SATURDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2014

Trip Tips Reunion - the volcanic jewel of the Indian Ocean

link and you will miss it. On a map, that small dot in the tled in the Cirque of Mafate, is a great way to experience more Back in your car, don’t forget to stop to catch a view of the Riviere Indian Ocean between Madagascar and Mauritius is the rugged tourism. From Marla, the trekker can head to Trois Roches, des Remparts on the way. Head down to Cap Mechant, another Bisland of Reunion, created by the eruptions of a now dor- a stunning place to have a break and lunch. Don’t worry about beauty spot but also the name of a terrific restaurant in Saint mant volcano. This French overseas department is one of ’s being disturbed by noise. Mafate can only be accessed by foot or Philippe. The fresh palm heart salad is a delight, followed by “cari best kept secrets but for those willing to make the 10 1/2-hour air. There are no roads. poulet”, a chicken curry which comes with a spicy “rougail tomate” flight from Paris and happy not to just sit on a gorgeous beach, it Reunion’s third Cirque, , has its own character. Situated sauce and peas. For the afternoon siesta, head to the various offers rugged scenery, an occasional eruption from an active vol- to the east, it has set world records for rainfalls and is resplendent beaches. La Saline, plage de l’Hermitage, is a tranquil place to hang cano and memorable and distinctive cuisine. with lush vegetation. Going via the village of Hell Bourg, having out after any long walk. For the “aperitif”, feast on fried “bonbons- The date of the island’s discovery is a matter of conjecture. It stopped off at the Voile de la Mariee waterfall on the way, head for piments”, fried finger food made of dried peas, chilis, onions and wasn’t until 1663 that Reunion was permanently inhabited, with the forest of Belouve. While you could cheat and drive up to the spices. the population now reaching almost 900,000. The island is a melt- gate of Belouve, a walk through the forest is beautiful and reward- Also available are samosas and “bouchons”, Reunion’s version ing pot of culture and colours with many inhabitants descended ing. Once there, head for the Trou de Fer, or Iron Hole, which is of Chinese dumplings, as well “sarcives”, which is pork marinated in from Africans, Chinese, Indians and French. This in turn produces some 300 m (900 ft) deep and sometimes called “the Everest” of soy sauce, honey and the anise liqueur pastis. Follow this with chop some amazing cuisine, of which more below, that should not be canyons. suey or a “chouchou gratin”, a baked dish made with the gourd missed. But to build up an appetite for those taste sensations, called chayote or mirliton in English. If you have room, finish off Reunion offers some great treks. The volcano created three Across the land with a “bonbon-cravate”, a sweet fried dough in the shape of a “Cirques” - Mafate, Salazie and , often described as natural For visitors seeking more sedate outings, a good way to see bow-tie, or a rolled, cream-filled “chemin de fer” cake. If you have amphitheatres - that surround the , the island’s much of the island is to drive from Saint-Denis to the Piton de la time, stay a night near the Observatory of Makes. The absence of highest peak. Walking or biking through the Cirques yields up Fournaise, Reunion’s active volcano, via the lush Plaine des light pollution makes Reunion one of the most breathtaking places some amazing views of the island, the sky and the countryside. The Palmistes and the dry and dusty Plaine des Sables, which looks like in the world to watch stars. There are so many, it seems like they Col du Taibit that straddles the Cirques of Mafate and Cialos is the something from a dystopian movie. have been painted on the dome of the universe. — Reuters ideal place to get a panoramic view of the two. Go for the sun rise, but wrap up as temperatures can plummet to minus territory. The climb to the top of the Piton can be haz- Get walking ardous but going to Formica Leo, a small volcanic cone at the bot- For sportier types, an overnight stay in the village of Marla, nes- tom of the Pas de Bellecombe, will feel like an achievement in itself.