ECUADOR: ANTISANA-PAPALLACTA PRE-TRIP NOVEMBER 6–11, 2018 BLACK -FACED IBIS © PAUL J. GREENFIELD LEADER: PAUL J. GREENFIELD LIST COMPILED BY: PAUL J. GREENFIELD VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM ECUADOR: ANTISANA-PAPALLACTA PRE-TRIP NOVEMBER 6–11, 2018 By Paul Greenfield ANTISANA VOLCANO ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD Ecuador’s high Andean ridges along the eastern cordillera —so close to the Equator, so close to the sun, so surprisingly cold—offer a surprising twist to many of the popular preconceived notions of what equatorial South America is all about. From the “eternal” spring-like climate that caresses the capital city of Quito, up to the gelid glacial volcanic snowpeaks that reach the sky at over 18 to 20,000 ft. in elevation, impressive floral communities are home to an exciting array of birdlife. During our 4-day Antisana- Papallacta Pre-trip, we were able to enjoy an exciting selection of avian specialties. We Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 initiated our expedition just an hour or so east of Quito with a drive through the interAndean valley and up to the “altiplano” at Antisana National Park. Our first stop brought with it our initiation into this country’s hummingbird fanfare, with fine studies of Giant Hummingbird (the world’s largest!), Sparkling Violetear, Black-tailed Trainbearers, Tyrian Metaltails, Shining Sunbeams, and White-bellied Woodstars, only to be topped off by a distant soaring Andean Condor. We then climbed (in our vehicle!) to the broad páramo grassland at over 12,000 ft. where we stopped to scan the vast panorama, picking up views of rare and very local Andean (Black-faced) Ibis, a large flock of Andean Gulls, a magnificent low-soaring adult male Andean Condor, Variable Hawks, some 30 or so Carunculated Caracaras (soaring and rummaging about, virtually all- over-the-place), American Kestrels, Stout-billed and Chestnut-winged cinclodes, Brown- bellied Swallows, Páramo Ground-Tyrants, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Plain-colored Seedeaters, and brief looks at a band of Hooded Siskins. CARUNCULATED CARACARA ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD Our check-in stop at park headquarters delivered a Tawny Antpitta close-up, special looks at an Andean Tit-Spinetail, a non-stop singing Many-striped Canastero, and 3 female Ecuadorian Hillstars. We advanced to Micacocha where we saw our first (of many) Yellow-billed Pintail, Andean Teal, Andean (Ruddy) Duck, along with the increasingly declining (Northern) Silvery Grebe, Slate-colored Coot, and a seemingly out-of-place Great Egret. In the afternoon, at our lodge we located a pair of Neotropic Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 Cormorants along with additional flocks of pintails, teals, and gulls, plus Yellow-breasted (Chestnut-naped) Brushfinch. The following morning, we headed off northeastward, but not before spying another Andean Condor, our first soaring Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, more ducks and gulls, calling in a sweet pair of Sedge (Grass) Wrens, Black Flowerpiercers, and a couple more Black-tailed Trainbearers, among other species. We headed over the eastern cordillera and down the east (Amazonian) slope of the Andes, stopping in páramo to spot a Viridian Metaltail, before descending again to Guango Lodge for a delicious lunch and a brand new set of hummingbirds at their active feeders, where we enjoyed stellar views of: Speckled Hummingbird, stunning male Long-tailed Sylphs, handsome Collared Incas, at least a dozen Tourmaline Sunangels, Tyrian Metaltail, the enigmatic Sword-billed Hummingbird, Buff-tailed and Chestnut-breasted coronets, and White- bellied Woodstar. In the nearby forest and along the beautiful rapid-flowing Río Papallacta we encountered Pearled Treerunner, White-banded Tyrannulet, Torrent Tyrannulet, Turquoise Jay, Mountain Wren, White-capped Dipper, Black-crested Warbler, Spectacled Whitestart, a beautiful pair of Hooded Mountain-Tanagers, White- sided and Masked flowerpiercers, and (Northern) Mountain Cacique. We then returned a short distance upslope to Las Termas de Papallacta, a soak in the hotsprings, our checklist, dinner, and a good night of rest. HOODED MOUNTAIN -TANAGER ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD We arose at dawn for a short pre-breakfast uphill drive to the captivating and mystical elfin forest at over 11,000 ft.–a narrow fog-shrouded sliver of fascinating vegetation and crystal-clear waterfalls, perched high in the Andes. As we ascended, a pair of Pale- naped Brushfinches and a spectacular singing Scarlet-breasted Mountain-Tanager Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 caught our attention. We then began our slow-paced descent on foot, scanning and listening, in search of possible mixed-species foraging flocks and any avian activity we might come across. Nora spotted a beautiful perched Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, and we encountered a pair of Viridian Metaltails, Great Sapphirewing—the world’s second largest hummer, two Brown-backed Chat-Tyrants, and continued along, peering out over the extensive forest and admiring the beautiful environment as we advanced. The idea of food began to creep its way into our collective consciousness at just about the same moment that some distant movement drew our attention to a nearby forested slope…slowly, a bit of color could be discerned: a Yellow-breasted Brushfinch, then a pair of Spectacled Whitestarts; whoa! Perched up on a shrub…a Masked Mountain- Tanager (the key species of the area!). Now closer, a band of White-throated Tyrannulets, 2 Rufous Wrens flitted across the road right in front of us, and now—the prize—that super pair of Masked Mountain-Tanagers perched up in a close shrub— what a portrait!; a Black-chested Mountain-Tanager popped-up alongside…and finally a small band of Black-backed Bush-Tanagers showed themselves. This was the mixed foraging flock we were waiting for! After breakfast, we returned upslope to search for species we might have missed earlier. We came across another mixed species flock, and this time we added an Agile Tit-Tyrant foursome and a pair of Superciliaried Hemispinguses among several other species. Lastly, a White-rumped Hawk crossed the sky, a little too quickly to get really good looks. After lunch we decided to return to Guango Lodge to continue our explorations. At the feeders, we came across Buff-winged Starfrontlet, but our real goal was to locate, if possible, the enigmatic Torrent Duck, a spectacular species that glides through the most tumultuous white-water rapids with an ease that would amaze even the most stubborn unimpressionable and incredulous observer. The species had not been seen regularly in recent weeks, and we really wanted to test our luck. We examined various points along the boulder-spewn shores in the few spots where we were able to view the river, peering up and downstream with our binoculars—nothing. We finally arrived at the end of the trail, a place where it was rumored that the species had recently been spotted. At once, Laurel querried, “what’s that?”… well, it was a sleeping male Torrent Duck, that’s what it was! Apparently, this exquisite adult male was watching over its nearby nest site (well, maybe napping a little on the job… typical male?). We quietly slipped away, feeling quite triumphant. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 TORRENT DUCK ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD The final morning, we departed from Las Termas after breakfast and drove back up to Papallacta Pass—we ascended directly up to a foggy 14,000 ft. in elevation to search for another high Andean specialty…the ptarmigan-like Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe. It was cold and windy…and foggy; the air was noticeably thin as we walked slowly, hunched over a bit to better shield ourselves from the brisk conditions. We divided up to be able to scan the area more thoroughly, but no sign of our prize. I played some tape of the species a few times, and almost at the point of giving in to the cold, a response was heard. Juan hollered out, and almost immediately a pair of this unique and intricately patterned species was spotted by Laurel, and a second pair had shown themselves to Juan. Hallelujah—this seedsnipe hunt was a success! We then continued downslope, stopping briefly to see a nice male Ecuadorian Hillstar that defended his flowering patch of Chuquiragua shrubs along with another Andean Tit-Spinetail at close range. We then continued into the interAndean valley, first to the Pifo area and a side road where we checked out a shrubby agricultural zone; a pair of Tufted Tit-Tyrants came in fairly close, and we spotted a White-crested Elaenia. We stopped for lunch (after adding a soaring Harris’s Hawk) at San José de Puembo and then made a last stop at a ‘cul-de- sac’ in Cununyacu where we found a surprisingly nice array of species, including a stunning male Vermilion Flycatcher, a Blue-and-yellow Tanager, and the local specialty, Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 Scrub Tanager. Our adventure had now concluded. We had reveled in the scintillating glow of a multitude of hummingbirds and gorgeous tanagers, thrilled to majestic Andean Condors, “struck gold” with those cryptic seedsnipes and Torrent Duck, and truly enjoyed so many fascinating species of the frigid Andean páramo and mystical elfin forest. We even “soothed-down” in Las Terma’s thermal baths and treated our palates to a delicious culinary experience at Guango Lodge. Now, back at Hotel Quito for our final checklist session and dinner, we bid farewell to Nora, and now had to shift gears and get ourselves ready to take on part-two of our Ecuador adventure—the Northwestern Andean Slopes…bring it on! ITINERARY Nov.