PESTS and POLLINATORS and How to Control and Attract Them

Fascinating GARDEN PESTS AND POLLINATORS And how to control and attract them.

Copyright Notice © 2015 Cindy Rajhel All Rights Reserved. This publication is protected under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976 and all other applicable international, federal, state and local laws. All rights are reserved, including resale rights. You are not allowed to sell this eBook to anyone else. Like a traditional print book, you are free to lend or give it to your friends and especially to teachers, parents, students and garden coordinators. This means you can provide the same file to another person, once. Copying the book is not permitted without permission. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any format, electronic, mechanical, audio or video without written permission from the author. To request permission to distribute to a group or to use multiple copies in a classroom setting, send an email to [email protected]

Disclaimer

Disclaimer Although the author has made every effort to ensure the information is true and correct, it does not warrant the accuracy, adequacy or completeness of such information. Garden conditions are always changing and the state of the soil, plants, temperature and environmental conditions all play a role in pest management and beneficial insect habitats. The author of the document and its sponsoring website, Home Grown Fun, do not accept any responsibility or liability for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly in connection with the use of the information contained in document or any resource linked to from the document. In addition, No data transmitted over the Internet can be guaranteed as totally secure. While we strive to protect such information, we do not warrant and cannot ensure the security of any information transmitted while purchasing the document or using linked websites.

CONTENTS .

Copyright Notice ...... 1 Disclaimer ...... 2 Introduction...... 4 Aphids ...... 6 Armyworms ...... 12 Assassin Bugs ...... 14 Bees ...... 16 Butterflies and Moths ...... 18 Cabbage Loopers ...... 25 Cabbageworms ...... 26 Damsel Bugs ...... 27 Damselflies ...... 29 Deer...... 30 Diamondback Moth ...... 33 GAME – Friend or Foe ...... 35 Grasshoppers ...... 36 Lacewings ...... 40 Lady Beetles ...... 42 Leaf-Footed Bug...... 44 Pea Maggots ...... 47 Praying Mantids ...... 48 Snails ...... 49 Squash Vine Borers ...... 52 Stink Bugs & Squash Bugs ...... 53 Squirrels ...... 55 Tent Caterpillars ...... 56 Tomato Hornworms ...... 57 Torpedo Bugs...... 65 Wasps ...... 66 Whiteflies ...... 68 Worms ...... 70

Introduction

ot a day goes by that I don’t see something new in the garden. Have you ever taken a photograph of a branch, leaf or flower and blown it up on the computer to discover a creature that would have otherwise gone unnoticed? My most exciting “blow up” may be a tomato hornworm’s molted skin. I would have never seen its discarded costume without increasing the resolution of the photo. It’s a curious image. Is that a tiny hornworm looking down at big brother or is it a mask? Don’t get me wrong. I dread garden pests. But as I stand remarkably still, with shears in hand, waiting to perform an “Edward Scissorhands” on an unsuspecting squash bug, I also appreciate how both pests and “beneficials” survive and that gives me the knowledge and skill to keep them at bay without much hassle - and without harsh chemicals or even homemade pepper sprays! Access to these “secrets of success” come at a price. You’re forced to put up with my weird humor and corny jokes!

Don’t say I didn’t warn you!

Aphids At Ease Soldier owever annoying, aphids are a fairly easy pest to control. Are you surprised? Can you believe all you need in most cases to control the enemy is a strong shot of plain water?

Identify aphids. Aphids can be brown, yellow, green, red or black. Some have wings, some don’t. They move slow, feed in groups and are shaped like pears. Wax-releasing “exhaust pipes” called cornicles stick out from their behinds and this feature distinguishes aphids from other pests in the garden. Once you spot those rear-end features, you shouldn’t find it difficult to distinguish aphids from other pests. Look closely and there may be a friendly insect among the patch of aphids. Read on to find out more… How do aphids find the garden? Balmy conditions tempt winged aphids hiding in the trees to land in the garden. Most plants are susceptible to aphids.  Gain the advantage! Aphid paratroopers arrive at the objective and Start looking for the immediately give birth - to live baby aphids! first wave of aphids There are no eggs to hatch or larvae to develop. early in the season Aphids produce alert, eager and hungry offspring when new growth ready to bear another generation almost emerges. immediately. Babies Having Babies!

You’ll also inherit aphids from plants brought to the garden from greenhouses, nurseries and home improvement centers. It may be impossible to prevent aphids. But they are a pest that can be easily controlled. How much damage can aphids cause? Mature plants won’t die from an infestation. Young plants and seedlings can be stunted and killed from the stress. In the vegetable garden, aphids cause yellow, curling leaves and the honeydew they release attracts ants. With their piercing mouthparts they inject toxins and can transmit toxins. Certain crops like squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, melons, beans, potatoes, lettuce, beets, chard and bok choy are hosts for aphid viruses. This is important to consider since the seed of a plant infected with the virus would not be good to keep or share with others. It might be best to destroy the plant.

Avoid saving seed from plants that have been heavily infested with aphids.

What is the best method to control aphids? Total prevention is probably impossible. You can significantly reduce the numbers by inspecting plants carefully – those already growing in your garden and others you bring in from outside sources.

Want more facts and detail? Put on your battle dress uniform and check out this military-inspired guide about aphids. It uses lots of fun military jargon and more than enough mental ammunition to be armed and dangerous! Seven Maneuvers to Make Aphids Retreat

Without Chemicals or Homemade Pepper Sprays ... 1. Wait before dropping chemical weapons. If you spot a few aphids on your plants don't take off to the home improvement store like a “can of night vision” to snatch up an arsenal of pesticides. “As You Were.” Healthy crops grown in healthy soil and watered appropriately should be able to defend themselves against aphids. “Secret Aphid Man, Secret Aphid Man”. Have you ever heard that song by Johnny Rivers? There are secret agents in your garden that lead a life of danger but may have everything under control. Baby lacewings, syrphid flies and lady beetles love to sneak around and capture unsuspecting aphids. Lady beetle larvae can woof down twenty aphids a day and their parents at least fifty! 2. Know what chemicals do to other creatures and your garden ecosystem. Most preventive sprays (except milk) and many types of pesticides (natural and synthetic) might actually encourage aphid outbreaks because natural predators are killed off too.

 Insecticidal soaps kill soft bodied insects and are more environmentally friendly than harsher chemicals. These soaps dry out the skin of a pest. Since the larvae of the lacewing, syrphid fly and lady beetle are soft bodied, and these beneficial insects all feed on aphids during the larval stage, applying insecticidal soaps also poses a threat to friendlies in the garden. Don’t do it.

 Pepper spray and the capsaicin in it is toxic “hillbilly armor” and lethal to honey bees so mixing up a batch of hot pepper juice to apply to a wide area as a preventive measure may not be the best idea. “Roger that, over!”

 Neem oil and horticultural oils are options but also can kill beneficial insects too. These “spray and pray” oils won't kill new insects that fly in after the application. Soaps and oils are problematic when the weather heats up because they allow the plant to burn. 3. Know your "aphid season". Check to see when aphids are most active in your part of the world. Aphids are usually at their worst right after the “boot sucking mud” season. One aphid can produce a hundred more aphids in four weeks. They act up when the weather warms. In colder months they put on ghillie suits and take refuge in perennial bushes or weeds.

4. Try adding more herbs to the garden that are thought to repel aphids. COMPANION PLANTS TO DETER APHIDS Try growing these plants near susceptible crops to confuse the enemy. Coriander Grow near many plants in the garden to fend off aphids. Garlic Position some of your garlic seed around your berry plants. Mint Place potted mint near kohlrabi, broccoli and Brussels sprouts. Nasturtium Surround cabbage and plant at the base of fruit trees and cucumbers.

5. Know your enemy does not work alone. Ants and aphids act like allies on the battlefield. Ants will protect aphids from predators because they love to gather the honeydew produced by the aphids. Several studies show that those “cheese eater” ants not only protect the aphids from ladybugs, parasitic wasps and lacewings, but they also encourage bigger and longer lasting colonies with higher reproduction rates. Some ant species rely on this “aphid Kool-Aid” for 50% of their diet! It's amusing that ants stimulate and tickle the bellies of aphids to get them to excrete the sweet treat. Honeydew farmed by ants sometimes molds on the plant and this is the crud that looks like black sooty fungus.

6. Over-fertilize with nitrogen and aphids rejoice! You could be part of the problem! Yes, I’m sure this is hard to believe but if you apply synthetic forms of “foo-foo juice” (those miracle-type nitrogen fertilizers) your plants will experience a jolt in growth. In the process, cell walls develop thinner than normal. Weak plants are perfect targets for sap-sucking pests. Flowering plants especially do not need loads of nitrogen. This goes for tomatoes, squash and basil – anything that blooms! Aphids live off plant sap and when new shoots appear it’s like the “gaggin wagon” just showed up. FRIVILOUS FERTILIZING = VICTORY FOR APHIDS!

7. Water may be the best option. Most aphids do not have their airborne wings and are terrible climbers. These “ground pounding lifers” stay on one plant their entire lifecycle. They’re weak, don’t move quickly and usually won't fly away when disturbed. Once knocked off a plant they won't be able to get back on to feed. A strong stream of water will “croc-a-dile” those aphids into oblivion. Hoorah!

Armyworms In the Shadows rmyworms are a lesser known threat in the home garden. Most of the time, we blame damage to tomato, okra and beans on other pests.

Identify armyworms. Try to train your eyes to look for a dark colored caterpillar. These caterpillars vary in pattern and color usually sporting yellow or light-toned, full-length stripes with brown or green bodies. Newly hatched larvae have faint or no stripes. Moths are pale brown or gray with a mottled pattern and are most active after dark. How do armyworms get into the garden? In the spring, gray moths lay little white eggs in the grass and plant cover at night.

What damage do armyworms cause? Armyworms sometimes attack in battalion-like swarms, hence their name. Their favorite vegetables are corn, beans and cabbage. Whole harvests of commercially grown corn have been ruined by armyworms. Once they find their way inside the whorls of corn, they can feed freely, protected from predators. Armyworms will eat many different types of plants. They won’t destroy a whole tomato or defoliate the entire vine. They will nibble on leaves and bore small holes in the fruit making them an annoying pest in the backyard garden.

What is the best NATURAL defense against armyworms? The best way to control armyworms in the home garden, without chemicals, is to remove them by hand and place them where the birds can snatch them up. Armyworms prefer night noshing and will hide out in debris or under leaves during the day. That’s when you can locate and destroy them. Look early in the season as they love entering the young ears. The larger the caterpillar the more plant matter it will consume. Just another reason to keep your eyes peeled before it is too late.

Another key step in controlling armyworms involves encouraging natural predators to visit your vegetable patch. Birds are an easy predator to attract by placing a feeder or two near your garden.

Do not use pesticides.

Lacewings, lady beetles, ground beetles and rove beetles will take care of armyworm eggs and early larvae. Tachinid flies, parasitic wasps and fungi also attack armyworms keeping the ecosystem in balance. Birds pluck the caterpillars from the grass and weeds, and snatch the moths up in flight. Flowers and flowering herbs will attract birds and beneficial insects.

Assassin Bugs Hire a Hitman on’t take him out! He may look fierce but he’s not the one doing the damage. Assassin bugs move into position in June and stay all summer long, targeting garden pests like caterpillars, leafhoppers and aphids. This is a tough garden guest that will not wear out his welcome. Assassins lay in wait, stalk their prey and get the job done quickly before you can say, “What happened to my peas?” They paralyze the victim first and then suck up the enemy like a milkshake! Their favorite targets are Japanese beetles, grasshoppers, aphids and stink bugs. Yes, I want the assassin bug on my side! Keep pesticides and even homemade hot pepper sprays out of the garden and let the good predators take care of business. There are many species of assassin bugs but you may only see one or two in your garden.

Chemical free

gardens will have

more good bugs like

the assassin.

Unfortunately, the assassin can attack butterflies and bees so you may need to relocate these killing machines to a more appropriate location in the garden if you lure bees and butterflies to a specific area. Young Recruits Nymphs of the assassin bug are sometimes confused with leaf-footed bug babies (pest). Leaf-like flaps begin to develop on the back legs of leaf-footed bugs. Assassin nymphs usually have dark-colored legs and antennae and do not sport leafy legs. The assassin bug’s hind end curves upward and this also distinguishes it from the leaf-footed bug. Look around for adult leaf-footed bugs and if you see nymphs nearby they are probably leaf-footed bug young. An Assasssin on Wheels There is one type of assassin that is beneficial in the vegetable garden, slightly dangerous to humans and fascinating all at the same time! Wheel bugs are the largest assassin bug species. Check out this gladiator’s weapon-like circular crest. Don’t try handling one of these warriors because they have been known to bite humans, causing a painful sting that will last several hours. Do keep them around to help control caterpillars and grasshoppers.

Watch in fascination!

Bees Queens of Pollination ost of the plants we grow need help to become fertile, set fruit and produce seed. That’s where the queens of the pollination world come into the picture. In the process of collecting pollen and nectar for their young, bees move the pollen grains from male plant parts (anthers) to female plant parts (stigmas). Bees hibernate in winter unless the weather warms up unexpectedly. Some bees feed off a variety of plants. Most bees target specific flowers and time their activity to coincide with bloom. They’ll be out and about from spring through fall looking for their favorites. There are many types of bees. We’re most familiar with honeybees and bumblebees – the social kind. Honeybees live in hives that last a long time while bumblebees make a new nest every year.

Worker honeybees carry pouches of pollen on their hind legs – for eventual storage in the comb's cells within the hive. You can see that pouch on the bee in the image above. The rows of long, curled hairs on the back legs form a "pollen basket". Sweet Ride!

Surprisingly, social bees only account for 15% of the entire bee population! The rest are antisocial, or solitary to be more accurate. Although groups of solitary bees may call the same bush their home, they do not live in colonies. Each nest is only big enough for a few eggs. Carpenter bees are just one of several types of bees that go it alone. They bore holes in wood to create their homestead. If you want bees to help your crops along, plant native wildflowers, fruits, herbs and vegetables. Your buzzing friends have a great sense of smell and can recognize patterns of color. Choose the most irresistible colors: yellow, white, blue and purple.

Butterflies and Moths “When Hairy Met Salad” e love butterflies but sometimes we don’t love the damage they cause when they are in the caterpillar stage. In spring, as larvae, they munch their way through their favorite plants.

Luckily, most of the butterflies in our gardens do not devour human food crops. After pupating, butterflies become proficient pollinators, seeking out the most vibrant blooms with their keen sense of color and taste. Did you know that they sample the flavor of the flower with their “feet” before laying eggs to find nurturing host plants for their young?

Some moths benefit the garden as well! Most moths operate after dark and are important pollinators of night blooming flowers. Unfortunately, many moths damage food crops when they are in the larval/caterpillar stage. Showing the differences between moths and butterflies would be a fun school project. Draw pictures or use clay to create models.

Butterflies vs. Moths

There are four features that help us distinguish between butterflies and moths. Antennae - Butterflies have antennae that end in a ball. Moth antennae look feathery or sometimes jagged.

Cocoon/Chrysalis - Pupae need protection while they develop into adults. After molting for the last time, butterfly larvae attach to a leaf before they pupate. Their skin grows tough, into a chrysalis which becomes part of the pupa. Moth larvae create a protective casing separate from their bodies. The cocoons that moths make can be silky and fuzzy or tough and leathery. See the tomato hornworm in this book for an example of a tough, leathery cocoon. Day/Night Preference – Luckily for us, most butterflies love to move about during the day. Moths see the most action at night.

Size, Color and Texture - Butterflies are usually larger and more colorful than moths. Moths need a shave. They’ve got hair and peach fuzz everywhere! Despite their reputation for being drab, moths are beautiful creatures. See the gorgeous Io moth coming up. 19

To attract butterflies, enhance your garden with plants that feature sweet smelling flowers growing in brightly-colored clusters.

A gulf fritillary butterfly emerges from the cocoon to dry off its wings and take flight in less than 24 hours. This butterfly species lays eggs on the passion vine. Tiny caterpillars feed on the leaves and once full grown, hang in a “J” shape on a stem to pupate. One Last Drop of Dew!

Monarchs Maybe the most famous butterfly of all, monarchs take center stage at schools and public gardens because they are beautiful of course, and because they are a fairly easy butterfly to support and study. They reproduce and feed upon a plant called milkweed. But there’s one catch…

Adult monarch butterflies enjoy the nectar of many types flowers and need diversity to survive and reproduce. But take note, they will only lay their eggs on milkweed. And the caterpillars will only eat milkweed leaves. Therefore, if you plan to provide a home for the butterflies to reproduce and for the caterpillars to feed, you must have enough milkweed in your garden. Monarch caterpillars are voracious eaters and can pick a plant clean in one day! I’ve read lots of testimonials on the internet by gardeners and butterfly enthusiasts who planted too little too late. Monarch larvae will not eat Swiss chard! They only feed on milkweed under the botanical name Asclepias.

Imposters Don’t get confused with plants marketed for monarchs. You cannot substitute “butterfly bush” or “butterfly weed” as host plants for the caterpillars. They are important as a source of nectar for adult butterflies and other pollinators. Seek out the REAL milkweed under the botanical name Asclepias.

Lifecycle of a Monarch  Milkweed plants must NOT contain pesticides. Check EGG 4 days with the nursery and if the nursery is supplied with LARVAE to CATERPILLAR 2 weeks plants from a grower, ask if

the grower uses pesticides. PUPA IN CHRYSALIS 10 days Monarch caterpillars often die because the plant is ADULT BUTTERFLY 2-6 weeks contaminated.

MIGRATING ADULT BUTTERFLY Several months. Migrate and then lay eggs in spring.

Monarch Migration

Eastern Monarchs are found across North America east of the Rocky Mountains. Most Western Monarchs Those born in the thrive west of the fall migrate south Rocky Mountains to the Sierra mountains And migrate to Southern Canada in Mexico. These same California for the winter. butterflies return in the spring to lay eggs.

Mexico

Attract Monarchs to Your Garden Feature a variety of native, flowering trees and shrubs. Plant at least one native species of milkweed and plenty of it to support large butterfly populations. Butterflies feed from spring to fall. Choose plants that bloom at different times.

Don’t Scoff at the Moth If you saw this in the wild would you feel compelled to find out what it is? When I stumbled upon this beauty I couldn’t help but search for the skinny on this colorful and fuzzy moth. I discovered the Io moth is a dying breed across the Midwest.

Her wings were fluttering madly, showing off gorgeous eyespots meant to scare off birds and any other would-be predators. Host plants for the larvae (caterpillars) include a long list of trees and vines such as blackberries, cherries and pear. If you’ve ever been stung by something while playing in the cornfields it could have been an Io. They leave venomous spines behind inside your skin.

“Io” is derived from Greek mythology and if you take time to read about this famous partner of Zeus, you will discover she has as many renditions of her life as the caterpillar has stinging hairs. When I asked my 11-year old about “Io”, she amazed me with what she knew off the top of her head.

Cabbage Loopers Are you a Cabbage Looper Provoker? abbage loopers and cabbageworms were big problems in our school garden. Once we finally learned how they work, were able to prevent almost all damage.

These pests do most of their dirty work when full grown. If you inspect your plants often, you should be able to find and pick off any small larvae before it’s too late. Ignore your garden and you might return to total destruction. Cabbage looper moths flitter around at night and lay tiny white eggs. The caterpillars are pale green with white stripes and can grow to about 1 ½ inches long. Fully developed caterpillars can eat through an entire head of lettuce in just a few days. The waste they leave behind will leave you with nothing to add to your salad.

PROTECT THESE PLANTS FROM CABBAGE LOOPERS: Asparagus, beans, cabbage and other crucifers, carrot, celery, corn, lettuce, pea,

pepper, potato and tomato ...

Cabbageworms

The white moths you see during the day are probably cabbageworm adults. Eggs are yellow and so are the stripes down the back and sides of the caterpillar.

The most effective technique to prevent moths from laying eggs in the first place is to cover susceptible crops with cloth. It may not look natural or stylish but it will save your vegetables and your sanity. Guaranteed the expert gardeners on television and the Internet use row covers – you just don’t see much of it when they shoot the shows.

Use old sheets, wedding toile, thin cloth and shade cloth material.

Damsel Bugs Interview with a Vampire nce again, it’s time forrrrrrrrrr, Bug Talk!”. Your chance to get to know garden bugs, friend and foe! HOST: “Today we welcome the damsel bug, not to be confused with a damsel fly. Thanks Damsel for joining us today on Bug Talk! It’s been a while since we’ve had you on the show. Where have you been overwintering?”

DAMSEL: “I took a break among the weeds for a while, and then laid some eggs in the alfalfa fields across the highway.” HOST: “I’m sure you’re excited about all the newly hatched caterpillars and rising aphid colonies.”

DAMSEL: “That’s an understatement. After I popped out all those kids I thought I was done, but the love from all the gardeners out there - that keeps me going. Baby ‘pillars’ and aphids - what a treat – it’s like Halloween all over again! I’m ready too to catch lots of flying pests, especially leafhoppers and thrips. I may look a little delicate, but I’ve been training this soft body to take down my share of potato beetles this season.” HOST: “Good for you! Nice to hear that. Now I hate to bring this up but reports are coming in that you’re eating your own.”

DAMSEL: “Urgggg! That’s the left-winged media taking everything out of context. We only resort to cannibalism if we’ve gone without food for more than two weeks and I’m well-fed and not dining on other damsels – let’s put that rumor to rest.” HOST: “I’m glad we cleared that up. I know some bugs get a bad rap for no reason.”

DAMSEL: “Agree, just because I pierce prey with a needle-like mouth and suck up their guts doesn’t mean I’m bad.” HOST: “Right on! Do you see any challenges this season?”

DAMSEL: “Of course, I’m always hiding from tachinid flies and parasitic wasps. It was really bad last summer in Southern California - 70% of our eggs were attacked by mymarid wasps.” HOST: “Do you have any advice for home gardeners?”

DAMSEL: “Most definitely…if you see me in the garden, leave me alone. I’m on your side. Plant cover crops and flowering plants so I can hide. If you’ve got aphids or other problems, try not to use pesticides because those chemicals will mess me up big time! HOST: “Let’s tell everyone where they’ll find you this season before we go to a commercial break.”

DAMSEL: “Sure thing, thanks for having me on the show. I’ll be hanging out in low growing grass and shrubs.” HOST: “Everybody, give it up for a loyal friend in the garden, the Damsel! ! APPLAUSE !

Damselflies Dragon and a Damsel oung damselflies love to skim fresshwater for mosquito larvae and other insects. Adults consume flies, mosquitoes and moths. Some damselflies may even take care of destructive beetles and caterpillars. They are an asset in the garden, but I bet you already figured that out. This image shows the blue-ringed dancer damselfly. Three Special Characteristics of Damselflies:  Hold their net-like wings parallel to their bodies while at rest.  Eyes are separated and bulge out.  Tend to perch more, resting on rocks and taking lots of breaks. Damselflies belong to the same order as dragonflies (Odonata) but in the group Zygoptera. Because there are many more differences, comparison of the dragonfly and damselfly would make a wonderful exploration project at home or school!

Do you have experiences with pests, pollinators or other creatures that you would like to share and compare? Add your stories on the Home Grown Fun website at the Pest and Pollinator Forum.

Deer Deer are a Drag

ook at that cute fawn eyeing my new garden. She’s probably sizing up my luscious lettuce, thinking I’m the perfect sucker for an early evening “dine and dash”.

Those fluffy white tails will have to bounce right back up the hill to my neighbor’s feeder. This outdoor café is by reservation only! I have successfully kept deer out of my garden using three methods. Three Ways to Keep Deer Away from your Garden

Without Sprays, Bars of Soap or Shot Guns ...

Build Raised Bed Cages Before I set up the fortress, I used wire cages over my raised beds to protect the most tempting fare. It also helps to plant strong scented herbs. Make these raised bed cages with flexible wire fencing. Simply bend over a section and add ends cut to size. Attach the ends with wire or zip ties.

Build the wire cage to fit over the OUTER edge of the bed. You don’t want It to rest on top of the soil in the bed because the wire walls could damage plants when you move the cage. To create a simple hinged system, screw eye hooks into the end posts on one side and attach the cage to those eye hooks with zip ties or a wire loop. An easy adjustment for lots of convenience.

Plant Herbs Deer Don’t Like It doesn’t hurt to plant herbs and vegetables that deer tend to pass by. If the plants you love are considered by deer as a delicacy, then bend yourself some cages and be done with it.

Grow Herbs, Not Deer

Install Fencing to Fend off Ferocious Fauna If the cages are not for you, consider installing an extra tall fence. When I say tall, I mean reach for the stars tall! Deer can easily jump over a five-foot fence. I know this first-hand on my own property. Add at least another two feet and you significantly decrease the likelihood they will try to get in. Look for the semi-invisible fences made of tough but flexible plastic. When I say tough, I mean a fortress! Deer emerge from the woods ravenous in the spring hopeful to recover from the weight loss they experienced when the world was frozen. Almost any plant will look good, especially:

Azaleas, succulent lettuces, beans, berries, chrysanthemum, clematis, hostas, impatients, pansies, peaches, peas, roses and strawberries.

If you want to be done with deer for good, find deer fencing that will hold up under pressure. For example, polypropylene mesh designed for this purpose can withstand a force of a several hundred pounds. Install this and you will never be bothered again by deer, armadillos or okra loving unicorns.

Look for lightweight, UV treated polypropylene with a 2" mesh size and 700 pound breaking load. The fencing I used came in a 100 foot roll and measured 7.5 feet tall.

Diamondback Moth Caterpillars Diss the Diamondback ave and of your cabbage-family plants or other vegetables become overrun with tiny green worms that turn the leaves of your vegetables into Swiss cheese? When disturbed the caterpillars repel to the ground on silken threads - hard to see unless you’re looking for them.

These are my worst-feared garden pest. They have annihilated entire crops of kohlrabi in the past. Now I pay better attention and stop them before they get out of control. How can I identify diamondback caterpillars? Diamondbacks are hyper, little worms that squiggle when disturbed. Both ends of the body are tapered. One third of an inch long, you might lose sight of them as they drop to the ground, twirling landing safely only to crawl back up to feed and pupate on the undersides of leaves.

How much damage can diamondback caterpillars cause? How can something so tiny, cause so much destruction? They eat their way through the leaves until the canopy looks like lace. Although the moths lay single eggs, the numbers of caterpillars you’ll notice on your plants will seem to multiply exponentially in just a few days. Plants become too stressed to develop properly. Remember these six tips to stop the diamondback. 1. Squish eggs under leaves. In spring, and fall especially, inspect your plants daily if possible. Look closely at the underside of each leaf for little yellow eggs or a waxy egg sac. Rub the leaf and make a paste with the pest. 2. Inspect often. The caterpillars only reach about 1/3 inch when mature. Easy to miss…but easy to squish! They'll drop quickly and curl up on the soil so you need to act fast. View the plant at soil level if possible, not from above. 3. Cut down on the weeds. If you let the WEEDS grow tall, pests like the diamondback moth will take refuge in the brush to lay their eggs. 4. Row cover. Are you too proud of your plants or landscape to use shade cloth over your beds? Reconsider. If you delay covering your beds, moths will lay their eggs on the leaves and you’ll regret not protecting them early on. 5. Water – the magic bullet! Follow up your inspection with a strong spray of water from below. This damages young caterpillars. 6. Dust them off. A dusting of diatomaceous earth (DE), crushed ancient shells, might be in order if you still see them on the leaves. Any good garden center or feed store will have food grade DE. It’s used in the feed of livestock to keep away bugs. DE works well for other soft-bodied insects such as snails.

GAME – Friend or Foe

HOW THE GAME WORKS Teams compete to achieve the most correct identifications of of “Friend” or “Foe” in the garden. The game helps us if a creature is mostly “good” or “bad”. More good bugs will survive to help our gardens and the environment if we can identify them properly.

WHAT YOU NEED

 Two sets of images of both pests and beneficial insects.  Two sets of two brown bags (4 bags total). Each team gets a “Friend” bag and a “Foe” bag. PLAY THE GAME Create two teams. Set a timer for two minutes or longer if you have lots of images. Explain to the teams that they will have two minutes to place the images in the correct bags, “Friend” or “Foe”. Say “GO” and when time runs out, check the bags. Place all incorrect entries in a pile for each team. The team with the least amount of wrong choices wins!

Explain why the creature is mostly “good” or “bad”.

Grasshoppers Controlled by Nature

There are a hundred or more types of grasshoppers. Some fly long distances to migrate.

Differential grasshoppers fly short distances and do not migrate like other grasshoppers do. Aren’t they trendy with their black chevron stripes on the femur of the hind legs? As fall approaches, grasshoppers breed and lay inch-long egg masses in the soil. If conditions are favorable - not too dry and not too wet - twenty five nymphs will emerge from one egg cluster. Luckily for us gardeners, grasshoppers are preyed upon by a long list of predators. Grasshopper Predators Mammals and Reptiles and Birds Insects and Diseases and Rodents Amphibians Chickens Invertebrates Parasites Skunks Snakes Hawks Blister beetle Fungus Raccoons Turtles Bluebirds Bee flies Red locust mite Coyotes Lizards Blue Jays Ground beetles Nematodes Foxes Toads Blackbirds Mantids Tachinid fly larvae Mice Frogs Larks Centipedes Opossums Kestrels Bees and wasps Gophers Nighthawks Robber flies Bobcats Phoebes Spiders Some eat the eggs in Armadillos Sparrows Robber Fly Tree Frog Swallows the soil. Wrens

”Yet it is sometimes eyes that blind a man.” As Master Po reveals in the classic television series, Kung Fu, we can see but many of us do not look. While on a walk, stop, scooch down and look closely at the ground. You might notice something amazing. When you’re looking for pests, look for pests crawling on stems, hiding under leaves and trying to camouflage their bodies to evade detection.

Here’s what you saw in the mulch image above, a gray bird grasshopper.

If you were a grasshopper and wanted to listen closely to what was being said in the next room but the door was closed, you might press your belly up against the wall. That’s where grasshoppers “ears” are located. (The “ears” are actually organs that detect sound.)

Gourmet Grasshoppers! Next time the refrigerator looks bare, and you can’t get to the grocery store, catch yourself some pesticide-free grasshoppers and sauté them in a pan for a protein rich-meal! Doesn’t sound appetizing? This is not so unusual in many parts of the world. In the Oaxaca region of Mexico, it is common to snack upon toasted “chapulines” (grasshoppers) at sporting events. In the United States, grasshoppers are offered at many trendy restaurants in New York City. Enjoy them tossed in a wok until they are potato-chip crispy or wrapped in a taco that will cost you $15.00!

Someday the “roach coach” may

no longer be a big joke!

Lacewings Delicate Killers n larvae form, the lacewing becomes a superhero in the garden. Young lacewings love aphids and lucky for us it is a fatal attraction. In many cases it is hard to distinguish between our horticulture allies and enemies. Fortunately, every once in a while we come across a creature that cannot be mistaken for evil. May I introduce to you the alluring lacewing. Check her out at dusk. She’s got a gorgeous green-body and delicate flappers. Her striking golden eyes glisten in the evening and it is fitting – she loves the nightlife. She’s got to boogie. As a young lady in larval stage she looks very different. Her long mouthpiece captivates the unsuspecting. Watching and waiting, she’s ready to grab and suck the guts out of aphids, leafhoppers, mites, caterpillars and whiteflies.

I’m in love with lacewings because they help take care of our most annoying garden pests. “Oh, oh, here she comes. She’s a man eater!” Lacewings appear a lot earlier than other bugs in the garden. Attract them with native flowers, shrubs and trees. They can sense aphid honeydew and seek it out at night as a prime spot to lay eggs. They want their babies to have plenty of nourishing, soft-bodied insects to feed on.

Brown lacewings visit gardens near forested areas.

Lacewing eggs are truly fascinating. They are attached to the undersides of  Like lady beetles, lacewing leaves and other surfaces with a miniscule larvae resemble tiny alligators strand of dried mucus. If you see these (but brown instead of black). sacks in your garden, leave them alone. It only takes four days for the larvae to bust  Plants herbs and flowers to out. Once hatched, the larvae will devour attract lacewings to your aphids immediately and continue for a few garden: cosmos, dill, coriander, weeks until it spins a cocoon and pupates fennel and Queen Anne’s lace. into the pretty lacewing you see above. Look closely with a magnifying glass. Sometimes the row of cocoons has already opened and all that is left are tiny white bags blowing in the breeze.

“Eggciting”

Lady Beetles More than Cute hey deserve their place in the “Hall of Garden Pests”. But because lady beetles are icons for cute, we tend to leave it at that. These mysterious creatures deserve more detail. Who better to explain than a lady beetle herself…

"Hi, I'm a lady beetle, not a bug. I chew my food instead of sucking it up. When something threatens me, I ooze smelly stuff from my legs to scare it away. I’m a tiny super hero! I eat all kinds of pests like aphids, mites, white flies, and scale insects - and even some fungus and mildew. Hold your applause because I'm not perfect. When snacks are not plentiful, I gobble up younger beetles (sorry) and also like to dine on tasty nectar, pollen and honey-dew. Even with these minor flaws, I'm still your friend in the garden. We sometimes get together in swarms in the fall. When temperatures dip below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, we seek shelter in a warm place. Some of my lady beetle buddies can live 3 years! Thinking of releasing me and a bunch of my buddies around your house? Please do some planning first. If I'm not native to your area or if I haven't been fed first, I may just scram for a yummier yard. Let me go at night after you mist your plants and the ambiance might make me stay! If some of us fly away, don't be sad. We will eat your friend's pests.

When I’m first born I am a white spiny creature. Sometimes I am mistaken for a mealy bug. If you see me near a bunch of aphids, leave me alone to feed. Some species of lady beetles secrete a white, waxy substance in the larvae state and resemble hairy cotton balls. (See the image to the right.) Black lady beetle young eventually emerge from the white coats of "armor". Unfortunately, these peculiar little creatures look like mealybugs, a dreaded pest in the outdoor garden as well as on indoor plants. Don’t hurt a lady beetle larva confusing it with a mealybug. Tap its behind. Does it move around? Mealybugs usually stay put and do not budge once they find a place to feed. Lady beetles will scurry about when poked gently. Mealy bugs also come in groups. Mealybug infestations take on a splotchy gooeyness accompanied by black sooty fungus on the leaves nearby, a sugary There are more than 5,000 species of lady beetles in the world. treat loved by ants.

Leaf-Footed Bug Sisters to the Stink eaf-footed bugs get me down. These pests are in abundance from spring to fall. They feed upon fruits and fruiting vegetables, namely my tomatoes. Urgggggg!

There are three main types of leaf-footed bugs. This can be confusing. One has dots (as shown below), the other has a thorny head (similar to the above example) and the last has neither of these features. When they are babies it’s easy to confuse the nymphs with assassin bug nymphs, our friend in the garden.

To identify leaf-footed bugs, look for leaf-like flaps developing from the hind legs. Assassins do not develop these projections.

How do leaf-footed bugs damage crops? Like many pests, leaf-footed bugs look for nourishing fruit juices and suck them up using straw-like mouthparts. Pistachio, almond and other nut crops can become damaged because the bug wants the seed and injects a liquid to dissolve it. Tomatoes become discolored. Although still edible, the fruits look unappetizing and this often is a deal breaker for kids and I sure wouldn’t want to gift any fruit to my friends that looked wormy or infested.

How can I control the leaf-footed bug? The question should really be, “How much exercise do you want to get?” You can chase after them all day long. The easiest way to protect your crops is to shake the nymphs off with a tap on the branch, flick them off with a finger, spray them away with water or my personal favorite…suck them up with a handheld vacuum! Attract birds, tiny (and harmless to humans) beneficial wasps and tachinid flies with native flowers and flowering herbs and shrubs. Allow spiders and assassin bugs to stay put or relocate them where you have a problem.

Leafhoppers Hopperburn? he leafhopper is another pest in the garden (like aphids) that suck the life out of plants. Leafhoppers are also capable of infecting plants with a pathogen.

The white leafhoppers in the image above are not living. These are the ghostly exoskeletons of the sharpshooter leafhopper. The pests go through five stages of growth and molting, and this process is called "instars". I’ve seen leafhoppers on my sunflowers, basil and loofah gourds. Their spit will turn leaf tips yellow, curly and brownish. Telltale signs of "hopperburn" include leaf spotting, curled sprouts and dying shoots. A quick remedy to interrupt their momentum is simple. Give your plant a strong stream of water on the top and undersides of leaves. To take a more proactive approach for the future, get rid of perennial weeds near your garden where they like to lay their eggs. Finally, if you want to significantly reduce the chances you’ll have leafhoppers, top plants with row covers before spring draws to a close. Make sure to remove the cover before blooms open for plants that require pollination.

Pea Maggots Just Me and a Maggot I recently sat down in a cozy corner of the garden to get to know the humble yet destructive pea maggot. Cindy: Thanks pea maggot for hanging out with me this morning. You look ravenous. Have you eaten? Pea Maggot: Nice to meet you Cindy. Yes, I’m hungry from all the burrowing. Cindy: Those are some impressive holes. How do you train for such a strenuous workout? Pea Maggot: Well, I was laid on a leaf in June so I had some time to build maggot muscle before hatching and going to work on your crops. Cindy: Yeah, my kids are kind of bummed that you ruined their peas. Pea Maggot: I only ate a few. Don’t exaggerate. At any rate, your kiddos shouldn’t wait so long to pick the peas. Also, when my Mom flew over your garden she saw you didn't have any cloth row covers to prevent her from laying her pinhead-sized eggs. It was an easy decision to land and lay. Cindy: I'm finding that covering crops really makes a difference in preventing all sorts of pests. Peas self-pollinate so I wouldn’t need to worry about blocking out bees. But I hate the way it looks. Got any suggestions? Pea Maggot: Sorry, you’ve got to decide what’s more important in the garden, looks or loot! It's time to stop, drop and roll, and spin a cocoon. GOTTA GO!

Praying Mantids Take a Bite out of Crime hey eat flies, crickets, garden pests and mosquitoes. Praying mantids are mezmerizing creatures. They mimic the sway of the wind to blend in, then in a fraction of a second pounce on their prey. Praying Mantids take care of many of our most annoying garden pests - aphids, grasshoppers, leafhoppers and even mice! This is one of the many reasons why I never spray chemicals in my garden, even hot pepper sprays. Those cayenne concoctions will harm pests and beneficial insects. Prayin Mantids – The Rest of the Story I would love to say praying mantids only target the bad guys of the garden. But that is far from true. Included in their catalog of canapés are butterflies, lacewings, lady beetles, lizards, spiders, tree frogs and even the occasional hummingbird! Despite its hunger for friendly creatures, I don’t bother praying mantids or their egg cases and I urge you to also let them be. Enjoy watching them hatch. Keep your eye out wherever tall grass and shady shrubs border your garden.

Praying Mantis Egg Case

Snails To be, or not to be - that is the question: hy do these pests exist? What good do they provide for the world? Like mosquitos I often wonder if we got rid of all snails, would the ecosystem or food chain suffer?

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Snails leave a trail of friction-reducing mucus as they navigate the bumps and turns in the garden. I often find them at dusk on the edge of my raised beds on their way to the “promised land”. When the weather gets unbearably hot, snails retreat to shady spots and curl up inside their shells to prevent dehydration. Finally, winter hits and the snails hibernate. I get a break. I’m sure they taste like fancy French food to toads and birds but I hate what they do to my garden. “Escar-NOT!“

Those desperate days are over. I’ve tested at least ten methods of getting rid of snails. And you might wonder: Which is my favorite?

There is no one perfect, chemical-free method for getting rid of snails. There are many techniques that significantly reduce the damage they cause.

Check out the chart I created on the next page. It gives you the pros and cons of ten of my favorite snail control techniques. This way you can decide what will work for you in your garden.

MOST POPULAR SNAIL CONTROL TECHNIQUES Choose one or more methods based on your preferences and garden setup. PROS CONS Snails are attracted to beer. Near susceptible plants, bury a medium-sized basin in the ground with the edge at soil level. Fill the basin with beer before dusk. Snails will fall into the beer. In the morning, Beer Trap remove the snails from the basin. Beer is a plentiful resource in some Continue to set out beer. Clean up funky residue. households. Snails love the cheap stuff. Dead snails need to be removed. Coffee grounds smell offensive to snails. By scattering grounds around your plants, you’ll drive snails Coffee elsewhere. Grounds It’s easy to gather lots of coffee grounds. Maybe not as reliable as the other methods. The chemical makeup of copper when contacted with a snail’s body, creates a shocking sensation. Snails will not cross over a barrier of copper. Copper Line the edge of your garden beds with copper stripping. Barrier Install the copper barrier once. Copper can be expensive and not readily available. Diatomaceous earth (DE) is finely crushed, fossilized shells. The soft underbody of a snail is no match for the rough, abrasive texture of DE. Dust the powder on the soil to injure snails as they move Dust with about. Food grade DE is safer than pool grade DE because it is not processed with chemicals. DE Extremely effective when it contacts the pest. DE dust can damage lungs. Wear a protective mask when applying DE. Snails love moist and dark conditions. They will be drawn to a wet garden at night. Water early in the Morning morning so that your garden will not be as welcoming after dark. Water No new skills required! Sometimes too busy to water in the morning. Remove weeds and spent plant matter from your garden. Position your compost bin well away from Clean Up your crops. Snails will take shelter under moist refuse. Take away their hiding places. Debris Removing decaying organic matter prevents Snails will find hiding places in the cleanest garden. snails and other pests from sticking around. The scent of certain herbs may help to confuse snails and the hope is that they will avoid the garden, especially if herbs provide a barrier wall. Do not plant mint directly in the ground. Bury potted mint Repel around your crops. with Herbs Companion plants enhances the garden. Maybe not as reliable as a snail block. Herbs will Flowering herbs will bring birds into the garden take room away from other crops and you may that eat snails. need to plant them closely to get good results. Timing is everything if you’re a hands-on pest picker. Choose a time of day when snails will be hiding in cool, shady spots and dispose of them in soapy water or relocate them far away from your plants. Hand At dusk they will be moving out in the open priming their stomachs for an evening feast. Pick Get the satisfaction of permanently removing Ongoing process requiring direct contact. Wear as many snails as you can find. gloves! Snails hide and group together in places that are cool, moist and dark. Prop a wooden board up on Board one side to create shelter for snails. Look under the board in the morning and dispose of snails. Easy to set up. Easy to scrape off. You’ve got to check it every day. Lure snails into a container using yeast. Sprinkle dome dry yeast inside a bottle to trap snails. Trap Easy to set up. Ugly, smelly and sometimes doesn’t work.

Squash Vine Borers Tunnel Vision here’s no bigger disappointment than to see your zucchini thriving and then suddenly the next day wilted and lifeless. Squash vine borers often ENTER your plants unnoticed.

Without knowing what this pest is really up to, you might mistake a squash vine borer for a harmless moth or fat, spotted wasp. The squash vine borer is a caterpillar that ruins your squash, pumpkins and gourds from the inside. Look for signs of damage mid-summer and take action. Single brown eggs are laid on stalks and vines. The larvae bore into the stems to feed and in the process leave a sawdust-like waste product on the ground. Look for that dust. The cream colored worms eat for 14-30 days until they start to pupate. Unlike other moths this one is brave enough to fly the unfriendly skies during the day. How do I prevent damage from squash vine borers? Get the eggs off the vine before they hatch. If you see signs that larva has entered your plant, split the stalk and look for the worms. Remove them and bury that portion of the vine to prevent further development and destruction of your plants. Compost spent plants to prevent future generations.

Stink Bugs & Squash Bugs

Thug Bugs hese bugs deserves to be hated. Like a bully that just won’t go away, “stinkers” and “squashers” take the fun out of the day.

I’ve snipped these bugs in half like a Samurai just because I hate them so much. They breed among the vines. If you can find their eggs on the undersides of leaves you may be able to keep a step ahead.

What is the difference between stink bugs and squash bugs? Stink bugs and squash bugs are often mistaken for each other. However, as you can see in the images above, they each have their own distinct look. The stink bug is wider and bulkier than the flat-shaped squash bug. More often, I’ve mistaken the squash bug for a leaf-footed bug. Once I realized that squash bugs do not have leaf-like flaps on their hind legs, it became a lot easier to distinguish the two. You can see pictures of the assassin bug and leaf-footed bug earlier in the book. Stink bugs do give off a stench when disturbed. Squash bugs only release odor if crushed. In both cases, it’s best to capture them and dispose of them in a bag in the garbage.

What kind of damage do stink bugs and squash bugs cause? For the most part, stink bugs and squash bugs feed on different crops. Stink bugs seek out tomatoes and beans where squash bugs seek out cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and melons. After these pests suck the nutrients and water out of the leaves, foliage looks distressed, wilts and even turns from yellow to black if overrun. Small seedlings can die under an assault.

What is the best method for getting rid of stink bugs and squash bugs? Trashy gardens encourage these pests to fester. When vines have wilted they must be removed and composted or buried deeply to prevent the bugs from overwintering in the debris. Early in the season, inspect plants for eggs and adults, and destroy them immediately. To trap them try a simple wooden board. Set a few slightly elevated planks around the garden and inspect underneath in the morning for pests.

Squirrels Cute or Destructive? armints like chipmunks, groundhogs, mice, rabbits and squirrels do serious damage in the garden. When we were young, we thought these critters were cute. Now that we know the truth, it’s hard to look at them same way ever again. Chicken wire is your best friend. Repeat after me, “Chicken wire is my best friend.” You cannot control what your neighbors do. If they feed the squirrels, move to the next town. It’s time to construct barriers to protect your garden. Do not invest in chemical sprays or ground treatments. Why risk contaminating your soil and groundwater? A simple fencing system will save your garden. Make sure it has a roof and the edges are buried a few inches deep. See the cages I created to keep deer out earlier in the book.

NATURAL PEST CONTROL METHODS FOR SMALL VARMINTS Test these ideas out in your garden to see which ones do the job. Easily construct above ground cages made from bendable wire fencing. Consider FENCE burying fencing flat under the bottom of your garden beds too to keep groundhogs and other burrowing pests out. Use gloves, wire cutters and pliers to bend over sharp edges. If my daughter wasn’t highly allergic to cats, we might have a few to take care of the PREDATORS rodents on our property. Barn owls will take care of business. Research how to construct simple owl houses and lift at least one near your garden area. Motion sensor lights and motion activated sprinklers surprise intruders and scare them ANNOYANCES away. Some folks have luck with hot pepper sprays but I’m not a fan because they can harm beneficial insects. Homemade garlic repellent spray is worth a try.

Tent Caterpillars MOTHRA! GODZILLA! RUN! ent caterpillars can defoliate small trees in a short time. Two to five generations occur each year. Don’t bother with chemicals! Inside this thick web-like cocoon is a group of up to 600 hairy, yellow tent caterpillars hatched from one white mommy moth. They take about 50 days to pupate and feed on foliage. That explains why the mom chose the spot where small leafy branches got stuck in the chain links.

Peel open the web and treat birds to a yummy snack. ...

Two generations occur on pecan trees, one in May through June and another during July and August. Nursery trees are usually attacked in September and October. Maybe not a big threat in your home garden, but a fascinating one!

Tomato Hornworms Tainted Love ornworms may be my FAVORITE garden pest. The moment I see the moth or one of the plump caterpillars I get butterflies in my stomach. Crazy, how these creatures can be so beautiful but hurt us so bad.

Hornworm eggs deposited by a moth, only take two to three days to hatch. The larvae start off real small. They molt their skins in five cycles, growing fatter and fatter until they reach 4-5 inches long at maturity. This takes a mere two weeks! Once they’ve reached their prime and eaten their fill of your heirloom tomatoes, they’re on a mission to pupate. “Baby, Baby, Where Did Our Love Go?”

The eyes along the side of the caterpillar and the horn in the rear are just for show to scare off birds and other predators.

Once the hornworm reaches maturity, its poop pellets start to resemble tiny grenades. Inspect the undersides of leaves.

If you find a hornworm, pull it off the plant and throw it away or leave it where the birds can snatch it up. When the caterpillars get beefy, it is a challenge to remove them off the plant. Tug really hard. Their feet are like suction cups. It will feel like you’re pulling apart hook n’ loop! Damage. Plants attacked by hornworms look stubby. Entire stems will be picked clean and tomatoes and other fruit will look like squirrels munched at them.

A Groovy Way to Detect Hornworms

We have scorpions where I live. They glow in the dark when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) black light. The UV light reacts with proteins in the scorpion’s exoskeleton as light is projected back at us in a form we can see.

What we discovered is that many species of plants, animals and insects fluoresce (glow a teal color) when exposed to black light. One of the most exciting discoveries was that tomato hornworms light up just like scorpions.

Friday night family scorpion hunt! WARNINGS! If you have venomous snakes and spiders in your garden area be careful. Wear safety goggles just in case the light shines in your eyes unexpectedly. Ultraviolet light can be damaging at high strengths. Safety goggles may also come in handy when moths and other flying insects whizz toward the light source! Good luck with that!

Other Objects that Fluoresce Under UV Light You may not want to put the black light down. Check out this list of items that will glow under UV light.

 Currency security strips and white paper.  Arthropods such as scorpions, spiders, centipedes, millipedes and crustaceans AND THEIR POOP AND BODILY FLUIDS.  Animal bodily fluids and excrement.  Plastics.  Minerals and gems such as fluorite, ruby, diamond and opal (need a UV light with shorter wavelengths for best viewing – more costly).  Flowers and plants such as lichens and heads of ornamental cabbage.  Foods such as milk, boxed macaroni and cheese powder, energy drinks, brown spots on bananas and cooking oils.  Body parts such as teeth and bodily fluids.  Personal care products such as deodorants and petroleum jelly.  Chemicals and cleaning products such as fragrance sprays, fabric softeners, whiteners, laundry detergent, floor cleaner and household ammonia.

Raise a Hawk from a Caterpillar Watch a Tomato Hornworm Pupate into the Sphynx Moth! .

Before you throw hornworms in a bucket of soapy water, consider adopting one as a pet. Watch it burrow into the soil and pupate, then emerge as the majestic sphinx moth, otherwise known as the hawk moth, and sometimes mistaken for a hummingbird. Find a Hornworm Hornworms pose a challenge to catch because they are camouflaged so well. Look for signs that they’ve infested your plants. Their poop looks like dark green or black balls.

Create a Home for your Hornworm Prepare a deep container with a clean, chemical free medium. You can use potting soil, peat moss, or shredded paper towel or newspaper - at least four inches deep. Place the hornworm on the surface and sit the container in a cool and shady spot where it will remain undisturbed. Add a few leaves to its new home just in case it needs more food before it starts to dig. It might be best to cover the container to ensure the hornworm doesn’t escape – just make sure it allows air in.

Watch it Burrow If you catch the caterpillar making its way underground, you’re in for a treat. They turn a lighter color, almost translucent as they surge forward and backward to drill the hole. They’ll stay underground for 20-30 days to build a hard burgundy colored, tough cocoon to protect the developing moth. If you disrupt the hornworm after it burrows into the soil it may not pupate. Want to take a peek before it changes into a moth? Wait at least ten days before searching carefully through the contents of the container.

Enjoy studying the pupa. Kids will be grossed out and amused! I admit, I was too the first time! Return it after a few minutes to finish its development. As an option you could build cardboard casings with air flows for each pupa out of paper towel or toilet paper tubes. Or use party or paper cups for each pupa if you have a group of them. Get Ready for Take Off A good place to store the pupa for a few weeks is in the bottom drawer of your refrigerator or somewhere cool. It could take a month for the pupa to transform into the “hawk moth” so be ready. Check on it every day. They are nocturnal and will seek out freedom of flight after the sun goes down.

Torpedo Bugs Torpedo No Trouble t’s amazing what you can find in your backyard! This is a torpedo bug, named for the nymph’s ability to propel itself up to two feet! Also known as the green planthopper, it is often mistaken for a leaf. The torpedo bug migrated from Australia in the late 1800's and spread to all the Hawaiian Islands and then to other parts of the world. Adults feed on stems (sunflower in the image) and nymphs suck on the leaves. A pest worth a peek. Look closer. It’s got pink eyes and a stich-like red trim around its aerodynamic perimeter.

Don’t worry too much about the torpedo bug. There are natural predators that keep it under control.

Wasps Prevention and Some Pros here are beneficial parasitic wasps that help reduce pest populations and there are the stinging type of wasps that drive some people into freakish fits. Common wasps and yellow jackets usually do not sting unless threatened. Realize a few yellow jackets can be beneficial as pollinators. However, if there are several wasps circling at ground level or near a tree on your property, there may be a nest nearby and serious injury to you can occur if their home is threatened. If the concentration of activity is in a high traffic area or in a spot that could be dangerous for you or your family, call a professional service – especially if anyone is allergic to wasp stings. It is sometimes difficult to tell the difference between honeybees and wasps - just another reason to call in an expert. The best time of day to deal with wasps is in the evening when they are resting. The best time of year is springtime when the colony is small and there is no queen yet to protect. Towards the end of the season the population of male wasps skyrockets along with their sense of duty to protect the queen. For folks that live in cooler climates, freezing temperatures will kill off a colony naturally. If you are unable to wait for winter, do not experience cold weather, or are unsure of how to get rid of a wasp colony, again call a professional service.

Good to Feel Blue Taking a break from the vegetable garden, if you tend to have wasps in unfortunate places such as over the patio, consider a trick popular in the Southern United States: paint the ceiling “Haint” Blue. "Haints” in folklore are restless ghosts of the dead that could not pass through water. The tradition of fending off haints lives on and you will notice lots of porch ceilings are painted with some variation of blue. It looks historic and extends the feeling of daylight for those rocking the afternoon away. Many believe the blue color fools wasps and birds into thinking it is the sky. They go somewhere else to make their nests. Instead of shooting wasps with the 50-foot laser beam of chemical death, try a “spirited” shade of blue. “Haint Blue” Haint is not an actual paint color that you’ll find on a chip at the store. You are given the creative license to pick a blue tone that mimics the color of the sky. The following colors work well as a “Haint Blue”: Benjamin Moore - Artic Blue, Constellation, Crystal Springs, Mystical Blue, Palladian Blue and Polar Sky. Sherwin Williams - Hazel, Lauren’s Surprise, Pool Blue, Waterscape and Atmospheric. Behr - Americana Blue and Robin’s Egg Blue Valspar - Blue Raindrop, Journal Book and Tropical Bay

Whiteflies Ghosts of the Garden uzzy white swirls are a sure sign you have whiteflies. Whiteflies are most famous for the crazed way they flutter in clouds when disturbed. If there is an infestation, leaves will turn yellow or seem dried out. Like aphids, whiteflies get protection from ants because they excrete tasty honeydew. If you notice a dark, sticky substance on leaves, look closer for whiteflies. The easiest method of control is removal of infected leaves. This reduces the number of pests so that natural predators can work to get the upper hand.

Learn another method of control by solving this puzzle.

Did you get it? Here’s a clue…

For the answer to the puzzle and an explanation, please follow this link to the back of the book.

Ghostfly Ghostfly spiraling, Attract parasitic wasps Tiny moth marked with brown. Whitefly predator. Adults leave white swirls Plant dill and fennel, As they strut around. Mini flowers like aster.

They’ll flutter away Cover your crops, Unlike aphids that drop. But let light shine through. Don’t confuse the two Vacuum the bugs Pests you want to stop. In the early morning dew.

Whiteflies suck No need for insecticides, Life out of leaves. Or anything they sell. Excrete honeydew, Spray the undersides of leaves, Transmit disease. Water works just as well.

Prune infestations, A garden is a balance Throw in the trash. Of nature and human care. Keep away from compost, Keep chemicals away, Prevent a rotting rash. Enjoy the tasty fare.

Worms Wigglers Work omposting with worms is not as popular as it should be! Worm castings contain trace minerals that increase microbial activity in the soil and enhance plant growth. Worm poop helps plants thrive. Here’s how…

Healthy soil, as many of us understand, is the key to healthy plants. The ideal soil drains well but at the same time holds moisture. To achieve this, it must contain lots of organic matter. This organic matter stimulates biological activity in the soil. Microbes and other life systems break down the organic matter and produce nutrients that plants are more than happy to absorb. Friendly soil makes it possible for plants to fight off pests and disease more effectively. How does composting with worms work in simple terms? Basically, worms are kept in a large container along with lots of bedding materials such as cardboard and dried leaves. The bedding is moistened to allow worms to move about freely. Food scraps are added in between layers of bedding. The worms eat the bedding and the food scraps and release castings. Castings are harvested and added to the garden.

Composting with worms is called “vermicomposting”.

Are all worms the same when it comes to home composting? When I was young, I spent many evenings with my Dad searching the lawn for worms for fishing bait. Earthworms and “night crawlers” are not fit for home composting. They are not as efficient at breaking down kitchen scraps and other waste. Red wigglers are a different species of worm well-suited for the job. They also may be the most inexpensive and low maintenance pet on earth! No need to purchase special feed, build a coop or take them to the veterinarian. They don’t even need toys to fend off boredom. And above all: When they poop, it’s a good thing! Where do I find red wigglers? Many garden centers and nurseries carry red wigglers. You can also buy them online. Look for local sources to avoid shipping costs and stress on the worms.

Coming Soon

The EASY Guide to Composting with Worms makes it simple to get started. Learn the secrets that make all the difference. No smelly worm bins or worms trying to escape. Keep this link handy and visit our bookstore when you’re ready to start vermicomposting. You’ll get the inside scoop on how to keep worms as well as how to use worm castings wisely in the garden.

Click on the image above or this link to visit the Bookstore and Digital Library

How does a worm’s body work? Check out my “pool noodle” turned worm model!

MOUTH: It’s like an elephant’s trunk and is technically named the same, a proboscis. HEARTS: Worms “feel hard”. A red wiggler has 5 “hearts”. REPRODUCTIVE ORGANS: There are two, both female and male. How convenient! CROP: This is where the food is held before it gets ground up, somewhat like a stomach. GIZZARD: With the help from gritty stuff that the worm ingests, the gizzard turns what the worm eats into mush. INTESTINES: Food needs to travel through the body and there are two main intestinal tracts that transfer nutrients and waste toward the grand finale. COCOON MAKER (Clitellum): The adult worm releases baby cocoons from the wide band on the worm’s body. They are covered in mucus. Newly born worms do not have a cocoon maker at birth. Amazingly, it only takes a few weeks to develop and the worm is ready to make more worms! TUSHY: OK, we know what this is – the anus. This is where the worm castings exit the worm. At school I use raisins to simulate poop. That’s right. Now if I could just automate my model worm…

Red Wiggler Reproduction Have you ever heard of feeding a pregnant lady spicy food to induce labor?

Red wiggler worms are ready to mate only six weeks after birth! Two worms move next to each other and exchange sperm and egg cells through a band-like area called a clitellum. We like to call the clitellum the “cocoon maker”! The cocoon maker secretes mucus to make the egg case, protecting the sperm and eggs.

The sperm in the cocoon maker fertilizes the eggs and when ready, the end of the cocoon seals up as the cocoon slips off the worm.

Each cocoon has as many as 20 eggs in it. But after three weeks of incubating maybe four will survive.

Worm cocoons are like mood rings. They sometimes change color! Before birth the cocoon may look yellowish.

After birth it turns darker ranging from deep ochre to a burgundy red.

Answer to the WHEEL OF WHITEFLY GAME:

Make your own yellow sticky traps. First get control of the ants if you have any on your vegetables. Also remove dust that can protect whiteflies. It’s easy to paint small wood boards bright yellow. Secure these around the garden. You can attach them to stakes in the ground. Place trap close to plants because whiteflies do not fly long distances. Make a trap for every two plants you want to treat. Other options include covering cardboard covered with yellow paper or plastic. Techniques to make the traps sticky: Apply a sticky substance such as tape, petroleum jelly or cooking oil.  Wrap packing tape backwards around the yellow board so the sticky side faces out. Point the sticky side away from the sun.  Mix up equal parts of petroleum jelly and detergent. Clean often with soap and water and reapply.  Clean and recoat surfaces often.

Did we miss one of your favorite pests or pollinators? An eBook can only be so long. We’ll create a Volume II soon. In the meantime, enjoy looking around in your garden to see what kinds of creatures pop up. You might be surprised at what you can observe in your own backyard. Ensure your garden is grown chemical-free. This creates a well-balanced ecosystem where the “bad bugs” stay in check. And no matter if it is a friend or foe, it’s always fascinating! Thank you for purchasing this book! Feel free to leave your reviews or suggestions for Volume II at the book page on the Home Grown Fun website. Other recommended titles from Home Grown Fun:

50 Homemade Fertilizers and Soil Amendments eBook

Make your own organic homemade fertilizers for FREE! It's easy with materials found at home or nearby. Get the science and the stories behind why these materials benefit the garden. “50 Homemade Fertilizers and Soil Amendments is the ultimate collection of EASY, ORGANIC recipes for EDIBLE GARDENS using recycled materials. There is no other reference out there that covers as many materials and techniques under one cover.” Click on the title or image to visit the Bookstore. Go to our bookstore and digital library on Home Grown Fun for more eBooks and Digital Downloads.