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Western

Includes  Why Go? Paro Dzongkhag...... 77 Whether you arrive by air at the dramatic, mountain-bound Paro...... 77 Paro valley or by road at steamy Phuentsholing, it soon be- Upper Paro Valley...... 89 comes clear that you have arrived at a special destination. Haa Dzongkhag...... 96 Prayer flags flutter from nearly every rooftop, men and women dress in traditional garb, chortens and deco- Haa...... 97 rate river and road junctions, and fortress-like monasteries Punakha Dzongkhag.... 100 command mountain tops. The west is the region of Bhutan that most tourists see and Dzongkhag...... 108 for good reason. It’s the heartland of the Drukpa people and Phobjikha Valley...... 111 is home to the major airport, the capital, the most popular Chhukha Dzongkhag.... 115 festivals and the most spectacular dzongs (fort-monasteries) in the kingdom. Throw in the trekking, the scope to get off the Phuentsholing...... 117 beaten track and the minimal driving times, and the appeal is obvious. Whether it’s the beginning of your trip or the only part of Bhutan that you will explore, the west is a spectacular introduction to this magical country. Best Places to Eat ¨¨Tou Zaiga Restaurant When to Go (p88) ¨¨September to November are the ideal months to visit Western Bhutan. You’ll get great weather, clear mountain ¨¨Bukhari Restaurant views from Dochu La, and dramatic festivals at Thimphu (p88) and Wangdue Phodrang. ¨¨Sonam Trophel Restaurant ¨¨Black-necked cranes arrive in the Phobjikha valley in (p88) late October and early November. March and April are ¨¨Brioche Cafe (p88) also popular, with the Paro tsechu a major draw, as lovely spring rhododendron blooms decorate the high passes. Best Places to Sleep ¨¨Gangtey Palace (p85) ¨¨Lechuna Heritage Lodge (p98) ¨¨Dewachen Hotel (p114) ¨¨Uma Punakha (p107) 77 Western Bhutan ParoSight Dzongks hag

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is a small festival ground , Chhogyel Sherab (governor) of Paro Paro of (governor) Nyamai Zam Nyamai (painted or embroidered (secular ruler of Bhutan), (courtyard) on the 3rd sto (central tower) inside the do tower) (central , which functions as the monks’ dedicated to Chuchizhey, an to Chuchizhey, dedicated (prayer hall) opposite has lovely (prayer where masked dancers perform where masked is five storeys is five tall and was built in the kunrey spans the . This is a re spans the Paro Outside the dzong, to the northeastthe of The is built on a steep dzong hillside, Below the dzong, wooden a traditional A stairway leads down to the monastic exterior murals depicting the life of Tibet’s exterior depicting murals Tibet’s the life of the of poet-saint The day first Milarepa. tsechu is held in this courtyard, spring Paro burstingto Thepoint. fills which views from the far windows are superb. is a stone-paved entrance, construction which of the original bridge, dukhang (Map p82) rey. The utse rey. chey first time of the the east utse of the in 1649. To lhakhang a uniquely Bhuta spiral’, of the ‘mystic ral on the mandala. The largenese variation tion of a monasterytion of Rinpoche. by Guru built Thefort to occasions numerous on used was by Ti valleyinvasions from defend the Paro Claude John bet. The officer British political oldWhite reported were in 1905 there that stones stored great for throwing catapults The verandah. raftersthe in dzong’s the of dzong survived the 1897 earthquakebut was in 1907. by fire severely damaged courtyardand the front of the administra sectiontive is 6m higher than the courtyard of the monastic portion. The road to the theto down branches Museum National northeastern which leads entrance, dzong’s into the dochey the main dances of the tsechu. A thondrolthe tsechu. of dances main the – huge religious picture) of Guru Rinpoche, more sq metres,18 than shortlyunfurled is after of the tsechu – you day on the final dawn upon which it is hung. rail can see the huge 18ththe in commissioned was It century by the eighth desi also known as druk desi Wangchuck. called bridge covered classroom, is on the southern side (to the(to side southern the on is classroom, left). Look for the mu under the vestibule p82) 11-headed manifestation of Chenresig. manifestation 11-headed The richly carved black painted in gold, wood, whitewashedand ochres, and the towering of establishedwalls reinforce the sense and wealth. power which houses about 200 monks. quarter, The construction the founda on dzong of the - - - - - DZONG 8am-6pm, until 8am-6pm, h

Map p82;

Paro Dzong ranks as a high Dzong ranks Paro Sights

Dzong Paro The dzong’s correct name, Rinchen Pung The dzong’s Several treks begin in or near Paro. The treks begin in or near Paro. Several The fertile and net clement climate land, 08 / POP4500 / ELEV 2280M Paro PARO DZONGKHAG PARO point of Bhutanese architecture. The massive aretown the over tower that walls buttressed was formerly It visible throughout the valley. Assemblythe meeting hall for the National most dzongs, houses both the like and now, monastic body and district of government Dzong (usually shortened to Rinpung Dzong), 1644 In of Jewels’. on a Heap means ‘Fortress Namgyal ordered theZhabdrung Ngawang fices, including the local courts. Most of the including the local courts.fices, Most worth a chapels are closed to tourists but it’s visit for its stunning architecture and views. o (Rinpung Dzong; 1 % lies on the The charming town of Paro Chhu, just a short (or Pa) banks of the Paro distancenorthwest Paro imposing the of Dzong.The street,main 1985,in built only is lined with colourfully painted wooden though theseshop fronts and restaurants, town grows and as the appear under threat multistorey concrete buildings continue to remains one of the now Paro For propagate. best Bhutanese towns to explore on foot and the end of stroll at is worth an hour or two’s of sightseeing.a day ed the people of Paro with a solid economic of Paro ed the people most of the 19th For foundation. century, was and of government the seat held Paro culturalcommercial, the centrepolitical and of the country. a 4200meast climbs over Trek Druk Path pass before descending to Thimphu. The Jhomolhari, Laya–Gasa and Snowman treks from Drukgyelall lead west Dzong on to and the spectacularJhomolhari base camp Laya. alpine regions of Gasa and ment the green terraced fields, and forested fields, terraced ment the green a beautiful,either side to create hills rise on peacefulorganic and whole. provid Tibetfrom routes trade of have work The Paro valley thedoubt one of is without The Paro apple trees and Bhutan. Willow in loveliest white of the roads, line many orchards comple and temples washed farmhouses 4.30pm Nov-Feb) 4.30pm