TRAVEL EVOLVE BACK KAMALAPURA PALACE A JOURNEY BACK IN TIME A visit to is an intensely enriching experience that overwhelms with its antiquity and architecture Words by Maya Lalchandani Photographs Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace

The facade of Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace

hen they say flies by as the countryside engages Smiling faces surrounded us. The “Namaskara” at one in a boulder-laden landscape - the palace blossomed out into the vast the ‘Evolve Back’ famous Hampi rock formations. lobby with its curves and ceilings, - they mean it. while mashaals (torches) dotted the After all, it’s the A journey back in time walls. The arched hallways spoke of Wtraditional Indian greeting all over Hampi was the Hindu capital of the a glorious era gone by. Melodious . When I heard that the House dynasty that existed in flute music wafted out from the open of Ramapuram had ventured into the 14th century. Today, the ruins tell courtyard as the flautist smoothly hospitality with the Orange County the story of a forgotten kingdom of played into the sunset hues. The Resorts on their 100 year old property art, architecture, and religion. Packed whole place was bathed in a different - the Chikkana Halli Estate (300 with beautiful temples, market places, light, the shadows beckoning us to our acres), I visited both their properties water bodies, and ancient monuments, accommodation. in Coorg and Kabini, which were it attracts the discerning traveller. absolutely delightful. Last year, The Kamalapura Palace offers four the group ventured out again, this We drove into the palatial grounds of categories of accommodation - the time, changing their name but not the Kamalapura Palace not knowing Nivasa deluxe suite (950sq ft), the their brand, as Evolve Back - The what to expect as it was situated in Nilaya Terrace Suite (1372sq ft), Kamalapura Palace, Hampi. the small town of Hampi that is 4km The Zenana Palace Suite (1590sq ft), away from the Unesco Heritage Site. and the Jal Mahal, Private Pool Villa Starting all the way from Mumbai, Everything suddenly seemed straight (2600sq ft). Inside the Jal Mahal suite, I reached Bengaluru midmorning. out of a picture book - the stone I marvelled at the Queen-sized bed Cruising along for 217 miles on the walls tall and daunting but the insides shrouded in wispy splendor, marked NH-4, one realises that the softened as the warmth reached us with designated spacious areas for government has considered tourism in the guise of a lovely welcome of a reading, writing, resting, and dining. very well. The highway offers a very sweetened coconut drink and cheese The royal bath having a Jaccuzi interesting seven hour drive that just hors d’ oeuvres. looked ever so inviting as it opened

50 FWD LIFE SEPTEMBER 2017 TRAVEL EVOLVE BACK KAMALAPURA PALACE

Jal Mahal Royal Bedroom The washroom of Jal Mahal

Poolside view Savour Nawabi cuisine at the Bahmani restaurant out into courtyards. The private the ‘Tuluva’, named appropriately after How to reach Hampi: deck overlooked the Mantappa by the bygone era, for the ‘Vitthalapura is the gateway town to the private pool - a great setting for Walk’ that had been arranged. The Sri Hampi and can be reached by a romantic evening. The whole look Vijaya Vitthala Temple (15th century) car, bus and train. was obviously translated from the is an ancient monument that is known By air: Bellary (60km), Hubli Vijayanagar Empire and was luxurious for its exceptional Dravidian style of (170Km), Bengaluru (350Km) without a fault. architecture and is one of the most Popular tourist season: October famous structures in Hampi. The Stone to February As dusk fell, the hotel had arranged Chariot and the fascinating musical some cultural activities by the poolside pillars of the Ranga Mantappa are Climate: Generally hot and dry where the gazebo beautifully played the major attractions. Worship and the stage for numerous performances commerce both exist side by side as such as dance and theatre - a heady the remnants of the market places are Queen’s Bath turned out to be a stand- mix of the past in the present. Dinner sighted. alone structure that had provisions followed at the ‘Bahmani’ where the for the daasis (attendants) who looked whole aura of the palace steeped in Back at the hotel, and rested post on, periodically throwing petals and history promoted authentic Nawabi lunch, we were at the infinity pool aromatic luxury paraphernalia while cuisine by candlelight. The Bahmani where the water was warmer and the queens bathed. The Hindu-Islamic Sultanate that was the principal rival, helped soothe our tired feet. The influences augmented the allure of allowed an amalgamation of Persian aqueduct-fed Pushkarni (temple tank) the structure. The Mahanavami dibba and other influences. Satiated with the inspired the Olympic-sized pool. High (stage) was a tall structure that the array of delicacies - kababs, rotis, tea consisting of Indian eats at the king and his family would sit on when and the gravies - that were made to ‘Deep Lounge’ (lobby) encouraged us they would observe cultural festivals. suit our palate; we called it a night, to to continue on to another trail, and The hidden step wells – Pushkarini retire to our magical abode. back to Hampi. - were also magnificent. The Hazara Rama temple, exclusive to the Royal Temple trails The Raya Trail took us back 500 family, had on the walls inscribed the Early morning the next day, we were years into the times and lives of entire story of the Ramayana. The ready post a sumptuous breakfast at the Maharajas of Vijayanagara. The Lotus Mahal, known to be the queen’s

SEPTEMBER 2017 FWD LIFE 51 TRAVEL EVOLVE BACK KAMALAPURA PALACE

Katha Reading Lounge Vaidya Sala spa zenana, allowed entry only for the king, but was protected by Hijras (eunuchs) in all watchtowers. The last stop on the Raya trail was the Elephant Stables, which were marvels of architecture with separate quarters for the mahouts. It was awe-inspiring to see so much history all in one place.

Filled with actual visions and brimming Elephant stables with pride for the days gone by, wherein our ancestors had acquired a much better standard of living than known to be one of the exemplars Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace Hallikere Village, us, we gathered that it was a good of temple architecture in India. The Kamalapura Post, Hospet Taluk, time to bring in the happy hour at the temple elephant Lakshmi, and a - 583276 Palace Bar called the ‘Howdah’. It was hoard of langurs meet you inside the Karnataka, India well stocked and proved to be the Virupakshewara temple complex. perfect place to end the day with a The Lakshmi Narasimha temple has Tel-9(0) 8394 294 700 huge Elephant face docking the main the remains of the Ugra Narasimha, Email- [email protected] bar with tusks and mashaals lining the without Lakshmi sitting on his lap, but www.evolveback.com walls. The stage was well set. For still has the seven heads of Shesha family and children, there was the over the God. A massive Shiva linga ‘Anubhava experience Centre’ where stands maintained at the side of the the rest area, which felt like a slice of there are ancient and new games to be Ugra Narasimha. heaven. played. Catching some breath All rested, I headed for the Katha The history route continued the next Back after the trail, I was ready for (Reading lounge) where I immersed day as we pursued the Virupaksha an evening of spa therapy at the myself in some more history. I dug Trail that began with a leisurely walk ‘Vaidya Sala’ where the hotel’s spa my head into the coffee table books, up the Hemakunta Hill. The stretch offered therapies that were befitting taking in the sinful pleasure of having included the Monolithic Bull – Nandi - the centuries old ayurvedic traditions. a cappuccino brewed from Sidhapur, a and the Virupaksha Bazaar where gold I chose the Abhayanga as natural signature house brand of the Orange and diamonds were believed to be sold and herbal remedies combat and County Group. It was a great way to in kilogrammes for the cheapest rates. counteract imbalances in the body. end a day full of nostalgia on a trip of Designed traditionally with a central this stature. Next on the list was the Achutarya courtyard, the royal influences could Temple. The , the be seen in the exquisite woodworks. Experiencing Hampi through the lifeline of Hampi was the succeeding I encountered the near perfect palatial Kamalapura Palace proved to stop. It ended with the old Virupaksha experience, provided by deft, trained be clearly the way to live the exquisite temple at the base of the hill - hands as I was left recuperating in past through this engaging present.

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