TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE

Big Bend Weekend wranglers Watch Ranch SP carry on Big Bend’s pullout map ranching tradition the birdie Page 10 elPages S 6 — 7 OLitarIoPage 3 TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT | SUMMER 2 0 0 8 | BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK

Welcome to Big Bend Ranch SP My name is Rodrigo Navarette Trevizo. It is an honor beyond measure to be asked to lead the largest state park in Texas. Although I have hiked and camped in many of our beautiful state parks and state natural areas, the Big Bend is where my heart and soul belong. This is a country of beauty and isolation, rugged canyons, hidden springs and incredible vistas. Its people are strong and hardworking and its culture unique. Within the park’s fascinating history, one that spans almost 400 years, you will find the story of not only the Trans­Pecos Aerial view of Solitario looking north­northeast. The lower outer rim’s upside­down V’s are the famous “Flatirons.” but of the entire state of Texas. In fact, the park has been a cross­ roads of human activities for over 11,000 years! A sense of place I work with a group of dedicated employees charged with imple­ menting our public use plan. This El Solitario: before airplanes or aerial rocks. Subsequent volcanic ambitious plan will make the park’s What’s In a Name? images were available. It is one activity further removed remote campsites and extensive of Earth’s more distinctive overlying rock, collapsed some trail system available to the people features as observed from of the lava chamber and of Texas and visitors from around space. The name is Spanish for formed a small caldera in the the world. We are working to by David Riskind central southeast Solitario. expand our partnerships and hermit or loner. El Solitario is the signature Early geologic studies outreach programs, to bring the landscape feature of Big Bend About 36 million years ago park’s cultural and natural erroneously suggested that molten rock called magma histories to an ever­expanding Ranch State Park. Almost the Solitario was either a audience, and to secure its place of 10 miles across and nearly from deep in the Earth large volcano or a meteor importance in our natural world. symmetrical, this collapsed and pushed upward and displaced impact crater. Please take a moment to peruse eroded structural dome thousands of feet of overlying The Solitario, as we see it this issue of El Solitario and straddles the Brewster­ rock. This activity created a familiarize yourself with all the today, emerged about 2 million Presidio County line in the blister or dome­shaped bulge park has to offer. I truly believe years ago when the ancient Rio eastern portion of the park. on the Earth’s surface. Over that you will be as excited as I am Grande began cutting its now about the future of Big Bend Early explorers of the region millions of years, erosion Ranch State Park. noted its distinctive shape even collapsed the dome’s older Continued on page 10

Featured Trails...... 2 Access and Visitor Services ...... 8 Table of Be Aware ...... 3 What To Do While You’re Here ...... 9 Featured Campsites ...... 4 Featured Activity...... 10 contents Fees and Visitor Services ...... 5 Archeology, History and Culture ...... 11 Big Bend Ranch Map ...... 6 “The River Road Runs Through It”...... 12

El Solitario is published twice per year by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for the orientation and education of visitors to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Featured Trails: Encino Hiking Closed Canyon Trail and Biking Trail

A group of middle and high school students meander through low hills, ocotillo forests and along ancient streambeds on the Encino Loop Trail.

The Encino Loop Trail, located shaped the region. At 3.0 to 3.5 in the interior of Big Bend miles you will pass acres of Ranch State Park, follows an ocotillo, a hardy plant also old jeep trail nearly nine miles known as desert candle. through a remote portion of Papalote Encino (Encino the Encino Pasture. This wide, Windmill), the largest windmill easy­to­follow trail offers oppor­ at Big Bend Ranch, comes into tunities for hiking and mountain Hikers on the Closed Canyon Trail walk through a slice of geologic history. biking, birding and photography. view at the four­mile mark. The Closed Canyon Trail Canyon Arroyo became a direct An easy hike and a moderately Relics from decades of ranching constitutes perhaps the most tributary of the Rio Grande. strenuous mountain biking activities litter the ground, par­ popular hike along the River Road experience, the trail offers great ticularly those associated with Today, the Closed Canyon Trail corridor at Big Bend Ranch. The views of ancient lava domes, man’s attempt to harness water presents a meandering hike into a trailhead is located approximately rugged mesas and colorful in the desert. narrow, deep, high­walled canyon 29 miles east of Presidio and 36 desert vegetation. worn smooth by the ongoing Between 4.2 and 5.0 miles the miles west of Study Butte on FM­ effects of moving water and During the spring and early trail veers to the right and 170 (The River Road) between La summer, look for the desert sediment. As you walk through follows the main ranch road. Cuesta (The Big Hill) and the wildflowers that decorate the the canyon and contemplate its Watch for vehicles. At 5.1 miles, Colorado Canyon River Access. harsh landscape. Be alert for geologic past, also look for one of enjoy an excellent view of La This relatively easy three­ mile javelinas rooting through the round­trip trail enters a slot the Big Bend’s most colorful Posta Mountain with Fresno lechuguilla as you listen to canyon that portrays the incredible lizards. The greater southwestern Peak set as a lofty backdrop. At the songs of Black­tailed sculpting power of water and earless lizard can be seen along 5.3 miles, the Encino trail leaves Gnatcatcher, Verdin and Black­ erosion. Deep inside the canyon, the canyon walls performing the road once again and throated Sparrow. Pay close hikers can stretch out their arms “push­ups” to expose its blue­ continues to the right. Ahead attention to the animal tracks and touch both canyon walls purple belly to potential mates. lies a commanding view of the that appear in sandy arroyo simultaneously while looking up at During the mating season, males Llano, a slightly depressed plain bottoms and you just might see the canyon rim 150 feet above. sport a vivid orange throat patch that recharges the underground a coyote ambling away. Imagine the force required to slice and a lime green wash along the water supply during the rainy The trail loop begins 1.5 miles through solid rock in this way! flanks. Closed Canyon is also a season. Travel along this route east of the Sauceda Visitor favorite habitat for the canyon is fairly easy — mostly level with Closed Canyon Arroyo cuts Center at the junction of wren. Listen for its melodic song, through the reddish volcanic rock Camino a la Sauceda and La a slight downhill dip. a descending cascade of notes, of Colorado Mesa. This mesa is Mota Road, just past the cattle echoing throughout the canyon. Between 6.1 and 7.5 miles the composed of ash flow tuffs that guard. The first mile of the trail continues through a series erupted from volcanoes in the During summer it is best to avoid trail follows La Mota Road, so of arroyos and gullies. In one of Sierra Rica of neighboring hiking Closed Canyon during watch carefully for vehicles. the bigger arroyos, watch for a Chihuahua, Mexico, about 30 – 28 mid­day when the sun is directly Views include the shallow hills million years ago. Around large cluster of quartz crystals overhead. Morning or afternoon of Leyva Canyon to the west, 2 million years ago, both Colorado that resembles a mound of ice is better because the canyon floor La Mota Mountain to the Mesa and the Santana Bolson cubes. At 6.8 miles the country is shaded by its high walls. Be north, Fresno Peak to the east begins to open back up, and at (the valley that the River Road sure to carry plenty of water, and and several volcanic domes to 7.5 miles the trail changes follows) had become completely wear a large brimmed hat. the south. At 1.01 miles the direction to the northeast. Be covered with sedimentary basin­ trail leaves the road and veers Beware of afternoon thunder­ filling rocks. As the Closed to the northeast. careful in these areas; many storms; flash flooding can be a Canyon Arroyo began to cut arroyos are covered with loose serious problem in the canyon. At two miles the trail enters through these softer, looser rocks sand and gravel. hilly terrain where canyons and establish its course, intense To learn more about the geology dissect the landscape. Look for At 8.8 miles the route intersects erosion occurred quickly enough of the region, pick up a copy severely distorted and twisted with La Mota Road. Turn to the to completely breach the harder, of Geology of Big Bend Ranch State rock outcrops — evidence of the left and return to the beginning underlying volcanic rock of Park by Christopher Henry, at geologic forces that have long of the trailhead. Colorado Mesa. Thus, Closed any of our visitor centers.

2 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department Mountain lion

Be Aware: Head ‘em up, move ‘em out! You’re in wildlife country Weekend wranglers have a chance each spring and fall to see cattle in the ranch’s rugged Many wonderful Never feed wild animals or and remote pastures, learn allow them to get human or how the herd is moved with pet food. animals live here horses, and drive the park’s Observe wild animals and historic Texas Longhorn Herd longhorn cattle from a safe and play a vital role to stock pens at Sauceda distance; never approach or in the balance of try to photograph them at Headquarters. Participants can close range. take part in branding and nature. You are a Keep children and pets under vaccinating calves, recording your control at all times. lineages and experiencing the guest in their home. Clean up and store food and traditions of the Spanish, garbage immediately after meals; Mexican and Anglo­American never keep food in your tent. By learning about cowboy culture. Enjoy the outdoors with The cattle drive is Big Bend the park’s animals others, not alone. Ranch State Park’s most In the unlikely event that you Western Diamondback rattlesnake and observing the encounter a black bear or popular program, allowing up to mountain lion, do not run. 25 visitors to experience a part In the unlikely event that a following tips, you Instead, face the animal, make of the state’s Western heritage. bite occurs: noise and try to look as large The three­day event allows par­ can show them the as possible. Pick up small • Remove jewelry and loosen ticipants to learn about the children. Back away slowly. If tight­fitting clothing. attacked, fight back. Report park’s ranching tradition, respect they • Wash the bite area with sightings to park staff experience life as a cowboy and disinfectant. immediately. gain a lifetime of memories. deserve while • Keep the person calm Rattlesnakes are especially and quiet. common at Big Bend Ranch. keeping yourself Watch where you put your • Limit movement if at For information call the Big hands and feet. Never harass all possible. Bend Ranch State Park, and your family safe. or attempt to handle a • Watch for symptoms rattlesnake—this is when most Sauceda Ranger Station of shock. bites occur. Rattlesnakes are at (432) 358­4444. protected in the park; do them • Seek medical attention no harm. immediately.

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 3 Featured Campsites: Fresno Vista Campsite Volcanic boulders stand sentinel What’s special Getting There as they guard the approach to about this site? At the Sauceda Ranger Station Fresno Vista campsite. Here, at • Uninterrupted views of the turn right and travel east on the edge of ancient lava flows surrounding mountains Camino a la Sauceda, the 2WD from the Bofecillos volcanoes, all­access road. Turn right one can glimpse millions of • So peaceful that you onto Fresno Vista Road. Pass years of geologic history and can hear the breeze the warning sign and travel contemplate thousands of pass through along the ridgeline. Upon years of human occupation • Lots of room to spread out reaching a water trough, turn in upper Fresno Canyon. Fresno Vista campsite is right and follow the road to After driving through gently protected from south winds the parking area. rolling grass­covered hills to but is exposed to the north. arrive at the campsite, visitors Desert grasses, lechuguilla, will find a picnic table and fire cholla, hedgehog cacti and an ring situated in a small valley. occasional juniper are common plants. On clear nights, GPS Coordinates (NAD83) A few yards to the north lies a stargazing is spectacular. level ridgeline that has been UTM13 Easting 611335.2756 UTM Northing 3263866.2950 designated for tent camping. Numerous tumbled boulders Longitude DD ­103.85140183 invite exploration and play. The From Sauceda Ranger Station Latitude DD 29.49939832 Sauceda Ranger Station to Fresno Vista Road 7.8 miles site can also accommodate 9 40 Longitude DMS ­103 51 5.0466 Fresno Vista Road to water trough 0.9 miles those with mobility issues. miles minutes Latitude DMS 29 29 57.8339 Water trough to campsite 0.3 miles

Access: 2WD High Clearance

Backcountry Tascate 1 Campsite Zone Camping For decades, vaqueros and Getting There cowboys maintained the water Turn left at the Sauceda tank and windmills of Tascate. Ranger Station and travel to Today the Tascate 1 campsite the Madrid Falls Road. Turn offers visitors a taste of the left onto Madrid Falls Road past. Sit at the picnic table and and follow the road south. Pass survey the rugged hillsides through the closed gate and covered with yucca and sotol as travel through the Llano Flats you ponder the site’s ranching What’s special among scores of yucca, purple heritage and the natural beauty about this site? and green prickly pear cactus that lies all around. and stands of ocotillo. There are no designated • Solitude campsites in the backcountry The picnic table and fire ring Pass the intersections of zone. Backcountry camping • Elegant rock formations Llano Loop and Papalote at this campsite are located allows overnight visitors to and views Llano. Take in breathtaking approximately 50 yards from select their own primitive views of Fresno Peak and the the parking area. Nearby the • A sense of protection for campsite, based upon Chisos Mountains. Turn right rock walls struggle to keep your family and friends certain conditions: at the intersection of Madrid back the mariola and creoste Falls and Tascate Road. • At least 1/4 mile from any bush that is attempting to take GPS Coordinates (NAD83) Engage four­wheel drive and other existing campsite back the land. A large tent pad UTM13 Easting 599591.0871 negotiate through water­eroded • At least 300 feet from water is located northwest of the fire UTM Northing 3256303.3155 channels traveling south­ ring, and a smaller tent pad is sources and prehistoric or westerly. Enter the open gate located northeast of the Longitude DD ­103.97323223 historic cultural sites and follow the road through a Latitude DD 29.43214196 windmill directly behind the small oval depression into the • At least 3/4 mile from parking area. Longitude DMS ­103 58 23.6360 canyons below Tascate Peak. trailheads or roads Latitude DMS 29 25 55.7111 Cross the arroyo and enter Backcountry campers may use Access: 4WD High Clearance the heavily vegetated canyon the “cathole” method to dispose bottom. Pass the remains of the of human waste and must pack historic wooden windmill and out all trash. No open fires are From Sauceda Ranger Station pull into the parking area near 4.6 40 allowed due to resource impact; Sauceda Ranger Station to Tascate Road 3.1 miles the water trough. miles minutes use of containerized fuel stoves Tascate Road to Campsite 1.5 miles is permitted. The maximum stay is 14 nights (total) and seven consecutive days in any one backcountry zone. 4 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department Big Bend Ranch State Park Important: Fees and visitor services Orientation Front Country Zone Day Use Only Daily entry fee: Appropriate orientation $3 per person per materials will be day for all 13 years provided, depending on and older the visitor’s intended activities and areas of interest at the park. Standard Vehicle Campsite: $8 per site/day Primitive Road or Backcountry Zone Day or Overnight Use Backcountry The viewing or reviewing Zone Camping: of comprehensive $5 per night/site orientation materials and information is required. This material will Horses: $2 per day/horse introduce the park, the Chihuahuan Desert, safety, water use, vehicle requirements, land ethics, Lodging etc. Orientation is Lodging is available bunkhouse Park Information and Permits required annually. style or in the “Big House” at Park information and permits for day use and camping may be obtained in Sauceda. Meals are available person from 8:00 a.m. — 4:30 p.m. daily at three locations: with advance reservations. Call No gas, diesel (432) 358­4444 between 8:00 Sauceda Ranger Station Barton Warnock Environmental a.m. and 5:00 p.m. for information Park interior Education Center or groceries and reservations. (432) 358­4444 Lajitas (432) 424­3327 available in park. Fort Leaton State Airstrip Historic Site Cell phone service in Presidio Big Bend Ranch (432) 229­3613 the park is very paved airstrip 3TE3 Special­use permits are required for use of Primitive Road and all camping. limited and unreliable. 103­56­11.7030 W Day Use visitors are required to obtain a free, special­use permit for Don’t count on it! 28­28­10.6840 N motorized use of primitive roads. Elevation: 4240 feet Campsite and backcountry reservations may be made in advance by calling Length: 5500 feet (432) 358­4444 between 8:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. Permits must be picked Emergency dial 911 up in person.

Towing Use Zones Alpine (432) 837­1150 Front Country Zone is defined as those lands within approximately one­ Presidio (432) 229­3312 quarter mile either side of the designated 2WD roads. All street­legal and licensed vehicles are permitted in this zone. Overnight use may occur only at designated campsites, with the required, special­use permit. Primitive Road Zone is defined as lands within one­quarter mile either side of designated 4WD or 2WD high­clearance roads. Motorized vehicle access to this zone is restricted to street­legal and licensed vehicles that must have at least four functional wheels. Overnight use may occur only at designated campsites, with the required, special­use permit. Backcountry Zones are defined as lands that are more than one­quarter mile from publicly accessible roads. Twenty separate zones have been defined. Only non­motorized travel is permitted. Visitors are encouraged, though not required, to use designated trails and routes until they are knowledgeable and confident enough in their familiarity with the park to travel cross­country.

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 5 County Graded Highway 4-Wheel Drive 4-Wheel Drive 4-Wheel - Unmaintained 2WD High Clearance High 2WD Trails Trails

a s The Dike Dike The n g e d i n e M P s s e c c A Trailheads Residence Ranger Backcountry Campground Access River Equestrian Staging Campsite Campsite Staging Equestrian Campsite Campsite Group i c

4054 4054 l Red Hill Red

Legend b a P u

r a e s e d M

n

a

B l

a

t 4740

o 65 Cerro Boludo Cerro 9 4

c San Jacinto Mountain Jacinto San

s

a 4080 4080 La Viuda La T

ranch

Casa Piedra Bend

Park B l a c k H i l l s i l l s k c H l a B

Big State C i e n e g a iC e n e g a o u n t M a i n s 169

Cienega Camp C r e a e k g e n e

C i

k k

e e

e e

r r

C C

o o

t t i i B l a c k M e

Tres Cuevas Mountain Tres

p p

tu

u

h 3013 S Masada Ridge

Wilderness Unit

d (BBR State Park) n

Amarilla Mountain Amarilla a

H

t t

f Barton Warnock Enviro Ed Center

e Lajitas L Tres Tres Papalotes Tres Papalotes Trailhead Trailhead Papalotes Tres 4819 4819

Barton Warnock Trailhead Trailhead Warnock Barton

p p

Paso al Solitario tu

Eagle Mountain Eagle u h

S

r r L e o o w 3214 LosAlamos Los Alamos Residence Los Contrabando Mountain Contrabando 4608 4608 Needle Peak Needle Burnt Camp Trailhead Trailhead Camp Burnt

T h e S o l i t a r i o

Jackson Pens p Portal del Norte

Contrabando u

t

u h g S

3139 3139

d d n 4786 4786

Fresno Peak Peak Fresno n Fresno Vista a Rincon 2

H o

Solitario Peak Solitario t

Wax Laccolith Factory Wax

h

g Pila Montoya 3 i y Rincon 1

Pila Montoya 2 R Fresno Peak Pila Montoya 1 n a r o C

F r e s n o e

s s

m

o i i

r r

n n Chorro Vista

Mexicano Falls Trailhead Trailhead Falls Mexicano P

a a Grassy Banks c c Rincon Mountain Rincon

i Trailhead Canyon Fresno Falls Falls La Posta 4630 4630 x Madrid

o

e Falls La Posta Mountain La

M y Los Pila Montoya Trailhead Montoya Pila Mexicano

o s s Pila de los Muchachos Hermanos

Papalote Nuevo r

o o r

Puerta Chilicote Trailhead Trailhead Chilicote Puerta l k A e

e d

Papalote Encino a l n e o C a y Ojo Escondido l o i n

r

o o Mexicano 2 r r La Monilla n y Papalote Llano Nuevo

r o C 3TE3 3TE3

A M Papalote Llano Madera Canyon Vista del Chisos La Cuesta Javalin Pens

Sauceda

Escondido C

s a a

Mexicano 1 n

r r

y y

o o

Escondido Pens e h h

o n t t

South Leyva n La Mota 2 a

r P P Javalin

e

n

n

r n o Javalin Trailhead Trailhead Javalin Tascate 1

22 y 9 o Los Ojitos Leyva Trailhead Trailhead Leyva 4 5046 5046 e y n

Rancherias a

n Mountain Panther La Mota Mountain La T C

a Los Cuates

C n

o o

y Guale 1 y

n n o a a Cinco Tinajas Trailhead Trailhead Tinajas Cinco C d Papalotito Colorado a a

r

v s

Yedra 1 a o Closed Canyon Trailhead Trailhead Canyon Closed

y i

Yedra 2 r l

e e s e d C a n y o n n o y n a C d e s h h

c c o L 5135 n n

l o C C Oso Mountain Oso a

Guale 2 Nopalera Trailhead Trailhead Nopalera (Highest Point in Park) Point in (Highest R 38

9

4 n n o o

Las Burras 1

y y Trailhead East Rancherias

Agua Adentro Mountain Adentro Agua n n

a a

Las Burras 2 C C Yedra Trailhead Trailhead Yedra Adentro Adentro Ojito

Las Burras 3 Ojito Adentro Trailhead Trailhead Adentro Ojito

o o

n n

s s

AguaAdentro Pens o

y y Trailhead Guale

n n O O a a Colorado Canyon

T a p a d o C y n . C C 10 Arenosa Rancherias West Trailhead Trailhead West Rancherias

5002 5002 n s s

n n e

Bofecillos Peak Bofecillos

Rancho Viejo Trailhead Trailhead Viejo Rancho o a a o o

Papalote Rancho Viejo

r r

y y

y y

r r

n n

n n

4345 4345 d a a

u u

a a

C C B B lasBurras de Cerro Botella Residence

Las Burras Trailhead Trailhead Burras Las C C

s s

Vista del Bofecillos a

L L

s s n

s s

o o a a

r r l l

u u l l A A

i i a c c

e e

B B f f - Portal de Presidio Park Entrance

r Miles

o o

B B k k

170 G

e k k

e

r e e e

C

r r Redford C C

o

s s

l l

l l

s s

i i H

r

e k k 2 3 4 5

c

n a

l o r r

B

e e

T T

d d

a

o R Private Property Private i orRoad Trail

4 miles

a a

r

d

e i

P

a a

m m

s only. for representation boundaries are Property is shown on map. Visitors Not all private property Disclaimer: Map does on private property. should not trespass Additional trails and not depict all trails and roads. depicted for informational and wayfinding roads purposes only.

0 1 l l a

C A A

- R � Ft. Leaton Food and Lodging Big Bend Ranch State Park The lodge at Sauceda is a

bunkhouse with a commercial kitchen. Meals are prepared and Access and visitor services served in a common dining area. Meal service can be arranged

with advance notice. Lodging is Vehicle­Accessible available bunkhouse style with men on one side and women on Camping the other. The three­bedroom “Big Fifty­five locations have been House” sleeps eight. The Big House designated for vehicle­accessible has a full kitchen, or meals may be camping. Permits are required. taken at the Bunk House. Pets are Each site includes a tent area, not allowed in either. For infor­ picnic table and fire ring. Some mation, rates and reservations, campsites are still under call (432) 358­4444 between development and may temporarily 8:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. lack some amenities. Campers are required to place Enjoy the Park tents in designated areas only. (and Live to Tell About It) Desert resources are fragile. Important: All visitors are The beauty of Big Bend Ranch lies required to haul out their human in its rugged remoteness. You are waste and pack out all trash. responsible for your own personal safety while at the park. Stay alert, Portable privies are available for read posted materials and consult purchase at all permit­issuing Road conditions are affected by rain and runoff and will stations. a ranger for advice. vary widely. Check with a ranger for conditions on arrival. Stay cool. Desert heat can kill, and Downed wood is critical to desert sunburn is no fun. While enjoying ecology. Gathering firewood is Know Your Vehicle the park, be sure to use sunscreen. prohibited. Visitors may bring Wear a long­sleeved shirt, long their own firewood or purchase it Some roads are suitable only for high­clearance or four­wheel­drive pants, a broad­brimmed hat and at Sauceda. Charcoal cooking fires vehicles. If you have any questions about the roads or the suitability of your sunglasses. Avoid strenuous and containerized fuel stoves are vehicle, consult a park ranger. outdoor activities during the allowed. Ashes must be packed • Two­wheel­drive (2WD): main road and some spurs that any highway­ hottest part of the day. Always out or deposited in the fire ring. worthy vehicle, driven responsibly, can access. drink plenty of water. The maximum stay per permit is • Two­wheel­drive, high­clearance (2WDHC): roads where extra clearance 14 nights. Water is life. If you wait until is required due to road conditions (rocks, steep dips, etc.). you’re thirsty to drink, you’ve Individual Campsites • Four­wheel­drive (4WD): recommended where extra traction is required waited too long. Carry and • Up to 8­person occupancy on steep, loose or soft ground. Includes all­wheel drive (AWD). consume at least 1 gallon of • 3­vehicle limit • Four­wheel­drive, high­clearance (4WDHC): primitive roads or routes water per person per day to Group Campsites harsher then 4WD, where passage requires vehicles with extra traction, avoid dehydration. Drinking water rigid suspension and high clearance. is available at the visitor center. • Up to 12­person occupancy • 5­vehicle limit High clearance is considered a minimum of 8 inches. Weather the weather. In a lightning storm, seek shelter inside a Equestrian Staging Campsites building or a vehicle with a roof. Do • Up to 24­person occupancy Rules for the Road Less Traveled not stand under trees or in shallow • 12­vehicle limit Park roads are dirt and may be narrow. Speed limit is 25 mph on primary caves, and avoid high ground. Stay park roads. Drive slowly to keep yourself, your passengers, your vehicle Campsites at Campgrounds away from water, wire fences and and the park’s animals safe. metal railings, which can carry • 3­vehicle limit When should 4WD be engaged? Generally speaking, once you leave the lightning from a distance. maintained road, shift from 2WD into 4WD and leave it there until Stay high and dry. Dry creek beds returning to the maintained road. Use 4WD low before you need to Pets can quickly become raging torrents negotiate any really difficult obstacles. due to rainfall far upstream. Be Pets are allowed anywhere vehicles Take care of your tires. On primitive roads, the number one trouble is tire cautious when hiking in stream­ are allowed, and within 1/4 mile of failure, often sidewall punctures. Drive slowly and watch for sharp rocks, beds. Never cross rain­swollen publicly accessible roads. Always sticks and cactus. Carry fix­a­flat, a lug wrench, hydraulic jack and tow creeks or washes. Be aware that keep pets on a leash and pick up after strap. A good spare is essential; two spares are recommended. temperatures can fluctuate by 50 them. Never leave pets unattended or Always carry an extra 5 gallons of water. degrees per day at the park, and allow them to approach wild animals dress accordingly. Stay dry to or longhorn cattle. Beware of brush. The woody bushes of the desert are extremely hard and prevent hypothermia. can produce nasty scratches in your vehicle’s paint. Don’t go it alone. Tell someone your plans and estimated return time. Avoid exploring alone. Cell Medical Services phone service is spotty at best; do not rely upon it. Always have Note: Cell phone service in the park is unreliable and limited. No medical facilities are plenty of water and food with you. available within the park. The nearest hospital is located in Alpine, approximately a + three hours’ drive from Sauceda. Local Emergency Medical Services are: Emergency dial 911

Terlingua Medics: (432) 371­2222 | Presidio EMS: (432) 729­4308

8 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department What to do while you’re here

erosion. Geology and resultant unlike the limestone canyons Hiking and Horseback landforms ultimately of Big Bend National Park and Biking Riding determine where and how the the Lower Canyons, are region’s plants, animals and entirely of igneous rock. Raft humans live. So as you soak up trips may be arranged through Trails provide the only means the scenery, remember that local outfitters in Terlingua of accessing many areas within you are looking far back into and Study Butte. Big Bend Ranch State Park, geologic time—a long chronicle and allow visitors an intimate of earth history. rapport with the outdoors. Commercially Ultimately the park will boast 65 routes comprising 236 miles River Access Guided Tours of interconnected trails. The system strives to capture the and Outfitters spirit of the land by offering Horseback represents another The Rio Grande/Rio Bravo trails that are scenic and way to view and appreciate Big corridor is an easily accessible Bend Ranch State Park can educational, and offers varying Bend Ranch. So, saddle up and area of the park for day use, promote public access for those levels of accessibility and explore almost 300,000 acres in including rafting, kayaking, individuals apprehensive of such challenge to people of all ages the Chihuahuan Desert. canoeing and free bank fishing. a primitive site or who may be and abilities. Equestrian activities are Several river access points are looking for a recreational allowed in all areas of the park found within the park along Due to rough terrain, some of experience that they are unable unless specifically excluded. FM­170. Colorado Canyon the park’s trails are suitable to facilitate themselves. All pack and saddle stock users includes Class II and Class III for hiking only. Other trails Potential services may include: must obtain a backcountry use rapids. This section of the river available to for mountain equestrian trips, river rafting, permit, whether for day use or is not considered dangerous bikers and equestrians as well. mountain bike tours, campouts, overnight. Equestrians must under normal flow conditions. Refer to the park map or nature/birding hikes and art bring their own weed­free The walls of Colorado Canyon, speak with a ranger for details. and photography classes. horse feed. All horses must If you do not have a bike, have documentation of a rentals are available at the current Coggins test. Sauceda Ranger Station or Certified Commercial through local outfitters. When Guides for Big Bend biking, always wear a helmet. Ranch State Park are: Carry plenty of water and wear Rock Watching appropriate, protective Big Bend River Tours clothing. Most importantly, 432­371­3033 or The primary attraction of the have fun! 800­545­4240 Big Bend country is its scenery, and here, scenery is geology. Desert Sports The mountains, canyons, 432­371­2727 or plateaus, rivers and waterfalls 888­989­6900 are all the direct results of Far Flung Outdoor Center geologic processes of mountain 432­371­2489 building, volcanism, rock 800­839­7238 formation, subsequent faulting, folding, weathering and

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 9 A sense of place Featured Activity: famous canyons. Volcanism, weathering, erosive rains, Watch runoff and groundwater moving through the Shutups, Fresno Creek, Terlingua Creek and Contrabando Creek the birdie combined to expose and shape the landforms that park visitors see today. Eons of erosion exposed some of the Earth’s most ancient rocks including shales, sandstones and cherts in Solitario’s core. On first impression, the Vermilion flycatcher Solitario’s interior seems to be an unremarkable terrain of low rolling hills covered by desert grasslands and scrub. But the exposed geologic history reveals one of the most remarkable accounts of our planet’s past that can be seen in one place. These rocks are deformed, uplifted and eroded Rock Wrens are present year­ Over 300 species of remains of the Ouachita round and a wide variety of Mountains, which predate the birds reside in Big Bend sparrows can be found here in Rockies. Massive limestones Ranch State Park winter. This area can be very productive during migration that were seafloor deposits (late March through mid­May were uplifted during the Rocky by Mark Lockwood and late August through mid­ Mounting building period of Big Bend Ranch State Park October) when flycatchers, Earth’s history. These deposits offers the opportunity to warblers and tanagers can be now form the Solitario’s outer explore Chihuahuan Desert common. Migration in West rings. The entire southwest habitats including grasslands, Texas is not as spectacular as quadrant of the Solitario desert scrub, canyons, and farther east, but surprises can has steeply inclined inverted riparian woodlands and be found. Some of the more Black­throated sparrow V­shaped rocks called “flat thickets. The greatest diversity interesting finds at Ojito irons.” Viewing them from the and abundance of birds is Adentro include Painted south or west at sunset is a normally found near the Redstart and a variety of breathtaking experience. numerous springs and along eastern warblers. Hiking through this world­ streams scattered around the class geologic landmark is truly park. Large springs normally A walk along a dry arroyo in a walk through time. are found in association with well­developed desert scrub will reveal a different group of riparian woodlands There are several places in the (cottonwood­willow­hackberry birds. Say’s Phoebe, Verdin, park to experience the full and shrub thickets). Curve­billed and Crissal visual impact of the Solitario. Thrashers, and Black­tailed Zone­tailed hawk One of the premier birding Solitario Overlook is a few Gnatcatcher join more Bell’s locations within the park is miles past Sauceda and is Vireos in this habitat. An found at Ojito Adentro accessible by 2WD vehicles. easily accessible place to find (wayside stop #4). The trail Fresno Overlook on FM 170 these birds is along the arroyo from the parking area between Lajitas and the Tepee that passes along the west side traverses through desert scrub of the Sauceda headquarters Picnic area offers a great view into riparian woodland. The complex. Two of the more in late afternoon. For a closer song of the Bell’s Vireo is a abundant birds on Big Bend look you’ll need a 4WD high­ common sound of the thickets Ranch can be encountered clearance vehicle, to reach the along arroyos and in the Mexicano Trailhead. A short understory of riparian habitats almost anywhere. They are the hike will give you spectacular and can hardly be missed Scaled Quail and Black­ Solitario vistas. The interior of between early March and throated Sparrow. Keep an eye the Solitario can be accessed September. In spring and out for them as you travel summer, watch for the Zone­ along the park’s many roads. via a 4WD high­clearance tailed Hawk, Vermilion Be sure to pick up a copy of road to the Tres Papalotes Flycatcher, Summer Tanager, the park’s bird checklist, Birds Trailhead. Hikes, some Blue Grosbeak and Varied of Big Bend Ranch State Park, substantial, can then be made Bunting. Canyon, Bewick’s and to record your sightings. to all points of the interior. Scaled quail

10 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department Lights, Camera, Archeology, History and Culture: Action! The Rock Art of Big What, a movie set in the middle of the desert? It’s true! The scenic grandeur and Bend Ranch State Park — cultural flavor of the Rio Grande corridor at Big Bend Ranch has long inspired A Reflection on Culture History artistic expression, including filmmaking. About 5 miles west of Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center along FM 170, you will see what looks like a quaint 1800s village perched on the banks of Rio Grande. This “village” is actually a movie set dating to 1985. Have you seen any of the five films or the award­winning music video that were shot here? • Uphill All the Way (1985) • Rio Diablo (1993) • Gambler V: Playing for Keeps (1994) • Streets of Laredo (1995) • Dead Man’s Walk (1996) • My Maria, music video (1995) Ancient Native American pictographs in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Please treat these sites with the sensitivity that they deserve. Please do not touch the pictographs or spray liquids on them, which may accelerate fading. Want to Other sites contain petroglyphs, Though early Spanish explorers to the Big Bend referred to the images that are etched or Know More? region as el despoblado, meaning abraded into the rock. The park stores at Sauceda uninhabited or deserted, the Headquarters and Barton Several rock­art styles and a region has in fact been continu­ Warnock Environmental variety of figures are ously inhabited or visited by Education Center have a well­ represented within the state various cultural groups for over rounded selection of books that park, including curvilinear 10,000 years. Native Americans delve into the region’s geology, (wavy) and rectilinear (zig­zag) lived in the region for most of plants, animals, culture and abstract images that could date that time. Beginning with the history. Included are children’s at least as far back as 5,000 arrival of shipwrecked Spaniard books, memoirs, cookbooks and years ago, during what is Alvaro Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca, field guides. Check out the known as the Early Archaic his companion Estebanico and a offerings and period. These images are band of pack traders in 1535, find a book painted in a variety of colors, Spanish, Mexican, and Euro­ that’s right for including red, yellow, black and American populations also you. Perhaps white, or are occasionally settled and traveled across the one of the While some of the rock­art Big Bend. abraded into the rock surface. following? sites may be visited by park Subsequent pictographs begin While evidence of the more visitors without a guide, other • The Three Little Javelinas to include anthropomorphic recent occupants of the Big sites are especially sensitive and by Susan Lowell (animal and human­like) Bend is readily visible in the are accessible by way of staff­ figures, and are frequently • Geology of Big Bend structural remains, art, and led tours. When visiting these painted only in red or only in Ranch State Park everyday items these people left sites, please treat them with black. Some of these rock by Christopher D. Henry behind, evidence of the earlier the sensitivity that they deserve paintings could date to the Late Native American inhabitants is so that others may enjoy them • Chronicles of the Big Bend Archaic period, beginning about somewhat more difficult for in the future. Please do not by W. D. Smithers 3,000 years ago, while others visitors to recognize. Perhaps touch the images or spray date to the Late Prehistoric, • The Texas Outback: Ranching some of the more obvious liquids on them to make them beginning about 1,100 years ago on the Last Frontier cultural features that reflect easier to see; pigments in the and ending with the arrival of by Bill Wright the diversity of Native rock paintings are affected by the Spanish. More recent American groups that inhabited the oils on your skin, and • The Wind that Swept Mexico pictographs date to the early or traveled through the region moistening the images can by Anita Brenner — and their ways of life — are Historic period, beginning in cause accelerated fading. And, • The Buffalo Soldiers the rock art panels that dot the 1535. Among the Historic of course, do not deface the by William Leckie landscape. Twenty­nine such period pictographs at Big Bend rock art or remove artifacts sites, most of which are Ranch State Park are from these sites. With every • Quicksilver pictograph (rock painting) numerous figures of riders on occurrence of such vandalism, a by Kenneth Ragsdale sites, are presently known on horses, one of which depicts an piece of irreplaceable history is Big Bend Ranch State Park. early Spanish saddle. lost to all of us.

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 11 The River Road Runs Through It

Pick up a map and enjoy the shaded picnic facilities at Fort Leaton SHS.

The river road is not a journey for the hurried traveler. Only 50 miles in length between Presidio and Lajitas, it takes about 1.5 hours to complete. The road is a roller coaster of 20­mile­ per­hour turns with numerous Rio Grande vista from pullout just west of La Cuesta (Big Hill). ups and downs. So take your time and savor the experience. El Camino del Rio, also known Motorists are treated to Drive safely along this “Trail as The River Road or FM­170, pullouts at the summit, where of Treasures” because you skirts the southern boundary of they can stop and take in the never know what is around Big Bend Ranch State Park. It grandeur of the Rio Grande as the next bend. has been touted by National it cuts its way through the Before embarking on the River Geographic as one of the most surrounding Chihuahuan Road, stop in at either the scenic highways in all of North Desert. This is a favorite stop Barton Warnock Environmental America. And for good reason for those who want to watch a Education Center near Lajitas —traversing this road is like glorious sunrise or sunset. or at Fort Leaton State Historic Contrabando movie set, located traveling through time. While For those wishing to leave the six miles west of Barton Warnock Site near Presidio. There, you hugging the banks of the pavement, the River Road has Environmental Education Center can pick up maps and receive picturesque Rio Grande, on the River Road. several trailheads leading to information on what not to miss travelers are treated to more than 60 miles of on the drive. Be sure to tour windshield views of geologic backcountry trails that region’s cinnabar mining days. both facilities while you are formations that resulted from there. Fort Leaton served as a traverse some of the most One of the park’s most popular the region’s tumultuous past, home and trading post along remote areas in the Big Bend. hikes is the Closed Canyon when volcanism shaped the the Chihuahua Trail beginning The Rancherias Loop Trail is a Trail, which is covered on page landscape. The forces of in 1848, and as a private fortifi­ favorite among backpackers. 2 of this newspaper. faulting and erosion have cation for the Leaton family For day hikers, the Rancherias sculpted the land over the From several access points against Indian raids and attacks Canyon Trail leads to a millennia into the stunning along the River Road, visitors by bandits and other outlaws. waterfall that cascades over vistas seen today. A kaleido­ can easily access the Rio Barton Warnock Environmental several rock ledges into a scope of natural wonders awaits Grande for fishing, floating, Education Center profiles the refreshing pool of water. The you on this world­class drive. birding or simply to soak up archeology, natural history multi­use Contrabando Trail and cultural heritage of the One of the more spectacular offers access to hiking, the serenity and splendor or Big Bend Region, and features a sights along the route is La horseback riding and mountain the river corridor. Three botanical garden that allows Cuesta, or The Big Hill. biking. Interpreted sites along campgrounds provide picnic visitors to walk among charac­ Ascending over 500 feet above the way include a candelilla tables and shaded shelters for teristic plants of the the river below, this stretch of wax camp, ruins of an historic day use or overnight camping. Chihuahuan Desert. road is perhaps the longest and homestead dating to the late Two designated group camping steepest paved grade in Texas. 1800s, and relics from the areas can support large groups. Happy Driving!

el SOLitarIo Big Bend Ranch State Park Fort Leaton State Historic Site Executive Director TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE P.O. Box 2319 PO Box 2439 Editor Carter P. Smith DEPARTMENT MISSION STATEMENT W. Phil Hewitt Presidio, Texas 79845 Presidio, Texas 79845 To manage and conserve the natural and cultural Associate Editor Peter M. Holt, Chairman Fax (432) 358­4679 (Sauceda) Fax (432) 229­4814 resources of Texas and to provide hunting, fishing Linda Hedges San Antonio Phone (432) 358­4444 (Sauceda) Phone (432) 229­3613 Regional Director T. Dan Friedkin, Vice­Chairman and outdoor recreation opportunities for the use Houston Mike Hill and enjoyment of present and future generations. Barton Warnock Environmental Texas Parks and Wildlife Mark E. Bivins Amarillo General Superintendent J. Robert Brown El Paso Education Center Department Headquarters Rod Trevizo You may view this and other publications through the TPWD Ralph H. Duggins Fort Worth HCR 70, Box 375 4200 Smith School Road Web site. Please visit http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/publications/. Antonio Falcon, M.D. Rio Grande City Terlingua, Texas 79852 Austin, Texas 78744 Karen J. Hixon San Antonio Fax (432) 424­3404 (512) 389­4800 In accordance with Texas State Depository Law, this publication is Margaret Martin Boerne Phone (432) 424­3327 (800) 792­1112 available at the Texas State Publications Clearinghouse and/or John D. Parker Lufkin www.tpwd.state.tx.us Texas Depository Libraries. Lee M. Bass, Chairman­Emeritus Fort Worth © 2008 Texas Parks and Wildlife Department PWD BR P4507­1437 (6/08) www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/bigbend/bigbend.htm

12 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department