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Why Go? Sights ...... 39 Everyone knows about ’s coast and islands, but a Activities...... 50 mention of the country’s capital still draws the confused Tours ...... 50 question: ‘Is it worth going to?’ Here is the answer: is a great destination, with lots of culture, arts, music, ar- Festivals & Events ...... 52 chitecture, gastronomy and all the other things that make Sleeping ...... 53 a quality capital. Eating ...... 54 V isually, Zagreb is a mixture of straight-laced Austro- Drinking ...... 57 Hungarian architecture and rough-around-the-edges so- Entertainment ...... 58 cialist structures, its character a sometimes uneasy combi- Shopping ...... 60 nation of these two elements. This mini metropolis is made Mt ...... 63 for strolling the streets, drinking coff ee in the permanently full cafes, popping into museums and galleries, and enjoy- Karlovac ...... 63 ing the theatres, concerts and cinema. It’s a year-round Samobor ...... 65 outdoor city: in spring and summer everyone scurries to Lake in the southwest to swim, boat or dance the night away at lakeside discos, while in autumn and winter Best Places to Eat Zagrebians go skiing at Mt Medvednica, only a tram ride away, or hiking in nearby Samobor. » V i n o d o l ( p 5 4 ) » Tip Top (p 55 ) When to Go » A m f o r a ( p 5 5 ) Zagreb » M a n o ( p 5 5 ) °C/°F Te m p Rainfall Inches/mm 30/86 8/200

Best Places to 20/68 6/150 Stay 10/50 4/100 » Regent Esplanade Zagreb (p 53 ) 0/32 2/50

» Arcotel Allegra (p53 ) -10/14 0 » P a l a c e H o t e l ( p 5 3 ) J FDNOSAJJMAM » Hotel Dubrovnik (p53 ) April & May The June Some of September & city takes off its Zagreb’s best fes- October People winter coat and tivals liven up its return from pavement cafes streetscapes and holidays and the become a beehive provide plenty of city buzzes with of activity. cultural fodder. summer energy. History its capital (see p287 ). Although Pavelić ran Zagreb’s known history begins in medieval his fascist state from Zagreb until 1944, 39 times with two hills: Kaptol, now the site he never enjoyed a great deal of support of Zagreb’s , and Gradec. When within the capital, which maintained sup- the two merged in the mid-16th century, port for Tito’s Partisans. Zagreb was born. In postwar Yugoslavia, Zagreb (to its The space now known as Trg Josipa chagrin) took second place to Belgrade but

Jelačića became the site of Zagreb’s lu- continued to expand. Zagreb was made the ZAGREB SIGHTS crative trade fairs, spurring construction capital of Croatia in 1991, the same year around its edges. In the 19th century the that the country became independent. economy expanded with the development of a prosperous clothing trade and a rail link 1 Sights SIGHTS connecting Zagreb with Vienna and Buda- As the oldest part of Zagreb, the Upper pest. The city’s cultural life blossomed, too. Town (Gornji Grad), which includes the Zagreb also became the centre for the Il- neighbourhoods of Gradec and Kaptol, has lyrian movement (see p 285 ). Count Janko landmark buildings and churches from Drašković, lord of Trakošćan Castle, pub- the earlier centuries of Zagreb’s history. lished a manifesto in Illyrian in 1832 and The Lower Town (Donji Grad), which runs his call for a national revival resounded between the Upper Town and the train throughout Croatia. Drašković’s dream station, has the city’s most interesting art came to fruition when Croatia and its capi- museums and fi ne examples of 19th- and tal joined the Kingdom of Serbs, and 20th-century architecture. Slovenes after WWI. Between the two world wars, working- UPPER TOWN class neighbourhoods emerged in of the Assumption of the between the railway and the River, Blessed Virgin Mary CHURCH and new residential quarters were built (Katedrala Marijina Uznešenja; Kaptol; h10am- on the southern slopes of Mt Medvednica. 5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun) Kaptol Sq is domi- In April 1941 the Germans invaded Yugo- nated by this cathedral, formerly known slavia and entered Zagreb without resis- as St Stephen’s. Its twin spires – seemingly tance. Ante Pavelić and the Ustaše moved permanently under repair – soar over the quickly to proclaim the establishment of city. Construction began in the second half the Independent State of Croatia (Neza- of the 13th century, following the prototype visna Država Hrvatska), with Zagreb as of the Church of St Urban in Troyes, France.

ZAGREB IN…

Two Days Start your day with a stroll through Strossmayerov trg, Zagreb’s oasis of greenery. Take a look at the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters and then walk to Trg Josipa Jelačića, the city’s centre. Head up to Kaptol Square for a look at the Cathedral, the centre of Zagreb’s religious life. While in the Upper Town, pick up some fruit at the or have lunch at Kerempuh. Then get to know the work of Croatia’s best sculptor at Meštrović Atelier and see its naïve art legacy at the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art or the contemporary art exhibition at Galerija Klovićevi Dvori. See the lay of the city from the top of Lotrščak Tower, then spend the evening bar-crawling along Tkalčićeva. On the second day, tour the Lower Town museums, reserving two hours for the Mu- seum Mimara. Lunch at Tip Top and digest in the Botanical Garden. Early evening is best at Preradovićev trg before dining and sampling some of Zagreb’s nightlife. Four Days Your third day should take in the lovely Mirogoj , with a stop at or Park. On day four, take a trip out to Samobor for a big dose of small-town charm.