Exterior Washington Irving:folleto w. irving 04/01/2011 12:40 Página 1

Route of Washington Irving TRADITIONS

This Route is one of the vital FOOD links of al-Andalus: through he food in this part of Málaga, and , is made from local produce it joins two outstanding cities, T and the results are very two essential cities in the appetizing. Alcalá de Hispano-Muslim civilization. Guadaira is famed for the simplest form of food This itinerary reviews the –bread–, and so is and many other places near followed in 1829 by this romantic American Granada. Olive oil is widely produced in the countryside writer who was fascinated by the exotic and of Seville, Carmona, and La Roda. Then from exuberant Moorish remains in Andalusia. This Antequera, center of production with the hojiblanca variety of olive, extending as far as Loja and the valley. Huétor- was a historical road that in the Middle Ages Tájar is known for the excellence of the asparagus served as an important trade route between the produced there and on the whole, the vegetables of this

Nasrid kingdom of Granada and Christian region are very good and widely used in

territory. All this area may be considered border dishes, such as porra, gazpacho, salads, of Council the of Route Cultural Major etc. All the different types of sausage

country, covering the lowland plains of the products made in the different Guadalquivir valley and the fertile plains places along the way are also very Irving

surrounded by mountains near Granada (vega). tasty, as it is meat, game and fish.

Mention must be made of the sweets,

The way includes large towns and villages from those made by cloistered nuns in Washington perched on hills, below and , many of the villages, to the widely known places with an extraordinary heritage in the midst mantecados, polvorones (mostly eaten at Christmas time) and of Route of widely differing attractive landscapes through roscos, alfajores and many other delightful confections. the , the north of the province HANDICRAFTS of Málaga through Antequera and Granada. The The Route of Washington customs and traditions still existing in these Irving follows the historical wASHINgTON IRvINg here are countless workshops between Seville and

road between Seville and w

Granada where some of the most representative w villages, where agriculture is the principal Granada, from the fertile Granada to Seville From plains of the Guadalquivir he leading player in this route Andalusian handicrafts are made. For example, w .

occupation, provides an extra inducement for a valley, to the sierras and rich T r was an American diplomatist and there is a wide range in the pottery line in both provincial u valleys north of Málaga and t fascinating journey. The legendary feature of this west of the province of writer (1783-1859) who is the capitals, as well as in other towns and villages on the a s

Granada. Nowadays, this is T l covered in the main by the A- prototype of the romantic traveller. way. Wrought iron is also a significant e

route is further emphasized in this area by the g

92 dual-carriageway, Charmed by Europe, he was totally chapter under this heading and so are a

fact that in the 19th c. it was famous for branching off at times on the d N-IV and other local , bewitched by «exotic» Andalusia. In carpentry and leatherwork, as applied to andalusí legado El o

contraband and highwaymen, such as the well- such as the 339 and 335. An 1829 he travelled from Seville to harness makers and saddlers, and a

alternative means of n Altitudes vary between Seville at only 15 the road to Granada. On either side, of Routes The d transportation is the railway, Granada where he stayed for a time. His bookbinders. Work with known Siete Niños de (seven children from m. asl, to plains between 200 and 400 however, there are places at a higher a

very nearly parallel with the l

m. asl. Estepa, around 700 m. asl lies at mark, Archidona for example, at about writing at this period was full of Hispano- vegetable fibers and u El Tempranillo highway. Écija) and José María . the beginning of higher land; Antequera 1,000 m., Montefrío with 833 m. and s i

at 577 m. marks the average altitude of with 888 m. asl. Moorish references, such as his The tales that other specialities, such . e

contributed so much to the romantic image of Andalusia. as jewellery and the s making of guitars complete this view of ITINERARY AND DISTANCES ARCHITECTURE artisan crafts in the area. Information Points he route proceeds between Seville and Granada, MUSLIM, BAROQUE, POPULAR Pavilion of al-Andalus and Science separated by about 250 km. (155 miles), largely on FEASTS SEVILLA MORALEDA DE the A-92 dual-carriageway. From Seville it reaches he considerable architectural heritage in towns and Alcalá, Antequera and Loja, like that of Oficinas de Turismo de la Junta Oficina Municipal de Turismo ZAFAYONA T de Andalucía Carrera, 82. Antiguo Hospital Ayuntamiento first of all Alcalá de Guadaira, then Carmona, Marchena, villages along the route provides, in the first place, Archidona, baths such as those in Alhama de Granada. he cycle of festivities in places along the route of - Avda. Constitución, 21B Tel. 954 815 732 Ctra. del Canal, 6 Écija and returns to the A-92 once again. After passing an extraordinary selection of Hispano-Muslim There are countless Mudéjar and Baroque buildings in the Washington Irving follows the usual pattern in Tel. 954 787 578 Tel. 958 443 002 T - Aeropuerto de Sevilla. ESTEPA he Pavilion of al-Andalus and Science in the Osuna, Estepa, La Roda de Andalucía, Fuente de Piedra, buildings. This later becomes Mudéjar, Baroque and area, churches with bell towers that are reminders of Andalusia. It includes Easter, fairs and celebrations Autopista de San Pablo s/n Oficina Municipal de Turismo ALHAMA DE GRANADA T Tel. 954 449 128 Ayuntamiento Oficina Municipal de Turismo Macroscope building of the Science Park of Humilladero and Mollina, the road gets to the plains of popular, forming the basis for the large number of , and churches with lace-like plaster decorative in honour of patron saints. The season begins in spring, - Estación de Santa Justa. Paseo Montes Jovellar s/n Plaza del Carmen, 1 y 2 Granada offers the visitor a view of the Arabic Antequera. Then the way crosses Archidona, Loja and Historical-Artistic monuments in the area. Together with motifs recalling Muslim crafts, as well as palaces and followed by a very full agenda in summer; Corpus Christi Avda. Kansas City s/n Tel. 958 360 686 T Tel. 954 782 002 Tel. 955 914 704 Tel. 955 912 717 (Ayto.) scientific legacy and the different contributions made by Huétor-Tájar. From , it leaves the the outstanding examples of Muslim art in Seville public buildings. The outcome of all this is a form of is very popular and so are MONTEFRÍO Andalusian civilization. Its exhibits offer an insight into main road in order to visit Alhama de Granada to the –Giralda and Alcázar–- and in Granada –city of the popular architecture that shares some common elements of the different pilgrimages. Oficinas Municipales de Oficina de Turismo Información Turística LA RODA DE Plaza de España, 1 the period of al-Andalus, the Arabic-Muslim scientific south. North of the A-92, the road takes us to Montefrío Alhambra–, towns and villages along the way also the Muslim, Mudéjar and Baroque styles. This Flamenco is an - Plaza de San Francisco s/n ANDALUCÍA Tel. 958 336 004 Logia del Ayuntamiento Ayuntamiento legacy and its contributions to the world of science, and and Íllora, returning by and Chauchina provide equally notable fresh style is visible in town buildings, in unmistakable feature of Tel. 902 194 897 Real, 25 ÍLLORA its subsequent development. The museum resources used to the main route, ending in Santa Fe and Granada. buildings –castles and country properties and smaller popular culture - Arjona, 28. Naves del Barranco Tel. 954 016 002 Museo Municipal Tel. 954 221 714 Plaza de San Rogelio s/n in the different permanent and temporary exhibition fortresses such as those of buildings. throughout this area, to - Costurero de la Reina FUENTE DE PIEDRA Tel. 958 433 162 spaces are spread over two floors that house the different which many festivals and Paseo de las Delicias, 9 Oficina Municipal de Turismo Tel. 954 234 465 Castillo, 1 FUENTE VAQUEROS subject areas, lecture rooms, fairs stand witness. Tel. 952 735 453 Ayuntamiento a bookshop and a multi- Oficinas de Información Plaza Doctor Pareja, 1 lANDSCAPE Turística del Patronato Provincial HUMILLADERO Tel. 958 516 535 purpose hall. It covers - Plaza del Triunfo, 1 Ayuntamiento Tel. 954 210 005 Avda. del Emigrante, 1 CHAUCHINA almost 4,500 square metres Left, a romantic view of Carmona. - Casa de la Cultura Tel. 952 737 023 CIE. Centro de Iniciativas and aims to promote cultural he road travels along gently rolling plains of the In the background, the tower of General Prim, 2 Empresariales San Pedro inspired by the Giralda Tel. 955 611 488 MOLLINA Ronda Exterior 3º, 1ª exchanges between province of Seville until Estepa is reached and we tower, looking like a , and Ayuntamiento Tel. 958 455 098 the thick walls of the Alcázar of and the Arab World by come to rougher outlines. On the way every now ALCALÁ DE GUADAÍRA La Villa, 3 Below, typical Moorish baths, al- the Seville Gateway, originally HORSEMANSHIP SANTA FE T Oficina Municipal de Turismo Tel. 952 737 023 hamman in Arabic, origin of the Roman, reformed by the Oficina Comarcal de Turismo implementing the latest and then we come upon lagoons, among which, that of Juez Pérez Díaz s/n name Alhama. They consist of a Almohads. Isabel la Católica, 7 trends in museology and an Fuente de Piedra is particularly interesting. Around courtyard, hall, cold room, warm Tel. 955 621 924/964 (Museo) ANTEQUERA Arco de Sevilla up-to-date, diverse Antequera there are some extraordinary limestone room with pool and the hot room, n old saying maintains that the reason why horses Oficina Municipal de Turismo Tel. 958 513 110 where the steam and hot water is Encarnación, 7 methodology. formations known as El Torcal de Antequera. The hills of produced by a boiler. in the countryside of Seville are so fleet of foot is Oficina de Turismo Tel. 952 702 505 GRANADA Veracruz, 2. Casa del Aire Oficina de Turismo de la Junta de the sierra become higher and wilder at the side of the because the mares are made pregnant by the Tel. 955 841 417 Andalucía A ARCHIDONA cultivated valley leading to Granada. wind; this is an example of equine lore surrounding the Oficina Municipal de Turismo Plaza Nueva. Santa Ana, 4 CARMONA Plaza Ochavada, 2 Tel. 958 575 202 tremendous popularity of the local breed along the route. Oficina Municipal de Turismo Tel. 952 716 479 View of the Macroscope. The Pavilion of al-Andalus and Science is inside. An image of these swift animals Alcázar de la Puerta de Alhambra y Sevilla s/n Avda. del Generalife s/n Science Park. Granada. is associated, furthermore, with Tel. 954 190 955 LOJA Tel. 958 544 002/003 The sober elegance travellers and with the Oficina Municipal de Turismo of popular MARCHENA Comedias s/n Oficina de Información Turística architecture to be legendary bandits that Oficina de Municipal de Turismo Tel. 958 323 949 del Patronato Provincial found between Centro de Interpretación Plaza Mariana Pineda, 10 Seville and Granada frequently featured as part of Puerta de Morón Histórico Tel. 958 247 128 is sometimes Calle San Francisco nº 43 the landscape. There are studs Plaza de la Constitución s/n expressed in a Museo Lorenzo Coullaut Valera Centro Municipal de Recepción Tel. 958 321 520 surprising ability to along the way in Écija, Tel. 955 321 010 Ext. 175 Turística compose a Marchena, Osuna, Antequera, Virgen Blanca, 9 harmonious mixture ÉCIJA HUÉTOR-TÁJAR Tel. 958 535 761 of textures and Loja and even nearer Granada Oficina Municipal de Turismo Centro de Información Juvenil colours. devoted to thoroughbred Spanish Elvira nº 1ª Plaza Gregorio Peláez s/n Oficina de Información Turística Edificio Palacio de Benamejí Tel. 958 334 261 Municipal horses and sometimes, also. It Tel. 955 902 933 Plaza del Carmen s/n is therefore, a route where riding Tel. 902 405 045 part of the way is a real possibility. El legado andalusí Pabellón de al-Andalus y la Ciencia - Parque de las Ciencias Avda. de la Ciencia s/n. 18006 Granada (Spain) Tel.: +34 958 225 995 Fax: +34 958 228 644 e-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.rutaslegadoandalusi.es - www.legadoandalusi.es Washington Irving interior inglés:FOLLETOW.IRV 04/01/2011 13:07 Página 1

al-Andalus, Qarmuna even turned into the main town of an historical sites. There is a view of the cultivated plains from the SEVILLA independent principality and provided itself with staunch walls. ESTEPA walls. During Muslim times, it belonged to the cora (district) of HUÉTOR-TÁJAR FUENTE VAQUEROS The Alcázar de Arriba belongs to this period and so do the Rayya and then in 1314 it passed on to the cora of Ilbira under History, scenery, art and atmosphere come together in one of the reinforcements to the Gateway of Seville and layout of the old Approaching the eastern border of the the Nasrid kingdom of Granada. It was a permanent temptation This was an old farming property called I had my first dream of remoteness in most captivating cities, where light, air and colour create a centre of town. In the neighbourhood of San Fernando square, province of Seville, the route of for the kings of Castile and at last surrendered during the Quariyat Tayara, under a tall handsome tower this village, wrote Federico García gamut of sensations on the banks of the Guadalquivir, ‘big river’ the church of Santa María is worth pointing out, built over the Washington Irving arrives in Estepa, by Prince Ferdinand’s forces in 1410. The inhabitants retreated that still stands. It was formed by the joining Lorca of the place where he was in Arabic. The legend says that Seville was founded by Hercules main , it still has the courtyard of ablutions and minaret. perched on the slopes of a hill that to Archidona nearby, or to Granada, where they formed the of two settlements at the end of the 15th c., born in 1898. His family home is over 2,500 years ago; it flourished in the times of Tartessos and Also in this area are the town’s museum in a lovely Baroque foreshadows the sierras to come. It district of La Antequeruela. The walls at one time appeared the morisco population having stayed behind one of the most visited spots in the Rome and achieved the rank of what might be termed palace beside the church, and other handsome mansions, was Astapa to the Iberians who sturdy and strong; among the numerous churches, the ones that after the reconquest. The irrigation system world. The village, that grew up metropolis in the course of the nearly 550 years of Muslim churches and convents. The church of Santiago is interesting bravely resisted the Romans. In stand out are the Royal Collegiate church of Santa María la put down by the Moors are in many ways around a fountain, used to be part history. The extensive old town centre –surrounded by walls of and there are several Mudéjar churches such as that of San Arabic it was called Istabba, acquiring Mayor that has a magnificent Renaissance façade and the intact, however, now the white mulberries of Soto de Roma, a royal game which there are still extant sections, such as that of La Felipe and the convent of Santa Clara, that has a revolving some relevance owing to its strategic church of San Sebastián standing in a large square alongside and the silk of those times have given way to preserve that the Cortes of Cádiz Macarena– was formed in the 12th and 13th centuries, when ‘dumb waiter’ that mysteriously dispatches delicious sweetmeats. location on a crossroads. It was the 18th c. Arch of El Nazareno and a 1545 fountain. The asparagus that can be eaten locally in an presented to the first Duke of Wellington in perpetuity in Ishbiliya became the peninsular capital of the Almohad caliphs, reconquered by the Castilians in 1249 Municipal Museum, housed in the 18th c. palace of Nájera, omelette, soup or sauce, after a look at the recognition of his service during the War of Independence. vying with Marrakech in grand buildings. Signs of that past are MARCHENA and played an important part in the contains a splendid collection of Baroque painting and pieces plantations by the Genil river. visible in countless corners and buildings: the Santa Cruz war of Granada. There is a splendid such as the Ephebe, a Roman bronze from the 1st c. A strange district, the Jewry, centre, Triana and the Alameda quarter, as Lying to the south west of view of the countryside from the place called El Torcal stands in the hills 13 km (8 miles) from well as the neighbourhood of the Cathedral –where the mosque’s Carmona, Marchena is an on top of the hill; the church of Santa María and the Antequera; it consists of a lunatic landscape of bizarre MORALEDA DE ZAFAYONA CHAUCHINA courtyard is now the Cathedral’s courtyard and the Giralda essentially farming community with convent of Santa Clara are worth mentioning. Further down, geological formations shaped by water and wind. tower, the Alcázar, a set of palaces and gardens built between a most remarkable artistic heritage. there are the Museum, the Baroque tower of La Victoria and After about 8 km (5 miles) on the A- The origin of this name is unknown. the 10th to 15th centuries; the Atarazanas –the old shipyards–, It was known as Colonia Martia by some Baroque churches, such as El Carmen and Los 92 dual-carriageway, we reach this It might come from the Roman the towers of Silver and of Gold by the river and the old mosque the Romans and Marssna’anh in Remedios. The aroma of spices used for making polvorones and tiny village to have a short rest and to Sancius, from willow. It was probably where El Salvador church now stands are all outstanding among Arabic. After the reconquest by the mantecados (eaten nearly exclusively at Christmas) pervades visit Cerro de la Mora, an old Ibero- one of the many farmsteads that were the places in Seville that are worthy of note. Christians, it was awarded to the the atmosphere; there is a small monographic museum on Roman settlement, with a most dotted about Baetica, with excellent Duke of Arcos who provided it these sweetmeats. interesting Visigoth necropolis nearby. wheat, olive oil and wine. In the with many imposing buildings. La The road is good, with the river Genil kingdom of Granada, it became one of Mota castle is in the higher part of in sight, as well as Cerro del Pino with the Agicampe the many fortresses. The atmosphere the town, it was the of the Almohad precincts of the LA RODA DE ANDALUCÍA on top. is traditional, with avenues along the side of the river. Two of 12th and 13th centuries with the Gates of Seville and of Morón. the typical dishes here are frogs’ legs and fried cod. Santa María, Plaza Ducal, the church of San Juan Bautista, that houses nine paintings by Zurbarán, the municipal Found in the midst of an ocean of olive archaeological collection and a permanent exhibition of the trees on the road from Seville to the ALHAMA DE GRANADA sculptures of Coullaut-Valera are some of the things that can be province of Málaga. It was founded in SANTA FE seen on a visit. 1546 in an area that had not been Hanging from an enormous rock inhabited for centuries owing to its or peak like an eagle’s nest, This is the last town on the A-92 dual ÉCIJA location in no-man’s land on the Moorish- wrote Théophile Gautier of carriageway before reaching Granada. Castilian border. The church of Nuestra Alhama, with houses Founded by Ferdinand and Isabella in The route continues over rolling cultivated fields, only some Señora de los Llanos is worth noting and perched over a very 1491 as the barracks during the siege patches of scrub and olive groves, till we get to Écija in a dip in so are the hermitages. It is best impressive ravine. It is of the Nasrid capital, it has a , the landscape, bathed by the Genil river, with cool waters from known for the delicious virgin olive famous for the spa, al- walls and parade-ground, all on a grid- Sierra Nevada. This town has remote origins and it was one of oil it produces. ARCHIDONA hamman, whence the name, like layout. The walls have the three main towns of Roman Baetica. It was Astigi to the but its origins are lost in disappeared, but the four doors are Romans and there are a few remains from those times, on view Our route went around El Peñón de los Enamorados (lovers’ rock) with a time. From the Muslim period, there is the Torresolana still standing –Granada, Loja, Seville in the church of Santa María and of El Cabildo, together with FUENTE DE PIEDRA precipice on one side over our heads. That morning we went through watchtower and the Pósito, an old 13th c. synagogue. The and Jaén. The old centre of town is ALCALÁ DE GUADAÍRA vestiges of medieval art and other later ones. At the time of al- Archidona, standing on the side of a hill where the ruins of a Moorish features of al-Andalus are noticeable particularly in what is called considered a Historical-Artistic Site, where we can see the Andalus, Écija flourished and it even became the centre of one The name –meaning ‘stone fountain’– comes from the fountain fortress are visible by a hill with three peaks. the Moorish district. The fall of Alhama to the Castilians had Antigua Casa Real (old royal house), the parish church, Town This is the first stage on the journey. of the countless Taifa principalities for a very brief moment. The of medicinal water in the middle of the village. It was already This is Washington Irving’s description of the town founded by enormous psychological effects in Granada. Queen Isabella Hall and granary. This can be the base for organizing Here Irving noticed packs of mules and Almohads built walls and towers in the 12th c. and it achieved known and appreciated in ancient times. the Turdetani. The Roman name was Arcis Domina meaning Lady ordered three churches built over as many mosques; one of them excursions around the plains in this lovely countryside of the donkeys loaded with large baskets of loaves its present general outlines at that time. There is a compact This is a quiet small village near of the Heights, Arabized as Arsuduna. Abd ar-Rahman I arrived is the church of La Encarnación, a gothic building from the end depression of Granada. The most popular feasts are on 12th and rolls referring to the well-known historical centre and numerous 18th c. buildings, Laguna Salada, the largest lagoon in here before proclaiming the independent Emirate of al-Andalus of the 15th and beginning of the 16th centuries. Alhama’s famous October –La Hispanidad– and Merendica on 25th November. baking tradition in Alcalá, still making it an outstanding representative of Andalusia, with nearly 1,400 hectares. in Cordova and under the Caliphate, it became the capital town baths with medicinal waters, known in Roman times, are entered A famous sweet is made here, it is the pionono, of morisco origin. applicable nowadays. The Arabic Andalusian Baroque, with a skyline of many Migrating birds congregate of the cora of Rayya, a name that still exists in a farming through a picturesque made by the river. The arcade over name al-Qalat, the fortress, reveals its graceful bell towers. Apart from being known here, particularly property nearby. The defences started being erected in the 9thc. the pool was built around the year 1100 with caliphal arches and importance at the time. The as «the town of towers», it is also called «the flamingoes in large and were rebuilt in the 13th c. on the side of Sierra de Gracia, vaults with star-shaped openings for lighting. There are lovely GRANADA Almohads built a gigantic frying pan of Andalusia» for the very high numbers, this being one from where beautiful sunsets may be seen. The hermitage of gardens on both sides of the river, making the whole scene very on a hill overlooking the village with temperature that is reached in summer. Of of the few places where Nuestra Señora de Gracia stands over the only extant mosque in attractive. The spa stands at about 850 m. asl. some splendid buildings, as well as a note in this town is the main square –Plaza they nest. the province of Málaga. The town extends from the medieval Granada is the Damascus of pretty Mudejar church. Below, the Mayor–, called El Salón, showing town –Villa Alta– on streets that run from the hills to the plains, al-Andalus, pasture of the eyes, Guadaira river, Wad-Shira –river of characteristic houses with galleries. While with countless squares, such as MONTEFRÍO uplift for our souls. It has an abundance–flows, whose current moved the old flour mills that strolling about the town, we can see the Plaza Ochavada (eight-sided) impregnable with high can still be seen. From Alcalá to Carmona, the way passes churches of Santa María, Santa Cruz, HUMILLADERO with arcades, dating from the The road turns to the walls and splendid buildings. It is Gandul, an enchanting village with an Almohad tower beside a Santiago and San Gil, the 18th c. Excursions are north and starts notable for the peculiarity of its Baroque palace, among Roman ruins and medieval remains. palaces of Peñaflor and This small village was founded organized from here to climbing. We suddenly river that flows through the Benamejí and other delightful as a result of all the comings surrounding countryside at La come upon the place houses, baths, market places, buildings, among which we and goings in the Middle Ages Hoz de Marín and to the chosen to set up his court outside and inside mills and can get glimpses of artisans’ concerned with the conquest of Lagoons of Archidona, wetlands by the Nasrid king gardens, said al-Saqundi in the ARAHAL workshops. Antequera by the Christians in declared a natural reserve. Ismail III, crowned by 13th c. When al-Andalus was 1410. It is a quiet agricultural the Abencerrajes. The wounded to death after the We drive ahead on A-92 dual village, set in attractive village stands under a Almohad’s defeat at Navas de carriageway, going across the core OSUNA countryside, mostly among LOJA large rock that seems to be on the point of flattening the place to Tolosa, the Nasrid dynasty, founded by Ibn al-Ahmar, upheld of the Sevillian fertile countryside olive trees, some pine woods, Sierra de Humilladero and La oblivion. It was reconquered by the Christian Monarchs in 1486 the kingdom of Granada until the until we reach Arahal, a land of Standing on the slope of a low rise, this town has one of the Ratosa lagoon to the north, also a refuge for migrating birds, it My city has a smiling face, the aspect of a charmer and of beautiful and they ordered the original church built over a mosque, final downfall. This is the period of which there is more uncertain origin that seems to most remarkable architectural and artistic heritages in the has been declared a natural reserve. women who cure the ills of the heart. These are the words written by between the walls of the fortress of al-Andalus, a good example of evidence than of any other in this magnificent city, which was to deepen its roots in Arab times. A country. It was known as Urso to the Iberians and Romans and the polygraph Ibn al-Khatib, born in Loja in 1313. It is easy to Gothic-Renaissance architecture and a National Monument become the inspiration of romantic writers. It is the final stage great variety of tourist attractions it was Osona in Arabic until it became Osuna when it was see why it was considered «door and key to the kingdom of Granada» where Diego de Siloé was later to built the town’s church. Proof of the Route of Washington Irving, the destination of all the can be enjoyed in the town, from its reconquered by the Castilians. It became the main town of a MOLLINA by Isabella and Ferdinand. It nestles between two sierras on the of habitation throughout the ages is Peña de los Gitanos, one of Routes of al-Andalus, capital of the last Muslim kingdom in the assorted range of cooking powerful dukedom. There are examples of its past in the higher western side of the plains, where the Genil river forms the the largest archaeological sites in the province. On a series of Iberian Peninsula. In the palaces of the Alhambra, the heritage specialities to the deepest traditions. part of town: the quarries and the Roman necropolis, the We come to the narrow pass of Los Infiernos (hell). Remains of the alcazaba terraces between cultivated fields, there is the outline of a of Granada has the recollection of a unique civilization which is Arahal displays a rich architectural University building in front of another outstanding municipal district of stand with Christian bell towers on both sides. Legend settlement lived in from Paleolithic times up to the Middle Ages. one of humanity’s treasures. heritage, with many monuments Renaissance building, the Collegiate church –a really imposing Mollina, where there maintains that none less than Tubal, grandson of Noah, was the There are Argaric remains, dolmens, Roman, Visigoth and worth visiting, among them the creation overlooking the town. Inside, there is a collection of are various founder. It was a trading post under the Phoenicians, known at Muslim sepulchres and a historical treasure that has been sacked Church-Hospital of Santo Cristo de jewels, the Ducal Pantheon and a museum with splendid oil archaeological sites that time as Tricolia and it flourished under the Muslims. The repeatedly. While here, if you have the chance, taste the game, la Misericordia and the Church of paintings by José de Ribera. Below stands the Baroque dating from Neolithic occupation of Loja «flower among thorns» by Ferdinand of anything with partridge or rabbit, as well as sesos al mojeteo. Santa María Magdalena. convent of La Encarnación, containing an assortment of times up to the end of Aragon presaged the end of the Nasrid kingdom. religious art and tiles. There is also the Archaeological Museum the Middle Ages. Most of its outstanding architecture was put up between the ÍLLORA housed in Torre del Agua. Continuing downwards, the Plaza However, Mollina did 16th and 18th centuries, including the churches of La CARMONA Mayor opens out and long streets lead out, such as Sevilla and not really mature into Encarnación, San Gabriel and Santa Catalina. It is a pleasure to After crossing fields that, according to Ibn al-Khatib, were a San Pedro, full of churches, convents and mansions. a grown-up town stroll through this town of many fountains. mine of excellent wheat, house and place of cattle, the traveller goes Perched on the highest point of Los until the 16th c. when upon the so-called ojo derecho de Granada (Granada’s Alcores, an area of hills extending it became well-known for its wine and olive oil. Nearby in darling), on the slopes of Sierra de Parapanda. It eastwards from Seville, we come upon Sierra of La Camorra, there are several caves with prehistoric was mentioned by Pliny and it was the Suebi, Carmona, whose name apparently has paintings, such as that of Los Porqueros. Not far, in Santillán Visigoths and Muslims –particularly the Punic origins –Kar-Hammon, city of the park there are remains of a Roman fort and temple. Nasrids– who were responsible for the great god Hammon. In Roman times it fortress around which the village grew. The became one of the leading towns in this Christian addition is another elegant part of the countryside, deduced from ANTEQUERA church by Diego de Siloé, La the monumental size of the Gateways of Encarnación –built between 1542 Córdoba and of Seville, as well as from The three monumental dolmens of Menga, Viera and El and 1573. The first governor was the remarkable Necropolis in what used Romeral, from between 2,000 and 2,500 BC, are colossal Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba, the to be the outskirts, but is now in the funerary reminders from Neolithic times, indicating this town’s Gran Capitán, the ruins of his town, which also shows that it must remote origin. Standing at the confluence of several roads, with mansion are visible, with the coat of have been quite important. In times of the passage of time it has become one of the greater Andalusian arms on the façade.