ECUADOR: ANTISANA-PAPALLACTA PRE-TRIP

NOVEMBER 6–11, 2018

BLACK -FACED IBIS © PAUL J. GREENFIELD

LEADER: PAUL J. GREENFIELD LIST COMPILED BY: PAUL J. GREENFIELD

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM ECUADOR: ANTISANA-PAPALLACTA PRE-TRIP NOVEMBER 6–11, 2018

By Paul Greenfield

ANTISANA VOLCANO ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD

Ecuador’s high Andean ridges along the eastern cordillera —so close to the Equator, so close to the sun, so surprisingly cold—offer a surprising twist to many of the popular preconceived notions of what equatorial South America is all about. From the “eternal” spring-like climate that caresses the capital city of Quito, up to the gelid glacial volcanic snowpeaks that reach the sky at over 18 to 20,000 ft. in elevation, impressive floral communities are home to an exciting array of birdlife. During our 4-day Antisana- Papallacta Pre-trip, we were able to enjoy an exciting selection of avian specialties. We

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 initiated our expedition just an hour or so east of Quito with a drive through the interAndean valley and up to the “altiplano” at Antisana National Park. Our first stop brought with it our initiation into this country’s hummingbird fanfare, with fine studies of Giant Hummingbird (the world’s largest!), Sparkling Violetear, Black-tailed Trainbearers, Tyrian Metaltails, Shining Sunbeams, and White-bellied Woodstars, only to be topped off by a distant soaring Andean Condor. We then climbed (in our vehicle!) to the broad páramo grassland at over 12,000 ft. where we stopped to scan the vast panorama, picking up views of rare and very local Andean (Black-faced) Ibis, a large flock of Andean Gulls, a magnificent low-soaring adult male Andean Condor, Variable Hawks, some 30 or so Carunculated Caracaras (soaring and rummaging about, virtually all- over-the-place), American Kestrels, Stout-billed and Chestnut-winged cinclodes, Brown- bellied Swallows, Páramo Ground-Tyrants, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Plain-colored Seedeaters, and brief looks at a band of Hooded Siskins.

CARUNCULATED CARACARA ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD

Our check-in stop at park headquarters delivered a Tawny Antpitta close-up, special looks at an Andean Tit-Spinetail, a non-stop singing Many-striped Canastero, and 3 female Ecuadorian Hillstars. We advanced to Micacocha where we saw our first (of many) Yellow-billed Pintail, Andean Teal, Andean (Ruddy) Duck, along with the increasingly declining (Northern) Silvery Grebe, Slate-colored Coot, and a seemingly out-of-place Great Egret. In the afternoon, at our lodge we located a pair of Neotropic

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 Cormorants along with additional flocks of pintails, teals, and gulls, plus Yellow-breasted (Chestnut-naped) Brushfinch.

The following morning, we headed off northeastward, but not before spying another Andean Condor, our first soaring Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, more ducks and gulls, calling in a sweet pair of Sedge (Grass) Wrens, Black Flowerpiercers, and a couple more Black-tailed Trainbearers, among other species. We headed over the eastern cordillera and down the east (Amazonian) slope of the Andes, stopping in páramo to spot a Viridian Metaltail, before descending again to Guango Lodge for a delicious lunch and a brand new set of hummingbirds at their active feeders, where we enjoyed stellar views of: Speckled Hummingbird, stunning male Long-tailed Sylphs, handsome Collared Incas, at least a dozen Tourmaline Sunangels, Tyrian Metaltail, the enigmatic Sword-billed Hummingbird, Buff-tailed and Chestnut-breasted coronets, and White- bellied Woodstar. In the nearby forest and along the beautiful rapid-flowing Río Papallacta we encountered Pearled Treerunner, White-banded Tyrannulet, Torrent Tyrannulet, Turquoise Jay, Mountain Wren, White-capped Dipper, Black-crested Warbler, Spectacled Whitestart, a beautiful pair of Hooded Mountain-Tanagers, White- sided and Masked flowerpiercers, and (Northern) Mountain Cacique. We then returned a short distance upslope to Las Termas de Papallacta, a soak in the hotsprings, our checklist, dinner, and a good night of rest.

HOODED MOUNTAIN -TANAGER ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD

We arose at dawn for a short pre-breakfast uphill drive to the captivating and mystical elfin forest at over 11,000 ft.–a narrow fog-shrouded sliver of fascinating vegetation and crystal-clear waterfalls, perched high in the Andes. As we ascended, a pair of Pale- naped Brushfinches and a spectacular singing Scarlet-breasted Mountain-Tanager

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 caught our attention. We then began our slow-paced descent on foot, scanning and listening, in search of possible mixed-species foraging flocks and any avian activity we might come across. Nora spotted a beautiful perched Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, and we encountered a pair of Viridian Metaltails, Great Sapphirewing—the world’s second largest hummer, two Brown-backed Chat-Tyrants, and continued along, peering out over the extensive forest and admiring the beautiful environment as we advanced. The idea of food began to creep its way into our collective consciousness at just about the same moment that some distant movement drew our attention to a nearby forested slope…slowly, a bit of color could be discerned: a Yellow-breasted Brushfinch, then a pair of Spectacled Whitestarts; whoa! Perched up on a shrub…a Masked Mountain- Tanager (the key species of the area!). Now closer, a band of White-throated Tyrannulets, 2 Rufous Wrens flitted across the road right in front of us, and now—the prize—that super pair of Masked Mountain-Tanagers perched up in a close shrub— what a portrait!; a Black-chested Mountain-Tanager popped-up alongside…and finally a small band of Black-backed Bush-Tanagers showed themselves. This was the mixed foraging flock we were waiting for! After breakfast, we returned upslope to search for species we might have missed earlier. We came across another mixed species flock, and this time we added an Agile Tit-Tyrant foursome and a pair of Superciliaried Hemispinguses among several other species. Lastly, a White-rumped Hawk crossed the sky, a little too quickly to get really good looks.

After lunch we decided to return to Guango Lodge to continue our explorations. At the feeders, we came across Buff-winged Starfrontlet, but our real goal was to locate, if possible, the enigmatic Torrent Duck, a spectacular species that glides through the most tumultuous white-water rapids with an ease that would amaze even the most stubborn unimpressionable and incredulous observer. The species had not been seen regularly in recent weeks, and we really wanted to test our luck. We examined various points along the boulder-spewn shores in the few spots where we were able to view the river, peering up and downstream with our binoculars—nothing. We finally arrived at the end of the trail, a place where it was rumored that the species had recently been spotted. At once, Laurel querried, “what’s that?”… well, it was a sleeping male Torrent Duck, that’s what it was! Apparently, this exquisite adult male was watching over its nearby nest site (well, maybe napping a little on the job… typical male?). We quietly slipped away, feeling quite triumphant.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 TORRENT DUCK ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD

The final morning, we departed from Las Termas after breakfast and drove back up to Papallacta Pass—we ascended directly up to a foggy 14,000 ft. in elevation to search for another high Andean specialty…the ptarmigan-like Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe. It was cold and windy…and foggy; the air was noticeably thin as we walked slowly, hunched over a bit to better shield ourselves from the brisk conditions. We divided up to be able to scan the area more thoroughly, but no sign of our prize. I played some tape of the species a few times, and almost at the point of giving in to the cold, a response was heard. Juan hollered out, and almost immediately a pair of this unique and intricately patterned species was spotted by Laurel, and a second pair had shown themselves to Juan. Hallelujah—this seedsnipe hunt was a success! We then continued downslope, stopping briefly to see a nice male Ecuadorian Hillstar that defended his flowering patch of Chuquiragua shrubs along with another Andean Tit-Spinetail at close range. We then continued into the interAndean valley, first to the Pifo area and a side road where we checked out a shrubby agricultural zone; a pair of Tufted Tit-Tyrants came in fairly close, and we spotted a White-crested Elaenia. We stopped for lunch (after adding a soaring Harris’s Hawk) at San José de Puembo and then made a last stop at a ‘cul-de- sac’ in Cununyacu where we found a surprisingly nice array of species, including a stunning male Vermilion Flycatcher, a Blue-and-yellow Tanager, and the local specialty,

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 Scrub Tanager.

Our adventure had now concluded. We had reveled in the scintillating glow of a multitude of hummingbirds and gorgeous tanagers, thrilled to majestic Andean Condors, “struck gold” with those cryptic seedsnipes and Torrent Duck, and truly enjoyed so many fascinating species of the frigid Andean páramo and mystical elfin forest. We even “soothed-down” in Las Terma’s thermal baths and treated our palates to a delicious culinary experience at Guango Lodge. Now, back at Hotel Quito for our final checklist session and dinner, we bid farewell to Nora, and now had to shift gears and get ourselves ready to take on part-two of our Ecuador adventure—the Northwestern Andean Slopes…bring it on!

ITINERARY

Nov. 6: Arrival in Quito (9,000 ft.); overnight at Hotel Quito Nov. 7: Drive to Antisana National Park (12,500 ft.); morning spent birding the páramo grassland, with views of Antisana Vocano, to La Mica Lake (Micacocha) at 12,000+ ft.. Lunch and birding at Tambo Condor and transfer to Hostería José María (overnight at Hostería José María) Nov. 8: Morning around Hostería José María; drive northward and up and over Papallacta Pass (13,000 ft.) to Guango Lodge (8,500 ft.) for lunch and birding. Transfer to Las Termas de Papallacta (10,800 ft) (overnight at to Las Termas de Papallacta Nov. 9: Morning along upper road, above Las Termas (to 11,500 ft.). Afternoon, return to Guango Lodge (overnight at to Las Termas de Papallacta) Nov. 10: Departure from Las Termas; drive to Papallacta Pass and antenna area (14,000 ft.). Return to Quito with stops at Pifo turnoff, Hostería San José de Puembo (lunch), and Cununyacu. Final checklist and dinner (overnight at Hotel Quito) Nov. 11: Ecuador: NW Andean Slopes Tour begins…

KEY

H = heard only Bold = Species of special interest ANT = Antisana National Park (paramo zone) TC = Tambo Condor Restaurant JM = Hostería José María PAP = Papallacta Pass (paramo to 14,000 ft.) GL = Guango Lodge TP = Las Termas de Papallacta/ elfin forest P = Pifo turnoff SJ = Hostería San José de Puembo C = Cununyacu

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018

LONG -TAILED SYLPH ©P AUL J. GREENFIEL

BIRDS

DUCKS, GEESE & WATERFOWL: ANATIDAE Torrent Duck (Merganetta armata )—Finally, after two visits to GL, we came upon a resting male, that was apparently guarding its nexting site; Laurel spotted him! Yellow-billed Pintail ( Anas georgica )—1 seen distantly at Micacocha (ANT); then between 15-50 from JM Andean Teal (Anas andinum )—2 seen at Micacocha (ANT); then between 10-30 or so from JM Andean (Ruddy) Duck ( Oxyura ferruginea )—8 seen at Micacocha (ANT)

GREBES: PODICIPEDIDAE Silvery Grebe (Podiceps occipitalis )—Recently recognized as a separate species, Northern Silvery Grebe ( P. juninensis) by some authors.3 pairs seen (scoped) at Micacocha (ANT)

CORMORANTS & SHAGS: PHALACROCORACIDAE Neotropic Cormorant ( Phalacrocorax brasilianus )—A pair was seen on two days at JM

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018

HERON, EGRETS & BITTERNS: ARDEIDAE Great Egret (Ardea alba )—1 was seen at Micacocha (ANT); this species is rarely encountered in the páramo zone

IBISES & SPOONBILLS: THRESKIORNITHIDAE Andean Ibis ( Theristicus branickii )—Lumped with Black-faced Ibis (T. melanopis ) by some authors. At least 1 pair of this rare and local species was seen well in páramo grassland at ANT

NEW WORLD VULTURES: CATHARTIDAE Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus )—Common throughout; seen on our first and last days in the central valley east of Quito Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura )—Singles were seen on two days in the central valley east of Quito Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus )—At least 4 were seen flying, and one perched, at ANT; especially, a single magnificent male that circled about, low overhead— GREAT view!

HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES: ACCIPITRIDAE Harris’s Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus )—1 was seen soaring just east of Quito (Nov. 10) White-rumped Hawk (Parabuteo leucorrhous )—1 seen briefly soaring just above TP Variable Hawk (Geranoaetus polyosoma)—Formally aka Puna Hawk ( G. poecilochrous ); recently moved from genus Buteo . 5 seen soaring over páramo at ANT; 1 dark morph adult was seen soaring at PAP Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle ( Geranoaetus melanoleucus )—Single adults were seen at ANT and PAP

RAILS, GALLINULES & COOTS: RALLIDAE Slate-colored (Andean) Coot (Fulica ardesiaca )—Dozens seen at Micacocha (ANT) and from JM

SEEDSNIPES: THINOCORIDAE Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe (Attagis gayi )—After some ‘hunting’ in cold, foggy, and windy high páramo at PAP (14,000 ft.), 2 pairs were finally located and seen well

GULLS, TERNS & SKIMMERS: LARIDAE Andean Gull (Chroicocephalus serranus )— Some 50 or so seen at ANT; at least 15 more at JM

PIGEONS & DOVES: COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (Columba livia )—Concentrated in towns east of Quito Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata )—Common species the central valley and around Quito

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 HUMMINGBIRDS: TROCHILIDAE Sparkling Violetear (Colibri coruscans )—Common at TC feeders; also in gardens at C

SPARKLING VIOLETEAR ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD

Tourmaline Sunangel (Heliangelus exortis )—Very common (15 or more) at GL Speckled Hummingbird ( Adelomyia melanogenys )—Singles were seen on two days at GL Long-tailed Sylph (Agliaocercus kingie )—1-2 males, with their stunning tails, were seen at GL Ecuadorian Hillstar (Oreotrochilus Chimborazo )—Aka Chimborazo Hillstar by some authors. 3 females were seen at ANT; a male was located at PAP by Nora’s sharp eyes, and scoped Black-tailed Trainbearer (Lesbia victoria )—2 males seen beautifully at TC, a male and female were encountered at JM Rainbow-bearded Thornbill (Chalcostigma herrani )—1 beautiful subadult male was

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 seen perched above TP Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina )—3 or so were seen at TC Viridian Metaltail (Metallura williami )—Singles seen at PAP on two visits (Nov. 8, 10); 2 encountered above TP Shining Sunbeam (Aglae)actis cupripennis )—2 seen closely at TC feeders and shrubs Collared Inca (Coeligena torquata )—Up to 8 of this classy hummer were seen on two days at GL Buff-winged Starfrontlet ( Coeligena lutetiae )—3 seen; above TP and at GL feeders on Nov. 9 Sword-billed Hummingbird (Ensifera ensifera )—Single males (one juvenile) were seen at GL feeders; crazy-long bill!!! Great Sapphirewing (Pterophanes cyanopterus )—2 were seen above TP; the world’s 2nd largest hummer

GREAT SAPPHIREWING ©P AUL J. GREENFIELD

Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas )—1 female was seen repeatedly at TC Buff-tailed Coronet ( Boissoneaua flavescens )—Common (8-12 or so) on two visits to

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 GL Chestnut-breasted Coronet (Boissoneaua matthewsii )—Common (12-15 or so) on two visits to GL White-bellied Woodstar ( Chaetocercus mulsant)—A pair was seen at GL on two visits

WOODPECKERS: PICIDAE Crimson-mantled Woodpecker (Colaptes rivolii )—A pair of this awsome species was seen well at GL

FALCONS & CARACARAS: FALCONIDAE Carunculated Caracara (Phalcoboenus carunculatus )—30 or so were seen in páramo at ANT; 3 more were encountered at PAP American Kestrel ( Falco sparverius )—3 were seen at ANT; 1 more at SJ

ANTPITTAS: GRALLARIIDAE Rufous Antpitta ( Grallaria rufula )—H above TP Tawny Antpitta (Grallaria quitensis )—1 seen briefly, but close, at ANT; 2 more were seen along the road at PAP (others H)

TAPACULOS: RHINOCRYPTIDAE Blackish Tapaculo ( Scytalopus latrans )—H on two days above TP

OVENBIRDS & WOODCREEPERS: FURNARIIDAE Chestnut-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes albiventris)—Formally known as Bar-winged Cinclodes (C. fuscus ). 5 or so were seen at ANT; 2 more at seen at PAP Stout-billed Cinclodes (Cinclodes excelsior )—12 were seen at ANT; 2 more at PAP Pearled Treerunner (Margarornis squamiger )—1-2 were seen on two days; above TP and at GL Andean Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura andicola )—Singles were seen beautifully; 1 at ANT, the other at PAP Many-striped Canastero (Asthenes flammulata )—Excellent views of 2 at ANT

TYRANT FLYCATCHERS: TYRANNIDAE White-banded Tyrannulet ( Mecocerculus stictopterus )—Pairs were seen on two days above TP and at GL White-throated Tyrannulet ( Mecocerculus leucophrys )—At least 4 were seen above TP Tufted Tit-Tyrant ( Anairetes parulus )—A responsive pair was seen at P Agile Tit-Tyrant (Uromyias agilis )—4 were seen above TP White-crested Elaenia ( Elaenia albiceps )—1 was encountered at JM Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea )—1 seen along Río Papallacta at GL Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus )—a stunning male was observed at C Paramo Ground-Tyrant ( Muscisaxicola alpinus )—Aka Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant by some authors. 6 were seen in open páramo at ANT Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca fumicolor )—2 were encountered above TP

CROWS, JAYS & MAGPIES: CORVIDAE

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 Turquoise Jay (Cyanolyca turcosa )—7 or so were seen on two visits to GL

SWALLOWS: HIRUNDINIDAE Blue-and-white Swallow (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca )—Fairly common to common and widespread, except in the paramo zone; seen on our first and last days Brown-bellied Swallow (Orochelidon murina )—The highland swallow; fairly common at higher elevations, especially in the páramo; seen daily

WRENS: TROGLODYTIDAE Mountain Wren (Troglodytes solstitialis )—1 was seen well at GL Sedge (Grass) Wren (Cistothorus platensis )—A responsive pair were enjoyed at JM Rufous Wren (Cinnycerthia unirufa )— 2 seen with a mixed foraging flock above TP

DIPPERS: CINCLIDAE White-capped Dipper (Cinclus leucocephalus )—Singles seen at GL on two visits

THRUSHES & ALLIES: TURDIDAE Great Thrush (Turdus fuscater )—The common highland thrush; seen daily

NEW WORLD WARBLERS: PARULIDAE Black-crested Warbler (Myiothlypis nigrocristata )—A pair was en route to ANT Spectacled Redstart (Myioborus melanocephalus )— Often called Redstart even though NO red appears in its plumage! A fairly common higher elevation species; 3/5 seen on two visits to GL; another was seen closely at TP

TANAGERS & ALLIES: THRAUPIDAE Superciliaried Hemispingus (Hemispingus superciliaris )—1-2 were seen with a mixed- species foraging flock above TP Hooded Mountain-Tanager (Buthraupis montana )—A pair was seen at GL Masked Mountain-Tanager (Buthraupis wetmorei )—Wonderful close looks at 4 of this rare and local species above TP Black-chested Mountain-Tanager (Cnemathraupis eximia )— At least 1 was seen above TP, aliong with the previous species Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager (Anisognathus igniventris )—Nice views of 1 singing individual above TP Blue-and-yellow Tanager (Pipraeidea bonariensis )—1 was seen at C Scrub Tanager (Tangara vitriolina )—3 or so were seen well at C Black Flowerpiercer (Diglossa humeralis )—A common highland species; seen daily in gardens and at flowering hedges at TC, JM, TP, P, SJ and C White-sided Flowerpiercer (Diglossa albilatera )—1 male was seen at GL (seemingly high for the species Masked Flowerpiercer (Diglossa cyanea )—Singles were seen on two visits to GL (also at nectar feeders there) Black-backed Bush-Tanager (Urothraupis stolzmanni )—2 or so were seen with a mixed-species foraging flock above TP Plumbeous Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus unicolor )—8 or so in páramo at ANT

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018 Plain-colored Seedeater (Catamenia inornata )—1-3 or so seen daily throughout the trip; in páramo and temperate zone grassland and shrubs

NEW WORLD SPARROWS: EMBERIZIDAE Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis )—A common highland species; seen daily throught our trip Pale-naped Brushfinch (Atlapetes pallidinucha )—A pair wasseen well above TP Yellow-breasted Brushfinch ( Atlapetes latinuchus )—Aka Rufous-naped Brushfinch. Singles were seen on two days at TC and JM

TROUPIALS & ALLIES: ICTERIDAE Northern Mountain Cacique (Cacicus leucoramphus )—Often lumped and called Mountain Cacique ( C. chrysonotus )—3/2 (others H) were seen on two days at GL

FINCHES, EUPHONIAS & ALLIES: FRINGILLIDAE Hooded Siskin (Spinus magellanicus )—A band of 10 were seen at ANT

MAMMALS

RABBITS: LEPORIDAE Tropical Cottontail (Sylvilagus brasiliensis )—15 were seen at ANT; 12+ were encountered at PAP

DEER: CERVIDAE White-tailed Deer (Odocoileus virginianus )—3 seen in páramo at PAP, including a handsome buck

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Ecuador: Antisana-Papallacta Pre-trip, 2018