P-OP-O Life LifeLife inin thethe Pyrénées-Orientales Pyrénées Orientales

Out for the Day Winter Sun & Dynamite Festivals & Traditions Pancake Day!

Améliorez votre Anglais WINTER 2012 AND Test your French FREE / GRATUIT Nº 38 Your English Speaking Services Directory www.anglophone-direct.com Fond perdu 31/10/11 9:11 Page 1 Edito...

Register for our Joyeux Anniversaire free weekly newsletter, and stay up to date with WINDOWS, DOORS, SHUTTERS & CONSERVATORIES life in the Pyrénées-Orientales. P-O Life! www.anglophone -direct.com Installing the very best since 1980 You’re eight years old this year!! I don’t know where the time has gone… but I do know that I owe a massive ‘thank you’ to thousands of loyal readers, and Call or visit our showroom to talk some great writers and contributors who have supported with our English speaking experts. We also design both the web site, the magazine and its advertisers over the and install beautiful years. Without you we would quite simply not exist. Unrivalled 30 year guarantee conservatories. I would love P-O Life to become a community magazine, written and produced by readers for readers. Would you be interested No obligation free quotation – Finance available subject to status in joining a small group of intrepid adventurers looking to take P-O Life forward into the unknown? We would love to hear from amateur writers, photographers, designers, IT geeks, anybody with enthusiasm, ideas and suggestions, with a view to getting together some time in 2013 and reaching for the stars - or at least the top of Canigo! In this edition, Mike Rhodes walks us through the Capcir Valley, John Fairclough brings us up to date with our dwindling flight choices, Simon Newman tells of honkers and bonkers in Canet, Paul Cartmell dines in front of a roaring fire, and Katja Willemsen heads off in search of perfect picnic spots. As for me, well, I skip about here, there and everywhere! Wishing you a Happy, Healthy and Lucky winter season here in our beautiful region Fins aviats Kate Contact us Advertising Magazine gratuit. Tout Droits réservés, e name To find out more about how your Reproduction interdite Unrivalled range you can trust business can benefit from advertising in Impression: Imprimerie du Mas Tirage: 9000 ex of high security PO Life and Anglophone Direct contact Ne pas jeter sur la voie publique - Anglophonedirect Michelle on 06 12 22 23 70 (advertising only) accepts no responsibility for the competency of windows people and services advertising in PO Life. [email protected] Concepteur et rédacteur: Kate www.tryba.com Editorial Maquette & Création: For editorial queries & comment www.blyth-spirit.com tel: 04 68 05 86 71 [email protected] 2 09 64 48 51 86 (editorial only) Cover photo: Peter Spencer Next to “Le Clos des Lys” restaurant and the car dealerships P-OLife... Out for the day Col l’Ouillat, Pic Neoulous…...... 30-31 Index Dynamite at Paulilles...... 32-33 P-O Life distribution points...... 5 Pretty Perfect P-O Picnics ...... 34-35 Walk the region le Capcir valley ...... 6-7 Les Bains de LLo...... 36-37 Did you know?...... 8-9 When skiing’s not enough...... 38-39 Airport News...... 10 Back to fitness...... 41 The Trabucayres ...... 11 Test your French...... 42-45 Pink flamingos of Canet St Nazaire...... 12-13 Améliorez votre Anglais...... 46-47 Traditions & Events...... 14-17 French Life Food & drink (Don’t) Kiss me Kate...... 50-51 Restaurant review: Auberge Can Joan...... 18-19 Book Life...... 52-53 Spicy tuna pasta...... 22 Things you might need to know...... 54-55 Rose hip Syrup...... 24 A Matter of Life and Death...... 57 Food glorious food...... 25 Emergency numbers...... 59 The Beer Necessities...... 28 English Speaking Services...... 60-63

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b3_Alu_Bronze_0210_148x210_4c_C_EN.indd 1 21.05.12 15:52 Walktheregion... DespiteIsn’t its French it ironic?origins, Britain is Angles Formiguères road. the only European country to measure LE Capcir valley Just across the road take a track to the R, which distance in miles instead of kilometres. leads to another wide track in 250m. Signs take The word ‘mile’ actually comes from the lesieta de Vallserra you straight across and a good track takes you in French ‘mille’, (1000) , and was based on the Roman mile, equivalent to one another 1500m around Formiguères to a campsite. Turn left before the site and climb for 100m to a thousand double paces. track alongside a canal. Follow the canal to the right for 800m to a track which climbs gently to the left for another 1500m through the forest. Here we join a wide fire track and signs point to the right to Les Iglesiettes and Lac Balcère. Take a note of this path junction as we will need to return here later but follow the track for a few hundred meters, across a small bridge and the ruined remains of the Eglise Santa Maria come into view. (See Page 8 - Did you know) Looking up the valley, the ski slopes of Les Angles are visible and the area around the church is a perfect picnic spot in this sheltered valley. with Mike Rhodes My route retraces its steps, but it is also possible to return by several different routes including following This super 13k walk in the Capcir valley, near Les Angles, is suitable for all the family, and, subject to the signs to Lac Balcère. Our route however returns weather, can be done in summer or winter, on foot or mountain bike. to the junction taken earlier where an unmarked It will take 3 – hours in summer, but in winter, in good snow conditions this will take several hours track veers to the right. Do not take the track directly longer. Make sure of a good snow cover as some parts do get icy. As a family VTT route it will take up the hill but the one contouring gently to the left. 1 ½ - 2 hours and needs only a basic mountain bike. This comes out after 1k on another fire track. P Getting there : The start point is the Fougues VTT hire building where we turn left, and Turn to the left for 100m and follow a vague popular parking spot at the Club L’Oursan/ in 100m turn right to join a wider track, the Voie track to the right, through an electric fence and Restaurant at Lac de Matermale. (GPS co-ords- Royale which, in the Middle Ages was the main down 350m to cross another fire road, descending Pyrenean Trails Mike & Jenny Rhodes invite you to discover the 31N426010E 4714058N) at 1540m and the high crossing for the Capcir valley. This track runs straight through the trees to the Formiguères road. Cross unspoilt countryside and wildlife of the valleys, point 1705m when crossing the Serrat del Frare. for 800m until you come to the road. Cross with over and follow paths to the right, marked for Lac de ridges and frozen lakes of the wonderful Pyrenees. To get here, take the N116 from Prades to Mont care. Matemale, a further 2k. ½ day snow shoe experience just 20 euros Louis and then the D118 towards Formiguères. Continue ahead on the Voie Royale for another Summer or winter there is a good chance of (all equipment is provided) After 15 mins you will see Lac Matermale on your 1800m with great views to your right of Le Madres. seeing red deer, marmottes and in the afternoon Suitable for all ages and abilities left and at the 2nd Matermale sign, turn left and Turn around and you have equally great views perhaps sanglier. In winter the snow cover will show 04 68 04 37 28 | 06 79 10 54 53 follow signs to the lake. of Cambre D’Axe. The the tracks of all of these animals and more. This is my www.pyrenean-trails.com Map Font Romeu IGN more ‘eagle eyed’ will favourite version of the walk but many options are [email protected] 2249ET covers this area have noticed that we available, so take your map and enjoy a superb day. in 1/25000. are following VTT route P The Walk : From number 6, so keep an eye the car park, take the out for the small signs Mike Rhodes is an International Mountain Leader / Accompanateur de Montagne, path NNE, besides the which will take you to the lives all year in Les Angles and specialises in guided walks in the high mountains and road, for 500m to the left to cross the main Les Snowshoe trips in winter. He can be contacted on +33 (0)4 68 04 37 28 6 email: [email protected] web site: www.pyrenean-trails.com 7 Didyouknow...? Anything to declare? Visitors to Paulilles bay, next to the former Johnny and the Devil Sunday Shopping Nobel dynamite factory, have on occasion The twelfth century Puivert, over the border in been stopped at airport security on their way the Aude, one of the best preserved amongst the in out of the country, due to the detection of Cathar castles, was the location for 1999 film, The Awarded the title of “Ville touristique” in May minuscule dynamite particles clinging to Ninth Gate starring Johnny Depp. Based on the 2012, shops over the border in Figueres have their rucksack after a day at the beach! novel The Club Dumas by Arturo Pérez-Reverte, permission to remain open on Sundays and Johnny is a rare book dealer who is drawn into a public holidays, from March 2013. conspiracy with supernatural overtones. Spurred on by this new initiative and the Open to visitors, you can find out more at imminent completion of the TGV Figueres www.chateau-de-puivert.com Barcelona line, the mayor of Figueres, Santi Vila, has also announced the arrival of several new businesses attracted by the dynamism of this small, up-and-coming town. Let them eat cake!. Bad news of course for shops and supermarkets The tradition of eating a ‘Galette des here in north which remain resolutely Rois’ actually dates back to the 14th closed on Sunday, as shopping in Spain is century, and was said to “draw the kings” likely to take away potential business from the to the . These frangipane filled Roussillon. tarts, complete with paper crown and ‘fève’ or trinket baked inside, can be DodgyRoger de Flor was a Sicilian-born Roger! adventurer, mercenary, found in patisseries and supermarkets Prepare to be Pampered and Knight Templar, a bit of a villain, and a ladies man, throughout January, and are usually who led a force of ‘almogávares’ (Spanish mercenaries) eaten around the 6th, the twelfth day Preparatory building work has already started on The former military hospital in the town centre known as the Grand Catalan Company. One of the best of . Not surprisingly, during plans to turn the former military hospital at Amélie- was built in 1835, for soldiers returning from the known medieval works of literature in Catalan, Tirant lo the French Revolution, the name was les-Bains into a ‘centre thermo ludique’, spa and war in Algeria, and was BIG, accommodating up to Blanc, written by Valencian knight Joanot Martorell is replaced with ‘Gâteau de l’Égalité’ leisure centre, at an estimated cost of 9 million euros four hundred patients at a time. Whilst all patients based around de Flor’s life. It is believed to have influenced (equality cake), as the word ‘king’ was were pronounced ‘medically equal in the presence the work of Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote, none too popular! of disease and death’, there were nevertheless and consequently to have played an important role in the separate, more luxurious treatment areas for evolution of the novel around . Roofless officers! Lest We Forget A plague on you! Exceedingly good stories After several years of funding problems, The entire population witchesThe Pyrenees are full of stories and Did you know that Rudyard the opening of the Rivesaltes camp of the former village legends, particularly of ‘encantades’ Kipling wrote a short story memorial museum has now been of Vallsera, (Balcera) (enchantresses) and ‘bruixes’ (witches). during one of his stays in Vernet- scheduled for 1st June 2015. near les Angles, Superstitious were fearful of ‘bruixes’, landing les-Bains called ‘Why does it The memorial will be « un musée de la was wiped out by on their homes, bringing bad luck. They solved the problem snow in Vernet ? A legend of St grandeur de l’homme libre, pour un mémorial the Black Death at by building “espentes bruixes” (witch frighteners) onto the roof, a piece Saturnia’. The amusing and light- non de la défaite mais du combat, pour un the beginning of the of forged iron, a jagged tile or a tall stone to prevent the witch from hearted piece pokes fun at the musée de l’homme digne et debout. » (A XIV century, apart from making a comfortable landing. Look around on the rooftops as they English habit of talking about the musem to show how great is the free man, a two sisters, who are believed to can still be seen on the some old buildings, and builders are sometimes weather. Visit our site memorial of combat, not of defeat, a museum have donated all of the land to the commune of Les asked to build this into the roof to this very day! www.anglophone-direct.com 8 showing man dignified and standing tall) Angles. Today, all that remains are the ruins of the to read the full story 9 Eglise Santa Maria P-OLife... AIRPORT NEWS With JOHN FAIRCLOUGH

Over the past few weeks, I’ve had conversations will be the existing ones to Heathrow with BA, with a number of readers who have been kind Bristol and Gatwick with EasyJet, and Dublin with enough to alert me to one or two routes that have Aer Lingus. The only other possibility from here is to survived the seasonal axe. It’s true that airlines use the regular services of Air /KLM to either like Ryanair and Easyjet do tend, during the late Paris CDG or Amsterdam and connect to the many The Trabucayres summer, to look at their potential bookings for the UK flights from there. But, it has to be said, these are winter months, and then decide if any route could not cheap options ! In 1840, following the death of Ferdinand took refuge in the ‘grotto de be run at a profit during that period. This year has It’s a little early to consider the possibilities from VII, Don Carlos attempted to establish Salic Bassagoda’ near Las Illas. been no exception, and there have indeed been Spring 2013. I’ve spoken to Perpignan Airport, and law in Spain, so he could reign in place of the From this cave, Jean Massot, some reinstatements, but, sadly they are pretty they were more than a little non-committal about Regent Marie-Christine. Salic law was a rule 16 years old and the remaining small in number. any services from March onwards. FlyBe are listing of succession practiced in certain royal and hostage, wrote letters to his All the routes highlighted in my article in the their weekly Southampton flight on their website, noble families of Europe, forbidding females to mother, asking her to pay Autumn edition have, as far as I know, survived, so though interestingly, there’s no mention of the succeed to titles or offices within the family. 65,000 francs ransom - which these are in addition: Birmingham route. And it looks like the Barcelona This led to war between supporters of Don she did not have. Realising they to Gatwick route will offer rich pickings next year Carlos, the ‘Carlists’ and supporters of the Regent, would get no money for their CARCASSONNE ,with both BA and Vueling announcing they are the ‘Christinos’. hostage, they murdered him, Liverpool 2x pw (Ryanair) going to join EasyJet in offering flights to the The Carlist army terrorized the Vallespir, and cutting off his ears which were Sussex airport. from this army, the Trabucayres were born, later found in a basket by a BEZIERS As ever, if any of you discover any new flights bandits and highwaymen, named for the ‘trabucs’ young shepherd, and used as Luton 2x pw (Ryanair) or omissions, please let us know here at PO Life. (blunderbusses) with which they were armed. evidence. Along with their leader, Jean Simon, nicknamed Hearing of a plan by police GIRONA ‘Tocabens’ from the catalan ‘toca’ meaning and customs officers to Luton 3x pw (Ryanair) -Two elderly vultures weren’t touch, and ‘bens’ meaning well (shoot well), they capture the bandits, they sure they would make the established their headquarters in Las Illas, near fled to Mas de l’Aloy in BARCELONA trip south for winter, so they Maureillas, for its proximity to the Spanish border Corsavy, where they were Bristol 7x pw decided to go by airplane. and ease of smuggling. eventually surrounded, killed or Newcastle 3x pw At check-in, the attendant noticed In February 1845, thirteen bandits left Las Illas captured and imprisoned, first in Belfast 3x pw (All EasyJet) that they were each carrying a for Gerona where they attacked the Perpignan to Ceret, then Perpignan. After a trial London City 4x pw (BA Cityflyer) dead raccoon. “Do you wish to Barcelona coach. Passengers were terrorised and which lasted over a year, four were In the autumn report, I did imply that there check the raccoons through as robbed, and three men were taken as hostages. guillotined in Céret and Perpignan, might be some new flights involving Toulouse, luggage?” she asked. One died on the two day return walk, another was and others condemned to hard labour. particularly with the ski-ing season in mind. “No, thanks,” replied the vultures. shot when he tried to escape. Now hopefully bandit-free, there are Unfortunately my confidence was misplaced, and They split up, one group heading for Coustouges, some fantastic walks around Las Illas, in “They’re carrion. the only UK/Ire flights from the airport this winter the other, along with the remaining hostage, the tracks of the Trabucayres. 10 11 P-OLife...

seen busily spending their days wading, fighting, honking and bonking. Flamingos that is, not fishermen. Although...... no. December to February is the best time for Excellent selection of flamingo twitching at St Nazaire. That said, it can’t be guaranteed as the étang is fed by both salt and properties throughout the fresh water so the degree of salinity and hence Pyrénées-Orientales the level of marine life (i.e. flamingo food) varies a great deal depending on rain levels and other w Personalised property search environmental factors. As a result it’s impossible to know exactly when the birds might be in w Relocation services residence so our advice is to call GOR (Groupe Orthonologique de Roussillon) on 04 68 51 20 01 w Project management for a status check if you are planning a visit. w Language assistance La vie en rose But don’t leave it too long, for sadly the and translation the pink flamingos of Canet St Nazaire flamingo’s habitat in the PO is under threat. Climate with Simon Newman change is adversely impacting the already fragile eco-balance at St Nazaire and even though much Bilingual Estate Agency No one knows why flamingos stand on one leg. cormorants, terns and water fowl among many work is being done to protect the flamingo’s natural With you every step of the way There are plenty of theories of course, the most others. food supply, these spectacular creatures cannot be common being that it’s a heat conservation It has to be said that this étang presents, like counted on to grace our shores forever. However strategy to counter long periods of standing in most wetlands, a pretty stark landscape, though experts say that conditions look favourable for cold water. You’d think a more sensible strategy not without its own charm and beauty; serene the 2012/13 winter months so our advice is to get would be just to not stand in cold water. But too, once you get away from the busy road that down there tout de suite for a good old gander. flamingos are wading birds and wading is what bisects it from the sea. And when a blue sky and a (Ouch, a shameless clunker I know, but so hard to they do when they’re not otherwise flying, snow-capped El Canigó provide the backdrop, the resist.) feeding, fighting or fornicating - their other picture-perfect scene is complete. main preoccupations. Though undoubtedly graceful and elegant, pink And when they do wade it’s mostly to sift flamingos are renowned as vicious scrappers with through the sand with their especially evolved a short fuse. All bird species seem to pee them off, Charming stone house with garden and hooked bills for shrimps, a staple diet that accounts but particularly their own kind. Within a colony of Canigou views, in Eus - the sunniest village in for their distinctive colouring. And on the subject of flamingos violent and bloody internecine spats can France! 178,500 €. Ref: 66025849. being in the pink, don’t you adore their delightfully be seen kicking off at alarmingly regular intervals, lyrical name in French, Les Flamands Roses, tailor triggered seemingly by the slightest behavioural- Are you selling? Call us! made surely for une chanson d’amour by Piaf or code violation. There’s a football terrace analogy Vous vendez? Appelez-nous! Trenet? there somewhere. Fortunately you don’t have to travel to Africa or The free car park at the St Nazaire étang gives www.medandmountain.com South America (the most populous continents for access to a network of paths to explore this [email protected] flamingos) for they can be seen right here on our protected wildlife area and there are a dozen or doorstep at the St Nazaire étang mid-way between so bird-spotting hides that double as fisherman’s +33 (0) 468 56 54 22 Canet en Rousillon and St Cyprien. There’s plenty of huts. And at the right time of the year upwards of or +33 (0) 612 29 52 59 other bird-life to be seen there too - herons, grebes, three thousand of the ruddy-faced creatures can be In association with Revimmo, 12 carte professionnelle no. 66-2006-213-T-G 13 Traditions&Events.....

Rivesaltes and Axat Canet Fireworks at 23h30, hot CHOO CHOO…SANTA SPECIAL! wine, hot chocolate, and dancing to What’s on Around the Region Train Touristique du Pays Cathares welcome in the New Year. February et du Fenouillèdes (TPCF). This Les Angles Torchlit descent of the Christmas train will travel between piste followed by firework display, 1st and 3rd Feb School holidays for our region OUR PICK OF EVENTS Rivesaltes and Axat with non stop wine and hot chocolate. Théâtre de l’Archipel, Perpignan entertainment for both young and PUCCINI’S MADAME BUTTERFLY Christmas – 22nd December – 7th January old. , hot drinks Performed by the Cie Opéra Éclaté February Half Term - 23rd February to December and nibbles, make-up workshop, a JANUARY Info : 04 68 62 62 00 11th March 2013 present for every child… 1st January Thursday 6th December Reservations and check out dates: 04 3rd Feb 68 59 99 02 or visit www.tpcf.fr Argelès FIRST SWIM OF THE February 2nd – Pancake Day Vernet-les-Bains ENGLISH CAROLS YEAR! FETE DE L’OURS AND PRAYERS No P-O winter is complete without Don’t wait for Shrove Tuesday to toss your first pancake 21st 22nd at 17h Premier bain de l’année - meet up 04 68 96 24 58 a visit to a bear festival, a great day of the year. The ‘Fête de la Chandeleur’ (Candlemas) is at 10h30 at the roundabout by the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, out for all the family, full of colour, also known as the ’jour des crêpes’ and dates back to beach - et bonne chance! 7th – 8th December Perpignan LE PESSEBRE VIVANT heritage and weird traditions! Roman times. DU ROUSSILLON Arles-sur-Tech - Sunday 3rd In the days when France lived mainly off the land, it was AFM Telethon National Saturday 5th One hundred and fifty singers, Prats de Mollo - Sunday 24th Feb believed that eating pancakes on this day would ensure a Events take place throughout the region in Perpignan CAVALCADE DES dancers, choir members and St Laurent de Cerdans – 3rd good harvest. Naturally, many proverbs and superstitions support of neuromuscular diseases. ROIS MAGES musicians present this living nativity March surround this day, named after the tradition of carrying Procession of the Three Wise Men, a Saturday 8th scene. FREE candles in procession to the church. parade on horse and camel back. 23rd/24th February BRITISH TEA ROOMS Foyer Municipal, Monday 31st December Celui qui la rapporte chez lui allumée. Pour sûr Maureillas 2pm-5pm Sunday 20th Parc des Expositions, Perpignan Collioure - NEW YEAR ON THE SALON ANIMALIADES ne mourra pas dans l’année Light a candle in Home-made scones, cakes, biscuits, Argelès village THE ORCHESTRE Christmas cakes, mince pies, chutney... BEACH Puppies, kittens, all shapes, sizes and church, pray for a day ‘sans Tramontane’, carry it DE CATALOGNE play music from “ ..and a chance to share a cuppa with both On a circus theme. Bodegas, bandas breeds www.copains-calins.fr famous films. home without the flame going out, and you won’t French and British cuppa fans. and bopping. Fireworks at midnight in the bay. Book a table on the die during to year to come. 22nd and 23rd THROUGHOUT THE DEPARTMENT Si point ne veut de blé charbonneux Mange Saturday 8th beach for 5€ (04 68 82 05 66), and Youpi, it’s carnival time! bring your own banquet, or dine on Théâtre de l’Archipel, Perpignan des crêpes à la Chandeleur It is essential to eat La Casa Musicale, Perpignan February and March see carnival oysters, champagne and foie gras ALICE IN WONDERLAND pancakes on this day if the crop is to be plentiful for SO WHAT JAZZ CLUB. processions all over the P-O – fancy bodega-style. Perfomed by the brilliant acrobats of the coming year. Big Band Jazz with lindy hop dancers. FREE the China New National Circus dress, street parades, fireworks, ... Quand il pleut pour la Chandeleur, il pleut 04 68 62 17 22 pendant quarante jours. Ooooops. Check out that r detaile Saturday 15th December fo d inform weather forecast, we really don’t want rain for 40 ation visit:- days Théatre de L’Etang, Saint Estève ww.ang CELTIC LEGENDS w lopho On the other hand ne-dir om Irish tap dance show with 7 musicians and ect.c ….Soleil de la Chandeleur, annonce hiver et 18 dancers featuring Irish classic folklores, malheur But we don’t want sunshine either! traditional music and dance, live band…a • Not sure where to start ? show to get you tapping, stamping, d v g property consultants • Trying to manage your Another tradition is to flip a crêpe with the right hand whilst“ clapping and whooping. project from overseas? holding a gold coin in the left. Although a little problematic Tel: 04 68 38 34 95 Whether you’re looking to build a new • Problems with the for left-handers, this will ensure prosperity throughout the house, refurbish a derelict rural mas or language barrier ? coming year for the whole family. The gold coin should then Sunday 16th December modernise a townhouse, we are here to help and guide you through from start to fi nish. Call today or see our be wrapped in the pancake, and put on top of the wardrobe Riverchurch, Perpignan website to fi nd out more for a year, retrieved and given to the first poor person passing INTERACTIVE ENGLISH SPEAKING Mob: 06 84 53 12 03 - that is poor in money, not unfortunate to have been handed NATIVITY 06.35.92.91.99 a year old crêpe! Tel: 04 68 55 86 80 www.riverchurch.fr [email protected] 14 specialists in property development and project management www.dvgpropertyconsultants.com 15 Traditions&Events..... El Caganer Bare bottomed bounder The traditional Christmas or ‘pessebre’, is still very much alive and kicking in Catalonia… but what every Catalan child is really looking for is that bare bottomed bounder, the ‘caganer’. “They are by no means intended to mock the A popular and much loved Catalan Christmas personalities but rather to pay tribute to them” figure, this small statue, originally of a pooping The family run business in Girona create these peasant wearing traditional floppy red Catalan cap bare bottomed personalities with affectionate (), crouches with trousers half down, in a irreverence, re-thought each year to represent well ‘toilet’ position, making his small contribution to known personalities and current affairs. the land. Often hidden behind a tree, or round the back We all do it! of the stable, the fun is to find the cheeky chappie, The exact origin of the Caganer has been lost symbol of prosperity, health and happiness for the over the years but the tradition is known to have coming year. existed since the 17th century. When Barcelona Originally men only, one early caganer scene Council cut the caganer from the public nativity showed the wife waiting at her husband’s side scene in the early 2000s, public outcry and to wipe his bottom. Today, liberated women are media support quickly had the bare derrière represented by ‘caganeras’ and are crafted to wipe reinstated, proof of its timeless popularity. their own bottoms!! Some say that this uninhibited little figure is ‘fertilizing’ the land to ensure a rich and successful Affectionate Irreverence harvest, others that he represents equality, in Other figures were also added over time to that we are all equal when it comes to biological the peasant…. washerwomen, shepherds, functions. All agree that he or she symbolises good fishermen….,. Today, modern caganers luck for the coming year. may represent almost anybody. William, Kate, and Michael Jackson squat next If you’re looking for an unusual Christmas or to the Pope. Elvis, Ronaldo, Tiger Woods and the Easter present, visit www.caganer.com and order Queen crouch nearby. Contraversial? Maybe. from a variety of celebrity caganers. Disrespectful? Not at all. Marc Alos Pla for the Find out more about Catalan Christmas company www.caganer.com who craft these traditions (el pessebre, caga tio) on our website at unusual and novelty caganers by hand, explains, www.anglophone-direct.com

16 17 Food&drink lunches are a rare pleasure, Can Joan Restaurant especially with a roaring fire and St Jean d’Albère Tel: 04 68 83 60 92 Review in a room full of character. Three To get there…. with hours into lunch feeling languid Take the RN9 direction Le Perthus, Auberge Paul Cartmell and replete, the dessert arrived. turn left onto the D71 at the Familiar local favourites made up Douane building just before Le the choices and we all enjoyed a Perthus, direction St Jean d’Albère and keep on going until you see St Jean d’Albère magnificently rich chocolate tort, Can Joan on your right Eating to see more resto Can Joan complete with dessert wines. telephone to check opening hours. Out reviews visit Coffee and digestifs completed Open New Year’s Eve. Guide www.anglophone-direct.com I first spotted ‘Auberge Can Joan’ on a wonderful sun drenched walk last Easter from the hamlet of a memorable lunch and feeling Saint Jean d’Albère. Unfortunately it was closed. rather full, we took a very small DANS UN RESTAURANT : Following a number of recommendations that next day too! meander around the delightful hamlet of Saint “Monsieur, pourquoi bougez-vous tout le temps the Auberge was well worth a visit, we drove back Almost immediately, aperitifs were served; Jean d’Albère, which in no way compensated for votre pied sous la table?” there in late autumn, along tiny, winding forest dangerously by the bottle….. pastis, Grenache and the calorie intake. “C’est pour empêcher les loups de s’approcher de moi.” roads, with magnificent twisted cork oaks. This Muscat with a generous ‘plat de crudités’. We were We had chosen the set menu for 27 euros and “Mais il n’y a pas de loups ici!” time there was no pre-lunch walk and the day presented with three choices for a main course, it was incredible value, including five courses, “Vous voyez, ça marche” (loup – wolf ça marche – it works) was cool and overcast. We approached the large, that day duck, wild boar, or veal. No large and wine, aperitifs, digestifs and coffee. The food itself ancient building commanding magnificent views complicated menus to navigate, decisions were is not pretentious; it is fresh, hearty, home cooked, towards Spain, and walked through an unassuming made and we all went for the wild boar casserole. well prepared and simply delicious. The portions door leading to a lovely, rustic, vaulted room with Aperos finished, a large platter of charcuterie are almost too generous but there is a smaller set fabulous echoes, where we were given a welcome arrived, pâtés maison, roasted peppers and other menu or a la carte options as warm as the huge fire roaring in the hearth. vegetables, anchovies, eggs mimosa, and salad Since this gastronomic adventure, I have The most important things to bring with you to accompanied by ordinary but pleasant red, white been back to the Auberge for a lighter, summer the Auberge are a hearty appetite, plenty of time and rose wines. The platter would make a meal by lunch on the terrace and it yet again lived up and a nominated driver. And if you have plans for itself and was thoroughly delicious. to expectations. The service was charming, eating in the evening, cancel them. Oh and the After a welcome pause (I did say allow plenty welcoming and friendly, the staff are extremely of time), a huge pot of wild boar and mushroom helpful (also English speaking) and the ambiance casserole arrived, accompanied by a steaming dish has the feeling of a much loved old farmhouse. of dauphinoise potatoes. Hearty and very tasty, we I’ll be going back there again but next time, the really enjoyed both dishes but reluctantly could pre-lunch walk is compulsory! not finish all. Time for another pause (‘though the wine was still flowing), and we were then offered a plate of lamb cutlets! Now, we were beginning to flounder, belts loosened and top buttons unfastened, and regretting not taking that pre- lunch hike. We reluctantly passed on the lamb, though I’ve no doubt it would have been delicious, if the wild boar was anything to go by. Following the hearty main course, the lightness of the crisp green leaf salad, with cheese selection was almost refreshing and wonderfully simple. And the wine.... well it just kept flowing. 18 I don’t know about you, but lovely long, relaxing 19 Food&drink

COLLIOURE JAZZ RESTAURANT & BAR An unforgettable dining experience Relaxed dining experience in the heart of Perpignan in the heart of Collioure Open for Brunch, Lunch, Afternoon Tea, Aperos and Dinner e sympathetically converted 12th century building will be • Inspired cuisine open all year round for lunch & dinner – dine inside or outside • Lunch time “Brasserie” menu in the tranquil walled gardens • Evening “Dinner” & “Tapas” menu Choose from a mouth watering selection of tapas, • Vegetarian options always available freshly caught sh, seafood and meat. Free live music most thursday evenings, Select your cut of sh or meat, the size you want – visit our website for details then decide how you would like it cooked – grilled, baked, Exhibitions by local artists salt crusted or ambé To avoid disappointment reservations are strongly recommended 04 68 66 88 74 | [email protected] Why not try our traditional “Cargolades” – delicious 2 Rue Fontfroide, 66000 Perpignan barbecued snails or spit roasted suckling pig (near the Cathedral) www.loftcafeperpignan.com All of the wines on our menu come om our own domaine. Group bookings, weddings and parties catered for. O’SHANNON PUB Reservations recommended - 04 68 95 12 52 Located between the Cave Coopérative , Le Dominicain More than just a Guinness Bar... Cave and the Musée de Collioure 7 Draught beers including 4 Route de Port Vendres 66190 Collioure our beloved Guinness www.lejardindecollioure.com Now serving draught Cider Ample ee, private parking

3, Rue de l’Incendie, 66000 Perpignan Tel: 04 68 35 12 48 Open 7 nights a week - 5.30pm - 2am 20 O’SHANNON Perpignan 21 Food&drink The way to a man’s heart... Pasta with spicy

tu“Ann na seduced tom me with a this to recipe. sau Once ceI tasted her spicy tuna in tomato sauce, I knew that she was the girl for me!”

Restaurant and Wine Cave

Peter of the Pierranne restaurant in Villelongue admitted that his stomach was won over before his Facing the marina our restaurant is located heart, when talented and innovative chef, Ann, (now his wife) first made him the dish below. next door to our own wine domaine. Ingredients 4 people • 1 onion chopped • 1 can peeled, chopped Dine inside or outside in the garden under • 350 gr spaghetti or penne • 5 salted anchovies tomatoes the shade of olive and orange trees. cooked “al dente” • 2 little hot peppers crushed • 1 glass of dry white wine and • 3 cans of tuna ‘naturel’ well • 2 tblspoons oregano 1 cup of chicken stock Specialities include tapas, grilled meats and drained • 2 garlic cloves chopped or • handful of chopped parsley freshly caught sh & seafood Sauce : crushed • pepper and salt (extra • 5/6 tbl spoons of olive oil • 1 little can of tomato paste oregano if wanted) All of the wines on our menu come from our (be generous!) own domaine. Preparation Now you can add a glass of white wine and/or a cup of chicken broth. Menus starting from 14,50€ Heat oil in deep frying pan or wok. Add onions, hot peppers, anchovies, oregano and, Add the chunks of tuna to the sauce (spoon in For further information or reservations: last, the garlic. (don’t burn it!) Turn down heat and don’t stir too much to keep whole chunks). and simmer so aromas can integrate. 10 av du Fontaulé 66650, Banyuls-sur-Mer Heat the pasta, add extra olive oil and top it Add tomato paste and cook for a minute. Add with the sauce and chopped parsley. tel/fax: +33 (0)4 68 55 22 64 chopped tomatoes and simmer. www.domaine-st-sebastien.com

Many more delicious dishes will seduce you at 21 Carrer de la Marinada the Pierreanne restaurant Villelongue dels Monts Opening times:lunch and dinner, Tues to Fri, Tel 04 68 56 83 01 . plus Sat dinner and Sun lunch. Closed all day www.lapierranne.com 22 Mon. 23 Food&drink Rose hip Syrup Looking for a winter tonic? Cindy Guilbert recommends this easy and delicious recipe for rosehip syrup, which contains 20 times more vitamin C than oranges.

Wash about a kilo of berries and break off the stalks. Chop in food processor until mashed up Add about 750g of sugar for each litre of syrup, and bring to the boil again. No need to boil Place into 1.75 litres of boiling water (as quickly away for hours. Once the syrup is boiling, you as possible - vitamin C begins to break down as can start bottling it. soon as they are damaged) Bottle in sterlised bottles. Best to use small Once boiling, turn off and allow to stand for 15 ones as the syrup will go off if the bottle is minutes. open for too long. Store in a cool, dark place Pour the mixture through a jelly bag or muslin and refrigerate after opening. It is a delicious and allow the juice to drip through. drink either hot or cold – dilute to taste. You can Food, Glorious Food Put the rose hips back in the pan, add another also use it as a sweetener on your muesli or in ‘Les anglais vivent pour manger et les anglais mangent pour vivre’ litre of water and repeat the straining process. savoury dishes or desserts. Before the French revolution in 1789, around diverse foods became available to the working You could probably do this three times and still For delightful and original hand made gifts, cards 80% of the French population lived off the classes. Improved transport links helped. France get goodness out of the rose hips. and jewellery, contact Cindy on 04 68 88 02 77 land, on a diet based around bread and cereals. became fashionable for wealthy tourists from After the revolution, a new ruling class of around the world, so chefs created dishes to appeal bourgeoisie ironically recreated the luxurious to a wider audience, and the country gained the cuisine of the very ‘aristos’ they had beheaded, reputation of the world capital of haute cuisine. L’Abri -Côtier and food became a symbol of social status. Long dinners prepared lovingly and consumed Le Rialto Parisians were still starving on the streets and leisurely over several hours of wine and chat are still Mussel & Pizza Restaurant Food with a view all year round the reputed ‘haute cuisine’ for which France very much the French way of life. Outside covered dining overlooking the has long been known, was still only within the Of course, we know that dinner out is not always Open all year round over looking the Port picturesque Port Vendres reach of the wealthy. perfect, so here is some useful vocabulary to help Speciality : “Moules de Bouchot” Menus from 10,50 € Choose from freshly caught fi sh, mussels or meat At the beginning of the twentieth century, more you to explain politely when a ‘plat’ is not quite Delicious freshly caught mussels served with a ‘comme il faut’. choice of 12 mouth watering sauces Open for lunch every day except Thursday Year Round Outside Dining 04 68 98 02 67 04 68 88 17 31 With Sea Views: 12 Quai Forgas, Port Vendres Quai Forgas, Port Vendres L’Abri-Côtier – Port Vendres C’estvocab.. (trop)…. - It’s (too)... C’est…. - It’s... Le Rialto - Port Vendres …fade - bland/tasteless …mangeable/immangeable - Chez Pujol – Port Vendres …sucré - sweet edible/inedible Jardin de Saint Sebastien – Banyuls …salé - salty …dégoûtant - disgusting Open Christmas Day & New Years Eve: Friendly, relaxed atmosphere …poivré -peppery ...infect - awful Le Manège Auberge des Alberes …epicé/piquant - spicy (hot) Ce n’est pas... Bar, Restaurant, Pub 3 course menus from 12 euros Jardin de Saint Sebastien Children’s Menu – 6,50 euros …acide/aigre - sour … assez cuit - It is underdone. Jardin de Collioure …amer - bitter Il manque de…. L’Abri-Côtier (closed new years eve) Live music evenings …dur - tough sel - salt “Guest Beers” …cuit - overdone poivre - pepper Book to avoid disappointment …cru - raw gout - taste 24 22 rue des Pyrénées – Le Boulou 04 68 39 35 64 …tiède - luke warm Il y a une mouche dans ma soupe! 25 Food&drink Florence, Franck Fulliquet and their team look forward to welcoming you all year round

Visit this famous ancient Lintel in the nearby church in Saint Genis des Fontaines PujolRestaurant Poissonnerie Choose your fi sh from the Auberge des Albères freshly caught catch in our “fi shmongers” then decide how you would like it cooked - grilled, Restaurant, Wine & Tapas Bar baked, salt crusted, fl ambé ... 3 course mid week lunch menu from 14€20 A truly unique seafood dining 2 courses from 12€20 The Real Taste of experience Plat du Jour 10€20 the Mediterranean Extensive à la carte menu also For a “lighter bite” why not relax Using only the fi nest local, seasonal available including a wide ingredients we offer a mouthwatering selection of meat dishes with a glass of wine and a selection of home cooked Tapas range of varied, inspired dishes Seafood platters Dine outside on the covered terrace overlooking the Port or New Years Eve Celebration Book now for a relaxing, to eat in or to inside in our large panoramic Soirée 60’s, 70’s & 80’s stress free Christmas Day menu take away dining room Music and Dance : Come in fancy dress 40 Euros from your favourite decade - costumes Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner also available free of charge, upon 04 68 82 01 39 arrival at the restaurant - Menu 75€ www.chezpujol.com 16 qu. Pierre Forgas 66660 Port Vendres Includes: 7 course meal, wine, champagne & c o ff e e Make it a Night to Remember! LE TRÉMAIL - Collioure Open 1st January : Un vrai bijou au coeur du Collioure Menu “Jour de L’An” 45 € Using only freshly caught fi sh & seafood our specialities include: mariscade, parillade, For Reservations : bouillabaisse, fi sh “à la plancha” Open all year round 1 rue Arago, Collioure 04 68 82 16 10 04 68 89 88 38 20m from the sea front www.restaurant-letremail.fr 26 www.auberge-des-alberes.com 27 Ample free parking : 78 avenue Maréchal Joff re 66740 SAINT GENIS DES FONTAINES Food&drink The Beer Necessities THE BEAR You might have heard about bears and bear BREWERYLa Brasserie De L’Ours festivals in Prats-de-Mollo, but have you heard about beers and beer festivals? Cave & Bar Spurred on by thirsty locals and their desire Real Ale Wine, Whisky, to enjoy “Real” British Ale, Cathy & Kevin Grainger a selection have boldly embarked upon the exciting project Rum & Beer of setting up a traditional brewery specialising in of beers using Christmas & fine quality, traditional beers in the pretty mountain the fi nest Valentines Drinker’s Heaven! village of Prats de Mollo. ingredients After a sneaky tasting, (in the name of research gift for her... bien sûr), we have a feeling that Prats will soon be and the spring experiencing a sharp increase in popularity! The water of the brewery will be opening soon for tastings and sales Pyrenees. Spey River Whisky – keep an eye on our website at www.anglophone- “Single Malt” direct.com for opening date and stockist details. For the full story of bears, beers and barley don’t Now Open for Exclusive to V&B miss the Spring edition of PO Life – available from WWW.THEBEARBREWERY.COM Bar Food �- maquette pub AC FR v3.pdf 1 03/03/11 15:41 1st March. [email protected] 66230 PRATS DE MOLLO Catalan Style! Personalised gift Home cooked baskets made up Catalan Pub Grub from your own Open for Lunch Tues -Friday selections The Region's Very Best International Supermarket An unrivalled range of mouth Buy 5 “Bières watering foods, drinks and fresh ingredients from around de Noël” the world. and get 1 free

For all your great British festive favourites : mince pies, , The very best selection of British beers , ... An unrivalled selection of unique gifts, perfect for those who enjoy a good tipple! 04 68 86 36 68 22 rue Michel Carré 66330 Mas Guerido, Cabestany 28 www.VandB.fr Open – Mon 2.30pm – 8pm | Tues – Fri 10am – 8pm | Sat 10am – 12.30 : 2.30pm – 8pm 29 L’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à consummer avec modération How do you Outfortheday... persuade a bear prams, wheelchairs, or those just wanting a short, to eat cheese? easy trot in idyllic surroundings. A flat, ten minute woodland stroll past tables and benches, sparkling “Cam-em-bert”! waterfalls, tree identification signs, brings you out at a stunning viewpoint with orientation panel. The whole of the P-O and beyond lies at your feet, edged by miles of sparkling blue Mediterranean. On any day, it is spectacular. On a clear day, it will take your breath away.

ACol winter l’Ouillat, drive and walkPic N eoulous Specially adapted for those with mobility issues, wheelchairs, prams…

This delightful drive twists and turns ever the bells - you will very likely need to slow down upwards through ancient, gnarled cork oaks, or stop for the pretty, unhurried cows that graze chestnuts, and beech till you arrive at the top of free along the road side, or their stubborn donkey the world - or so it seems. friend, who will let you pass only when HE is ready. Take the RN9, le Boulou - Le Perthus road, and All part of the charm of the drive. just before entering Le Perthus, look out for the Suddenly the tree lined road opens up to wide filter lane on the left, the D71 towards St Jean and spectacular views. Keep climbing and you d’Albère. will arrive at a perfect picnic and BBQ area. Park The narrow but spectacular tree lined route, up, grab some of that winter sun, light up a fire for For all your insurance needs criss-crossed by well trodden footpaths formed your steaks, unpack your sandwiches and wine, from a name you can trust over the years by escapees, smugglers, refugees, sit on the terrace of the on-site ‘Chalet de L’Albère’, and shepherds, will tempt you back another time, where there are loos for the disabled, with a warm for another visit. For now, continue past the hamlet drink or a cold beer….. or continue straight on until WORLDWIDE TRAVEL Great discounts available of St Jean d’Albere (see restaurant review p16), and disabled signs welcome you to a small parking HOME & BUSINESS for families, no medical a left hand turn will soon put you on the approach area. The newly created path on your left has been questionnaires or age limits. to your destination, the Col l’Ouillat. Listen out for specially adapted and equipped for the disabled, ASSURANCE VIE For policies designed to meet PET your individual needs and budgets, CAR chat with our English speaking HEALTH advisors today. Get the Aviva Deal! Dimitri Simone CÉRET - 17 av Clemenceau PRADES - 7 Rue Jean Jaurès 04 68 87 04 83 04 68 96 38 73 30 31 Open every day apart from Outfortheday... 1st November, 25th December and 1st January. buildings are a fitting memorial to the explosion and the site Winter 9h – 17h victims and dynamite makers of Paulilles. A became an Summer 9h – 21h. restoration workshop for traditional wooden attractive and An on site café is open from May ‘barques catalanes’ can also be found on site. pleasant place to October. Swedish chemist Alfred Nobel, inventor of to live. dynamite and other deadly materials, was actually Workers were well paid and well looked after. a pacifist at heart. He believed that his inventions And so they should have been. The ‘dynamiterie’, would end all war through their deterrent effect. called ‘La Montagne’ by superstitious workers who Shocked at being described by a newspaper preferred not to say the real name out loud, was as a ‘merchant of death’, this paradox of a man, responsible for at least 30 explosions, leaving more manufacturer of explosives, staunch supporter than 50 dead over a century of production. Many Winter sun and dynamite at of the struggle for peace and disarmament, others were victims of anti-freeze agent,’glycol’, remade his will. He left much of his wealth to the cheap substitute for glycerine, and found many establishment of the Nobel Prize for achievements years later to dilate arteries and damage the heart. in physics, chemistry, medicine, literature….… and With a strong trade union, strikes were inevitable. Paulilles peace. He made no provision, however, for maths. One strike started as a result of workers being Tucked away off the coast road, half way Nobel dynamite factory beckons. Rumour had it that his mistress of the moment had suspended for playing rugby with several sticks of between Port Vendres and Banyuls-sur-Mer, lies Sheltered by both the Béar and Ullestrell an affair with a renowned mathematician. Nobel dynamite tied together! the bay of Paulilles, three beaches (Bernardi, headlands, and protected by Port Vendres fort, the withheld the prize for maths for fear that his rival When the factory closed down in 1984, it del Mitg and Fourat) separated by rocky site was chosen for its unpopulated position, which might win it! remained derelict for some time. Developers headlands, surrounded by steep and endless would not endanger lives in case of explosion. In partnership with Paul Barbe, entrepreneur and and entrepreneurs eyed it greedily for its prime vineyards, and rugged mountains. Equally important was its facility for building solid politician, Nobel began to produce nitroglycerine position, dreaming dreams of luxury hotel Walk there along the coastal path from Port jetties for safe sea transport, and the fact that it was in the 1870s. The factory was one of the first of its complexes and marinas. In 1998 however, the Vendres, drive, cycle, or take the 1€ bus Perpignan ‘as far away as possible from German borders’ where kind to employ women in non-clerical positions, as conservationists won the day and it was bought by Cerbère route. A large, free car park off the the Franco-Prussian War raged. well as large numbers of foreign workers. Spanish the Conservatorie du littoral (Coastal Conservation), roundabout is well signed. Today, the dilapidated buildings and grounds refugees of the Retirada, and Vietnamese after and restored over several years. The sand and pebble beaches are perfect for of the 80-acre site have been renovated, and a France’s withdrawal from Indochina found a job and grabbing some winter sunshine, sheltered as they free industrial heritage museum explains the a home at Paullilles. A self-sufficient community are by historic anti tank walls built by the Germans fascinating history of the site, set within landscaped with its own church and school, employees in 1943 to limit the possibility of an allied landing. gardens. Picnic spots provide vast views over Med described the site as ‘le Pérou’ (El Dorado), and For those who wish to do more than while away and mountain and large sepia murals on several ‘un petit coin de rève’. Factory directors planted a lazy hour on the beach, the site of the former of the restored gardens with local and exotic flowers and shrubs

32 33 Outfortheday... comfort, or a little further to the grassland under the trees if you packed a blanket. Both options have spectacular views over Evol and down the valley to the Spanish border. If you’re up for a ten-minute easy climb, or it’s a windy day, walk across the road and up to the ruins of the 13th century castle to picnic spot number 2. Inside, you’ll be protected by walls that have fought off onslaughts far greater than even the Tramontane! For the really adventurous and those with 4x4’s, keep driving deeper into the ravine. Normal cars do venture on this dirt track but only do so if you have nerves of steel and good insurance. The scenery is Pretty Perfect P-OWith KatjaPicnics Willemsen breathtaking with jagged mountain spikes ahead and dense forest on either side. Follow signs to “Les Etangs”. After about half an Idyllic picnic spots are often those discovered by accident. Somewhere off the beaten track, hour, paradise and picnic spot number 3 await perhaps hidden behind bramble and tumbledown mas, or next to a small stream in a forest of at the Refuge de la Mouline. Wooden tables are gnarled cork oaks. Here are three scenic picnic spots near the tiny hamlet of Evol, perfect to throw scattered in between the trees, some shaded, some down a rug and open a bottle of wine. in the sun, and further along from the refuge, there The sun was low in a wintry blue sky when we the cold, cleaving each tile with pride whilst their are plenty of flat rocks on which to balance a glass set off through the Têt valley to explore Olette. black-clad women dry figs and bake bread. The of wine. Bon appétit! Disappointment at this sad patchwork of crumbling church of Saint André dominates the hamlet and crépis switched to delight when we spotted a its cemetery is well worth a look for its ornate green and red sign for “Les Plus Beaux Villages collection of iron crosses, many still adorned with About Evol de France”. A quick change of plan and we were the heart-shaped porcelain grave markers so • A particularly authentic Pyrenean hamlet with houses of schist and roofs of slate. heading up a spaghetti strand road leading into the popular in the early 20th century. • 9th century Roman church of St André cleaved ravine of the Evol River. (See box inset for Once you’ve walked the cobbled streets, drive • Chapel of Saint Etienne exact directions!) through Evol, following the signs to Les Etangs/ • Remains of 13th century castle of Vicomtes de So This authentic little gem of a village, which takes Col de Portus. (The road is a bumpy mixture of dirt • Work place of Ludovic Massé, Evol’s maverick the river’s name, clutches onto the northern flank and old tar.) The first picnic spot is at the humble writer-poet. of Mont Coronat. Time has stopped in Evol. The chapel of Saint Etienne. If you see a weather beaten mottled schist houses with their slate wooden sign for Capella Sant Esteba How To Get There roofs and smoking chimneys are a X111, you’ve gone too far! • Take the N116 to Prades. rugged reminder of the fierce winters Jostle down the untarred slipway • Allow about 35 minutes from Prades to Evol. that have battered the hamlet for on the left and park next to the chapel. • Stay on N116 and follow signs to La Rocade. centuries on end. Pregnant bulges of Unfortunately, like so many churches • At Villefranche-de-Conflent, take first exit, passing bread ovens can still be seen on some these days, the door is locked but the the fortified village on your right. of the external walls. slate roof is at a perfect pitch for close- • Continue along this winding continuation of the N116 until you reach Olette. It’s easy to picture donkeys hauling up inspection of the handmade tiles. • Watch out for the “Plus Beaux Villages de France” carts of schist from the nearby quarry Head down the side of the chapel to sign on your right, and take this little road (D4) for and Catalan men, cheeks ruddy from the wooden bench for picnicking in about 5 minutes to Evol. 34 35 Outfortheday...

Llo and Behold! Absolutely worth the drive. of the large, modern, newly renovated and fully equipped In the Cerdagne and Capcir, when the winter by the knowledge that the sulphurous waters are apartments available on site. Great weekend rates include spa snows cover the land, it’s natural that thoughts known to detoxify, maintain soft, smooth skin, ease treatments, massage, facials and unlimited entry to the baths. turn to snow sports, but have you thought of rheumatism, shoulder, neck and wrist… For walking and climbing enthusiasts, the nearby Gorges du combining a day in the mountains with the An entertaining touch is the ‘Aqua musique’ - lie Sègre boasts the first ‘via ferrata’ of the Pyrenees. Hire harness delights of the natural, hot thermal springs at on a watery bed of bubbles, head supported on and helmet, click onto the route of hand and foot holds, and Llo? a specially designed ledge, ears submerged, and boldly venture across rope bridge and precipice to the Chapel of Originally named Parrochia Allone, shortened gentle music soothes the soul….. lift your ears out St Felieu. For the less adventurous, a footpath through the gorge to Hello, then Llo, this pretty mountain village is of the water and the music is gone! How do they to the refuge of Culasse at 1800 metres will keep your feet firmly dominated by the ruined monastery of Sant Felieu do that? on the ground. and La tour del Vacaro, tower of an ancient and For a break between the hard slog of moving Between skiing, walking, climbing and total wind-down, your equally ruined chateau fort, once home to 19th from pool to Jacuzzi to sauna to steam, a ‘relaxation weekend can be as energetic or as relaxing as you wish. century ‘witch’ Jean Gobern, known for his skill with room’ is equipped with a large screen showing herbs. stunning photos of the region. On Saturday Recently taken over and renovated by English mornings, join in the aqua aerobics class free of speaking Yves and Isabelle Jail, a visit to Les Bains charge. de Llo is a luxurious treat within everyone’s pocket. A range of health and beauty treatments and les bains de Three outdoor pools, heated to between 34° massages are also available to soothe those aching LLO and 36°, and a large indoor pool, have a range of joints, or iron out the creases of a hard day’s skiing, Thermal baths, spa, sauna, jacuzzi hydro jets positioned to massage your neck and climbing or walking nearby. Health & beauty treatments back, legs, feet…. There is something surreal about Lunch or snack in the cafe/restaurant, take a floating in a warm pool surrounded by cold snow picnic if you want to soak up some of that winter www.bains-de-llo.com | 04 68 04 74 55 - an indisputable ‘wow’ factor, made even better sun, or make a weekend of it and book into one Open all year round – 10am – 7.30pm | Route des Gorges, 66800 LLO 36 37 Outfortheday...

cardio and calorie burning workout, followed by a When skiing doesn’t barbecue and a bevvy in the snow. Nice.

quite do it for you. So what else? Well, not much really, only….. We can get a little obsessive about skiing can’t old village at Restaurant Le Ramballade. Grab ....thermal baths, helicopter rides, ski kiting, tandem we? In fact, it’s easy to forget a window seat and enjoy parapenting, night time dining at Le Chalet restaurant that winter in the Pyrenees breathtaking views over the at the top of the Les Angles with arrival by gondola offers a gondola full of exciting frozen lake. and return by skidoo, snake gliss, free floodlit sledging alternatives for those times Or how about a bit of sledging on the nursery slopes in Les Angles, animal park ( boar, when the ski lifts are closed, on the lower slopes, then back to wolf, bison, bear, reindeer, marmotte and izards), igloo that frozen shoulder is giving ‘Le Mixx’ Tapas Bar in Les Angles building courses, hot water canyoning, ski air bag, you grief, Grandpa’s recent hip for an early apero and nibbles — snowboarding park…….phew, that should do for now. replacement isn’t quite ready funky modern bar with heated And of course fantastic skiing for all abilities... for the pistes, or you’re just too terrace and free wifi? Pop into the tourist office at Les Angles and find out tired to tumble. A guided snow shoe walk is a more. So why not head for Lake superb way to explore the winter (For excellent year round accommodation rates Matemale and a dog sleigh mountain wonderland and learn contact Pyreneen Trails for self catering and B&B in ride through the frozen forest, about the local wildlife - more beautifully converted barns, Mouli Del Rui for B&B followed by lunch in Les Angles leisurely than skiing, but good (evening meals also available) and Les Bains Llo for self catering apartments).

PyreneanBed & Breakfast, Trails Self Catering & Activity Holidays Mike & Jenny Rhodes invite you ½ day snow shoe experience For a truly memorable to discover the unspoilt countryside just 20 euros (all equipment is adventure why not book a and wildlife of the valleys, ridges provided) BBQ or Picnic. and frozen lakes of the wonderful Pyrenees. Suitable for all ages and abilities 38 04 68 04 37 28 | 06 79 10 54 53 www.pyrenean-trails.com [email protected] 39 Letsgetphysical... Pilates: slow track Inspirez/expirez - breathe in/breathe out étirer/contracter - stretch/tense back to fitness échauffement - warm up dos rond/plat - round/flat back à plat ventre/couché sure le dos - lying on your tummy/back debout/assis/à genoux - standing/sitting/ kneeling cuisses - thighs abdos - stomach fessiers - bottom buste - chest tapis - mat altères - weights If you would like to try a Pilates discovery fortnight with Helena, ring 04.68.87.38.34

Soooooo… it’s nearly Christmas. It’s not worth improves mental and physical well-being, increases starting a new diet and exercise routine YET flexibility, and strengthens muscles through because you can’t POSSIBLY be expected controlled movements. Great for those aching to fast over the festive season… but NO backs and round tummies that have started doing MATTER WHAT, you are DEFINITELY going to their own thing, it is not fast and furious, it will not start running, jumping, skipping…in 2013. make you breathless, and is a really good ‘back to PROBABLY DEFINITELY. Just not quite yet. fitness’ option. The thing is, let’s face it, we are simply not all Buy a book or a DVD or join a weekly class here marathon runners, joggers or body building belles in the P-O. Helena, English speaking yoga pilates and beaux, and some of us need to take it a little instructor in Le Boulou area, gives you some useful more slowly. Pilates is an exercise discipline which French vocabulary to get you going!

Don't wait until the last minute to w Annual or seasonal think about renovations, repairs, and maintenance contracts maintenance (sand changes etc) on your w Green pool treatment swimming pool. Organise it over the winter/ w Pool opening and closing spring and be ready to dive straight into the w System upgrade summer season. [email protected] www.tpm66.com 40 41 TestyourFrench 3 - Read the amusing piece of advice below and fill in the blanks! 1 - RE Pour REPAS! Une super 1_____ d’améliorer votre français, c’est de prendre rendez-vous 2_____ un Match up the words, all beginning with RE, with their definitions. psychologue. (Why not try to work them out first just from the definitions?) a dire merci Bonne 3_____ de communication orale, payée par votre assurance santé! Vous apprendrez rein 1 4_____ vous présenter de manière 5_____ approfondie, dire du mal de vos 6_____ et votre rééducation 2 b diminuer famille et, 7_____ sur le gâteau, vous aurez l’occasion de parler 8_____ de vous même et de remercier 3 c remettre droit vous plaindre sur votre 9_____ et ses problèmes insignifiants. reculer 4 d un côté d’une feuille de papier Une 10_____ affaire ! e partie d’une chanson qui se répète redresser 5 a séance b cerise c véritable d longuement e façon f vie g très h chez i amis j à reduire 6 f aller en arrière refrain 7 g organe qui nettoie le sang recto 8 h animal rusé qui mange des poules redoutable 9 i traiter un convalescent Etes-vous prêt à devenir j qui est à craindre. Language tip renard 10 Il y a + time phrase = ago le prochain millionnaire Tongue twister (Virelangue) Je suis arrivé en France il y a 3 jours Qui suis-je? (Répetez trois fois) ? Je suis dans l’étang et au fond du jardin. Fais sécher ces six chaussures Je commence la nuit et finis le matin. Here’s some useful vocab to help you. (and don’t forget J’apparais deux fois dans l’année. sales sous sa cheminée. P-O Life if you win!) Useful

Qui suis-je? La letter N letter La Cochez (la case) …. tick (the box)… Chaque/prochain tirage – each/next draw expression Jour/résultats de tirage – draw results/day Ah bon Gagnant – winner Really? Is that so? I see Christmas & New Year Bulletin - playslip 2 - Parts of a whole! greetings for your good Grille Classique – classic game Here are the parts – find the whole wishes and cards Système Flash – lucky dip (possibilities at end of exercise) Les gains – winnings Blague nulle q Jouer en ligne – play on line Quel fruit obtient-on en tirant Eg le toit, les fenêtres, les portes, les murs Bonnes et Heureuses Fêtes! q Jeux de grattage – scratch cards sur la queue d’une vache ? Answer : une maison. Je te (vous) souhaite un Mise - stake Un meuhh-long (melon!!!!) Joyeux Noël et une Bonne (en tirant – by pulling la queue – tail 1 L’orteil, le talon, la plante Année! meuh – mooo) 2 La selle, des cale-pieds, un top case q Bonne Année et Bonne Santé 3 L’écran, la télécommande, l’antenne. q Joyeuses Fêtes et Bonne Isabelle & Christophe Cô - Agence des Albères 4 Le repertoire, les apps, la carte SIM Année 5 La vitrine, la caisse, le rayon q Comprehensive “Top-Up” Health Insurance Paix, joie et amitié No medical questionnaire required 6 L’embrayage, le frein, le volant q Bonheur, santé et prospérité Assurance Vie - savings plans Up to 30% discount a un portable b une voiture c un pied with this advert Car Insurance Worldwide Travel Pet Insurance d une télévision e une moto f un magasin Useful phrase Home Insurance Insurance Internet Banking Mieux vaut tard que jamais BP 7, 84 Avenue des Albères 04 68 89 72 75 66740 Saint Genis des Fontaines [email protected] (better late than never) Ample free parking 42 For advice in English & details of special offers & promotions speak to Christophe ORIAS No 0701386 et 07013871 43

www.alfmed.com [email protected] www.alfmed.com

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Conversation classes held at at held classes Conversation 06 25 22 00 90 00 22 25 06 or 20 20 62 68 04

ONLINE TEST FREE

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eh? - ? hein

Bof, j’ai mal au do au mal j’ai Bof,

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language barrier and enjoy life in France to the full. the to France in life enjoy and barrier language

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I suppose, I mean. I suppose, I - limite la à

conversation classes we can help you overcome the the overcome you help can we classes conversation

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croisent : croisent

With a range of flexible programs, intensive course and and course intensive programs, flexible of range a With

what I mean is... mean I what - c’est-à-dire...

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enfin... - well... - enfin...

letters in French? in letters improve your French? your improve

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Dread having to write write to having Dread Setting up a business & need to to need & business a up Setting

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Speech Fillers Speech Language Tip Language

noodle or nitwit!) or noodle – (nouille

Bien sûr, nous servons tout le monde le tout servons nous sûr, Bien

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bête

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4 Tenir (je tiens, nous tenons) translates mainly as ‘to hold’ or ‘to keep’ but but keep’ ‘to or hold’ ‘to as mainly translates tenons) nous tiens, (je Tenir Find the English for these common French expressions French common these for English the Find

- French your Test AméliorezvotreAnglais Letter to Santa Trouvez l’équivalent en Français pour Fun word 1 - ces expressions idiomatiques I am flabbergasted Dear Santa, a Je vais très bien My wish for 2013 is for It’s up to you 1 Je suis époustouflé a fat bank account and b Parlons affaires a thin body. Make yourself at home 2 Ce n’est pas mon truc You must be kidding 3 c Please don’t mix these up d Fais comme chez toi Useful expression again, like you did last year! It’s the story of my life! 4 5 e Coûte que coûte Shelf life - durée de Love Kate I’d like to be a fly on the wall conservation d’un produit. Let’s talk shop 6 f Comme tu veux Il est à poil I’m as right as rain 7 g h J’aimerais bien être une petite souris a silly Joke... By hook or by crook 8 Something How does a snowman travel? 9 I Ca m’arrive tout le temps! He’s wearing his birthday suit fishy’s going on On his icicle. 10 j Tu plaisantes ! Ca me paraît louche tout ça It’s not my cup of tea a sillier joke... What do you call a penguin Have you ever noticed……. Language tip in the Sahara desert? ‘….ish’ – à peu près Lost! ……… that people who tell you to Rajoutez ‘…ish’ pour donner une indication vague Good calm down are usually the ones de l’heure, l’age etc who got you mad in the first I arrive home at six-ish, depending on traffic. the silliest joke... advice Je rentre à la maison vers six heures What do you get if you cross a Never test place? (notice – remarquer the ones – She is smallish - Elle est assez petite Scottish legend and a bad egg? He looks thirty-ish - Il fait dans ses trente ans the depth of celles qui.. mad – en colère in The Loch Ness Pongster ! the water with the first place - en premier lieu (pong – sentir mauvais - arghhhh) both feet 3 - S - is for Soup Trouvez les définitions des mots suivants, qui commencent tous avec la lettre S sack 1 a thin Encore des faux amis en anglais qui ressemblent à des mots b become smaller 2 - français, mais ont un sens totalement différent. Les connaissez-vous? smell 2 FRENCH sow 3 c green leaved vegetable Virelangue d take somebody’s job away ENGLISH1 a pièce de monnaie skinny 4 (Répetez trois fois) Assistance e small, noisy bird b danger spinach 5 Rude 2 f discover through the nose Grow glowing c finalement steeple 6 Sensible 3 starling 7 g church tower green grapes! d secours Actually 4 safe 8 h adult female pig Coin 5 e grossier I snail without shell slug 9 Tape 6 f détaillé shrink 10 j out of danger Pain 7 g ruban, bande (magnétique) Oooops In P-O Life 37 we gave you the hiccoughs in the plural. Naughty. In French it is always singular Eventually 8 h sensé

even though you probably have many more than one. ‘j’ai le hoquet. Sorrrrrrry.

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Open Tuesday – Saturday 9am – 7pm 04 68 54 46 03 4 Rue Cluses (Moulin à Vent) 66100 Perpignan 48 Turn right at the roundabout just after KFC, then next right Ample free parking 49 Frenchlife... English Speaking Olivier, Maureillas Hairdresser Ne pas faire la bise? Un Ladies, Gents & Children Styling for special (Don’t) kiss me Kate Français ne ferait pas ça, occasions - weddings, ou rarement. En général, parties, communions... … when to say ‘adieu’ to the French kiss la plupart des gens qui Opening Hours : Mon - 2pm – 7pm Also open It’s second nature for the French to greet Of course, unless you’re looking for a few days sont malades diraient Tues - Fri 9am – 6pm 17th & 19th Dec and take leave of family, friends, colleagues off school or work and want to catch something “Je ne fais pas la bise Sat - 9am – 4pm Ample free parking and even complete strangers with cheek-y infectious, there are also quite a few reasons NOT to parce que...” Par contre, 04 68 29 78 74 kisses. They grow up with it. It’s as natural kiss hello or goodbye un anglais qui fait la bise, c’est maladroit, tu 30 av Jean Jaures, 66330 CABESTANY as breathing…or as waving a hand from a le reconnais tout de suite, étant donné que respectable distance and saying ‘hi’ in the UK. They’re sweaty ce n’est pas un geste naturel chez les anglais, We’ve given you a vague set of ‘kissing rules’ in You’re sweaty donc je ne serais pas insulté. Chez un français Cheminées the past but here they are again They smell que je connais, je trouverais ça bizarre. • Women kiss women (only ones they already have You smell la Gaieté du Feu The Region’s Heating Stove Experts a friendly relationship with of course. Don’t go They have dog breath Camille, Rennes kissing the lady on reception at the opticians) You have dog breath Les français font la bise BIO-ETHANOL HEATERS - The stylish, • Men kiss women but shake hands with men They are covered in cream or something pour dire bonjour, au clean, ecological way to heat your (unless they are family or very close friends in unidentifiable or put-offish revoir, merci, enchanté... home & patio. which case men kiss men) They look ill C’est une habitude, Plus an unrivalled range • Children kiss everybody, including complete They are snuffly or snotty question d’éducation. of traditional log and strangers. You hardly know them En revanche se vexer si pellet burners. • The number of kisses varies from region to The room is quite full and if you kiss one, quelqu’un ne fait pas la region, town to town, and even person to you will probably have to kiss them all. bise est peut-être un peu exagéré car dans person, so don’t worry, take your lead from the You don’t actually like them certains cas, comme par exemple arriver dans ‘kissee’. un lieu rempli de personnes, le temps de dire • Most people kiss from right to left (ie your right So if you just shake hands when you should bonjour il est l’heure de dire au revoir ! cheek to their right cheek) have kissed, will that seem standoffish, over formal, To fi nd out more visit our showroom • Some people just touch cheek to cheek and ‘air down right unfriendly? Will you cause offense if you 2480 Av Julien Panchot kiss’, others will kiss properly on the cheek. DON’T pucker up? KM 3, route de Thuir 66000 PERPIGNAN • If the ‘kissee’ is rather cute, make up your own rules! Here’s what the French have to say…. Useful vocabulary 04 68 54 13 33 faire la bise – to kiss hello/goodbye www.gaiete-du-feu.com la plupart – most diraient – would say Conseils pour éviter la grippe Par contre – On the other hand Les règles d’hygiène. (Hygiene recommendations) maladroit – awkward étant donné – given that.. Se laver régulièrement les mains (au savon et/ Éviter les contacts (bises, poignée de main...) et enchanté... – pleased to meet you ou se les désinfecter avec une solution hydro- éviter tout contact avec une personne malade. en revanche - On the other hand se vexer – to get cross alcoolique) Wash your hands regularly (with Avoid contact (kissing, handshake...) and avoid un lieu – a place soap and/or antibacterial solution all contact with those who have contracted the rempli – full Se couvrir la bouche et le nez quand on tousse virus. le temps – the time (it takes) ou éternue. Cover your mouth and nose when il est l’heure – it’s time 50 you cough or sneeze 51 Booklife... Left luggage in Barcelona But Joe’s path takes by Simon Newman a different turn when Simon Newman lives in Maureillas, on the a man claiming to It’s not only artists who find their inspiration in Catalonia. Here are three talented English- Spanish border, with his language-teacher wife be Antoni Gaudi, the speakingWrite writers scattered aroundup the Pyrénées-Orientales,your Rue! who are well worth a place on Pauline. A talented writer with a wicked sense enigmatic architect of your 2013 reading list. All available from Amazon and Amazon Kindle of humour, his novel Left luggage in Barcelona the Sagrada Familia, tells of burned-out media hotshot Joe Palmer comes back from who goes to the Catalan capital in search of ...... the grave, and Joe Shepherd’s Prayer well, a total life makeover.’ is confronted by The by Katja Willemsen www.katjawillemsen.com While in Barcelona Joe decides to search for Gaudi Enigmas, seven mystical poems written each Katja Willemsen was born in Holland, grew his long-lost biological father, aka Domingo the day of the week before the architect died. What do up in South Africa, and now lives in a tiny Waiter, who did a runner shortly after a less-than- they mean and does anyone but Joe care? village in the Vallespir. She describes herself immaculate conception on an Estartit beach in the Ultimately Joe’s search for just about everything as ‘looking Dutch, feeling South African, and Sixties. Fortunately help is at hand in the form of leads to self-redemption of a kind but not without having sturdy tap roots in our little French the fragrant and flamboyant Quentin La Bouche, a discovering an eternal truth. “Just as you think hamlet.’ larger than life Queen of the Costas who’s had more you’ve got life sorted it turns round and bites you Shepherd’s Prayer is set in the scenic hills than a little experience at finding waiters himself. on the bum.” behind Collioure and anyone who has visited the area, and enjoys its brooding history, will love this book, which twists and turns like the mountain above Collioure. paths of the story. Then a village boy Between Two Worlds Katja’s goal is to create page-turners that can is kidnapped and a by Mairi Craw www.mairicraw.com be enjoyed as a light read, but with thought- violent cult demands It is now several years since Scottish author provoking psychological depth behind. Themes closure of the Grotte Mairi Craw moved from rural Dorset to the involve family secrets, psychological shadows, des Loups, Collioure’s village of Taurinya in the foothills of Le Canigou. and the supernatural, wrapped around loaded famous prehistoric Here, she embarked on her debut novel, topics - betrayal, schizophrenia… cave, or the child ’Beyond the Hedge’, the first in a fantasy trilogy From the very first sentence the story has heat will die. In helping inspired by her childhood in a small Scottish and tension. Raisin Radcliffe and her brother rescue him, Raisin port, the tale of Sandy Henderson and the stumble on a labyrinth of caves underneath and Geoffrey confront enchanted world of Sylvania which lies beyond an ancient dolmen near the Massane Tower the trauma of their own youth. a huge hedge at the bottom her overgrown garden. When Pongo, the ebulliently cheeky fairy dog, Warm and bubbly with an infectious laugh and arrives unannounced in Scotland, Sandy embarks a bucketful of tales to tell, it is easy to understand on a series of outrageous shenanigans which bring � Websites how Mairi enraptured and captured the hearts and the magic and enchantments of Sylvania into her Agence de Création Design and Hosting imaginations of both children and adults with the home as well as her school, an ancient Victorian We offer everything from � E-commerce first part of the trilogy. mansion with secrets of its own. simple ‘online presence’ sites, Now, the eagerly awaited second part, ‘Between Will Queen Celestina and her subjects survive to content managed, � Logo design e-commerce and Two Worlds’, brings back the Tartan Fairy Folk and the ultimate onslaught on all they love and database driven websites. � Vehicle, shop their beloved monarch, Queen Celestina, who once cherish? And will Sandy be able to make the huge & window graphics more find themselves plunged into chaos and sacrifices demanded of her for the greater good of Visit our website for examples of our work [email protected] despair as the dark shadows of evil threaten their those she loves? www.blyth-design.com 04 68 05 86 71 carefree, happy land. 52 53 Things you might need to know... Just a little prick.... If you are amongst the above, ...... and you can be protected against the most you will probably receive a common strains of flu this winter. letter recommending the Buy your own vaccine at the chemist for vaccination, along with Useful around 7 euros (note that the usual percentage a ’prise en charge’ is still reimbursed by the state), and make an voucher for free websites…. appointment with a local doctor, nurse or vet vaccination. (joking) to administer it. Anybody can do this. If this is the first time you receive the voucher, Volunteers needed… https://e-justice.europa.eu The jab is particularly recommended for over- you will need to see your doctor beforehand, Les Restos du Coeur provides food packages and free Visit this ‘e-justice’ site, available in 22 65s and for those with health problems which so that he or she can be sure that the vaccine is meals to the poor and homeless, organised and served languages, for quick answers when you’re could make them more vulnerable to the bug. suitable for you. up by volunteers around France. Volunteers are always faced with the trials and tribulations of needed, particularly if you have a skill such as IT, painting, life (divorce, litigation, relocation, death), help with form filling, or just to help out the centres. find a lawyer in another country, ask about If you can help, contact…. avoiding costly legal proceedings……, Emergency number Banyuls des Aspres-> Christian Goux 06 47 54 46 89 for the deaf or hard Saint André->Marie Thérèse Imbard 06 82 49 65 14 www.administration24h24.gouv.fr. of hearing – 114 Céret ->Anne Merlin 06 12 29 71 00 French admin on line, notify the authorities Amélie-les-Bains-> Borges Alban 06 68 55 30 77 of a change of address, request copies This free 24/7 number is available by fax One big of government forms and certificates, or text message. The line is manned by Winter Fuel payment check out your benefit entitlement, a specially trained team, who will assess European A new European ruling on the winter fuel points on you driving licence…, the emergency and contact the service melting pot? payment for UK pensioners abroad means required, police, fire brigade,… Studies are being made into that many more ex pats will now be eligible http://donnons.org Check out www.solidarite.gouv.fr for more details. the possibility of a single EU- for winter fuel payment. Created to allow items that we no longer wide passport for the future. In order to claim, you only need to have use to be re-used, recycled, donated, this EU members would have been born before July 5, 1951. give-away and find site is also a chance to Announced nearly two years ago, the new equal rights to vote and pay Payments begin at £200 per household help a student just moving into digs, a person food court at Auchan, to be constructed their taxes in their country of and rise to £300 where the person is in need or an artist or DIY enthusiast who on the former site of Leroy Merlin, is still residence, whilst retaining their over 80. Find out more at www.gov.uk might be able to repair, restore, renovate…. awaiting the green light from Perpignan right to their original nationality ->Benefits->Heating and housing benefits planning office for the addition of a food hall Meanwhile, surveys show and extended shopping gallery, expected that 65% of the French wish to to house at least 15 more retail outlets. leave the EU and the Euro, and return to the Franc. Breathing space for breathalyser The shortage of breathalyzer kits throughout France continues to make When your number’s up a mockery of the new law stating that drivers in France (cars, motor bikes 0892 0820 £€$ over 50cc, vans...) must carry a breathalyser kit (éthylotest or alcootest) Don’t forget, if you want to ring a premium number 0892, 0820 etc (often info lines, in their car, or face an on-the-spot fine of 11 euros. The government bank, insurance company…) there will always be a ‘normal’ much cheaper equivalent. has now extended the legal date to March 1st 2013. Fines will Simply go to the site www.nonsurtaxe.com, put in the premium number and up will therefore not be enforced before that date. pop the cheaper version! Simples (click click), and it means that if you want to make These ’use and discard’ kits are relatively cheap (1 - 2 euros) and a complaint, you can give them a good old ear bashing without worrying that it is should be available in chemists, supermarkets, on-line, at ferry and tunnel costing you a fortune!! terminals etc, but do remember that if you do decide to check your alcohol level 54 before returning home from an evening out ,you will need another breath test kit to 55 produce for the gendarmes if you are stopped! P-OLife... A Matter of Life and Death I felt uncomfortable researching and writing • Death certificate issued by doctor. this article. I am unprepared. I don’t want to • You will also need to know the address, next of think about it… but it’s the one absolute in life. kin, and maiden name if applicable. The electrical experts! We’re all going to die…. and the practicalities If all details are available, a death certificate (acte fall to loved ones, at a difficult, and unhappy de décès) is usually issued immediately, stating TV, HiFi, Multimedia, time, often made worse by language barrier where and when death took place. There is no and lack of information. charge. Ask for several copies to make it easier to Domestic Appliances. We can’t make the hurt go away, but we can give cope with paper work to follow. you some basic, useful, information to help you to Once the death is registered, a ‘permis Supply and installation be better prepared for death in France. d’inhumer’ (burial permit) or a ‘certificat of TV aerials and satellite The following information d’incinération’ (Cremation assumes that the death is not Le vrai tombeau des morts c’est certificate) is issued. If unnatural or suspicious. the deceased followed a dishes le cœur des vivants. Death at home particular religion, their local • Contact the doctor who Jean Cocteau religious organisation can be Speed radar detectors will issue a ‘Certificat contacted for guidance. now in stock Medical de Décès’ (death If the deceased has not certificate) joined the ‘opt out’ register • Call a funeral home (pompes funèbres) who (Registre National des Refus) for organ donation, All installations, repairs & after sales will arrange for the deceased to be removed to it will be presumed that they have consented to services are carried out by our the funeral home mortuary. organ donation, although family can still object. Death in hospital A good funeral home can take care of all own team of experienced, English • The attending doctor will issue the death paperwork, and arrangements, but remember speaking technicians certificate and the ‘on duty’ funeral home will this is a business. Don’t be afraid to ask for one or remove the deceased, unless relatives specify a several quotes (un devis obsèques) Operating instructions fully explained in English funeral home. MORE USEFUL VOCAB • A death must be reported (déclaration de Burial - enterrement Unrivalled range of all leading brands at the very best prices décès) to the local mairie WITHIN 24 HOURS. Coffin - cercueil Paperwork required for funeral home & death Mourning - le deuil declaration. Insurance to cover funeral costs –contrat/ • Identity of the person declaring the death assurance obsèques • Passport or carte de séjour, marriage (if Undertaker - entrepreneur de pompes applicable) or birth certificate of the deceased funèbres/ croque-mort

English Speaking Funeral Directors Friendly advice and support, in English at a time when you need it most. Available 24/24 hrs, 7 days a week.

We also offer flowers, headstones, commemorative plaques and articles with which to pay your respects & remember your loved ones. [email protected] 04 68 83 19 62 8 pl. Gambetta (the Cathedral Square). 66000 Perpignan www. pompes-funebres.fr 56 email : [email protected] 57 Zone commerciale E. Leclerc 66160 Le Boulou Tél. : 04 68 51 30 20 Fax : 04 68 34 11 83 P-OLife... Eliane Morley explains the best way Who to contact to legally pay for casual labour Property Management & in an Emergency The CESU (Chèque emploi Sales in Pyrenees Orientales service universel ) SAMU (medical emergency) 15 All year round The CESU is a way of declaring and Police emergency 17 services and support paying for casual labour such as; Fire service emergency 18 Visit the website and contact me to nd out more • House and garden maintenance Ruby Goold - 06 38 73 15 62 (cleaning, ironing…) European emergency line 112 www.lesjoursheureux66.com • DIY SOS Doctor 24/24 08 20 20 41 42 Qualifi ed Electrician • Baby-sitting Emergency vet 04 68 55 55 83 • Administrative and computing help donnez des ailes à la recherche Emergency repairs Standard upgrades Anti-poison centre 04 91 75 25 25 Security check Air conditioning • Personal assistance: cooking, driving, walking Perpignan hospital 04 68 61 66 33 Wiring & rewiring Renewable energies • Pet sitting Pyrénées Languedoc Roussillon CPAM (English spk serv) 0811 36 36 46 When you employ somebody at home, regularly www.enfantsetsante-plr.com Free estimates, meticulous worker. or occasionally, the employment declaration can be Cancer support France 04 68 69 01 37 Combating childhood cancer and leukemia English spoken made easily and quickly on the internet (www.cesu. Directory enquiries 118 008 Cure more - Cure better Please call Stéphane: urssaf.fr) or with Urssaf. International Help us to save lives 485 131 577 Siret: Payment is made via a ‘chequebook’ provided by directory enquiries 118 700 06 13 24 87 47 CNCESU (National Centre of Cheque Emploi Service www.enfantsetsante-plr.com Throughout the region [email protected] Universel) or Urssaf. International Mastercard 08 00 90 13 87 Local weather forecast 08 36 68 02 66 ADVANTAGES GDF (gas problems) 08 10 43 30 66 • Both employer and employee are legally Cancer Support France declared EDF (electricity problems) 05 56 17 40 70 Sud de France (11,09,66) • The employer benefits from a 50% tax You can use the European emergency number 112 in any reduction and is insured in case of damage EU country from any telephone. You do not need a card or Supporting those whose lives caused by the employee. money to ring this number from a pay phone. 112 may also have been touched by cancer The employee is covered in case of accident or injury, be used from a mobile to connect you with all emergency and has a status within the French social security services. How do we support? system for pension, unemployment, training………. Our trained members are available for you to talk by telephone, • Calculations and direct debit of taxes are DROP IN to our informal our bilingual members off er language support. We can help you organised directly by CNCESU Cancer Support France For all your DIY, building groups at Céret and Prades fi nd the right information and can visit you at home or in hospital. • CNCESU prints and sends the payslip directly to Sud de France (11,09,66) & decoration requirements Céret: Pablo’s Bar, Place We have Drop In groups, a book exchange, events to raise funds the employee. and events to enjoy ourselves. See what we are doing by checking ask for one of the 10+ Picasso - fi rst and third Find out more at www.cesu.urssaf.fr english speaking assistants the CSF website, the CSF Forum or look on the P-O Life website. Wednesday 10am to 12 noon Opening Hours For more details or to fi nd out how you could help Cancer Support France - Main Store Prades: Café Alchimie, Rue Sud de France or how we can support you and those close to you contact: Hospice - fi rst and third Eliane can also provide the following services : Le Mas Galté Monday to Saturday Penny on 04 68 38 81 28 Maggie on 04 68 96 55 46 French lessons and help with admin, personal Centre Commercial Auchan 8h00 - 20h00 non stop Thursday 3pm to 5pm OR [email protected] [email protected] assistance: cooking, driving, walking, cleaning, Route d’Espagne Perpignan Building Materials English speaking phone No: Monday to Saturday Coff ee and a warm welcome ironing etc… www.cancersupportfrance.org | www.csf-forum.org 04 68 98 47 41 7h00 - 20h00 non stop awaits you Contact her on 06 08 01 80 15 58 CSF - Sud de France (11,09,66) Association no. W 112000594 59 Englishspeakingservices...

Acupuncture & Natural Medicines Education & Translation Health & Well Being Elisa Jarry ...... 04 68 88 84 47 Alfmed - Perpignan & Céret...... 04 68 62 20 20 Elisa Jarry ...... 04 68 88 84 47 or 06 88 85 18 87 registered practitioner of natural medicines ...... or 06 88 85 18 87 registered practitioner of natural medicines Carole Cassoly - admin help / translation Stéphanie Jaeghers ...... 06 67 67 29 75 Roofing Prades area - [email protected]...... 06 11 44 15 95 Stéphanie Jaeghers ...... 06 67 67 29 75 Traditional Chinese Medicine Traditional Chinese Medicine Scaffolding France – SOS, Louise Sayers...... 04 68 56 54 22 Translation & administrative service ...... 06 20 03 54 46 Accountants Heavy Structural Building Hearing Tests PromoLangues - Céret ...... 04 68 87 48 10 AT & Associés...... 04 68 66 06 06 & Renovation Works Optique CIote Vermeille...... 04 68 85 12 92 English speaking accountants Roussilangues- French Classes - Bélesta, Estagel, Ille-sur-Têt English speaking hearing tests ...... Port Vendre Registered & Insured www.roussilangues.com ...... 06 76 22 49 50 or 09 62 58 05 41 [email protected] Architects Schola Mediterranea Language School...... 04 30 44 63 41 Heating & Insulation www.scholamediterranea.com Argelès sur Mer...... 06 74 40 20 31 Ari Hantke Architecture ...... 06 74 81 11 43 +33 (0)4 68 98 03 24 La Gaieté du Feu Stove specialists...... 04 68 54 13 13 hussellbuilding.com Estate Agencies B & B - Hotels Help in France Med & Mountain Properties ...... 04 68 56 54 22 Le Château de Riell ****...... 04 68 05 40 40 SARL Roussillon Developpements ...... 04 68 96 08 01 www.medandmountain.com Molitg Les Bains ...... www.chateauderiell.com English-builders-66.com P.O. Property Shop...... 06 60 36 25 20 Le Grand Hotel ***...... 04 68 05 00 50 Tryba Doors, windows, conservatories...... 04 68 550505 Molitg Les Bains...... www.grandhotelmolitg.com REAL Estates...... 04 68 83 19 50 www.real-estates.fr Pyrenean Trails - Les Angles ...... 04 68 04 37 28 Catteries, Kennels & Pet Sitting B&B, Gites & Mountain guide Le Palais Des Chats...... 04 68 96 40 80 Anything, to make your life Mike & Jenny Rhodes ...... [email protected] www.lepalaisdeschats.com...... 06 16 60 37 15 Garages & Car Mechanics John Bret...... 06 22 95 94 49 in France easier ... I can help Pet Sitting & Dog Training...... 07 86 48 03 69 British Produce English speaking mechanic - All makes/models. Prades area A bilingual service to help you with all The Asia Center Mas Guerido ...... 04 68 67 59 07 aspects of french admin and bureaucracy Charities Garden Services Cancer support France ...... 04 68 38 81 28 Building & Renovation 2G Paysage ...... 06 12 99 25 52 www.cancersupportfrance.org gardens 06 70 70 62 10 www.theevesolutions.com Emmaus...... 04 68 54 59 60 Garden Services ...... 06 3468 1619 Donate any unwanted items fr.gaiadir.com/emmaus-pollestres throughout PO - [email protected] Carole Cassoly - admin help / translation Prades area - [email protected]...... 06 11 44 15 95 Enfants et Santé...... www.enfantsetsante-plr.com La Main Verte...... 06 77 03 04 46 Fighting childhood cancers Gardening, Landscaping & Tree felling throughout the PO Eve’Solutions...... 04 68 88 46 34 Ease your life in France...... 06 70 70 62 10 Les Restos du Coeur ...... 04 68 85 04 53 MSB Property Services...... 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 43 22 86 15 Provides food packages & free meals to the poor & homeless, organised France – SOS, Louise Sayers...... 04 68 56 54 22 Property Services 66...... 06 33 06 51 55 Translation & administrative service ...... 06 20 03 54 46 Est. 24 Years & served up by volunteers. email: [email protected] Perpignan & coastal areas Registered in France TPM - Maureillas...... 06 75 46 93 65 Home & Decoration Repairs & Restoration Computer Help & Maintenance www.tpm66.com Patrick Boyle...... 04 68 87 17 35 Aubergine ...... 06 25 18 18 10 Broadband installation, repairs, upgrades, advice www.les-alberes.net/ made to measure curtains, upholstery ...... [email protected] 04 68 95 62 49 | 06 45 38 82 88 Gift Ideas systems Bulthaup...... 04 68 34 09 22 [email protected] Aubergine...... 06 25 18 18 10 Stunning contemporary kitchens - Perpignan Soft furnishing, curtains, upholstery& unique gifts Dentists Ian Rye - builder - Elne ...... 04 68 39 75 45 Dr Armin Wachsmuth...... 04 68 54 28 50 Créatif Impression...... 06 31 52 99 71 [email protected] English speaking – based in Serralongue Photos printed onto canvass Jamie Price...... 04 68 94 62 49 Keep up to date with all Building and Renovation...... 06 45 38 82 88 Drain Clearance Hair & Beauty the comings and P.O. Interiors ...... 06 72 42 07 04 MSB Property Services...... 04 68 51 80 46 Sam’s Salon ...... 04 68 29 78 74 goings throughout Renovation, refurbishment and carpentry Interior / exterior drain clearance ..... www.msbpropertyservices.com Tête à Têt - Mobile hairdresser Call Kay...... 06 71 32 90 560 the region with Hussell Building...... 04 68 98 03 24 our FREE weekly www.hussellbuilding.com newsletter. detai Subscribe today by for led inf visiting our website ormation vis ww.a it:- www.anglophone- w nglop direct.com and click 60 hone 61 -direct.com on the Subscribe link Englishspeakingservices...

Insurance Property & Project Management Surveyors Allianz Céret...... 06 43 80 73 51 Riverchurch APS - [email protected]...... 06 80 88 80 72 R.Estebe-Rigall...... [email protected] 04 68 64 97 09 Keyholding,Cleaning,Maintenance English Speaking Property Surveyor Regine Estebe Rigall and her International English Eve solution...... 06 70 70 62 10 Buying, Selling or Renting a Property? team, off ers expert advice to Port-Vendres meet your individual needs. speaking church Les Jours Heureux 66...... 06 38 73 15 62 We provide all diagnostic reports necessary Termites & parasites www.riverchurch.com Property management & marketing to ensure a smooth completion: Damp Car, motor home, Assurance Vie – Lead boat, motorbike... Savings Plans For expert, independent Pools Electricity & gas Home & Contents Worldwide Travel Home, Pool and advice call Nicolas on Insurance Insurance Property Services 66...... 06 33 06 51 55 Garden Maintenance. safety Perpignan & coastal areas 04 68 57 82 68 Business Health Fully registered man, Asbestos Insurance Insurance TPM...... 06 75 46 93 65 with a van that can! 06 86 03 06 82 Energy performance We speak cleaning, maintenance, accessories...... [email protected] Pool cleaning & testing, 04 68 87 00 84 MSB Property Services...... 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 43 22 86 15 covers supplied & fi tted [email protected] www.dei-expertises.com 28 Place de la Liberté, 66400 Céret Garden clearing, (All services available all Ample free parking nearby No ORIAS: 070222237 maintenance & tidying Plumbers & Electricians year round) Sky TV Installation Languedoc Electrics...... 04 68 42 37 97 General handy work & repairs AVIVA ...... Prades 04 68 96 38 73 Drain Clearance British TV in France...... 04 68 69 83 76 ...... Céret 04 68 87 04 83 Robert Morley ...... 04 68 37 96 50 Contact Mark on 06.82.10.55.35 ...... www.british-tv-in-france.co.uk Tel/Fax 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 43 22 86 15 AXA Insurance Collioure ...... 04 68 82 06 01 www.morleyrenovation.eu...... 06 80 34 45 17 Skydigi...... 04 68 87 18 30 Email: [email protected] AXA - St Génis - Cô...... 04 68 89 72 75 No Siret 479 317 620 00025 Electrical | Bathrooms Property Services 66...... 06 33 06 51 55 Opticians Kitchens | Tiling | Air Con Perpignan & coastal areas Port-Vendres ...... 04 68 85 12 92 TPM - Maureillas...... 06 75 46 93 65 www.tpm66.com PTIQUE –AUDITION Removals CÔTE VERMEILLE 04 68 37 96 50 Van with human ...... 06 3468 1619 throughout PO - [email protected] Opticians and Hearing Test Centre 06 80 34 45 17 English Spoken [email protected] First Examination Free www.morleyrenovation.eu Britannia Sandersteads Unrivalled range of frames 00 44 (0)208 669 6688 Hearing aids & accessories – free trials available VNelec - Stephan ...... 06 13 24 87 47 Fortnightly around France - Free quotes Wedding & Party Planning Walter v.d. Hoogen ...... 06 25 24 00 81 11 Bis Quai Forgas Restaurants & Bars Coup 2 Coeur...... 06 28 26 15 63 04 68 85 12 92 English & Dutch speaking Electrician Laurence Ségura Carrère www.coup2coeur-organisation-mariage.com PORT VENDRES Auberge des Albères...... 04 68 89 88 38 www.auberge-des-alberes.com Places of Worship Print & Design Website Design & Hosting Blyth Spirit ...... www.blyth-spirit.com Chez Pujol...... 04 68 82 01 39 Port Vendres ...... www.chezpujol.com Blyth Spirit ...... 04 68 05 86 71 Anglican Church Websites, brochures, flyers, Signs & Vehicle graphics Websites of all size and complexity...... www.blyth-spirit.com Le Château de Riell ****...... 04 68 05 04 40 Vernet-Les-BainS Molitg Les Bains ...... www.chateauderiell.com Professional Photographer Wine & Beer Lionel Moogin – weddings, portraits ...... pholio-m.com Le France...... 04 68 87 11 27 04 68 96 24 58 Ceret La Brasserie De L’Ours...... 04 30 44 36 31 Artisanal Beers ...... labrasseriedelours.com Service Every Sunday at 10am Le Grand Hotel *** ...... 04 68 05 00 50 We look forward to seeing you Molitg Les Bains ...... www.grandhotelmolitg.com V&B - Mas Guerido...... 04 68 86 36 68 .Wine & Beer Cave & Bar LE TRÉMAIL ...... 04 68 82 16 10 Collioure ...... www.restaurant-letremail.fr Loft cafe – Perpignan ...... 04 68 66 88 74 ADVERTISE IN OUR DIRECTORY From ONLY 90 EUROS (HT) per year - contact Michelle on 62 63 06 12 22 23 70 or email [email protected] Properties of charm throughout the Roussillon

Our Property Gallery is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, Sundays and Bank Holidays by appointment We look forward to welcoming you. SOLD SELL YOUR HOME WITH REAL ESTATES While market conditions remain diffi cult, Real Estates bucked the trend with a robust upturn in sales throughout 2012. However, in order to meet the varying demands of our buyers we are constantly looking to increase our property portfolio – ensuring that we have quite simply the very best selection in the region. VENDU Synonymous with exceeding expectations, we’ll ensure you receive exceptional service throughout the process of selling your property; we will work hard to sell your home for the best possible price, in the shortest possible time. To sell your property call today.

VENDRE VOTRE MAISON AVEC REAL ESTATES SOLD Bien que les conditions du marché restent diffi ciles, Real Estates a résisté avec une forte reprise des ventes au cours de l’année 2012. Toutefois, afi n de répondre aux besoins variés de nos acquéreurs nous cherchons constamment à agrandir notre portfolio de propriétés – nous veillons à ce que nous avons tout simplement la meilleure sélection dans la région. En dépassant les VENDU attentes de nos clients, nous vous proposons un service exceptionnel tout au long du processus de la vente de votre propriété ; nous faisons notre maximum pour vendre votre maison au meilleur prix possible, dans les plus brefs délais. Pour vendre votre propriété appelez- nous dès aujourd’hui.

If you are looking to buy or sell a property contact:

Real Estates SARL +33 (0)4.68.56.94.54 1 Place de la République www.real-estates.fr 66400 Céret [email protected] Carte Professionnelle: 66-2010-30-T • Caisse de garantie: QBE France 110.000 euros