Hex Appeal Bubble, Bubble, Toil and Trouble
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LAUDER TO PUMP UP OVERSEAS/4 DIOR LANDS IN ISTANBUL/13 WWDWomen’sWomen’s Wear DaiDailylyyWEDNESDAY • TThehe RetailRetailers’e Daily Newspaper • May 7, 2008 • $2.00 Sportswear Hex Appeal Bubble, bubble, toil and trouble. Fall eveningwear is full of black-magic moments. Here, one example: Chado Ralph Rucci’s braided leather dress with witchy vulture-feather accents. Jennifer Ouellette headband; Baccarat ring; Wolford hosiery; Viktor & Rolf shoes. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Barneys Loves Target: Retailing’s Odd Couple Takes Marketing Leap By Sharon Edelson , BOTH AT DEFACTO; SET DESIGN BY KATHERINE RUSCH; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY AND ANTONIA SARDONE KIM FRIDAY RUSCH; STYLED BY KATHERINE SET DESIGN BY DEFACTO; , BOTH AT NEW YORK — Talk about strange bedfellows. The teaming of Target Corp. and Barneys New York has to be one of the oddest pairings in recent fashion history. The mass market purveyor of everything from diapers and lightbulbs to blenders and dog food will introduce its eco-friendly Rogan for Target’s Go International line at Barneys’ Madison Avenue flagship on Friday until Sunday, and then at Barneys’ Los Angeles store from May 16 to 18. Barneys will limit purchases to three pieces. The line will only be in stock for five days and, after that, shoppers will have to wait for the See Mass, Page14 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODEL: DANIELLE ZARAGOZA/ID; HAIR BY CHRISTY MCCABE USING KERASTASE PARIS AND MAKEUP BY VALERY GHERMAN VALERY AND MAKEUP BY PARIS CHRISTY MCCABE USING KERASTASE HAIR BY CENTENO; MODEL: DANIELLE ZARAGOZA/ID; TALAYA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 7, 2008 WWD.COM Maidenform, DKI Sign Licensing Deal WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear By Karyn Monget opportunities in the women’s in- Meanwhile, DKI is expected timate apparel segment.” to sign a second licensing agree- he DKNY and Donna Karan Thomas J. Ward, ceo of ment soon with The Komar Co. FASHION Moody hues provide the base of evening’s enchanted potion, while a Tintimate apparel brands will 85-year-old Maidenform, which Komar offi cials confi rmed they have a new home for spring 2009 posted sales of $422.2 million are in negotiations with DKI to 6 dash of feathers, lace or tulle completes the witchy recipe. at Maidenform Brands Inc. last year, said, “This relation- produce, source and distribute Maidenform has signed a ship allows us to penetrate key sleepwear bearing the DKNY GENERAL global licensing deal with Donna channels of distribution and pro- and Donna Karan names. In an odd pairing, Target and Barneys New York have teamed up for the Karan International to design, vides us with another method to Maidenform officials said eco-friendly Rogan for Target’s Go International line. source and market full collec- drive additional sales growth in they will review the brand equi- 1 tions of intimates for women the future.” ty and growth opportunities for Strength abroad helped the Estée Lauder Cos. drive up third-quarter bearing the DKNY and Donna In addition to Maidenform, the DKNY and Donna Karan in- 4 sales, but softness in the U.S. resulted in a dip in profi ts. Karan names. Maidenform is the company’s portfolio of nerwear businesses during the MAINSTREAM: Young professionals blend their tastes with that of their already showing product to re- brands includes Lilyette, Sweet company’s fi rst-quarter earnings mothers to come up with Mother’s Day gifts that span two generations. tailers during this week’s inner- Nothings, Rendezvous, Subtract, results conference call today. 8 wear market. Bodymates and Self Expressions, For the fi rst quarter ended The Commerce Department said it again didn’t fi nd enough evidence Terms of the transaction were all of which are sold in about 60 March 29, income fell 43 per- 15 that Vietnam dumped apparel into the U.S. at unfairly low prices. not disclosed. Both collections countries and territories. cent to $6 million, or 26 cents WEST: Paige Premium Denim is launching its fi rst contemporary will be distributed to upscale Wacoal America had been a diluted share, from $10.6 mil- offshoot, Paige Black Label, featuring better fabrics and classic styles. department and specialty stores designing, sourcing and dis- lion, or 44 cents, in the same 16 worldwide. tributing the licensed Donna year-ago period. Sales dropped Mark Weber, chief executive Karan Intimates collection since 8.5 percent to $98.1 million from EYE offi cer of parent company LVMH 1992, and introduced DKNY $107.2 million. The company in The “Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy” gala at the Metropolitan Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Underwear in 1999. The DKNY March projected lower sales for 10 Museum of Art Monday night was no mortal feat. Inc. (U.S.) and chairman and ceo Underwear license with Wacoal the quarter because of a nonre- Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................17-19 of Donna Karan International, expires at the end of the year, curring private brand program a said, “Maidenform’s proven com- said Richard Murray, president year ago with a specialty retail- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. mitment to product innovation of Wacoal America. He said the er, as well as the overall retail [email protected], using the individual’s name. and building brand equity will DKI line had not been produced environment that Maidenform WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT help us maximize our expansion for several seasons. described as “challenging.” ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 97. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Adidas Awarded $305M in Suit Against Payless Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: By Evan Clark and Ellen Groves However, Canton, Mass.-based Reebok return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: International Ltd. again failed to achieve growth. SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE legal battle between Adidas AG and Payless While Adidas revenues increased 8 percent to 1.97 INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit A ShoeSource over parallel stripes resulted in a billion euros, or $2.95 billion, sales of Reebok goods www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new huge win for Adidas: a jury award of $305 million. fell 13 percent to 454 million euros, or $680 million. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, Charlie Henn, a partner at the Kilpatrick On a currency-neutral basis, Adidas’ sales grew 14 please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Stockton LLP law fi rm that represented Adidas, percent, while Reebok’s declined 6 percent. Hainer Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list said the jury award from a federal court in Portland said the group is still repositioning Reebok, work- available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA included roughly $30 million in actual damages, ing to improve its point-of-sale impact and clean up 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, $137 million for profi ts Payless made on the infring- its distribution. Tough retail environments in the OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, ing goods and $137 million in U.S. and the U.K., Reebok’s BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR punitive damages. two key markets, have not CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR “Our belief is that this is helped that ongoing repo- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY the largest award ever in a sitioning, he said. In the A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. trademark case,” said Henn. quarter, Adidas recorded He noted the judge has dis- strong sales growth in all re- cretion to tweak the amount gions except North America, and might raise the award. where revenues declined In Brief “The jury in this case sent 17 percent to 578 million a very clear message to com- euros, or $865.7 million, due panies that are engaged in to lower sales at both Adidas ● BLOOMINGDALE’S PROMOTES EXECS: Bloomingdale’s has the practice of selling knock- and Reebok.