File central--loc-bhu3

Book Bhutan 3 Initial Mapping Date 15 Sep 06 Road Scale All key roads labelled? Hierarchy Date Title Hydro Chapter Central Editor Cxns Spot colours removed? Hierarchy Nthpt Masking in Illustrator done? Symbols Author Bradley Mayhew MC Cxns Date Book Inset/enlargement correct? Off map Notes dest'ns Border Locator A1 Key Author Cxns Date

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C entral Bhutan

Why Go? T ARonGS Central Bhutan’s forested mountains and fertile valleys DZONGKHAG. . . . 108 comprise the country’s cultural heartland. The region Trongsa...... 109 boasts several of Bhutan’s oldest and most significant tem- BUMTHANG ples and monasteries, great day hikes and short treks, and DZONGKHAG. . . . 112 several spectacular festivals. Across the 3420m-high Pele La and the Black Mountains ...... 114 is the large, fertile Mangde Chhu valley and the magnifi- Chokhor Valley...... 119 cent . Commanding the junction of three Tang Valley. . . . . 123 major roads, Trongsa has long been the glue that holds the SOUTHERN country together. Even today the Crown Prince must serve DZONGKHAGS...... 126 as the penlop (regional governor) of the dzong before he can rule as king. From Trongsa, a short, steep drive over the Yotong La (3425m) leads to the four valleys of Bumthang, a magical re- gion of saints and treasure-seekers, great demon-subduing Best Places to struggles and fabulous miracles, rich with relics from the Stay visits of Guru Rinpoche and Pema Lingpa. Because it takes a little extra time to get here, Central Bhutan sees fewer »»S wiss Guest House (p117) tourists than Thimphu, Paro and Punakha. »»Yangkhil Resort (p111) »»C humey Nature Resort (p113) When to Go »»Jakar Village Lodge (p117) Central Bhutan, particularly the fertile valleys of Bumthang, is a year-round destination: pleasant in summer, and ideal »»G ongkhar Guest House (p118) in spring (especially for the rhododendron displays on the mountain passes) and also in autumn. Winters can be very cold, so bring appropriate clothing and don’t be surprised Best Views if snow temporarily closes the high passes. Ideally you should time your visit to include at least one »»T rongsa Viewpoint (p109) of the colourful and fascinating festivals, such as at Ura, »»T ower of Trongsa Trongsa Dzong, Jampey Lhakhang, or Kurjey Lhakhang Museum (p111) (see p19). »» (p114) »»P elseling Goemba (p116) »»Kunzangdrak Goemba (p124) Gangkhar M ela C H I N A Puensum (T I B E T) Thaga (7541m) C 107 hhu

Rinchen Zoe La L H U E N T S E B U M T H A N G

u Gokthong h La h Dungkhar C g

Tan Thowadrak Ngang Hermitage Lhakhang W A N G D U E Thangbi Ogyen Lhuentse Goemba Dawakha P H O D R A N G Chholing Tangmachu Toktu Zampa Bumthang Jakar Punakha Tseshinang Yotong La Valleys Longte Rodang La Pele La (3425m) Membartsho (3420m) Zungney (4160m) Wangdue Sephu Shingkhar Phodrang Rukubji Gaytsa Ura  Trongsa Chhume Cen  Shertang La Tashila Chendebji (3590m) Phobjikha Thrumshing La Kuenga Rabten t

Valley (3750m) Bhu ral Thrumshing La National Park Sengor

Bumthang T R O N G S A Mongar t n an

Zhemgang Chhu Lana Black Nabji  Mountains C National

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Ts Chhu Damphu S A R P A N G

Puna Royal Manas National Dagapela Lamidranga Park Z H E M G A N G Chhu Sarpang Manas Gelephu Panbang Nganglam

Kalikhola I N D I A

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Central Bhutan Highlights 1 Explore sprawling Trongsa 4 Wander around the Kurjey 7 Pause at Chendebji Dzong (p110), a dramatic Lhakhang (p121) complex, a Chorten (p108): smaller example of traditional legacy of Guru Rinpoche than, but patterned after, Bhutanese architecture 5 Visit one of Bhutan’s oldest Swayambhunath in Kathmandu 2 Discover the heritage and most significant temples 8 Detour up the Tang Valley of Trongsa at the Tower of at Jampey Lhakhang (p119) to the 100-year-old Ogyen Trongsa Museum (p111) 6 Circumambulate Chholing Palace (p125), now 3 Take one of the many Tamshing Goemba (p122) home to a superb museum excellent hikes in the wearing a cloak of chainmail and bucolic guesthouse Bumthang valleys (p116) made by Pema Lingpa retreat