COUNTY vendors thingsdynamic. keeps But it’snostaticpostcard–analluringmixofsuperbrestaurants, beguiling pubsandartisan to escapeitspleasures. Medievalalleyswindamongitscastle,cathedralandruinedabbeys. city. inspired prideitself,itsnamesake byKilkenny’s peoplebusycreating intheirstudios. skilled Ormaybethey’reyou’ll findwonderfully just BennettsbridgeandThomastown, theirhomeinthecounty.Intownslike craftspeople make surging . and you’llsoonfindyourownrhythmamongthetidyshopfronts,mannered square and less travelled. Shamrock-cute Inistiogemaybestarofmanyamovie, butit’sthereal deal, scattered acrossthecountryside,seeminglyplacedtoreward theroad thosewillingtotake ofonegreat beautifuldesign. the landscapeasifpart swirling rivers andmoss-covered stonewalls. RelicsofcenturiesIrishreligious historydot hills where you’llsoonrunoutofadjectives forgreen. Tiny roadswanderthevalleysbeside For many, isallthattheyhopeforinIreland. It’saplaceofrollinggreen KilkennyCounty 322 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ From bucolic delights to citified fun, Kilkenny isadream.From bucolicdelightstocitifiedfun,Kilkenny cityluresAn enduringgift oftheNormans,Kilkenny visitorsby score whofindithard Perhaps beautyanditsinherent Kilkenny’s reward ofdiscovery and iswhysomanyartists Wanderers andramblersare pubsandexquisite rewarded restaurants bycharacterful

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS POPULATION: 75,500

34) n Bnetbig (p333) and ( p334) produce ofcreative localsinThomastown Predilection ( tongue-twisting p336 ) around cute littleInistioge( p335 ) and Perambulation ruins ofJerpointAbbey( p334 ) Erection DesignCentrethe Kilkenny ( p332 ) Creation city( drink inmedievalKilkenny p330 ) Consumption Admiringthecreative foundat arts Discovering themoodyCistercian Shopping forthecraftsand Enjoyingbounteous foodand Enjoying walksinand „ AREA: 1274 SQKM Jerpoint Abbey Kilkenny Bennettsbridge Graiguenamanagh Kilkenny figures onmanyanitinerary high % lonelyplanet.com try for a weekday orsometimeout oftry fora weekday sea- and indecorative trimall over town. onfloors inthe cathedral, andisused effect tomost striking This attractive stoneisseen which resembles aslate-coloured marble. ofcity’ because thelocalblacklimestone, kenny is alsosometimescalledthe‘marble inthe sweep River Nore. than fortress), which sitsmajestically ona it’smore castle(although mighty mansion attractionisitstown’s other‘must-see’ Thethe city’sIrish name,CillChainnigh. monastery here inthe6thcentury;hence orKenneth),(Cainneach whofoundeda cathedral, named after StCanice medieval hole. watering tre from cancarouse watering holeto a pub,andvisitors nearthecen- staying oddaddress St,every High appears tobe ers there for afun-filled weekend. Along merrymak- and thehordesof out-of-town are acheery mixof itsgregarious citizens charms to get here. allure, outitstraditional butitdidn’tsell Kilkennytaurants. hasplentyof modern bars, stylish boutiquesandinteresting res- warp realm, butinreality theyleadtocool may looklike thewaytoamysterious time- passageways andold-fashioned shop fronts tothearts.Itscobbled pedestrian devotion remains aculturalcentre, renowned forits thecityby.Kilkennytime hasnotpassed of politicalpower.the citywasaseat But owes ahuge debttotheMiddleAges, when appeal. timeless the town(oops,localsinsiston‘city’)a There’s aneleganceandvibrancythatgive willtake muchthe manydelights longer. on footinacoupleof hours, butsampling places to stay. of restaurants, lotsof pubsandmanyinviting age, acastle,interesting shops,awiderange compact showplacewitheasilyenjoyedherit- to andforgoodreason: it’safairly KLEN CITY KILKENNY Kilkenny can get crowded.If possible, As Kil- isn’tenough, ifbeingmedieval Presiding over thetownisasplendid Kilkenny’s pubsandbars 60-oddlicensed Much of Kilkenny’s architectural charm You cancover pretty much everything 056 /pop9100 KILKENNY CITY ••History KILKENNYCITY Kilkenny straddles theRiver Nore, which At thejunction of major several highways, ORIENTATION ing tour buses). farmers ontractors(you’ll see stoicallydodg- for more traditionalpursuits like agriculture industries aboutandit’stheregional centre streets. There’s alsoafairnumberof service visitorsthanks toallthose crowding the ny’s politicalinfluenceover Irish affairs. defeat signalledapermanentendtoKilken- of thecastlebefore Ormondsurrendered. The days, destroyingmuch of thesouthernwall tion, Cromwellbesieged Kilkenny for five After CharlesI’sexecu-power toCatholics. aimed tobringabout thereturn of landand alliance of native Irishand Anglo–Normans, The 1641Confederation of Kilkenny, anuneasy royalistsintheEnglishCivilWar.Catholic Anglo–Normans into Irish culture. fect anddidlittletohalttheabsorptionof the they were enforcedwithanygreat never ef- theoretically inforceformore than200years, the native thelawsremained Irish.Although tion of Anglo–Norman property anddeathto breach of thelawwastoresult intheconfisca- the Irishorplayinganymusic.Any part inIrish sports, speakingordressing like ited frommarryingthenative Irish,taking Irish society.Anglo–Normanswere prohib- increasingly assertive Anglo–Normansinto aimed atpreventing theassimilationof the ofStatutes Kilkenny, of aset Draconianlaws theso-called In 1366theparliamentpassed with itsownAnglo–Normanparliament. termittently of theunofficial capital Ireland, point on the Nore. kenny wasbuilttosecure acrossing Castle Anglo–Norman conquerorStrongbow.Kil- the earlof Pembroke andson-in-lawof the in the13thcenturyunderWilliamMarshall, here. Kilkenny consolidated itsimportance hismonastery established quently, StCanice Ossory toaccepttheChristianfaith.Subse- Kilkenny challenged Castle, thechieftains of visited Kilkenny and,onthesite of thepresent tohaveIn the5thcentury,StKieranissaid HISTORY charms. timeless the appreciate son, whenyou’llhave more opportunityto Today Kilkenny enjoysavibranteconomy During the1640s,Kilkenny sidedwith the During theMiddleAges, Kilkenny wasin-

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S t 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 B5 B5 B4 B5 C4 C4 B5 B5 C4 B5 B4 C4 B5 B4 A5 A3 B4 B4 A4 B5 B4 41 St Canice’sCathedral kenny DesignCentre (see p332 ). arestables nowhometotheintriguingKil- playground tothesouth.Thecastle’sformer lonelyplanet.com 1614; the wall at the top contains fragmen- 1614; the wallatthetopcontains Steps, whichand upSt Canice’s date from liament Stleadsyou over Irishtown Bridge approach tothecathedral onfootfromPar- to climbthe100steps ladders. upsteep The bothhands andyou’llneed squeeze a tight 12 canadmire afineviewfromthetop.It’s older than in excellentconditionandthose from missing itscrown,theroundtoweris site of anearlierChristiancemetery. Apart AD700 and1000onthe sometime between est structure withinthegrounds.Itwasbuilt array of ancienttombstonesandistheold- tower haven’t changed that much. model of Kilkenny asitwasin1642–things completed in1863.Alsoworthalookis ongoing. Thebeautifulroof in thenave was horses. Repairs beganin1661andare still damaged thechurch, their usingittostable down with it. proved tooheavy, bringingthechurch tower took himupontheoffer andthenewroof dral withleadtiles.Townofficials unwisely offering tore-roof partof Cathe- StCanice’s to LondonandWilliamspared by himself burned atthestake, butDameAliceescaped was implicated. Theunfortunate maidwas Dame Alice’snephew,WilliamOutlawe,also with hermaid,wasconvicted of witchcraft. DameAliceKyteler,intriguing events. along ofwas theconsequence oneof thecity’smore ofaster, thecollapse thechurch towerin1332, andresurrections.catastrophes The first dis- 1202 and1285,butthenendured of aseries church onthesite wasburned down in1087. Recordsshow thatawooden ny’s patronsaint. here Kilken- inthe6thcenturybyStCanice, hasitthatthefirstLegend monastery wasbuilt tower hashadalongandfascinatinghistory. Mar). 10am-1pm&2-4pmMon-Sat,SunOct- Sun Apr-Sep, Pl; adult/child€4/3; dral (after StPatrick’s inDublin), Ireland’s second-largest cathedral medieval Soaring over thenorthendof thecentre is Outside the cathedral, a 30m-high Outside thecathedral,a30m-high In 1650Cromwell’sforcesdefacedand The existing structure was raised between The existingstructure between wasraised

( This Gothicedificewithitsiconicround %

(admission €3; 776 4971;www.stcanicescathedral.ie;StCanice’s h KILKENNY CITY ••Sights KILKENNYCITY h 9am-1pm &2-6pmMon-Sat, Apr-Oct) rises amidanodd rises St Canice’s Cathe- St Canice’s round region at for sale the entrance. the National Dublin. Museum, ner wasdiscovered It’snowin inthehouse. permanently. In1850 aConfederation ban- supported James IIandsolostthehouse ofthe Battle theBoyne(1690)family sister wasabletoreclaim it,butjustbefore builder, hadallhispropertyconfiscated. His kenny, andPeter Rothe,sonof theoriginal played apartintheConfederation of Kil- 2008. in re-created gardenisduetoopen medieval ing very inperiodattire. uncomfortable A cordon of oddlyshaped mannequinslook- primarily goodformildlaughs, withits tion. Acostumeexhibitonthe1stflooris is ameticulousandimpressive reconstruc- ist. Thefineking-postroof of the2ndfloor art- head sculpted fromastonebyCeltic Viking swordfoundnearbyandagrinning tion of localartefacts, includinga well-used withasparse collec- amuseum now houses ofwas builtaroundaseries courtyardsand 4.30pm Mon-SatNov-Mar) h withthecathedralare available; child €4/3,combotickets ( inIrelandmerchant’s house is exampleof a16th-century The bestsurviving Rothe House church. the Butlersother notable crowdthiscornerof (listed onaboardinthesouthernaisle)to Margaret Fitzgerald. Tombsandmonuments Piers Butler,whodiedin1539,andhiswife, ahandsome sept, local blacklimestone. Inthesoutherntran- of thesouthernaisleismade of beautiful ment toHonorinaGraceatthewestern end from the13thcentury.Thefine1596monu- of StKieranembeddedinthe walldates the fatherof AliceKyteler. The stonechair the difference inspellinghewasprobably deKeteller,Jose whodiedin1280;despite inscribed inNormanFrench commemorates northern wall,opposite theentrance,aslab are onthewallsandfloor. set Onthe for a black cat. grounds promptyoutolookatthevery least the leaningtombstonesscattered aboutthe Ongloomydays carvings. medieval tary % In the1640s,wealthyRothe family There’s anexcellentrange of booksonthe polished ancient Inside, highly 10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 3-5pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10.30- 10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat,3-5pmSunApr-Oct, 772 2893;www.rothehouse.com;Parliament St;adult/ black tomb . ThefineTudorhouse has effigies of haseffigies Rothe House grave slabs grave 327

COUNTY KILKENNY KILKENNY COUNTY COUNTY KILKENNY Sun) admission free; contemporary Irishcrafts.It’spartof the narrow corridors. medieval the most picturesque of Kilkenny’s many entry andstonesteps, Butter Slipis byfar ofthe stalls butter vendors. Withits arched was builtin1616 andoncewaslinedwith (nowStKieran’sSt).It St withLowLane row anddarkwalkwaythatconnects High at thestake in 1324. Alice Kyteler’s maid,Petronella, wasburned was builtin1761onthespotwhere Dame fice. The thetouristof- until 1740butnowhouses help forthepoor. Itcontinuedasahospital tor SirRichard Shee andhiswife toprovide sturdy localstonein1582bybenefac- Shee AlmsHouse Other Sights almost 100 years ago. Column, blownupbynationalistsinDublin from remnants of theBritish-built Nelson to Patrick made St.Lookforthefountain ahotel youcanexitthrough Butler House, way thatextends intothebeautiful jewellery-making. and Ireland. There are regular inpottery classes from themembers of theCraftsCouncilof feature furniture, jewelleryandweaving dominate, butexhibitsregularlyCeramics agination of craftsincontemporary Ireland. thediversityexhibitions highlight and im- (see Design Centre p332 ). Thehigh-quality theKilkenny thatalsohouse former stables This National CraftGallery entrance. the mass, lookforthe13th-centurycoffins near within thenewerstonework.Openfordaily of more ancientarchways are stillevident from the18thand19thcenturies,butpieces datesration in1866.Much of whatsurvives 1650, itremained aroofless ruinuntilresto- FollowingCromwell’svisitin a courthouse. tion of themonasteries, itwasturnedinto In 1543,sixyears after Henry VIII’sdissolu- takes itsnamefromthemonks’blackhabits. founded in1225byWilliam Marshall and This DominicanabbeyonAbbey Stwas Black Abbey 328 Next to the Tholsel is Next totheTholsel thecomplex,lookforwalk- Behind , opposite Kilkenny showcases Castle, IKNYCT • Tus ••Tours KILKENNY CITY gallery Tholsel

( % h , on Rose InnSt,wasbuiltin , onRose , orCityHall, St onHigh 776 1804;www.ccoi.ie;CastleYard; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat,11am-6pm Butter Slip Butter , anar- gardens of of John St, dates from 1666.Itsstudentsin- Cromwell’s visit.Nearby noted foritsmanybeautifulwindowsuntil Priory list yet more tribulations. of before hunger goingonto anddisease…’, of of themanythousands ourpeoplewhodied despairbecause andeven fin ships, starvation, the famineyears, theyears of emigration,cof- cathedral beganin1843andcontinuedduring the entrancenotes: ‘Theconstructionof the ible frommostpartsof town.Aplaqueat were executed here. remains today. Rebelsfromthe1798Rising which it and thenin1794intoacourthouse, family andconverted intoaprisonin1568, Castle 1642 to1649.Nearbyistheramshackle site where thenationalParliament metfrom ofment) besidetheBank Ireland marksthe Confederation Hallmonument Quay,the road leadingdowntoBateman’s the throughout central city. ofCrumbling sections theoldwallsremain ensure thesafety of whopassthrough. those ing, albeitwiththehelpof bracingto metal from theoldNormancitywallsstillstand- Kilkenny Rhythm &Roots Rhythm Kilkenny people. of theyearthatattractthousands throughout oftal Ireland, world-class events withseveral Kilkenny knownasthefestival isrightly capi- FESTIVALS &EVENTS travelling with friends. askaboutagroup rate if you’re season; the off Toursthey couldtalk. may alsobeoffered in tell if buildingsmight intriguing storiesthese passageways. Smart,wittyguidesrecount the kenny’s narrowlanes,steps andpedestrian long walkingtours Kil- thatmeanderthrough h to comprehensive walking tours. Central Kilkenny cityissmallandwellsuited TOURS hall. county Kilkenny’s butitnowhouses George Berkeley, cluded JonathanSwiftandthephilosopher .kilkennyroots.com) In early May, more than30different InearlyMay, .kilkennyroots.com) On thecornerof Parliament Standthe Gate Black Freren Across theriver theruinsof stand The 19th-century Tynan Tours numerous timesdailymid-Mar–Oct) , originallybuiltin1210,butlosttothe , which wasfoundedin1200and

( % 087 2651745;adult/student€6/5.50; onAbbey Stistheonlygate St Mary’s Cathedral St Mary’s ( % Kilkenny College Kilkenny (really just afrag- 779 0057;www conductshour- lonelyplanet.com St John’s isvis- Grace’s , on book well in advance. advisedto gold,andyou’re seriously tion atthistimeislike daysinmid-August. Accommoda- cles for10action-packed andstreet children’s specta- events literature, visualarts, Thecitycomesalivewiththeatre, cinema,music, arts.ie) Cat LaughsComedyFestival Cat emphasised. strongly rootsmusic festival, withcountryand‘old-timey’American inhostingIreland’s biggestmusic venues participate Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ivy-covered walls,you’llfindthingsrelaxed -ireland.com; 35Parliament St;dm €16-20; and is usually quiet. progress, butit’sfriendly,there’s alaundry are coldand theback‘garden’isaworkin Tilda thedogisareal charmer. Breakfasts tel istrulyano-frills experience,although Vicar St;dm€15-18) Follow ariver path there. park is1.5kmsouthof Kilkenny off theR700. person from€7) www.treegrovecamping.com; NewRossRd;campsitesper Park &Camping Caravan Grove Tree Budget service costing €4. accommodationbooking runs anefficient rates soarandinsummer),thetouristoffice booked move (anunwise atweekends when If you’re arrivingintownwithnoroom SLEEPING Festival Celtic Kilkenny Festival Arts Kilkenny ering of world-class comics; late May to ofworld-classcomics;lateMay ering early June. .thecatlaughs.com) CatLaughsisamuch-acclaimedgath- September to September early October. exhibits,seminarsandmore. Heldinlate Performances, especiallythelanguage. celebration ofallthingstradIrish, Macgabhainn’s Hostel Hostel Macgabhainn’s Kilkenny Tourist Hostel Tourist Kilkenny of fake Irish barsinEurope.of fake Locally, most peoplestilldrink itscorporate cousin, Guinness. look atoneofthe other oldplacesintown’. atthegatewe asked terms toseethisamazing relic, to‘go theguardtold usinnouncertain Cromwell in1650andthenbyDiageo. It’sanintriguingstructure butit’snowofflimits. When the If yousmellsomethingfunnyintheair, itmaybetheBudweiserbeingbrewed under licence in BAD BREW is showings ofapromotionalvideo. Enjoy!What’sworseisthatrightinthemiddleofcomplex enjoyed bygenerationsare nowathingofthepast,intheir placeare sporadicsummertime Harp andlotsofspirits),thebrewery isnolongerthecivic iconitoncewas. The toursonce– St Francis’Abbey Note that Smithwick’s Irish Ale is also known as Kilkenny Ale,thenameit’ssold underatscoresNote thatSmithwick’sIrishAleisalsoknown asKilkenny Smithwick Brewery Thiscampinggroundinasmall Thistidylittle16-bed hos- ( % (www.celticfestival.ie) A , whichwasfoundedbyWilliamMarshall in1232,butdesecrated firstby

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( KILKENNY CITY ••Sleeping KILKENNYCITY % Insidethe ) 777 0302; . Nowownedbydrinksgiant Diageo(Guinness, High St.Thecolourscheme canbestbeHigh a simplepubof namejustoff thesame B&B accommodationin16roomsabove p of pubsandshops, Daley’sisvery basic St; r€50-90; a wall here. a landscapepainter, herworksadornmany AngelaWhen notcharming is themasses, bathrooms, others have viewsof thecastle. B&B. Roomsare some have bright, sky-lit welcome toguestsatthisclean-as-a-whistle to theworldandsheextends awonderful is literally Ireland’s goodwill ambassador St;r€50-80; .indigo.ie; 18Michael TVs. ceiling-mounted thetinynot noticeasyousquinttosee described as‘dog’sbreakfast’ butyoumay St;r€45-130) 4Friary kilkenny.com; clean andcomfy have TVs. B&B isvery straight-forward: theroomsare Rd; r€45-70; B&B Cleere’s Midrange location. convenient cheapie, decentroomsanda witheight and feels abitmotel-like. It’sanadequate There’s free wi-fi. beds are mostlyinfour- toeight-bed rooms. outfitted withcouches andafireplace. The60 pheric diningroom,whilethesittingroomis rants. There’s alarge kitchen andanatmos- goodrestau-half adozen clubsandseveral main street of Kilkenny, withinafew steps of and friendlyatthisIHHhostel. It’sonthe Darcy’s GuestHouse o Dempsey’s Rafter Daley’s B&B ) Hidden away behind a dense rowHidden awaybehind adense Celtic House Celtic p p

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329 COUNTY KILKENNY KILKENNY COUNTY COUNTY KILKENNY .com; 15-16VicarSt;r€70-150; hotel witharistocratic trappingsincluding is nowaluxurious this gracious townhouse of Ormonde (whobuiltthenearbycastle), St; r€125-250; fine. weather’s race isachoice spotforadrinkwhenthe views fromsomerooms.Theriverside ter- by acourtyard.There’s free wi-fi anddecent ern roomsinapurpose-built wingfronted Nore, bythebridge, thishotel has90mod- .com; JohnSt;rperpersonfrom€110; from will recall the‘Rock‘nRollCreation’ routine tubs have apodlike showercontraptionthat bathrooms are spotless and large, the although dated withratherdarkbrownsandbeiges. The up- the buildingisdated, thedécorhasbeen are 30roomsof Although varyingstandard. ous publicspacesof thisKilkenny landmark John St;r€80-200; Langton HouseHotel Top End its onlya10-minute walkto the centre. garded. Theornate roomshave free wi-fi and breakfast andtherestaurant re- ishighly exudes graceandcharm. There’s asuperb beautiful 10-room,Victorian-eraguesthouse Dublin Rd; mix of woods light and pastels. smallrooms.Thedécorisastylish slightly friendly placehasbroadbandinternet inthe room hotel belowthecathedral,this right there’s afridge in room. every ful courtyard.Breakfasts are and continental nicely appointed roomsopeningontoarest- has10 their guests,thisfriendlyguesthouse Patrick St;r€70-130; flair inthe 53 rooms. feline isfaded,you’llfindvibrantcolourand hotel. Whiletheattitudeandauthorityof the offbeat thetoneatthisslightly the lobbysets mangy 150-year-old tiger mounted in Bengal .ie; JohnSt;r€60-160; plements the exterior. andamuted décorthatcom- have cableTV liven theviewsfrom11rooms,which St.Flowerboxes off High isright house en- 330 Lacken House Lacken Butler Court ArmsHotel Kilford Kilkenny River Court River Kilkenny Butler House InnHotel Kilkenny IKNYCT • Etn ••Eating KILKENNY CITY This is Spinal Tap

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( h % 777 1727; 56 High St;sandwiches€4; 777 1727;56High 776 1143; 66 High St;meals€6-15; 776 1143;66High This stylishly modbar 10am-7pm) 776 5133;69JohnSt;mains €8- ( % 776 1756; St Keiran’s 776 1756;StKeiran’s Upstairs from Langton’s is Langton’s ( % 772 2118; slipped intoaFrench countryhomeasyou h nvredn supply. never-ending andvegbowls of tocomein boiledpotatoes ing grannies.ThefoodistradIrish; expect lunch whentipsyblondestotter pastgossip- here mosteverybody’s forSunday Certainly lonelyplanet.com menu is classic Italian and everything from andeverything menu is classic Italian restaurant The in aneleganttownhouse. the shadowof the castleatthislower-level h menus(€23)arecourse set great value. together insymphonicharmony.Three- expect butitallworks ements thanyoumight combinations. There are more flavours andel- on thewalls,like thefood,shows surprising changing menu.The boldandedgyartwork for manyof ontheseasonally thefoodsused theproprietor,lists localsources Carron, mains €16-28; the midstof successful ahighly dinner party. thespiritsandyou’ll feel in tages soonloosen meats are sourcedlocally.GoodFrench vin- comes fromDunmore andtheexcellent East enter fromshadowy Butter Slip.Theseafood to to seafood classics. continental Mainsselections. range fromdelicate pizzas the tinydiningroomandpartake of thewine French bistro. in Holdhandsatthetinytables in–thisisalovelyyou right littleromantic mains €10-26; basement. dungeon-like but touristsof allages whoopitupinthe option: baked filledwithbaked potato beans), (themenuboastsa‘healthy’ is pub-standard was charged withwitchcraft in1323.Thefood Having acquired somepowerfulenemies,she all of whomdiedinsuspiciouscircumstances. nets intown.TheDamehadfourhusbands, builtin1224,isoneofhouse, thetouristmag- €9-20; sip. to and anyonewholikes winewillfindmuch will blossomafter reading themanychoices local artonthewalls)restaurant. Vegetarians formal (white tablecloths) yetquirky(eclectic There’s amerry vibeaboutthissomewhat combine forafusionof globalflavours. 2.30pm &6-9.30pmTue-Sat) Rinuccini Rinuccini o Pordylos Brasserie Lautrec’s Inn Kyteler’s Fléva noon-2pm &6-9pm) 12.30-3pm &5.30-10pm) h

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COUNTY KILKENNY KILKENNY COUNTY COUNTY KILKENNY it’s builtonthree aroundanoldstone levels admission €8-12) Rd) h ting spilled on. market crowd thatactuallycares about get- décor. DJsspinaneclecticmixfor anup- andsnazzy atmospheric lighting Hotel there’s thisstylish hideaway,withits 10.30pm andweekend club nights. There are around live starting DJsmostnights, church over thatwasbrought from Wales. what’s check tosee hot now. Kilkenny istheregional hubof clubbing; Nightclubs to last 18 minutes? formances. Whyisitthatintermissions seem theatre hostsdrama,comedyandmusicalper- Parliamentkenny.com; St) releases. Hollywood Cineplex Kilkenny Cinema &Theatre website is www.whazon.com. weekly checkFor informationonlocalevents, outthe ENTERTAINMENT and alonglistof proper cocktails. hotel comfyleatherbanquettes barwithdeep, one toomany.Take refuge here atthisswanky bejust other pintinanatmosphericpubmight There maycomeatimewhenhaving yetan- is theplacetolookfortrad music sessions. favourites Bone. Especiallyinthe summer, this 332 Hibernian Bar Hibernian Morrison’s Bar Morrison’s Theatre Watergate Fourscreens here blare withthelatest O’Faolain’s Thomastown are twoothergoodplacesfortopqualitycrafts. but thenexusofculture isamajorfactor. affordedbyhigh-browKilkenny Bennettsbridgeand commercially inthecounty,oneofhighestconcentrationsIreland. Reasonsforthisvary, beads ofAllThat Glistens. Overallthere working are atleast130fulltimecraftspeopleandartists crystal ofJerpointGlass,thelusciousleatherbagsChesneauLeathers andthehandmade lookforthespongewaresale. FromCountyKilkenny, pottery ofNicholasMoss,thehandblown .kilkennydesign.com; CastleYard).kilkennydesign.com; a numberoflocalcraftspeople,suchasthevolubleAByrne,silversmith. been extensively renovated. BesidestheNationalCraftGallery( p328 ), thebuildingsare hometo Across The Parade from Castle areKilkenny theelegantformercastlestables(1760),whichhave KILKENNYCRAFTY 5pm-1am) IKNYCT • Etranet ••Entertainment KILKENNY CITY The shopsofthe frontbuildingholdsgallerylike Kilkenny People Inthecellarof theHibernian ( The club itself isanattraction: Theclubitself % (

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h Kilkenny istheregional centre forshopping. SHOPPING dog racesat Locals droolover theresults of theregular Sport crowd. barely-18 getlive Sundaynights a actsmanynights. lier get infree). DJsrulebutthere are also whoshow upear-until around10pm(those really getthis clubusuallydoesn’t cranking few doors fromtheKilkenny TouristHostel, mission €8; Net onSt Patrick’s to St.There are services passengersdrops off atthe very central Café tickets.sells BusÉireann also picksupand –whichSt adjacenttothe trainstation also ates fromashelter about 200meastof John Bus Éireann Bus two hours from Dublin. road workisdone,thecitywillbewell under forthe17kmrunwesttoKilkenny.off When parallel N9.AtPaulstown, theN10branches which willgreatlypast Carlow, relieve thebusy is ongoingtoextend theM9allwaysouth motorway totheM9andheadsouth.Work Driving fromDubliniseasy:take theM7 GETTING THERE&AWAY est in the region. ping mall, shops. Openingby2008,aflashynewshop- mallbehindarowofa multilevel St High local stores St,andin alongHigh You’ll findaninteresting mixof chain and Kilkenny DesignCentre Morrisey’s Club Morrisey’s 8pm Wed&Fri) h MacDonagh Junction MacDonagh

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( % In a basement a Inabasement 772 1214;Freshford Rd; , willbethelarg- lonelyplanet.com 772 2118;www Market Cross Market oper- , hour, two daily). hours, five daily)andWaterford (€8.40,one three hours, twodaily),Dublin(€9.80,2¼ (€6.80, onehour,12daily),Cork(€14.90, (€6.30,onehour,12daily),Clonmel Carlow lonelyplanet.com on the R697. The village is13kmsouthof Kilkenny city impressive andromantic monastic sites. Priory, thevillage has oneof Ireland’s most ofa tributary theNore. inKells However, road, ahamletwithfinestonebridge on County Meath) isamere widening of the Kells withKells (nottobeconfused in KELLS &AROUND craftspeople. notable the workshopsof someof the county’s most youcanvisit in placeslike Bennettsbridge, side therivers thetowns.And andbetween country, withbeautifultrailsrunningalong- have superbscenery.Thisisprimewalking towns like andInistioge Graiguenamanagh rich, green andNore Barrow valleys.Riverside and dotted withcute villages overlooking the of Kilkenny cityislacedwithcountryroads The area southeast– south–andmostnotably CENTRAL KILKENNY you’ve of finallyhadenough all that green. lawnmowersa fineday’sride. Italsosells if Inistioge, Jerpoint Abbey andKilfanemakes bikes at€20perday.ThecircuitaroundKells, in all areas. both sidesof St.Otherlotsare High scattered There are large parking lotsandgarages off GETTING AROUND (€9.80, 50 minutes). for Dublin(€22,1¾hours) andWaterford fivevast newmall.Kilkenny trainsdaily sees 200m backfromJohn Sttomake wayforthe The trainstation Train (€7, andPortlaoise Carlow 1½ hours). city(€5,50minutes) inCounty to Carlow .ie) has two buses perdayMondaytoSaturday hastwobuses JJ Wall&Son For acab,call &Sons JJ Kavanagh

( % CENTRAL KILKENNY •• Kells &Around CENTRALKILKENNY••Kells Danny’sTaxis ( 772 1236; 86 Maudlin St) 772 1236;86Maudlin %

( 772 2024) % 883 1106;www.jjkavanagh has been shovedhas been ( % 223 8887). rents out work of art itself. chest. Themulti-arched stone bridge isa nettsbridge isan artsandcraftstreasure south of Kilkenny cityonthe R700,Ben- ontheRiverIn ascenicsetting Nore 7km % BENNETTSBRIDGE &AROUND minder of theanonymity of starvation. but theunmarked graves are apoignantre- ( p46 ) are buried.Itisn’tmuch tolookat, where thelocalvictimsof theGreat Famine road 2kmsouthof isa Callan, West of Kilree, andsignposted themain off Graveyard Famine Callan hewasn’t grounds because a Christian. His finalresting placeliesbeyondthechurch andhisbodywashedupnearKells. servant, time inthe840swhileattempting tosave a some drowned intheKing’sRiver atCallan He’s king,NiallCaille. high tohave supposed tomarkthegravesaid of a9th-centuryIrish cross,which is tower andasimpleearlyhigh the priorycarpark) there’s round a29m-high About 2kmsouthof Kells (signposted from Kilree RoundTower&HighCross road. Stonyford suppressed in 1540. into permanentdeclinebeginningwhenitwas burned downbysquabbling warlords.Itwent over1250, theabbeywastwicefought and withinasinglecenturyfromtory. Indeed, the heavy wallshintatatroubledhis- curtain unusually wellfortifiedforamonastery and foundations of somechapels It’s andhouses. the remains of an dwellingtowers. Insidethewallsareseven a carefully restored protective wallconnects of richthe 15thcentury.Inasea farmland, while thebulkof thepresent ruinsare from nastic site date from thelate 12thcentury, sheep. bleating the site alone,withonlythecompanyof achanceMost daysyoustand of exploring sunny daytheoldprioryissimplybeautiful. a religious experience. Atduskonavaguely strictions. Withnohours orfees, it’salmost like, withnotourguides,tours, ropesorre- can amble about astheylike, they whenever This isthebestsortof ruin,where visitors Kells Priory The ruinsare 800meastof Kells onthe The earliestremains of thisgorgeous mo- 056 /pop950 Augustinian abbey Augustinian cemetery andthe 333

COUNTY KILKENNY KILKENNY COUNTY COUNTY KILKENNY to theeponymouscraftsman,whotakes Rd; admissionfree;) museum displayinglocalitems ofmuseum inter- ing bar is always popular. menu of andmore. pizza,pasta Thecoffee €8-25; central signposted. is justbeforeturn right thebridge; thepark nettsbridge fromKilkenny alongtheR700, picnic area. Ifyou’re comingintoBen- a strawbounce. There isatearoom and dle rabbits,navigate amazeandjumpon and campers. Kidscancaress goats,cud- Apr-Sep) admission €4; Annamult;day 7229; http://norevalleypark.tripod.com; bric-a-brac. est, includingoldfarmingtoolsandother the cally and sold internationally. sellers. Mostof thedesignsare created lo- colours –emerald-green numbers are big and accessoriesare onoffer inarainbowof design.com) boutique of throughout tables the workshop. in creating elaborate candles;hundreds line smoke. Theairisredolent withthewaxused an oldgarage after itsoldfactorywentupin the bridge, items. decorator them intosimplyelegantfurniture and fine woodsfromfive continentsandturns for its scones. hotdishesetc.It’srenownedsandwiches, lunch, withacreative line-upof soups, stairs, the shopyieldshuge savings.A seconds Up- lands of cheap labour farfromIreland). made craftitems somehailfrom (although linensandotherhand- terns. Italso sells pottery that’scovered withsponged pat- handmade spongeware –creamy-brown 5pm Sun) www. nicholasmosse.com; CountryShop Nicholas MosseIrish 334 Yet anotherfew hundred metres away,by Just uptheroad, In abigmillbytheriver westof townis Besides the café at Nicholas Mosse, the thecaféatNicholas Mosse, Besides Park &Caravan Valley Camping Nore On asmallroadabove Nicholas Mosse, For fineleather,check outthe factory ( Nore View FolkMuseum View Nore % ETA IKNY • hmson&Aon CENTRAL KILKENNY••Thomastown&Around h isa2-hectare farmthatsuitskids , a pottery shop that specialises in, apottery shopthatspecialises 772 7948;www.keithmosse.com) Italian Affair , nearthevillage centre. Stylish bags noon-3pm &5-9pmTue-Sun)

café camp sitesfrom€8; Moth toaFlame Chesneau isthebestchoice locallyfor isaprivately ownedfolk

( % h

Keith MosseWoodWork- Keith ( % 770 0988;4ChapelSt;mains 10am-6pm Mon-Sat,1.30- 772 7456;www.chesneau

h ( ( % % 9am-7pm Mon-Sat 27749; 27749; Danesfort 772 7826)

has agood ( % ishome 772-7105;

( % isin 972 adult/child €2.90/1.30; point Abbey One of Ireland’s finestCistercian ruins, Jerpoint Abbey the Fairy.Truffle madewithnettles)andchocolatescheese from (anamazinghard Cheese Carlow cheese), drinna Farmhouse (fresh Cheese goat-milk from theirownorganic raspberries),Knock- (made products carriedincludeG’sPreserves foods.Someofshrine toIrish artisan thelocal include aniconicdog captured mid-snarl. Lyons. Her whimsicalceramicsandsculptures 4977; LowSt) intriguing shops andcafés. centre, which hasasurprisingassortmentof 14 castlesthatwere originally here. bridge, 13th-century ments of wallandthepartlyruined amedieval Thomastownhassomefrag- mas deCantwell, awful. Namedafter WelshmercenaryTho- thecentre canbethrough andthetraffic the Dublin–Waterford road(N9)runsright for itscrafts.Nicelysituated bytheNore, Thomastown isasmallmarket townknown % THOMASTOWN &AROUND Church of St Nicholas modern-day Turkey andreburied himinthe Jerpoint removed hisbodyfromMyrain retreating of theknights intheCrusades, Claus) isburiedneartheabbey.While Santa on otherhistoricruinsin the region. for afree guidedtour;there isasmallexhibit bishop of Ossory, whodiedback in1202.Ask Felix O’Dullany,Jerpoint’s first abbot and tobethat oftomb thought thehardheaded the church. Thischancel area a alsocontains tury paintingremain onthenorthernwallof families. Faint tracesof a15th- or 16th-cen- tombs of members of theButlerandWalshe onthechurch walls and inthe stone carvings the pillars, There includingaknight. are also ofthe series often on amusingfigures carved cloisters are perfectly atmospheric;lookfor early 15thcentury.Theroofless outlineof the The finetowerandcloister are late 14thor partiallyrestored.12th centuryandhasbeen inthetown ontheN9.Itwasestablished Oct-May) Food ForThought Ignore andexplore thetraffic thecompact According tolocallegend, StNicholas (or 056 /pop1750 isabout2.5kmsouthwestof Thomas- Mullin’s Castle Mullin’s

displays theworksof localartistBrid

( % Church ofStMary 24623; www.heritageireland.ie; HwyN9; 24623; www.heritageireland.ie; h tothewest of theabbey. ( % is the sole survivor of the isthesolesurvivor 9.30am-6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-4pm 9.30am-6pm Jun-Sep, 779 3297; Market St) 779 3297;Market Clay Creations Clay Creations lonelyplanet.com . Downbythe ( %

is a 772 Jer- wild 6-hectare gardens,which date fromthe spot withwoodedpaths its windingthrough stone-walled farmbuilding.Mostdays,you On theN10,afew kilometres northwestof the Stonyford of rated with acarving a monk. The grave ismarked byabroken slab deco- Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com and theeclectic menuchanges often. It’s al- fare. As you’dexpect,local ingredients star place winningplaudits foritscreative, natural €6-22; furniturestuffed towelcome weary souls. are welcomingwitharange of timelessover- the 18th-centurymansion;common rooms the River Nore. There are three large roomsin 8488; www.ballyduffhouse.com;s/d€55/90; theR700, mastown off In anidylliclocation7kmsoutheast of Tho- Sleeping &Eating church grafted onto one side. theyears,modified through a19th-century community.Much for clericslivinginaloose Jun–mid-Sep) adult/child€1.60/1; .heritageireland.ie; Service–run village of fortheHeritage Gowranisnotable N9 ( and 14kmeastof Kilkenny), thesmall Some 14kmnortheastof Thomastown onthe 2km northof townalong the N9. 2007; check foritsreopening. KilfaneGlenis tage isworthhikingto. in Note itwasclosed 1790s. Anelaborately decorated thatched cot- coat decorated withtheCantwell of arms. chain-mailtailed armourbrandishing ashield inde- thinknight Itdepictsatall, Cantwell. Fada calledtheCantwell Cantwell orLong of Thomasde has aremarkable stonecarving theroadandsignposted.50m off Thechurch ruined town ontheN9(Dublinroad),hasasmall, The village of Kilfane, 3kmnorthof Thomas- Kilfane exquisite artisticand practical items. can watch workers craftmolten glassinto www.jerpointglass.com) ally renowned of thenation- Stonyford. Thelocalhighlight, abbey andThomastown,is the smallvillage Ehs Bistro Ethos Glen&Waterfall Kilfane h 13th-century church noon-8pm Wed-Sat,noon-3pm Sun) , a 13th-century house of, a13th-centuryhouse worship ( St Mary’s Church St Mary’s % Jerpoint GlassStudio Jerpoint 775 4945;LowSt,Thomastown; meals , is housed here, ishoused inanold Ballyduff House

( % and 24558) ( % Normantower h 772 6894;www p CENTRALKILKENNY••Inistioge isapretty 9.30am-6pm overlooks

( ) is anew % ( % 24350; 775 , Woodstock Arms past Kavanagh’s supermarket. Five trains has been ratherplainly remodelled,has been butthe looking the square. Theinterior of this pub .com; Inistioge;s/dc40/70) areas and trails. ofis abeauty,withexpanses gardens,picnic ley below,andtheheavily forested parkitself forthepanoramaof theval- worth theeffort 9am-4pmOct-Mar) 8pm Apr-Sep, Woodstock Gardens the river. Sidetrailsleadupinto the hills. yet,trythe long. Better verdant countryside–youcan’tget lostfor of thesmallroadsthatleadoff thisintothe theriverthrough valley.Forvariety,trysome Thomastown makes foralovely for exploringtheregion.base The R700 from Way coursing town,thisisagood through on the river. the SunIsKing (1993), Inistioge’s filmcredits include escape theattention of movie-location scouts: Somewhere soinvitingcouldhardlyhopeto and vintage shopsfacingatranquilsquare. arch stonebridge spanningtheRiver Nore picture-perfect. Ithasan18th-century,10- The littlevillage of Inistioge (in-ish-teeg) is % INISTIOGE Kilkenny. via daily stopontheDublin–Waterford route supermarket onMain St in Thomastown. stopoutsideO’Keeffe’sand Waterford. Buses toDublin There are alsonumerousservices 10 minutes) andKilkenny (€6, 20 minutes). (€4, linking ThomastowntoBennettsbridge Bus Éireann Getting There&Away freshthat emphasises local ingredients. make regular appearancesonadailymenu salad, andCaesar grilled meats,seared salmon modern diningroom.Popularclassics,such as cate garden, Hudsonsmixes frillwithastylish, dinner €28; There are ona tables back patio. ways busy,soyoushould bookfordinner. Like manyneighbouring places,the Approximately 1km south, onMtAlto,is is1kmwestofThe trainstation town Hudsons With ascenicstretch of theSouthLeinster 056 /pop714 Circle of Friends h

( % 6-9pm Wed-Sun) ( % 779 3900;StationRd,Thomastown;set (1996).There are picnic tables

64933) ( % ( % 775 8440;www.woodstockarms has tables outsideover- hastables runs two buses daily runstwobuses 779 4000; parking €4; 779 4000;parking Overlooking anintri- Overlooking hiking trails hiking . Thehike upiswell (1994)and Widow’s Peak thatfollow scenic drive h Where 335 9am-

COUNTY KILKENNY KILKENNY COUNTY COUNTY KILKENNY that features menuthattakes global anightly (516m),about 6km away. tres downstream from town,andanotherup 1½ hours, toStMullins,justafew kilome- river there’s aserene wooded bridge thatisilluminated Alongthe atnight. The town’sbestfeature isitssix-arch stone 23kmsoutheastofthe Barrow, Kilkenny. mana’) isapretty littleriverside townon ‘greg-na- (pronounced Graiguenamanagh % GRAIGUENAMANAGH operate to NewRoss buses and Kilkenny. This iscar,bike orhike (!) country.Weekly Getting There&Away outside right the door. fresh, localandinventive. Future mealsgraze menuspairedtasting withwines.Thefoodis (€10each) various tapas andSaturdaynights ing creative experience. Lunches mayfeature Wed-Sun, 6-10pmWed-Sat) ( The restaurant, his teenage bedroomthere nowsitsakeg. exciting diningexperience. Where oncewas hasturnedhisfamilyhomeintoan Bassett tion longafter supper is over. diners canlinger over cordialsandconversa- inspiration. It’swelcomingandrelaxed, and Sat) 8655; PlasNewyddLodge;setmenu€35; clean. sparkly seven simple roomsupstairs are unfussyand 336 % Just outsideWoodstockGardens,John Just northof town, Mullins wending pastcanals andthroughsomewoodedcountry andpleasantgrassypicnicareas. fairly relaxed 12kmwalk. view oftheBlackstairsMountainsand MtLeinster totheeast.Areturn trip from Graigueisa scales yourself withatop-notchmeal. and Inistioge,twocharmingvillageswith amenitiesfortravellers. Ineithervillageyoucanreward astretchwith theprettiest ofsome13km,beginning part, ontheRiver Barrow. ItlinksGraigue the map,butinreality goodforwalking. Stick muchofitispaved highway,andnotparticularly managh throughInistioge,downtoMullinavatandwestwardPiltown. Itlooksattractive on South Way KILKENNY COUNTY WALK: has a delightful contemporary Irishmenu hasadelightful 059 /pop1700 775 8820;www.bassetts.ie; mains€25-28; ETA IKNY • riunmng CENTRAL KILKENNY••Graiguenamanagh The traildown Alternatively, alongthispathbranchoffonto Brandon Hill itself isan interesting destination). o River Barrow (516m).The broadmoorlandsummitiseasilyreached andaffordsalovely , is a constantly evolv- , isaconstantly slices through the hilly southern part of County Kilkenny, fromGraiguena- ofCountyKilkenny, slices throughthehillysouthernpart Motte Restaurant Motte Bassetts atWoodstock walk h fromGraiguetoSt Mullinsisequallybeautiful,withafirm path 7-9.30pm Wed- , of about h ( %

noon-2pm 775

h Brandon Way .com; QuayGraiguenamanagh;setdinner€36; exterior andwhitewashed interior onlyhint Thesimple practice, much totheirdelight). timeandyou’llinterrupt thekids’choirright is very much aworkingparish(comeatthe of 800years of additionsandchanges andit todayistheresultcian abbey.Whatyousee solidly of stone,ithas10modestrooms(€57 pressive 19th-centurycornwarehouse. Built Apr) onlyOct- 6.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat,12.30-2.30pmSun,weekends the in its unrestored state. tion of Christianart,pluspictures of theabbey somedayslonger) 1pm Mon-Fri, of the innocents. the harp.Thewestern side of andDavidraham’s sacrifice Isaac, playing depicting thecrucifixion,AdamandEve, Ab- Crosshaspanelsontheeastern side Ballyogan for protection inthelastcentury.Thesmaller here brought crosses, twoearlyhigh stand below thepresent Inthegrounds floorlevel. the original13th-centuryfloortiles,now2m the floornearby,aglasspanelreveals someof chain mailwho’sreaching forhissword.On of in aknight century, high-relief carving oftrance lookfortheKnight Duiske, a14th- ofat itslonghistory.Totheright theen- There are outside tables in summer. speciality smoked paired eel withhorseradish. esting modernIrish menu.Lookforthelocal The restaurant iswell-regarded foritsinter- to €110)andreceived arefurbishment in2007. 8am-6pm) Around thecorner, Down bytheboatstiedupalongriver, is a popular guesthouse housed inanim- housed is apopularguesthouse Dating backto1204, Waterside wasonceIreland’s largest Cister-

( (4km southofGraigue),which % 792 4246;www.watersideguesthouse houses asmallexhibi- houses Duiske Abbey Duiske Abbey Centre shows themassacre lonelyplanet.com h ( %

( restaurant h

24238; St 9am- .com; s/d€50/80; pint of stout,headto Ryan’s i between. in There’s bookstorebasic needs. agoodused mirably attempt toaddress theircustomers’ lonelyplanet.com most no smoke. verytaining littlesulphur andproducing al- widely regarded asbeingEurope’sbest,con- The anthracite, very hard formof coal,was for goodinthemid-1960s.mines closed the fuelwasdiscovered nearbyin1636;the became acentre foranthracite miningafter some 18kmnorthof Kilkenny. Thetown is onthegentleCastlecomer River Dinin, % CASTLECOMER &AROUND your own discoveries. smallest roadsyoucanfindandmaking you’ll enjoytheregion the bestbytaking frequently parts,but inthese visited sight a briefstroll.Dunmore Cave isthemost sure totempt thetraveller topullover for aretowns of andCastlecomer Ballyragget this partof thecounty,but thepicturesque boot. There’s notawholelotgoingonin the makingsof apicnicstowedawayinthe Kilkenny are perfect forleisurely drives with The rollinggreen hillsof northernCounty NORTHERN KILKENNY can partake of thebody treatment centre. forexploringtheareaa goodbase andyou from theriver. It’smodernandcomfortable, toattract that seems spare change. tery. Nearby,StMoling’sWellisaholywell besidethemonas- the centuries,stillstands cross,badlyworndownovercentury Celtic rounded bythegraves of 1798rebels. A9th- the ruinedhulkof anoldmonastery sur- don Hill,andfromitatrailwindsuphillto snakes here through intheshadowof Bran- tion onalongwalkfromGraigue. Theriver getaway, apicnic,orasrewarding destina- line)isgoodforarelaxingCounty Carlow from StMullins(onthe Graiguenamanagh, A tranquilspotabout 6kmdownstream ST MULLINS For fishing tackle, bakedFor fishingtackle, beansanda Mulvarra House Mulvarra 056 /pop2400 , twooldpubsonAbbey Stthatad- p NORTHERN KILKENNY••Castlecomer&Around NORTHERN

) ( is aB&Bjustupthehill % 051-424 936;www.mulvarra Mick Doyle’s Mick or Mick Mick (€3.50) toastopinKilkenny outside the new the coins were dropped bytheVikings (who from alater date. Onetheorysuggests that found coinsdating fromthe920s,butnone ple, mostlywomen andchildren. They also uncovered theskeletons of atleast 44peo- children tosuffocate. Excavations in1973 themenasslavesoff andleftthewomen entrance. thattheythen dragged It’sthought to smoke fires themoutbylighting atthe hidinthecaverns, the survivors Vikings tried ple attworingfortsnearhere in928.When sources, maraudingVikingskilled1000 peo- road(N78).Accordingtothe Castlecomer 5pm Oct-May) adult/child €2.90/1.30; Cave Striking calcite formationsenliven DUNMORE CAVE Hostel. Castle castle andtoastop300mfromFoulksrath ( Kilkenny (€4.30,20minutes). Bus Éireann Getting There&Away budgets. travel to behaunted bymore of thantales blown a 16th-centuryNormantowerthat’sreputed budget accommodation.The44bedsare in ting, andsurely rates amongIreland’s best hostel withasuperbset- near Ballyragget .ie; Ballyragget;dm€12-15; Travels gained notorietyastheauthorof dropped fromthenamebefore thesatirist school years inKilkenny. The‘e’wasevidently Heath public). the in the16th-century squarelyragget, withanalmost-intact tower Clogh the sceneryanddiscovering littlevillages like dering about. Drive thebackroads,enjoying woodlands. lush amongan exhibitiononcoalminingset toopenbytheendofset 2007.Itwillhave run bythecharming John Coffey. % Foulksrath Castle Hostel Foulksrath Castle Almost 2kmsouthof is Ballyragget About 8kmwestof isBal- Castlecomer Local fossil fuels are celebrated inthe You canbestenjoythearea byjustwan- 444 1264)

, which has alovely countrypub, ( , hometoJonathanSwiftduringhis Castlecomer Discovery Park Discovery Castlecomer % and 056-67726; www.heritageireland.ie; Ballyfoyle;056-67726; www.heritageireland.ie; , some6kmnorthof Kilkenny on

( has three to four buses daily hasthree tofourbuses % A Modest Proposal 64933) h hasfivedailyto buses 10am-6.30pm Jun-Sep, 10am- 10am-6.30pm Jun-Sep, Butler Castle p

) isabusyAnÓige ( % 67674; www.anoige . Buggys Coaches ( % (closed to (closed Gulliver’s 444 0707) Dunmore Dunmore Swifte’s Swifte’s Joyce’s 337

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COUNTY KILKENNY KILKENNY COUNTY COUNTY KILKENNY © LonelyPlanetPublications the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake like somanycaves, dampandcold.After a of death. wasthecause to thetheorythatsuffocation of violenceontheskeletons, lendingweight the slaughter. there However, are few marks with wax)whileenthusiasticallyengaged in often carriedthemintheirarmpits,secured 338 The cave iswelllitandspaciousalthough, OTENKLEN • DnoeCv KILKENNY••Dunmore Cave NORTHERN kenny outsidethecastle. daily(€3.50)fromastopinKil- four buses worthwhile. stalagmite. Thecompulsoryguidedtours are 7m Market Cross, Europe’slargest freestanding tites, andcolumns,includingthe stalagmites steep descentyouenter caverns fullof stalac- Buggys Coaches ( % 056-444 1264) lonelyplanet.com runsthree to