issue 2 │ 2018 │ FREE

SPECIAL FEATURE Shiga Kogen: Ski Slopes in the The Grandest Ski Surrounds of Sapporo Resort on the Peak and Otaru of Japan

LOTTE ARAI RESORT Two-Day Photo The Birth of a Luxury Shoot in Aizu Resort with Total Echigo Yuzawa: Mountain Runs A Skier’s Paradise Heaven Skiing Japan

Daily Direct flight from Sydney to Tokyo (Haneda) with smooth connection to Ski fields in Japan

www.anaskyweb.com 1800 081 765 5 Star World’s Best Best Airline Airline Airport Services Staff in Asia CONTENTS

4 Prologue issue 2 │ 2018 │ FREE

6 Lotte Arai Resort EDITORIAL The Birth of a Luxury Resort EDITOR IN CHIEF with Total Mountain Runs Kazuya Baba EDITOR 18 The Envy of the World: Ida Van Ski Areas within Metropolitan TRANSLATORS Ida Van, Andrew Dahm Suburbs in Abundance DESIGN Special Feature Ski Slopes in the Surrounds of Sapporo and Otaru ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER Kosaku Makino

12 SAPPORO DESIGNERS Anyu Tsushima, Junko Wakimura 14 TEINE 16 BAN.K 44 ECHIGO ADVERTISING 17 KOKUSAI YUZAWA GENERAL MANAGER Kazuya Baba 18 JOZANKEI ONSEN A Skier’s Paradise 80 Minutes from SYDNEY SALES MANAGER 19 OTARU Naoto Ijichi The Big City 22 KIRORO SYDNEY SALES REPRESENTATIVE 24 MOUNT TENGU Kanako Sugiya, Kanako Hirokawa, 51 Reliving the Beauty Kumiko Tokita, Yuki Shiina, Ryo Shidara 25 ONZE through Still Photography 26 YOICHI Back and Sidecountry Skiing in Myoko NICHIGO PRESS PUBLICATIONS 27 Gateway to the Highest PUBLISHER 56 SHIGA KOGEN Ike Ikeguchi Powder Snow Heaven on Earth The Grandest Ski Resort on the Peak of Japan GENERAL MANAGER Set Up Base in Asahikawa For Fun in the Snow Kazuya Baba

62 MADARAO KOGEN EDITORIAL [email protected] 32 The Rise of 13 Endorsed Glade-run Courses to Get the Heart Pumping DESIGN [email protected] Japan's International Resorts ADVERTISING [email protected] 64 HAKUBA A Popular Japanese Ski Spot jSnow is published by 34 A 5 Star Airline and the Winner of NICHIGO PRESS AUSTRALIA PTY. LTD. Airline of the Year 2018 Level 3, 724-728 George St., Sydney NSW 65 NOZAWA Australia All Nippon Airways A Charming Onsen Town and Giant Ski Resort General Enquiries Tel: (02) 9211-1155 Fax: (02) 9211-1722 36 Two-Day Photo Shoot in Aizu Email: [email protected] 66 YUDANAKA SHIBU ONSEN Websites: j-style.com.au / nichigopress.jp / Making the most of the best powder snows Get Up Close and Personal With Snow Monkeys www.nichigo.com.au on mainland Japan in a Historical Onsen Town Southpaw Font: AWP, Allison Usavage, Tyler Finck DISCLAIMER: While we take every care in ensuring that material published in jSnow is accurate, data and information may change after the date of publication, 16 May 2018. Nichigo Press cannot take responsibility for the content of advertisements and contributions from external persons or entities. HAVE THE ANNUAL ISSUE OF JSNOW DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR! No material may be reproduced in part or in whole without written consent from the copyright holders. Nichigo Press Australia requires as part of its terms To place a mail order, send a cheque or money order for $10 (incl. GST, postage and handling fees) together and conditions of contract that the content of advertisements do not infringe MAIL the rights of any third party and do not breach any provision of the Trade with your name and address to: Practices Act 1974 (Cth) or the Fair Trading Act 1987 (NSW) or similar legislation ORDER enacted in other states of Australia (or other jurisdictions). Nichigo Press NICHIGO PRESS PO BOX A2612, Sydney South NSW 1235 cannot be held responsible for advertisements that breach these conditions. Delivery may be subject to postal system delays. Nichigo Press disclaims any responsibility for such delays. Offer available in Australia only.

jSnow issue 2 │ 3 WELCOME

PROLOGUE

dvances in technology have brought until comparatively recent times. This is why travellers from Australia who were travelling in about incredible change in our daily the number of offerings and efforts targeting a group from one resort to another using a large lives. Of these advances, the spread of travellers from overseas remains quite low, rental car while I was researching ski resorts in Asophisticated mobile devices such as and many street signs are still written only in Japan. This, I believe, is a new wave. smartphones over the past ten years has been Japanese. Few Japanese people are fluent in For those of you who have already particularly influential. Barely a generation English despite studying it for many years at travelled to the ski resorts of Japan or might ago, it was almost impossible to conceive school, and some shy away from speaking it be interested in going, this year’s issue of of a world where people might walk about entirely out of fear for their abilities. jSnow focuses on new areas and new ways with powerful computers in their pockets. Such a national character and to enjoy your trip. With that in mind, our Nowadays, the number of people who would environmental factors once made the prospect first special feature is about the ski fields find it almost impossible to conceive of a of getting around Japan freely one that was of Sapporo in Hokkaido and surrounds world without them is no doubt greater. not without its challenges for travellers from where you can travel around to many new If you’re wondering why I have chosen to abroad. If you were to lose your way or run places by car while staying in the city. We begin a magazine about skiing with a discussion into some form of trouble, not being able to have a range of other content as well, from of technology, look no further than the read the signs or find someone nearby who an introduction to the bold new Lotte Arai immeasurable value these devices provide to speaks the same language as you could be Resort, which opened in December 2017 to travellers from abroad come to visit the ski quite the barrier to being more adventurous. the Aizu area, which is gaining recognition resorts of Japan. These days, a big change is underway. The as a new spot for skiing. While they are of course good for finding number of people who visit Japan and travel As someone who not only has experience information, what stood out the most to me is about the country using rental cars is on the working on the production of skiing their ability to allow travellers to use apps such rise each year, and the main reason the barrier magazines in Japan, but is also the most as Apple Maps and Google Maps to navigate for such travel has lowered is the advent of knowledgeable Japanese person living in in a language with which they are familiar. navigation apps on advanced mobile devices. Australia when it comes to the ski resorts As a country that spent a period of The ability to use these gadgets, which play such there, it is my hope that I can continue to its history with its borders closed to all a large role in our daily lives, to easily navigate provide a fresh look at ways to enjoy your trip outsiders, and where the notion of a new areas has brought down the psychological to skiing fans both near and far. homogenous people is still close in mind, barrier to moving about. Japan has been a relatively secluded nation I myself actually ran into a number of Kazuya Baba

4 │ jSnow issue 2 Kamui Kurodake Asahikawa Asahidake Airport Onze Teine Tenguyama Bankei Kiroro Asahikawa Jozankei Kokusai New Chitose Sapporo Airport Otaru

Aizu

Arai Nozawa Myoko Echigo Yuzawa Hakuba Shiga Kogen

Madarao Yudanaka Shibu

TOKYO TOKYO

jSnow issue 2 │ 5 ARAI Niigata

Preface Special Feature THE BIRTH OF A LUXURY RESORT WITH TOTAL MOUNTAIN RUNS Lotte Arai Resort

Words and photography: Kazuya Baba

6 │ jSnow issue 2 One of few resorts in Japan with large non-compacted snow zones, a legendary ski area that makes backcountry lovers and powder-snow junkies tremble with excitement the day after heavy snowfall – Arai has returned. This was the biggest news on the Japanese ski scene last season.

otte Arai Resort is a fully-serviced resort THE BIGGEST NON-COMPACTED SKI SLOPE that was originally opened in 1993, trading IN JAPAN under the name ARAI Mountain Spa. LLocated at the base of Mount Okenashi Arai is located next to Mount Myoko at the base (next to Mount Myoko), it was known for of Mount Okenashi in one of the most prominent allowing snow-sport lovers access to its huge snow-rich regions in the world. There are many powder-snow areas through lifts and gondolas – ways to access Lotte Arai Resort, for example: it unprecedented at the time. is 8 kilometres or a 10 minute drive away from Unfortunately, the waning popularity of the Joshin-etsu Expressway Arai Interchange skiing and deteriorating economic environment (Smart IC); a 30 minute free shuttle bus ride from saw a number of ski areas and hotels close, Hokuriku Shinkansen (bullet train) Joetsumyoko rendering the resort to a fate of fodder for Station; or from internationally renowned Myoko nostalgic tales of the past. As previously Kogen, it is a 30 minute trip away as well. The ski mentioned, ARAI’s greatest selling point was its area’s convenient location on the eastern slope of huge, non-compacted snow courses, however, this Mount Okenashi also happens to contribute to the also served to be its weakness as it offered few slow-melting quality of the snow. compacted-snow courses. The trend amongst Japanese skiers, at the time, was towards hard, compacted snow as they enjoyed carving turns. In other words, there were few skiers who enjoyed backcountry skiing, unlike now. I personally believe that ARAI was trying to hit a market that didn’t exist in Japan during that era. The resort was too ahead of its time. Nowadays, skiers from overseas, namely European, American and Australian skiers, flock to Japan for a taste of powder snow in quantities unmatched by any other country in the world. Similarly, the number of Japanese skiers looking to try out areas away from compacted snow continues to rise. In May 2017, ARAI was reborn under the major Korean-owned hotel brand Lotte as Lotte Arai Resort. As the trend continues to evolve, I have no doubt that Arai will now grow to become a renowned Japanese ski resort of luxury. Keep reading to find out more about the new and improved ski areas, activities and facilities on offer at Lotte Arai Resort!

jSnow issue 2 │ 7 ARAI Niigata

To speed things up, take a quick look at the A WONDROUS STROLL IN THE SKY map to aid in familiarising yourself with the main – JAPAN’S LONGEST ZIP-LINE features of the courses on offer. Pay particularly close attention to the purple areas. On a normal Of the numerous new attractions added to skip slope, these areas would be classified as coincide with the reopening of the resort, the off-piste, but at Arai they are free to be carved zip-line should not be missed. This zip-line of huge up. These areas are, of course, non-compacted so proportions sits at the mountain peak, stretching you will be able to enjoy top quality powder snow. 1,501 metres in length from the mountain-top One look at the map should give you an idea of gondola station with a total elevation difference long tubing slope, another thrilling experience how open and freeing the courses are. of approximately 240 metres. As of January for those with a need for speed. That’s not all. The map featured here 2018, it is the longest of its kind in all of Asia. It was released when the resort reopened in is extremely safe and utilises the same emergency THE HOTEL DEFINING THE EPITOME December 2017. Since then, even more areas escape mechanism found on NASA space shuttle OF DECADENCE have been opened up for access. It wouldn’t launch pads. The first half of the ride is a thrilling, be an exaggeration to label this the largest high-speed experience, followed by a more relaxed One other aspect that draws visitors to Arai is non-compacted snow area in Japan. The 4 second half that allows you to enjoy the sights of the gorgeous hotel. The hotel features a total courses from the peak of the mountain can be Hokushinetsu Mountains around and the Takada of 257 rooms, divided into 3 classes: Superior, approached by hiking up towards them from the Plains below. The included snapshots will give you Deluxe and Suite. It has been designed around lift station. Resort staff carry out checks on the a taste of how big it really is. the concept of mountain villas or retreats. The slopes before they are open for hiking, meaning Many visitors are prompted to book a ride on hotel is marketed as an upper-class establishment, that opening times differ from day to day. the zip-line during the ski season after catching a meaning that even the Superior-class rooms are Courses will be closed on days where conditions startling glimpse of someone flying above them. spacious and pristine. There is an air about this are too dangerous for access. Your best bet is to It is an attraction I highly recommend to anyone hotel that places it head and shoulders above ask a member of staff stationed at the starting who happens to find themselves at the resort. The your average hotel. The specially produced point about the day’s conditions. Zip Tour also includes 1 ride down the 192 metre bedding has been particularly well received for

8 │ jSnow issue 2 revamp, steps were taken to dig up and locate hot spring sources. The efforts of the resort paid off and it now boasts a large public onsen bath. The Myoko region is known for its hot springs, so it would a trip to the area would not be complete without an onsen experience. This is a great coup for would-be visitors. Inside of the resort is a wide range of other facilities including: a library café filled with a huge range of books, bouldering walls, a pool, gym and even a spa to keep you on your toes. There are also a number of top quality restaurants and cafés scattered around. I was particularly impressed by the Italian restaurant, Arcobaleno. Dinner courses start at 13,000 yen per person and while you may not think this is a bargain, you’ll be reaching for your wallets when you see what dishes are on the menu. Selections include top quality char-grilled Wagyu beef, unique pasta dishes made with the finest local Niigata-sourced ingredients, and even soup. Every dish is made with the utmost care and is absolutely scrumptious. The restaurant is marketed as a fusion of modern and its outstanding comfort. If you are after an even classic Italian cuisine, but I personally found more luxurious experience, how about giving the it to be a fine dining experience of Japanese- Deluxe or Suite rooms a shot? inspired Italian fare. Headlines were made over the reopening of While it is perfectly fine to stay somewhere the resort for another reason – the drawing of nearby and visit the ski slopes, I highly hot spring waters. While the original resort had recommended you experience everything this excellent spa facilities, it used heated water, rather first-class resort has to offer on your next trip to than drawing from natural hot springs. With the Lotte Arai Resort.

jSnow issue 2 │ 9 SAPPORO & OTARU Hokkaido & OTARU & SAPPORO

Special Feature THE ENVY OF THE WORLD: SKI AREAS WITHIN METROPOLITAN SUBURBS IN ABUNDANCE Ski Slopes in the Surrounds of Sapporo and Otaru

Words and photography: Kazuya Baba

10 │ jSnow issue 2 THE ENVY OF THE WORLD: SKI AREAS WITHIN METROPOLITAN SUBURBS IN ABUNDANCE Ski Slopes in the Surrounds of Sapporo and Otaru

The majority of overseas ski tourists visiting Niseko and other ski resorts in Hokkaido tend to travel straight to their destination from the gateway to Hokkaido, New Chitose Airport. The same visitors then make a beeline straight back to the airport without any side trips or diversions. This type of visit is such an unfortunate waste of potential opportunities for exciting experiences. At just a short 40 minute train ride away from the airport is a large city of approximately 2 million people and one of the most fascinating cities in all of Japan – Sapporo. This city of charm and wonder also happens to have a variety of different local ski resorts around it at just a stone’s throw away. This special feature will focus on travels centred on the metropolis of Sapporo and the charming fishing-port town of Otaru. Keep reading to gain some inspiration on a new way to enjoy a ski trip around Hokkaido by visiting ski slopes around its major cities.

jSnow issue 2 │ 11 SAPPORO & OTARU Hokkaido SAPPORO

apporo, Hokkaido is the northern-most mentioning that the ski-jump ramps used in the ordinance-designated and fifth most- Winter Olympics can be visited in a flash from 札 populated city in Japan (including the the city. It is a highly popular tourist destination 幌 Sspecial wards of Tokyo). It was the first and is definitely worth a gander. Asian city to host the Winter Olympics in 1972 The first cab off the rank in this introduction (the Sapporo Olympics) and later went on to host of all things Sapporo is none other than Sapporo a range of other international sporting events, Beer. Many of our readers will have, no doubt, including the FIFA World Cup. Sapporo is also seen and perhaps even tasted this beer at various FROM FOOD TO currently considering a bid to host the 2026 Japanese restaurants in Australia. Sapporo Winter Olympics. Beer is a widely known Japanese brand and is As can probably be gauged from its history, consumed all around the world, however, what ENTERTAINMENT the greatest advantage of Sapporo is that it is is little known is that its history dates back long surrounded by a number of easily accessible ski ago to 1876. The prefecture of Hokkaido has a Putting Japan’s Best Foot Forward areas nearby, despite being a large, urban city. comparatively short history compared to the rest with a City of 2 Million People The renowned ski resorts in the area will be of Japan, having only been officially developed covered in more detail later as this section will in the late 19th century. This means that the focus mainly on the city of Sapporo itself. Before history of Sapporo Beer and the development of diving into the wonders of Sapporo, it is worth Hokkaido walked hand in hand.

12 │ jSnow issue 2 There is a place in Sapporo where all things Sapporo Ramen Yokocho is a well-known little Odori Park is located in the heart of Sapporo Sapporo Beer can be experienced such as: a alley in the city. This popular little spot is filled and hosts seasonal festivals all year round to museum displaying the history of Sapporo with famous ramen restaurants, left and right, up provide relaxation and entertainment to locals, beer, tours explaining the beer brewing process, and down. Ramen lovers should definitely check such as the Sapporo Lilac Festival in spring and tastings, and even a restaurant to taste the out this street and even make return trips to taste the YOSAKOI Soran Festival in summer. The delicious local fare of the northern country. This all of the different types of ramen on offer. grounds stretch 1.5 kilometres across from east wondrous place is a 15 - 20 minute walk from Hokkaido has a deep food culture history and to west and are filled with snow statues, big and Sapporo Station – The Sapporo Beer Garden. is known for various food booms such as soup small, during the Snow Festival. Come nighttime, The local Hokkaido dish of “Genghis Khan” curries, and chocolates like Shiroi Koibito and projection mapping exhibits are switched on to (lamb barbeque) can also be feasted upon here, Royce. Doing some research into the different create beautifully dazzling sights that see tourists making this a must on your stays in Sapporo. delectable foods to fill your belly prior to jetting from all around the world flock to the city. Over Hokkaido is also known as the biggest food-lover’s off to Hokkaido will make for a particularly at the Susukino site, a snow playground will paradise in all of Japan. Sapporo is the heart of this satisfying trip. keep the kids happy while the adults admire the prefecture and is home to a huge variety of local Next on the list of all things Sapporo is the beautiful ice sculptures on display. Planning a trip Hokkaido cuisine. While scallops and other seafood biggest winter event in all of Japan, the Sapporo to Hokkaido to coincide with this event is highly is in deliciously rich abundance in Hokkaido, there Snow Festival. This snow and ice festival is held recommended. Hotels are in high demand during is one highly accessible local dish that absolutely annually in early February around Odori Park this period, so make sure you book well in advance everyone knows about – Sapporo Ramen. and other various locations around Sapporo. to lock down a spot!

jSnow issue 2 │ 13 SAPPORO & OTARU Hokkaido

手 稲 PLENTIFUL SIDECOUNTRY AREAS FILLED WITH TOP QUALITY POWDER SNOW The Main Event Location for the Sapporo Winter Olympics TEINE

14 │ jSnow issue 2 backcountry areas at Teine are not prohibited from access. Skiers can access the backcountry areas through the Teine Gate at the peak of the Highland area provided that they take full responsibility for their own actions. Access to these areas is purely for those who want the opportunity to shred some backcountry and it is important to note that it may not be possible to return to the main ski area after passing through the Teine Gate. Make sure you come apporo Teine Ski Resort is a short 30 - 40 also different attractions, such as the snow park fully equipped and research the layout of the land minute drive away from the Sapporo for freestyle skiers and snowboarders to keep carefully before taking the leap. business district and captured the everyone happy. The Highland area is also known for its Sattention of ski fans worldwide during The Highland area features courses that magnificent views. There are not very many the 1972 Winter Olympics as the main event were used in the Winter Olympics and requires courses around that give you a view of the big location for events such as alpine skiing. Despite an adequate level of skill to conquer. The sprawling city below as your ski down the slopes its convenient location near Sapporo proper, it KITAKABE (North Face) course is particularly in the great outdoors. I have heard stories of boasts the longest ski slope in Hokkaido at a challenging with areas as steep as 36 degrees; it skiers hesitant to move from their position massive 6 kilometres in length and accessible will take a lot of deft weaving and ducking to get and ski down the slope because they have sidecountry areas for exciting powder snow through the sidecountry-like trees unscathed. been captivated by the stunning view. This ski mountain runs. It also features a snow park, as Although this course might seem like a goliath resort is a must visit – where else can you find a well as tubing and sledding courses for safe family to even the most-advanced skiers, the forest run similarly impressive ski slope so close to a major fun, making this resort a truly versatile location. is too difficult to groom, which turns it into a city? There is nothing quite like the luxury Sapporo Teine Ski Resort is actually two ski powder snow heaven the morning after a night of of enjoying the sights of the big city after a areas rolled into one – Teine Highland and heavy snowfall. Definitely give this run a shot, if satisfying off-piste run. Teine Olympia. Highland is situated at the top you dare. Sapporo Teine Ski Resort offers 2 handy of the mountain and is aimed at experienced The 4 Nature Zones are sidecountry trails packages for visitors. The Big Runs Bus Pack skiers, whilst Olympia takes up the bottom half accessible from the main courses and are sure to includes return bus fare from 7 major hotels in of the slope for family fun snow sports. The bring smiles to the faces of avid skiers. Exciting Sapporo and lift access, whilst the Taxi Pack combination of the two areas gives birth to the tree runs and powder snow runs (after heavy includes return taxi fare and lift access. These 6 kilometre long course, welcoming skiers of snowfall) can be found in these spots. packages must be purchased in advance so hop all levels from different walks of life. There are More happy news for hardcore skiers – the onto their website for more information.

jSnow issue 2 │ 15 SAPPORO & OTARU Hokkaido

バ ン ケ イ DROP BY THIS SKI RESORT ON A WHIM 20 Minutes Away from the City Lights BAN.K ust 20 minutes away from the city, you say? wide and 5 - 6 metres high. It was also selected as skiers and snowboarders alike should definitely That’s right, Bankei’s biggest draw point is its a course in the 2016 FIS Snowboard World Cup. drop by Bankei and try out the world class short distance from the heart of Sapporo. The The Moguls Course sees frequent visits from top courses on offer. Jresort is easily accessible by car, subway and athletes to practice their skills on the high quality Before you leave, stop by BANKEIEN on the bus, and keeps its nighttime courses lit up until run. The Half Pipe and Moguls Course were western-side of the slope to feast on the local 10pm at night, so you can drop by the resort in the both used for events in the 2017 Asian Winter Hokkaido dish of Genghis Khan, lamb grilled on evening after a day of enjoying the Sapporo Snow Games held in Sapporo and Obihiro. Freestyler hot charcoals, for a tasty way to end your day. Festival if you plan your trip to coincide with it. Bankei Ski Resort also stocks a variety of skis, snowboards and snow gear, making a quick ski trip without any gear a cinch. There is also the Snow Kids Park on site for kids to try their hand at snow tubing, and a snow escalator for novice snow enthusiasts to find their winter feet. The child-minding services at the resort also helps parents to take a breather on the ski slopes while their kids are looked after. Most of the 17 courses available at Bankei have fairly gentle slopes and are targeted towards families. Whilst the resort may have a reputation as a family ski area, there are definitely offerings for advanced skiers. Snow sport enthusiasts looking for more of a challenge can try out the Half Pipe and Moguls Course, both of which meet International Ski Federation standards. The Half Pipe is the largest of its kind in Japan at 180 metres long, 20 metres

16 │ jSnow issue 2 │ 17 jSnow issue 2 国 際 n hour’s driven hour’s from away both Sapporo and Otaru a snow-covered mountainon pass is a ski resort located at the base Mount of AsaridakeSapporo – Kokusai Ski Resort. Sapporo Kokusai and the Fortunately, the bitter cold and heavy snowfall provide With only 5 total lifts and gondolas, the ski area may While this ski resort may be a littlefurther from Sapporo An itinerary plan I would like to suggest when visiting nearby are Kiroro the coldest World Snow and receive the most snowfall in the area. The conditions are so harsh in this region that driving around at certain hours the of night is prohibited and extreme care must be taken when driving at other times during the day. the perfect conditions for a great ski resort. Professional skiers and snowboarders from Sapporo, Otaru, and the surrounds flock to this ski resort for its consistently high quality The 2.2 powder snow. kilometre long Downhill Trail, which spans from the peak the of mountain to the base, is particularly thrilling with its non-compacted fluffy makingpowder snow, for a satisfying shred. appearnot to be particularly large, the however, Fairy Trail throughTale the forest, aimed at novice skiers, is a satisfying run at 3.6 kilometres long. The plentiful snow combined with temperatures low also creates excellent powder to be snow carved in up the sidecountry areas. compared to other resorts in the area, there a number of bus packages that offer return fares at affordable prices for those who have concerns about driving to and from Sapporo Kokusai. Some packages include lunch courses and even access to nearby springs, hot so make sure to have a quick browse to find the package which best suits you. Sapporo Kokusai is a stay at the nearby Jozankei Onsen. This springhot town is only 20 minutes from away the ski resort and is the perfect place for tired fanatics snow to seek refuge. A THE BEST POWDER SNOW PARADISE NEARSAPPORO KOKUSAI SAPPORO & OTARU Hokkaido

定 山 渓 JOZANKEI JOZANKEI TAKE A DIP IN NATURAL HOT SPRING WATERS IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS OF HOKKAIDO

ONSEN o enjoy the beautiful Hokkaido scenery line the streets of this hot spring town, HANA- on offer throughout every season of the MOMIJI is particularly proactive in attracting year in the relaxing thermal waters of a tourists from around the world. Onsen lovers will Tnatural hot spring, take a trip an hour be delighted by the facilities on offer at HANA- out of Sapporo to Jozankei Onsen. The long MOMIJI, including: an open-air hot spring bath history of Jozankei Onsen began in 1866. The with a view of the Jozankei valley; 3 private baths; Buddhist monk, Miizumi Jozan, was said to have and even the opportunity to soak in the springs founded the town through many hardships after of surrounding inns. The dishes filled with local first discovering a hot spring source during his Hokkaido seafood is also a big crowd-pleaser. missionary work. The area was given the name Check out the HANA-MOMIJI website (offered “Jozankei” in recognition of Jozan’s endeavours. in English) for more information. There are 56 different hot spring sources in Iwato Kannondo Temple is one site that Jozankei Onsen. The thermal waters bubble up absolutely cannot be missed on a visit to Jozankei. from the banks and river bed of Toyohira River, On the right-hand side of the altar inside the which runs through the town, in approximately temple is a cave filled with 33 statues of the 8,600 litre bursts. The sodium chloride-rich hot deity, Kannon. Iwato Kannondo Temple is a spring waters (neutral hypotonic thermal waters) popular spiritual location, I highly recommend are clear and have a characteristically smooth a quick peek into the cave to feel the power saltiness – a quality popular amongst hot emanating from the area. Jozankei is also known spring fans in Japan. Salt sticks to your skin for its “Kappa Folklore”, which tells of a kappa as you soak in the waters and prevents (a Japanese water spirit) that once lurked in the sweat from evaporating so as to town. As such, the kappa has become the town warm you to the core. mascot and statues of it can be found scattered Of the numerous long- around town. Anyone fancy a kappa search on established Japanese inns to their next visit to Jozankei Onsen?

18 │ jSnow issue 2 OTARU 小 樽 THE WALL STREET OF THE NORTH: A HISTORICAL PORT CITY IN HOKKAIDO

jSnow issue 2 │ 19 jSnow issue 2 SAPPORO & OTARU Hokkaido SAPPORO & OTARU

OTARU 20 │ taru is a history-rich port city connected Otaru to places such as Europe and approximately 30 - 40 minutes away from Sakhalin, whilst the establishment of a rail route Sapporo by train. It is a popular tourist to Sapporo made freight services by land possible. Odestination and has a number of ski areas in With trade routes on both sea and land, Otaru close vicinity to hop on over to. For those looking became the main port of Hokkaido and, in turn, for a more relaxed city with easily accessible ski saw banks and businesses flock to the town to set The warehouses resorts to base their snow adventures, then Otaru up offices and raise capital. Otaru was thriving lining Otaru might be the place to stay. with so much business at the time that it earned Canal are now used Otaru Canal is the most popular tourist spot in the nickname, “The Wall Street of the North”. as tourist facilities and all of Otaru. Visitors are often captivated by the The merchants of Otaru held significant house establishments such nostalgic sight of stone-built warehouses lining power at the time and influenced not only the as restaurants and glass-making the canal. At night, the stone footpath adjacent markets in Hokkaido, but overseas as well. workshops. Lights illuminate to the canal is lit up by gas lamps, reminiscent of During the glory days of Otaru in the late Taisho historical buildings at night, whilst the Meiji era during the westernisation movement period, the Otaru Canal was constructed. Part rickshaws and retro-styled buses roam in Japan. The stone warehouses capture the light of the coast was reclaimed as land to create the around the streets as the city works hard to of the lamps and cast a reflection across the 40 metre wide, 1,140 metre long canal, before preserve and maintain the historical buildings mirror-like canal at night. close to 120 warehouses made of stone were built that help to boost tourism. The magical night view of Otaru alongside it. As a port city, Otaru is well-known for being harks back to the city’s past as a Nowadays, many multi-storey buildings, such blessed with delicious seafood. Otaru Beer, on thriving place of trade. Until as the Otaru branch of the Bank of Japan, still the other hand, is a popular local brew worth the Edo period, Otaru was fill the city like they did during more prosperous a taste or two. If you are a gourmand looking a small fishing town. times. A trip around Otaru to soak in the sights for good food and drink, then make sure to put The development of buildings and railways that were constructed Otaru on your list. of Hokkaido in the in days gone by will set you on a nostalgic The city is also known as a town of glass and Meiji period saw the small adventure to remember. music boxes, making it the perfect place for souvenir town grow into a city with Together with the shift towards shopping on days away from the ski slopes. a significant presence. Along modernisation, cars became the norm and the February marks the arrival of the Otaru Snow with the official development of population of Sapporo exploded, forcing Otaru Light Path, an annual event which sees the snowy Hokkaido, towns such as Sapporo to lose its crown as the central business district. streets of Otaru majestically lit up. Otaru Canal needed access to Honshu, the main island Sapporo took over the economic throne and is also spectacularly illuminated during the event, of Japan, for commodities and resources – this Otaru now sees visitors flock to it for its charms so make sure you book your tickets to see this is where Otaru Port played a vital role. Sea routes as a tourist town. magnificent sight in all its glory.

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Welcoming you in style with traditional and genuine service Guest room(Japanese&Western) in the nostalgic and romantic city of Otaru.

Dormy Inn PREMIUM OTARU 3-9-1 Inaho, Otaru-shi, Hokkaido, 047-0032 JAPAN AUTHENT HOTEL OTARU (www.authent.co.jp/english/) www.hotespa.net/hotels/otaru/ 8403KYOR

jSnow issue 2 │ 21 SAPPORO & OTARU Hokkaido KIRORO

iroro Snow World is known for receiving offer a wide range of facilities. There are also a A MAJOR SKI the most snowfall in Hokkaido. The number of great hot springs in the area, so you constant snowfall in the area means really cannot go wrong with either choice when Kthat the snow is always fresh, prompting choosing accommodation in Kiroro. RESORT JUST A skiers and snowboarders from all around the Visitors staying in Otaru or Sapporo will find world to flock to this ski resort in search of the Kiroro Snow World a welcome ski resort at a STONE’S THROW world’s best powder snow. The cat has been let convenient 40 minutes away from Otaru and 1 out of the bag and Kiroro Snow World is the hour away from Sapporo. Whilst many skiers AWAY FROM OTARU talk of the town. travel directly to Kiroro from New Chitose At the base of the mountain is the Mountain Airport, I believe it is a complete waste not to Centre Facility and the Sheraton Hotel, which is stay in Sapporo or Otaru if you have already キ connected directly to the ski area. Approximately made the journey over to Hokkaido. Another 2 kilometres away from the ski slope is the suggestion would be to spend a few days at one ロ Tribute Portfolio Hotel, the closest fully-serviced of the hotels in Kiroro during a long stay in ロ resort hotel to Sapporo and bigger than the Hokkaido to take advantage of everything the Sheraton in scale. Both hotels are excellent and resort has to offer.

22 │ jSnow issue 2 Of the 21 courses available at Kiroro, the longest stretches 4 kilometres in length. While the courses are the main draw point, the Kiroro Gondola is a handy mode of transport that allows visitors to efficiently move around the ski area and is a selling point in itself. The Asari Dynamic Course is the ski resort’s pride and joy. It starts on the peak of Mount Asari at 1,180 metres above sea level and takes you down 600 metres to the base on the 4 kilometre long run. The moderate gradient and highly-varied terrain make for a fun course to keep you on your toes. This powder snow heaven is also filled with a variety of non-compacted snow courses. Furthermore, snow fanatics will be pleased to know that there are Powder Zones – the name given to the the accessible sidecountry areas of Kiroro. The ability to access off-piste trails via ski lifts is sure to put smiles on a lot of faces. These areas are still relatively unknown to the majority of skiers, so now is the chance to have them all to yourself. For skiers looking to visit authentic backcountry areas, make sure you familiarise yourself with the members-only Kiroro Mountain Club. Members can advise each other of Kiroro mountain rules and share information, as well as have access to priority parking, wax and tune-up coupons, and coupons for high-grade ski and snowboard rentals amongst a wide range of other perks. Make sure to drop by the website for more information.

jSnow issue 2 │ 23 SAPPORO & OTARU Hokkaido TENGU MOUNT

天 狗 山 A TRICKY SKI AREA MADE FOR AND LOVED BY OTARU LOCALS

ount Tengu (Tenguyama) is a ski area located behind Otaru and can be seen from the town. There are a number Mof attractions in the area for those who have no interest in skiing including: the observation deck on the top of the mountain that has earned a 1 star listing on the Michelin Green Guide Japan; the Hananade Tengu-san, which is a large statue of a Japanese demon with a long nose, said to grant the wishes of those who rub its nose; the Tengu Museum, which houses a collection of different tengu masks from all over Japan; and the Otaru Ski Museum. This ski area is a typical local slope and can be easily missed due to its small scale. Many visitors heavy snowfall. Otaru is known for producing a are unaware of the fact that Mount Tengu was number of Olympic athletes and Mount Tengu is the first place in Hokkaido to introduce ski lifts often used as the training grounds for these elite to the area. It is also where Otaru locals go to skiers and snowboarders. With a reputation for earn their stripes – skiers who are able to conquer producing world-class athletes, the Tengu Wall is the slope in one run are considered bonafide sure to capture the hearts of advanced skiers and skiing experts. snowboarders alike. The courses at this resort run down steep A visit to Mount Tengu at night is also slopes and can be challenging even for the most recommended in order to see the beautiful experienced of skiers. Of the various courses, night scenery in the area. Whilst the the Dynamic Course, nicknamed “the Tengu tengu is a Japanese demon known Wall”, is the most unforgiving of them all at at for its long nose, the jury is still heart-stopping 42 degrees steep. This course out as to why Mount Tengu for experts is a joy to master after a night of was named as such.

24 │ jSnow issue 2 SNOW CRUISE

ONZEnow Cruise Onze is a ski resort located 20 all different levels are bound to find a suitable A RARE minutes from Otaru and 30 minutes from course to shred to their heart’s content Sapporo by car, placing it approximately This ski resort is popular amongst locals Smid-way between the two cities. This ski for the ability to enjoy the beautiful night EXPERIENCE – resort is unique in that it gets particularly busy at views with nighttime access available on all night due to its nighttime courses staying open of the courses. SKIING WITH AN until 11:00 pm. The biggest drawcard of this Whilst the ski resort might be a little too resort is its location. With the ocean right next small for you to enjoy a full day of skiing, OCEAN VIEW to the ski slope, skiers racing down the slope feel it is a great place to drop by after a day of almost as if they are diving into the sea beyond sightseeing in Otaru or Sapporo. The “Hands- the mountain. free 4 Hour Ticket” is one of the various オ Onze is easy to access and has a variety of packages on offer that bundle equipment ー courses on offer, such as: groomed runs with rental and resort admission all in one. Snow ン compacted snow, non-compacted snow courses Cruise Onze is a great resort for a casual ski ズ both standard and with moguls, and even trip and is worth adding to your list of ski relaxing forest runs. Skiers and snowboarders of slopes to visit in Hokkaido.

jSnow issue 2 │ 25 SAPPORO & OTARU Hokkaido

余 市

f you happen to find yourself in Otaru, then I Taketsuru travelled to Scotland on his own to HOME OF THE highly recommended you take the 30 minute learn the intricacies of producing whisky, fuelled train ride over to the little town of Yoichi. by his unwavering desire to find his own whisky IDespite being a small town of only 20,000 utopia. He finally settled on a small town similar FATHER OF people, there are a number of old ruins and other to Scotland with cool, humid weather and fresh spots to make for a relaxing sightseeing trip. The water with clean air – Yoichi. The heavy stone JAPANESE most famous of all of the tourist attractions in Yoichi walls of the distillery capped off with a red roof is none other than the origins of Japanese Whisky makes it look almost as though it was taken itself – the Nikka Whisky Yoichi Distillery. directly out of a Scottish town. WHISKY AND Japanese whisky has gained recognition and The distillery continues to produce authentic high praise around the world in recent times, whisky to this day and offers highly popular free NIKKA WHISKY with the Nikka Taketsuru 17 Year Old Pure tours to give visitors some insight into how their Malt taking out the World’s Best Blended whisky is produced. Whilst guided tours are only Malt Award at the 2018 World Whiskies offered in Japanese, the historical distillery area Awards (WWA). The Taketsuru brand is free for visitors to walk around with English has now racked up a total of 8 descriptions on exhibits providing fascinating international awards. tidbits of trivia. There is also an English app The Nikka Whisky Yoichi available for download, so language should not Distillery was founded by pose any issues. the father of Japanese Along with free whisky tastings, the distillery whisky, Masataka also offers visitors access to the museum and Taketsuru in 1934, the residence where Masataka Taketsuru once with the goal of lived. Make sure you travel over to the distillery producing authentic by train since drinking and driving is strictly YOICHI whisky in Japan. prohibited. 26 │ jSnow issue 2 Hokkaido ASAHIKAWA GATEWAY TO THE HIGHEST POWDER SNOW HEAVEN ON EARTH Set Up Base in Asahikawa For Fun in the Snow

Words and photography: Kazuya Baba

The belly of central Hokkaido, also known as the “powder belt”, is thus named because of the exceptionally light powder snow which falls in the region. Asahikawa, the second largest city in Hokkaido, is a mere stone’s throw away from Asahikawa Airport – the gateway to this region.

jSnow issue 2 │ 27 ASAHIKAWA Hokkaido

entral Hokkaido is home to a number of large-scale ski resorts including Furano and Tomamu, however, the aim of this article Cis introduce the joys of staying in the major city of Asahikawa whilst hopping around the local ski slopes. Major resorts such as Niseko, Rusutsu, Furano and Tomamu tend to spring to mind when the topic of Hokkaido is brought up. Their high exposure has unfortunate, but inevitable consequences – crowded ski slopes. Just imagine the sheer chaos that ensues for a taste of powder snow the morning following a good night of snowfall. Ski areas that haven’t quite caught the attention of international visitors require far less elbowing and shoving to catch a good run. In fact, sometimes lucky visitors can have a ski slope all to themselves. Setting up base in Asahikawa to discover the surrounds of Central Hokkaido allows for an exciting snow experience that cannot be found anywhere else in the world, let alone the rest of Hokkaido. This is because of its location in northern Japan, right in the heart of Hokkaido, away from coastlines. All of these conditions combine to create the perfect environment for dry powder snow to fall.

28 │ jSnow issue 2 Let’s start with the city of Asahikawa itself. much that 3 hotels have opened up their doors in Asahikawa is proud to call itself a “food-lover’s the last 3 years, with another scheduled to start town” for the plethora of gourmet offerings to be trading later this year. had. The entertainment district of Sanrokumachi Another place of interest is Asahiyama Zoo, is an epicurean’s dream with over 1,000 different which is located approximately 30 minutes from bars and restaurants lining the streets. Izakayas the city boundaries by bus. The zoo has been the (Japanese pubs), ramen, BBQ lamb and sushi backdrop and subject of various Japanese movies restaurants are just a few of the countless local and TV shows due to its sheer popularity. Fans of Hokkaido fare to be feasted upon for, above all, a the zoo find themselves visiting again and again price that won’t break the bank. to see the animals comfortable to actively roam Ski resorts which see international visitors flock around in the unique environments created to to their slopes tend to bump up their prices, as many suit each different species. tourist destinations do. Asahikawa is different in The arrival of winter signals the start of the that restaurants are priced reasonably due to the Penguin Walks at Asahiyama Zoo, which take number of locals who live and work there. place every year from December through to The worldwide ramen boom in recent times March. This is one of very few places to witness will no doubt bring attention to Asahikawa penguins happily strolling through the snow. due to its status as a city of delicious ramen. The global ramen chain restaurant – Hokkaido A QUICK 30 MINUTES AWAY Ramen Santouka – had its humble beginnings – KAMUI SKI LINKS in Asahikawa. Visitors with a particular interest in ramen should head over to the Ramen Village, Kamui Ski Links is the most prominent of all 20 minutes away from the city centre, to see and ski resorts in the local vicinity of Asahikawa. try all the different types of delicious ramen to be While it certainly feels like a local ski resort, it is had. The popularity of this area has increased so a fairly large-scale establishment with 7 ski lifts in

jSnow issue 2 │ 29 ASAHIKAWA Hokkaido

operation. The ski slopes at Kamui are spacious sidecountry offerings at Kamui, then it may fall smoke-like snow filling the air is quite a rare sight and wide-spreading. There are few ski resorts victim to swarming crowds in the future, like to behold. While many skiers will hike up to the nowadays which offer runs wide enough for other major resorts. peak to shred the backcountry trails, there are skiers and snowboarders to carve up huge arcs in Visitors to Kamui should also check out NOBu, plenty of sidecountry trails full of powder snow the freshly groomed snow. a ramen restaurant at the base of the mountain. around that do not require any hiking at all. The resort also actively opens up its The recipe for Asahikawa ramen has been passed Along with Asahidake, is Kurodake, which is sidecountry trails for thrill-seekers to shred down through many a generation at NOBu and it also known for its backcountry trails. Much like through the wild tree runs. While the publicly is well-known for its superb flavours. Asahidake, a ropeway trip is required to get to the open 5 sidecountry trails are hours of fun in top, however, there is also a lift in operation from themselves, the Bumps (Moguls) Course and BACKCOUNTRY BONANZA the end of the ropeway to make skiing all the Treerun Course are where the extreme AT ASAHIDAKE AND KURODAKE runs an easier affair. Backcountry fanatics will fun is to be had. These courses can need to head further towards the peak to satisfy be accessed through the main Asahidake is a small scale ski slope with only their urges. The course down from the ropeway area and are not recommended 2 ropeways in operation. This little ski slope is restricted to advanced skiers and snowboarders for inexperienced skiers or makes up for its size through its sidecountry and only as it is an intense run. snowboarders. If word off-piste trails. Unlike Kamui Ski Links, which Both Asahidake and Kurodake are prime gets out about the has a cult international skier and snowboarder locations for backcountry fans and an added following, Asahidake still remains comparatively advantage of these locations is that they are both untouched by international visitors. To get the renowned for their hot springs. A good, long most out of the backcountry trails may, however, soak in the thermal waters to warm up a chilled require the assistance of an experienced guide. body after a day of carving up ski runs is sure to The ropeway has a maximum capacity of 101 hit the spot. The convenience of being able to people. Upon reaching the peak of the mountain, enjoy backcountry skiing and hot springs whilst a sea of white snow beyond the trees fills the staying in the major city of Asahikawa is winter area as far as the eye can see. The sight of almost travelling in style at its best.

30 │ jSnow issue 2 POWDER SNOW HEAVEN ON EARTH

Asahikawa Higashikawa Kamikawa-Sounkyo Pippu Aibetsu Takasu Higashikagura Tohma

TAISETSU AREA

PIPPU SKI RESORT

Asahikawa, located in the center of Hokkaido is the island's SANTA SKI RESORT second largest city after Sapporo with a lot of popular and famous Mt.KURODAKE tourist attractions. Local Hokkaido cuisine can be enjoyed for reasonable price at KAMUI SKI RESORT CANMORE SKI RESORT Asahikawa. It also boasts over 30 accommodation establishments, allowing for guests, from families to small groups alike, to choose a place to suit their specific needs. With a variety of ski resorts ASAHIKAWA Mt. ASAHIDAKE nearby for skiers to enjoy the best snow the area has to offer, AIRPORT Asahikawa's convenient location makes for the perfect locale to set up base and enjoy the ski trip of a lifetime in Central Hokkaido

Recommended Ski Resorts Near Asahikawa

An excellent ski resort located a short 30 minute drive from the heart of Asahikawa. Located 50 minutes away from the heart of Asahikawa is this ski resort with a Kamui Ski Resort has 30 courses on offer including 5 glade-runs; 30 degree steep, magnificent view of the Daisetsuzan Volcanic Group. A jam-packed day of fun is 150 metre wide packed-snow runs; and wide, gentle slopes for beginners and guaranteed with 9 courses at a maximum length of 2,200 metres to shred. The families. The courses span across 100 hectares of mountain to keep skiers and large spa area in Pippu Ski Resort makes it the perfect place to wind down after snowboarders of all levels happy. The sight of frost-kissed trees lining the mountain full day of skiing. peak on a clear, early morning is also a treat that cannot be missed! he 1998 Nagano Olympics was the world's Murphy visited Niseko and realised he’d received over 17 metres. Furthermore, the resort introduction to skiing in Japan, and discovered a powder paradise. He then founded has long allowed riders to access off-piste areas since then the interest in Japanese snow SkiJapan.com and started bringing skiers and and backcountry, where the best and deepest Thas grown from a cult following to an snowboarders over to Japan. At that time just snow can be found. The Niseko rules were very international obsession. These days, some of the about everything at ski resorts was in Japanese innovative when they were introduced, and other most well known ski areas are Hakuba valley in only, and it was almost a necessity to have a guide resorts around Japan have looked to Niseko for Nagano, and Niseko in Hokkaido. or Japanese speaker with you. Since then, most guidance for their own rules and access. The Hakuba, of course, became widely known due resorts have greatly improved their facilities and region is now known as the powder capital of the to the Olympics, however, the Niseko area has services due to the rising number of riders from world, and for good reason. unexpectedly become one of the most popular around the world. As such, travel companies The Nagano area still has all the facilities ski destinations for international skiers. Over 20 like, SkiJapan.com, are sharing the powder with that it did back in 1998 and has enjoyed steady years ago Niseko was hardly known to anyone everyone, not just in Niseko, but all across Japan. success as an international resort since then. other than locals and skiers from the city of Niseko rose to popularity for a few main The main resorts, mostly located in the Hakuba Sapporo. After the success of the 1998 Winter reasons; it gets some of the most consistent Valley, host some of the best terrain in Japan with Olympics, skiing in Japan was finally on the snowfall in all of Japan, and the quality of that great lift access to on and off-piste areas. While map and travel pioneers looked to share Japanese snow is said to be the best in the world. On Hakuba doesn’t get the same quantity of snow resorts with the world. average the resort receives about 14 to 15 metres as Niseko, it does make up for it with steep runs Just over 20 years ago, powder-hound Peter of light, dry snow, and for the 2017/18 season it and a huge selection of resorts. The resorts are spread throughout the Hakuba Valley, so are a few village areas, rather than one main area. The largest of these areas is at the base of the Happo- One ski resort, and hosts a number of hotels, THE RISE OF JAPAN'S restaurants and shops. The popular Square Hotel is located here, and will be refurbished and reopened for next season under the new name, INTERNATIONAL RESORTS "Hakuba Gateway". It will be managed by the experienced team at SkiJapan.com who seek to improve hotel and transport services in the area. Hakuba's Renaissance Era and Developing Japanese With bookings now open for the upcoming Resorts Seeking Inspiration from the Facilities of Niseko 2018/19 season, and SkiJapan’s in-resort services expanding in the two regions, Niseko and Words: Alister Buckingham Hakuba show no signs of slowing down as they lead the way as Japan’s top ski destinations.

Alister Buckingham riding Niseko’s legendary powder. Photo: SkiJapan.com

32 │ jSnow issue 2

All Nippon Airways

A 5 STAR AIRLINE AND THE WINNER THE FINEST OF AIRLINE OF THE YEAR 2018 VOYAGES Are you familiar with the Japanese term, aircraft, perhaps it would be a welcome change to “omotenashi”? It can simply be defined as, start your next trip to Japan for a unique cultural “hospitality”, however, it means so much more experience on a Japanese airline renowned for IN THE SKY than that in Japan. The term encompasses the their omotenashi. idea of providing service of the utmost quality The finest experience to be had can be found from the bottom of one’s heart. There is a strong aboard the only 5 star Japanese airline to fly TO SKI importance surrounding omotenashi in Japan – from Sydney to Tokyo – All Nippon Airways how genuinely welcoming and how conscientious (ANA). In December 2015, ANA started flying can one be when serving a customer? direct routes from Sydney to Tokyo (Haneda RESORTS The emphasis on omotenashi is much the same Airport) for the first time in 16 years to meet in the Japanese airline industry; airlines with the rising demand of travellers flying between excellent service are highly regarded. While many Australia and Japan. ANA has captured the OF JAPAN trips start from the moment you step onto an attention of the public in recent years through

34 │ jSnow issue 2 special campaigns such as their Star Wars-themed 8:15am. There’s nothing like standing on the snow point of access to Tokyo, Haneda Airport aircraft. However, it is far more worth noting that the next morning after a good sleep on the plane. offers more convenient access to the capital city. the airline has been given a 5 star rating by UK Another perk of flying ANA is that ski gear Haneda Airport owes its convenient location airline service research company, SKYTRAX, can be checked-in at no extra charge. Passengers and seamless flight transfer routes to its relatively for the past 6 years running – a testament to their flying Economy Class have a baggage allowance new beginnings, having only opened for flights superb convenience and service. The airline was of up to 2 pieces with a maximum weight of 23 in 2010. Perhaps this is also another one of many also the winner of the prestigious “Airline of the kilograms per piece. One of the pieces of luggage reasons to fly ANA? Year” award at the Airline Industry Achievement to be checked-in can be ski gear of up to 292 For your next trip to Japan, choose an Awards, which recognises airlines and industry centimetres in length. Business Class passengers adventure with ANA. individuals for their outstanding achievements. have a maximum weight allowance of 32 The award acknowledged ANA’s exceedingly kilograms per bag. high service throughout a passenger’s journey Economy Class offers a wide range extras as well as its endeavours to expand flight routes. onboard, such as adjustable leg-rests, in-seat power This is the third time ANA has received this supply and even USB ports. There is also Premium award with the first in 2007 and second in 2013. Economy Class and Business Class for those A prime example of the convenience to be had who after an even more comfortable experience. when flying with ANA is the welcome ability for Premium Economy passengers can experience the snow-bound travellers to arrive early to their ski comfort of a wider seat pitch, larger monitors, as slope destinations. The Sydney to Haneda route well as lounge access and priority check-in. The offered by ANA departs at night and arrives in ANA Lounge at Haneda Airport is renowned Haneda Airport (Tokyo) early the next morning. for its high quality cuisine. Business Class seats This allows passengers to hop onto a connecting are positioned in a staggered layout, providing domestic flight and be at their destination at an all passengers with aisle access. The aisle access earlier time. Skiers and snowboarders alike can be combined with fully flat reclining seats allows for in Sapporo (Chitose Airport) for a trip to Niseko a relaxing, undisturbed flight. at 8:30am, or on their way to Central Hokkaido While Narita Airport (located in through Asahikawa (Asahikawa Airport) at neighbouring Chiba Prefecture) is also another

jSnow issue 2 │ 35 AIZU Fukushima PHOTO SHOOT IN AIZU

Making the most of the best powder snows TWO-DAY

in mainland Japan 2Words and photography: KazuyaDAY Baba

36 │ jSnow issue 2 n February 2018, I went from the middle of that have earned the area a reputation as a hidden in Fukushima Prefecture, in an hour and forty summer in Sydney, to the middle of winter powder snow heaven among Japanese skiers. minutes. Changing back to the standard railway in Japan. My destination was the Aizu region Something I should mention up front is the lines once again from there, we then travelled on Iof Fukushima Prefecture. Situated in the matter of radiation that might come to mind to Inawashiro Station, the gateway to Aizu itself, Tohoku region at the northernmost reaches when the name Fukushima is mentioned. It and arrived at around 9:00 am. of Japan’s main island, Aizu might conjure is because of this concern that the number of It was a strange sensation to leave Sydney not only up images of being far away from the gateway people visiting Fukushima Prefecture has greatly the night before to find myself in a world of snow by to Japan that is the metropolis of Tokyo, but declined in the time since the Great East Japan 9:00 am the next morning, but this only served to Fukushima Prefecture itself is the gateway to Earthquake, but the level of radiation is being reinforce the idea of how easy it is to get there. the Tohoku region as seen from Tokyo, and in a closely monitored, and your safety is assured. Aizu is home to 22 skiing areas all up, but with location that is both close and easy to access. Fukushima is also the third largest prefecture only two days to see the sights, we would need to The flight from Sydney to Haneda Airport in Japan, and while Aizu might be in the same arrives early in the morning, and you can get to prefecture where the incident occurred, it is far Aizu itself by as early as 9:00 am that day via the away from the affected areas, so there is no need bullet train. Not only easy to access, the inland for concern. Since overseas skiers have yet to position of Aizu means the humidity there is realise this, now is the perfect chance to have this low, making for fluffy, excellent powder snows powder snow heaven all to yourself. I decided to take a taxi from Haneda Airport to Tokyo Station, instead of braving the potential difficulties of the standard railway lines, because of all the photographic gear and other luggage we had in addition to our skiing gear. The cost came to around 5,000 yen, but it’s a reasonable price if you’re travelling in a group. Changing over to the bullet train from Tokyo Station, we arrived in Koriyama City, the largest city

jSnow issue 2 │ 37 AIZU Fukushima

head on to our next spot the following evening, to access, and the skiing area itself is not so large this time by rental car. With a goal of visiting as at 6 lifts in total, so it sees fewer skiers coming many skiing spots across the country as possible to visit. It would be no exaggeration to say the in a few short weeks, such a tight schedule was area is almost completely unknown overseas. The impossible to avoid. At Inawashiro, we met up only visitors that come to this spot are locals who with snowboarder and guide Kei, an expert on know it well already, and hardcore skiers from the local area and one of the subjects for our overseas who simply happened to hear something photo shoot. about it. With the help of Kei’s advice, we put together Nekoma is said to have some of the highest a plan that would allow us to make the most quality snow in Aizu. The reason for this is of our limited two-day schedule while getting because of the thick and frequent snowfalls it the best possible shots. On the first day, it was experiences, the northern-facing aspect that Nekoma we decided upon as the place to enjoy keeps the snow out of direct sunlight and makes some of the best and lightest powder in the area. it hard to melt, and the long period that fresh snows remain. While the quality of snow in other NEKOMA, HIDDEN SKI RESORT areas might gradually deteriorate, it is quite often WITH FIRST-RATE POWDER that Nekoma alone remains fresh. The weather when we went was, again, It was a trip of thirty minutes from Inawashiro snowy. Not the best conditions for taking Station to Nekoma in Kei’s car. Here, we met up photos, but the best possible conditions for with another skier who would be a subject for us, fresh snow to continue building up while and took the lifts right away to the tops of the you’re hitting the slopes. The easy nature of mountains. Since Nekoma is situated deep in the the land makes Nekoma home to many readily very heart of the Aizu area, it takes a little longer enjoyable sidecountry areas, and it is for this

38 │ jSnow issue 2 reason that it has earned the position of a weekends. Inaccessible via the lifts on weekdays, much-loved spot among hardcore skiers. This this tour allows a small number of people to was no exception, we took the best advantage access an area via snowmobile (cat) on the of the sidecountry areas as possible, coming weekends. Getting to ski down this course where across natural jumps and tunnels created by you can enjoy snows built up all through the week the forms of fallen trees and taking shots of is quite the experience. skiing and snowboarding side by side. The While our schedule didn’t fall on a weekend snows only grew heavier as the afternoon this time, we were able to get some shots out in arrived, putting an end to our photographic the sidecountry areas and skiing fields thanks to endeavours in a matter of hours, but we were recommendations from our local expert, Kei. The still able to get a number of good shots. sheer size of this resort offers a great many places to enjoy. We were able to get some great shots THE MASSIVE SKIING AREA in addition to the ones we captured at Nekoma OF ALTS BANDAI the day before, and I hope they convey a sense of the sheer potential of the snows that Aizu has on Still fresh from the excitement of Nekoma the offer. Finishing up our two short, but full days of day before, the next morning, Kei came to pick shooting, I took the wheel as we drove onwards. us up at the hotel where we were staying. That There are a great many wonderful skiing areas in day, Kei was dressed in a bright yellow, newly Japan, but those that match the quality of Aizu acquired getup given the previous day’s difficulty are few and far between. in showing up on camera. In addition to the skiing resorts of Hokkaido Our destination for the day was the largest and Nagano that are already popular among skiing area in all of Aizu, Alts Bandai, whose overseas skiers, why not add Aizu to the list of main attraction is the cat ski tour held only on areas to visit this coming season?

jSnow issue 2 │ 39 AIZU Fukushima

40 │ jSnow issue 2 jSnow issue 2 │ 41 8403KYOR Urabandai Grandeco Tokyu Hotel Urabandai Lake Resort

There are many points of interest near Urabandai Grandeco There is Lake Hibara behind our lobby. Tokyu Hotel: from the sightseeing to relaxing in the nature. This is the only place in Japan that you https://www.grandeco.com/english/ can see the lobby with its luxurious chandeliers and lavishly used marble. http://www.lakeresort.jp

Active Resorts Urabandai

Welcome to the Snow Heaven Rich in natural beauty with different magnificent colors-Goshiki Lake is only 7minutes walk away from the hotel. Only 20-minute drive to Grand Deco Ski AIZU･BANDAI Resort and Nekoma Ski Resort. http://www.daiwaresort.jp.e.zr. Recommendations for the best hotels hp.transer.com/urabandai/ in the area.

HOTEL LISTEL INAWASHIRO Hoshino Resorts Bandaisan Onsen Hotel

LISTEL INWASHIRO is located at the gateway to AIZU AREA. Hoshino Resorts Bandaisan Onsen Hotel is connected to the Hoshino Resorts Alts You can enjoy spending “a slow living” at the hotel Listel Inawashiro. Bandai ski resort directly which is one of the largest ski resorts of northeast Japan http://www.listel-inawashiro.jp/english/ with 29 courses and famous for its new parks. www.bandaisan.co.jp/en/

YUZAWA Niigata

ECHIGO YUZAWA A SKIER’S PARADISE 80 MINUTES FROM THE BIG CITY Choose Your Own Adventure from Echigo Yuzawa

Words and Photography: Kazuya Baba

Echigo Yuzawa has continued to grow in popularity over the past few years. Its biggest selling point is as an easily accessible region of heavy snowfall at a short 1 hour and 20 minutes away by bullet train from the gateway to Japan – Tokyo. There have been countless features to date that only glance upon the region’s ease of access and convenience of having 14 different ski resorts in the surrounding areas, whilst only superficially throwing in the odd sentence or two about the most important aspect – the quality of the snow. In February 2018, I set off on a mission to dig deeper into the treasure trove that is Echigo Yuzawa and was reminded, once again, of the area's simmering potential.

Ishiuchi Maruyama

44 │ jSnow issue 2 A decadent lunch box on the bullet train Echigo Yuzawa from Gala The drunken salaryman at Ponshukan Ponshukan in Echigo Yuzawa

MAKING A SECOND MAMMOTH SKI AREA but have never gone into detail about how great to rival a well-known, gigantic resort in the THROUGH COLLABORATION this really is. My personal view has changed area – Naeba and Kagura Ski Resort. The recently and I realised the true significance combination of 3 ski resorts with their own Of the 14 total ski resorts in Yuzawa, Gala behind the connected resorts when I visited different selling points and charms makes for Yuzawa Snow Resort is known for being Ishiuchimaruyama Ski Area earlier this year. a fun experience. the most convenient of them all as the only When you purchase a combined lift pass, Of the 3 resorts, Gala is known for its ski resort in the world where you can head you get access to Gala, Yuzawa Kogen and high quality snow owing to its particularly straight onto the ski slope station from the Ishiuchimaruyama for a total of 48 courses to lofty location compared to the other 2. It bullet train platform. Writers tend to lean shred to your heart’s content. is also situated between Yuzawa Kogen towards expanding on the convenience of the Anywhere you go, ski resorts in the area will and Ishiuchimaruyama, giving it the added facilities at Gala, such as the fully-stocked bombard you with different marketing jargon advantage of easy access between all 3 resorts. rental shops to allow for skiing without any to bring you to their slopes. Amongst all of Yuzawa Kogen is known for having the personal gear on hand, and the decked-out this marketing, there is bound to be a slight longest history as the first ski resort opened powder room. I, on the other hand, want to hidden agenda to dissuade you from visiting in the Yuzawa region. Despite being a family- draw attention to the ability to roam back and rival resorts. These are all merely business friendly ski resort, it also has very challenging forth between Yuzawa Kogen Ski Resort and ploys and have nothing to do with visitors courses at the top of the slope to add to its Ishiuchimaruyama Ski Area. having a good time at each of the various wide variety of runs on offer. The biggest We here at jSnow have briefly touched on establishments. advantage of setting up base at this resort is, this aspect in previous features about this area, Ski tourists will find this huge ski resort without a doubt, its location. While Gala

8401FOUR

Private Onsen(hot spring) and Meal Stylish and relaxing, with 4 rooms. served in your room. Western atmosphere coupled with Japanese warm hospitality. Enjoy your stay with the natural hot springs and high class space.

Web:http://www.quattro-yuzawa.jp/ Sakura-Tei Oyado Honjin Senzaitei Mail:[email protected] TEL:(+81)25-788-0444 http://sakura-tei.jp/ http://oyado-honjin.com/ http://senzantei.jp/

jSnow issue 2 │ 45 YUZAWA Niigata

Ishiuchi Maruyama

46 │ jSnow issue 2 Hanging air at Ishiuchimaruyama The slopes of Ishiuchimaruyama Filling up the belly at Ishiuchimaruyama

Kicking up snow at NASPA New Otani

A furry NASPA New Otani visitor

Yuzawa is extremely convenient with its WONDERS STILL UNKNOWN TO OVERSEAS travelling around Japan. Farmers and impressive base station, it is generally viewed SKIERS – ISHIUCHIMARUYAMA farmhands in this thriving agricultural region as a day-trip resort. Those looking to stay a put away their farming gear to work in these little longer in the area will most likely find Ishiuchimaruyama Ski Area has a long history. restaurants over the winter when tending to themselves around the hot spring town of It was opened for business in 1949 and has their fields is not much of an option. A lot of Echigo Yuzawa, which is filled with places of the biggest ski slope in the area. In fact, it the restaurant owners incorporate their own accommodation and shops to explore. Yuzawa was historically known as the grounds for a crops into their menus and I can guarantee the Kogen Ski Resort is only a few minutes away, large Japanese skiing competition. As an old quality of their dishes. Many gourmands with by foot, from Echigo Yuzawa Station. ski area, it does not come under any national a penchant for skiing often come all the way to It is by all means possible to set up forest pruning restrictions, making for this resort purely to feast on the food. base in one of the many hotels and inns incredibly freeing runs down its massive slope. Although many ski resorts in the area offer around Echigo Yuzawa Station to travel Ishiuchimaruyama is also said to have the best nighttime skiing courses, Ishiuchimaruyama over to Gala and Ishiuchimaruyama Ski views in the whole area from its mountain top. is particularly renowned for their spacious Resorts. In the same vein, it might be a Facility-wise, Ishiuchimaruyama is a superb nighttime course which stretches from close more interesting option to stay in one of the ski resort, however, its typically-local business- to the top of the mountain itself. Now might various accommodative options available in style means that it is still relatively unknown be the perfect chance to hit up the slopes Ishiuchimaruyama to cut out the necessity for to overseas ski tourists. While there are many here while international exposure is still extra trips. inns and hotels around the area, the chances fairly low. There are also shuttle buses in Furthermore, there is a huge shopping of them having much experience with foreign operation from Echigo Yuzawa Station, for district within Echigo Yuzawa station filled visitors is fairly slim. In saying that, for those those who are staying in that area, to make with various local delicacies and souvenirs, looking for an authentic Japanese cultural a quick trip over to the resort first thing in so I highly recommend a quick visit there, experience – this might be the perfect place the morning a cinch. at the very least. This location is also home to stay. If you do not find the possibility If you are looking for a more luxurious stay to Ponshukan, a unique place with vending of having to deal with a language barrier in a Western-style hotel, then NASPA New machines that allow you to taste various daunting, then this could present you with an Otani might be a place worth looking into. different sake (Japanese rice wine). Look out opportunity for a unique experience. The ski area adjacent to the hotel is rather for the statue of a drunken salaryman (white- Another unique aspect of this ski area is the small, as it is targeted towards family skiers, collar worker) when you head out of the variety of restaurants to choose from with 23 but with all of the shuttle buses operating station gates and further within the shopping establishments for you to whet your appetite from the station, it should not be a problem district to lead you in the right direction with. I have not come across any other ski to hop on over to one of the numerous other towards Ponshukan. resort with such a selection in my experiences ski resorts nearby.

jSnow issue 2 │ 47 YUZAWA Niigata

NAEBA AND KAGURA – BACK AND and drop on by if this happens to pique your SIDECOUNTRY FUN AT ITS BEST interest. The sidecountry courses available at Naeba Naeba and Kagura Ski Resort, a 40-50 minute Ski Resort are also worth mentioning. Up bus ride from Echigo Yuzawa Station, is widely until my trip earlier this year, I was under known for its huge course at 4 kilometres in the impression that off-course access was length. This mammoth-sized ski resort is also prohibited. On my research trip, I went known as one of the venues for the 2015-2016 through the necessary steps to gain entry and FIS Alpine Ski World Cup Tour. Shredding through Naeba realised the wonders of this off-piste area. At At the base of the slope is the Naeba Prince the end of the No. 1 Gondola lift station is a Hotel which is a huge establishment boasting small guard hut. If you arrive well equipped a total of 1,224 guest rooms, a variety of and submit the required paperwork then restaurants and stores, and even hot springs you will be able to access the off-course trails to provide a one-stop spot for all of your without any issues. The slopes in this area are accommodative needs. rather steep, so I highly recommend well- While Naeba is already a huge resort in its experienced skiers to take on the challenge of own right, the world’s largest gondola in the this area. world – the Dragondola (a portmanteau of the The beginnings words “dragon” and “gondola”) connects it to of a kimono LIVING THE SNOW-COUNTRY LIFESTYLE IN Kagura to turn the two resorts into a bonafide MINAMIUONUMA CITY behemoth of a ski area. The two resorts combined have a whopping 35 gondolas and I received welcome assistance from Niigata lifts in operation with a total of 44 courses to Prefecture officials on my trip earlier this shred, making it and the Yuzawa area the 2 year to cover the Yuzawa and Naeba areas. largest ski areas in all of Japan. After seeing what the ski areas had to offer, If you are a ski fanatic looking for I was given the opportunity to experience backcountry and sidecountry trails to conquer the local lifestyle and culture of these snowy then I highly recommend this area as it is also towns. While this information may not be of renowned in Japan as a great off-piste spot. much use for the casual tourist, it is still an If there’s only thing you take away from experience worth sharing. Perhaps learning this section about Kagura, then it should be about the cultural background of this region the No. 5 Romance Lift. It is a lift accessible and the driving force behind these towns will from another lift at the peak of Kagura and help to bring about a new perspective upon has fantastic lift-side offerings. While the your travels here. normal runs already provide endless hours of I visited Uonuma, a short distance away fun, the side and backcountry areas should from Yuzawa. Uonuma is a city in the not be missed, especially considering how snow country where the residents are said easy to access they are (prior research, such to embrace the joys of each passing season Hard at work making a kimono as tours, should always be undertaken before as they live in harmony with their natural venturing off course). The off-piste areas can surroundings. The first place I decided to visit also be accessed upon alighting from the lift in the area was a kimono fabric shop. itself. The entrances to these areas are highly Kimonos have a long history in Japan and guarded and access will not be permitted occupy an important place in traditional unless you are equipped properly with items Japanese culture. The traditional garment such as beacons and shovels. As long as you is still worn nowadays for celebrations and come completely prepared and submit all special occasions and this region of Japan is of the required paperwork then you should particularly well known for producing them. The Yukimouro have no problems getting in. Make sure to do Cellar in Uonuma Now, if I were to delve into the particulars of some further research into the requirements the history of kimonos and how to wear them,

48 │ jSnow issue 2 Snow trails in Kagura

jSnow issue 2 │ 49 YUZAWA Niigata

Uonuma no Sato An old craftsman in Uonuma

Clear Uonuma water Yamagazuke pickles

I would start to enter into niche territory, so I Minamiuonuma City amongst the tranquil and preserved food culture of this region. will save those details for another day. Instead, garden scenery, and features an array of Uonuma is filled with a number of pickle I invite you to have a gander at the included establishments that aim to promote nostalgia and preserved food stores. Of the various photos so that you can imagine just how much and calm, including: Hakkaisan Yukimuro stores, I visited Imanari Tsukemonoten, work goes into making a kimono. Traditional Cellar, which includes a café, store and which is a long-established store still making kimonos are all made by hand and it often kitchen-goods shop all in one; Nagamori, a pickles in wooden tubs to this day. Various takes months to complete all of the intricate soba restaurant; SATO-YA, a sweets shop; and vegetables and edible wild plants harvested steps necessary from start to finish – this, in Tsutsumiya Hachikura a gift shop. from Minamiuonuma are left to ferment in turn, leads to an expensive price tag. It is fair The Hakkaisan Yukimuro Cellar is a Hakkaisan junmai ginjo lees to make their to say that the effort involved well and truly natural refrigerated cellar made with snow, famous Yamagazuke pickles. justifies this worthy investment. and stocks a variety of different Japanese Imanari Tsukemonoten pickles have been The reason why fine arts and textiles are so rice wines or sake. The snow cellar is made of made the same way for as long as they have deep-rooted in this area can all be traced back 1,000 tonnes of snow. Ageing sake for up to 5 been in business and do not contain any to its location on the belt of heavy snowfall. years in the snow cellar allows for a smoother additives. All the pickles in store are made People who live in regions of heavy snowfall flavour profile to develop. entirely by hand. While not many Australians find themselves stuck indoors during winter. After taking a train from Echigo Yuzawa will have tried pickles made from sake lees, I This forces locals to hone their fine motor to Itsukamachi Station, the facility is would recommend those who appreciate subtle skills, as not much else can be done indoors, approximately 15 minutes away by taxi. I vegetable flavours combined with the fragrance and thus makes for the ideal conditions for highly recommend a tour of the facility of rice wine lees to give it a shot, because I kimono-making. The harsh winters gave birth for those who are interested in a cultural guarantee you will keep coming back for more! to a region of master kimono-makers. experience in the snow country. The Japanese snow wonderland of Niigata. The next place I visited was a facility which My last stop was a pickle store located If you are after both a ski trip of a lifetime and features the world-renowned Japanese rice approximately 10 minutes away by foot from a cultural journey in the snow country, then wine, Hakkaisan, brewery – Uonuma no Muikamachi Station. The harsh winters of the how about a trip to this region for a chance to Sato. The facility is located in the corner of snow country helped to foster the fermented discover a new experience?

50 │ jSnow issue 2 Niigata MYOKO

妙 高 MYOKO RELIVING THE BEAUTY THROUGH STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BACK AND SIDECOUNTRY SKIING IN MYOKO

Words and photography: Kazuya Baba

jSnow issue 2 │ 51 MYOKO Niigata

anking highly with Niseko, Hakuba and Nozawa is another ski resort Rpopular amongst Australian snow- 赤 sport lovers – Myoko Kogen. This ski resort is located at the base of Mount Myoko, 倉 a mountain featured in Kyuya Fukuda’s bestselling One Hundred Mountains of Japan. Myoko Kogen is comprised of 4 main ski areas within the national park Easily accessible sidecountry areas adjacent to the main ski course – Suginohara, Ikenotaira Hot Springs, Akakura Hot Springs and Seki Hot Springs. Each of the 4 ski areas has its own AKAKURA distinctive features. Suginohara prides itself on its spacious slopes perfect for long-stretching runs; Ikenotaira is targeted towards families or skiers and snowboarders looking for a terrain park experience; Akakura has its bustling onsen The view up towards Mount Myoko from the Akakura ski slopes town and a variety of courses to suit people from all walks of life; and Seki Hot Springs is located deep in the mountains with courses for more advanced skiers. We here at jSnow have visited Myoko many times incidentally through trips to Niigata Prefecture every year for research to write articles for our sister publication, jStyle. Yet Australians are already starting to tap into the beauty of the Myoko region despite our lack of active coverage of the area. We figured it would be a waste not to show off all of the pictures we have taken on our side and backcountry adventures in Myoko, which is the reason for this very feature! Myoko is an extremely safe and hassle-

free region to experience off-piste skiing. Easy access to the back This is why we will be introducing snaps of country areas via the ski lift, where Seki Hot the region, focused mainly on backcountry Springs can be seen in areas, with captions to help bring you along Enter sidecountry areas at your own risk the distance on the trip. We hope these photos will help to ignite the passion within you for backcountry skiing in Myoko! Returning to the ski area through Looking back at the ski-trails upon exiting the It goes without saying that visitors a tight tunnel (photo by Australian sidecountry area should not casually ski in unfamiliar off- ski magazine editor, Owen) piste areas. A tour around the area with an experienced tour guide should be the first step taken towards backcountry skiing alone. We have engaged the services of tour companies such as Itadaki Tours and Dancing Snow for our trips, and highly recommended readers to do the same.

52 │ jSnow issue 2 An old sign in Seki Hot Springs oozing with a strange charm

This mountain valley behind Seki Hot Springs is said to be the largest in all of Myoko

Nothing beats carving up a pristine slope

Magnificent powder snow just a short distance away from the lift

A rare shot of me in front of the camera

Akakura Hot Springs at night

SEKI

関

jSnow issue 2 │ 53 MYOKO Niigata

池 の 平 IKENOTAIRA

The view to expect on a clear day Smiles all around whilst skiing through the great outdoors

Double-checking the route before setting off

Finishing off with a picnic on a makeshift snow table and chair

Heading further up from the top of Ikenotaira Hot Spring Ski Area

The satisfaction of hiking up a mountain on your own two feet

An off-kilter tree, unable to withstand the weight of the snow

54 │ jSnow issue 2 An Itadaki Tours staff member enjoying the naturally-formed half pipe

Easy to access powder snow ready to be skied upon straight off the lift to the top of the slope

A picturesque shot of larch trees reaching up to the sky on a run down the gentle base area slopes SUGINOHARA

A little fun in the snow turned into a huge 杉 smiley face の 原

jSnow issue 2 │ 55 SHIGA Nagano

SHIGA KOGEN THE GRANDEST SKI RESORT ON THE PEAK OF JAPAN

Words and photography: Kazuya Baba

56 │ jSnow issue 2 higa Kogen, one of the most renowned ski guaranteeing that top quality powder snow is to stay in the giant, main area of Shiga Kogen resorts in Nagano Prefecture, boasts a total fresh and plentiful. It is highly recommended and plan their trips to explore the slopes there (a of 52 gondola lifts and is the largest ski resort that avid skiers and snowboarders plan extended highly recommended travel option), it would be a Sin all of Japan. It originally comprised of 18 stays in the area as it will take days to conquer all huge pity to forego the chance to experience the independent ski slopes until they decided to unify, of the runs on offer. top quality snow and breathtaking sights on offer creating one giant ski resort to improve visitor access While almost all of the ski areas can be at Yokoteyama. and allow skiers to ski from place to place. Areas reached with boots attached to skis, the The Manza Onsen Ski Resort (famous for its that cannot be skied to can be reached via inter- Yokoteyama Ski Resort, located outside of the hot springs) and Kusatsu International Ski Resort connecting shuttle buses, which means only a single connected areas, is one spot that cannot be can be accessed via off-piste courses from the top of lift pass is required for access to all areas. missed. This is because it holds the crown as the Yokoteyama – another one of its big selling points. Most of the ski resort is located deep in the highest ski resort in Japan at a height of 2,307 It is definitely worth hiring a guide familiar with mountains, over 1,500 metres above sea level, metres above sea level. Although visitors tend the area to enjoy all of the runs on offer.

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jSnow issue 2 │ 57 SHIGA Nagano

The main area of Shiga Kogen is comprised The St. Bernard mascots at Okushiga Kogen of 15 inter-connected ski areas, each with its Hotel are adored by all who come across them. own unique charms to keep even the most Guests can even don a pair of snow shoes and adventurous skier satisfied. The Giant Ski Area take them out for walks if they so please. The of Shiga Kogen, renowned for its steep slopes, is hotel even offers barbeques outdoors, making just one of the many areas asking to be explored. stays at the hotel a pure treat. Slopes such as Ichinose and Takamagahara in The Hotel Grand Phenix Okushiga takes the central area have well balanced layouts with luxury to the next level. It is the accommodation steep runs in the upper regions for advanced of choice for the Japanese Imperial Family and skiers and flatter runs in the lower regions. This world-renowned conductors such as Seiji Ozawa. central area of Shiga Kogen is also home to a Due to its location in the depths of Shiga number of large hotels. Kogen, it is not uncommon for visitors to Another location accessible from the central never step foot in the Okushiga Area during area is Terakoya. This area is known amongst their time in the huge resort. Okushiga Kogen locals for its particularly high quality powder is definitely worth a visit; the uniquely calm snow. It is a gem hidden within the more atmosphere of the area is sure to bring a mainstream resorts. welcome change of pace to all. Conversely, Higashidate is well known Shiga Kogen owes its slow-melting snow for having the best course in the area. Skiers and comparatively long snow season to its high shredding a line down the mountain will be met altitude. It is still popular amongst skiers during with a variety of slopes, from flat areas turning spring from March through to May, making it into steep runs, to bumpy and exciting spots. the perfect place to hit the slopes outside of the The Higashidate area is highly recommended for peak season. In fact, spring is when the “Snow visitors looking to enjoy lengthier ski runs. Monkey Beer Live” event is held every year. The Venturing further down from the central event combines over 100 different types of craft area leads to the very depths of Shiga Kogen beer with live music performances and is a hit – Okushiga Kogen. Okushiga is a ski resort amongst international visitors. It is generally frequented by the Japanese Imperial Family and held in mid-March, so it might be worth is known for its gentle atmosphere. Both the planning a trip over there to experience the Okushiga Kogen Hotel and Hotel Grand Phenix fun the event has in store. Another joy worth Okushiga are located at the base of the mountain experiencing is the hot springs in the area. The and welcome their guests with utmost excellence. mineral make-up of hot springs differ from

Hotel Villa Ichinose, Shigakogen

★ We locate at center of “Ichinose Village”, and “Ichinose Tanne-No- Mori ski area” is just behind us. ★ We have Chinese & Japanese restaurant and convenience shop “Yamazaki Shop”. ★There is fire place and sofa at our lobby. Free Wi-Fi access. ★Japanese tatami room, spa shared public bathroom. 1-3 minutes walk to 7149 HIRAO, YAMANOUCHI-MACHI, SHIMOTAKAI-GUN, NAGANO, 381-0401 JAPAN Ski / Snowboard Area Tel:81-269-34-2704 e-mail:[email protected] URL:http://www.villa101.biz 7966VILL

58 │ jSnow issue 2 place to place which makes for a relaxing jaunt to compare the different spas around. Those who have visited Shiga Kogen may already be aware that there was only ever one ATM in the entire area, which only operated on weekdays. Many places in Japan still do not accept credit cards, making cash a necessity. Visitors from overseas have, no doubt, been highly inconvenienced by this on their travels to Shiga Kogen. Fortunately, this has been rectified by introduction of a new foreign exchange machine which accepts notes from 12 different countries. The foreign exchange machine can be found inside Ichinose Diamond Snowcan rental shop in Ichinose. The store is conveniently located in the central area and should be noted for future reference. Large hotels can be found all over Shiga Kogen and some hotels house various different establishments within them. There are no streets lined with shops or restaurants to be found in the area. While visitors looking for a calm and quiet stay may enjoy this aspect of the resort, those who want to stroll around town on foot might be left wanting. For visitors seeking a more bustling experience, a stay at the hot spring town of Yudanaka, which is situated at the base of the mountain, 30 minutes by car from Shiga Kogen, might be the way to go. Buses operate from Yudanaka to the ski slopes to open up another possible suggestion for would-be travellers.

Shiga Kogen ee a sea o Snow Sports Gear n s f c a lo c u u d HigashiTateyama o ! RENTAL ! Y &

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Hit the slopes and enjoy the *Many fat skis and wide variety of gears! stunning view from the top *Boots up to US Size 15! of the mountain! *Over-glasses goggles! www.shigakogen.co.jp SHIGA KOGEN Shop & High-quality Rental 7149 Shiga Kogen, Hirano, Yamanouchi City, NAGANO, 381-0401 Skis, Snowboard, Wear & Accessories snowcan.com 8264SIGA

jSnow issue 2 │ 59

MADARAO Nagano

idden amongst huge, glitzy and glamorous maintained and patrolled areas of most ski slopes, mecca” because the resort markets itself as “powder Nagano-based ski resorts such as Shiga, which is why access is restricted for the most part. snow and glade-run lover-friendly”. Hakuba and Nozawa is a unique little gem Some places are so strict about the safety of their Most ski resorts in Japan would prefer their Hsparkling with all its might – Madarao guests that skiers found in these areas are liable to guests to avoid heading into the off-trail forests, Kogen Ski Resort. Every year, Madarao Kogen have their lift passes cancelled or revoked. so skiers must make a conscious decision to do makes the effort to distance itself from the In many cases, skiers hesitate to take on glade- so if they wish. At Madarao, trees are pruned at crowd at Australian expos by setting up a runs on sidecountry trails because of the risks posed backcountry entrances to improve access to these booth independently from the general Nagano to themselves. Madarao Kogen, however, is one of areas, and snow compactors groom the exits to Prefecture stand. Its hard work has clearly the few ski resorts to openly recommend skiers to actively help glade-run and powder-trail lovers get paid off with a growing following of hardcore enjoy the thrill of sidecountry skiing. Avid fans of the most out of their experience. Weeding and skiers and snowboarders, as well as heightened Madarao often refer to the resort as a “sidecountry tree-pruning takes place over summer to ensure recognition in recent years. that skiers visiting early in the ski season have Skiers who have visited ski areas in Japan smooth runs, even when the snow is relatively have most likely come across signs prohibiting sparse in the forest. access outside of designated courses. Off-piste With the amount of care and effort the resort or sidecountry trails are generally located off the takes, and the wide variety of sidecountry and glade-run trails, fans of the resort are quick to head straight to Madarao following heavy snowfall. Many of Japan’s renowned ski resorts are situated within national parks. These ski resorts have their hands tied when it comes to maintaining or even going near areas outside of the ski slope. Madarao takes advantage of its MADARAO location outside of national park grounds by doing whatever they please to their ski slopes KOGEN and the surrounds. Wood retrieved from regular pruning is used to create makeshift log jumps and other obstacles to bump up the fun factor. 13 ENDORSED GLADE- Madarao is highly recommended for its wide variety of courses for skiers and snowboarders of RUN COURSES TO GET all levels, as well as its great location. It is situated a short 40 minutes away from popular areas such THE HEART PUMPING as Yuzawa, Myoko and Snow Monkey Park. Words: Kazuya Baba Language is also not an issue, with lessons and rental advice available in English. Be sure to put this relatively unknown sidecountry paradise on your list for your next winter adventure!

62 │ jSnow issue 2 Madarao.jp

[email protected]

@madaraoski

@the-madarao

4 reasons why you should visit Madarao Mountain Resort

Top quality powder snow and glade- 1 skiing runs.

Easy access - 1 hour and 50 minutes 2 from Tokyo by Shinkansen and 20 minutes from the Shinkansen station by bus or car.

Close to neighbouring ski slopes (40 MADARAO minutes to both Nozawa Onsen and IIYAMA 3 KANAZAWA Myoko Kogen). Madarao is a great TOKYO place to set up base and take day trips to surrounding resorts.

･1 hour and 20 minutes by Enjoy the ease of the Ski In Ski Out Shinkansen from Kanazawa MadaPow! 4 access at the main hotels - Madarao Experience powder tree riding ･1 hour and 50 minutes by Shinkansen from Tokyo Kogen Hotel, Monaile Madarao and Hotel Tangram.

8402MADR JAPAN HAKUBA Nagano

HAKUBA beauty of Mother Nature ensures there is always something to do in Hakuba. A POPULAR Quite a number of interesting stores and restaurants have opened up in Hakuba in the past JAPANESE SKI few years. Those travelling to Hakuba by bus will surely notice various big name snow brands, such SPOT as Patagonia and North Face, with shop fronts Words and photography: Kazuya Baba for their glade-runs, non-compacted near the bus terminal. The stylish café attached snow courses and ski parks; and to the branch of North Face here is particularly Hakuba Iwatake Ski Field for its popular amongst Australian visitors during the 360 degree panoramic view of the afternoon. The Australian ski shop, Rhythm Northern Alps and Hakuba Basin, Snowsports, also has its own branch in Hakuba. just to name a few. It is also worth Inside of Rhythm Snowsports is Evergreen, a akuba and Niseko lead the pack on the noting the recent introduction of the Hakuba company which offers off-piste tours for keen ski scene in Japan. While many skiers and Valley Lift Pass which allows holders access to 9 skiers. Rhythm Snowsports is the perfect place to snowboarders may have visited Hakuba ski resorts in Hakuba. drop by to pick up some gear and book a tour for Hbefore, it is actually home to a number of The sheer number of off-piste areas found in a backcountry run. different ski areas rather than just simply one. most of the ski resorts in Hakuba surpasses that of Over in the Hakuba Iwatake area is a new There are a fair few difficult courses in the area any other place in Japan. Hakuba is often referred brewery that has become the place to be every with Hakuba Happo-One Winter Resort drawing to as “the most beautiful village in Japan” thanks night. The locally brewed Hakuba craft beer is in the most skilled of skiers in Japan as the largest to the breath-taking views and nature-filled a one-a-kind drop that cannot be beat. There of them all. Other ski resorts in Hakuba have their surroundings of its location in the Northern Alps is fun to be found both on and off the slopes own unique selling points, such as Hakuba Goryu of central Honshu. The various establishments at Hakuba; the booming area is only going to Snow Resort and Hakuba47 Winter Sports Park dotted around this village enveloped in the continue growing from here on out.

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8123ALPI

64 │ jSnow issue 2 Nagano NOZAWA

or a change of pace from the average ski trip, look no further than Nozawa Onsen. Nozawa is up there with Niseko and FHakuba in terms of popularity amongst skiers for the unique experience it offers as a ski resort and onsen (hot spring) town rolled into one. During the peak season, the bars and restaurants in this town are filled with NOZAWA Australians and other visitors from overseas. While the grandeur of the ski resort is an A CHARMING obvious attraction, the onsen town sprawling at the base of the mountain is a treat in itself. ONSEN TOWN AND All of the restaurants and shops are gathered conveniently within walking distance of one GIANT SKI RESORT another and the nostalgic feel of the town creates a wonderful atmosphere to stroll around in. Words: Kazuya Baba Nozawa Onsen is widely known for its high quality hot spring waters, however, the root of (at their own risk). The sidecountry areas its popularity stems from the ability to meander are opened up for skiers to hop into, around town dressed in provided they take full responsibility for a yukata to try out the their actions, and are highly popular for different baths scattered the fun powder snow glade-runs on offer. The combination of old and new, Japanese and all around the place. Nozawa Onsen is in a state of constant change Western culture, is what makes this onsen town Over in the ski resort, with a new brewery, stylish cafés and other so charming. the Yamabiko Course up various restaurants popping up around the place Another draw of Nozawa is the number of in the mountain-top area to cater for the sudden influx of international former world cup and Olympic athletes in the is what grabs the attention skiers and snowboarders. Hotel Haus St Anton, area due to the prolific fostering of Japanese of skiers. There are 3 in the heart of the town, brews coffee with beans representatives skiers in the town. The importance large courses running popular in Australia and New Zealand using a of Nozawa in the world of Japanese skiing is down the mountain top, similarly popular coffee machine to please their marked by the museum in town that exhibits the with sidecountry areas international guests. Right next door is a long- history of skiing in Japan within its walls. A stop in between each of the established soba restaurant of many generations by the museum is highly recommended for a quick courses for skiers to enjoy past that continues to enjoy thriving business. cultural and historical fix.

8270HAUS CRAFT JAM FACTORY CAFE / RESTAURANT / HOTEL Hotel & Jam Haus St. Anton

A Greatest Local Craft Food Experience in centre of town Nozawa Onsen. HP: st-anton.jp mail: [email protected]

jSnow issue 2 │ 65 YUDANAKA, SHIBU Nagano

YUDANAKA SHIBU ONSEN

GET UP CLOSE AND Many skiers can be found relaxing In at Jigokudani Monkey Park perched upon a PERSONAL WITH Yudanaka Shibu Onsen at night, having steep cliff enveloped by steam constantly rising chosen to spend their nights in the town from the hot springs. Contrary to its namesake, SNOW MONKEYS IN A whilst they travel to nearby Shiga Kogen by Jigokudani is a paradise for the monkeys here. car or bus. While there are a number of large This spot is popular all around the world for the HISTORICAL ONSEN TOWN hotels in Shiga Kogen itself, this onsen town opportunity to see the snow monkeys soaking in Words and photography: Kazuya Baba has the added perk of having a nightlife the hot springs to escape the bitter cold of winter. and streets to explore. Travellers looking The Monkey Park is approximately 10 minutes for relaxing dips in hot springs or a chance away from Yudanaka with many major hotels in the to explore a nostalgic town need look no area offering a shuttle bus service to and from the n the onsen paradise of Nagano Prefecture, further than Yudanaka Shibu Onsen. attraction. Make sure to do a quick check before Yudanaka Shibu Onsen, a 30 minute drive There is one place in this area that jetting off to see which hotels also offer shuttle bus from Shiga Kogen, stands above the rest for international travellers make sure to visit during services to surrounding ski resorts as well. Iits plentiful and mineral-rich thermal waters. their stay – Jigokudani Onsen. The main reason Yudanaka Shibu Onsen-kyo (Yudanaka Shibu for their visits is to see the Japanese monkeys, Onsen Village) is the name given to the 9 different affectionately known as “snow monkeys”, hot springs in the area. Shibu Onsen is the most relaxing in the hot springs here. Located at 850 famous of the hot springs opened approximately metres above sea level, Jigokudani is a harsh place 1,350 years ago. This town is a wonderland for with blisteringly cold weather and snow covering onsen lovers as the stone pavement streets are lined the area a third of the year. The name Jigokudani with inns that draw 100% of their thermal waters or “Valley of Hell” was bestowed by ancient locals directly from the hot spring source. after seeing the peculiar sight of snow monkeys

8404YUDA

We offer Free bus service to Snow Monkeys!

Biyunoyado www.yudanakaview.co.jp [email protected] We proudly house 100% natural hot springs at Biyunoyado. Our inn provides guests with easy access to Shiga Kogen, Okushiga Kogen, Ryuoo Ski Park and other surrounding ski areas. Guests staying at Biyunoyado have access to complimentary shuttle services operating daily to Snow Monkey Park and Yudanaka Station.

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Photography by Thomas Seear-Budd

・Approx.850 offices in All of Japan ・24hrs 7days open at Airport We have officies in All of Japan! Narita Airport(NRT) Haneda Airport(HND) Kansai Airport(KIX) 850 Always On Your Side ・Wide variety of vehicles *TOYOTA, HONDA, NISSAN, SUBARU, MAZDA, SUZUKI, DAIHATSU, etc ・Fleet of new cars, not older than 3 years ・One-way rentals available ・Many eco-friendly (hybrid) cars available ・Multilingual Navigation System (GPS) Available in English, Chinese and Korean. ・ETC card rental option

Search here for booking! www.nrgroup-global.com/en/ *English Chinese Korean Available

8407NIPP