The estate of leading Pinot Grigio producer Marco Felluga in Friuli’s Collio DOC

ITALY’S• Signature WHITE PINOT GRIGIO IMPRESSES IN A RANGE OF STYLES / By Alison Napjus

inot Grigio holds a firm place in the hearts of American (88 points, $17) at his Bastianich in Friuli. “It produces some lovers. This light, crisp white from northeastern of the most insipid, watery -by-the-glass found in restaurants is virtually ubiquitous on restaurant wine lists and and retailers from coast to coast. But in the noblest of northeastern retail shelves. In terms of sales and consumption, only Italian , Pinot Grigio can produce wines of profound miner- and surpass its popu- ality, with pronounced yet not overstated fruit, and with acidity to Plarity in the U.S., according to Wine Spectator sister publication spare. This long-lost genetic cousin of the great needs Impact Databank, and with nearly 12 million cases arriving stateside only to suffer in elevated and climatically suited vineyards to pro- in 2019, it is by far the most-imported . Of the more than duce world-class white wines that taste of the dirt they grow in.” 250 Italian whites reviewed by Wine Spectator over the past year, Pinot Grigio is the Italian moniker for ’s Pinot Gris. As roughly 25% were Pinot Grigios, more than any other variety. the most widely planted white in Italy, it is found in vine- Yet our familiarity with Pinot Grigio can sometimes obscure what yards throughout the boot, but approximately three-quarters of its the grape is capable of. “Pinot Grigio, the ‘perceived’ generic, am- acreage is concentrated in three regions: , Friuli–Venezia- ber-skinned grape, is actually a king in pauper’s clothes,” says Joe Giulia and –Alto Adige. Each region produces examples Bastianich, who co-owns dozens of Italian restaurants and created that are surprisingly distinctive from one another, showcasing a the minerally Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali Vini Orsone 2018 much broader stylistic spectrum than many consumers realize.

APRIL 30, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 75 The entry point for Italian Pinot Grigio is the Delle Venezie DOC, an appellation allowing production from vineyards through- out all of the Veneto and Friuli–Venezia-Giulia regions, as well as from the southern Trentino portion of the Trentino–Alto Adige region. In total, the large production area of the DOC spans more than 67,000 acres of vineyards. Delle Venezie bottlings are the most widely available examples of Pinot Grigio, epitomizing the light, quaffable whites typically associated with the variety. At their best, Delle Venezie Pinot Grigios are good value, sip- pable whites; at their worst, they are lackluster and innocuous. In general, capturing site- or even regional-specificity is not a priority for these wines. Aiming to preserve acidity, many growers Pinot Grigio early, sometimes at the expense of maturity in this late-ripening variety. Production regulations for Delle Venezie, such as yields at harvest, are less stringent than in Italy’s other Pinot Grigio–producing areas. Yet top versions from this DOC illustrate what draws wine lov- ers to Pinot Grigio in the first place. The wines are light-bodied and tangy, great accompaniments on warm summer days for picnics, grilling and other activities. The best are balanced and accessible, with pleasing apple, citrus or stone fruit flavors, with floral and stone

accents. Carrying price tags of around $15 or less per bottle, they Peter Zemmer produces outstanding Pinot Grigio at his family winery in Alto Adige, can be enjoyed by both novice wine drinkers and connoisseurs alike. using various types of to give his wine richness and elegance. From my recent tastings, I recommend two benchmark examples: Zenato’s bright, lithe Main Pinot Grigio-Growing Wine Regions of Italy Because Pinot Grigio is relatively a low- Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 2019 (87, $15) acid grape, most producers use stainless- Alto Adige DOC Friuli- and Santa Cristina’s zippy Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Venezia- steel fermentation to create the vertical Giulia Delle Venezie 2019 (86, $13). style referenced by Walch; this helps to

Friuli Colli maintain the wine’s acidic backbone and Orientali lto Adige, the northern half of the Trentino DOC allows its delicate flavors to shine. But the AREA Trentino–Alto Adige region, is OF DETAIL Veneto Collio DOC introduction of oak to Pinot Grigio’s vinifi- Awhere a fan of Pinot Grigio goes VENICE cation or aging regimens is not uncommon, when they’re ready to move beyond the in- particularly among high quality examples. troductory examples. This stunning alpine Delle Venezie DOC The oak imparts richness and adds some area features mountain peaks topping weight and textural finesse to the finished 10,000 feet, with vineyards on the lower-lying foothill slopes and wine. For Walch’s Castel Ringberg bottling, 15% was fermented in down to the valley floor, which follows the Adige River. Though French oak barriques, rounding out this expressive version. Alto Adige is a cool-climate region, it also enjoys a Mediterranean Peter Zemmer, proprietor of his family estate, made one of the influence, from the neighboring Lake Garda and the Adriatic Sea. year’s top wines, the Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Giatl Riserva 2017 Most versions from Alto Adige are light- to medium-bodied, lithe (91, $38), by sourcing from individual sites and fermenting and racy, still matching the “standard” Pinot Grigio profile. But I them entirely in small French oak casks. After vinification, the wine find them to be more expressive, consistently delivering a greater was aged for a year in large oak barrels, a crucial production detail range of flavor and a more pronounced mineral presence, with a for Zemmer: “[It] rests for a long time on the fine yeast, gaining pleasingly creamy texture. They’re great sipping wines, but they also complexity and density.” The resulting wine is polished and elegant, pair well with light fare and many poultry- or seafood-based meals. with rich pineapple, pastry cream, spice and mineral flavors. Karoline Walch, of her family’s Elena Walch winery, credits the area’s limestone soils and the unique, lake-influenced microclimate he final piece in the Pinot Grigio puzzle includes versions from of the estate’s Castel Ringberg as key to the success of the the Friuli–Venezia-Giulia region, where the grape can be pro- Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Vigna Castel Ringberg 2019 (90, $28). Tduced as a bottling in a number of named IGT and “It is the salinity and depth that distinguish it from many other DOC appellations. But it is particularly esteemed from the hilly wines within the category,” says Walch. “At the same time, we’re vineyards of the smaller Collio and Friuli Colli Orientali DOCs, preserving acidity—being vertical in style, which is typical for the where the mineral-rich soils strongly impact the finished wines. cool-climate and mineral-driven Pinot Grigios from Alto Adige.” “The local soil, called ponca, which is a solidified clay of marl and sandstone, produces the balance between freshness and all-around FREE ALPHABETICAL LIST fullness that is representative of Pinot Grigio from Friuli,” explains Get scores and prices for nearly 75 wines reviewed Jermann owner and winemaker Silvio Jermann, referring to both for this report WineSpectator.com/PinotGrigioAlpha043021 the Collio and Friuli Colli Orientali DOCs. The estate consistently

76 WINE SPECTATOR • APRIL 30, 2021 TASTING REPORT | PINOT GRIGIO

produces highly rated Pinot Grigio, and its Pinot Grigio Friuli 2018 Sea and the Julian Prealps—are the extra value of this variety in (91, $24) is a crisp and minerally example. Collio,” says Roberto Felluga, owner of Marco Felluga. His mineral- Friuli’s best hillside vineyards offer a dramatic view of the valley infused Pinot Grigio Collio Russiz Superiore 2018 (90, $29), with floor below and the Adriatic Sea beyond, while the Julian Prealps hints of stone and smoke wafting through, was fermented mainly provide a protective layer from cold northern winds. The conti- in stainless steel, with 15% in barrel. “Thanks to its body, struc- nental climate and lower-yielding older vines help promote the ture, fruit, flavor, minerality and longevity, [Collio Pinot Grigio] development of Pinot Grigio with greater concentration and is able to stand out from those produced in other Italian areas.” weight. Many bottlings from Friuli are solidly medium-bodied, and Italy has much to offer for lovers of white wine, with bottlings though still fresh, they show less of the delicate crispness found in of unique grapes from Arneis to Zibbibo. But the familiar Pinot lighter-bodied versions. Instead, Friulian Pinot Grigio offers a tenser Grigio continues to top the leaderboard for its ability to deliver spine of acidity, which works along with the wine’s minerality to consistently in a range of styles. From light and crisp to rich and balance a more concentrated range of flavors. I recommend these creamy, this delicious white earns a place in glasses and on tables versions with food, including richer and more robust pairings. in a wide variety of settings. “The [local Pinot Grigio] biotypes, together with the soil and Senior editor Alison Napjus is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on the wines the microclimate—influenced by the proximity to the Adriatic of northeastern Italy.

Alison Napjus’ Recommended Pinot Grigios Nearly 75 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/PinotGrigioAlpha043021. WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

LIVIO FELLUGA Pinot Grigio Collio 2018 91 $27 ELENA WALCH Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 90 $28 Svelte and elegant, offering lightly mouthwatering acidity and a streak Vigna Castel Ringberg 2019 of minerality, layered with a creamy mix of pineapple, ginger, almond A round white, with bright acidity enlivening the nectarine, green blossom and Meyer lemon zest flavors. melon, pickled ginger, almond, stony mineral and anise flavors.

JERMANN Pinot Grigio Friuli 2018 91 $24 ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 89 $22 This crisp, minerally version offers a detailed range of Meyer lemon Valle Isarco 2019 zest, apricot, kiwifruit and spicy mineral flavors set in a sleek frame, Tangy acidity creates a lip-smacking frame for this lithe, minerally ending with a zippy finish. white, with notes of mirabelle plum, pink grapefruit sorbet and stone.

PETER ZEMMER Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Giatl Riserva 2017 91 $38 LA TUNELLA Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali 2018 89 $22 This fragrant white is round and balanced, with a lovely range of juicy This mouthwatering white has a pronounced minerality, with smoke pineapple, star anise, pickled ginger and lime blossom enriched by and saline notes underscoring pear, lemon curd and chamomile. hints of pastry cream and lemon curd. BASTIANICH Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali 88 $17 COLUTTA Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali 2018 90 $20 Vini Orsone 2018 Charming and well-balanced, with sleek acidity and expressive notes Almond and citrus notes are layered with a salty undertow, showing of apple, almond and minerally saline that show a rich touch of pastry. baked pear, pastry cream and dried tarragon flavors, with a floral finish.

MARCO FELLUGA Pinot Grigio Collio Russiz Superiore 2018 90 $29 ST.-MICHAEL-EPPAN Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 2018 88 $19 Hints of smoke and stone waft through this tangy, lightly creamy A snappy, minerally white, offering a creamy mix of yellow pear, white white, accenting apple, citrus and almond notes, with a zesty finish. pepper and lemon pith notes.

J. HOFSTÄTTER Pinot Grigio Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2018 90 $19 TERLATO Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali 2019 88 $24 Like biting into a ripe Gala apple, this is honeyed and crisp, with a A lithe, fresh white, with a stony undertow to pleasing flavors of green zesty chime of stony minerality driving through to the creamy finish. melon and peach skin, showing a touch of pink grapefruit pith.

SANT’ELENA Pinot Grigio Friuli Isonzo Rive Alte 2018 90 $24 TIEFENBRUNNER Pinot Grigio Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2018 88 $19 An expressive white, with a zesty overtone to the flavors of pineapple, This white is creamy in texture and backed by lively, citrus-laced Thai basil and pink grapefruit sorbet. Lightly mouthwatering. acidity, offering notes of apple, pickled ginger and spring blossom.

STURM Pinot Grigio Collio 2018 90 $23 BIDOLI Pinot Grigio Grave del Friuli 2018 87 $13 A finely knit version, with minerally stone and chalk notes that under- An aromatic version, with notes of nectarine and grated ginger, score delicate flavors of apple, ginger, almond and spring blossom. showing a hint of grapefruit pith aligned with lively acidity.

TORRE ROSAZZA Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali 2019 90 $28 ZENATO Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 2019 87 $15 This round white is lithe and lively, with a vibrant backbone of acidity, Bright and lithe, this mouthwatering white offers pineapple and offering flavors of yellow plum, anise and Meyer lemon curd. nectarine fruit layered with hints of saline, spice and fresh herbs.

CANTINA TRAMIN Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Unterebner 2018 90 $35 LA LOT Pinot Grigio Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2019 86 $11 Appealing notes of apple, star fruit and nectarine are layered with A zesty white, with a stony undertow and lively flavors of poached juicy acidity and spicy mineral underpinnings in this well-knit white. pear, Mandarin orange and almond.

VIE DI ROMANS Pinot Grigio Friuli Isonzo Dessimis 2017 90 $38 SANTA CRISTINA Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 2019 86 $13 Pale copper in color, with an aromatic profile of ginger, cardamom A zippy white, with a refreshing mix of yellow peach and kiwifruit and graphite, showing baked cherry and blood orange peel flavors. accented by fresh tarragon and pink grapefruit zest.

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