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What Is Called Drinking? Heidegger, Wine, and Loss

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What Is Called Drinking? Heidegger, Wine, and Loss Heidegger Circle 2017 Walla Walla, WA Word count: 4,960 What Is Called Drinking? Heidegger, Wine, and Loss Andrew J. Mitchell / Emory University Heidegger’s writings are dripping in wine; it occupies a privileged place in his thought, for it is the figure of loss, waste, and squander par excellence. As such, it plays a crucial role in Heidegger’s economy of the singular and the replaceable, of the thing and the technological standing reserve. If technology seeks to ensure that everything is replaceable, then loss would be anathema to that agenda. What can be lost is precisely the irreplaceable, the singular. And if contemporary technology stands as the culmination of metaphysics, any effort to deviate from its agenda of replaceability would be an attempt to break with metaphysics itself. Thus, and as astounding as it might sound, wine plays a key role in the overcoming, or “conversion” (Verwindung), of metaphysics. Wine against technology? against metaphysics? Yes and yes. 1 1. Jeweinigkeit: Wine in Heidegger’s Works Heidegger’s passing references to wine betray a great familiarity with it. Almost every stage of wine production is to be found in them. Heidegger’s remarks run from the harvest to the bottling. Let me quickly run through a few of these. The first is undoubtedly that of “gathering,” Heidegger’s interpretive translation of the Greek λόγος. The harvesting of grapes is the privileged example here.1 He is aware of vineyard conditions in repeatedly referencing phylloxera [Reblaus], the aphid that feeds solely on the roots of grape vines, inadvertently imported to Europe from the United States in the late nineteenth century.2 More broadly, viticulture plays a role in what it means to be mortal. For Heidegger, mortals dwell, and this means that they “build,” i.e. they help coax along that which is given. The prime example of such 1 “Here, now, and for the future we understand ‘lesen’ in a broader, and at the same time more originary, sense: ‘to glean the fields’ [die Ähren auf dem Acker lesen], ‘to gather the wine grapes in the vineyard’ [die Weintrauben lesen im Rebberg]; ‘to gather wood in the forest’ [das Holz lesen im Wald], λέγειν, lesen, λόγος, die Lese [the gathering or picking]” (GA 55: 266–67). Further references abound: “Die Traubenlese nimmt die Beeren vom Rebstock ab” (GA 7: 215). “denn λόγος gehort zu λέγειν, und dies besagt und ist dasselbe Wort wie unser ‘lesen’ – Weinlese, Ährenlese: sammeln” (GA 9: 278/XXX). This gathering in the sense of the grape harvest underwrites the gathering of lesen as a “reading”: “Λέγω, λέγειν, lateinisch legere, ist dasselbe Wort wie unser ‘lesen’: Ähren lesen, Holz lesen, die Weinlese, die Auslese; ‘ein Buch lesen’ ist nur eine Abart des ‘Lesens’ im eigentlichen Sinne” (GA 40: 132/XXX). “Ohne dieses Versammeln, d. h. ohne die Lese im Sinne der Ähren- und Weinlese, vermochten wir nie, auch nicht durch ein noch so scharfes Beobachten von Schriftzeichen, ein Wort zu lesen” (GA 8: 211–12/XXX). 2 He uses it as an example of a being in need of a ground in Introduction to Metaphysics (1935): “Somewhere in the vineyard, for example, phylloxera [Reblaus] turns up, something indisputably present at hand. One asks: where does this come from, where and what is its ground?” (GA 40: 30/31, tm). It is even an example of how we use the word “is”: “We choose a simple and common and almost careless saying, in which Being is said in a word form whose use is so frequent that we hardly even notice it. We say, ‘God is.’ ‘The earth is.’ ‘The lecture is in the auditorium.’ […] ‘Phylloxera is in the vineyards’” (GA 40: 95/97, tm). See also a remark from the Schelling lecture course (1936): “Admittedly, this indication cannot be of the sort whereby we prove the presence of phylloxera on grape vines” (GA 42: 189/XXX). 2 “tending and caring” (hegen und pflegen) is again the cultivation of the vine.3 Passing remarks of his show that he is aware of the wine crush and the role of dregs in the pressing of wine and is even aware of the need to reduce acidity in the vats (perhaps a reference to malolactic fermentation).4 Heidegger is aware of bottling as well, he remarks on the types of wine (the German Spätlese, for example) and also on the effects of aging whereby wine turns to vinegar.5 All that leaves is the drinking of wine. Friendly biographer, Heinrich Wiegand Petzet confirms not only that Heidegger drank, but that he did so critically: We had frequent appointments in the city [Freiburg], where Heidegger liked the old Zum Falken wine tavern [Weinstube]. This tavern, too, fell victim to modernization; and its setting, transformed into that of a first- class hotel, lives only a borrowed existence as a wine restaurant and has 3 “To be human means: to be upon the earth as a mortal, which means: to dwell. The old word bauen [to build] says that the human is insofar as he dwells. But this word bauen means at the same time: to tend and care [hegen und pflegen], namely to till the soil [den Acker bauen], to cultivate the vines [Reben bauen]. Such bauen merely shelters, it shelters what grows as this ripens into fruit of its own accord. Bauen in the sense of tending and caring is no production” (GA 7: 149/PLT 145, tm). 4 See “that is as necessary as the dregs in the pressing of wine” (GA 42: 46–47/27, tm) and “According to the withdrawal understood in this way, there would then be no being. One would thus be understanding withdrawal in the sense of a process through which, for example, one withdraws acidity from wine so that it doesn’t have it any more. But being is not a thing that some one of us takes away and puts to the side” (GA 10: 104/70). 5 “Just as the Greek word λόγος means λέγειν [the verb ‘to gather’] and λεγͅόμνενον [the noun ‘what is gathered’], so does the German word die Lese also mean at once the carrying out of the gathering, i.e. in the course of the grape harvest, but also what has been gathered in the sense of the yield of the gathering, such as when we speak of a ‘Spätlese’ as an available kind of wine” (GA 55: 267). “When wine becomes sour and turns to vinegar, it does not become nothing. When we say: ‘It has turned to vinegar,’ we mean to indicate that it came to ‘nothing,’ i.e., not to what we expected. In the ‘vinegar’ lies the escaping, the absencing, of the wine [das Ausbleiben, die Abwesung des Weines]” (GA 9: 297/227, tm). 3 retained little of its original charm. Heidegger and I often sat in the Thoma-Stüble of the Falken or in one of its deep window corners, along with a bottle whose “label claims” [Marke] we tested like experts.6 To speak of Heidegger and wine, then, is no arbitrary decision, the texts and the life fully warrant it. 2. To Gather and to Pour Gathering defines wine. With the harvesting of the grapes and its collection in a jug (or carafe), wine is gathered. But wine also gathers, and in a rather extreme way, for wine is the coming together of nothing less than earth and sky. Earth and sky “abide in the wine that the fruit of the vine provides, in which the nourishment of the earth and the sun of the sky are betrothed [zugetraut] to each other. […] In the gift of wine, there abides […] the sky and earth” (GA 79: 11/10–11). Earth and sky are “betrothed” or “entrusted” to each other in wine; wine is their bond (GA 79: 11/10). The relation of earth and sky is nothing untethered or free-floating. It materializes in wine. Wine exists as the intersection of earth and sky. Wine is their proof. And this would be Heideggerian terroir, the intersection of earth and sky in the wine. We would taste for this. 6 Heinrich Wiegand Petzet, Encounters and Dialogues with Martin Heidegger, 1929–1976, trans. Parvis Emad and Kenneth Maly (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1993), 185, tm. 4 But this gathering would not be a gathering if it were not irreconcilably tied to dispersal. The collective force of gathering in Heideggerian thought would have to be met by just as powerful a thinking of disjointure, loss, and waste. This is a central topic in the lecture “The Thing,” where the prime example is a jug. The jug holds by retaining, but its retention, too, is only thinkable against a possible dispersion, a pouring out. The essence of the jug lies in a holding that is defined by an outpouring. But we are not interested in outpourings that go to mortals as a libation to satisfy their thirst, for these are put to good use. Rather, we are interested in those outpourings that do not satisfy a thirst, but are wasted.7 By Heidegger’s account, this is an oblation to the gods. The pour is the oblation spent for the immortal gods. The gift of the pour as oblation is the authentic gift. […] The consecrated oblation is what the word ‘pour’ actually names: offering and sacrifice. ‘Pour’ [Guß], ‘to pour’ [gießen], in Greek reads: χέειν, Indogermanic: ghu. […] Pouring is: donating, sacrificing, and therefore giving. GA 79: 11–12/11. 7 “GUIDE: Although one who is accustomed to drinking beyond thirst is indeed called a drinker, mere drinkers do not know how to drink, which is why we also use a word for their drinking that is used to designate what animals do, even though among animals there are never any drinkers of this type.
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