Yellowstone Science a Quarterly Publication Devoted to the Natural and Cultural Resources

Yellowstone Science A quarterly publication devoted to the natural and cultural resources

Archeology at Osprey Beach A Volunteer’s Perspective The Red Sowash Saloon Theodore Roosevelt IV’s YNP Keynote

Volume 11 Number 4 The Power of “the Thing Itself”

The great philosopher and purveyor of interpretive principles, me. It is the same vicarious thrill I sensed in John Muir’s “scrib- Freeman Tilden, once noted the extraordinary advantage Nation- ble den” in the study of his Martinez, California, home. I know al Park Service employees have over others because we are the that the irresistible authenticity of sharing the space of the great stewards of “the Thing Itself.” ones will compel me to visit Aldo Leopold’s “Shack” in Sand I remember experiencing this as a volunteer here 20 years County one day. In a like manner, when Theodore Roosevelt IV ago, when I first walked through the Albright Visitor Center and spoke at the recent event celebrating the centennial of the Roo- viewed, with some reverence, the pen that was used to sign the sevelt Arch, he embodied, as much as anyone today can, the spir- National Park Service Act. It was more than just an object to me, it of his great grandfather. You can read his remarks in this issue. more even than an interesting old ink pen. It represented the This past year, I had the opportunity to go to the Uni- efforts of many to establish a Service to administer the national versity of Pennsylvania to spea with students parks. It is the same hushed awe I feel when Lee Whittlesey pulls and faculty of the geology department one of Nathaniel Langford’s letters out of the archives or I see one where Ferdinand V. Hayden taught of the many fascinating pieces from the park’s museum collec- immediately before embarking on tion. There is something magical about “the thing itself.” his first geological survey of In this issue, you’ll read Mack Shortt’s account of archeolog- Yellowstone in 1871. As I walked ical work at Osprey Beach, in which he and his team dis- the corridors of Hayden Hall, named in covered a number of significant artifacts dating from honor of the intrepid explorer, some of the fac- roughly 10,000 years ago. These are the phys- ulty confided in me that there’s a longstanding tradi- ical “things” providing evidence of tion at the beginning of each academic year of visiting people who once lived here. Hayden’s gravesite in a nearby cemetery and drinking a toast in Having worked at Yel- his honor. Before leaving Philadelphia to return to Yellowstone, lowstone Lake for a number I also visited Hayden’s grave. Running my hand over the cold of years, I wondered if smooth stone and seeing that name etched in granite, I felt a mys- they shared the same won- tical connection over time and space between this man and the der at the beauty of the wild place in the Northern Rockies he helped to preserve. It made place as did I. me prouder still to be associated with the Service entrusted with When discussing “the Thing Itself,” the care of “the Things Themselves” that are the physical link Tilden implicitly includes “the Place Itself” and between us and the people, places, and events that comprise our “the People Themselves.” When visiting Robert nation’s natural and cultural heritage. Frost’s cabin in Vermont many years ago, I sat down in an over- RJA stuffed chair and dutifully watched as the docent switched on a rickety old film projector to show us the interpretive film on the poet’s years in this place. The footage portrayed Frost himself speaking from the same old worn chair in which I was sitting. My instinct was to immediately spring out of the chair, thinking two things: that I shouldn’t be sitting in the famous bard’s place, and that this organization should be taking better care of such significant “things” (in their defense, the Frost cabin was an exceed- COURTESY JOHN MUIR NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE ingly small operation, a tiny structure staffed by a couple of retired volunteers who seemed surprised and delighted to have any visitors at all out there in the middle of the Vermont woods). I am, nonetheless, grateful to have had this firsthand experience, and secretly hoped that even the smallest fraction of his writ- ing prowess might have rubbed off on Yellowstone Science A quarterly publication devoted to the natural and cultural resources Volume 11 Number 4 Autumn 2003 Contents

Record of Early People on Yellowstone Lake 2 Cody Complex Occupation at Osprey Beach A Museum of the Rockies crew pieces together life in Yellowstone 9,400 years ago. by Mack W. Shortt A Volunteer’s Perspective, and Archeology 101 10 Just what do archeologists do out there? by John Reynolds and Ann Johnson NPS PHOTO Red Sowash and the Round Prairie Saloon 14 Liquor, entrepreneurship, and the U.S. Army on the road to Cooke City. by Bob Flather

Editor Roger J. Anderson The Froth and the Fury 17 [email protected] Keynote speech delivered by Theodore Roosevelt IV on the occasion Assistant Editor and Design of the Roosevelt Arch centennial, Yellowstone National Park, August 25, 2003 Alice Wondrak Biel 7th Biennial Scientific Conference Sets Attendance Record 22 Assistant Editors Tami Blackford by Alice Wondrak Biel Virginia Warner News and Notes 24 Printing Mardy Murie Passes Away • Most of Norris Geyser Basin Reopens to Artcraft, Inc. Public • 2002 YCR Annual Report Available • Two Wyoming Men Charged with Bozeman, Montana Poaching Elk • Resource Damage at Lone Star Geyser • Yellowstone Wolf Reprinted in Paper

Yellowstone Science is published quarterly. Submissions are welcome from all investigators con- ducting formal research in the Yellowstone area. To submit proposals for articles, to subscribe to Cover: Cody Complex tools found at the Yellowstone Science, or to send a letter to the editor, please write to the following address: Editor, Osprey Beach site, drawings by Tah Mad- Yellowstone Science, P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. You may also email: sen. Researchers recording data in their [email protected]. logbooks at the site, 2002, NPS photo. Support for Yellowstone Science is provided by the Yellowstone Association, a non-profit educa- Facing page: Pen used to sign the Nation- tional organization dedicated to serving the park and its visitors. For more information about the association, including membership, or to donate to the production of Yellowstone Science, write to: al Park Service Act, NPS photo. John Yellowstone Association, P.O. Box 117, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. Muir’s desk at the John Muir National The opinions expressed in Yellowstone Science are the authors’ and may not Historic Site, Martinez, California. reflect either National Park Service policy or the views of the Yellowstone Cen- ter for Resources. Above: Emmanuel Gereta, of the Tanza- nia National Parks, speaks at the Seventh Copyright © 2003, the Yellowstone Association for Natural Science, History & Education. Biennial Scientific Conference on the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Yellowstone Science is printed on recycled paper with a soy-based ink. Record of Early People on Yellowstone Lake Cody Complex Occupation at Osprey Beach

by Mack W. Shortt AMANDA DOW AMANDA

Artist’s rendition of life at the Osprey Beach site 9,400 years ago.

Summary of the lake. The location was given the od, and should spark further investigations. Archeological research in Yellowstone name Osprey Beach for the birds who live National Park is in its infancy. While there (and whose fishing was not inter- Introduction archeologists generally know who was in rupted by our research). Our excavation In the study of archeology, the Precon- the park and when for any particular thou- and analysis have increased knowledge tact Period (i.e., the time prior to Native sand year block, little is known about the and understanding of those who occupied American contact with Non-Native Euro- daily lives of the people. The National the area roughly 10,000 years ago. It has American people) is divided into several Park Service and the Museum of the Rock- been learned that peoples thought to occu- broad time periods. Each time period is ies (MOR) have been investigating an py only the plains and foothills, and further broken down into cultural units interesting campsite that has potential to believed to be primarily bison hunters, (e.g., those with similar artifact assem- help fill in pieces of that gap. were also present in this mountainous lake blages) arranged in temporal sequences. The work described in this paper, con- area on a seasonal basis, and had adopted One such cultural unit is the “complex,” ducted on Yellowstone Lake in 2000 and the broader strategy of hunter-gatherers. composed of a unique assemblage of arti- 2002, has revealed new insights regarding This work, while illuminating on its own, facts. Questions relating to the origin and the earliest people who lived on the shore raises new questions about this early peri- ultimate fate of each complex, or other cul-

2 Yellowstone Science DRAWINGS BY TROY HELMICK (LEFT AND MIDDLE) AND TAH MADSEN (RIGHT) tural units, remain to be Site at Jackson Lake, and at answered. It is important to Fishing Bridge and near Solu- note that the term complex tion Creek in Yellowstone does not directly equate with National Park. Unfortunately, one particular ethnological the Cody Complex artifacts at tribe or cultural group we know these sites were mixed with from the historic period; in fact, those of more recent periods, it could be shared by several making it impossible to deter- groups of distinct people. This mine what other artifacts may article describes recent archeo- have been used at the Cody logical discoveries in Yellow- Complex camp. However, the stone National Park that relate distribution of these sites sug- to the cultural unit known as gests that seasonal adaptive the Cody Complex. strategies are broadly-based, and that Cody people were The Cody Complex engaged in a variety of sub- The Cody Complex was sistence activities, not just first defined in 1951 at the bison killing. The following Horner site; a bison kill located discussion addresses Cody roughly 100 km (62 mi) east of Complex strategies as reflect- Yellowstone Lake near Cody, Figure 1. Idealized artifact types. ed by the recent archeologi- Wyoming. The bison were Left to right, Scottsbluff, Eden, and Cody knife. cal investigations on the identified as an extinct species shore of Yellowstone Lake. known as Bison Antiquus that was half ferent from the contemporaneous peoples again as large as modern bison. Horner who inhabited foothills and mountain Archeology at the Osprey Beach subsequently became the type site (where regions. Our work is helping change that Locality this particular group of artifacts were first impression, which was, for the most part, The Osprey Beach Locality is charac- identified as occurring together) for the based upon a singular focus on the exca- terized by a high north-facing bluff that Cody Complex. The three tools associated vation of Cody bison kill sites and their rises slightly more than six meters (20 with the Cody Complex include Scotts- associated processing and campsite areas. feet) above the current lake level (Figure bluff and Eden projectile points (Figure 1, Indeed, sites such as Finley in the Green 2). The site was first recorded during the left and middle) and specialized tools River Basin, Carter/Kerr–McGee in the 1958 and 1959 field seasons by the Uni- referred to as Cody knives (Figure 1, Powder River Basin, and the Frasca and versity of Montana’s J. J. Hoffman, during right). A diagnostic feature of Eden points Jurgens sites in northeastern Colorado, are the first professional archeological inven- (Figure 1, middle) that does not show well interpreted as large-scale bison procure- tory of Yellowstone National Park. It was in this illustration is that they are diamond- ment operations. Campsites with Cody revisited in summer 2000 when, at the shaped in cross-section. Complete Eden components include Hell Gap in eastern request of Yellowstone archeologist Ann points are long and slender, which may account for their frequent breakage. rcheological sites and artifact types are typically named after the These three diagnostic tools may occur alone in sites or with either of the other Aperson who discovered the site, landowners of the site, or nearby two diagnostic artifact types. Radiocarbon towns. The Horner site is named after Pearl Horner, the original dates from the Horner site ranged from landowner. Scottsbluff and Eden points, Cody knives, and the Cody approximately 9,300 to 8,700 radiocarbon Complex derive their names from Scottsbluff, New Mexico, and Eden years before the present (B.P.). In recent and Cody, Wyoming. years, the Cody Complex has become a relatively well documented cultural entity identified on the Northwestern Plains and in adjacent Central and Northern Rocky Wyoming, Medicine Lodge Creek in Johnson, WSU volunteers surveyed a long Mountain basins. The typical Cody site northern Wyoming, Claypool in eastern section of beach and collected artifacts— dates from approximately 8,000 to 10,000 Colorado, the MacHaffie and Mammoth two Cody knives and a Scottsbluff projec- B.P. Meadow sites in southwestern Montana. tile point base—that suggested that early Cody people traditionally have been Cody Complex points and knives also Precontact Period archeological deposits viewed as representing “classic” early have been found in montane and lakeside could be present. Native American plains bison hunters, dif- contexts, however, such as the Lawrence The Museum of the Rockies archeolo-

Autumn 2003 3 NPS PHOTO gy field crew has com- wood shavings from pleted two field pro- whittling, as there are grams at Osprey Beach: many more shavings than a four-day evaluative finished carving.) Several excavation and survey in small activity areas con- August 2000, and a 15- sisting of concentrated day data recovery exca- scatters of flakes were vation program in recovered, marking the August 2002. The goal locations where someone was to recover as much worked on tools. of the archeological The great majority of deposits as possible, artifacts were small because ongoing natural pieces of obsidian pro- erosion and illegal arti- duced during the manu- fact collection continue facturing and mainte- to impact the site. The nance of tools. High WSU group also con- numbers of obsidian arti- Figure 2. The Osprey Beach site is on an eroding terrace about six meters ducted a limited test facts are unusual in Cody above the current water level of Yellowstone Lake. excavation program in Complex sites, but the area during summer 2001. While the facts were in bedded gravel beach Osprey Beach is the first Cody Complex small number of artifacts recovered by the deposits. Thus, at the time of occupation, site excavated in an area where people had WSU test has not yet been documented in Cody Complex peoples were camped on a easy access to unlimited amounts of obsid- a formal report, the two Cody knives, a vegetation-free beach, above the active ian. In addition to obsidian, stone material Scottsbluff point base, and a shaft abrader wave zone (see rendering on page 2). types at the site included opalized wood, collected by that crew are included in this various colors and grades of chert (an discussion. Who, What, Where, and When? opaque stone with a high silica content that Combined, the 2000 and 2002 MOR When were Precontact Native Ameri- is prized for tool-making), including semi- field testing programs at Osprey Beach can people at Osprey Beach, and what translucent dark green and pinkish-grey resulted in the excavation of 66 complete activities took place there? A convention- varieties, and a single piece of Knife River and partial units that were one meter al radiocarbon age of 9,360 (± 60) B.P. flint (from quarries in west central North square (Figure 3). Even so, site boundaries was obtained on a charcoal sample col- Dakota). The flakes from tool manufac- have not been identified. The excavations lected by Ken Pierce in 2000. The large ture and repair are currently being ana- revealed a simple stratigraphic sequence number of waste flakes (byproducts of lyzed and quantified. that consisted of three sedimentary units: manufacturing and repair activities), and a The tools were of greatest diagnostic two colluvial sand deposits and a series of variety of stone tools suggested that a value, however, and much has been pebbly beach sand lenses that resemble the number of domestic tasks were undertak- learned from them. Further, although no sands exposed on the modern beach. Dr. en. (An analogy for waste flakes would be preserved animal bone was recovered,

Ken Pierce, of the Unit- NPS PHOTO analysis of the tools has ed States Geological provided new and unique Survey, has suggested insights into subsistence that after the formation activities of these peo- of a paleo-shoreline ples. dating to ca. 10,500 years ago, the level of Analytical Tools Yellowstone Lake low- Archeologists make a ered and retreated to the concerted effort to deter- north. The pebbly mine the sources of stone beach deposits repre- used for tools, as this sented former paleo- information provides beach lines cut by wave insight into the travel action, and were patterns of the users. The formed when the level dark green chert used for of Yellowstone Lake two of the Cody knives was approximately five (Figure 4, top middle and meters (16 feet) higher right) are from the than today. The arti- Figure 3. Osprey Beach site during the 2002 excavations. Absaroka Mountains,

4 Yellowstone Science which form the park’s eastern border. tion of each source. obsidian was a locally available resource There are many sources of obsidian, and it A typical seasonal migration might for tools (see map below). is often possible to distinguish between look like this: Assuming that people were Blood residue analysis: Upon comple- them. camped on Yellowstone Lake during the tion of the 2000 and 2002 field programs, Obsidian sourcing: At 70–77%, sili- summer, they might have gone south in the Cody knives, projectile points, end con dominates the chemical composition the fall and acquired obsidians from scrapers, and retouched flakes were sub- of obsidian. In addition, each obsidian Conant Creek and Teton Pass on their way mitted for blood residue analysis, a test source contains a number of trace ele- to their winter camps in eastern Idaho. In that seeks to identify species of origin for ments, whose relative abundance (in parts the early spring, they might have moved blood proteins extant on some artifacts. per million) varies from source to source. north and replenished their supplies of This technique was pioneered by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police for modern forensics As people are believed to have collected [obsidian] from work, and has been applied to archeological specimens nearby sources in their travels, we can see where they over the past 10 years with considerable success. Arche- went by knowing the location of each source. ological specimens are washed with special liquids, and the residue is analyzed Using the trace elements zinc, gallium, obsidian from the Bear Gulch source, in a method similar to human blood typ- rubidium, strontium, yttrium, zirconium, before coming into the park up the Madi- ing. A tool’s blade and base are washed niobium, barium, titanium, and man- son River Valley and past the Cougar separately, often producing distinctly dif- ganese, each source has a unique “finger- Creek obsidian source. A slight jog to the ferent results. This may be because the print.” The individual composition of these north would get them in the vicinity of knife or point is attached to the handle or 10 trace elements (in parts per million) Obsidian Cliff obsidian, where a supply of spear with one type of material such as creates an original pattern that permits the raw material could be obtained before sinew or blood and then the blade may identification and separation of different returning to the Yellowstone Lake for the have had contact with a different animal. obsidian sources and artifacts made from summer. While on the lake, Park Point Labels in the artifact photos point to the those obsidians.

Thirty-eight specimens from NPS Osprey Beach were analyzed through x-ray fluorescence. These MONTANA obsidians were assigned sources as follows: 22 (58%) were from Obsidian Cliff Plateau, 8 (21%) YELLOWSTONE were from Bear Gulch (in north- NATIONAL PARK Obsidian Cliff eastern Idaho), and 4 (11%) from Cougar Creek Teton Pass (west of Jackson Spring Hole). Conant Creek Tuff (near the Idaho border between Yellow- stone and Grand Teton National Bear Gulch Park Point Parks), Huckleberry Ridge Tuff x Summer (in the southeastern quarter of the Winter park), Cougar Creek (northwest of Madison Junction), Park Point (on the east shore of Yellowstone Lava Creek Lake), and Packsaddle (in south- Conant Creek eastern Idaho) were represented Packsaddle by single specimens. We assume Fall there was little trade in local lith- Teton Pass ic materials, as everyone would have had equal access to them. As IDAHO WYOMING people are believed to have collected from nearby sources in their travels, we can see where Sources for obsidian specimens found at Osprey Beach and they went by knowing the loca- hypothesized seasonal round.

Autumn 2003 5 AMANDA DOW/R. KEVIN THORSEN type of blood residue found on ted for residue analyses provid- the blade and hafting ed equally diverse results (Fig- (notches/base) elements. Hafting ure 5). The stems of two com- is the means by which the arti- plete Scottsbluff projectile fact is attached to a shaft or han- points each elicited positive test dle. About 25% of the specimens results to cat (felid) antiserum, submitted for blood residue and one also provided a positive analysis produce positive results. result for bear. Another projec- At present, the technique can dis- tile point provided a positive tinguish between families but not reaction to deer antiserum on its between members of the same stem and blade portions. Finally, family. We know the identified the large obsidian expedient sheep blood is Rocky Mountain flake tool (Figure 5) provided a bighorn sheep because 9,400 positive reaction to canid anti- years ago there were no domestic serum. A key finding is that sheep in North America. bison, the hallmark target The stem of one of the green species of the Cody Complex, chert Cody knives (Figure 4) pro- was conspicuously absent in the vided a positive reaction to rabbit artifacts tested from Osprey antiserum. This may have been Beach; however, it may simply related to the site’s inhabitants’ not have been present in the skinning rabbits or to the use of samples tested. Had bison been rabbit ligaments for hafting. Both Figure 4 (above). Cody knives from the Osprey Beach site. identified, this would confirm The bottom row are all obsidian. Top left is brown chert, top are strong possibilities. Second, the earliest evidence of bison in middle and right are dark green chert. Blood residue analy- the blade of a broken obsidian sis results are shown by the arrows. the park. Cody knife yielded a positive reaction to canid antiserum, but Figure 5 (below). Scottsbluff points and bases (upper and Stone Tools Recovered middle rows), and parallel-oblique lanceolate projectiles we cannot differentiate between Stone tool types recovered (bottom row). Blood residue analysis results are shown by the four canid forms (wolf, coy- the arrows. from the Osprey Beach Locality ote, fox, and dog) found in the included seven Cody knives, park. It should be noted that a eight projectile points and frag- Scottsbluff projectile point col- ments, five shaft abraders, five lected during an excavation at awl abraders, a ground cobble, Fishing Bridge in 1992 also test- two end scrapers, one large ed positive to rabbit antiserum. retouched flake, and an adze. Two Osprey Beach knives These tools suggest that in addi- provided positive mixed species tion to domestic activities, a results (Figure 4). One artifact wide range of manufacture and elicited positive test results to repair tasks took place, imply- rabbit and deer on its stem and ing that the occupation lasted blade. The other provided posi- days or even weeks. It is likely tive test results for rabbit on the that one or more hides were pre- stem and Rocky Mountain pared at the site. bighorn sheep on the blade. Cody knives: The Cody Combined, the blood residue knives found both on the beach analyses of the Cody knives indi- below the test units and during cate that rabbit tissues were like- excavation represent three stone ly used as hafting materials and material types: vitreous dark that deer, Rocky Mountain green chert (probably from the bighorn sheep, and canids were Absaroka volcanic rocks on the probably butchered prior to arti- park’s eastern border), brown fact abandonment. Several years chert, and obsidian (Figure 4). ago, a chert Cody Knife, collect- All four obsidian knives were ed from the beach in the late made of obsidian sourced to the 1950s, tested positive for bison. Obsidian Cliff Plateau between The projectile points submit- Mammoth Hot Springs and AMANDA DOW/R. KEVIN THORSEN

6 Yellowstone Science AMANDA DOW/R. KEVIN THORSEN Norris Junction. allel-oblique lanceolate projec- Generally, the finely-made tiles temporally follow the brown chert and dark green Cody Complex (ca. 9,000 to chert Cody knives (Figure 4, top 8,500 B.P.), archeological row) are in better condition than research at Barton Gulch their obsidian counterparts. One (Alder Complex) in south- obsidian specimen had snapped western Montana, and Medi- during use, and another appears cine Lodge Creek in the to have been re-sharpened so Bighorn Basin, demonstrate often that the artifact has nearly that lanceolate projectiles lost its asymmetric form (Figure occur in assemblages that are 4, lower left). The two remain- roughly contemporaneous ing complete obsidian Cody with, or older than, those of the knives were, in relative terms, Cody Complex. The associa- less finely made and heavily tion of these forms with the worn. It seems that the Precon- Cody Complex artifacts at tact Period inhabitants of the Osprey Beach suggests that Osprey Beach locality were less members of different cultural concerned with curating obsidi- groups could have been com- an knives than with maintaining ing together seasonally in the integrity of the green and multi-ethnic gatherings. Both brown chert specimens. This groups may have originated phenomenon may be related to Figure 6. Three sandstone shaft abraders and split pumice from the Plains/Intermountain the unlimited quantities of read- cobble abrader (lower right). Basins and/or Rocky Moun- ily-available Obsidian Cliff tains and foothills. Plateau volcanic glass versus more “exot- that had a convex base, straight lateral Abraders: Abraders are objects whose ic” stone types, and to the relatively more margins, and an irregular-to-parallel- coarse surfaces are used to smooth a soft- brittle nature of obsidian. oblique flaking pattern (Figure 5, bottom er object. We identified three types: shaft Projectile points: For the most part, the left). This is Bear Gulch obsidian. The abraders (used to straighten spear shafts), projectile points recovered at Osprey other complete specimen, sourced to the awl/artifact edge abraders (used to make Beach were consistent with styles found at Obsidian Cliff Plateau, was characterized bone/wood awls or to grind the edges of other Cody Complex sites. These were by a convex base, excurvate lateral mar- stone artifacts), and a ground cobble. The probably attached to spears or darts (the gins, a slightly narrowing stem, incipient 10 shaft and awl/artifact edge abraders are bow and arrow do not appear until about shoulders, and a parallel-oblique flaking pieces of stone composed of cemented 200 A.D. in this part of the world). Forms pattern (Figure 5, bottom right). The com- sand. The size of the sand determines include three complete Scottsbluff projec- plete specimen closely resembles forms whether the artifact functioned as a fine or tiles, two manufactured of Obsidian Cliff from the Lookingbill site southeast of Yel- coarse abrader. The ground cobble tool is obsidian and one of translucent brown lowstone National Park. While most par- a split pumice cobble. The discovery of 11 chert (Figure 5, top sandstone abraders dur- row), and three ing excavation is note- Scottsbluff point worthy in light of the fact bases, one each of that they are rare at other Park Point, Obsidian Cody Complex sites. In Cliff, and Bear Gulch fact, the Osprey Beach obsidian (Figure 5, site has more sandstone middle row). abraders than any other Two projectile Cody Complex site in points recovered dur- North America. ing excavation were The artifacts identi- morphologically dif- fied as shaft abraders ferent from the (five) exhibit generally Scottsbluff and Eden wider grooves that types, which are the extend continuously hallmarks of the Cody AMANDA DOW/R. KEVIN THORSEN between the lateral mar- Complex. One was a Figure 7. End scrapers and retouched flake (far right) showing gins of the artifact (Fig- fragmentary specimen working edges. ure 6, left column). Four

Autumn 2003 7 of the specimens have broader, u-shaped in 1854, the Assiniboine were described as Conclusions groove widths that approximate 1.5 cm in rubbing a heated hide with a pumice stone width. Another has a slight v-shaped or porous bone during tanning. The Osprey Beach site is the first Cody groove with a maximum width of 0.75 cm. End scrapers: The two end scrapers Complex site to be excavated that demon- Other sites with shaft abraders are found at the Osprey Beach Locality are strates a clear stratigraphy. Its content and MacHaffie, Claypool and Jurgens, and large flakes with modification along single context suggests the site is of at least Horner. edges (Figure 7). The smaller (Figure 7, regional and perhaps national importance. In addition, six awl/artifact edge center) of the two has heavily worn ridges, The MOR archeological program has abraders were found. These were likely perhaps indicative of heavy use, and is demonstrated that by 9,360 (± 60 B.P.), used to make bone/wood awls, or grind or Obsidian Cliff obsidian, while the larger probably during warm weather months, dull the edges of stone artifacts so that the (Figure 7, left) is from the Cougar Creek bands of Cody Complex peoples travelled sharp edges would not cut through the source in the Madison Valley. into the heart of Yellowstone country to hafting materials for the points and Cody Retouched flake: The one large flake hunt, gather, and make a wide variety of knives. These awl/edge abraders tend to tool (created as the byproduct of the man- tools, and that they were joined at Yellow- be irregular in outline, and consist of ufacture or refinement of another tool) has stone Lake by other peoples. While no amorphous sandstone cobbles with dis- slightly irregular flaking (shaping/sharp- bone is preserved in the site, blood residue continuous 3- to 5-mm grooves incised ening) along its shortest edge (Figure 7, analysis of the tools indicated that a variety onto flat cobble surfaces. The grooves gen- right). The obsidian from which this tool of mammalian species were exploited.

PROTECTING YELLOWSTONE’S ARCHEOLOGICAL SITES In the field of archeology, we always face the conflicting demands of education and preservation. New analyses and advances in our understanding of early people follow each important discovery of artifacts. The provenience of the discovery is often crucial to the new insights. Sharing this information widely, however, inevitably conflicts with our responsibility to preserve these resources as it advertises the park’s archeological sites and sometimes, directly or indirectly, results in illegal collecting. Last year, artifact thieves were incar- cerated and fined into the thousands of dollars for stealing artifacts within the park. As we continue our explo- ration of the park’s cultural resources, we are always mindful of striking the proper balance. We work closely with law enforcement and are pleased with their cooperative efforts to preserve and protect the nation’s archeological resources in the park. Visitors sometimes find sites and artifacts as they enjoy the park. They are encouraged to bring these finds to our attention, and we make every effort to provide those who do with information about what they found and what it means. —Dr. Ann Johnson, park archeologist

erally do not extend to the lateral margins was made is from Obsidian Cliff. While canids, sheep, rabbits, and deer of the artifacts. The distinction between Adze: An adze-like implement was were identified, no bison were present. It is these artifact types is blurry, as both broad also recovered. It is a rectangular stone not known that bison were present in the and long grooves can be found on the same slab that has heavy stepping and battering park at this early date. To date, we have no object with the shorter, narrower grooves. on one end, and a flat, unmodified surface evidence of fish being used. We have Finally, a 7.8-cm-long split pumice at the opposite end. Its lateral margins also found no evidence for season of use, but cobble had been utilized as an abrading consist of flat, unmodified surfaces. Thin- given the severity of the winters during implement (Figure 6, lower right). One ning of the artifact is suggested by two this post-glacial period, it is assumed that side is relatively flat, with rough, unmod- large flake scars on one side. The tool may this was a summer camp. ified surfaces, while the opposite exhibits have been used to split wood, bone, or While in the area around the lake, peo- an undulating surface with smoothed, pol- other soft materials. In addition, it could ple utilized obsidian from both Obsidian ished facets. Portions of its edges also have served as a heavy, hand-held chop- Cliff Plateau and Park Point to manufac- appear to have been worn smooth. Refer- ping tool. ture projectile points and specialized ences to the use of such artifacts occur in bifaces. Obsidian from sources such as the ethnographic literature. For example, Bear Gulch and Cougar Creek was proba-

8 Yellowstone Science bly brought in for tools during the late were seasonally adapted not only to the the High Plains. 2nd ed. New York: Acade- spring and early summer, and obsidian plains and intermountain basins as bison mic Press, Inc. from other sources were in use as well. In hunters, but also to upland/mountain envi- Frison, George C., and Lawrence C. Todd, addition, non-local cherts were used by rons, where a variety of mammalian 1987. The Horner Site: The Type Site of the Osprey Beach peoples. Only two pieces of species were available. The diverse blood Cody Cultural Complex. New York: Acade- obsidian were found during the excava- residue data indicate that the mic Press, Inc. tions at the Horner site; one was from mountains/plains cultural dichotomy, if it Moss, J. H., K. Bryan, G. W. Holmes, L. Sat- Obsidian Cliff Plateau, and the other from ever existed, was in fact breaking down by terthwaite Jr., H. P. Hansen, C. B. Schultz, an unknown source. Most of the stone at the time of the Osprey Beach occupation and W. D. Frankforter, 1953. Early Man in the Horner site indicated close ties to the 9,360 (± 60 B.P.). It appears, therefore, the Eden Valley. Museum Monographs No. Bighorn Mountains to the east, and sug- that early Precontact Period Native Amer- 6. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: University of Pennsylvania. gests minor contacts with the Yellowstone icans at Osprey Beach were versatile Park area by the people at the Horner site. hunter-gatherers who sustained them- Pierce, Kenneth L., Kenneth P. Cannon, and Pieces of locally-derived sandstone selves in many ways under the various nat- George M. Crothers, 1994. Archaeological were used as abrading tools to fashion ural resource circumstances they encoun- Implications of Changing Levels of Yellow- stone Lake, Yellowstone National Park, wood or bone tools. Indeed, the 11 sand- tered. Wyoming. Current Research in the Pleis- stone abrading tools represent the largest tocene 11:106–108. assemblage of such tools ever found at a Acknowledgements Cody Complex site. The type of grooves I would like to acknowledge the sub- present suggests that spear shafts and bone stantial support of the Yellowstone Park NPS PHOTO awls were being worked. The end scrapers Foundation for the 2002 Osprey Beach and hide abraders suggest that hides were Locality archeology project. Their gen- being tanned, possibly for shelters. The erosity has made a highly significant con- sharpening of awls implies that clothing tribution to the understanding of early was being prepared, as these tools are Native American settlement in Yellow- believed to be associated with manufac- stone National Park. The Teton County ture of clothing. Preservation Board is recognized for fund- As a result of the Osprey Beach inves- ing the 2002 blood residue analyses that tigations, we have a more complete pic- provided critical insights. John Albanese ture of human life in the park some 9,000 and Dr. Kenneth Pierce visited the site and years ago. The picture on page 2 is an provided important contributions through artist’s rendition of what the Osprey Beach their geological interpretations. Drs. Ann camp might have looked like. There are M. Johnson, Brian O.K. Reeves, and also archeological sites on six of the seven Leslie B. Davis are acknowledged for their islands in Yellowstone Lake, and one of considerable efforts in facilitation, coordi- these sites is assigned to the Cody Com- nation, and supervision. Finally, the par- plex. To date, there is no evidence for how ticipation of John Reynolds, a volunteer people would have gotten to the islands on the field project, in the review of this during the summer. paper is gratefully noted. Finally, in the past it was suggested Mack W. Shortt holds an M.A. in Archeol- that approximately 10,000 years ago, an Suggested readings: ogy from the University of Calgary. From ecological boundary separated intermoun- Davis, Leslie B., Stephen A. Aaberg, and James 1993 to 1998, he served as Project tain basin/plains-oriented cultural groups G. Schmitt, 1995. The Obsidian Cliff Plateau Archeologist for the Museum of the Rock- (people adapted to plains bison hunting Prehistoric Lithic Source, Yellowstone ies’ Glacier National Park Archeology lifeways) from other contemporaneous National Park, Wyoming. Selections from Program, and since 1996, he has held cultural groups that occupied adjacent the Division of Cultural Resources No. 6. that position for the Museum’s Yellow- foothill and mountain regions. The latter Rocky Mountain Region, National Park Ser- stone National Park Archeology Program. cultural groups were thought to be adapt- vice, Denver. He has also performed archeological ed to hunting and gathering in environs Frison, George C. 1997. The Foothill-Mountain work in the Canadian Rockies, Northern where a wider ranger of faunal and floral Late Paleoindian and Early Plains Archaic Plains, and northern boreal forests. Mack species could be exploited. Other studies, Chronology and Subsistence. Pages 85–104 lives in Calgary with his wife, Dinah, and his daughter, Amelia.Yellowstone is his however, suggest that by Cody Complex in Changing Perspectives of the Archaic on favorite place. times, the different adaptations to those the Northwest Plains and Rocky Mountains, ecological zones were breaking down. The M. L. Larson and J. E. Francis, eds. Vermil- Osprey Beach evidence supports the lion: University of South Dakota Press. hypothesis that Cody Complex peoples Frison, George C. 1991. Prehistoric Hunters of

Autumn 2003 9 A Volunteer’s Perspective, and Archeology 101

by John Reynolds and Ann Johnson

Yellowstone’s archeology program encountered a great deal of often uses a combination of professional downed timber, the result of the archeologists and volunteers. As one of 1988 fires. Clambering over this those volunteers, I worked at Osprey provided a good way to wake up Beach during the 2000 and 2002 field sea- the tired body for the rigors of the sons. The first season was abbreviated, but day. Once at the site, the archeol- the results were very promising, and the ogists began preparations for the program gained a Yellowstone Park Foun- day’s excavation and I set up my dation grant for more extensive work in own “work station.” As the unskilled

member of the

S P

N group, my job

S O

T was to care-

fully screen

L L A the soil excavated by the Mack Shortt and Kevin Thorsen establish profession- the grid. a corner of als. First, though, let’s describe that excavation: they excavate. The unit is then divided into four quadrants, or “quads” (NE, NW, SE, Getting Started and SW). The archeologists excavate one To ensure that no quad at a time and, using the line level, artifacts are missed take periodic measurements to ensure that during an excavation, each quad is excavated to a depth of 10 portant steps in and that the locations centimeters (four inches). Where the sur- g photographs illustrate im The followin ION, of each are precisely face of the ground is uneven, the amount of gation including SITE SELECT rcheological site investi recorded, archeolo- soil taken from the first level for each quad a TION, and CLOSING ATION, DOCUMENTA PREPARATION, EXCAV work gists divide sites into can vary greatly. After the first level is riting that follow the field ITE. The analysis and w excavation units, established, however, the volume of soil THE S digging, and create a r more important than the carefully measured for all subsequent levels is the same, are equally o ng, and why nd in the site, its meani to one meter square. because all are started at equal depths. record of what was fou n rtant. The examples show ite and artifacts are impo They utilize a tech- Excavation of each quad begins with a the s prey Beach in 2002. ring work conducted at Os nique involving square-end shovel; the soil that is removed were taken du at the site s for detailed excavation three tape meas- is placed into a bucket. Periodically, the Above, Preparation of re crew to clear the area ures, establishing archeologist stops to measure the depth of ed the efforts of the enti requir to precisely lay out two sides at a 90 the hole being dug to be sure that s/he has . Note the transit. It is used downed timber will take degree angle, and taken 10 centimeters and no more. As that vation of individual units a grid within which exca then using the depth is approached, the shovel is used to place. diagonal of the “shave” the soil to achieve the correct unit to produce a perfect square. Next, they depth. At times, a whisk broom and dust 2002; the work I will describe here. For 15 set metal spikes at the four corners of the pan are used to remove the last bit of soil days in 2002, our days began with a short unit and, using a line level (a small level in from a given quad. drive and then a hike of a mile or so, both a tube mounted on a string), establish the During this process, rocks are often along a low terrace above the shore and on spot from which they will measure the encountered. The archeologist must deter- the lakeshore itself. In both cases, we depth uniformly throughout the unit as mine if they are of interest; for instance,

10 Yellowstone Science grade, one-eighth inch screen. This ensured that even the smallest flakes would be collected, significantly enhanc- ing the take from the site. It also made the work much more labor-intensive. At Osprey Beach, we used rope to sus- pend the box and screen from a tripod made from downed timber, which was plentiful at the site. With the box hanging in this “swing,” my job was to shake it vig- orously to allow the soil to flow through the screen and onto a large tarp positioned under the tripod. When the soil is clean and sandy, it flows through the screen quickly, and the work is easy. More often, though, the soil is either full of clay or hard and cloddy. This makes for slow going, as the soil must be broken up to determine if it contains anything of value. g the work at differ- I am sometimes able to crumble the soil by f contiguous units, showin Excavation of a number o evin Thors- hand, but when it proves too hard for that jar is at the screen, while K ls in separate units. Visti K dif- (as it often does), smashing it against the ent leve nits. In the sandy soil, it is ves soil from one of the u side of the screen is a better solution. Soil en carefully remo as they dry. ight; they tend to collapse ficult to keep the walls stra containing lots of gravel or rocks poses a different problem, as stones that will not roughly two feet by two-and-a-half feet, fall through the screen have to be removed they may be the remnants of a hearth used and six inches deep, its bottom covered by hand. I scratched through, examined by for food preparation. If that is the case, the with heavy-duty screen. The standard size hand, and threw out tons of gravel at soil is meticulously removed from around screen for most archeological work is one- Osprey Beach. My fingers were scarred the rocks (whisk broom and dust pan are quarter inch, which is what we used in our pretty badly by the end of the project, and brought into play again). The rocks are left work during 2000. For the more lengthy I believe that my fingerprints were at least in place, and then they are mapped and excavation in 2002, we used a much finer temporarily modified. photographed to record The tarp beneath the tripod collects the their position, both later- soil, and also pro- ally and in depth below tects the vegeta- the surface. This slows tion beneath it the excavation, but from damage. The enriches the collection tripod is easily of information. If exca- moved by one per- vation continues in such son, so that the soil a unit, these rocks have being processed to be removed, and may can be spread over or may not be collected different parts of the for further analysis. tarp. By bringing the tripod’s legs Screening closer together, it After the archeolo- was also possible to gist has finished sifting raise the height of through the soil, s/he the box above the places it in a bucket to growing pile of be literally “screened” screened soil. Because of its remote loc for more material that ation, visitors to the Ospr Because much of quent. Here, M ey Beach site were infre- merits collection. To ack Shortt describes the the time I screen for the Y work to an interested grou accomplish this, the ellowstone Park Foundatio p from more than one arche- n who made the trek. The bucket is emptied into the 2002 excavation. YPF sponsored ologist, I must keep a wooden box of close tabs on whose

Autumn 2003 11 Top left, Meticulous notes are kept for each step of the excavation process. Here, Kevin Thorsen and Doug Mitchell record information in their log books while Mack Shortt prepares to photograph this stage of the work. Middle left, When stones thought to be cultural in origin are uncov- ered, their precise location is recorded to assist subsequent analysis of the individual unit and of the overall site. Bottom left, Kevin Thorsen carefully uses a whisk broom to remove soil from around a collection of stones believed to have been part of a hearth used by early peoples. Each stone’s location is recorded before it is removed to allow further excavation. soil is in the screen and where it came wall is created by taking measurements of had to be carried—it was the climbing from within the unit to ensure that the each change in soil color or type. Multiple over downed timber with a bucket in each material I collect goes to the right one so photographs are also taken, always using a hand. When many units are contiguous, s/he can connect the collection to the cor- tarp to shade the wall to ensue proper light- such as at the Osprey Beach site, little rect unit, level, and quad. backfilling can be done This is key, as evaluation until excavation is com- of the excavation strategy plete; for us, it took more goes on constantly; deci- than a day. This is back- sions about whether to go breaking work, even for deeper in a given unit, to the younger fellows. expand the unit laterally in After the backfilling one direction or another, or is complete, we try to to open another unit that it replace the original sur- is not contiguous to exist- face vegetation, even ing ones are based on the watering it to assist its amount and type of materi- recovery. Our goal is to al found at each level and return the site, as closely quad during the excava- as we can, to its original tion. state. At Osprey Beach, In addition to the tripod this meant even hauling and tarp, my “work sta- downed timber back to tion” includes my trusted the areas we had cleared. dustpan, in which I store the material of ing. Then the final stage of work begins: While working on this project, I value collected during the screening backfilling. At this point, all the soil taken engaged the crew in an effort to develop a process. My work is physically difficult, from a unit or units is returned to the pit. If quantitative measure of our work. We cal- and my direct rewards are few. I usually the screening has taken place directly adja- culated that in 2002 alone, we removed find only flakes, as the folks excavating cent to the pit, everyone may grab a shov- from the earth, one bucket at a time, 100 have extremely sharp eyes and collect the el and begin to tools directly. Nonetheless, every day or pitch the soil two I will spot a fragment of projectile directly back into point or other tool, and have found a com- it. The more complete point a couple of times. I also have to mon method, how- be alert for fragments of rock that may ever, is to use have been fire-broken, as this can be buckets, as the pits another indication of food preparation. All are often several of these finds are important, as they help yards from the unravel the puzzle of who was here, when screening area. they were here, and what they did. What made things more difficult at Finishing Up Osprey Beach was When the excavation in a particular not just the dis- area is complete, a detailed profile of one tance that the soil

12 Yellowstone Science Top right, John Albanese, an experienced geoarcheologist (geologist with a long-term interest in archeology), visited the Osprey Beach site and provided an analysis of the origin and distribution of the site’s stratigraphy. Middle right, After all phases of the excavation are completed, an effort is made to return the site to its original state. The labor-intensive process of backfilling is illustrated here as John Reynolds returns a bucket of soil to the excavated unit.

tons of soil. All of this was returned to the ther our lunches nor we would be blown equivalent of hazardous duty pay. earth, one bucket at a time—meaning that away, so we were all safe. When I began Because of the discoveries noted in this at this site alone, we moved 200 tons of volunteering with the archeology program, article, as well as the fantastic people on soil by hand over the course of 15 days. I never thought I might qualify for the the project (especially park archeologist For the most part, the Ann Johnson), this was weather was great during another wonderful experi- this project, with clear-to- ence in Yellowstone, the partly cloudy skies, mild nation’s gift to itself and the temperatures, and always people of the world. I con- a breeze off the lake. On sider myself very lucky to several days it was more have participated in this than a breeze, and gale effort and to have been warnings were posted at associated with such fine least once. On that day, a people. It was exhilarating, large tree fell in the mid- fascinating, and rewarding, dle of our excavations, a but at the end of every day few yards from where we my body reminded me that were eating lunch. Fortu- it was never easy. nately, the wind had driv- en us to take our lunch down into the pits so nei-

John Reynolds (“A Volunteer’s Perspective”) has volunteered Ann Johnson, a Montana native, earned a Ph.D. in anthropolo- with archeologist Ann Johnson for the last five years. He holds gy from the University of Missouri at Columbia. Her areas of a B.S. from the University of Kentucky and an M.A. in econom- interest are the ics from the University of Maryland. Retired from the Central northern plains Intelligence Agency, he con- and adjacent tinues to work for that organi- montane areas, zation as a consultant while the past 3,000 spending his summers in Yel- years, and pre- lowstone. In addition to the historic, ceram- work noted in this report, ic-using cul- John has worked on extend- tures. Ann has ed backcountry archeology worked for the projects on the Yellowstone National Park River, Hellroaring Creek, and Service for 26 recently on the Southeast years, but work- Arm of Yellowstone Lake. ing with Yellow- When not volunteering in the stone archeolo- park, he lives in northern Vir- gy and staff has NPS PHOTO ginia near his two daughters been her best and son-in-law. job. NPS PHOTO

Autumn 2003 13 Red Sowash and the Round Prairie Saloon

by Bob Flather

Z. R. Sowash’s “Round Prairie Hotel,” photographed in 1884 by F. J. Haynes near the Cooke City road and Soda Butte Creek, was once thought to have been out- side the park. In 1886, however, it was found to be three miles inside the park, leading to its removal in 1887. ALL PHOTOS COURTESY HAYNES FOUNDATION COLLECTION, MONTANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY HISTORICAL COLLECTION, MONTANA FOUNDATION HAYNES COURTESY ALL PHOTOS

“I took a trip up to Cook[sic] City on Dale Paulson of Roseburg, Oregon, dis- the saloon that clearly shows the saloon, a 17 inst and returned on the 18th. There is covered, the saloon had been in a small stable to the north, a corral to the northeast a man running a Saloon about nine miles meadow, currently bisected by the North- and most importantly, what is unquestion- this side of Cook[sic] at a place called east Entrance road, about 0.1 mile west of ably Barronette Peak in the background.4 Round Prairie,” reported Yellowstone’s the Barronette Peak pullout. A trip to the location today, to line up the Assistant Superintendent Cannon to Discoveries in Yellowstone’s archives still-existing features observed in Haynes’s Superintendent Conger on June 19, 1884.l have revealed that originally, “Round photo, indicates that the front of the saloon A month later, F. J. Haynes took a photo of Prairie” was the meadow just north of the must have bordered quite closely, if not this saloon, which he described as “Round Barronette pullout, through which the first protruded into, the current Northeast Prairie Hotel (Saloon) Soda Butte Valley wagon road to Cooke City traveled, as is Entrance road (as can be observed today near Cooke City, Mt.”2 There was confu- evident today. Perhaps the earliest refer- by examining the truncated rectangular sion over the saloon’s location until late ence to this Round Prairie is found in depression in the ground about 1/3 of the May 2000, when acquaintances of this Superintendent Norris’s 1881 Annual way west across the meadow along the writer, who visit the park every spring, Report, where Captain Stanton’s report on south edge of the current road). found the exact spot. The problem was road distances in the park notes that it is The existence of this saloon was made with the words “Round Prairie,” as over 3.0 miles from Trout Lake to Round known to the Secretary of the Interior in a the past 50–60 years, at least, “Round Prairie.3 All the confusion could have been letter from Superintendent Carpenter dated Prairie” has referred to the large meadow avoided if anyone had checked into November 13, 1884, in which Carpenter surrounding the junction of Pebble and Haynes’s photos, because he took an addi- noted that “about 8 miles further up Soda Soda Butte Creeks. However, as Elva and tional picture from above and to the rear of Butte Creek, I found a man with a small

14 Yellowstone Science house and stable keeping a stopping place retary of the Interior to Toole, the former bought Wakefield’s argument that the and Station.”5 Carpenter was inclined to refers to Toole’s letter of January 5 for- building was needed in winter by the mail let Sowash stay, as the boundary had not warding Sowash’s request, which the Sec- carriers as a refuge in case of difficult been surveyed. Then, in an August 21, retary denied.10 The Secretary’s decision weather conditions. The daily patrol logs 1885, letter to Superintendent Wear, Z. R. was undoubtedly strongly influenced by a of the U.S. Army’s Soda Butte patrol sta- Sowash, the saloonkeeper, stated that he January 15, 1887, letter from Captain Har- tion include the following entry: “Decem- had “been located at a point on the Cooke ris recommending that the Secretary not ber 7, 1895: patrol camped at Red’s City road for the past two years. Have been approve the lease sought by Sowash as Sauvages cabin.”14 Patrols were also made keeping a mail station and road house.”6 “Mr. Sowash’s place is perhaps as well to “Red’s cabin on Cooke City road” on Sowash was requesting permission to kept as any of its kind, but it is nothing June 9, 1905, January 8, 1908 and Febru- remain, as it was still not clear whether or more than a liquor saloon and there is no ary 10, 1908.15 Sowash was known as Red, not he was within the park’s boundaries question as to its being detrimental to the and the significance of the surname (for no survey had been made). Sauvage will soon be discussed. Wear forwarded this request to the The logs frequently mention the Secretary of the Interior recom- round-trip distance the patrols cov- mending approval. Sowash also ered, and in the above instances, the called attention to a letter written to distance was recorded as 15 miles. Wear by George Wakefield, the It is roughly seven miles from the first person to have been awarded Soda Butte patrol station to the the contract for carrying mail from original Round Prairie. By the early Mammoth Hot Springs to Cooke 1900s, the regular route to Cooke City, on the same date. Wakefield City traveled along the north side stated that the station kept by of Soda Butte Creek, except the Sowash was necessary for getting mail carriers may have kept to the the mail to Cooke City in the win- original route on the south side until ter.7 the coming of the auto. From that It is interesting to speculate on time on, the saloon would have Wakefield’s possible role in the been “off the beaten path,” as autos building of the saloon, for in a let- took the north side, but may have ter to the Secretary of the Interior survived in deteriorating condition dated December 16, 1883, Wake- until it necessarily had to be field noted that he, as mail contrac- removed to make way for the cur- tor, had already built one mail sta- rent road in 1934. tion on the East Fork of the Yel- Who was Red Sowash? A pic- lowstone—probably the log cabin ture of the man appears in Doris by Soda Butte cone that served the Whithorn’s book on Gardiner, Jar- mail carriers until 1938 when all dine, and Crevasse, Montana.16 A structures at Soda Butte were Mr. Richard Soash of Wichita, removed—and would need to build F. J. Haynes photo showing the saloon (arrow), a sta- Kansas, has been researching the two more stations on the route next ble to the north, a corral to the northeast, and Bar- family history, and published some season.8 Had he actually “jumped ronette Peak in the background. of his findings on the Internet.17 It the gun” by a year in regard to begins with a Johannes H. Sauvage Sowash’s Saloon? Much was done in those interests of the Park.”11 Thus, the stage was (see previous paragraph) and his wife days under the theory that it was better to set for Harris’s letter to Sowash on May 9, immigrating from Alsace-Lorraine to the beg forgiveness than ask permission, espe- 1887, advising the latter he would have to U. S. in 1738. They settled and had sever- cially where structures were concerned. In leave by June 30 of that year.12 According al children, of which one son American- any case, the situation remained in limbo to Harris’s 1887 Annual Report, the order ized his name to Sowash. Subsequently, until Captain Harris arrived in August was promptly obeyed.13 some family members used the spelling 1886. While the basis for Harris’s decision What happened to the saloon? Ordi- Soash. In a letter to this writer, Mr. Soash is unknown, he determined that the Saloon narily in those days, the structure would advised that he believes Z. R. Sowash was was inside the park, and verbally advised have been destroyed—burnt to the ground, one of 11 children of a Jacob Sowash, that Sowash sometime in the fall that he would most likely. However, there is circumstan- he was known as Jackwell or Joseph, and have to leave come spring.9 Sowash then tial evidence that the saloon may have sur- that he was listed in the 1870 census of asked the help of Congressman J. K. Toole vived, condition unknown, until at least Washoe County, Nevada, as being a resi- of Montana in seeking a lease, for in a let- February 10, 1908. This speculation dent of that county.18 The 1880 census of ter dated January 25, 1887, from the Sec- makes sense in that Harris may have Meagher County, Montana, lists a Joseph

Autumn 2003 15 Sowash, age 33, and a William Sowash, NPS PHOTO age 23, both born in Indiana, apparently with the same parents, engaged in mining activity in that county. By the early 1880s, Sowash’s mining activities had moved to the Cooke City area, where on September 26, 1883, he and several others signed a notarized claim as being the locators.19 He signed as Zack Sowash. Shortly, on Sep- tember 23, 1884, he sold his interest in a mining claim, giving his residence as Cooke City, while when he sold his interest in the Big Blue & Richmond mines on July 13, 1885, he listed his residence as Round Prairie, Wyoming Territory.20 In the 1900 Park County, Montana, census, a Zacarath R. Sowash is listed, age 53, born in Indiana, a saloonkeeper but unemployed for the past six months and owner of a Site of Red Sowash’s saloon as it appears today. home in Horr, Montana. The county records show no evidence of this owner- 7George Wakefield to Superintendent Wear, 15Bound volume 181 and Letter Box 90, Soda ship, but the county clerk noted to me that August 21, 1885, microfilm M-62 Roll 3 of Butte Station Reports, NAYNP. many individuals did not register their 6, MTHS. 16Doris Whithorn, Photo History of Gardiner, ownership in those days. It is doubtful that 8George Wakefield to Secretary of the Interior, Jardine, and Crevasse. Livingston, Montana: Sowash owned a home in Horr or any- December 16, 1883, 48th US Congress, 1st Park County News. where else, for county mining records Session, Sen. Ex. Doc. 47, Serial Set 2162, 17Web site, [email protected]. indicate that he lived in Gardiner, Mon- Government Publications section, Universi- 18Richard L. Soash to Robert Flather, undated tana, in 1899 and in Jardine in 1901. No ty of California at Santa Barbara library. letter. further information has come to light 9Acting Superintendent Captain Moses Harris, 19 except that no record exists in the Park Superintendent’s Annual Report, August 20, New World Mining District, Folder 2 of 2, p. County Clerk’s Office of a Z. R. Sowash 1887, p. 5, YNP library. 254, Accession number 96-132, NAYNP. 20 having died in Park County, Montana. 10Acting Secretary of Interior Muldrow to Hon. Mining Claim Records, Books 9-143 and 9- As a final aside, the small, white sign J. K. Toole, January 25, 1887, Document 196, Park County County Clerk’s Office, on the front of the saloon below the larger 123, NAYNP. Livingston, Montana. sign was hung apparently by Haynes, as it 11Captain Harris to Secretary of the Interior, NPS PHOTO reads in part “Prof. F. J. Haynes, national January 15, 1887, Letters sent Box 213, v1, park views.” p. 73, NAYNP. 12Captain Harris to Z. R. Sowash, May 9, 1887; References Letters sent Box 214, v2, p. 18, NAYNP. 1Document 1349, National Archives, Yellow- 13Acting Superintendent Captain Moses Harris, stone National Park (hereafter NAYNP). Superintendent’s Annual Report, August 20, 1887, p. 5, YNP library. 2F. J. Haynes, Photo #1412, Montana Historical Society, Helena, Montana (hereafter 14Letter Box 93, Monthly Logs, Soda Butte Sta- MTHS). tion, NAYNP. 3Superintendent Philetus Norris, Annual Report of the Superintendent, December 1, 1881, p. 66, Yellowstone National Park Bob Flather has worked for the National Park Ser- library (hereafter YNP library). vice seasonally at Yellowstone since 1971, vari- ously as a fire guard, ranger, fire researcher, and 4 F. J. Haynes, Photo #1410, MTHS. volunteer. The Lamar Valley is his favorite part of 5Superintendent Carpenter to Secretary of Inte- the park, which is what led him to his investiga- rior, November 13, 1884, microfilm M-62 tion of Red Sowash. He has also worked at Gulf Roll 2 of 6, MTHS. Islands and Point Reyes National Seashores. When away from Yellowstone, Bob lives in Santa 6Z. R. Sowash to Superintendent Wear, August 21, 1885, microfilm M-62 Roll 3 of 6, Barbara, California. He is 78 years old and hopes MTHS. he has a few more good years left in him in Yel- lowstone.

16 Yellowstone Science The Froth and the Fury

Keynote speech delivered by Theodore Roosevelt IV on the occasion of the Roosevelt Arch centennial, Yellowstone National Park August 25, 2003 NPS PHOTO NPS ARCHIVES

Left, President Theodore Roosevelt speaks at the dedication of the Roosevelt Arch, April 25, 1903. Right, Theodore Roosevelt IV delivers the keynote speech at the Arch’s re-dedication, August 25, 2003.

Theodore Roosevelt IV is a Managing Director at Lehman Trout Unlimited, on the Governing Council of The Wilderness Brothers, and a member of the firm’s senior client coverage group. Society, and is a Director of the University of Wyoming’s Institute Upon graduating from Harvard in 1965 with a B.A., Mr. Roo- for Environment and Natural Resources. He was appointed by sevelt joined the Navy as an officer in Underwater Demolition Governor Pataki to the New York State Recreation and Historic Team Eleven. Following his active duty, he joined the Department Preservation Commission for the City of New York and the Hud- of State as a Foreign Service Officer. He initially served in Wash- son River Park Trust. In addition, he is a member of the Council ington, D.C., and was subsequently assigned to Ouagadougou, on Foreign Relations, a Governor of the Foreign Policy Associa- Upper Volta, West Africa (now Burkina Faso). In 1970, Mr. tion, and a frequent lecturer on history and economics at New Roosevelt took a special leave of absence from the Department of York University. As a leader in the environmental movement, and State to attend Harvard Business School, where he received his for his expertise in foreign policy issues, Mr. Roosevelt is frequent- M.B.A.. Upon his 1972 graduation, he was offered a White ly asked to testify before Congressional Committees. He recently House Fellowship, which he declined to join Lehman Brothers. served on a Congressional Chartered Committee to evaluate the Mr. Roosevelt is an active conservationist. He is the former United States’ role in multilateral institutions, and also served on Chairman of the League of Conservation Voters; a Trustee of the a committee to review U.S. relations with Iran. American Museum of Natural History; and Chair of the Pew He and his wife, Constance, live in Brooklyn Heights, New Center on Global Climate Change. He is also on the board of York.

Autumn 2003 17 Thank you for your welcome and for this future claim almost all of our attention, Most commentators on Leopold’s land chance to visit with you. It is enormous this pause to invoke the past restores a ethic will acknowledge that it obliges us to fun to be here...I think. sense of continuity, of intergenerational honor ecological process. I believe, and Well, it would be fun if it weren’t for responsibility, pride and most importantly, this is discussed less often, that a land ethic “ the peculiar stomp, stomp, stomping that I humility. also obliges us to honor the process in the hear overhead. Undoubtedly, TR fulmi- Pride because Yellowstone was a revo- social contract: to ensure that the steps we nating in Heaven, pacing as he usually did lutionary concept when it was created in take toward the goal don’t so damage when he wrote a speech, and now just itch- 1872. No other nation had ever established human relationships that we fail to arrive ing to put his words in my mouth. a national park. But it took another two at the goal. Fulmination is probably not a heaven- decades for Congress to pass the neces- Two commentators, Annie Booth and ly activity, but I doubt even the lord sary legislation to protect the park from Winifred Kessler, examined how the spot- almighty would want to come between TR poachers and others who wanted to use it ted owl controversy in the Pacific North- and a podium. As Alice Roosevelt once for selfish purposes. Humility because we, west might have played itself out if the said of her father: main actors had been ‘He wants to be NPS PHOTO truly informed by the bride at every Leopold’s land ethic. wedding and the Back in 1998, in an corpse at every essay they coau- funeral.’ thored in the Wildlife Facing this Society Bulletin, they audience, I’m wrote: ‘Having rec- feeling a little ognized that com- like the corpse at plexity is the norm in my own funeral: ecology, profession- local, regional, als would have recog- and maybe some nized that this was national environ- not a simple biologi- mental groups on cal problem requiring the one hand; the a technical fix. Pre- members of the sumably a full array Bush Adminis- of social scientists, tration and the economists, ecolo- residents of our gists, policy scien- gateway commu- tists, and others nities on the would have been other hand; our enlisted from the overworked, The crowd gathers in anticipation of the arch centennial celebration, start. Those connect- underpaid, and August 25, 2003. ed to the problem sorely belea- would have been guered National Park Service rangers; as shareholders, are not managing our her- engaged early on to find common grounds maybe some ranchers, and, then, perhaps a itage properly. The chronic underfunding and search for alternative solutions…Hav- few innocent bystanders—or tourists— of our national parks is tragic. The cumu- ing received a natural resources education who might want to duck for cover during lative maintenance backlog, depending on that included humanistic as well as scien- the course of this speech. what you count, is anywhere between tific values, leaders would have been more It always bemuses me that humanity $6–10 billion. A lot of money, on the one perceptive and empathetic toward the never tires of these events: commemora- hand, but not even petty change in our diverse views that comprised the spotted tions of dates on a calendar. We arrive at a nation’s budget. owl dispute.’ certain number on a calendar, a certain dis- How do we find ourselves in this situ- The authors of this essay opined that if tance in time from the original event, and ation? I believe this chronic underfunding a land ethic had been truly imbibed by we celebrate. of our national parks is part of a larger fail- those one presumes to be entrusted with it In reality, this often repeated look back ure—the lack of an ethical relationship that maybe the spotted owl controversy to our origins is a profoundly necessary with the land, the duty to which another might not have happened at all. Yet, in the emotional and intellectual gesture: that of ‘ancestor,’ Aldo Leopold, summoned us. five years since they wrote that essay, have invocation, of calling upon the wisdom of And to which this gateway implicitly we managed to avert any of the big con- our ancestors in our present day struggles. invites us, even if a ‘land ethic’ was not yet troversies? Have we healed any of the rifts In a society where the present and articulated when it was built. caused by the past controversies?

18 Yellowstone Science NPS PHOTO Honoring a land ethic, ter is a good horse- in my view, should nec- woman; Jill is not. essarily involve us in a She’s a good tango respectful dialogue with dancer. the communities who Her sister tells me actually live on the land that in the beginning and for whom ‘place’ is of the trip, their out- neither an abstraction, a fitter, Jack Rich, way station, or a career regarded Jill with move. A respectful dia- considerable alarm. logue with rural commu- The last New Yorker nities means that we of her type whom he regard them as equal part- had taken into ners, not as colonial vas- wilderness apparent- sals. ly had a heart attack And, here, we come and was helicoptered to the crux of the resource back to civilization, issues that confound us As protestors from the Buffalo Field Campaign stood on a hill above him, where they soon dis- today—or, I should prob- Roosevelt expressed his belief that by embracing the “language of division,” covered he actually ably say, ‘that confront we “move farther and farther from a society that embraces a land ethic and is had an anxiety attack us.’ in turn improved by it.” brought on by too I have begun to won- much peace and der if our battles with one another—some- ethic and is in turn improved by it. quiet. Nothing rattles a New Yorker quite times characterized as ‘cultural warfare’— And, yet, in the midst of hard-pressed, like peace and quiet. aren’t more about undoing the opposition angry rural communities and sick ecosys- At the end of her trip into wilderness, than achieving positive benefits for the tems, American citizens are coming Jill said that roads never looked so good, resource or for rural communities. together quietly—on the q.t., as it were— and her next vacation would be in Europe. We have settled into painful and to build consensus and forge solutions. So, you can imagine my surprise when entrenched oppositions in which we now They are engaging in the disciplined, she announced last year that she planned seem to delight: urban versus rural; gate- unglamorous, unheralded, and arduous on spending her vacation taking a range- way communities versus national stake- work of a democracy. land management course at the University holders; the interior west versus the coasts; As Aldo Leopold wrote: ‘One of the of Wyoming that required she live on a the right versus the left; the self-righteous curious evidences that conservation pro- working ranch. I thought she had lost her versus the sanctimonious; the Princes of grams are losing their grip is that they have mind and braced myself for a second Darkness versus Nature’s Anointed Ones. seldom resorted to self government as a Sagebrush Rebellion. As we practice the language of divi- cure for land abuse. We who are “about to The ranchers in question, Jake and sion and pressure politics, we begin to die” unless democracy can mend its land Kate, consider themselves traditional, as believe that economies of truth are true use have not tried democracy as a possible opposed to progressive, ranchers. They enough and that the end justifies any answer to our problem.’ live where most ranchers do today— means whatsoever. So, I would like to pause in my between a rock and hard place. We begin to believe that some of us polemic to tell a story about two such On Jill’s first ride out onto the ranch, wear the mantle of protectors—whether of Americans who decided to talk instead of Jake turned to her to ask: ‘Who are you local communities and democracy, or of demonizing one another. Telling stories, talking to?’ Perplexed, she replied: ‘The inviolate nature—while the unclean rest of after all, is what we do in Yellowstone. dogs, of course.’ Jake shrugged. Most us are the exploiters. Both sides poison the Usually in a circle around a campfire. TR ranchers don’t spend a lot of time chatting process: both sides play by the rules that was known for campfire tales and particu- up their sheep dogs. suit them, use tactics and language to larly hair-raising ghost stories! And this The next day, Jake suggested that inflame their own constituencies, and treat campfire tale might appeal to him; while it maybe Jill shouldn’t go out on horseback. anyone with a different point of view as is not a ghost story, it is an east meets west (We can only wonder why.) He had to get the enemy. and vice versa story. some antibiotics to a cow blinded by an Then we call our political stalemates A friend of mine—let’s call her Jill— infection, and so he loaded up his own by names like ‘analysis paralysis’—as is an ardent conservationist, but she freely horse and the dogs into the horse trailer, though our failures are more about the admits to having very little interest in and together with Jill drove out to a hilltop structure of thought than the exercise of a spending any time actually in nature. Her that was in the vicinity of the blinded cow. civic conscience. And we move farther and sister once challenged her to a pack trip He left one dog in the cab of the van and farther from a society that embraces a land into the Bob Marshall Wilderness. Her sis- told Jill that she could wait up on the hill

Autumn 2003 19 and watch through the binoculars. What ences, competencies, points of view. But fact, the American people occupy no polit- he didn’t tell her was that he was leaving there is much those vignettes don’t tell ical position so well, in my opinion, as behind the two troublemakers—her and you—Jill knew how angry ranchers were what some are beginning to call the ‘radi- the dog, Bella. before she left on her trip and was actual- cal center.’ For me, the radical center best models what the practice of a land ethic might mean on the ground and in our culture. The question the radical center poses for the rest In order to learn about the radical center, I have spoken with the members of of us is: “How can we develop a land ethic if our The Quivira Coalition in the Southwest, who include Bill McDonald, a rancher people are lost from the land?” with the Malpai Borderlands Group; with ranchers such as the O’Keefe family and the Hatfields in the Northwest; and, of Jill described what she saw through the ly pale with fear on her last day in the course, I continue to read Dan Kemmis’s binoculars in her own peculiar terms. She office. Despite that, because Jill believes books and submit to his tutelage. I have said it was the perfect tango, where that the war with the west is serving other talked to many many more people than improvisation looks choreographed. Jake purposes than protecting the resource, she these—our culture is rich in practioners of lassoed the rear leg of the cow and tied the wanted to find out the truth for herself, on this unacknowledged new political move- other end of the rope to his saddle horn. the ground. ment. All in all, I can say that I find their The horse worked calmly. From her van- Those vignettes didn’t tell you that decency, thoughtfulness, and commitment tage point, Jill watched its shoulder mus- Jake and Kate had supported wilderness staggering and inspiring. cles straining to pull against the cow’s designation on forest service allotments in I also admire the willingness of the efforts to escape. And then, in Jill’s words, their neck of the woods in order to, in their members of the American Wildlife Con- ‘before I knew it, Jake just flipped that cow words, ‘save a real pretty place.’ Nor did servation Partners, who hold widely diver- over on its side. My gosh, how does any- those vignettes tell you that the same gent views, to meet and find common one DO that?’ groups who shook hands with Jake and ground. Or, right here, the Greater Yel- When the job was done, Jake seemed Kate and praised their foresight many lowstone Coalition. While these groups do to disappear around another part of the hill years ago eventually grew churlish about not sign onto the radical center ideas, that on another errand. Since everything about the sight of cows in wilderness and pressed I know of, they work toward similar goals. ranching seemed to Jill to take a very long the Forest Service to unfortunate and puni- The radical center is committed to the time, she expected to wait. She returned to tive and inaccurate readings of the Con- idea that ‘keeping people on the landscape the van, wherein the dog, Bella, was rais- gressional Grazing Guidelines as they is crucial to the health of that landscape ing a raucous howl. She thought: ‘Well, affected Jake and Kate. and that the status quo is unacceptable.’ Jake may know a lot about cows, but the Both sides of this encounter brought As one rancher, Karl Ohs, put it: ‘Collab- poor dog shouldn’t be left in that hot van. trepidation, prejudice, and suspicion to the oration is a sensitive process. You can’t I’ll just let her out, and we can sit in the table. They also brought grit, determina- ram it down people’s throats. But when it’s shade.’ Upon her release, Bella paused for tion, and a very necessary sense of humor. done well, there’s a trust that develops a nanosecond to look up at her foolish res- Well, eventually, Jill returned to New that’s good for all society.’ And another cuer. Then, before Jill knew it, the dog was York. She’s still not a horsewoman. As she rancher, Doc Hatfield, put it this way: long gone and out of sight. says, she loves ranchers, but doesn’t much ‘Consensus building is not kind and gen- Jill figured she was in big trouble with like ranches. After her return, she said to tle. Consensus is agreeing not to agree on Jake. me: a lot of things, but working together on the Sometime later, Jake appeared, riding ‘Ranchers have maybe two generations things you can agree on.’ And then, a up the hill. All the dogs, including the left on the American landscape, if that. forester describes the lack of funding for gleeful Bella, followed. Jake was laugh- They are TR’s roughriders. Just as our collaborative endeavors: ‘There’s more ing. He said: ‘What happened? Bella make ecosystems lose if we lose wolves and money for spear-throwers than peace- you think she was in there dying?’ Jill said grizzlies, our nation loses if we lose rural makers. There is a conflict industry out she thought that Bella had taken off for people. What are you prepared to do about there, which seems to be well-served by Idaho after her release and was gone for it?’ deadlock.’ good. Jake explained that Bella could have Jill, Kate and Jake had set an example The question the radical center poses found him in Idaho if he had gone that far. for me that represents the best in the for the rest of us is: ‘How can we develop In these hopefully somewhat humor- American people. We are, after all, essen- a land ethic if our people are lost from the ous vignettes about Jill and Jake, I’ve tried tially pragmatic and down to earth, with a land?’ to convey the differences between them: bias toward action and problem solving, Well, let me finally answer the ques- their personal geography, their life experi- and an inherent respect for differences. In tion that this speech seems to beg and that

20 Yellowstone Science is on everyone’s mind. What do I think in the market place. After all, less pollution conservative—need to turn from the lan- about snowmobiles in Yellowstone? and noise would be good for all of our guage of division, which is in essence Ridiculous that it all comes down to this, public and private lands, and public rela- propaganda. Propaganda has never but this is where we find ourselves. tions is as much a part of business as cap- brought the human race anything more I heartily dislike snowmobiles in Yel- ital investment. than sorrow. As Aldo Leopold wrote, lowstone. But even more than I dislike The Bush Administration could finally ‘instead of building roads into lovely coun- snowmobiles in Yellowstone, I dislike the understand that, no, where our national try, we need to build receptivity into the way we got to this point and where we are parks are concerned, it is not ‘in the still unlovely human mind.’ going. We have all laid the groundwork in tourism business;’ our national parks are This is a splendid gate, a splendid arch. divisiveness for more divisiveness to fol- not amusement rides. But, when all is said and done, it is like low. Our parks carry meaning in law, in his- those numbers on the calendar that we like What do I think should have hap- tory, and in the hearts of the American to celebrate, meaningless in itself until we pened? public that far exceeds this year’s vaca- bring meaning to it. Throughout many cul- Instead of millions of dollars in Amer- tion. The Secretary of the Interior is, or tures, crossroads and gateways signal us to ican charitable donations to environmental should be, the defender of that public trust. pause: they are the place where we gather groups spent in the courts or in public rela- This Administration would realize that up our one more chance for rectification: tions campaigns that utilize nothing so as tempting as it is to play to the often- rectification with our community, our cul- much as the language of division, I think it would have been far better to look at how that money might have been used to build sustainable economies and good will in the In terms of our use of the natural world, I gateway communities which are so essen- believe that we enter into a covenant not only tial to the parks. For instance, perhaps it is possible to endow positions in Yellow- with God, our nation, and our neighbors, but stone that the current Superintendent, Suzanne Lewis, thinks would be useful in with future generations—what Theodore Roo- preventing another controversy like this sevelt described as “the number within the one. Positions such as a full time econo- mist for Yellowstone who could translate womb of time, compared to which those now macro trends into trends for the park and the surrounding communities; a commu- alive form but an insignificant fraction.” nity outreach person in the interpretation area; and a conflict facilitator. Environ- mental groups could also invest green, in legitimate grievances of the west against ture, with our ancestors, and our god. order to ensure that the proper incentives environmental organizations, its current The environmental community is very for industry to do the right thing are actu- policies are doing nothing so much as pre- fond of the word stewardship. But I have a ally in the marketplace. In addition, they pare the next backlash against fragile com- problem with it. It seems to leave us alone and their funders could look into securing munities. The Administration would real- with our responsibilities, to shoulder them low interest loans so that the communities ize that it is in those communities’ best as best we can and at whatever personal could make the weighty investments in interests to translate the experiences of the cost. I would like to resurrect a concept, snow coaches, an investment they should west into the language of the east, and vice standing here before this gateway, from only make if they have assurances that versa; to foster an understanding between the Old Testament—covenant. Covenant snow coaches won’t be litigated off the regions so that we might authentically conveys a sense of mutuality, that we have park. undertake restoring rural communities and mutual obligations to one another. Instead of millions of dollars in share- failing ecosystems. In terms of our use of the natural holder earnings spent in litigation, the The American people could under- world, I believe that we enter into a snowmobile industry could get off its col- stand that the empty places in our hearts covenant not only with God, our nation, lective rear end and get the next generation and lives are not filled by more mania, and our neighbors, but with future genera- of snowmobiles, those beyond the current more activity, and more consumption. That tions—what Theodore Roosevelt 4-stroke, off the drawing boards. They we have obligations to one another and to described as ‘the number within the womb could embrace their civic obligation to the natural world to be less heedless and of time, compared to which those now honor the spirit of our national parks and more observant, to be less willing to fol- alive form but an insignificant fraction.’ I not just make a buck off them. In doing so low and more willing to lead, to give up believe that the American people, who are they might find that the triple bottom the ease of rancor and blame and take up so blessed with the bounty of this land, can line—the social, environmental and eco- the difficulties of listening and learning. find the good will and good sense to honor nomic bottom lines—yields them an edge And both sides—environmental and that covenant.”

Autumn 2003 21 Seventh Biennial Scientific Conference Sets Attendance Record by Alice Wondrak Biel

On October 6–8, the park hosted the Seventh Biennial Scientific Conference on the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. This year’s theme was Beyond the Arch: Community and Conservation in Greater Yellowstone and East Africa. The conference, which included a world-class slate of keynote speakers, including Dr. Richard Leakey, surpassed all previous Biennial Conferences in attendance, with 188 pre-registered participants and attendees, and several walk-up registrants. Paper and panel presentations included discussions of local ranchland dynamics (i.e., social, economic, and land use change); national policy and the rights of local peoples; conservation trends in both ALL PHOTOS NPS ALL PHOTOS East Africa and the GYE; environmental perception and imagery; compara- tive ecosystem Jeanette Wolfley, Shoshone-Bannock Tribes, and Drusilla Gould, Idaho State University, were part of a panel on con- analyses; and the servation agendas and indigenous peoples. sometime collision of conservation efforts and cultural agendas. The primary theme that emerged from the roughly 30 papers and seven keynote lec- tures presented was the question of whether conservation efforts are most effectively directed from the national or local scale. A variety of opinions and reasons were expressed throughout the three days, sometimes leading to heated debate. Overall, the assembled group seemed to generally conclude that national-scale conservation works best in some situations, and should be maintained as such, while community-based conservation efforts are most appropriate in other situations. Improved collabora- Samson Lenjirr, of Kenya’s Narok Council, tion between national spoke in a session on African and local efforts was Conservation Trends. widely advocated. The conference attracted speakers and attendees from across the U.S., and from Africa as well. Other keynote speakers included Drs. Dan Flores, A. B. Hammond Professor of History at the University of Montana, who delivered the Aubrey Haines lecture, “What We’ve Learned About Nature from the National Park Idea”; A.R.E. Sinclair, professor of zoology and Director of the Centre for Biodiversity Research at the University of British Columbia, who delivered the Superintendent’s International lecture, “Understanding Ecosystem Processes for Con- servation and Management”; Charles Preston, Founding Curator of the Draper Museum of Natural History; Lee Talbot, Professor of Environmental Science, International Affairs, and Public Policy at Dr. Doug Smith receives the 2002 NPS Director’s Award for George Mason University; Steven Sanderson, President and CEO of Natural Resource Management. From left, Smith, Dr. Lee the Wildlife Conservation Society; and Robin Reid, systems ecologist Talbot, and John Varley.

22 Yellowstone Science for the International Livestock Research Institute. On October 7, John Varley and Dr. Talbot, who was a co- author of the Endangered Species Act, formally presented Doug Smith with the 2002 NPS Director’s Award for Natural Resource Management. Doug won the award last spring, but it had yet to be given to him, and the conference’s A. Starker Leopold Banquet seemed an apropos venue. The award presentation was followed by the A. Starker Leopold lecture, delivered this year by Dr. Richard Leakey, who spoke about his experiences in both conservation efforts and the dangerous business of oppositional politics in Kenya. A conference proceedings will be published. In the mean- time, more conference wrap-up information and photos will soon be available at www.nps.gov/yell/technical/conference.htm.

Dan Flores, A.B. Hammond Professor of History at the Beyond the Arch University of Montana, presented the Aubrey Haines Lecture.

Dappled in the autumn sun, the conference’s seven keynote speakers are pictured here with Yellowstone Center for Resources Director John Varley. From left, Drs. Lee Talbot, George Mason University; Robin Reid, International Livestock Research Institute; Steven Sanderson, Wildlife Conservation Society; Dan Flores, University of Montana; Charles Preston, Draper Museum of Natural History; (John Varley); A.R.E. Sinclair, University of British Columbia; and Richard Leakey, of Nairobi, Kenya.

Autumn 2003 23 NEWS notes

Mardy Murie Passes Away supper, cookie swap (in honor of Mardy's trail from Green Dragon Spring to Pork- The wilderness and conservation com- long tradition of "tea & cookies," all are chop Geyser intersection remaining munities lost one of their most eloquent invited to bring two dozen cookies-one closed. and passionate pioneers on October Each year, there is a noticeable 19, with the death of Mardy Murie change in the color and steam dis- at her ranch in Moose, Wyoming. charge of many of Norris's existing She was 101. In the Fall 2002 issue geysers and thermal pools. Known of Yellowstone Science (volume as the "annual disturbance," it 10[4]), Margaret Elizabeth Thomas appears related to increased emis- was born in Seattle in 1902, but sion of deep, hot waters. This year's spent her childhood in Fairbanks, "annual disturbance" significantly Alaska. In 1924, she was the first increased measured ground temper- woman to graduate from the Uni- atures to unacceptable levels (up to versity of Alaska. Her marriage to 200° Fahrenheit). Concern for visi- Olaus Murie in 1924 began a life- tor and employee safety necessitat- time of travel, scientific research, ed the temporary closure. Over the and involvement in conservation last several weeks, monitored trail activities. Mardy and Olaus had temperatures have significantly three children, Martin, Joanne, and decreased in the closed area. Three Don. Mardy was the author of sev- of the four temperature monitoring eral books, including Two in the Far sites now indicate ground surface North and Wapiti Wilderness. She temperatures of less than 120° played a key role in the the designa- Fahrenheit. tion of the Arctic National Wildlife During this year's annual distur- Refuge (1960) and the passage of bance, a new thermal feature the the Wilderness Act (1964) and emerged near Son of Green Dragon Alaska National Interest Lands Spring, emitting a mudflow that Conservation Act (1980). She began spattering boiling, acidic served on the Council of the Wilder- mud onto the trail, requiring the ness Society, received an Honorary trail closure. This feature continues Doctorate from the University of to spatter mud onto the trail, and Alaska, the prestigious Audubon Mardy Murie. the area surrounding the new fea- Medal, and was an Honorary Park ture will remain closed until a Ranger. She was on the founding board of dozen to share and one dozen to swap), reroute of the trail can be accomplished the Teton Science School. In 1998, Mardy and music and dancing. All ages are invit- sometime in spring 2004. was awarded the Presidential Medal of ed; interested parties can call 307-739- Freedom, which President Bill Clinton 2246 for more information. For those 2002 YCR Annual Report Available bestowed on her for her lifetime of service unable to attend, a tribute to Mardy's life The Yellowstone Center for Resources to conservation. Her most recent accolade and work will also take place at the Murie Annual Report for 2002 is now available came at her 100th birthday celebration, Symposium, August 13-16, 2004 at the from the YCR Publications Office. Con- when Mardy was awarded the National Murie Ranch in Moose. tact Alice Wondrak Biel at 307-344-2233 Wildlife Federation's highest honor, the or [email protected] to obtain 2002 J.N. Ding Darling Conservationist of Most of Norris Geyser Basin Reopens a copy. the Year Award. to Public To honor her life, The Murie Center On October 9, 2003, portions of Norris Two Wyoming Men Charged with will host a special event, "Celebrating the Geyser Basin that had been closed since Poaching Elk Life of Mardy Murie," on Saturday, July 23, 2003, reopened to the public. On October 3, 2003, two men from November 15, 2003, at the Snow King Approximately 4,800 feet of the 5,800- northwestern Wyoming were cited into Resort, Jackson, Wyoming. The tribute foot temporary closure were reopened, federal court for illegally shooting and will begin at 5 p.m., followed by a light with only the portion of the Back Basin killing three bull elk in a remote area

24 Yellowstone Science NEWS notes inside Yellowstone's eastern boundary. friend. Once rangers investigated the scene Yellowstone Wolf Reprinted in Paper Multiple items, including rifles, handguns, and made preliminary evaluations of the motor vehicles, trailers, stock and optical damage, Elford was taken into custody and The Yellowstone Wolf: A Guide and equipment were seized from the suspects transported to the jail in West Yellowstone, Sourcebook, edited by Paul Schullery and after they abandoned the carcasses and Montana. His companion was not arrested with a foreword by former Secretary of the attempted to leave the area. The investiga- but was cited for his part in the damage to Interior Bruce Babbitt, has been reprinted tion is continuing with assistance from the park resources. in paperback by the University of Okla- U.S. Fish and Wildlife homa Press. Originally Service and the published by the Yellow- Wyoming Department of stone Association, the Game and Fish. Multiple book is a comprehensive additional charges are history of the Yellow- anticipated. stone wolf restoration effort, tracing the story Resource Damage at of wolves in the park Lone Star Geyser from the days of primi- Considerable tive wilderness, through resource damage has the wolf eradication peri- been done to Lone Star od, and on to restoration Geyser and the surround- and re-establishment. ing area after two men The book features a new illegally entered the area afterword briefly dis- by vehicle and drove cussing the effects of the around the geyser and restoration on both surrounding meadows. wildlife and human pop- On Friday evening, Octo- ulations. All proceeds ber 10, 2003, Adam Ray benefit the Yellowstone Tire tracks from Lonestar Geyser Elford, 22 years old, of across thermal channel into wetlands. Wolf Project. Vancouver, Washington, drove his 2000 4WD Toyota Tacoma around the locked barri- Elford made his initial appearance cade at the parking area and proceeded before the U.S. Magistrate Judge Stephen down the trail to the end of the asphalt. He Cole on October 13, 2003, and was and his companion then moved the log charged with operating a vehicle off road; barrier and drove completely around the injuring mineral resources; possession of cone of the geyser and surrounding mead- a loaded firearm in a motor vehicle; ows until the vehicle became stuck in the improper food storage; and operating a soft soil. Once stuck, they set up camp near motor vehicle with a suspended driver’s the geyser, started a fire, and stayed the license. Judge Cole released Elford on a night. $5,000 Unsecured Bond. His compan- On the following morning, they ion’s name will be released after he has walked to Old Faithful where they found made his initial court appearance some- an unidentified couple in the Old Faithful time in the near future. parking lot who agreed to help them. The The park is currently assessing the couple drove Elford and his companion resource damage done by the two indi- back to the Lone Star Geyser area, but viduals, which appears to be significant. after realizing the gravity of the situation, Tire tracks are clearly visible (see photo) they refused to help and returned them to around the geyser and throughout the Old Faithful. Elford and his companion meadows near the geyser. On behalf of then went to the Old Faithful Ranger Sta- the National Park Service, the U.S. Attor- tion to report the incident. ney’s Office in Cheyenne, Wyoming, will Park rangers immediately returned to seek full restitution from the two individ- Lone Star Geyser with Elford and his uals for all restoration costs.

Autumn 2003 25 Help keep Yellowstone Science coming! We depend on our readers’ kind support to help defray printing costs.

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