Apr 18cover.indd 1 A publication of the Community Services Center Centered on TAIPEI Vol. 18 2018 APR 2018/3/25 下午10:12 | 07 Apr 18 cover.indd 2 2018/3/25 下午10:12 CONTENTS April 2018 volume 18 issue 7

CSC COMMUNITY From the Editors 5 TAS 10 Center Gallery 6 April Activity Highlights 7 AROUND TAIWAN Calla Lily Festival 8 Flats, Rats and Cats: Book Clubs: April 8 A Little in Tainan 11 Kiddies Korner 9 Photowalking Through Taipei's History 13 CSC Business Classified 31 PROFILE Publisher Community Services Center, Taipei The Gentle Art of Quilling 16 Editor Suzan Babcock Co-editor Richard Saunders Advertising Manager Naomi Kaly ARTS Magazine Email [email protected] Tel 02-2836-8134 International Ceramic Artists Flock to Yingge 18 Fax 02-2835-2530

Community Services CULTURE Center Editorial Panel Siew Kang, Fred Voigtmann Eunuchs of the Imperial Court 21 Printed by Farn Mei Printing Co., Ltd. 1F, No. 102, Hou Kang Street, Shilin OUTLOOK District, Taipei Tel: 02-2882-6748 Fax: 02-2882-6749 Conflict Revolution: NOW CAGE Your Conflict 22 E-mail: [email protected]

Centered on Taipei is a publication of the Community Services Center, FOOD & DRINK 25, Lane 290, Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 6, Tianmu, Taipei, Taiwan Tel: 02-2836-8134 Falling in Love with your Toaster Oven 24 fax: 02-2835-2530 The Fattest Chinese People We Know 25 e-mail: [email protected] Dazhi Feng Yuan 27 Correspondence may be sent to the editor at coteditor@ communitycenter.org.tw. Freelance writers, photographers and illustrators are welcome to contact the editor to discuss editorial and graphic assignments. Your talent will find a home with us! To the Top of Taiwan (and back) in a Day 28 Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not Wannian Gorge 30 be reproduced without the written consent of the copyright owner.

COT is printed on FSC certified 100% post-consumer recycled fiber. The paper is certified in accordance with the rules of the Forest Stewardship Council which promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world's forests. https://ic.fsc.org/

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 3 2018/3/26 下午7:44 TIGER TOTS PRESCHOOL A LOVING PLACE FOR LEARNING

Crown’s service offerings include: Everyone needs to know why... We’ll help your whole family prepare for the big adventure.

PRE-K AND KINDERGARTEN (LOCATED INSIDE TAS) TIGGER'S(PRE-2S), 2S AND 3S PLAYGROUPS (TIAN YU CAMPUS) North American Curriculum Gardening Qualified Instructors Fun and Educational Daily Activities Low Student/Teacher Ratios Field Trips Gymnastics and Music Class Fun After School Enrichment Classes Go knowing Engaging Outdoor Playgrounds Mandarin Playgroups

We’d love to introduce you to our diverse and incredibly special community of learners! Please call to arrange a visitation. CR ad Euroview AprMay.indd 1 22/3/2016 3:40:25 PM

TYPA MAIN OFFICE: (02)2873-1815 www.typa.org.tw

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 4 2018/3/25 下午10:15 COVER IMAGE: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, known colloquially as Chinese hibiscus or rose or Hawaiian hibiscus, FROM Please send email submissions, comments, and feedback to is a species of tropical hibiscus, a flowering [email protected]. plant in the Hibisceae tribe of the family THE Malvaceae, native to East Asia. by Kenneth Dickson EDITORS

For more information, please go to our website at www.communitycenter.org.tw April is upon us again, and in Taipei that means the last of the COT TEAM cold snaps of winter should be over, and we can enjoy a month or two of spring-like weather before the build-up to the summer begins! It’s a great time to head out exploring, and in a as fascinating and varied as Taipei, it’s always wise to take a camera. In his article this month, Kenneth Dickson suggests Suzan Babcock Richard Saunders Naomi Kaly KC Editor Co-editor Advertising Manager Graphic Designer three parts of the city especially worth exploring through coteditor@ [email protected] naomi@communitycenter. graphicdesigntaipei. the lens of a camera, and extends an invite to join his group, communitycenter.org.tw org.tw weebly.com Photowalkers. Further afield, Lennie Pepper does some urban exploration in historic Tainan, Taiwan’s old capital, and makes some unusual discoveries, and Daniel Cunningham meets up with two talented ceramics artists presently living and creating in Taiwan’s capital

Zee Dlamini Nomita Kavra Gupta Sydney Ko of ceramics, Yingge. Editorial intern Editorial intern Editorial intern For those who like their explorations to challenge them physically as well as mentally, Taiwan’s highest peak, Jade Mountain beckons. The annual snow should have cleared from WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTORS the peak as April arrives, making it a relatively easy ascent... Sue Babcock New Taipei City Yingge Ceramics unless attempted in one day, as Trent Jackson discovered when Manasvi Chawda Museum Daniel Cunningham Kamonchanok Panuwed he (successfully) scaled the mountain on a tough single-day Kenneth Dickson Lennie Pepper ascent. Wendy Evans Joseph Reilly Karen Farley Richard Saunders The plum rains may start wetting the enthusiasm for outdoor Nomita Kavra Gupta Rosemary Susa exploration as the month draws to an end, but this month we Trent Jackson TAS have plenty of ideas for things to do indoors too. There’s the Joan H. HungryinTaipei Grace Ting Janina Myronova Doreen Wang gentle (yet not very well-known) art of quilling, explained for us by enthusiastic (and expert) quiller, Manasvi Chawda, while Karen Farley gives us some tips on baking successfully in a toaster oven - a surprisingly effective substitute for the full-sized Pick COT up at: version in a city where ovens are still a relatively rare luxury. Uptown: Community Services Center, No. 25, Lane 290, Sec. 6, So whatever the weather, we hope this issue of Centered on Zhongshan North Rd. Taipei will give you some ideas on things to do both indoors Sprout – No. 33, Sec. 7, Zhongshan North Rd. and out. And don’t forget, you’re always welcome to come into George Pai’s Beauty – No. 14, Tienmu East Rd. Downtown: the Center for a chat, a cup of coffee, or simply to say hello! We Ooh Cha Cha – 207, Sec.2, Nanchang Rd. hope to see you soon. NakedFood – 22-1, Lane 160, Sec.1, Xingsheng South Rd. Samyama (Art) Co., Ltd. – 2F, No. 1, Lane 119, Sec.1, Daan Rd. Sue and Richard

Accountant Monica Cheng COMMUNITY SERVICES CENTER Activities Coordinator Rosemary Susa Assistant Activities Coordinator Undine Urbach The Community Services Center (CSC) is a non-profit foundation. CSC provides Coffee Mornings Coordinator John Imbrogulio outreach and early intervention through counseling, cross-cultural education and Cross-cultural Trainer Anne Jacquet life skills programs to meet the needs of the international community in Taipei. Communications Morgan Loosli CSC offers the opportunity to learn, volunteer, teach and meet others. Check out our website www.communitycenter.org.tw and drop by The Center to chat with us Events Coordinator Shan Lee about our programs. You can also email us at [email protected]. Mandarin Chinese Teacher Gloria Gwo Systems Manager Lee Ming Yeh

Director Adam McMillan Volunteers Miyuki Boice, Daniel Chan, John Imbrogulio, Anna Loose, Leslie McFarlane, Office Manager Grace Ting John McQuade, Gloria Peng, Emmy Shih

Counselors I-wen Chan, Katherine Chang, Hui-shiang Chao, Benefactors Bai Win Antiques Jung Chin, Chiao-Feng Chung, Cerita Hsu, Carol Lee, European Chamber of Commerce Miranda Lin, Emilie Ma, Kuang-Shan Wan Grand Hyatt Taipei

Consultants Wendy Evans and Michael Mullahy Premier Sponsors Concordia Consulting ICRT Counseling Admin. Joanne Chua San Fu Global

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A percentage of all proceeds of items sold at the Gallery will go APRIL 2018 to the Center. Please remember that by displaying your items or shopping at the Gallery, you will be helping the Center to continue GALLERY to provide valuable services to the international community.

ADORNMENTS OF BLESSINGS FROM BALANCE CHEN CHAO PAO’S PAINTING HEALTH INTERNATIONAL COLLECTION Handcrafted in the Holy Land, these unique religious The Community Services Center items, crafted in Israel, are made of natural stone is pleased to exhibit paintings and wood. They are suitable as home decorations or by the renowned artist Chen as personal accessories. Chao Pao. On loan from Faye Angevine’s Baiwin collection, SAHAR SHAIKH — AN EXQUISITE INDIAN Chen is recognized for combining COLLECTION OF JEWELRY his ancient Chinese splash brush Sahar’s exquisite collection of fine Indian jewelry technique and Western painting features pieces from the regions of Rajasthan and skills. These techniques are a new Gujarat that are individually crafted. Special Kundan form of expression and subject stonework, silver and stone pendants, earrings, matter for ink and water paintings. bangles, bracelets and necklaces in turquoise, coral, His work is highly sought after at pearl, amethyst, onyx, marcasite and garnet are auctions worldwide. perfect gifts for those seeking fine jewelry.

KP KITCHEN TAIWAN KP Kitchen Taiwan is spicing up Tianmu kitchens with our tasty range of North American-style DIY Spice Mixes. Make dinner planning easy with our authentic taco, chili, BBQ rub, pizza spices and more. Or if you are in the mood for baking, try our DIY baking mixes, including chocolate brownies, sugar cookies, muffins and pancakes. All mixes are freshly made in Taiwan and come with simple English/Chinese instructions. Follow us on KP Kitchen Taiwan on Facebook for more information.

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 6 2018/3/25 下午10:15 CSC APRIL ACTIVITY HIGHLIGHTS Writer's Workshop: The short personal essay by the Pakistani Cooking: Delicious stalls. We will begin at the Trouble with the Truth: How end of four weeks. Paratha Wraps and Rolls neighborhood's bustling to Write Our Nonfiction Friday, April 20; 10 am – 12 open-air market, then carry Stories noon on with stops at some of Wednesdays, April 18 and Instructor: Asma Ahmed the many fascinating local 25; May 2 and 9; 9:30 am – $1,200 area shops. Sip tea at a little 11:30 am Do you often find yourself teashop; shop for lanterns, Instructor: Doreen Wang wondering what to make bamboo baskets, and baking $2,400 for a simple, but tasty supplies; explore a Chinese From “fake news” to reality Taoyuan County: Daxi Old dinner? Join Asma for a herb medicine store; and television, we live in an age Street, Lake Cihu and the Pakistani wrap and roll class hunt for great gifts at some where the truth is, perhaps, Garden of Generalissimos using paratha bread, local of the area's trendy new more hotly contested than Thursday, April 19; 8:30 am scallion pancakes and pita, stores. There will be time for ever. What is truth, what – 3:30 pm all easily available at the a short break at either a local is fiction, and what lies in Guide: Richard Saunders market. Learn to make three rice noodle restaurant, or at between? How do those $1,400 delicious fillings: chicken one of the lovely little cafes of us who want to tell our Daxi was once an important tikka, chicken malai and (food is not included in the own true stories glean hub for trading indigo and spicy potato masala, served tour fee). lessons from this time? tea, but is now best known with mint yoghurt sauce, This workshop will examine for several very fine old tamarind sauce, garlic dip Very Vietnamese: Specialties the problematic nature of streets, and as the final and kachumber salad. So from Hanoi telling the truth in creative resting place of former ROC easy and so delicious! Friday, April 27; 10 am – 12 nonfiction storytelling. Using President Chiang Kai-shek. noon the short personal essay as We start this tour at Lake Instructor: Khanh Phan our primary medium, we will Cihu, where Kai-shek and his Join Khanh on a cooking explore ways to faithfully and son Chiang Ching-kuo lie in trip to Hanoi and learn artfully recount our stories state in a pair of impressive how to prepare a delicious as honestly as we can, with mausoleums connected by Vietnamese meal suitable the knowledge that truth a 1.8 km walkway. Next we for the warm weather. The is always blended with our will visit the unusual Garden main dish will be bun cha, memories, opinions, and of Generalissimos, a grassy a dish made internationally perceptions. Students will park studded with several famous by Barack Obama receive exercises to spark hundred busts and statues Beyond Dihua Street: and Anthony Bourdain, new writing and generate of the late CKS. This is a An Insider's Tour of the who both fell in love with it new work. We will look at photo op not to be missed! Dadaocheng Area during visits to Hanoi. The established and emerging We will finish with a stroll Tuesday, April 24; 10 am – main ingredients of bun authors (such as James Frey around historic Daxi town. 1:30 pm cha are grilled pork and rice and Catherine Kapphahn), Time permitting, there are Guide: Jennifer Tong vermicelli noodles, which and take turns reading and little shops and small cafes $700 are served with a delicious constructively providing where we can take a short Join Jennifer, a lifetime broth and tasty fresh greens. feedback for each other’s break before returning to resident of the Dadaocheng Paired with our bun cha (and writing. The course aims Taipei. Wear comfortable area of Taipei, for a fun perfect for summer) will to support students in shoes; bring a packed lunch, insider's tour that takes you be fresh Vietnamese-style generating new writing, with and sun/rain protection as beyond the fabric market spring rolls with shrimp and the goal of completing one required. and usual Dihua Street area pork. Ngon Qua! OTHER EVENTS

RED ROOM APRIL EVENTS Address: TAF Library, 2/F #177, Sec. 1, MEMORIAL DAY CEREMONY 6th – DIY Pottery Workshop: Friday @ Jianquo South Rd. Taipei – red.room. May 28, noon 5:00 PM Sake class; 8:00 PM Beer Stein [email protected] Democrats Abroad Taiwan will be 7th – Saturday @ 5:00 PM Beer Stein honoring American servicemen and class; 8:00 PM Sake class DEMOCRATS ABROAD TAIWAN PICNIC women with a Memorial Day ceremony 8th – Sunday@ 4 PM Visual Dialogue April 8, noon at Taipei Prison wall. There will be 15th – Sunday@5 PM Open Studio: Come join us at Da An Park for a relaxed readings, music, and a lunch gathering What’s in a Name? Artists Workshop afternoon of socializing and eats. This to follow. 26th – Thursday@7 PM – Concert with event is a great opportunity to meet For updated information on all Patricia Sands, Soprano and Richard new friends, catch up with old ones, and DEMOCRATS ABROAD TAIWAN events, Saunders, Piano get to know fellow Democrats. follow us on Facebook: @DATWN

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APRIL SPECIAL EVENT

The 2018 Calla Lily Festival in Zhuzihu, Yangmingshan (Until April 29th)

ABOUT 3. Taipei Railway Station 4. MRT Jiantan Station – Take any of According to the Department of (1)Take route 126 Flower Festival the following buses to Yangmingshan Economic Development (DOED), Taipei Express to Yangmingshan Second Second Parking Lot: 109, 111, 126, City Government, the main attraction Parking Lot and transfer to route and 127. Transfer to route 128, 129, at the Calla Lily Festival will be concerts 128, 129, S8, S9 or 131 to Zhuzihu. S8, S9 or 131 to Zhuzihu. offered by participating calla lily farms. (2)Take route 260 to Yangmingshan 5. Gongyuan Road (near Taipei Main In addition to exploring the Zhuzihu Terminal and walk to Yangming- Station) – Take bus 1717 to Zhuzihu. area on your own, DOED is working shan Transfer Station to take route with the staff of Beitou Farmers’ 128, 129, or 131 to Zhuzihu. Association to offer guided tours on weekends and holidays during the festival period. On tour days, there will be one tour in the morning and one in the afternoon. Participants will travel to various scenic attractions in Zhuzihu and elsewhere in Yangmingshan, enjoy flower-picking, great food, and other activities. To ensure smooth traffic conditions, as usual the city government will implement traffic control on major roads and avenues in the vicinity on weekends and holidays. For more information, please visit the event’s Chinese language website (www.callalily.com.tw) or call Beitou Farmers’ Association at (02) 2892-4185, ext. 540.

TRAVEL INFORMATION Please note: Buses 128 and 129 only run during the Calla Lily Festival. Other services run year-round. 1. MRT Beitou Station – Take route S9 or 129 to Zhuzihu. 2. MRT Shipai Station – Take route S8 or 129 to Zhuzihu.

COT April 2018 Morning Book Club Selection The Glass Castle by Jeanette Wells will be the Morning Book Club’s April selection. For meeting dates, times & location, contact: [email protected] COT April 2018 Evening Book Club Selection Justice: What’s the Right Thing To Do? by Michael Sandel will be the Evening Book Club’s April selection. For further information about meeting times and locations contact Lauren at: [email protected]

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 8 2018/3/26 下午7:42 KIDDIES KORNER Fun Activities for Kiddies

Here are some exciting new things to do this April with your little ones.

TEXT: NOMITA KAVRA GUPTA

WHAT WHY WHEN AND WHERE

Created by Belgian comic artist Peyo in Address: Chang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, Halls 2 and 3 WE’RE ALL SMURFS 1958, the cartoon strip The Smurfs is 21, Zhongshan South Road, Zhongzheng District EXHIBITION about a colony of small blue human-like MRT: Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall station (green/ creatures living in mushroom-shaped red lines) houses. Timeline: Until April 15 The exhibit features Peyo’s original Hours: 9 am – 6 pm (closed Tuesday) artwork (debuting in Taipei), as well as Fee: NT$280 (adults) NT$250 (children with a life-sized Smurf village, complete with Taiwanese ID over 3). Children under 3 or under mushroom houses and over seventy 90cm are free. Smurfs on display. Kids can join the Smurf https://www.kham.com.tw/application/UTK02/ School, where their creative skills can be UTK0201_.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=M03JNA0R&utm_sou exercised with different interactive craft rce=FB_Smurf _VAN1102 activities. https://www.goodlifetaipei.com/smurfs-exhibition- at-cks-memorial-hall

BITAN Bitan is a scenic area with a night market Address: Bitan Scenic Area, Xindian WATER FOUNTAIN SHOW and a waterfront lined with restaurants. MRT: Xindian station (green line) 2018 The New Taipei tourism authority has Timeline: Until April 30 introduced a world-class water show here Hours: 6 pm – 8:30 pm using high-pressure water jets that can https://www.facebook.com/watershowtaiwan/ reach up to thirty meters high, along with https://www.goodlifetaipei.com/bitan-water- the newest advances in technical lighting fountain-show/ and precision water nozzles. The shows run every thirty minutes, from 6 pm to 8:30 pm and feature music from a wide variety of both local and international artists.

INDIAN SPRING CARNIVAL India Taipei Association (ITA) is organizing Address: 1F Lobby, Taipei Main Station 2018 the India Spring Carnival 2018. The event Date: Saturday, April 14 offers Indian cuisine, shopping, henna, Hours: 11:30 am – 5:30 pm tourism and yoga information, cultural https://www.facebook.com/ITATW exhibits by Indian associations, a photo area, and amazing stage performances by various Indian and Taiwanese performers.

WELCOME TO CUTE QIAOHU Cute Tiger Island is a popular cartoon in Address: Buildings C and D, Huashan 1914 Creative ISLAND SPECIAL EXHIBITION Asia, and Huashan 1914 Creative Park is Park, 1, Bade Road holding a large-scale exhibition of Qiao MRT: Zhongxiao Xinsheng (blue/orange lines) Tiger and his friends: Kiki, Miu Miao and Timeline: Until April 8 Dole. Hours: 10 am – 6 pm (last admission at 5:30 pm) The exhibition is divided into five sections Phone: (02) 6616-9938 that include interactive activities, puzzles https://www.huashan1914.com/w/huashan1914/ and wonderful scenes of the Qiaohu index Island. http://www.mediasphere.com.tw/show/show/ Chiao-hu_exhibition_TW https://www.facebook.com/pg/Chiaohu.exhibition. TW/about/?ref=page_internal

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 9 2018/3/25 下午10:15 COMMUNITY | TAS Dr. Jacob Soll: Lessons on Accounting & Accountability

TEXT & IMAGE : TAS

r. Jacob Soll, this year’s executives of the European Commission. analysis and critical thinking.” Dr. Soll Joanna Nichols Visiting While at TAS, Dr. Soll taught also addressed parents as the keynote Scholar, left a lasting impact European History, World History, speaker at an evening presentation D on the Taipei American Principles of Business, Economics, during upper school college counseling School community. During his time U.S. History, Philosophy, International week. Building upon the ideals of Plato, on campus, Dr. Soll taught more than Relations, and a new Historical Archival with the belief that you get closer to thirty classes, spoke at upper school Research course at the Imperial goodness through study and learning assemblies, and gave two parent Archives at Academia Sinica. Fifteen for the sake of learning to better presentations. students in Grades 9-11 traveled with oneself, Dr. Soll discussed the history of Dr. Soll, Professor of History and Dr. Soll to Academia Sinica to view Western universities and the mission of Accounting at the University of historical documents; this special the modern university. Southern California, received a B.A. excursion provided a rare opportunity Dr. Soll described TAS students as from the University of Iowa, a Ph.D. that opened the door for TAS students “fantastic” and the culture at school as from Magdalene College, Cambridge to conduct further research among over “incredibly dynamic.” He encouraged all University, and a D.E.A. from the École 300,000 written treasures from China. students to pursue their passions and des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales In addition to interacting with told them, “The thing you love to do in Paris, . He has authored three students, Dr. Soll engaged parents will probably be what you are best at. books: Publishing "The Prince" (2005), on two occasions. His parent tea Your time on earth is very, very short, The Information Master (2009), and discussion, inspired by his bestselling and you need to enjoy what you’re The Reckoning (2014), which remains book The Reckoning and its implications doing.” He shared additional words of on the Taiwan bestseller list. He has for modern European financial markets, wisdom, “When in doubt, read a great also received numerous awards, provided timely and thoughtful insight book that challenges you.” including the 2005 Jacques Barzun on historical sustainable commercial Dr. Soll’s stay at TAS represents the Prize in Cultural History, a Guggenheim economies such as the Dutch Republic seventh installment of the Joanna Fellowship in 2009, and, in 2011, the in the 17th Century, when there Nichols Visiting Scholar program, prestigious MacArthur “Genius” Grant. was trust in society and widespread which is the result of the continuing, In addition to writing two new books, accounting literacy. He discussed how extraordinary generosity and vision of Dr. Soll works on public financial reform this contrasts with modern Western former TAS parent Mr. Kenny Cheng. The in Greece, Portugal, and the Eurozone culture where, “We don’t have cultural program brings relevant, distinguished, where he has personally advised the accountability; we have lost it. We and stimulating figures such as Dr. prime minister of Greece and members need a new culture of accounting and Soll to TAS each year to share singular of the finance ministry, as well as accountabilityusing the tools of insights and experiences with students.

10 APRIL 2018 www.communitycenter.org.tw

April 2018_p3-end.indd 10 2018/3/25 下午10:15 AROUND TAIWAN

Flats, Rats and Cats: A Little Urban Exploration in Tainan

TEXT & IMAGES : LENNIE PEPPER

he weather in Taipei this It didn’t take much for me to spot a the demolition and/or development of winter, as everyone living couple of clearly uninhabited blocks of the site and could give some info on the there will know, has been houses while cycling along Dongning place. As I propped up my bike, they T god-awful. As if the constant Road, one of the main routes to and all studied me curiously. I broke the ice humidity, incessant raindrops and from Tainan railway station. The first with a quick ni-hao and a nod, which general dampness weren’t quite was a well-preserved stone bungalow they all warmly returned in unison. I enough of a nuisance, a painfully icy with the classic, old-style turquoise casually and innocently poked my head wind has been terrorizing the northern doors and window frames that we know over the top of the walls, sneaking a population, transforming our jaded and love. A couple of dogs in the front peek at the ruins, and took a couple of tears into ice cubes. For this reason, garden saw me coming and decided to quick shots on my phone. At this point it seemed like an inspired idea for me slink away with guilty faces, as though I realized the conversation between to catch a bus south for a few days. they’d already been told to leave the three had moved on to me, which According to the weather reports, not several times. My attempts at finding an I think continued for a few minutes only did Tainan have no rain, but I might open door proved futile, although there as I wandered up and down the alley even be lucky enough to catch some didn’t seem to be much of interest looking for decent photo angles. The sun too. Plus Tainan rocks, and I fancied inside after my nosey peek through the younger man said hello again. riding around on a bicycle for a few mosquito screens; just some plastic or “Are you looking for something?” days. In the event the weather reports glass cases on pedestals: the kind you’d He seemed flattered at my were bang on the money, so I had a see at an exhibition or museum. Maybe enthusiastic reply about the buildings, pleasantly warm(er) break from Taipei the nearby school is using it as a storage and when I said they are my favorite for a few days. room. reason for coming to Tainan. The Next I saw an intriguing narrow old man chimed in at this point, also alleyway sandwiched between the speaking excellent English: school basketball courts and a row of “Almost all abandoned now. But old, dilapidated stone houses as I rolled some people still live here, they don’t past, but initially decided against going want to move.” in because there were three people He explained that they were a block standing at the far end, chatting. Then I of dormitories that belonged to the thought: what’s the harm in going down nearby National Cheng Kung University. there and taking a few pictures over the There are no plans to refurbish or even wall? So I did. The three consisted of a redevelop them, so these old places young couple speaking to an older man are being left to rot. However, even the in a fluorescent jacket. This I mistook empty houses aren’t strictly abandoned. for a hi-visibility vest, and therefore A pounce of cats (yes, that’s the assumed that he would be involved in collective noun for them, apparently)

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 11 2018/3/25 下午10:15 AROUND TAIWAN

are the new owners of these neglected cool tiling and a continuation of the icons of the city, making full use of any cat theme: loads and loads of bowls available space. Crumbling wooden of water and cat food left inside the beam above? There’s a cat on it. Old old buildings. One of them stank to sink clinging onto the wall for dear life? high heaven before I’d even walked Cat in it. Rusty bucket on the floor? You through the door, just as I noticed get the idea. It’s normally a potential an XXL rat hunched over one of the issue when exploring places like this bowls, thoroughly enjoying some poor that you might run into a pack of stray kitty cat’s lunch. It looked at me in – and often territorial – dogs, but cats? that cocksure fashion that scavenger It’s definitely a first in my book. After animals do when you catch them eating researching a little into the immediate something, as if to say “what, human?” area, pretty much all I could find out is I gave the door a quick rap and he that there is a lady that lives in one of scuttled off. After that I decided not to these houses that runs some sort of cat venture inside. Who knows how many adoption agency. That would explain the are in there? And I doubt the smell will vast feline population, then. Anyway, get any better as I go into the house. No I asked the old gent if it would be a thank you. problem to have a look around inside No more than a minute’s walk from would be the same so passed up the the buildings, to which he obligingly Casa de la Rat are yet more rows of opportunity to have a look around. The responded: “As long as you close the houses, three overall. At least two most interesting thing about this row gates when you leave and watch out for rows are completely empty, with one was that one of the end houses was the dangerous roof, it’s OK.” row sporadically occupied by a few clearly a rebuild, and a nice one too. Not much further down the road residents. It seems that way, judging Good condition, high ceilings inside, were a conspicuous row of terraced by the myriad of CCTV cameras and three bedrooms, parquet flooring, and houses, five in total, all clearly empty police-themed deterrent stickers on the multiple bathrooms. Some brooms and and abandoned. Nothing particularly front gates of some. Oh, and speaking whatnot left in the kitchen suggested interesting to see there, except some of deterrents, the police station poised that someone was coming to clean up at the very end of the street seems to occasionally, but judging by the dust on be a good one. It wasn’t too difficult to the bedroom floors it hadn’t been for a gain access to the clearly empty ones, while. I was surprised that no-one was but they had barely anything inside. living in such a nice, modern place. But Simply just walls and old toilets. After then there’s a lot I don’t understand checking one row I assumed the other about Taiwan.

Lennie Pepper is a 31-year-old from England, but has travelled around Taiwan to such an extent during the past two years that locals now ask him for advice. Currently on the run from Brexit, he has discovered that photography and writing are the perfect remedy for a premature mid- life crisis, and cost considerably less than a Porsche 911. His favorite things to do are , exploring abandoned buildings, riding motorbikes, and obsessing over tea. Inarticulate ramblings on all things can be found on his blog "Pepology" at lenpep.wordpress.com.

12 APRIL 2018 www.communitycenter.org.tw

April 2018_p3-end.indd 12 2018/3/26 下午7:46 AROUND TAIWAN Photowalking Through Taipei's History

Photowalkers is a group of over seven hundred photography enthusiasts in Taipei that gather inspiration and photos while walking around Taipei on guided “Photowalks.” Member Kenneth Dickson describes three especially fruitful areas of the city for photographing the city’s more historic aspects. TEXT & IMAGES: KENNETH DICKSON

eople don't do Photowalks for exercise, that's for sure! The average Photowalker's walking pace is only about a kilometer per hour. I was able to confirm this on several Photowalks with P the use of Google Fit. Though we don't walk much, the point of a Photowalk is to expand our experience of Taipei through a lens. In this article, we'll discover a few locations that are worth taking the time to photograph. Over several different trips, you can experience a little piece of Taipei in days gone by: from the Qing era, through the colonial period and the early Republican years, to the modern city.

TAIPEI BOTANICAL GARDENS

The Taipei Botanical Gardens () are located in the middle of the old city, but on entering you're taken to an entirely different place, somewhere between a country park and a jungle. Founded in 1896 as a private garden, the Botanical Gardens opened to the public in 1921. It's one of the easiest tourist attractions in Taipei to visit with its generous opening hours and easy access by MRT. You'll often see photographers here with long zoom lenses taking pictures of the herons, black bulbuls, and kingfishers. There are also several photographically interesting structures located in the garden: a newly reconstructed Japanese house & garden, the rear of the History Museum, the greenhouses, a traditional Qing dynasty administration building, and nine ponds. Facebook: photowalkerstaiwan Instagram: photowalkers Location: Taipei Botanical Gardens, 53 Nanhai Road. Joining Photowalkers on Facebook or Getting There: take the MRT to Xiaonanmen Station. Leave via exit 3 or 4 Instagram will introduce you to over seven and follow the signs up Boai Road for about six minutes. hundred members, many of whom share their Open: 5:30 am to 10 pm (seven days a week, all year). Special work on either or both forums. Check out the exhibits have different times, so please check. upcoming Photowalks, too. Entry: free It doesn't matter what kind of camera or skill Contact: (02) 2303-9978 level you have. Just come! If you join one of our http://tpbg.tfri.gov.tw/en/Introduction.php Photowalks, which usually last about two hours, Photographic Attractions: the park offers a wide range of flowers the other members will be delighted to help you throughout the year among its 1,500 species: in winter, it's azaleas; spring learn and get better photographs of Taipei. After brings forth wisteria and orchids; for summer, the east Indian lotus and all, that's why we're on the walk, too! blackberry lily flower; while fall shows off Spanish bayonets and yellow oleanders.

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 13 2018/3/25 下午10:15 AROUND TAIWAN

towards foods popular with the original residents of the area. Of course, taking photographs in this area requires sensitivity: ask permission if you photograph a face or private property. If they are uncomfortable with you taking a photograph, apologize for disturbing them and walk away.

Location: Nanjichang Night Market, Lane 307, Zhonghua Road, Section 2 Getting There: take a bus (1, 242, 568, 624, and 907) along Heping West Road, Section 2. Get NANJICHANG NEIGHBORHOOD & NIGHT MARKET off near the southern entrance to the Botanical Gardens. Alternatively take the Nanjichang Neighborhood (), often overlooked MRT to Xiaonanmen MRT station and by fast-paced Taipei, hit the headlines in 2017 when Taipei walk through the Botanical Gardens to City Government announced plans to redevelop the former the south gate. Then walk eight minutes airport area. Delving a little into the Nanjichang's history, a US to the market (Google Maps will come in military map from 1945 indicated that during the Japanese useful in finding the way). Enjoy getting colonial period the area was Itahashi Military Airport. There are lost! Open: 5 am to midnight. Hours of stores and no remnants left of the airport, but a modern community was built to house some of the KMT veterans and their dependents restaurants vary. Photographic Attractions: alleys, market, food, street life. who had fled to Taiwan after the end of the Chinese Civil War. There are still many alleys, old communities, markets, and faces that provide the urban photographer with opportunities to capture the character of Nanjichang. So focus on photographing the character, history and liveliness of the area, before it's bulldozed in the name of progress. At the moment, not much has been done, but panning around the area reveals the gradual encroachment of modern high-rises, middle-class gated communities, and widening boulevards. It's hard to believe that Nanjichang will not be redeveloped, erasing evidence of a tumultuous period in our shared history. Adding to the irony of the situation is that ELEPHANT MOUNTAIN HIKE Nanjichang Community was itself a model high-rise community when it was constructed in 1964. Located a short walk from the Xiangshan MRT station, Once you're done, stop to have a meal or buy a drink in you are welcomed to this hike by a narrow gate and STEPS! Nanjichang Night Market (), and get a feel for the Yes, this walk quickly takes you up from street level to life of the area! The market is smaller than you'd expect, but elevated views over Taipei’s Eastern District. Part of a it's not just active at night; you'll find popular, delicious and series of hiking trails, beyond Elephant Mountain ( affordable food sold throughout the day. There’s a definite slant ) the more adventurous can hike to Tiger Mountain and beyond, but as a photographer, you don't have to go the whole way! This walk is easily the most challenging of the three physically. The steps are steep and uneven, so decent shoes are a requirement (no high-heels or dress shoes!) It also gets crowded on weekends and holidays, so find another time to venture up. There are multiple viewing platforms on the walk, but the first one is easily the most crowded. Keep going a little further, and you'll find even better views of Taipei 101 and the Eastern District. Lastly, going in late afternoon is recommended, as sunset can offer spectacular views over Taipei. Avoid, if possible, the hottest and most humid part of the year to do the hike, (ie. July and August, except around sunset).

Location: Elephant Mountain (), Eastern District. Getting There: take the Red Line to Xiangshan station. Leave by Exit 2 and follow the signs, or

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 14 2018/3/25 下午10:15 walk in a straight line through Elephant Mountain Park. At the end of the park, turn left and follow the road for about five minutes. The steps will emerge after you pass a small temple on your left. Open: all day, all year Entry: free https://www.travel.taipei/en/ attraction/details/564 Photographic Attractions: spectacular views over the Eastern District of Taipei, Taipei 101 and Nangang areas. panoramas, HDRs and 101 backdrops are all easily done.

Don’t Forget to Bring… Water to keep hydrated; sunscreen; umbrella; hat, and decent walking shoes, especially if walking on slippery or muddy ground. Spend time looking more closely at specific areas. Bring extra memory cards and batteries, and prepare for rain, which can come without warning.

Kenneth Dickson bought a camera many years ago to take photographs of his around Taiwan. Fifteen thousand photographs later, he finally found Photowalkers in Taipei, a group that encourages everyone to get out and take photographs of Taiwan. You can visit his website at http:// www.lookthroughthelens.com

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 15 2018/3/26 下午7:40 PROFILE

ords like who even knew of the art of quilling, “ inspiration” , but there are connoisseurs of this paper “learning”, “skills” art who really appreciate it, and share W and “opportunity” their own creations. Initially, I started by fall in exact sequence when I posting photos of my handmade quilled think of my quilling journey. It envelopes on various local online is rightly said that you don’t forums. It piqued curiosity among know when you’ll use what locals and I met a couple of them, who you learned in your primary saw and eventually purchased some school days, but luckily it of my work. My first ever sale was to a was not that far back for me. local university student, and it was an I have always been intrigued exhilarating experience! by the designs we see in day- to-day life, both traditional and AUSPICIOUS RED contemporary. During my post- Slowly people started giving reviews Master’s time, I was doing personalized on style, design and color combinations, handkerchief embroidery and border and spreading my work to friends or work for my own use and to gift to loved ones. Eventually, I came to know loved ones. But after I got married, the that red is considered an auspicious game changed into a new format, with color here, and Taiwanese people paper, finding new ways to express prefer it over any other color. They The shapes and designs. also get attached to designs which are Quilling is the art of folding paper traditional, natural and inspired with strips into various shapes and gluing meaning. Gentle Art them together to make beautiful Meanwhile, I started making cards designs and scenes. The first time I and my husband Jagat encouraged me came across quilling was when I saw to sell them at our local farmers market. my elder sister, Grishma, decorate It was a humbling and educational of Quilling envelopes with quilled pieces. They experience for me. I realized that it’s were truly beautiful, and inspiring. I got not easy to set up a stall and sell at interested in the art of quilling then, but market. It took a lot of patience and it wasn’t until I gifted a friend a quilling some much-needed encouragement Quilling is the art of folding set that I simultaneously bought my from local vendors. I am not well versed in the local language, and everyone paper strips into various own too. Quilling tools and strips are readily available in India, and are quite around has been more than helpful shapes and gluing them popular as well. in understanding my non-verbal together into beautiful designs communication. This is the time you STARTING OUT see kindness, positive attitude and and scenes. Manasvi explains Initially, quilling started out as a perseverance connecting hearts, and how she discovered, mastered hobby which I used to pursue after uplifting the community together. and how she continues to be my day job. Learning to make basic There have been days when I went shapes is fairly easy, but it does need home without a sale, but along the inspired from this less well- practice to get neat results. I spoiled known form of paper art. many paper strips and made some very funny looking designs before I made the first piece that was actually TEXT & IMAGES: MANASVI CHAWDA good. After I learned the basic shapes, I started making smaller pieces, flowers and leaves. I used to glue those on handmade envelopes and gift them to family and friends. I started to learn more about quilling in the process. When I moved to Taiwan in 2016, I had no idea that quilling would help me connect with so many wonderful and generous people here. A handmade item holds higher value among Taiwanese, and quilling is fairly uncommon here, at least among people where I live. I’ve come across very few

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 16 2018/3/25 下午10:15 PROFILE

way I became friends with so many of people through various forums, and wonderful individuals. their response was overwhelming, especially among Taiwan’s Indian RECOGNITION community. A lot of them appreciated By this time, the supply of quilling my work and I got to sell more cards strips that I had brought with me from during the year-end festive season of India was almost finished. I started to 2017. By now, my cards were not just visit nearby stationary stores in search sold in Tainan but in other of of supplies and realized that quilling Taiwan as well. strips are not readily available in Taiwan. I expanded my online reach by So, by early 2017, I learned how to creating my Facebook page under the start cutting my own strips by hand. name “Quilling in love,” and posting It’s a tedious and time-consuming job, photos of my work there regularly. I get but there was no other way around it. queries regarding quilling classes, and Since then, I have been using hand-cut I am very excited to teach others how strips in all my projects, thus making to fold and glue quilling strips to make my work completely handmade. I still their own designs. Over time, some of visit stationary stores regularly, in hopes my designs have become very popular of finding quilling strips, but I very among buyers. rarely come across any which suit my Quilling is an evolving art, and every requirements. They are usually not the when I saw people liking, appreciating day I see a lot of artists creating some width that I use, or the color that I need. and buying cards from the bakery, very beautiful and astonishing pieces During my stint at the local farmers and I can’t help but feel a little proud of work. The beauty of any quilled market, I met and became friends with a that people choose to buy my cards piece lies in its neatness and symmetry, lot of customers. People around started to convey wishes and feelings to their and it takes time to reach that level, recognizing my work, and I got to make loved ones. but with practice, one can achieve it. I some very beautiful customized pieces hope to learn more and in turn teach on wood and glass surfaces. While QUILLING IN LOVE others so that they can make their own doing this, I came to know that people Meanwhile, things were looking up works of art. Quilling is quite relaxing preserve my cards by framing them and in connection to featuring and selling and satisfying while I work on a project. putting them up for display. To promote cards online. I got in touch with a lot There are times when I know what I my work I prepared some handmade want, and then other times I can’t wait posters and put them up at a couple of to find out what the end result will food joints and local bakeries. look like. The prospects with quilling During this time (after a lot of are endless, and through it I hope to pushing from my husband) I gathered discover a lot more and connect with up the courage to ask the owner many great souls in Taiwan. of the Ivy Bakery, our favorite local bakery, if we could showcase or sell Website: https://www.facebook. cards through his store, and he was com/quillinginlove/ encouraging and kind enough to allow me to keep a small box of handmade cards there. I was very excited and Manasvi Chawda lives in the response that I got was very the beautiful and culturally encouraging. It’s been a couple of rich city of Tainan with her months now and his support has helped husband. She enjoys nature me to reach and connect with a lot of and draws inspiration from new customers. There have been times it for her quilling designs. THE CENTER NEEDS YOU! Do you have a skill or talent that you would like to share? Or have you found some great places around Taipei that you would like to take others to see? Then why not consider teaching a course or leading a tour for the Center in Fall/Winter 2018? If you are interested, or would like more information, please contact Rosemary at [email protected].

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 17 2018/3/25 下午10:15 ARTS International Ceramic Artists Flock to Yingge

TEXT: DAN CUNNINGHAM IMAGES: NEW TAIPEI CITY YINGGE CERAMICS MUSEUM, KAMONCHANOK PANUWED, JANINA MYRONOVA

n the past couple of months, I’ve developed an unhealthy obsession with ceramic art. It I began when I discovered two Instagram accounts: a Japanese artist called Yuta Segawa, who makes miniature porcelain vases, and a British artist called Kat Evans, who creates formless stoneware sculptures which look like they come from the world of H.R. Giger. Ceramic art possesses an allure that is not to be taken lightly. Spirited Away (to Taipei) — During the Lunar New Year break, I took a leap of faith and Kamonchanok Panuwed headed to Yingge for a pottery class. While my first throw was not a great success, I did learn a lot from talking with the international Kamonchanok Panuwed (May) is artist in residence artists in residence at Yingge at Yingge Ceramics Academy in the New Taipei City Ceramics Academy. They have a Yingge Ceramics Museum. Until April, you can visit small, red-brick studio at the back the studio and see what she has created during her of the sculpture park in New Taipei past few months in Taiwan. You can also check out City Yingge Ceramics Museum, May's work at her Facebook page: www.facebook. which is open to visitors of the com/MayandClayCeramicsStudio museum. The artists in residence program at Yingge Ceramics Academy began back in 2009. In total, the Hi May, thank you for taking the time to talk with us. Has this residency enabled project has brought 77 ceramic you to work in a different way to how you worked before? artists to Yingge; each for a three- Yes, I have a brand called May&Clay, which is all about my smaller ceramic pieces. month residency where they During this residency, I have been able to work in a more sculptural way, and on a create artworks for the museum’s larger scale. I have really enjoyed it and I dreamt to do this for a long time. collection. The program facilitates cultural exchange within the Where did you learn to make ceramics? Taiwanese ceramic art community, I studied ceramic art at Kangen University, which is a two-hour flight from bringing international recognition Bangkok, in the northeast of Thailand. I graduated back in 2010. Now I live in to the museum and its academy. Kangen and I am part of a consignment store in Bangkok. I often go to Bangkok for I met with two of the current exhibitions and I keep in touch with everyone through the store. artists in residence, Janina Myronova and Kamonchanok What is the ceramic scene like in Bangkok? Panuwed, for a fireside chat about There are a lot of artists. Only three of my school mates continued to work in their pottery experiences in Taiwan. ceramics after graduation, but I also have other friends in the Bangkok ceramic scene.

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 18 2018/3/25 下午10:15 ARTS

Who are your idols and inspirations? Vipu Srivilasa, a Thai ceramic artist based in . Also the Russian surrealist, Sergei Isupov. I like animation by Studio Ghibli. I love all of [their] movies, especially Spirited Away. I have been to Jiufen [the village near Taipei which is said to be the inspiration for the movie’s setting] two times.

Is that why you came to Taiwan? Actually this is my fourth time in Taiwan. I am really interested in the nature, and in Taiwanese people. So I started from here; this is my first time to be an artist in residence.

Can you tell us about your work in Taiwan? This collection is inspired by Taiwan’s nature, and by my surroundings. One of my sculptures is about the wind, because this town [Yingge] is very windy. Another is about earthquakes. In Thailand we don’t have earthquakes. Yesterday there was a very strong one, and they happen a lot.

How does the ceramic scene in Taiwan compare to the ceramic scene in Thailand? The techniques are the same, but our cultures and traditions make us different. Here [in Taiwan] the teapot is important and they make very nice teaware. I use a coiling technique, and I met a Taiwanese ceramic artist called Lu Shu-jen who uses a similar technique. She makes sculptures of her pet dogs at her mountainside studio near the sea.

Pottery Dolls of Yingge — Janina Myronova

Hi Janina, thank you for taking the time to talk with us. How did you get into ceramics?

My adventure with ceramics began in Ukraine. I was born in Donetsk, and I graduated from the department of Ceramic Janina Myronova is artist in residence at Art at the National Academy of Fine Arts in Yingge Ceramics Academy in the New Lviv. I started [ceramics] when I was 15. Since Taipei City Yingge Ceramics Museum. 2002 until now, I have been making ceramics. Until April, you can visit the studio and Around six years ago I moved to Poland, see what she has created during her where I studied for my second Master’s past few months in Taiwan. You can degree at the Polish Eugeniusz Geppert also check out Myronova's work at her Academy of Fine Arts in Wroclaw. Currently, I website: www.janinamyronova.com am studying for a PhD at the same academy Athlete Porcelain, high-firing glaze, underglaze in Poland.

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Why are you doing the residency at Yingge Ceramics Museum? I took part in the 2016 Taiwan Ceramics Biennale, when I heard that I could apply for this residency. I couldn’t do it in 2016 because of my studies, but now I am more flexible so I can take part in different residences. I am starting with Taiwan, then in September I will PEEK-A-BOO go to Korea for three months, to the Porcelain, high-firing glaze, underglaze Clay Art Gimhae Museum. In October, I will come back to Yingge for the 2018 Figures-Contours Chamotte clay, low-firing glaze, underglaze Congress of the International Academy of Ceramics (IAC). I have been a member since 2017, and there will be a ceremony for new members. In the IAC, there is only one representative from Ukraine, and I am one of only four from Poland.

Has your residency in Taiwan been successful? Yes. Before, I always went to ceramics symposiums. I have participated in around thirty different countries, such as Georgia, Egypt, Croatia, Lithuania, and Denmark. Now is my first time for a residency. Symposiums are usually for just two weeks. You come mostly to talk with other artists about your work, but in two weeks you cannot make any works. Here I can really focus on the project, and three months Ceramics for pocket is enough time to understand culture, prove your quality, and meet artists from Porcelain, high-firing glaze, underglaze Taiwan. I feel very welcome here.

How do you make your sculptures? Don’t Miss Out There are different ways to make ceramics, for example casting or making with coils. I choose slab building because, for me, it is a quick technique and I enjoy the art of construction. It is a bit like making a cake. I prepare a big slab [of clay] and cut In October this year, Yingge it into pieces of five or ten centimeters, and my sculptures grow from there. I think Ceramics Museum plays my forms are made for this technique. They are hollow [not solid] because I like host to the 2018 Congress them to be light, so I can carry them by myself. of the International Acad- emy of Ceramics, during the Is all your work about the human figure? museum’s annual Ceramics Yes, all my sculptures are figures of people, or sometimes animals, or the Biennale event. Along with relationship between people and animals, but now people are my main inspiration. public discussions and For example, in the project I have been making during this residency, I concentrated on children. I studied the children here [in Taiwan], how they look, and what they talks, there will be several wear. Sometimes I feel like they are very unusual, wearing a warm coat with just exhibitions around Yingge, slippers on a rainy day. Also their hairstyles; I like when the girls cut a very straight all centered on the congress’ fringe, and tie their hair into mini pig-tails. I tried to capture some of their special theme “New Orientalia: characteristics. Functionality, Spirituality, Diversity.” Find out more at the website: http://new-taipei- city2018.aic-iac.org/en/about/

Daniel Cunningham is International Project PR & Marketing M a n a g e r a t D D G T a i p e i . H e i s t h e International Media Liaison of the 2017 Golden Pin Design Award and the Anima / personal composition Golden Pin Concept Design Award. Glass, porcelain, underglaze

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 20 2018/3/26 下午7:28 CULTURE Eunuchs of the Imperial Court

TEXT: SUE BABCOCK IMAGE: WEB

EUNUCHS IN CHINA hunger pangs. A committee was quickly formed The topic of China and eunuchs of the imperial court and dispatched to visit Cheng Ho. Upon their continues to hold, for students of history, a curious arrival, they were dumbfounded to find fascination mingled with an expectation of mystery and that he was not suffering from any ill-side drama. It wasn’t until the Han dynasty (206 B.C. – 220 A.D.) effects from the fast. that eunuchs were employed by the imperial court. They Needless to say, this created some were given close proximity to the emperor, his close advisors puzzlement. To quell rising suspicions of and the inner working of the imperial court because they a hoax, it was decided that Cheng Ho’s were unable to have direct descendants that might become a movements needed to be observed. threat to the throne. Therefore, they were considered “safe” Spies were sent to the eunuch’s house. for the ruling dynasty to employ. There they learned that their demi-god However, like within any government setting, intrigue was merrily consuming much food. prevailed, along with political power struggles within the The people demanded an explanation. different eunuch divisions and the imperial court. The fall of He listened to their charges and calmly the Qin dynasty (221 B.C. – 207 B.C.) for example is attributed responded. “Yes, I did ask you to fast for to the infamous eunuch Zhao Gao. However, not all eunuchs thirty days during the day, but I did not ask were corrupt. you to forgo food at night.” Rejoicing in this good news, they all returned home to fill their stomachs. CHENG HO – FLEET COMMANDER, EXPLORER AND The following year was a prosperous one for the COURT DIPLOMAT inhabitants of Java. The seeds that were brought by Cheng Ho The great era of the Ming dynasty (1368 – 1644), began from China had produced strange and wonderful vegetables. with the reign of Emperor Yung-lo in 1403. Through These yields exceeded previous harvests. To honor Cheng Ho Emperor Yung-lo’s efforts, China’s international trade grew the people established the “Starving Month” when meals significantly. Trade expeditions were sent to Southeast Asia, were only taken after sundown. It is said that this occasion India, Arabia, the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea and eastern Africa. (which is very similar to Ramadan) is still observed in Java Given the many internal intrigues of the imperial court and today. his desire to push forward his plans for establishing China’s international trade affiliations, Emperor Yung-lo side-stepped STEALING FROM THE SYSTEM the normal bureaucratic channels and placed a trusted court Another example of how the eunuchs intertwined eunuch by the name of Cheng Ho (Zheng He, ), in charge themselves into the imperial court is illustrated by the of his trading fleets. court’s system of ordering. The court’s procedure was that Before leaving on a South Seas imperial mission, Cheng Ho when orders for high quality goods such as porcelain were stocked his ship with gold, porcelain, silk and semi-precious to be placed, specific instructions and a set of detailed stones to bestow upon those pledging loyalty to China. It was drawings were needed to accompany each order. This system in this royal manner of royalty that he sailed into Java, where required that all special orders for porcelain had to be closely no one could recall ever seeing anyone from China before, let monitored, a job that fell under the supervision of the alone a representative from the imperial court. imperial court eunuchs. One account relates how a court eunuch was caught for CHENG HO’S JAVA ADVENTURE giving away and selling an entire imperial porcelain shipment As the days went by, the Javanese citizens came to Cheng that was under his supervision for personal gain. He saw Ho with many questions and requests about life in China. One “faults” in this particular shipment and authorized that the request was to help them forecast their future, since he was entire shipment be re-made. Meanwhile, he sold the “faulty” the emperor’s most trusted official. shipment on the black market. His theft was discovered and Born within a devoted Muslim family, Cheng Ho was also he was executed. Such intrigues among the eunuchs usurped a believer in the mystical events of the universe. As he began the imperial powers, disrupted the imperial realm and his divination rites, to answer the people’s questions, he threatened the imperial system. However, by the end of the found to his dismay and that of the islanders, the forthcoming Qing dynasty (1644 to 1912), the Chinese imperial system of year would to be one of famine and drought. government ended, along with the system of using eunuchs He hastily suggested that to ward off this impending for government service. disaster, they needed to make sacrifices to the evil spirits, pray, increase their labors and fast for thirty days. Then the evil spirits would be appeased. Suzan Babcock is a long-time resident of Taiwan. With great determination and zeal, the people of Java During her stay here, she has managed four began their preparations. Strict orders were issued that successful careers in education, cross-cultural everyone must adhere to the regulations. However, three relations and counseling, although being a days passed and the islanders were plagued by severe mother has been her favorite.

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April 2018_p3-end.indd 21 2018/3/25 下午10:15 OUTLOOK Conflict Revolution: NOW CAGE Your Conflict

TEXT: WENDY EVANS IMAGE: WEB

onflict resolution is a Many of us instinctively common term that could respond to conflict in be defined as seeking ways that damage our C a peaceful solution to relationships. It’s as if we disagreements. When disagreements need to cage the conflict when arise with a family member, lover, or it arises. Below are seven steps close friend, finding a peaceful solution which, when applied, will help you is often not on the forefront of our to NOW CAGE conflict when it arises. mind. Often during these moments we To clarify, the purpose of caging the avoiding conflict. Yet, in reality, feelings don't feel like being peaceful. Many conflict is not to try to avoid it when of anger and resentment can take root of us just tend to become defensive it comes up. Rather, the goal of our emotionally. When someone in the and angry. It’s easy for our emotions to responses should be to tame conflict relationship tends to walk out during move in this direction because anger and work with it so that it doesn’t conflict, at some later point there will can make us feel strong and in control. rage out of control and devour the often be a mild disagreement that Strong expressions of anger can make relationship. Framing our strategy results in an extreme reaction. A us feel like we’re “winning”. However, as the acronym NOW CAGE can help growing amount of tension over small such strategies often result in “losing” us to respond rationally, even during differences can lead to an ongoing by damaging our most important moments of heated conflict. When the strained and unpleasant relationship. relationships. Reactively expressing inevitable conflict arises, recalling this Those who walk out may find that anger is a trap many of us fall into. We acronym can help us resolve conflict in “Time wounds all heels.” need a revolution in our method of a healthy way. Although walking out and abruptly conflict resolution. Many of us need leaving conflict when it arises is not to change our approach to handling N: No Name-calling: Calling helpful, if you feel yourself getting conflicts and disagreements with the other person names creates an overwhelmed and concerned that others. atmosphere of anger, distrust, and you might say or do something that First, let’s recognize that conflict defensiveness. you regret, it can help to take some is not a bad thing. In fact, innovation time away from the other person. and growth often come as solutions O: Deal with One issue at a However, in taking a break, it helps to to problems or conflicts. On the other Time. When we’re angry, we tend to tell the other person that you need a hand, couples who don’t experience bring up past issues that have upset “time out” to cool off and collect your any conflict usually end up this way us. Yet, becoming historically hysterical thoughts. Decide ahead of time how because their relationship is cold and moves us farther away from the goal many minutes or hours (not days) distant. Many people are surprised to of trying to resolve the conflict of the are needed before you’ll be ready to learn that divorce often results from moment. Bringing the past into the come together again to talk. Agree what is left unspoken rather than what present conflict often keeps us from on a time when you’ll resume your has been spoken. Often relationships solving any of the named issues. conversation about the topic of conflict that lack conflict also lack passion. or disagreement. Conflict can be a sign of energy in the W: Don’t Walk Out. Sometimes relationship, rather than being a defect. a person tries to shut down the conflict C: Remain Calm: In spite of In the next few paragraphs, we’ll look at by leaving. This can result in both what might feel like a highly charged ways to tame conflict so that its energy parties harboring anger toward each situation, try not to overreact. Even doesn’t get out of control. other. Too often there is a mistaken if the person you are dealing with Taming conflict requires both a notion that avoiding the conflict is seems out of control, being calm will strategy for dealing with it as well as going to keep from damaging the help to de-escalate the situation. An an easy way to remember our strategy relationship. People often say, “Time ancient proverb says, “A gentle answer when our emotions are inflamed. heals all wounds” as a way to justify deflects anger, but harsh words make

22 APRIL 2018 www.communitycenter.org.tw

April 2018_p3-end.indd 22 2018/3/25 下午10:15 OUTLOOK

tempers flare.” Being calm will also G: Don’t GENERALIZE: When the stress of living cross-culturally, they help the other person to hear and our emotions are heightened, we experience an increase in relational understand your viewpoint, instead communicate in a more reactionary tensions. If you find yourself struggling of putting energy into being defensive way. We can observe an inverse with these or other concerns, please against your assault. Before lashing relationship between our emotions reach out for help from one of our out, try taking a deep breath and then and our cognition. The more intensely caring professional counselors at the saying, “Let me think about that for a we feel our emotions, the less rational Community Services Center. As you minute.” we are in our thinking. So, when we seek to overcome the challenges before are angry, we may use words like you, please connect with the services A: Be Assertive NOT “never” or “always” to describe our and activities offered at the Center. We Aggressive: As we defend irritation. These generalizations are hope that you will discover that the ourselves, we too often end up using usually inaccurate, and they heighten Community Services Center “strives to “you statements” that are accusatory the tension and add conflict to the help you thrive.” and unhelpful to the relationship. relationship. We need to try using “I statements” in the middle of conflict. At first E: Don’t EXAGGERATE: glance, it seems silly that a simple Some of us could win an Oscar for change in pronoun could improve our performance during conflict. the outcome. However, this is a tried Unfortunately, these are times when and true principle in psychological we’re not performing lines in a film, Wendy Evans is a USA research. Whereas “you statements” but generating words and emotion Certified Counselor with communicate an accusatory tone, that hurt someone who is special to us. more than twenty years “I statements” demonstrate a Exaggerating or inventing a complaint of experience in working with people willingness to take responsibility for prevents us from focusing on the core struggling with various issues including your own perceptions and feelings issues that need to be addressed. We marriage/relationship tensions, about the situation. For example, you need to make a conscious effort to depression, anxiety, parenting, weight could say, “You are such a filthy pig!” make sure the words we are speaking management, eating disorders, vs. “I feel like too often I have to clean are true and accurate. substance abuse, and cross cultural up after you.” Many expatriates find that amidst adjustment.

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www.communitycenter.org.tw APRIL 2018 23

April 2018_p3-end.indd 23 2018/3/25 下午10:15 FOOD & DRINK Falling in Love with your Toaster Oven

TEXT & IMAGES: KAREN FARLEY “Big Red” has been a faithful companion in our small Taiwanese home kitchen.

toaster oven is simply about using it is essential for both cooking brown on one side more than the other, making toast for some. For and baking. The close and direct heat or food that dries out or browns more others it opens a whole new of a pre-heating oven can burn your on the hotter side of the oven. A world of opportunities after food, so waiting until it’s warmed up Turn the pan around 180° about two- years living with the same conventional means that your meat will cook through thirds of the way through the cooking oven. Your connection with your toaster without burning or drying out. Baking or baking time for more even results. oven can be so much more than an at the right temperature also ensures When baking it’s important not to do occasional date or a cautious start to a your baked goods rise as expected with this too early, as it may affect the rising new relationship. the right texture when done. process, so wait until the baked goods Patrick and I started using a toaster Set the temperature called for in appear to have risen fully before turning oven during the early days of our time the recipe, and then give your oven at in the last 5-10 minutes of baking. in Asia, and our own personal love least ten minutes to reach the required 4. Keep the oven door closed until you story involves a toaster oven – I may temperature before you cook or bake. really need to open it have been smitten with Patrick’s oven 2. Test your oven’s actual temperature As tempting as it is to check on your before I fell for him. Eight years later, Your oven’s temperature can vary by food while it’s cooking or baking by our many toaster ovens have been such up to 20°C cooler or hotter than shown opening the oven to get a good look at faithful companions in all our kitchen on the temperature dial, even with the your culinary creations, resist this urge adventures – from baking fresh bread same model of toaster oven. When to check. Opening the door of a toaster to making a full Thanksgiving dinner for you get a new toaster oven, check the oven can result in a significant drop in a crowd – we’ve even named them! actual temperature with an oven-safe temperature within the oven, which There’s almost nothing that a toaster thermometer. These are available for means it will need time to reach the oven with a controllable temperature around NT$100 from most general required temperature again, and could dial can’t do with a few small merchandise stores in Taiwan. affect the outcome of your recipe. adjustments to your technique. If you’re Place the thermometer in the middle Wait before opening the oven door used to using a conventional-sized oven, of the oven while it is preheating to the to rotate the pan or to check your dish or you want to use your toaster oven for 200°C setting, and leave it for at least is done. If you really need to check more than just toast, you can get your fifteen minutes. Once the thermometer beforehand, use the oven light (if yours relationship with your toaster oven off dial stops increasing for a couple of has one) or a flashlight to visually check to a great start with these tips: minutes, it will have reached its actual through the glass door. 1. Preheat your oven for at least ten temperature. If it’s reading higher or Here’s to a long-lasting relationship minutes lower than 200°C then always adjust with your toaster oven! Getting your toaster oven to the your temperature up or down when right temperature by preheating before cooking/baking for best results. Recheck the temperature every few These tips were taken from KP Kitchen months after the initial test, as it may Taiwan’s blog. For more toaster oven- change during your toaster oven’s friendly recipes and tips in English and lifetime. Chinese, check out: blog.kpkitchen.tw. 3. Turn the pan around about two thirds through the cooking/baking time Due to their size, toaster ovens may Karen Farley is a lifetime baker have hot spots, where one part of the and cook who founded KP oven gets more heat than another. This Kitchen Taiwan two years ago to uneven heat distribution, usually at share her experiences of cooking the back of the oven, can result in one and baking in small Asian side of your pan being more cooked kitchens. Karen can be contacted at Oven-safe thermometer than the other. Look out for cakes that [email protected].

24 APRIL 2018 www.communitycenter.org.tw

April 2018_p3-end.indd 24 2018/3/25 下午10:15 FOOD & DRINK The Fattest Chinese People We Know

TEXT: DOREEN WANG IMAGE: WEB

and consuming it – in a way that other families aren’t. And because the Wang family (partly through its weapons of food-related seduction) has a way of getting under the skin, In the first part of a personal tribute to a favorite dominating your obligations and allegiances, and marking you a Wang through and through. subject, Doreen Wang talks about her love of the Neither the project we embarked on nor our intentions culture, the history, and the rich personal memories are something new. There are countless memoirs about inspired by… food! food, family, and history. But I’m not interested in charting the avant-garde or the pioneering, but rather in putting my finger on what is necessary. Why the undercurrent of anxiety, urgency, and yearning pulsing through so many memoirs and he story begins with ourselves: the Wang family – cookbooks? Yes, individuals have taken to the page to honor the people my sister and I believed to be the fattest their families and the foods they grew up with, as an act of Chinese people in the world. Of course, chunkier love and reverence. But why are the memoir, the cookbook, T and chubbier Chinese exist, but it didn’t seem that and their combined form (cheekily termed the “foodoir”) way, from what we had encountered during our childhood consuming the attentions and creative energies of a large in 1990s suburban New Jersey, nor did it seem possible for cross section of our contemporary world? other families to regard food with as much rapture and fervor There is storytelling and there is documenting (and there as we did. Born into a clan of buxom ladies, of men with was a time when this was one and the same – by telling and permanent balloons under their shirts, of adventurers who retelling, we systematically sustained a legacy). Writers do spontaneously crossed bridges to chase down cheesecake, what we do to find out what we know, to make sense of our our flesh and our food were a faithful source of contention, world, to preserve, to remember, to engage in the act of of punishment and pleasure, of shame and satisfaction. The creation. But why food, why family, why history, why now? history of the Wang family emerges from our foods and from What are we afraid of losing? our contradictions. This is what propelled this project – a I fear losing my grandmother – a tough, fiercely competitive family food anthology – into being and what set into motion bird of a woman stuffed with jealousy, prejudices, and the telling of the never-ending tale that binds. Several years immense untapped talent. Every year, she gets softer and ago, I began talking to my sister, my cousins, and other older smaller, and even as she screams at the T.V. set for the relatives about all of us being storytellers and archivists president of Taiwan to die, her bite has dulled – less knife and for the food of our family. We started here because the more tofu. My fear and longing have already anticipated her Wang family is obsessed with food – the act of creating death, which is the loss of tastes and contact on the rough

www.communitycenter.org.tw APRIL 2018 25

April 2018_p3-end.indd 25 2018/3/25 下午10:15 FOOD & DRINK

patches of my tongue, of a rhythm of life in which you woke It’s not just Chinese people; most of the world’s inhabitants to prep-cook-clean-prep-cook-clean-prep-cook-clean until the haven’t gone down in history craning their heads and house was quiet and you were finally the last soul awake, of fixing a roving eye on inscribed instructions as they toiled traditions that imbued each increment of time – between sun away in the kitchen or roasted over a fire. The history of up and sun downbetween the barren, chilly days and the the cookbook itself is something to consider. In Invention hot, torrential rains of another season – with meaning. of the Modern Cookbook, author Sandra Sherman notes The resurgence in home cooking, organic foods, farmers that almost from the beginning of time, cooking was an markets, gardening, the foodoir, etc., seem to be inter- art “passed down through real-time demonstrations and stitched within the larger subconscious of our times. Must hands-on apprenticeships.” Sherman traces the origins of the something be on the trajectory of death for its renaissance modern-day cookbook to the end of the English Restoration to come around, for it to become fashionable again? Who (1660), a time when creators of other “self-help” texts were isn’t afraid of death – the death of our past, our memories, also conflicted about “whether skills dependent on both art ourselves? Food is our collective map of dying and and manual dexterity can be imparted by a book.” Like the regenerating, our time travel machine. Perhaps we are now first writers of the recipe and the pioneering editors of the on a journey in search of our antecedents, our origins, our cookbook we know and love today, my family and I launched forerunners, our roots in the earth. Our land is that which this project with a bittersweet awareness of the limitations of feeds, and when we disintegrate, that which we feed. We the written word. And yet, I write anyway, because the recipe look to our ancestors and our sustenance from one and the can offer us much more than just a set of directions. The same source. recipe is one point of origin to go forth questioning, exploring Maybe this is why we cook (when fast food and take-out how the narratives, life lessons, inspirations, promises, and are so much less time-consuming and labor-intensive), why gateways to other eras and cultures can be unlocked, how the we bother (when food-making is no longer a vital skill). My recipe can serve as a prism by which we glimpse and capture cousin worries that he’s still not learning fast enough; his a piece of ourselves and a moment in which we existed. hands move rapidly – kneading, mincing, mixing – under Among other goals I’m uninterested in pursuing these days, my grandmother’s thinly veiled threats: “There won’t be I’m also forgoing the role of one and only native speaker. This a next year; after this, I’m done.” And so we put pen to has been my charge, my birthright as the English-speaking, paper, frantically jotting down recipes and tips, even though American-grown, eldest daughter of my generation on both they held infinitely more power and mystery as flexible and sides. But my English words, American contributions, and whimsical secret files passed from mind to mind, to memory, laoda superiority complex will always be one-sided, will never to generation. be enough. Rather, I hope my words are the first humble contributions to the family food anthology; they will only be the opening chords to a song. And we, the Wang family and beyond, will chime in when the time is right – divulging the fat, the marrow, the vim, and the vinegar of our food- filled lives, no matter how bitter the melons or pungent the fermenting beans in the basement. What defines this Wang family foodoir is its choir of voices, its intent for open- endedness, its acknowledgement that this project is unending (and its topic inexhaustible). Again, I confess that the telling may never be complete. Because like any good Chinese meal, there is no star, no main course or entrée, but rather a clamor of chopsticks swooping into an array of platters, colors, and textures. Our star is the interminable, round, rotating table. Family of readers and eaters – thick, thin, around the globe, and of the other world – we invite you to the hearth of the storyto reinvigorate dinner table conversations and bread- breaking with the fragrance of fire, the stink of honesty, and the power of the ordinary human touch.

Doreen Wang grew up in the United States but for generations, her family has lived in Tianmu, which is also where her grandfather met and married her grandmother in early 1949. Doreen has received a Kundiman fellowship as well as a Pushcart Prize nomination for her creative writing and will be teaching a workshop on writing true stories at the Center starting this April.

26 APRIL 2018 www.communitycenter.org.tw

April 2018_p3-end.indd 26 2018/3/25 下午10:15 FOOD & DRINK

and used for desserts. I've even seen creamed corn used as a topping on Dazhi Feng Yuan shaved ice (which still repulses me, but hey, corn ice cream is a thing in the US now, so we can't judge). They also have douhua, or soy pudding, but I found the flavor a little on the burnt side, which I know some soy milk places are known for. I personally prefer it unburnt. You can add three toppings to the douhua; they’re hidden underneath. Dazhi Feng Yuan's ice isn't super fine, but with the creamy and chewy toppings and brown sugar syrup, it all works together. For those who don't like the traditional toppings, they have mango shaved ice, but it's seasonal (summer). I haven't tried it yet because I'm still working through different combos of the traditional toppings. My go-to combo is usually pearl barley, aiyu, boba and mochi balls, but on this day my friend wanted to try the big red beans and the taro balls. They have about ten seats, it's fairly clean and they let you use their bathroom. Haha! I had to note that because A LOT of little shops won't let you use their bathroom, even though you know they have one. Anyways, this no-frills shop has become a go-to for a quick snack when I'm in the Dazhi area. Cuz global warming. The shop is near Shih Chien University and the TEXT: JOAN H, HUNGRYINTAIPEI azhi Feng Yuan is a small IMAGES: HUNGRYINTAIPEI Dominican International School. shop in Dazhi, but with more than all the essentials for DAZHI FENG YUAN D Taiwanese shaved ice. With 35 Dazhi Street over twenty different chewy, colorful (02) 2703-5051 toppings from taro balls to grass jelly to (35 ) boba and red adzuki beans, you could MRT: Five minutes’ walk from Dazhi make any number of combinations. Joan created Hungry in Taipei in station (brown line) Feng yuan translates to the name 2005 when she moved to Taiwan from Hours: 11 am – 9 pm for tapioca in Chinese, so that's why California and couldn't find much you see a big bowl of it on their sign, information online about restaurants in advertised for NT$30. English. She has since blogged about A bowl of shaved ice is NT$60 with over six hundred Taipei restaurants, a choice of four toppings. I especially found places to fulfill her Mexican, like their pearl barley, so much so that cupcake, BBQ and pho cravings. She I got double of it. I know Taiwanese has explored Taipei's night markets, shaved ice toppings can sound strange shaved ice, dumplings and fine-dining to people who are used to having their scene extensively. Hungry in Taipei has barley with beef soup or beans in chili, been mentioned by BuzzFeed, CNN but think of how oatmeal (which is Travel, NY Post, Lonely Planet Taiwan, usually eaten sweet for breakfast) is Taipei Times, Bizarre Foods and the now being used as a savory option. In Culinary Institute of America. http:// Taiwan, mung beans, red beans, pearl hungryintaipei.blogspot.tw/ barley, and oatmeal are all sweetened

www.communitycenter.org.tw APRIL 2018 27

April 2018_p3-end.indd 27 2018/3/25 下午10:15 TRAVEL To the Top of Taiwan (and back) in a Day

ast December, a friend and I requirements for the day hike are that completed a one-day hike up you must have experience Mount Jade. mountains above 3,000 meters in the L The day hike is not the past five years. All you have to do is With an altitude of 3,952 easiest way to climb the tallest upload a picture of yourself on top of mountain in Taiwan, but it is the a mountain above 3,000 meters and meters, Jade Mountain simplest way to make sure you get a tell them which mountain it was. Also, is the highest mountain, permit for the popular climb, which you must give the park your personal not only in Taiwan, but in often has over a hundred people on information such as name, age, and ID the waiting list, especially at weekends. or passport number. As with the much all northeast Asia. While Another option is having at least more popular two-day hike, trekkers climbing it is usually a two- three foreigners in a team of four and intending to do the day hike must also day trek, to bypass the applying for a midweek permit, for go through a lottery process, but there which a quota is put aside for foreign are a lot fewer people who apply for it, intense competition for passport holders, but if you don’t have so getting a spot is easier. permits required for this other foreign friends that are up for the trek, Trent and his friend climb, a day hike application may be the A NIGHT CURFEW AND A NIGHT best route. CLIMB hiked to the top and back in The mountain permit and park Once we got to our hostel in Nantou a day. Here’s his story. entry permit can both be applied County, our hostess told us that the for online. However, some special road to Jade Mountain was going to

TEXT & IMAGES: TRENT JACKSON

28 APRIL 2018 www.communitycenter.org.tw

April 2018_p3-end.indd 28 2018/3/26 下午7:24 TRAVEL

to the distance markers, and instead be grateful for the experience and enjoy the marvelous surroundings, and the rare opportunity to go hiking in the highest mountains in Taiwan. After I made that decision, my hike was much more enjoyable. The road down from Mount Jade to Xinyi Township was amazing. It is one of the highest roads in Taiwan, with amazing views of the surrounding mountains. However, there are often rock slides, and the speed limit is only 30-40 kph. Much of the road was under reconstruction at the time, and I felt that at any time a section of the road could slide off the mountain. Climbing Mount Jade in one day turned out to be much harder than I thought it would be, and it definitely takes a much greater fitness level to close between 6:30 pm and 6:30 am winds were. climb it in one day than in two. As much for rockfall control. If we left then, we Even though we were tired and the as people like to play down how hard it would get no sleep and arrive too early trail was steep, we paced ourselves and is, the last climb, at over 3,000 meters, to hike the mountain (our permit was kept going – one step at a time, until we is a tough test for anyone. only valid for the 18th). If we left after were finally on top of Taiwan! The best part about this hike is 6:30 am the following morning, we the perspective the climb gave me. would get there too late, because hikers SUCCESS! Sometimes we get so caught up in the that arrive later than 10 am at Paiyun We could see a sea of clouds and task at hand, we forget to stop, take a Lodge (near the 9 kilometer mark) will high mountain peaks in every direction. step back and appreciate how far we’ve not be allowed to press on to the main It was only from this perspective, come. This isn’t just true for climbing, peak. This nightly road closing only 3,952 meters up, that we could really but also for every day of our lives. started last year with the advent of the appreciate the full beauty of where we Labor Standards Act, because the road were – instead of the trail in front of us. crews have less manpower to keep the We took time for photos, as well as roads open for longer at night. taking a rest before our descent. But So we set off for the trailhead that the weather was perfect at the top and evening before the road closed, and coming down, so we were lucky in that started hiking at 1 am, full of energy, regard. yet unable to see any of the scenery in the darkness that surrounded us. A LONG WALK HOME Before we knew it, the sun was already The most mentally draining part out. The first 9 km or so to Paiyun for me was the walk back. This was Lodge was mostly an easy and smooth probably because I didn’t recognize climb. After that it got tougher. anything, as we had hiked up in the During that final section, there was dark. I didn’t understand why it seemed 550 meters of vertical ascent to climb so much longer than our hike in the over a short distance of 2.4 km, which early morning. I found myself almost means it was really steep in places. hallucinating, and every half-kilometer At this point, the lack of oxygen was seemed to last a lifetime. getting to me and I started to feel a bit I felt as though I had lost control sick. Our pace was very slow going up, of my body and was watching myself and on the last 200 meters we rested at walk down the trail. This was partly just about every switchback. It felt like due to lack of sleep and fatigue, but the top of the mountain was laughing at also because of my urge to get off the us from afar. mountain as soon as possible. Trent Jackson has spent over Toward the end the route was almost However, as we stopped to rest, ten years studying Chinese, vertical in places; we scrambled up the I had time to notice the beautiful four of which have been while rock with as much agility as we could ancient forest and mountain scenery living in Taiwan. Currently he is manage. This proved challenging as the surrounding me. About halfway down, I working at Grant T hornton, an higher we climbed, the stronger the decided to not pay any more attention international accounting firm in Taipei.

www.communitycenter.org.tw APRIL 2018 29

April 2018_p3-end.indd 29 2018/3/26 下午7:13 TRAVEL

RICHARD SAUNDERS EXPLORES TAIWAN'S LESS-TRODDEN PATHS Wannian Gorge

TEXT & IMAGES: RICHARD SAUNDERS

of little waterfalls and water slides and through deep pools before finally plummeting over the much bigger drop of Dragon Phoenix Waterfall at the end. Above the gorge, the stream can be traced up (keep left at junctions) to the foot of the tall Tongxin Waterfall. Getting to either waterfall unfortunately requires river tracing skill and experience, but for less ambitious visitors, Wannian Gorge (the name means “ten thousand years”, although it was probably created over a much longer period of time) is certainly fascinating and beautiful enough to warrant the slightly protracted journey out here!

hat’s Taiwan’s biggest tourist attraction? Some would say the National W Palace Museum, others maybe Taiwan 101, even though it’s long since ceased to be the world’s tallest building. In fact it’s generally considered not to be any of these, but Taroko Gorge instead. And while Wannian Gorge is described in more passing through its narrowest, most detail in Taiwan 101 volume 2, on spectacular section, goggling up at the pages 149-50. those incredible sheer walls of rock, it’s hard to disagree that this is the most incredible thing most visitors to Taiwan will ever see. Taiwan actually does gorges and canyons very well, with a few other magnificent (if much less well-known) examples that in Taiwan fits the adage that small is bear comparison. Nantou County’s beautiful better than Wannian Gorge almost legendary Taiji Canyon springs (萬年峽谷) in central-southern Yunlin immediately to mind, and some of the County. For several hundred meters deep defiles cut by countless streams a large mountain stream here has and rivers in the remote central cut deeply into the rocky riverbed highlands are truly spectacular, yet have (exposing one of Taiwan’s finest fossil been barely explored by man. beds in the process) to create a small However, size isn’t the only but stunning gorge through the solid consideration of course, and no place rock. The stream plunges over a series

Richard Saunders is a trained classical musician and writer who has lived in Taipei since 1993. He has written several books (available at the Center and in bookshops around Taipei), including Yangmingshan: the Guide (a complete guide to the National Park on Taipei’s doorstep), Taipei Escapes I and 2, which together detail sixty day trips and hikes within easy reach of Taipei city, and The Islands of Taiwan, a guide to Taiwan’s offshore islands. His latest book, Taiwan 101: Essential Hikes, Sights and Experiences around Ilha Formosa, is out now.

30 APRIL 2018 www.communitycenter.org.tw

April 2018_p3-end.indd 30 2018/3/26 下午7:11 CSC BUSINESS CLASSIFIED

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Apr 18 cover.indd 3 2018/3/25 下午10:12 T he Great Getaway