SK Men's Long Study USA Competitors points of measure study For comparison and refinement (if needed) of measurements, construction and packaging of SK Men's to compete with these USA brands at SK new higher price point Samples from Orvis.com (Orvis + Gitman Bros labels) and Bills Khakis. Long sleeved, collared, buttoned front shirts with chest . 7/20/2012

Brand Orvis Orvis Gitman Bros (Orvis) Bills Khakis Stormy Kromer Maker New England Shirt New England Shirt Gitman Brothers Co. ? Unknown whether ?JJFPac qFactoryuart factory Co. Fall River, MA Co. Fall River, MA Ashland, PA. Bills or Other or Wausau contr. Country of mfr USA USA USA USA USA Style "NE Long Sleeve Shirt"Fall River Flannel "Gitman Bros SS "Davidson Plaid "SK Twill Shirt" Second w Btn Down " Shirt" Check Shirt" Shirt, LS" #5303 Color Navy (plaid) Navy (plaid) Lime (Check) Navy (Plaid) Olive Solid Regular retail $129.00 $149.00 $129.00 $145.00 $79.99 Fiber content 100 100 Cotton 100 Cotton 100 Cotton 100 Cotton Size L (42-44) Size L (42-44) Size L (42-44) Size L (42-44) Size L (41-44)

Collar length outer edge 18 1/2 17 1/8 16 3/8 18 3/4 18 7/8 Collar length stand edge 16 3/4 16 5/8 16 3/8 16 3/4 16 3/8 *3 A Collar point 3 1/8 3 1/8 3 3 1/8 2 3/4 Collar width 2 2 1 3/4 2 1 7/8 *1 Collar stand edge 18 5/8 18 1/2 18 5/8 19 18 7/8 Collar stand CB width 1 3/8 1 3/8 1 3/8 1 1/4 1 1/8 *1

CB length 33 1/2 33 1/2 33 1/4 32 1/4 32 5/8 CB Neck drop 3/8 1/4 1/2 1/2 1 *2 Neck width 6 to 6 1/4 6 3/4 6 6 1/4 to 6 1/2 6 1/2 Neck circumference 17 1/8 17 1/4 17 17 3/8 17 *3 Back HPS length 33 3/4 33 3/8 33 3/4 32 3/4 33 3/4 Shoulder slope 1 5/8 down 1 7/8 down 2 1/8 down 1 3/4 down 1 7/8 down at x out from HPS @ 7 1/2 out @ 7 7/8 out @ 7 3/4 out @ 7 1/4 out @ 7 3/8 out Back armhole drop 9 3/4 9 3/4 10 9 9 3/4 from top of armhole Page 2 Back armhole width 2 3/8 R 2 1/2 , L 2 5/8 2 2 3/8 2 Back armhole circumfer 11 1/2 10 3/4 11 10 1/2 11

Shoulder-CB-Shoulder 21 1/2 22 21 3/4 20 3/4 21 1/2 Natural Shoulder length R 7 3/4 , L 8 R 8 , L 8 1/8 R 8 1/8 , L 8 3/8 7 1/2 7 3/4 CB depth 4 4 3 3/8 3 1/8 4 7/8

Where back yoke Shoulder blades Shoulder blades Center back box Center back box Shoulder blades Yoke pleats wdth, fr Ah R 3/4 , 3 3/4 R 1/2 , 3 1/2 1 1/2" box, 9 3/4 1" box , R 9 1/4 Both 1/2 , 4 L 9 1/2 L 7/8 , 3 1/2 L 3/4 , 3 1/8 Box pleats 5/8 Box pleats 1/2 comments Uneven width Uneven width Space btwn folds Folds kiss Perfect Yoke Cross grain Cross grain Cross grain Undetermined On Grain

High cross back at yoke 20 3/4 20 3/8 21 19 7/8 20 1/2 H cross back, pleats open 23 22 1/2 23 1/2 21 1/4 22 1/2 at (narrowest from CB) 8 7 3/4 7 1/2 8 1/2 6 1/2 Chest at underarms F 26 1/2 , B 27 F 25 1/2 , B 26 1/4 F 25 , B 28 F 26 , B 26 1/4 F 24 , B 26 1/2 Waist at F 24 1/2 , B 25 1/4 F 24 1/2 , B 25 F 24 , B 26 F 23 , B 23 F 24 , B 26 narrowest from HPS 20 21 22 21 20 Bottom opening F 26 , B 26 3/4 F 25 1/2 , B 26 F 26 , B 27 3/4 F 24 1/2, B 24 1/2 F 23 3/4 , B 25 3/4 Tail Depth F 3 1/2 , B 2 3/4 F 3 1/2 , B 2 3/4 2 1/4 F 1 1/2 , B 2 3/4 F 1 1/4 , B 1 1/2

CF Neck drop 4 1/8 3 5/8 4 3 7/8 3 1/2 *2 Front HPS length 33 3/4 34 32 1/2 30 3/4 33 1/2 CF length fr btm of stand 29 3/4 29 3/4 28 1/8 27 Plkt 29 3/4 *4 Btnhle Plkt 29 5/8 *4 Side length 19 1/4 19 1/8 18 18 1/2 R 20 1/2 , L 20 1/8

Front Armhole width 3 3/4 3 5/8 R 3 , L 2 3/4 3 1/4 2 1/2 High cross chest at 18 1/2 18 1/2 19 1/8 19 1/4 19 (narrowest from HPS) 6 1/2 6 3/4 5 1/2 4, actual narrow- 6 1/4 est at shoulder Front armhole circumfer 11 3/4 12 3/8 12 1/2 11 11 1/2 Page 3 Total armhole circumfer 23 1/4 23 1/8 23 1/2 21 1/2 22 1/2

Placket width 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 3/4 Button spacing top to 2nd 4 4 2 3/4 3 1/4 3 7/8 Button spacing 2nd to btm 4 4 3 1/2 3 1/4 3 7/8 to 4 1/4

Sleeve length from cap 25 3/8 25 1/4 Short slv 10 1/2 26 25 3/4 CB neck to end of 36 1/8 36 1/4 Short slv 21 3/8 36 3/8 36 1/2 Undersleeve length 21 1/2 21 3/4 7 3/4 22 22 Sleeve width at opening 5 5 8 3/4 4 3/8 R 4 3/4 , L 5 Sleeve width at underarm 11 10 3/4 10 1/2 9 3/4 10 Cap from underarm 4 3/4 4 1/2 R 3 1/2 , L 3 3/4 4 1/2 4 3/4 Cuff width 2 1/2 2 1/2 NA, 1 1/8 2 3/4 2 11/16

Chest pocket grain On grain match frnt On grain match frnt On grain match frnt On grain match frnt On grain match frnt

Chest pocket from HPS 10 1/4 10 3/8 10 1/4 10 5/8 10 Chest pocket width at top 5 1/2 5 1/2 5 1/4 5 1/4 5 3/8 Chest pocket length 6 6 6 1/8 5 1/4 5 5/8

Cuff width 1 1 NA 1 1 Cuff placket length 7 1/2 R 7 , L 6 7/8 NA 7 1/2 6 1/4 *5 Cuff placket tip shape House House NA House Rectangle *5 Tip box length 2 1 3/4 NA 1 1/4 1 *5 Placket button from cuff R 2 1/2 , L 3 R 2 1/2, L 2 5/8 NA R 2 3/4 , L 3 NA Placket btn to tip boxstitch R 3 , L 2 1/2 R 2 3/4 , L 2 1/2 NA 3 1/4 NA Cuff pleats width , at 3/4 R 3/4 , 1/2 L 5/8 NA 1/2 5/8 1st pleat from placket R 7/8 , L 1 1/8 R 1, L 1 3/8 NA 7/8 R 3/4 , L 1 2nd pleat from 1st pleat R 3/8 , L 1/2 7/8 NA 5/8 5/8

Packaging retained at factory in shipping box. Notes taken at review. Fabric, stitching, fit comments: Orvis LS Plaid Shirt w btn down collar. "Navy" (Tonal 3-color blue plaid: Primary color Mid blue. Secondary color Dark blue. Accent color Light blue.) Repeat measures 2 1/8" H X 1 11/16" W. Vertical dominates. Dimensions of repeat denote fabric possibly importe d , although not no te d on label. 100% Cotton. Warm feel. Midweight plain weave fabric appropriate for Fall, Winter, Spring. Holds wrinkles. Page 4 Front Body plaid even at yoke, uphill 1/4" at underarms, uphill 1/8" at hem. Woven labels (4:) High quality woven. High density, woven edge. Main label three colors. Others two colors. Tiny lettering clear and readable. Main label is end fold, end-sewn, placed centered on back yoke . "Made in New England" label end sewn, placed centered on collar stand facing. Size loop label sandwitched into neckline seam, to wearer's left of other labels. Content / COO / Care loop label in English language sandwiched into button placket seam, 3 1/4" up from hem. Sew-in in Collar, Collar Stand, placket, Cuffs. Softness and temper is flexible as expected for this shirt. Buttonhole Placket a separate piece overlain on front of shirt. Button placket is "-on" and folded toward backside of body. light blue pearescent , 4 hole, Mid blue surface coating that is machined off flat outer face to reveal pearl. Scribe around holes. Collar tip buttons. Button stitching reinforced with spots of interfacing on shirt inside. One extra collar tip button and one body button placed on inside button placket, 2" and 3" up from hem. High SPI used for construction. For example: 16 SPI to stitch collar. 18 -20 SPI to stitch Buttonhole placket. 20 - 22 SPI to stitch yoke and armholes. All seams clean + turned finish. 3/8" mock felled armholes + cuff join to sleeve. 3/16" felled undersleeve seams + side seams. 1/32" 1-ndl edgestitching yoke + collar stand. 3/16" 1-ndl edgestitching collar and cuff opening. Overall gentle handling, even stitching, even piecing. smooth and flat in armholes. All meas seem to be within tolerance. Slightest torqueing of hem seam at curves. Shoulder and cuff pleats are uneven takeup and placement, but within tolerance. Fit is "bigger" than we are used to. Perhaps mature man's fit. Or "old" . Or fabric shrinkage allowance. Perhaps "old" pattern updated with nipped waist, but everywhere else it is still big + old fit.

Orvis Plaid Flannel Shirt. "Navy" (Multi 6-color plaid: Primary color Dark blue. Secondary colors: coffee brown + mid gray, Accents: White, red, black.) Repeat measures 1 3/8" H X 1 1/4" W. Neither direction visually dominates. Dimensions of repeat denote fabric possibly imported, although not noted 100% Cotton. Cold feel. Slippery. Lighweight micro twill weave fabric. Not brushed - mill mistake forgot to brush it. Resists wrinkles. Front Body plaid downhill 3/4" at yoke, downhill 1 1/4" at underarms, downhill 1 1/4" at hem. Woven labels: all details this shirt are same as on above Orvis LS Plaid Shirt. Sew-in interfacing: of lesser weight than above which is appropriate for this shirt's fabric weight, all other details same as on above shirt. : all details same as on above shirt. Buttons are pearlescent off white color plastic, 4 hole, recessed domed middle with raised flat face rim. Collar tips have diagonal pocket underneath to insert clear plastic collar stays aka tabs. Two extra buttons placed on inside button placket, 3" and 4" up from hem. Extremely high SPI used for construction, of 20+ SPI. Unable to count individual stitches on most seams. 14 SPI used on felled undersleeve + side seam. 14 - 16 SPI used to sew . Same seam finishes on all seams as above shirt, except Page 5 no mock felling on cuff join seam to sleeve, and wider 1/2" mock fell stitching around armholes. Shirt pattern this style is different from the pattern used to produce above shirt. Especially evident in neckline shape. Overall rushed or hesitant or timid handling, or poorly designed pattern (Sleeve cap stretching during handling or too much front sl e e ve in pattern) Sleeves into front armholes look terrible, bunching, almost gathering at front underarms. Very bubbly not lay flat. Torqueing on body at armholes. Operator tried to force excess sleeve ease into armhole. Back underarm has similar problem to a lesser degree as front. Torqueing on both outside edges of buttonhole placket. Outside edges ruffling from too many stitches. Ruffling cuff outer placket. Ruffling center back collar and cuff openings between edgestitching and edge. Front tail longer than the back. Front tail noticeably longer than back. Torqueing of hem seam at curves. Shoulder and cuff pleats are uneven takeup and placement, but within tolerance. Cuff placket unsteady house-shaped box stitchng, uneven placket buttons. Fit comments same as for above shirt, compounded by slippery fabric + terrible sleeve insertion gives billowy oversized late 80s early 90s fit. Keep this as a sewing reference of how NOT to make a quality shirt.

Gitman Brothers Co SS Check shirt "Lime"(Multi 3-color check: All three same importance: Cobalt blue, Lime green, White) Repeat measures 2" H X 2 1/16" W. Neither direction visually dominates. Content label says "Imported fabric." 100% Cotton. Plain weave. "Slub " have a very fine weave fabric effect. Yarns of slightly larger denier are very shiny- look like . Slippery. Cold feel. Wrinkles a lot and holds the wrinkles. Front Body plaid uphill 1/8" to 1/4" at yoke, uphill 1/4" at underarms, even at hem. Woven labels (3:) Medium quality woven. Medium thread density, woven edges feel hard and cutting on skin. All labels two colors. Main label is end-fold, box stitched by operator (not cam,) placed centered on back yoke facing. Size / COO loop label sandwitched into neckline seam, to wearer's left of other labels. Content / COO / Care / RN end-fold label in English language, end sewn, placed on face of button blacket, above bottom button. ID number stamped black ink onto inside button placket, near hem "443761." Fusible interfacing in Collar + Collar Stand. Laminated to collar, not collar facing. Seems to be laminated to both stand and facing. Softness and temper is boardy, much stiffer than to be expected of this shirt fabric. Laminate bubbling off collar after my handling. Both plackets "cut-on" body and turned twice toward inside of shirt. No interfacing. Buttonhole placket not stitched down. themselves secure buttonhole placket from coming apart. 1-ndl edgestitching secures the button placket. Buttons are pearlescent off white color plastic, 4 hole, recessed middle with raised edge, then flat face sloping downward rim. These buttons are the nicest finish, highest quality looking of all in this study. Collar tips have diagonal pocket underneath to insert clear plastic collar stays aka tabs. Collar design very tight, ends perpindicular to sides, no flare for tip style or spread, very efficient use of fabric, as if "old" pattern from military, or rationing, or custom shirt industry. One extra button placed on face of button placket, 3 3/4" up from hem. Page 6 Sleeve openings hemmed open and flat, before undersleeves and side seams felled. Sleeve hemmed with 1-ndle edgestitch, wavy varies from 1" to 1 1/8", visually noticeable on the scale of this check. Undersleeves + side seams felled before hem. Left undersleeve not match, left back underarm corner chopped off. Resulting in twisted sleeve With back undersleeve edge 1/2" shorter than front undersleeve edge + front side seam 1/2" shorter than back side seam. Felling stitches secured across sleeve openings with 3 stitches forward + 3 stitches back. Felling stitches torqued diagonally at undersleeves. Bubbled between stitching rows vertically + horizontally. Along side seam, front + back bodies have soft small folds radiating downward toward hem. Felling edge points back on right side, points front on left side. Looks odd. Usually both point front or both point back. Hem torqued at dip curves. Excess turn up at plackets looks like mistake. Hem secured at placket edges, with 3 stitch backtack. Hem stitching uneven repairs not always line up. Some cross each other in a cross with no back . Some repairs tied off with simple knot. Stitch spacing from edge varies between 1/8" to 5/16". Visually noticeable. Armholes mock felling, the distance between the two rows of stitching varies between 3/8" to just under 1/2" apart. Visually noticeable. 1/16" 1-ndl edgestitch on collar + yoke. 3/16" between fell stitching rows. 20 SPI on collar. 16 SPI on collar stand. 18 SPI on armholes. 14 SPI on sleeve . 12 - 14 SPI on undersleeve + side seam felling + hem. Fit around body is "big" and "blousy" and oversized, as if an "old" pattern from late 80s to early 90s. Back yoke box pleat allowance added to entire back body panel from yoke to hem, rather than from yoke to bottom of armholes per modern. Overall rushed or hesitant or timid handling. Keep this as a sewing reference of how NOT to make a quality shirt.

Bill's Khakis Davidson Plaid w btn down collar. "Navy" (Multi 5-color plaid: Primary colors White + Dark blue. Primary accent Kiwi green. Secondary accent Butter Yellow. Minor accent Cobalt blue, horizontal only.) Repeat measures 2 1/8" H X 1 7/8" W. Neither direction visually dominates. Main label states "... of imported fabric." 100% Cotton. Plain weave. "Poplin" fabric of fine denier, ultra high threadcount, very cool and smooth, but not slick. Front Body plaid uphill 1/4" at yoke, uphill 1/4" at underarms, uphill 3/16" at hem. Woven labels (4:) Main label diecut + Deco mood end fold label high quality, lots of fine line detail, fine yarns, 3 colors each. Size loop + Content / care loop labels medium quality. Medium thread density, woven edges feel hard and cutting on skin. 2 colors each/ Main label cam stitched around edges, placed centered on back yoke facing. Size loop label inserted into yoke seam under main label. Deco mood label box stitched onto face of button placket, 2 1/2" up from hem. Content / care label inserted into wearer's right side seam, 3" up from hem. Fusible interfacing fused onto collar stand + cuffs. None in collar + plackets. Buttonhole Placket a separate piece overlain on front of shirt. Button placket is "cut-on" and folded toward backside of body. Buttons are pearlescent off white color plastic, 4 hole, recessed middle with raised edge, then flat face sloping downward rim. Collar tip buttons. Button stitching, no interfacing reinforcement on shirt inside. Page 7 One extra collar tip button and one body button placed on button placket face, 1 3/4" and 2 1/4" up from hem. Butter yellow color stitchng thread throughout gives really interesting + beautiful finsh to this shirt! Rather than expected white. 1-ndl edgestitch placed 1/4" from edges on collar, both sides of buttonhole placket, cuffs. Fell stitched yoke, armholes, undersleeves + side seams with uniform 1/4" spacing between rows. Mock felled cuff where joins sleeve. Uniform 1/4"spacing between rows. 1-ndl edgestitch along collar stand facing where it joins neckline. All other shirts this study had 2-ndl edgestitch here. Very neat repair on collar stand, aligned stitching. Cuff plackets beautiful. House-shaped box stitch sewn by operator. Hem stitching varies slightly 1/32". Tries to be 1/4" from edge to match rest of shirt. 10 - 12 SPI undersleeve + side seam. 12 - 14 SPI collar, buttonhole placket, armholes, cuffs. 10 SPI hem. 11 SPI collar stand. Gentle, confident hands put this together. Most beautifully made. Narrower shoulder + longer sleeve this style = (same as or similar) wider shoulder + shorter sleeve of other brands. Fit most similar to SK shirts Keep this as a sewing reference of how to make a quality shirt: Gentle handling. All parts match up. Neat repairs. Uniform spacing between stitching rows, and from edges of shirt. SPIs nearly the same throughout the shirt.

Stormy Kromer Twill Shirt. "Olive" solid. Back yoke pleat allowance added to entire back body panel from yoke to hem, rather than from yoke to bottom of armholes per some other styles. Fit is for mature man. Slightly boxy and oversized. Straight side seams with slight taper to bottom each side. Fitted silhouette developed earlier 2012 for future season. Notes discussing possible pattern changes + stitching changes listed at bottom of Excel file sent July 30, 2012 entitled "SK Copy of Shirt Changes Tamaras Addendum." Proposed 2013 Shirt Changes to Cost out:

*When a change is indicated to be made for all shirts, this includes Flannel, Twill and Deck

Any or All Tamara's suggested changes per 7-30-2012 SK Twill Shirt study (Jacquart Co to do as it feels best)

For measurements see Bills Khakis shirt and / or Excel file dated 7-30-2012 entitled "SK M Long Sleeve Shirt study Competitors points of measure comparison"

* 1 Pattern change to collar, collar interfacing, collar facing, collar stand, collar stand interfacing, collar stand facing: Split lengthwise through middle. Spread vertically 1/8". True and rejoin ends. Resulting in a slightly taller collar and stand to match Bills Khakis shirt collar and stand.

* 2 Pattern change to Center back neck drop and Center front neck drop: Raise (Fill in) 1/2" at Center back neck to 0 (zero) at neck width. Lower same amount (Scoop out) 1/2" at Center front neck to 0 (zero) at neck width. While keeping neckline edge measurement same as current. Resulting in "more forward" neck opening to match Bills Khakis neck opening (+ more similar to all shirts studied)

* 3 Pattern marking change on collar stand + collar stand facing (a guess, as I do not have Bills Khakis shirt with me) Move marks for Collar stand button and collar buttonhole about 1/8" to 3/16" toward each end. Results in a bigger neckline measurement to match Bills Khakis neckline measurement.

No pattern change required, as SK collar stand length seems to measure close to / same as Bills Khakis collar stand. But Bills Khakis neck measurement from button tack to wearing spot in buttonhole measures 3/8" bigger. Note Bills Khakis achieves this by truncating the ends of its collar stand and collar stand facing, so it has that extra little bit of fabric space in the upper corners of the stand to allow the button tack and neck buttonhole to be closer to ends. Rather than a radius at upper corners as SK and most other companies do. * 3 A After adjusting SK collar stand pattern marks, this results in some collar space above the button. If you like that bit of space, then leave collar, collar interfacing and collar facing pattern as is. If not, then do pattern change to collar, collar interfacing and collar facing: Move out horizontally each front neckline edge corners 1/8" to 3/16". Blend to 0 (zero) at collar points.

* 4 Possible pattern change to Shirt Fronts at Button placket, Button placket interfacing, Button placket facing, Buttonhole placket, Buttonhole placket interfacing, Buttonhole placket facing: My SK shirt button placket is 1/8" short and buttonhole placket is 1/4" short. They look unhappy. If this is a chronic occurrence, then build in some pattern allowance (this is different from ) to allow for this extra turn up that happens during handling / manufacturing. It could be achieved two ways: (4A) Add to bottom edge of shirt fronts at plackets, or perhaps all pieces, 1/8" to 1/4" vertical length (or other amount necessary) to meet finished spec. (4B) Subtract from and facings 1/8" to 1/4" (or other amount as necessary)

* 5 Pattern change and marking change to Cuff plackets. As discussed earlier. To look like Bills Khakis shirt cuff plackets.

Chest pocket: Pattern change, edgestitching, finishing changes, Top edge facing turnback- turn back same as current? More? Less? Edgestitching- 2-ndl same as current? 1-ndl? Secure top corners- horizonal bartack same as current? Vertical bartack (s)? Deco computer box stitch?

Plackets: Width- same as current? Narrower? Edgestitching- 2-ndl same as current? 1-ndl? Competitive Study Men’s Long Sleeve Buttondown Shirts

We evaluated four USA competitor shirts and current SK Twill Shirt shown at http://www.stormykromer.com/mens/shirts/basic-twill-shirt All shirts Made in USA. We compared fabrics, trims, styling, patternmaking, fit and manufacturing processes.

Orvis NE Long Sleeve Shirt Orvis Fall River Flannel LS Shirt Gitman Bros SS Check Shirt

Bills Khakis Davidson Plaid LS Shirt Stormy Kromer Twill Shirt Second Each shirt was photographed front, back, sleeve, armhole curvature / sleeve cap, cuff finish, collar and stand shape. Bills Khakis shirt shown here. All other shirts photographed and studied per same process.

I use these photos with Excel measurements for my pattern making reference on new styles. I study panel shapes, curvature, grainlines and finishing details, incorporating best features into new styles. Each shirt was fit on body and photographed front, back, side arm down and side arm lifted. Bills Khakis shirt shown here. All other shirts photographed and studied per same process.

Study results:

SK doing lots of things “right” to produce quality shirts, same as or better than competitors. By changing one operation, SK will aesthetically be same as or better than competitors.

Competitors not do everything better; i.e. unbrushed flannel, noticeable downhill plaids, fusible interfacing, uneven handling.

Tamara: Keep current SK Twill Shirt fit. Develop future SK styles in new modern fit. Engineering: Pursue running change in current production of one operation to be same as competitors. Determine cost of machines to do new operation, how many needed, operator training time. Estimate costs, savings to do new operation. Recalculate margins at new price point. Produce sample run to confirm.