried nearby in bell was shipped to America, where it cracked at the first St Mary's church. ringing. The foundry is still there – the oldest “Another Thames church with American links is All manufacturing company in Britain. Hallows by the Tower. The country’s 6th president John “The church with the strongest emotional ties to the 27 Tour de force Tour

Dwight Eisenhower Franklin Roosevelt

“The Roosevelt memorial was funded through subscriptions; the British public were so enthusiastic that all the money was raised in six days”

St Paul’s Cathedral

States is St Paul’s Cathedral. Its American Memorial Chapel Roosevelt is also commemorated in Bond Street, where he is commemorates the 28,000 soldiers who died on active shown ‘in conversation’ with Winston Churchill. service while based in Britain during WWII. “George Washington’s statue is in Trafalgar Square. The “I have a personal connection to the chapel via my father- rebellious Washington said he would ‘never set foot on in-law who served with US Army Airborne in Norfolk. He English soil’ and there is an urban myth that when his statue was bombed four times and saw several friends fly out, was erected in the 70s, Virginia soil was placed under the never to return. Their names are recorded in the chapel’s plinth. The British dislike for Washington is illustrated by a book of remembrance. It’s a poignant list of the fallen that story that during the decades after the Revolutionary War, moves many of my American clients to tears. every British embassy placed a portrait of Washington next “If you study the chapel wood carvings you will see to the urinal. representations of American flora and fauna; birds such as “London folklore is full of this kind of banter. There is an cardinals and American robins, which are much bigger than often repeated myth that when Robert P. McCulloch bought their British counterparts – supersized, like US cars. the 19th century London Bridge in the 1960s, he thought he “There is a very public reminder of the ‘special was getting Tower Bridge. McCulloch had a bill of sale and relationship’ in the form of the statues of American knew exactly what he was buying and, like a ‘typical presidents you see across London – seven at the last count. American’, he made lots of money by rebuilding the bridge Grosvenor Square, next to the US embassy, boasts three: as a tourist attraction in Lake Havasu in Arizona. Ronald Reagan, Dwight Eisenhower and Franklin Roosevelt. “One of London’s strangest memorials to Americans is on “The Roosevelt memorial was funded through Gloucester Place. It’s a plaque that reads: ‘Benedict Arnold, subscriptions; the British public were so enthusiastic that all American patriot resided here’. He was a British spy and the money was raised in six days. Roosevelt suffered from turncoat during the revolutionary wars and Americans spit polio in childhood and the Grosvenor Square statue depicts when they hear his name. Apparently the person who his disability. This was heavily downplayed in the States and attached the plaque to his house is a relative who is trying to Americans are surprised by such an honest representation. salvage Arnold’s reputation. I don’t think it’s working – he has had gruff phone calls from angry Americans. “One of my favourite transatlantic heroes is fellow New Englander, George Peabody, who came to London in the 1830s and set up a bank. He lost all his money in a financial crash, but was bailed out by the Bank of England. But it’s Peabody’s later philanthropic work that is his great legacy: he created the first social housing in Britain, giving £500,000 to establish homes for the ‘deserving poor’. “Peabody was loved in Britain and when he died was given a grand funeral in Westminster Abbey. But it was discovered that he actually wanted to be buried in his home town, so they transported his coffin to New England for reburial – the perfect symbol of how our nations’ histories are inextricably linked.”

28 American Memorial Chapel, St Paul’s Cathedral “The church with the strongest emotional ties to the States is For a tour with Steve Fallon visit: www.steveslondon.com St Paul’s For tours exploring your country’s links with London visit: www.britainsbestguides.org Cathedral” 29 KINGS, QUEENS, STATESMEN, SOLDIERS, POETS, PRIESTS, HEROES & VILLAINS

WESTMINSTER ABBEY A MUST-SEE LIVING PAGEANT OF BRITISH HISTORY

Book now at westminster-abbey.org A NOBLE AMBITION

For what was once a damp, insignificant and remote fen town on the edge of England, Cambridge is one of the Blue Badge UK’s great overachievers. And there is no area in which the city’s university has achieved more than in the field Guide Rosie of science. “There must be something ‘scientific’ in the city’s air,” Zanders tells says Blue Badge guide Rosie Zanders. “Cambridge colleges have produced 91 Nobel Prize winners; more us about than any other university in Europe – more than the whole of France.” Cambridge Trinity College boasts an astonishing 32 laureates, but University’s centuries before the Nobel avalanche, it was home to one of the world’s greatest scientists: Sir Isaac Newton. extraordinary “Newton was born in Lincolnshire on Christmas Day in 1642 – the same year that Galileo died,” explains Rosie. achievements “His widowed mother wanted him to run the family farm, but Newton hated the idea. So, with financial help in science from his uncle, he went up to Trinity College. 31 “There must be something ‘scientific’ in the city’s air, Cambridge colleges have produced 91 Nobel Prize winners” Tour de force Tour

King’s College, Cambridge

“In 1665, plague closed the university and Newton professor who arranged for him to join HMS Beagle on the returned home where – according to legend – he sat under five-year voyage that inspired his ideas about evolution – a tree, an apple fell on his head and the theory of gravity theories that are the foundation of modern life sciences. was born. “Darwin represented the last of the university’s “At the front of Trinity College is an apple tree said to be ‘gentleman scholars’ – men from wealthy families for whom taken from a cutting of the original ‘gravity tree’. The college science was an all-consuming interest, but not a profession. library has a first edition Newton’s Principia Mathematica; This changed in 1874 with the opening of the Cavendish often described as the most important science book ever Laboratory, the first purpose-built research and teaching written, this copy includes the great man’s hand-written laboratory in Britain. notes. In Trinity chapel there is a statue of the scientist “Named after the former Peterhouse college student who holding a prism – Newton also discovered the property of discovered hydrogen, the Cavendish belatedly brought light – and whenever I show this to young kids, they ask me proper experimental science to the university. It was if he did experiments with Toblerone. designed by James Clerk Maxwell, whose theory of “During the 17th century superstition and science were electromagnetic radiation led to the development of radio, inextricably linked. The man who wrote the theory of gravity TV and radar. spent half his time experimenting with alchemy. This was a “No other building can claim so many world-changing heresy – and Newton risked being tried and hanged – so he scientific achievements: in 1897 JJ Thomson discovered the did this work in secret. When the college dug up its garden electron at the Cavendish, paving the way for electronics to put in new cables, they discovered chemicals in the and the computer; Ernest Rutherford first split the atom in ground believed to originate from Newton’s alchemy this building, ushering in the nuclear age; and in 1953 it was experiments. where Crick and Watson determined the structure of DNA. “Newton’s brilliant ideas may have defined the modern “The pair announced the discovery of the double helix in world, but ‘scientific’ teaching at Cambridge was stuck in the The Eagle, across the road from the Cavendish. The pub has past. It was based on the study of ancient texts, not experiment and new discovery. In the 1800s one student defied these traditions with a radical new theory that he developed while at Christ’s College. “Charles Darwin failed his medical degree at Edinburgh because he could not stand the sight of blood. So his father sent to him Cambridge to study for the priesthood, but Darwin was more interested in local fenland beetles than the cloistered world of divinity. He befriended a botany

32 “In 1665 plague closed the university and Newton returned home where – according to legend – he sat under a tree, an apple fell on his head and the theory of gravity was born”

Cavendish Laboratory, Cambridge a corner dedicated to the duo and sells Eagle DNA beer, “Turing has since been officially pardoned and Hollywood brewed in their honour. recently paid tribute to him in the film The Imitation Game. “Charles Babbage was another Peterhouse graduate. In the This movie came out at the same time as The Theory of 1840s he drew designs for a Difference Engine, the first Everything, with actor Eddie Redmayne – himself a mechanical computer. The inventor didn’t have money to Cambridge graduate – winning an Oscar for his portrayal of construct his machine and it wasn’t built until The Science the world’s most famous living scientist: Stephen Hawking. Museum in London made one in 1985. Babbage was an “Hawking came to Trinity Hall as a postgraduate student eccentric inventor, who designed aquatic shoes for walking on in 1962. He had been diagnosed with Motor Neurone water – and nearly drowned while testing them – and an Disease and given two years to live. Hawking later became a aerial postal system using wires and church spires. Fellow of Gonville and Caius College, who made sure he “Another giant in the history of computing was Alan Turing. could continue his research and provided him with an He was a student and fellow at King’s College, where he adapted house where the wrote his book, A Complete History developed the ‘Turing Machine’ – the basis of all modern of Time. computing. Scruffy, solitary and shy, Turing would go on to be “The cosmologist is a living symbol of university science the key figure in breaking German secret codes during WWII, that started with Newton and continues today. For an achievement that shortened the war by several years. It is Cambridge guides it is a unique opportunity to tell the story to Britain’s shame that after the war he was put on trial for of people who created the modern world, and to talk about being gay – the conviction leading to his eventual suicide. the latest cutting edge research that is shaping our future.”

For a tour of Cambridge with Rosie Zanders contact her at: [email protected] For science-themed tours in other parts of the UK visit www.britainsbestguides.org

Newton’s tree 33 MY FAVOURITE ...BUILDING ...is the Newcastle upon Tyne Literary and Philosophical Blue Badge Guides show you their Society – known affectionately as ‘the Lit and Phil’. When you favourite places around the UK first enter the library it is a ‘wow!’ moment. Though I have been a member here for 20 years, I still admire the shelves and cases housing more than 160,000 books, most of which I have yet to read. Little has changed here since the late 19th century (apart from the online catalogue system) and it is a great place to meet friends. Tea, coffee and cake are served from a hatch next to the small kitchen. It’s like a club – without the formality – and ...CEMETERY conversation is welcomed and encouraged. Patricia Lowery, North East England Blue Badge Guide [email protected]

Hard by the church of St Cross at the north-east end of Oxford is Holywell cemetery. Oxford has greater literary monuments, but none as atmospheric. Passing through a wooden gate, you enter a secret space of long grass and wild flowers. Ivy and lichen grow over the Victorian gravestones. Here can be found the grave of JW Burgon, poet of Petra – ‘a rose red city half as old as time’. There’s a fine memorial to The Wind in the Willows author Kenneth Grahame and to other literary lions of their day, united as one in the great leveller, death. Compared with Christ Church or other great colleges, Holywell cemetery may look insignificant, yet its mix of past and present, of Town and Gown, is utterly memorable. Alastair Lack, Oxford Green Badge Guide [email protected]

...BUILDING

...is the Watts Chapel in the pretty Surrey village of Compton. It is part of an art studio and gallery built by the 19th century artist, George Watts to display his work. But the unexpected treasure for a visitor is not the house or the gallery, but the Memorial Chapel. This was inspired by his wife, Mary who set up evening art classes for local villagers, teaching them how to model tiles from local clay. The result is the most beautiful and unique building adorned both inside and out, with work from nearly every villager in the area. Located in the middle of the Surrey hills, this it is the perfect place for quiet contemplation whilst appreciating a hidden artistic gem. 34 Sally Strange, London Blue Badge Guide, [email protected] E A Y R 0 3 S

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FREUD and the story of psychoanalysis

Step through the front door of 20 Maresfield Gardens in picturesque Hampstead and discover the world of Sigmund Freud, the founder of psychoanalysis, who came here with this family in 1938 after fleeing Nazi- occupied Vienna.

Visit London’s most enchanting historic house museum and see Freud’s intriguing study, his original and famous psychoanalytic couch, and his collection of antiquities.

Open Wednesday – Sunday, 12noon – 5pm 20 Maresfield Gardens, Hampstead, London NW3 5SX www.freud.org.uk 020 7435 2002

CHRISCHRISTMASTMAS FAIR WINTER AFTERNOON TEAS Saturday 28th November Sundays 6th & 13th December

• SPECIAL BEHIND THE SCENES WINTER GUIDED TOURS •

For inffoormation or booking call 01892 872746 or email [email protected] www.chiddingstonecastle.org.uk Chiddingstone Edenbridge Kent TN8 7AD