Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ■ Fall 2003 ■ Volume XVII, The of 2003: An Anthology

Also Inside: • Lake McDonald Lodge in the ‘40s • Renovating Many shrowds Glacier in the 50s Glacier’s landscape. A foreboding wind • Wrangler Tales brings threat of • Jammer Tales annihilation to the Glacier Park we have • A Memorial to known. ( ? Photo) David Paulus

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 1 The Fires of 2003 Six major fires burned more than 135,000 acres of in Gla- cier National Park in the summer of 2003. This is roughly 13% of Glacier’s total area (including bare rock, water, ice, and snow). The destruction could have been much worse. Lives might have been lost when the fires made sudden runs toward populated areas and Going- to-the-Sun Road. Fires came very close to burning Apgar, West Glacier, Park Headquarters, and irreplaceable historic lodges. Such disasters were averted by the hard and skillful work of inter- agency firefighting crews. Backfires and other tactical maneuvers were conducted with great skill. Many hundreds of firefighters labored for weeks on end in withering heat. The Glacier Park Foundation salutes these determined crews for preserv- ing lives and minimizing damage to the Park.

Glacier Park Foundation Einar Hanson, First Vice President P.O. Box 15641 Carol Dahle, Vice President - Member- Minneapolis, MN 55415 ship www.glacierparkfoundation.org Mac Willemssen, Secretary The Inside Trail takes its Tessie Bundick, Historian name from the famous old Board of Directors: Jim Lees, Treasurer trail which connected Gla- Tessie Bundick The Glacier Park Foundation Laura Chihara was formed by Glacier Park em- cier Park Lodge with the Janet Eisner Cornish ployees and visitors who have a vanished chalets at Two Carol Repulski Dahle deep love for this special place. Medicine, Cut Bank, and St. The Foundation is commited Joyce Daugaard Mary. The name thus em- Glen Elvig both to the importance of wilder- David Gilbertson ness preservation and to the phasizes the publication’s John Hagen importance of places like Glacier focus on the lore and history as classrooms where people Einar Hanson can experience in of Glacier National Park. Paul Hoff intense meaningful ways, learn- We invite submission of Mark Hufstetler ing not only a love for the land, historical, scientific, or anec- Jeff Kuhn but also a respect that nurtures Linda Young Kuhn the skills necessary to preserve dotal articles, commentary, Rolf Larson that land. The Foundation has a poetry, or artwork for publi- Leroy Lott special interest in Glacier Park’s cation in future issues. Greg Notess history, traditions and visitor Mac Willemssen facilities.

2 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail THE FIRES OF 2003: Grinnell Point A Synopsis brooding like Mt. Vesuvius above Many Glacier Ho- tel, enshroud- ed by the smoke of the Trapper . (John Hagen Photo)

500-foot flames raging into the night Valley was evacuated and hundreds During early August, the fires smol- sky on the shores of Lake McDon- of lodge employees were sent to East dered. Then, on August 10, high ald. Fire blazing on Swiftcurrent Glacier. winds blew up the Robert Fire again. Pass, endangering the Many Glacier Within a matter of hours, it ran up Meanwhile, the Robert Fire was Valley. Diners abandoning half-eat- the western shore of Lake McDon- threatening the west entrance to the en meals to evacuate Lake McDon- ald, generating enormous flames. As Park. Robert started through human ald Lodge. dropping night fell, the McDonald Valley was activity southwest of Glacier Park incendiary “ping-pong balls” to set hastily evacuated again. The valley on July 23. It quickly spread into off tactical backfires. These are some remained full of smoke for weeks as Glacier, burning over much of the of the enduring images of Glacier the fire continued to expand. Apgar Mountains. The McDonald Park’s 2003 fire season. Valley was evacuated. On July 28, Meanwhile, more lightning strikes The fires began in the middle of July, 500 residents fled the town of West touched off large fires along the with moisture levels in vegetation Glacier. Park’s south side. For nearly two at record lows. Lightning strikes months, from mid-July to early Backfires were set outside West Gla- on July 16 touched off several fires September, there was no significant cier and Apgar to interdict the fire. which would grow to huge propor- rain. At last, on September 8, heavy The enormous updraft of the Robert tions. These included the Trapper rains drew the most destructive fire Fire sucked the backfires westward Creek fire in the upper McDonald season in the Glacier’s history toward into the main conflagration. This Valley, the Wedge Creek Fire just a close. process created a burned-out fire- outside Glacier in the North Fork, break protecting the two towns. and the Wolf Gun Fire in the Liv- Helicopters and air tankers dropped ingston Range. retardant and water to buffer them The Trapper Creek Fire spread from the backfires. steadily over West Flattop Moun- 500-foot flames raging into the night sky on the shores tain, sending smoke over much of the Park. On July 23, it exploded of Lake McDonald. Fire blazing on Swiftcurrent dramatically, overrunning the Loop Pass, endangering the Many Glacier Valley. Diners on Going-to-the-Sun Road and then abandoning half-eaten meals to evacuate Lake racing uphill to Swiftcurrent Pass. McDonald Lodge. Next morning the Many Glacier The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 3 The Explosion of the Trapper Fire

An interior panorama of the Swift-

current Mountain Lookout wreathed A Lookout’s View

By Christine Baker Trapper decided to make its move. I ing up in Glacier. Temps were high was looking right at it when it did. Back at the Swiftcurrent Fire Lookout and fuel moistures were abysmally That wimpy white column suddenly after a 10-year hiatus at Huckleberry low. I had this wild card hunch grew tall, turned to brown, then black. Lookout was like heaven in 2001. that I might not be home again for Then it was wider ... and moving. I Oh, I loved my time at Huckle- a long, long time. Nothing I could remember calling the Fire Cache berry—the bears, the North Fork, the put into words or even share with and trying to sound calm, controlled fire challenges—but I almost felt like my husband Bob, but I found myself — but feeling that this was pretty darn it was retirement for me to be back at boxing up double rations for my outrageous and that they’d better get Swifty. Let the North Fork lookouts next pack trip. I didn’t really know on the stick and DO something. “It’s do all the heavy work—I’d just look why – I just did it. As it turned out, crowning!” I remember saying, and it out over all this beautiful, nonflamma- those would prove to be the last four was … and moving fast. ble scenery all summer and interpret days off I would have for the rest of for visitors. Now, a crowning fire is a big con- the summer. cern—kind of like that magic num- Wrong. 2003 would set me right. It When I arrived back at Swiftcur- ber “7” on the California earthquake would prove to be one for the history rent, Flattop Mountain was puffing scales. I kept telling myself not to books, and would show us all once here and there, but the just panic. After all, this was in the middle more just why those hard-bitten old weren’t that impressive. The light- of Flattop Mountain—there’s just park planners had decided back in ning storm had planted its seeds, but not as much that a fire can really hurt 1936 to build a lookout atop—of all nothing much was showing yet. I there. Granite Park was a concern, places—Swiftcurrent Mountain. settled in, put a little extra care into but the fire movement was toward the I drove home for lieu days that hot my afternoon scans, and turned my northeast, and Granite looked okay— July weekend, all the while trying to attention to my revised lesson plans at first. My real concern was Swiftcur- ignore the nagging feeling in the pit of for Beowulf. rent Valley, and making sure nothing my stomach that I really shouldn’t be remotely resembling a spark would There was no mistaking it when taking leave. Conditions were heat- ever touch an east side fir . What 4 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail night, should an evacuation become was happening on Flattop was huge, Michael Ober called on the radio necessary. but that fire had lots of bare rock and asked if that was my car parked and a couple of glaciers here and there at the Loop. I told him where Night fell, and finally I could see there to cross before it could even my spare keys were hidden, thinking, the fire appear through the smoke touch the east side. Surely it couldn’t “They can’t do anything—they’re as a thousand points of flame and cross the Divide ...? just booking trying to get visitors torching . It was like looking at out of there. I wonder if we’re paid the Milky Way from Babb on a clear I can remember using the word up on our insurance?” At this point evening. So humbling. The sheer “surreal” a lot in my journal that I called Bob on the cell and told him area of land that the fire had traveled afternoon. It didn’t take too long to get used to the idea of not hav- over since that small white puff of before my vista towards the west was ing the car we had just purchased a smoke at 2 P.M. the afternoon before nothing but amber billows of smoke month before. was enough to inspire awe. I re- and embers. Visibility deteriorated member just staring a lot in unbelief. to nothing, and I began coughing Many Glacier personnel were all ears Sleep wasn’t even an option. This from the intense smoke. I wasn’t as they listened to west side radio was history, and I was privileged to sure whether I should be concerned traffic. They needed to know just have a front row seat. I cradled my about that or not, so I soaked a ban- where the fire was and what was the head on and off on my pillow just danna in water and took to breath- potential threat to the valley. Time marveling at what was before me. ing through it to filter some of the for them was crucial. Once the fire My beautiful Glacier was growing, soot. That got old fast, so I discard- was on their side of the rock, the changing, undergoing those epochal ed the bandanna and just coughed clock would be ticking. I couldn’t upheavals that we so blithely spout and took my chances. tell them a whole lot because I was are natural and destined, but to actu- in a sea of smoke and flying debris. By this time I figured the fire could ally have them happen on our watch Bob Adams and Rachel Jenkins hun- are so — difficult and foreign. be anywhere below me. I knew kered down to monitor their radios Chris Burke down at the Chalet at Many Glacier Ranger Station all Suddenly I caught sight of orange was moving fast to get hoses and sprinklers operating and that meant the fire was probably also moving southeast. I could only imagine what kind of chaos was going on down at Granite right now. Sun Road was being evacuated, and I remem- ber thinking, “YES – fi- nally!” Then out of the blue, I thought of my car parked down at the Loop. If the fire plowed across McDonald Creek and onward, my car would be smack dab in its path. Toast. Almost simultaneously, ranger Swiftcurrent Lookout found itself in the middle of the action this past summer. (Christine Baker Photo)

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 5 Explosion of the Trapper Fire continued below me and to the south. Even in secure. granted. They weren’t there. Instead the dark, I knew that the fire now I saw blackened ghosts and charred A month later, after weeks of was on the switchbacks to the look- ground cover. I hiked through a watching Trapper have its way with out. And once it was there, it could lunar landscape that I knew was my memories of Flattop Mountain jump over almost anytime. Down both natural order and devastation. and the Highline Trail, I hiked down at Many, Bob and Rachel, too, could I thrilled and mourned all at once. I from my lookout for the season, see the dragon’s eyes peeking over don’t think I will ever feel that again. heading for a way-too-soon end the pass. The firs below me were to my summer and a begrudging Next spring there will be glacier lilies scrub, no taller than eight feet or so, beginning of another school year. there, and Glacier will go on, as it but each one that torched was like I regaled in the switchbacks down has these many years before we came a match igniting, sending an initial to the treeline, gazing out over the to love it so. And God will show us plume of flame high into the air. I pristine beauty of the Divide that we anew how permanent, how unpre- couldn’t help myself. I stepped out all have come to love no matter from dictable, and how beautiful this and took a picture in the dark, hop- what perspective we view it. special place in Montana really is. ing I’d get some sort of image of the fire to remember the moment. But then I came to the trees—those (Christine Baker has worked in beautiful firs I have come to love— Glacier since 1970 as a Rising Sun Later on the fire spread east along my friends and companions on my employee, , and fire the mountain, but because I was on ascents and descents of Swiftcurrent lookout) top, I couldn’t see just where it was. Mountain—the ones that frame The higher cliffs and ledges of the Heaven’s Peak in all my photos and mountain hid it from me. But along that my kids have learned to take for about two in the morning I could see an orange glow from below me and to the southeast. I figured it had traveled through the fir stand across the base of the mountain, but I felt confident it hadn’t gotten beyond Devil’s Elbow. All night I watched that glow. At times I wrestled with whether I should call Many, but the glow didn’t travel, and I knew the wee hours and higher humidities of the morning would calm the beast of the Trapper Fire. At about 2:30 A.M. I saw four dis- tinct spot fires north of me and east of the Divide. They were pinpoints, Burned trees but they were there—fires on the on the flanks east side. Still, their location was so of Swiftcur- remote, and they would have huge rent Moun- distances of rock to cross before they tain. (Chris- could ever ignite anything flamma- tine Baker ble. I sat glued to them until at last Photo) they disappeared. Gone? I couldn’t be sure. But by 5 A.M. I felt more

6 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail The Trapper Fire Overruns the Loop: A Ranger’s View By Michael J. Ober conducting the sweep of cars in be- Meanwhile, Gary, who is below us tween, sending them east or west to at the West Tunnel, radios that he is Four till midnight shift. Wednesday, clear the road of visitors in the path “inching my way up to the Loop to July 23. Only thing different on of the fire. We’ve done this before. see if I can get through”. Angie and this shift is that I pick up a ride-a- We know the routine. Then came I are stopped in the middle of the long partner and fellow law enforce- the unexpected twist. Folks we had road when, moments later, Gary’s ment ranger, Angie Rutherford, our sent DOWN the road from above Ford Expedition emerges from the Bowman Lake Ranger, down from the Loop were coming back to our black and orange inferno that has the North Fork for eight hours of position at Crystal Point explain- swallowed up the entire Loop area. road patrol duties. Get the patrol ing, with wide eyes and incredulous “It’s not too bad,” he reports, “I car, check the lights, radio, trunk looks, that they couldn’t get through think we can make it back down.” gear, check each other’s gear, load because the fire was right next to the We roll up the windows, Angie shifts the shotgun, prepare the shift report Loop! into gear and we follow him cau- and head up to the Pass from Apgar. tiously downhill into the fire zone. Apart from the relentless columns of This can’t be happening. We had smoke from the Wedge and Trapper just been there and, while we were Of concern to all of us is the ac- fires, the evening is calm with lots of obliged to eat smoke, the passage ap- counting of people and vehicles at summer traffic and otherwise clear peared safe for visitors. Angie and the Loop so that we can be certain sky. Angie and I settle in with easy I quickly proceed down towards the that everyone was evacuated and conversation, catching up on each Loop. It takes only a few curves in away from the threat. Gary radios us other’s summer events. the road and less than one quarter of that there are two vehicles left at the a mile to recognize that something is Loop but that he cannot ascertain By the time we reach the Loop it is terribly awry with the Trapper Fire. where the occupants are. There is clear that something is not right with And worse, now we are trapped also a lone bicycle resting against the the Trapper Fire. Angry and restless, above the Loop with no way down rock wall of the upper parking lot. brooding for some kind of note- along with several cars of east bound If they are up on the Loop Trail … worthy run after slowly chewing up visitors emerging from the wall of well, there is simply nothing any of ground fuels for days, whole groups smoke who are whizzing by us flash- us can do. of trees are beginning to torch, black ing their lights and shaking their clouds of smoke are arising from the When we arrive at the Loop it is heads at us with the silent message Upper McDonald Valley in huge dark, eerily dark. Fire is on both “you don’t want to go down there”. volumes. Visibility is deteriorat- sides of the road licking at anything ing. Our Comm Center calls and Meanwhile, our radio is bursting combustible with a hungry, calm informs us that the Trapper Incident with traffic. Swiftcurrent Lookout crackle. Short canopy runs are hap- Command has declared that the road Chris Baker is reporting that her pening both below and above the must be closed immediately because lookout is engulfed in thick dark parking lot; brush and ground fuels of imminent runs near the Loop and smoke and that just before the view are burning steadily and burning we begin communication with other closed in on her, it was clear that the branches, large and small, are fall- patrol units to shut the road down. fire was making a run uphill from ing all around, debris is everywhere, Mineral Creek. Our maintenance layers of burned pine needles like Donna from the east side swings the personnel at Granite Park Chalet thousands of fallen soldiers litter the gate at Big Bend and Cory from our radio that they are trying desperately road surface. side closes the gate at Avalanche. to collect hikers and guests at the Angie and I, in our vehicle, and our When you jump out of an air-con- chalet while starting the pumps for supervisor, Gary, in his vehicle, start ditioned patrol vehicle into such a structural protection.

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 7 A Ranger’s View continued scene, the sensation that embraces keys finally in hand, I race to the green-gray plastic. you the most is the heat. Heat door, unlock it, start up and shove Postscript: Two Incident Command just pours off the road surface, the the pedal down. Nothing. Oh, no! overhead personnel performed a nearby rocks, even the trees them- Parking brake! Where is the release? daring walk in the dark up the Loop selves that are pulsing smoke or Look. Look. Got it. Roar out of Trail immediately after the fire swept flames and sending hot air every- there and swing in behind the wait- through. We thought we had hikers where. Gary stops his Expedition ing patrol vehicle. Go Angie, I whis- trapped on the trail and they were and races toward the bicycle. I follow per. Then out loud, “Go Angie!” sure they were looking for fatalities. and we literally throw the bike into But she’s already gone, streaking Fortunately, the hikers did turn back the back of his vehicle. I jump back downhill from the fire zone emerg- or they would certainly have died on in the passenger seat of the patrol car ing soon into the daylight cool of the trail that got nuked in less than and Angie follows Gary around the the highway near the West Tunnel. two hours. swirling arc of the Loop. As Gary And as I accelerate away from heat had reported to us, there are two cars (Michael J. Ober is a Glacier Park and fire, I glance out of the win- left at the upper and lower parking Ranger based at the Lake McDonald dow to see two of the porta-potties lots, but that they both appear to be Ranger Station) on fire and see that a third one has locked and there is clearly no time melted and collapsed into the slope, to attempt to save them, no time to a molten heap of bubbling, smoking linger. The Trapper is really blowing up around us. As we speed by the second car, a Chevy Tahoe with Idaho plates, it strikes Angie and me at the same moment, “Oh, no! That’s Chris Baker’s car.” She’s one of our own. Our Swiftcurrent lookout. I get on the radio and call her and explain, “Chris, I need to know exactly where your keys are…there won’t be much time.” She knows what I mean and describes the secret hiding place. Angie already has the patrol car turned around and is heading back to the Loop. When we arrive at the lower parking lot, I spring from the A stark air-conditioned car into the heat landscape again and tell Angie to get turned greets Joe downhill in preparation for a quick Haugestuen exit. of Shelby Montana Chris’ Tahoe is facing uphill and in late alongside a burning hillside with September. flames just three feet from her rear (Rolf Larson bumper. I try to steady myself by Photo) placing my hand on the rear panel of the car to retrieve the hidden keys but it is just too hot to touch. With 8 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Reconnoitering in the Smoke: A Many Glacier Ranger’s View by Bob Adams see the divide or Chris Baker. Radio pervisor and director of homeless shelter contact with Chris established that she operations for Bob Adams, Abigail Ad- We knew there was trouble ahead. The could see nothing on our side of the ams, Clay Rubano and Rachel Jenkins. sky was dark. Swiftcurrent Pass and pass, either. Helicopters could see noth- All of us checking in at the St. Mary Swiftcurrent Peak were both obscured. ing, due to smoke. Visitor Center for post-evac instruc- Wilbur was seen but dimly. Darkness tions.and wondering if we’d ever see our at noon. There was concern whether fire was “homes” again as we had left them. 12- spotting into the adjacent Iceberg By late July, we had been getting used to hour shifts for days on end, punctuated cirque, north of Wilbur. No “visual” “two packs a day” for particulate. But by “free lunch” on the Park’s tab. Good from the helo there, either. Your on the afternoon of July 23, charred food. Little sleep. Returning to Many seasonal rangers decided to bail. We pine bark larger than a Texas license Glacier days later — untouched but for had no more info than when we started. plate came pinwheeling down into the the trail crew “brush hogs” and chain Just more apprehension, and day’s end Many Glacier parking lot, followed saws. Many Glacier as a shorn poodle. deepening the gloom. by burned out sticks larger than your “Best of Show,” however, was returning thumb’s diameter. Back at Many Glacier Ranger Station, to an intact, uncharred Many Glacier! seasonal law enforcement ranger Paul Chris Baker, the Swiftcurrent lookout, (Bob Adams has worked as a seasonal Unterbrinck was advising the gathered just three and one-half miles west of ranger naturalist at Many Glacier for 29 community of an impending evacuation us, had zero visibility. From the Many years) . My Bear Management partner Rachel Glacier Ranger Station, we had, at Jenkins was chewing me out for reckless, most, one and one-half miles of sight. unthinking behavior. “Well,” said I, Where’s the fire? The wind was steady “we could have run down into Redrock at 20-25 mph, gusting to 40 out of the Lake.” “Yeah, right, Bob!” And she west. From the darkened pass. was right. Rachel knows wildland fire No one at MG could get any definite behavior. word about our situation. So Ranger Later that night, several of us were on Naturalist Dave Benson and I decided, “Sheep Curve” just downroad from “We’d better find out.” In an effort to the Many Glacier Hotel junction. We determine if the fire were spotting into were watching the fire spotting into the Swiftcurrent Valley, we set out on Swiftcurrent Pass as well as burning foot with radios (but no fire shelters). up toward Chris Baker at the lookout. We hiked up toward Redrock Lake to Would it drop into the head of the val- get a vantage point to give early warning ley? At least we could see without the to the station, should the fire actually be afternoon’s pall of smoke. Although no bearing down on us all. fire entered our valley, we all evacuated Dave and I placed ourselves on the high MG in the morning. No prompting rocks above and just west of Redrock was necessary. Lake. There we watched. Soot, smoke, Some further reflections: I remember wind, anxiety. Waiting. Dave, ac- these details, these feelings. Trying to complished ornithologist, allowed that find drivers for three cars and having the wind was ramped up enough to see only two family drivers available. Get- goats fly. Hmmm. Maybe we ought to ting to St. Mary and not being able fly... back to Many. to find a toothbrush or underwear for There was no way for us to see what was several days despite having dumped dropping into the valley ahead of us. A everything out of those cars in the style visually impenetrable wall of smoke was of a giant garage sale. The generosity of about 3/4 mile ahead. We still couldn’t Paul Downey, Eastside Backcountry Su-

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 9 Granite Park: A Hungry Horse News View

?

10 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Evacuating the Lodges: A General Manager’s Diary By Cindy Ognjanov July 24 – 5:30AM July 24 – 9:30AM July 23 – 10:00PM We arrive and everyone knows where Same meeting at Swiftcurrent. Every- to go and what to do. I go to the front one is leaving – as we leave Swift we The phone is ringing – must be an desk at Many and try to help with the can see the fire in the Pass. I am very emergency; otherwise they wouldn’t be checkout that is already in progress. pleased we have gotten everyone out calling me this late. It’s Colin Burrows, The warehouse trucks have backed to safely. the manager at Many Glacier. He says, the kitchen and the crews are loading all “There’s a ranger in the lobby telling July 24 – 11:00AM of the perishable food from the walk- everyone we are under a voluntary ins and freezers. The gift shop crew is My cell phone has a message on it, so I evacuation order.” I tell him I’ll find methodically putting all the t-shirts and stop on the top of a hill on my way back out what’s going on and call him back. stuffed animals into plastic bags and to East and call my office. Unbeliev- I hang up, and before I can dial the removing all of the high cost jewelry, able — the Robert Fire on the west side phone is ringing again. This time it’s statues and pottery – as soon as they has exploded. We have until 3:00 this Clint Davis from Swiftcurrent telling are done loading the food we will put afternoon to evacuate Village Inn and the same story. all this in the truck as well. The main- Lake McDonald Lodge. I hang up and call the East Side Dis- tenance guys have been asked to take July 24 – 11:45AM trict Ranger. Sure enough, the Trapper down all of the paintings; they are going Creek Fire has come across Swiftcur- too. I have notified everyone about what is rent Pass. If it decides to run … well, July 24 – 6:30AM happening on the west side. We unload anything could happen. I call Colin one of the warehouse trucks, grab and Clint back and tell them to notify I go to Swiftcurrent. The exact same three more vans and off we go to Lake each guest individually that there is no process is happening there. These two McDonald. Thank goodness for cell immediate danger, but you never know. groups of people are a very efficient phones. While my husband is driving, I A handful of guests decide to leave. team. am on the phone trying to find out ex- actly what is happening. No one seems July 23 – 11:00PM July 24 – 8:00AM to know too much – only that there are After numerous phone calls between my I go to the Ranger Station to receive an fires out of control and on the move. hotel managers and the Park Service, I update on the status of the fire. It’s not July 24 – 1:30PM call each of my Division Directors and good. It is still moving, albeit slowly, tell them to come to my house immedi- but with these hot dry conditions they I arrive at Village Inn. Thank heaven ately for a meeting. Within ten minutes keep saying anything could happen. Lynn seems to have everything under they are all there. While sitting around I heard references to Heavens Peak control. I leave her to finish and go to the dining room table we formulate an – scary! Lake McDonald Lodge. When I arrive evacuation plan. there most of the guests are gone and all July 24 – 9:00AM of the employees have started to pack. July 24 – 1:00AM All of the guests at Many and Swift have All of the Directors start loading the I try to get a couple hours sleep. We gone. I have called an all-employee truck with all of the food, retail items will all meet at 4:00 AM so that we can meeting at Many. I give them the latest and paintings. I call another all-em- be at Many and Swift by daylight. I call report on the fire and ask them to please ployee meeting. both hotel managers and tell them to do go to their rooms and pack their belong- July 24 – 2:30PM complimentary continental breakfasts ings, then proceed immediately to East in the lobby in the morning and be Glacier. I give them a time deadline to I ask all of the Lake employees to do the prepared to evacuate. report to East. I know if we lose them same procedure as I asked of the Many now we might never get them back. We and Swift folks. Even as I am talking July 24 – 4:00AM insist they sign out when they leave the to them, I am asking myself where in Two warehouse trucks, four vans, a room and then sign back in when they the world we are going to put all these pickup truck and two cars head for the get to East. My HR team is waiting for people. Many Glacier Valley. them in the Moccasin Room at East. The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 11 July 24 – 3:30PM keep everyone informed. We had a big the perimeter of the Lodge, it looked outdoor party and bar-b-que on the as if we might not get open again this We are past our deadline but are not front lawn at East Glacier. We did ev- summer. Once again, I called another quite done – we have a couple more erything we could to keep them happy all-employee meeting. This time I buses of employees to load. We also and occupied. I knew we would get to had to tell them that choices had to be have five red buses with no drivers and reopen soon and I didn’t want to lose made. Anyone who wanted to work we can’t find the keys. A bit of panic them. Sure enough, two days later we could go to one of the other hotels. It sets in but we find the keys (in the trunk were able to go back to Many and Swift was a difficult time to say the least. of my car). We split up so that we have and we did so without losing a single enough drivers and by 4:00PM we are When we reopened Lake and Village employee. For them it became a really leaving Lake McDonald. As we leave ten days later we did so with 1/3 the nice break in the middle of the season. ash is falling like snow. Once again I normal staff. Many of the young people say a little prayer of thanks knowing The Lake McDonald and Village Inn decided to stay where they were rather that everyone has gotten away safely. folks weren’t as lucky. It took twelve than go back and take the chance of days before we could reopen, but were another evacuation. It was okay. The July 24 – 6:00PM we ever happy when we were able to heavy smoke kept occupancy at an all We have arrived back at East Glacier do so. For all the employees it was like time low for the next four weeks so we and what a sight – there are employees going “home”. Unfortunately, five days managed with our small group of em- everywhere. The cafeteria is overflow- later the Robert Fire burned its way the ployees – God bless them all! ing, but what a beautiful spread the entire length of the lake in a matter of a (Cindy Ognjanov is President and Gen- chefs have put out for all of these “fire few hours and we started the evacuation eral Manager of Glacier Park, Inc.) refugees”. The HR gals have done process all over again. an amazing job of finding space for What a gut wrenching time this was. As everyone to sleep. The Moccasin Room the Park Service was installing sprinklers is fast filling up with mattresses. A tent on the roofs of the cabins and all around city has sprung up over by the Jammer Dorm. The back lawn has its share of sleeping bags. Unbelievably, every single employee showed up and now they are all anxious to know what is going on. July 24 – 7:00PM One more all-employee meeting. There are probably 500 people at this meeting. I report what I know (which isn’t much) and then answer many, many questions. July 24 – 10:00PM I am finally at home and can’t believe Grinnell Point what has happened today. I am sure that never before have four hotels (on brooding two sides of the Park) had to be evacu- above Many ated in the same day because of two Glacier Hotel, different forest fires. is threatened by the smoke Over the next few days emotions were of the Trapper running high. It took the Park Service a few days to put together their fire Fire. (John team and information was a bit tough Hagen Photo) to come by. Nevertheless, we had twice daily meetings to answer questions and

12 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail The Evacuation of the McDonald Valley: A Homeowner’s View by Mary Grace Severson Galvin neighbors, Mark and Linda Kuhr, have the evacuation order lifted. We were just leaving also, and they found sprinklers pouring water over On July 24, a Glacier Park ranger graciously shared some room in their our cabin. Glacier’s Superintendent came knocking on the door of our bigger vehicle. Then we drove away Mick Holm had instructed district inholder’s cabin just north of Lake to refuge in our home in Kalispell. ranger Charlie Logan to sprinkle the McDonald Lodge. We were told inholders’ homes. We were deeply that the valley was being evacuated. Two hours later, Jim and our son-in- grateful. The Robert Fire was threatening law returned from their hike to find West Glacier and the western en- the road blocked at West Glacier. A Two weeks later, on August 10, the trance to Going-to-the-Sun Road. ranger told them that we had evacu- Robert Fire blew up again. That ated safely. Jim called with his cell night we were in bed when the evac- When the ranger came, I was at the phone to make sure that we had the uation order arrived with a knocking cabin with my daughter and two dog. He described the scene beyond at our door. With no time to spare, grandchildren. My husband Jim and the gate as “very, very scary – just we grabbed what we could and flew my son-in-law were away on a hike black and red.” down the road. To our horror, we in another part of the Park. The could see the fire raging down Howe evacuation order was mandatory and While we were in Kalispell, we vol- Ridge toward our end of the lake. In urgent, however, and we had to leave unteered at Flathead County’s Emer- some locations, the fire was cascad- the valley without them. gency Coordination Center. There, ing down the ridge wiping out every the United Way provided evacuees We filled our small car with as many tree in its path, with the lake the with food and shelter. We were glad keepsakes as we could pack in it only reason it was stopped. to be able to help some of the hun- – not many, since we had to trans- dreds of travelers far from home who Kelly’s Camp, across the lake from port four people and a dog. Our were displaced by the fires. us, was greatly at risk. The fire fight- On July 27, we were thrilled to

The Robert Fire boils along Howe Ridge in mid- August. (LS Photo)

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 13 A Homeowner’s View continued ers did burnouts there to save the Vaught, and then sweep down across Miles of destroyed forest ran right camp. More burnouts stabilized the the Going-to-the-Sun Road. On down to the lake. It was the sad- fire. Deo Gratias! On August 16, September 8, however, the miracle dest boat trip we have ever taken. Jim and I were able to return to our that we had all been praying for ar- After that we pulled our boat out of cabin to stay. Needless to say, we did rived in the form of RAIN. We had the lake and stored it for the win- not bring back any of the treasures about five hours of steady showers ter. That was truly a “season ending we had removed in the evacuation.... and accumulated 3/4 of an inch. It event”! Join us in sending up prayers only food and my lap top. doesn’t sound like much, but it had of thanksgiving for the timely rain. At that point, only the cabins right me dancing barefoot in the grass! (Mary Grace Galvin is Vice Presi- around the Lodge were safe to in- The rain, though not a “season end- dent of the Glacier Natural History habit. Things were still too spooky ing event,” decisively slowed the Association) to allow the folks at the head of the advance of the fire. lake or at Kelly’s Camp to return. It We unwrapped our boat from the was very smoky, and we did not go space blankets it had been bundled outside any more than we had to. into since the fires had started, and The DeSmet (the launch on the charged up the lake to see the big lake) had been hired to carry firemen burn near Apgar. It was a devastat- to Kelly’s Camp each day. On the ing sight. It looked like a war zone. first day, the smoke on the lake was so thick that the DeSmet got lost in a white out. Later they obtained a compass, so that they could make The DeSmet had been hired to carry firemen the trip without getting lost. to Kelly’s Camp each day. On the first day, the By early September, the fire had smoke on the lake was so thick that the DeSmet burned down to Trout Lake and got lost in a white out. all around the west flank of Mt. Stanton. The fear was that it would climb between Stanton and Mt.

Photo taken of the DeSmet during the Robert Fire.

14 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail The Evacuation of the Fish Creek Campground: A Ranger Family’s Perspective by Zig Steele tion, and told him we were set to go. hasty retreat out of Fish Creek Camp- He was at Fish Creek in an instant and ground. This is an account of the Robert Fire asked if we were sure everyone was out. and the ensuing Fish Creek Camp- Leaving the park, we had an eerie feel- Maggie handed over her color-coded ground evacuation as it involved the ing as we passed through the unmanned map and Harry hopped in his truck. Steele family. My wife Harry (Harriet) entrance station and fully realized the They did a final drive-through inspec- Steele is the campground supervisor. seriousness of the situation. Stopping tion and left evacuation notices at the Our fourteen-year-old daughter Maggie at Headquarters for further directions handful of sites where camping gear still and I also live at the Fish Creek Ranger and information, we found only a few remained. Station. essential staffers still remaining. We left During the rushed drive through the the park that day not realizing that we Thursday, July 24, was Harry’s day off. campground, Gary confided to Harry had just spent our last “normal” night of With the temperatures expected to be that he feared this was “Yellowstone all the summer at Fish Creek. over 100 degrees again, the family was over again.” Gary had been a ranger at making a beeline for Hungry Horse Afterthoughts: you never know how Yellowstone National Park during the Reservoir for a day of fun and sun in the people are going to react in emergency firestorm of 1988 and had a bad feeling water. Just as we were about to leave situations. I am so proud of our daugh- about the situation now unfolding in the ranger station, Dave Duncan, one of ter Maggie, who acted with courage. It Glacier. When the duo finished their the morning rangers on duty, knocked would have been understandable for rounds, Gary told all of us, “You guys on our door and advised Harry to get someone her age to panic or get hysteri- did a great job!” We much appreciated in her uniform because Fish Creek was cal. Instead, she bravely did what was his praise as we had just spent a tense being evacuated. necessary. and stress-filled couple of hours. We weren’t completely surprised, During the campers’ because the night before many park evacuation we did not employees had congregated at the “wa- have time to pack up our tering hole” in West Glacier to mull the own belongings in our situation over. It was a consensus that residence at the ranger this was serious and that the “Blan- station. Gary told us not kenship Fire” (as we called it before it to take much time. We became known as the Robert Fire) was threw our things haphaz- going to have a major impact on Gla- ardly into our vehicles. cier. Somebody had mounted a map on With signs of the huge the wall in Freda’s showing the progress smoke plume getting of the fire. For most of us, it was a car- ever bigger and blacker nival-like atmosphere, a chance to share around us, we beat a concerns, swap stories, and speculate on what might be, without being in any “real,” imminent danger. Lingering smoke The only ones not in a festive mood were the local merchants, who, while conceals the under the blanket of smoke that had far shoreline engulfed West Glacier, quickly sized from Fish up the situation and realized that the Creek summer might be shot and that it very Campground. well could be a long, cold winter. As (Rolf Larson the evening drew to an end and people Photo) ranger in charge of the park’s evacua-

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 15 Views from the Sun Road by Karen Heller We drove back through westbound on Lake McDonald. Late that evening they Sunday the 10th (the day the Robert evacuated Lake McDonald Lodge by Another former Glacier employee, Fire ran up Lake McDonald). It was just turning out all the guests to their Melissa Jacoby Rickert, and I drove up hot, dry, and very windy. We could see cars! to Glacier on August 6. Sun Road was the fires all kicking up and lots of open open, but we had to be across Logan I heard later from some Lake McDonald flames visible west and south of the Pass by 6 PM. No stopping was al- Lodge employees that they were sitting Loop. As we passed Lake McDonald, lowed between Avalanche and about on the shore watching the fire across the the fire across the lake was sending up the Haystack Creek area. The area west lake as it turned dark. They were trying huge plumes of smoke. It was clearly of the Loop was totally blackened. The to see who could catch the biggest piece out of control, and we couldn’t believe Loop Trail entrance is burnt out, and I of ash falling out of the cloud of smoke that they still had the road open. It was hear that the bridge is gone there. I also over them. Then some burning pieces very crowded, and we figured all the heard that the porta-potties melted and three feet long with branches on them locals were up to check out the blazes. had to be cleaned up and hauled away. starting landing a few feet from them, All the side areas were roped off. Fire The smoke was bad in West Glacier, and and they became concerned! They were had gone across pretty close to the point we went into Columbia Falls, where evacuated very quickly after that. of the Loop, and trees were scorched it got worse from fires southwest of (Karen Heller was the nurse at Many back about as far as the parking area. Kalispell. We stayed at Lake Five and Glacier Hotel in 1970-71 and in 2000- Lots of smoking areas were visible. watched a huge cumulus-type smoke 2001) cloud form northeast of there, which turned out to be over the west shore of

Fire Signs in West Glacier by Lois Ann Smith in our direction. My summer home is in West Glacier. I went off to stay at the home of a That meant that this summer I had a daughter in Kalispell. In a week the front row seat for the Robert Fire, which evacuation was lifted, and we were all at times seemed to be in my back yard! back and businesses opened up. But the My car had already been packed with Each evening the Incident Command rest of the summer was to be a smoke- the important and needed things. As Team held a Fire Information Meeting filled marathon of lightning strikes and I left my little log cabin, I was greatly at the local school to bring us all the subsequent fires in and around us in comforted by the two fire engines, a current data: weather predictions, fire every direction! water “pumpkin” and several volunteer progress, evacuation possibilities, etc. fire fighters who had taken their posi- For six weeks, signs of fire were every- There were maps and printouts for all tion directly across the street from my where around Glacier – the haze and and patient and complete answers to home! Their duty was to watch over the smell of smoke in the air, the sun look- all questions (no matter how stupid or houses on Glacier Avenue in case the ing like an eerie red orb in the sky, white repetitive!). fire, burning then about a mile and a plumes rising ever higher, men and One night the final announcement was, half away, blew up and moved quickly women in yellow shirts and hard hats, “When the blows three times, with 30 second intervals, you will know an evacuation has been ordered.” We had “When the siren blows three times, with been forewarned to gather our impor- tant papers, precious pictures, and some 30 second intervals, you will know an personal items, and “be ready.” Late evacuation has been ordered.” the next afternoon, the siren blew, and within an hour, I was “out of there.”

16 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail helicopters dragging buckets for dip- from ideal living and working condi- night before. Four to six inches of snow ping water, fire engines in unexpected tions helped save our precious Glacier had fallen! Unusual for September, but places busses and vans full of guys and Park from near disaster. HOW WELCOME! girls with tired, sooty faces. But there The good news came on September 17th (Lois Ann Smith worked at Lake were other signs that caught my interest as I boarded the Amtrak train for St. McDonald Lodge in 1946 and at Fish in and around the west side of the Park, Paul. We traveled along the south edge Creek Campground from 1952-64) and they, too, tell the fire story. of the Park through a Christmas card There were warnings and closures, fairyland of snow-covered trees, bushes, information and directions, and fire fence-posts – even the blackened burned sales. The signs I liked best, however, areas were transformed. The “fire-sea- were thank-yous to the courageous, son ending event” had come during the hard-working fire fighters. Their tireless efforts in record-breaking heat and far

Efforts were Appreciated!

Photo for collage courtesy of LS.

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 17 An Incident Commander’s View by Steve Frye entire event vicariously, it provided a or the relationships between agencies, renewed appreciation and understand- communities, individuals, and Incident The 2003 wildfire season presented a ing for the very personal and emotional Management Teams that really deter- unique and very personal perspective on effect that threats from natural emer- mines how the fire will be fought and in the less prominent, more obscure effects gencies, events that in large measure the end how communities and individu- of large, complex fire management oper- are completely outside of all but the als will be cared for. ations. As one of 16 National Incident smallest amount of human control, Commanders charged with managing The Incident Management Teams, produce. As an Incident Commander large complex wildland fires where ever Communities, and individuals assigned I was reminded of how crucial it is to they occur in the , I was to and/or affected by the fires in around recognize and acknowledge the intensely assigned, along with my Incident Man- Glacier this past summer have every rea- personal impact caused by large natural agement Team, to a complex of fires in son to very proud of themselves individ- “disasters” and how important it is to the Bitterroot, Beaverhead-Deerlodge, ually, but most importantly they should take whatever action is possible and and Salmon Challis National , be proud of the way they came together feasible to alleviate that angst. while the Robert Fire in Northwest to help each other when confronted Montana threatened my own home, in The most enduring memories of my fire by the most significant fire season in West Glacier. fighting career are of the people that I Northwest Montana since 1910. have had the opportunity to work with For the first time in a wildland fire This past summer reminded all of and for and of the individuals and com- career that has spanned more than 30 us once again, that regardless of our munities that I have seen drawn togeth- years I found myself, actually my family technical skill, the number and type of er by shared risk and the selfless com- and my home, in a situation that I had resources we commit to the fight, and/ mitment of neighbors helping neighbors agonized and empathized with others or the ability of those resources, that in and communities helping communities. through as an Incident Commander a fire dependent ecosystem … Mother At the end of the day this business is charged with keeping them and their Nature always bats last. all about relationships — whether it’s homes safe from a large fire. And… I the relationships among fuels, weather, (Steve Frye is Chief Ranger of Glacier was experiencing the worry, concern, and topography that effect fire behavior National Park) and uncertainty from more than 200 miles away while making every effort to keep the fire we were assigned to from entering a small Idaho town and many The Role of An Incident Commander scattered rural residences. by Beth Blacker when Incident Commander Joe Stam This juxtaposition of circumstances detailed the plan to burn out the south Reflecting on the forest fires of last sum- side of Apgar Mountain and the east side created a host of enduring memories; mer brings many thoughts to mind but of the Camas Road in an effort to save among them, the incredible support and by far the strongest memory I have was the communities of West Glacier, Apgar accomplishment that is possible when watching the Type I incident command- and Lake McDonald. ers competently handle the many facets neighbors come together to help neigh- of their demanding jobs. Of course, I After listening to the strategies developed bors in a time of need, the unfailing have a biased interest in ICs. For nine by the team to direct the fires away from commitment and expertise that Incident months out the year I live with Steve the communities, I honestly believe I was Management Teams demonstrate when Frye, one of the best ICs in the nation. more worried about the stress I saw on The other three months of the year he Joe’s face as he was leaving the meet- confronted with extraordinarily danger- travels, as do other Incident Command- ing than about the fate of our new house ous and complex challenges, the surpris- ers, with their team of specialists, from located at the base of Apgar Mountain. In ing number of things that, as a home- fire to fire until winter settles in to our Joe, I could see Steve calmly assuring a owner…and fire manager, I should have parched forests. community of their safety, while privately done but hadn’t quite gotten around to, running dozens of scenarios through his The relative calm presented by Inci- mind. The burnout of Apgar Mountain and most importantly the unbelievable dent Commanders at daily community was successful and awesome to witness. energy, tenacity, patience, and resource- meetings is nothing short of miraculous The IC was right — but I never doubted fulness that my wife unwaveringly considering the stress involved in man- that for a minute! aging a raging inferno. I attended many exhibited throughout the entire ordeal. community meetings during the sum- (Beth Blacker is a Budget Analyst for mer of 2003. The most memorable was Glacier National Park) Despite the fact that I experienced the

18 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail A Student’s View by Megan Frye I can honestly say that I was not expect- get to live through this? But once the ing the rumor of evacuation to come reality hit, I ended up living with knots As a high school student, I found the true. Of course, my friends and I had in my stomach for the week we were entire fire situation a great learning ex- been discussing how awesome it would displaced. perience. It will be fun to look back on be to be told to leave our homes. We this summer and think that I was part It’s always exciting for me to look back spent hours discussing what we would of something historic. on the summer events and remember bring along and what would happen if all the different emotions. I believe that When the evacuation order came on our homes were lost. We were thrilled to fire is extremely interesting and al- July 27, I was shocked. We were on think that something exciting might ac- though dangerous, it is a fabulous show. a voluntary evacuation order (with tually happen in our same town. How- When the time came for me to return rumors of a mandatory evacuation com- ever, when the signal {3 sirens} came for to Columbia Falls High School, we were ing) for several day,s and I was looking evacuation, we were dumbfounded. asked, in English, to write a descriptive forward to something exciting happen- Of course, I called my best friend, Dani- paragraph about our summer. I am ing. We received a call at about 6:00 elle, and we had our moment of panic happy to report that mine was the most p.m. from a local friend informing us and excitement. There wasn’t much that exciting! that a mandatory evacuation order was could be said though; a single “Keep in being discussed. It was almost like a (Megan Frye is the daughter of Steve touch, OK?” was all we had to say. I surprise birthday party. Frye and Beth Blacker) was full of mixed emotions. How excit- ing was it that we were being sent away from our homes? How many teenagers

The aftermath of the Robert fire in late September is a souvenir mosaic of burn scars along the West slope of Apgar Mountain. (Rolf Larson Photo)

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 19 A View from Park Headquarters by Tony Clark I will long remember talking with visitors whose vacation plans had I didn’t know what to expect been altered by the fires; giving when I arrived at Glacier Na- them new vacation alternatives tional Park at the end of May. I’d in the park and at times trying to never worked for the Park Service re-instill the excitement of their and I’d never been in public af- vacation. fairs. This summer was going to be a whole new adventure for By mid-September the smoke that me — and what an adventure it I’ll remember the fires, not so much had shrouded the park was gone was. for the long hours, smoky air and and the air was cool and crisp. I moving from hotel to hotel during drove the length of the Sun Road Early on, my boss Amy Vanderbilt the evacuation, but for people I had that day and it was clear to see pointed up to snow on one of the the great fortune to work with each why everyone had worked so mountains and said folks say day. hard during the fires. The answer that snow is a gauge for the fire was stretched out before me ; the season. If the snow is still there I was allowed to sit in on manage- beauty and wonder that is Glacier on the Fourth of July, it will be ment sessions during the fires and to National Park. a mild fire season. If it is gone see first hand the skill and profes- before the Fourth — well, it was sionalism of the park staff, as well (Tony Clark is Public Affairs Assis- gone long before the Fourth. as the understanding and generosity tant for Glacier National Park) of people in the surrounding com- munities.

20 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail On the Trail with DAVID PAULUS:

David Paulus on the summit of Mt. Siyeh (photo by Kathy Stapleton Renno)

David Paulus, one of the most talented employeemusicians to work at Many Glacier Hotel in the Ian Tippet era, died in June, 2003. David was stricken with congestive heart failure while playing piano professionally on a Caribbean cruise ship. He was 51 years old. David worked at Many Glacier from 1970 to 1973, as a busboy and later as a waiter in the Ptarmigan Dining Room. He played piano brilliantly for nightly performances by the dining room choir, for Thursday Serenades in the lobby, and for Sun- day evening concerts. David had striking versatility as a pianist. Friends will remember him in two poses – as a polished classical artist, and as a player of informal show tunes and ragtimes, leaning back on the piano bench with one foot cocked over his knee. In either role, he played with enormous verve and energy. Ian Tippet, a connoisseur of piano music, would often pay tribute to “Mr. Paulus, with his marvelous glissandos!” Not all musicians are avid hikers. David, however, was a rugged and enthusiastic outdoorsman. He went on dozens of expedi- tions over Glacier’s trails and peaks, once covering 50 miles in a day. He characteristically wore a blue shirt, scarlet knee socks, and the heavy “waffle stomper” hiking boots which were standard equipment in the ‘70s. David practiced law in Chicago for 20 years, and then returned to his first love of playing piano professionally. He remained very close to his mother Patte and brothers Terry and Stephen (a noted classical composer) and to their families. His passing is mourned by many friends from his days in Glacier, some of whom contributed the following stories.

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 21 The Saturday Hiking Club By Joyce Daugaard (Many Glacier hike was too long or too arduous. of the SHC crammed into the back Hotel 1970-73) In the words of our dorm matron seat, the driveshaft was scraping the Blackfeet Highway. Dave and John My fondest memories of Dave Pau- Thelma Thompson, we were “hik- chivalrously volunteered to hitch lus revolve around the summer of ing fools”, also known as “bear bait”. another ride. l973. It was an idyllic summer, filled With thanks to John Hagen for his with music, hikes, and the privi- journals and Kathy Stapleton for her (2) We were attacked by swarms of lege that comes from being a park slide show, here are some highlights: mosquitoes en route to Triple Divide veteran. For the dining room staff, (1) While Dave, Becky, Kathy and Pass in the Red Eagle Valley. For Dave’s rendition of Scott Joplin’s John climbed Mt. Siyeh, Joyce wrote over an hour, our conversation con- Maple Leaf Rag would summon letters for five hours on Siyeh Pass. sisted entirely of instructions to the us to the piano to sing. If we were She was chilled a bit by the cool preceding hiker in line for swatting lucky, there was a dessert or two to breeze on the 8,080 ft. pass, and was mosquitoes: “Left thigh! Inside right scavenge behind the piano. Grass- pleased when the others finally came knee!” On the pass, we encountered hopper pie was a favorite. Dining down. There was lots of snow on the a cold rainy wind. The women room remembrances could fill a trail descending past Sexton Glacier changed from shorts into long pants volume. (it was June 30th), and we skied while attempting to maintain some modesty under wildly flapping pon- More importantly, however, Dave much of the way down. chos. was a founding member of the We caught a ride to St. Mary, and Saturday Hiking Club. It was an had a hearty dinner at Johnson’s (3) Our most spectacular hike exclusive group of five: Kathy Cafe. A generous family offered was to Boulder Pass. We took the Stapleton, Becky Oehlerking, John to give us all a ride back to Many launch International to Goat Haunt, Hagen, Dave Paulus, and me. No Glacier. However, with five members hiked six miles to Lake Frances, and dropped our packs in the camp-

The Saturday Hiking Club boarding the launch International en route to Boulder Pass (Front: David Paulus, Jim Erickson, John Hagen; Back: Lynn Wallace, Becky Oehlerking, Melinda Bourne, Joyce Daugaard, Kathy Stapleton) (photo by Kathy Stapleton Renno)

22 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail ground there. Then we trekked nine (4) The worst hike in anyone’s step on it, but the road’s not that miles up the steep trail to Brown memory was Park Creek in the great”). Kathy, in the front seat, vig- Pass and Boulder Pass, enjoying dra- southern part of the park. No one orously assured him that we weren’t matic views of Thunderbird Moun- had ever been there before, and the in a hurry. tain, Bowman Lake, and Kintla Lake Saturday Hiking Club soon found (5) We took many other glorious on a gorgeous midsummer day. We out why. It was a solemn trudge hikes. We climbed over Redgap returned to Lake Frances at early through the trees with absolutely no Pass, admired Ruggles of Redgap and evening, ate dinner, and went to views. As we neared the trailhead Old Sun Glacier, and lolled on the sleep under the stars to the lovely on Highway 2, our spirits lightened. shores of Lake Elizabeth watching murmuring of the waterfall that We were almost out! Unfortunately, the sundrenched waves roll in. We drops down into the lake. the bridge across the river was out slept on the luxurious fine-pebbled and there was an arrow to hike six Next morning, the first thing that beach at Cosley Lake en route to more miles. Joyce burst into tears, we saw upon awakening was a huge Stoney Indian Pass and the Waterton but was quickly reassured by Dave bag of food suspended from the low Valley. that “it’s not that far”. boughs of a tree about six feet in the It was an ideal group of hiking com- air and no more than ten feet away. After hiking 30-some miles, we panions and an ideal summer. The novices camping in the next tent endured a frightening hitchhike had grasped the principle that they back to Many Glacier, crammed were supposed to hang their food in into a little hatchback with a perfect a tree, but otherwise clearly didn’t maniac at the wheel. He careened know a grizzly bear from a koala. around the mountainous curves on We were aghast, and scolded them Highway 2 at 80 mph, apologizing for having jeopardized us all. to us for going too SLOWLY (“I’d

The Saturday Hiking Club bedded down for the night at Lake Frances (Lynne Wallace, Joyce Daugaard, Melinda Bourne, David Paulus, Kathy Stapleton, John Hagen) (photo by Kathy Stapleton Renno)

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 23 A MACHETE ON THE HIGHLINE By Hank Overturf (Many Glacier we should take knives just in case we the trip and had an adventure that still 1970-72) needed them. When we left the next brings back a smile to my face. I know morning I strapped on my Buck knife my life has been much richer for having I was deeply saddened to hear of and met Dave in the hall of the upper met Dave and had a chance to enjoy his Dave Paulus’ death this last summer. dorm. sense of humor and listen to his won- It is ironic that I was hiking Stoney derful artistry on the piano. I’ll miss Indian Pass this summer and thought We ran up the valley and nearly ran up you, Dave. of Dave and his tremendous skill and to Granite Park. As we gingerly crossed musicianship. When I camped for the the snowfields of the closed Highline night I pulled out a bottle of wine and trail we stopped for a picture. It was a CD player and listened to Chopin then that I noticed that Dave didn’t while I pitched my tent and boiled have a knife, but a machete. My Buck water for my dinner of freeze dried. knife seemed rather small in compari- son, but Dave insisted that we brandish I recall one trip in June of 1970 when our weapons and look macho. “Men of Dave, another friend and I decided to the wilderness!” do the Highline before it was open. We were assembling our gear the night We laughed, slid across and down snow- before when Dave suggested that fields, and joked all the way across the Garden Wall. We obviously survived

24 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail The Summer of ‘42 Happy Days at Lake McDonald Lodge on the Brink of the Second World War

Mr. Green, transport agent at Lake Mc- Donald Lodge. (Oscar Jorstad photo)

By Oscar Jorstad (Lake McDonald Lodge, 1942) In the summer of 1941 I stopped at Lake McDonald Lodge. There were two familiar faces dressed in white standing in front of the hotel. Would you be- lieve two classmates from St. Olaf College? After a few minutes of visiting, I knew in my heart – next year, this place is for me! The following summer I was night clerk at Lake McDonald. Mrs. Barley was the manager of the hotel. Cy Mavickas was the fellow in charge of the business end. Faith Dugan was the greeter at the dining room. Shirley Smith was the early morning lobby maid.

My hours were 10pm to 7am. Those to visit four stations inside the lodge were perfect hours for hiking in the (two on the top floor and two on daytime (the matter of sleep came the bottom level, at each end of second). My first hike, of course, the building). Often after hiking, I was to Sperry Chalet. It was June would be sound asleep at the fire- 15, and I had to wade through waist- Dave and Ray, two McDon- place, and my friend the watchman deep snow to get to the porch. ald porters, refueling. did my stations for me. (Oscar Jorstad photo) The night watchman at Lake Mc- One night a message came that a Donald made rounds around the car had gone off Going-to-the-Sun compound, punching his timeclock Road. I awakened Cy Mavickas who at various stations. This was re- had a bedroom next to the night quired by the insurance company. clerk’s office. He gave me the keys to To make sure that I stayed awake, his car, and took my place as I drove the routine required that the watch- off to be of help. Fortunately, it was man give his clock to me each hour

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 25 not too serious, and I was happy to gram from my dad to come home find that a ranger had taken charge. because Uncle Sam was calling. I was at McDonald throughout the My two children, Janet Jorstad summer of 1942. In 1943, the Park Edwards and David Jorstad, both itself was closed for obvious reasons. worked at Many Glacier during the My number would soon be up, 1970s. I have made eleven trips to but I wanted to go back. The Park the Park from 1941 to the present. Service was active at maintaining I am planning to go back again and trails and fighting fire. I applied for make it an even dozen! Park Service work, and was hired to be the lookout at Mt. Brown. But after just two weeks, I received a tele-

A fellow Norwegian! Emil Korstad, the garden- er (Oscar Jorstad photo) Mrs. Barley, manager of Lake McDonald Lodge (Oscar Jorstad photo)

Looking northward from the girls’ dormitory: The chief engineer’s home, the camp store, and the post office, with Mt. Brown in the background (Oscar Jorstad photo) Mrs. Barley and the dining room staff (Oscar Jorstad photo)

26 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail know what to do but I knew I did not Backing out of an Avalanche: want to stay where I was. There was only one way I could go and I was not Just Between Me and No. 95 about to abandon No. 95. I slipped into By Tom I. McFarling (Jammer 1950) to St. Mary. I thought about that, but reverse, said a prayer that by moving decided that I had set out to deadhead GPT Co. had rules. One was that no back I would not dislodge or disturb over to McDonald and that’s just exactly new Jammer could carry passengers over the snow again, and eased back about what I was going to do. With that, I got Logan Pass until he had first dead-head- 5 feet. I was afraid to back any further into No. 95 and headed out of the park- ed over empty. I was at Many Glacier without knowing exactly where the back ing lot going west. when I was told to deadhead over to wheels were so I opened my door and McDonald. It was a beautiful morning Clouds and fog were so thick you could looked back and down to the side of the — sunshine, not too hot, shirt sleeve hardly see anything at all. After a short road. The haze and returning fog and weather. I put the top down on No. 95 distance the clouds and fog seemed to clouds were so dense I couldn’t even see before I left. thin a bit and you could almost see into the back of the bus. All I could do was the valley offto the left. Quite a sight! I to look straight down to the side of the At St. Marys I turned into the park and stopped, reached for my camera, took road at those two layers of rock stacked went right through the entrance station a picture and rolled the window back there as a guard rail. gate without stopping. I was enjoying up.Then I heard it. the trip up, especially because there was I thought I could judge where I was absolutely no traffic either way. About It sounded like a freight train right in on the road by whether those rocks where the Motor Inn is now, it started the front seat beside me. I feared what moved away from me or closer to me to rain. I got out to put up the top and it was, held my foot on the brake and as I backed. I tried it and, soon found got a jacket out of the back. Before waited. All of a sudden, there was the that by backing 8 to 10 feet at a time long, the rain turned into snow. Still no flying, tumbling, sliding snowmass right I could judge pretty well if the rear traffic either way! We had Going-to-the in front. I honestly thought the force of wheels were in about the middle of the –Sun road all to ourselves! the slide would cover us up or push us road. Strangely, I did not really have over the side. I do not know how long any fear for myself. My whole thought By the time I got to the Logan Pass it took but finally the snow stopped was “How can I keep No. 95 safe from parking lot on top, it was a real snow sliding down and across. Then silence I being knocked over the side by a new storm. I couldn’t see much, but then -- nothing but the rumble and echo slide.” Only by trial and error, luck and there wasn’t much to see - just snow ev- from down below. erywhere. According to GPT Co. rule, Continued from page 27. I was letting No. 95 have its cool-down The snow covered the road idle run when the Ranger came out of ahead and over the front his building to inquire what the hell bumper, the radiator and the I thought I was doing. I replied I was hood back to just where No. deadheading over to McDonald Hotel 95’s windshield was. I didn’t He said the road had been closed since daylight and he was getting ready to go down himself; but now he was going to try to reach the entrance by radio to make sure they let no one else come up. It seems that late snows had been extra heavy and there was still a very deep snow pack. It had been snowing all night and morning. With fresh snow Tom I. McFarling, on top of the old, there was an extreme driver of No. 95, also danger of new snow sliding and even of former school teacher avalanche. and former judge. When he came back, he said the (Photo courtesy of entrance gate had reported they had author) not let anyone through all morning! I guess they had not even seen me come through. He suggested I turn around and he would follow me back down The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 27 A Wrangler’s Memories of Glacier by Robert Wellman started ranching on the Two Medicine The first day of the North Circle Trip, River near Browning. He would call me my guests would assemble at our corrals E.G. Wellman, Dalton Wellman, and I occasionally from Cut Bank to bail him at Many Glacier. I would saddle all bought and took over the Park Saddle out of jail. One time he said he was in the pack and riding horses and manty Horse Concession when the Park re- for crossing the street against a red light. up all their personal packs, groceries, opened after World War II. Noffsingers I replied, “They can’t do that.” He said, tent, dishes, pots and pans, and other had been the previous operators. “Well, I was on my hands and knees.” necessities. Then I’d load the packs Getting paid to take people packing and on the horses, get my guests mounted, He stayed in the bunkhouse at the fishing was like a paid holiday. There and hit the trail. We would go up past ranch and was good help. My boys, were long hours and hard work. I really Ptarmigan Lake and through Ptarmigan about eight and ten years old, knew enjoyed most of the people I met, and Tunnel, coming out on a narrow trail. Blackie had a drinking problem. They hard work is needed if you are to be That trail passed over the sheer 1,000 would go in the bunkhouse, tie his successful at anything. I spent time at foot drop to Lake Elizabeth. shoelaces together, then holler at him to all of our locations in the Park, at times watch him wreck when he jumped up. We would continue down the trail, taking day rides to Sperry Chalet and overnight trips to Granite Park Chalet. It was a pleasure to work with our many I always looked forward to meeting the new people and employees. One of my favorites was Vir- sharing the deer, elk, moose, goats, marmots, ground gil (Blackie) Dillon, who we employed squirrels, and all the other wildlife, flora, fauna, and at Many Glacier. He was very humor- ous with a quick wit, and drew a crowd scenery of Glacier National Park. wherever he was. I remember one trip when there was a He loved my children and probably just steadily losing altitude, and set up camp large party, so two of us, Blackie and laughed. When I heard what they were by Lake Elizabeth. Here we could catch myself, took them. We had just gone doing, I told them that was no way to Arctic Grayling, then cook them over through the Ptarmigan Tunnel to come treat a friend, and they stopped. a campfire with potatoes, carrots, and onions. The guests seemed to really like out on a narrow trail looking straight We assisted him in finding a job at this, and for the first couple days we down about 1,000 feet to a shimmering Knott’s Berry Farm in California where would have fresh fruit: pears, peaches, mirror named Lake Elizabeth, reflecting he worked in the wintertime and was apples, and bananas. the land of the big sky. A lady, spooked doing well. The next thing I knew, he by the view, shouted, “Guide, guide, do was gone. I read in the paper that he I would set up our tent every night be- people fall from here often?” After a had come up in the winter, had fallen cause weather can change quickly in the long pause, Blackie replied, “No ma’am. down drunk outside a bar, and had fro- mountains. I would help everyone blow Just once.” zen to death. It was a very sad day for up their air mattresses, and show them Blackie spent his winters in Cut Bank, me, my family, and his many friends. I how to get the rocks and sticks out of and I lived in East Glacier, until I still miss him today. the area where they would make their bed. It was nice to sleep under the stars, 28 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail but we could retreat to the tent if it got fishing on Kootenai Lake where there Lake, get off at Goat Haunt, saddle and too tough outside. was a large bull moose grazing. Moose load up, then go on to Fifty Mountain put their heads under water and eat Camp. The name Fifty Mountain came I would hang all our groceries up in a moss and things on the bottom of the from the unique setting. You could see tree and then sleep under them to keep lake, then lift their heads up to get air, fifty peaks from that campsite. bears from getting our supplies. In the chew, and back under again to graze. morning, I would get up about 4:30, Cooking breakfast in the morning, the gather more for the fire, put on These people asked if I could get close guests would see me pick up the frying water to boil for coffee, and get things to the moose so they could get a better pan and flip the hotcakes in the air to ready for breakfast. I would call the picture. I asked them how close they turn them over. The next thing, they guests, tell them coffee was on, and would like to get. They replied, “As all wanted to try it, and there would start breakfast. I would generally make close as you can.” be hotcakes hanging from the trees. hotcakes, bacon, and eggs. The Jays (camp robbers) sure I started moving closer, and as soon as enjoyed the treat. Everyone had a good While the guests were eating, I would the moose put his head down, I rowed time. haul water from the creek and put it on as fast as I could and was within ten feet the fire for dishes. I’d gather all personal of the big bull when he lifted his head The ninth day we proceeded to Granite possessions, get them ready to manty out of the lake. With water running off Park Chalet, which is in a high moun- and pack on the horses, and then gather the shovels of his horns, he looked awe- tain setting and is a gorgeous place. my hobbled horses. I always put a bell some and fierce. They shouted, “Get The last day, we would saddle up and on one, so I could find them easily. us out of here!” I had already started go down Swiftcurrent Pass and back to rowing away as I knew I was closer then Many Glacier. Saddling the packhorses and getting it was safe to be. After all that, they them ready to go was next. While the At Many Glacier, my new friends didn’t even get their picture, as they had dudes were finishing their coffee, I would be ready to go on with their dropped their camera. would wash dishes, pack the groceries, travels. Generally there would be a new etc., put the packs on the horses, get The next day, we got on the Internation- group ready to go out. I always looked my guests mounted up, and start down al which ferried us across Waterton Lake forward to meeting the new people the trail to the next campsite. This was to the Prince of Wales Hotel. Here we and sharing the deer, elk, moose, goats, the routine from camp to camp on the got to sleep in a regular bed and take a marmots, ground squirrels, and all the ten-day trip. bath that wasn’t in a cold lake. We also other wildlife, flora, fauna, and scenery enjoyed the cuisine, especially me, as I of Glacier National Park. The second day we would camp on didn’t have to cook it or wash the dishes. Belly River, in a beautiful level valley with lush grass. The next day we would In the morning, we would get back go to Crossley [now Cosley] Lake and on the International, cross Waterton catch trout surrounded by gorgeous scenery. The fourth day, we would move on to Glenn’s Lake, a great spot with good fish, which the guests would enjoy catching and cooking over the campfire. Stoney Indian Pass was a high place where you could see a long ways, and people were impressed with the view in every direction. We would then drop down to the Waterton Valley and Kootenai Lakes. I always packed a small rubber raft with me, which we used for fishing and swimming. We caught brook trout in Kooteanai Lakes, which are smaller than most trout, but are considered the tastiest. One time, I had two guests with me Photo credits for both pictures

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 29 ?

30 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail 50th Wedding Anniversary in Glacier By Joe N. Piggott (Gearjammer 1948) In 1948, St. Mary Junction had only a popular. Hiking, fishing and canoeing café, with rest rooms, good coffee, deli- at Cameron Lake was high point, while To celebrate our 50th wedding anni- cious huckleberry pie, and two stingy an anniversary dinner at the Prince of versary, my wife and I spent a week in slot machines. Now St. Mary Resort Wales dining room was a memorable Glacier National Park last August. Our and Cabins with restaurant, gift shop, finale for our visit. three children, their spouses, and four grocery and gas station occupy the in- grandsons accompanied us on the trip. Prices tersection. Nearby the Park Café enjoys In 1948, I drove red jammer bus # 105, a well-deserved reputation for good food A 1948 brochure that I have kept and have extolled the beauty of the park and quick service. revealed the greatest changes in Glacier. to my family. Here are some impres- Hotel rooms were $7.50 a day single oc- sions from our trip. Many Glacier Hotel cupancy; breakfast $1.00; lunch $1.25; The Forest Fires After three days’ evacuation because and dinner $1.75. In our present of the fires, Many Glacier Hotel was economy, rates are considerably differ- On July 23rd, five forest fires were burn- reopened. We were able to visit the ent, but the same beauty and hospitality ing on 50,000 acres west of the conti- beautiful Swiftcurrent area and see can be enjoyed. nental divide, threatening West Glacier, the shrinking Grinnell Glacier. Many Apgar, and Lake McDonald Hotel. The Buses Glacier Hotel was undergoing a consid- Sixteen hundred fire fighters with erable exterior restoration. Later inside I had chartered my 1948 bus, no. 105, helicopters, air tankers, and bulldozers all of the carpet will be replaced and the with an excellent driver who took us were trying to control the fires. The walls redecorated. from St. Mary’s Junction to Logan Pass Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railroad and return. The Going-to-the-Sun sent a fire team with 68,000 gallons of Waterton Highway seemed reasonably well main- water in five tank cars. The fire fighters Waterton village has grown into an tained, but the visitor’s center at the Pass were successful in setting and control- interesting destination with good cafes, is beautiful. The splendor of St. Mary ling backfires to reduce the combustible lodging and shops. The Prince of Wales Lake and the surrounding mountains condition. Hotel remains in its breathtaking, remains untouched. St. Mary Junction majestic setting, unaffected by the last “My old bus” appears the better for 55 55 years. The launch trip on Water- ton Lake down to Goat Haunt is still Continued on next page.

Joe Pigott (red hat) standing next to his wife and family at St. Mary Junction af- ter the their ride to Logan Pass. (Photo courtesy of the family)

The Inside Trail ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ 31 Backing out of an Avalanche continued from page 27. Divine guidance did I manage to get a snowplow on the way up to open the pulled into McDonald Hotel it was late No. 95 up that west side of Going To road. He suggested I should leave No. in the afternoon and there were people The Sun in reverse! 95 there and come back up with him hanging around to see No 9S pull in until the road was opened as there was with that squeaky horn going full blast. I don’t know how many hairpin turns to no place to turn around where I was. I had done what I had been told to do. the right or to the left there were before Then, after the road was opened we I saw some growth on the outside of I never told a soul how far I backed No could get some more help to guide me the guard rail rocks! I have now, and I 95 up that road. Only it’s Jammer and back to where I could turn around. I had then, absolutely no concept of how that Ranger, whoever he was, know said No thanks, I will stay right here much time it took. I was concentrating for sure. I don’t know if he ever told with No 95. If you need us you know only on what I was trying to do. Even anyone. I hope not as I always wanted where we’ll be. He left muttering to though the snow on the hood and wind- to keep that as our secret -- just between himself shield was not melting, I was ringing wet with sweat and totally out of breath I wrapped one of the blankets around when I heard the horn of the Ranger’s my shoulders as I was getting pretty 50th Anniversary, Pickup truck behind me. I heard him cold. Soon I heard a sound from down call to inquire if I was OK. He walked the road. I figured it was the snowplow up and asked if I knew there had been working from the other side. I waited years. Ford Motor Company com- this big snow slide. I told him I knew it a bit, cleaned the snow off of the hood pletely restored it by placing underneath as I had been in it. He didn’t believe me and windshield so I could see and a new Ford truck powered by liquid and walked down the road to see where started down again. You can’t guess petroleum gas with power steering, it was and what damage, if any it had how slow I went and how I listened for power brakes, automatic transmission done to the road. He was gone a pretty another freight train. When I could see and bucket seats for the driver and his good while amd fmally came back. He the deep snow on the road I waited for front-seat passenger. The outward ap- said he could see where the front of the the plow to break through. The driver pearance and convertible top appear the bus had left its mark in the side of the made several passes through the snow same. No other vehicle inspires such snow bank and asked how I got from bank, wide enough for me to get No. 95 confidence in its comfort and safety. down there to where I was. I told him through. In a few minutes I was on my Glacier Park measured up to the glow- I had backed up the road. He said he way down again. After all, GPTCo. had ing promises I had made and will attract would never have believed it if he had its rules. a return by our children and grandsons not seen where I had been. in the future. When I got down to flat ground I He said he needed to go back to report started to breath a bit easier. When I what had happened. and that there was JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www. glacierparkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415.

An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulating to a Lifetime membership in five installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100.

The Glacier Park Foundation is a § 501(c)(3) nonprofit corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent permitted by law.

32 ◆ Fall 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail