The DesignJournal PP 165–186 VOLUME 14,ISSUE2 an empathic approach canbeofprimary This paperconcludesby evaluating how thereby long-termproduct relationships. to create deeperproduct satisfactionand products, designershavetheopportunity relationships withandattachmentsto relationships. Bystudyingtheuser’s to aimatenhancinglong-termproduct promote , need a sustainabledesignprocess. Inorder to empathic designapproach couldimprove of .Asaresult, itstudieshowan product relationships andthefield role is constructedwhichintegratessustainable eye ontextilesandclothing.Aframework on sustainableproduct relationships withan ABSTRACT Aalto University, Finland Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen Sustainable in Beautiful! Empathic It MakesMeFeel I LovethisDress, PUBLISHERS DIRECTLY FROMTHE REPRINTS AVAILABLE This paperpresents astudy LICENSE ONLY PERMITTED BY PHOTOCOPYING PRINTED INTHEUK © BERG2011

165 The Design Journal DOI: 10.2752/175630611X12984592779962 166 The Design Journal Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen Introduction relationships, product attachment Keywords: empathicknowledge,sustainabledesign,product emotions. understanding consumers’needs,valuesand relationships bydeepening current methodsof importance inpromoting sustainableproduct emotions, at least immediately after the purchase event. According event. purchase the after immediately least at emotions, self of self one’s category and of identity.the own to Textiles belong clothing and expressions are aspires they consumer furthermore a and 1988), which to (McCracken, lifestyle desired the represent ing necessitated the emergence of the concept of empathic design design empathic of (McDonagh etal.,2002). concept the of emergence the necessitated areincreasingof interest researchersto has this and designers, and (W self sociality,and inner the furthermore,externalize and choices clothing sexuality identity, to connected roles unifies clothing example For are. we who others and us to symbolize us around objects hence and wealth, but also our values, history and relationships with others; and care fortheproduct. attachment deeper a form to order in product the with relationship deeper product a build to need longer consumers time same the at and designing lifespans, on concentrate should designers states that Manzini Hence patterns. consumption in change drastic a consumption behaviour, and he calls for a new radicalism people’sto on stimulate be should development sustainable in focus actual the productsin processes.manufacturing or that argues (1994) Manzini eco make and products existing redesign promote sustainabledevelopment. more need we orderproductin extend to lifetimes to possibilities about knowledge Hence consumption. unsustainable and fast into them tempt prices product cheap and consuming, fulfil by needs many Consumers landfill. to going increasingly is waste textile and textiles and clothing function by and large on an of unsustainable basis, consumption and production industrial Current exception. no is field clothing and textiles The 2008). (Mont, obsolescence planned ind­ the in system economic ustrialized world is actually based whole on products’ fast replacement the and and products, repair to + E standing social personality, our represents possession Material To reach a more sustainable future path it is not enough merely to motions play a strong role in consumption. Textiles and cloth­ Textiles and consumption. in role strong a play motions - oodward, 2005). The consumer’sfunctionality The beyond 2005). oodward,needs expressive products, which inspire consumption inspire which products, expressive low unit price and low quality. It is no longer worthwhile worthwhile longer no is It quality. low and price unit low ability; instead they dur­ are throwawayfor articles because designed of their not are products contemporary Most - efficiency improvements efficiency - related related employs a qualitative case study method, and it can be described be can it and method, study case qualitative a employs study The Finland. in conducted questionnaires two of basis the on This study focuses on the consumer perspective and is constructed Materials andMethods long garments’ and textiles’ for determinants the and described, then are clothing and textiles with attachments product of levels many The presented. is in the following way. After the introduction section the data collected in role structured is paper and The relationships. product field sustainable fostering work designers’ the describes that framework a presentspaper This clothing. and textiles of context the in use term consumer current with tackle to task problematic more a are – experiences future of in promise the dimensions and values emotional deeper as such – Other, relationships . sustainable more for foundation making a as serve can approach an such how and needs and values deeper consumers’ understand to help can approach empathic an how explores paper This 2008). (Mont quality intrinsic make it possible to design increased product longevity by increasing not does fast system this and obsolescence, products’ planned and on replacement based is business doing and manufacturing of and system current the aspects, hand other the quality On considerations. functionality choices, material styles, design designers: product’s the enabling long-term use. thus may satisfaction, experience product use deeper to positive lead hand, other the On postponed. is inspire a deeper attachment, and through this, product replacement to use its or product the with associated be must meaning special in this itself does not lead to attachment. expectations, According to these authors some consumers’ to according performs product Mugge As develop. will attachment emotional an that ensure not does process this consumer’s and fulfilment, need the to connected is utilitarian product’s the that Mugge time, same the At phase. use the during stimulated emotions the unlike attachment, product to link no have important for a consumer, but as consumption-linked emotions they to values inproducts, andthefieldofdesign. constructed that unifies sustainable product relationships, emotional to consumers’ long-term product relationships. Finally a framework is approach empathic an and study closer needs relationshipproduct person the particular, In lifetimes. product extend to aiming when consumer use to essential is it that reflects argues and field work designers’ the against knowledge this empathic designmethods. ichins (2008) these feelings of excitement at purchase point are point purchase at excitement of feelings these (2008) Richins Many design processes are already familiar to consumer to familiar already are processes design Many The present study investigates product attachments and long and attachments product investigates study present The - centric methods and, this paper argues, require argues, paper this and, methods centric I LovethisDress, ItMakesMeFeelBeautiful!EmpathicKnowledgeinSustainableDesign - term use are defined. defined. are use term - centred empathic knowledge knowledge empathic centred et al. et (2005) point out, if the the if out, point (2005) S ubsequently the study study the ubsequently (2008) argue (2008) al. et -centric - -

167 The Design Journal 168 The Design Journal Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen patterns inFinlandarepatterns similartothoseinotherW consumption clothing and textile the nevertheless contexts; cultural case study is that the results may not be repeatable as such in other the in limitation The consumers. to relationships product offering long-term in approach empathic an use to opportunities designers’ investigate to used is questionnaires the through produced ledge empirical findings interact withthe theory. In the latterstudy part of this paper the know­ the throughout and satisfaction, product and in use, and further, the reasons for longevity or short-term use. A total short -term also and long-term stay which garments and textiles the clothing on section a satisfaction. included questionnaire This women. were respondents the of cent per 70.4 and old), years 26–35 were cent per 48.5 and old years 18–25 were cent per (29.4 years 35 under acquaintances. Most of the respondents belonged to the age group their to link the disseminate further to asked randomly werethen age groups)who different in was female and male (equally questionnaire people 30 the about to to sent link The respondents. 204 product considered attach questionnaire this of part One old. years 35 38.4 per cent being 18 to 25 years old, and 41.6% between 26 and young: fairly were respondents of majority The men. were cent per 8.2 and women wererespondents of cent per 91.8 of total A naire. question­ this in participated respondents 246 of total A ( Factory). Kierrätystehdas and Clothes), (Green Vaatteet Vihreät following the on Finland, pages: as web well as Helsinki, Design and Art of University the at staff to available University.was Lapland link the Furthermore Applied of University Metropolia Helsinki at students 2009. The link to the questionnaire was disseminated among design content were larger group of respondents. The responses from the questionnaires a involve consumers to possible the it makes from questionnaire online directly an themselves; insights gather to It valuable generalize. most to is possibilities offer to respondents) (several cases study,case instrumental and several collective to extended is which (Stake, 2005). According to in complexities the product reveal relationships to and order to in make these selected relationships understandable been has method study case qualitative The 2006). (Anttila, investigation in-depth as ques this questionnaire. on based is Attachments’ ‘Product section following The textiles. respondents home about texts 171 wrote 162 and garments about all, texts short wrote In textile. home or garment the keeping for garment as well as the oldest home textile they possess and reasons The first questionnaire was conducted as an online survey in April The next data collection was conducted in March 2010. This This 2010. March in conducted was collection data next The ­tion ments. ­ments. naire was based on a ‘snowball sampling’ method with with method sampling’ ‘snowball a on based was ­naire espondents were asked to write short descriptions of descriptions short write to asked were Respondents R - analysed in the context of product attachment attachment product of context the in analysed espondents were asked to write about their oldest oldest their about write to asked were espondents Stake (2005) this can be defined to be a thical Consumer), (Ethical Kuluttaja Eettinen estern countries. estern ciences, and Sciences, R ecycling ecycling and Product Satisfaction’. ‘Long section the in presented are results The clothing. and textiles of use long-term for determinants the identify to order in analysed were texts These clothing. considered responses these of most and use, short-term about question answeredthe 197 use, S Product Attachments long about question open the answered consumers 195 of of consumer of places, situations or life stages such as one’s own childhood or or achievements. childhood life own one’s even as such stages life or situations places, particular to linked are that memories through emerges also value friend. a or relative mother,grandmother,father,another they be close, someone of memory representa simply or present a inherited, be could they person: particular a to connection strong a emotionally bond to textiles and people clothing. The oldest garments or textiles carried how of picture broad a painted replies possess. These they textile home and garment oldest the about stories questionnaire. consumer attachment. of degree the to positively contribute enjoyment and memories only these, of that state authors The value. market and reliability; utility; self of support events; memories and places, enjoyment; persons, to identified: be can attachments product of S Accord products. of lifespan the lengthen to order in create con­ that attachment product the strengthen to seek should im­ is it products.designers many Hence of lifespan the lengthen to portant viewpoint, sustainability a From others. of dispose easily dis­ be to unlikely is of. posed product of kind this Hence loss. emotional experi user the lost, is object of kind this if mean user: the and to lot a special are that objects towards emerge attachments product Durable product. a with has user a experiences engaged ntwistle, 2000). Aesthetic attributes in clothing have an emotional an have clothing in attributes Aesthetic 2000). (Entwistle, situated and constituted socially is that experience embodied an as context are perceived simultaneously, and we can approach clothing offers us (Lang, 1988). The dress, the body and the self in the social object the that pleasure time same the at and experience aesthetic (Niinimäki, 2009;2010a). not even be used at all; hence they are kept for may memory reasons garments only and textiles meaningful emotionally These memory. or products person important history,some individual’sown an cherished to linked areand meaningful these often and temporally, chifferstein and Zwartkruis and chifferstein hfesen n Zwartkruis and chifferstein Table 1 is constructed on the basis of the responses of the 2009 the responsesof Tablethe of basis the on constructed is 1 they whereas objects some to attachments create Consumers The interaction between user and object is on the basis of the the of basis the on is object and user between interaction The - product attachment as the strength of emotionally emotionally of strength the as attachment product I LovethisDress, ItMakesMeFeelBeautiful!EmpathicKnowledgeinSustainableDesign E R motional attachments need to develop develop to need attachments motional espondents were asked to write short short write to asked were espondents - Pelgrim (2008), seven determinants determinants seven (2008), Pelgrim - Pelgrim (2008) define the degree degree the define (2008) Pelgrim - identity; life vision; vision; life identity; - Emotional term Use Use term sumers ences ­ences ing to to ­ing - term term

169 The Design Journal 170 The Design Journal experiences Present/future Effort, Achievement values ‘Self’/Personal Connection to Material Design/Style/Beauty Functionality Quality Emotional values Table 1 Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen Attachments totextilesandclothing(basedonNiinimäki2009;2010a) Satisfying experiences Suitability forgift-giving Family tiesandcontinuityaspect,objectsasheirlooms opportunities fornarrativestoemerge) Promise ofexperiences(e.g.modificationpossibility, partygarments, Self-designed Self-made Tailor Handmade One’s ownideology Made forme Uniqueness Expression of‘self’ Ageing well,aesthetically, gracefully The experienceofbeautyinmulti-sensorialways Strong design,represents someuniqueperiodofdesignstyle Classical, timelessdesign,nottooloudvisualmessages Reparability Fit Multi-functionality Durability High qualityindesign,materialsandrealization Positive associations(e.g.safeandsofttactilefeeling) Family ties Memories (history/past,places,people,moments,childhood) the wearer deeply involves the garment/body interaction, and this this and interaction, garment/body the involves deeply wearer the body,odour.and touch pleasant and pleasureThe offersclothing to such as the feeling of comfort, the weight of the material against our experiences, kinetic and olfactory tactile, entails also but visual, only not therefore is clothing of beauty The experiences. use sensorial time that develop in social situations and through positive and multi- over experiences beauty through as well beauty,as aesthetic their product. a of emotional the benefits constitutes mood person’s a on effect this (2000), Jordan to ( according wearer’s mood; the emotions elevate can our it on and 1995), impact strong a has thus Clothing it’. a wearing when that pretty feel said ‘I because important respondent become one has dress example, For wearer. the on effect -made Attachment attributes W e feel attached to garments because of of because garments to attached feel e R aunio, aunio, through personal objects and decoration ( decoration and objects personal through one’sown made is home society consumer contemporary In time. long a for kept and personified been have that objects to strongly identity their link Consumers them. in up wrapped ‘self’ have also important objects at home. Objects that include valued possessions the disposalofaproduct (Niinimäki, 2010a). to modify a textile or garment in the future was a reason to postpone reasons for longevity (Figures 1, 2 and 3). Furthermore the possibility as garments and textiles cherished old of repair and care good the (W of care taken well be to deserves it and us, to precious meaningful, way,emotional deep a productin respectthe productbecomes the 2009). (Chapman, cherishability earned have the items have gained personal symbolic and sentimental value, they where stage the to developed have products to attachments When them, onerespondent answered thefollowing: to meant textiles home their what questionnaire the in asked when and Csikszentmihalyi experiences as described in the previous section. However, However, section. previous the in described as experiences personal or history individual’s an to connected and personal are they as design, in embed to easy not are attachments Meaningful Long-term UseandProduct Satisfaction a as identity. seen individual’s an be to aspect central thus a quite can is it and family, Home the for body symbolic textiles. including items, its and home the encompasses concept self extended This concept. ‘self’ extended an to interlinks level family the and identity, consumer’s intense more a a represent exposes objects material earlier, stated also As response. it emotional but identity, and affection ality, one, and it has deep emotional significance. It represents sentiment­ personal experiencesandhistory(Niinimäki,2010a). our and memory tactile to connection profound and strong a has alker,respondentsmentioned questionnaireseveral this In 2006). them Iexpress myself. Through them. modify I or themselves as worn be can which markets, flea from clothes sensational of lot a bought have I which can be combined with more individual clothes. Moreoverand years for lasted have which clothes, basic of lot a have I these retain to want memories bytakinggoodcare ofthetextile. I because saved been has textile The in thefurniture. of because mainly own curtains and carpets and one’s because of the colours and patterns like feels home own One’s According to Crozier (1994) the concept of ‘home’ is a complex a is ‘home’ of concept the (1994) Crozier to According I LovethisDress, ItMakesMeFeelBeautiful!EmpathicKnowledgeinSustainableDesign W e all surround ourselves with personal and and personal with ourselves surround all e R ochberg - Halton, 1981). To illustrate this, this, illustrate To 1981). Halton, S olomon olomon W hen we value and and value we hen et al. et , 2002; 2002; ,

171 The Design Journal 172 The Design Journal fits withthehomeinterior. though itsstylenolonger cannot bedisposedofeven the owner’s mother, andit This pillowwasmadeby especially inhometextiles. aspect ofthehandmade Uniqueness islinkedtothe Figure 1 Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen symbolizes effort andlove. long timetomake,andit disposed of.Ithastakena emotionally valuabletobe owner’s godmotheristoo bedspread madebythe This hand-crocheted Figure 2 strongly linked to product satisfaction. term product relationships. long- in important is experience use positive hence and satisfaction, product to leads situation use the in emotions positive experiencing term use, and they arethey and use, long-term to contribute attributes quality Some Swan and Combs (1976) argue or special style can be the reason to keep the product. In these these In product. the and average above been expressivehas the performance situations keep to reason the be can colour style beautiful special a or hand other the On changing. are trends when even good looks colour,which or style classical more a to due use in long-term stay garments and textiles Moreover use). in materials comfortable especially and fit (good experience tactile positive and fit colour, style, beauty, consumer: the for dimension important an is, easy maintenance, suitability in use and satisfying use experience. quality. Functional aspects are also important for the consumer: that manufacturing high and stability) colour and material (dimensional, aspect includes durable quality materials, durability in use, the stability while laundering responses, the to According functionality. and long-term for use of textiles and determinants clothing: quality,the aesthetical be dimensions to defined be can attributes following the short or longevity for reasons the and use, in short-term also and long-term stay that textiles and iles. text­ and clothing of use long-term the in attributes about formation ( consumer the Combs, 1976). to important are that dimensions and attributes those in performance good a ensuring by achieved best is satisfaction product attributes, of set limited a through products fulfilled. be to have also product the with needs consumer’spsychological The satisfaction. in result not will alone performance instrumental in needs however, fulfilling first; psychological product satisfaction the instrumental requirements must be satisfied consumer’s the In performance. expressive its to linked while is garment the to response clothing, in performance that the physical properties of clothing interlink with the instrumental Furthermore, the following aesthetical attributes can be found as found be can attributes aesthetical following the Furthermore, in­ more gain to conducted was questionnaire 2010 March The espondents were asked to write about examples of garments of examples about write to wereasked Respondents I LovethisDress, ItMakesMeFeelBeautiful!EmpathicKnowledgeinSustainableDesign - term use. From the questionnaire questionnaire the From use. term W hen consumers evaluate evaluate consumers hen S wan and and wan period ofaperson’s life. represent along-vanished meaning totheowner. They childhood haveaspecial Objects from one’s Figure 3

173 The Design Journal 174 The Design Journal aesthetical. is considered tobe In leathertheagingprocess Figure 4 Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen state that consumers often take the quality and durability aspects for They satisfaction. clothing to linked fundamentally is quality clothing study. current the to short in result and dissatisfaction symbols. fashion andconstructionofself withexternal this relates to the emotional response to clothing such as a sense of and satisfaction, product deep achieve to experiences, addressed be also must aesthetic the instance for performance, expressive an Furthermore, fundamental. is is, performance that instrumental good levels: a quality in expectations consumer’s the fulfil product to The has attributes. quality experienced the are determinants has beenthebeautyexperience(Figure 4). product the keep to reason the hence and satisfaction, in resulted Low durability and especially poor quality are determinants in in determinants are quality poor especially and durability Low main the clothing and textiles with satisfaction considering When S wan and Combs (1976) have shown that that shown have (1976) Combs and wan - term use of clothing according according clothing of use term optimum use time or they are discarded prematurely due to, for for to, due prematurely discarded are they or time use optimum product deep of satisfaction (Figure 5). achievement process this through and clothing to response emotional consumers’ the to proceed to order in first fulfilled and realized be to have quality experienced and properties 1976). In other words, expectations regarding the garment’s physical Combs, and (Swan performance expressive of experience towards move can satisfaction before first satisfied be to have requirements performance instrumental the as essential, most are satisfaction in attributes instrumental the mentioned, as However,durability. than moreis important appearance satisfaction, clothing in that out point granted, and when asked about these issues in questionnaires, they Currently there are more and more products that do not last the last not do that products more and more are there Currently I LovethisDress, ItMakesMeFeelBeautiful!EmpathicKnowledgeinSustainableDesign from the1950s. mother’s handmadedress value. Inthisphotoismy association andemotional has asignificantpersonal some specialperson,it has aconnectionto If thetextileorgarment Figure 5

175 The Design Journal 176 The Design Journal Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen consumers need in the end is a well a is end the in need consumers what that out points 2006) (2003, Nes Van 2006). 2003, Nes, Van style classic Mugge (see variability, relationship person-product strong and a and upgradability for design guarantee, consumption: re sustainable in value create to opportunity the offer this engagement andcontinuationaspectsinproduct satisfaction. questionnaires, the from discursive attachment, reflective quotes on discussion the deepens section selected highlighting By long creat ­ through sustainability promote to opportunities design the which results in durable product relationships. This section maps out design products that offer deep product attachment and satis­ with the products. From a sustainability perspective it is advisable to experience consumers that satisfaction the or bond emotional intensify the to needs design sustainable that suggest studies These ’s Field Empathic KnowledgeinSustainableDesign:The 2010b). product(Niinimäki, deep satisfaction of sense a gain to is consumer the if addressed be to have also values personal and ideological of purchasingin attribute primary kinds a These as decisions. ideology and eco-labels. ‘ Ethical hardliners’ tend to prioritize a strong personal environmental benefits such as eco-materials, ethical manufacturing products’ on puts s/he value more the high, consumers’ is commitment ethical when example, for and sustainability: producers towards consumers, designers guide could values and deep needs consumers’ inner about discussion the emotional dimension this changing In own needs. consumers’ or pressure social trends, changing fast of because products of obsolescence psychological a experience Consumers 2008). (Mont, changing example, about product attachment and long and attachment product about knowledge our of problemmost methodological as a Hereenter we typically not ‘designable’ as such, one needs new design strategies. with theproduct orforming deepproduct attachmentovertime. satisfaction continuing achieving in is lifetimes product extending in challenge the Accordingly needs. changing their fulfils that product approaches, the idea is to let people define what is relevant rather relevant is what define people let to is idea the approaches, hard those relationships that escape questionnaires and interviews. In empathic precisely address to approach toconsumer long promote to It does not give designers the kind of detailed information they need say.people what on based is it is, that questionnaires, from comes liability and durability, easy maintenance and repairs, long life long repairs, and maintenance easy durability, and ­liability everal studies have shown that the following design strategies design following the that shown have studies Several term, deep product relationships, which are which relationships, product deep long-term, Tothese foster E mpathic design approaches originally attended to the need need the to attended originally approaches design mpathic - term product relationships via various design ap design various via relationships product term - term product relationships. Hence, an empathic empathic an Hence, relationships. product term -based knowledgeisneeded. - to - - - term product relationships relationships product term functioning and up and functioning catch emotional product product emotional catch , 2005; al., et proaches. ­proaches. - to faction, - date date ing - on individual consumers’ memories and meaningful associations associations (Niinimäki, 2009). based meaningful be and can memories process consumers’ design individual on the way, this In textiles. durable emotionally and uniqueness meaningful produce to opportunity one technology,digital is of help the with example, for products, unique produces that service of design A emotions. degree and needs the consumer’s influence can designer attach­ The 6b). and 6a (Figure attachment product and satisfaction product deep a achieve can the lifestyle, and values is, that memories, and personal needs aesthetic construction, identity emotions, consumer’s services offer thisdimensionintextileandclothingdesign. co customization, structures, modular ducts, pro­ Halfway individuality. own one’s of expression and consumer the to accomplishment an symbolize which practices, do-ityourself and personalization through is replacement product the postpone needs and attachment product the deepen individual to way Another 2009). his/her (Rizzo, and user the understand better thereby ner­ design process itself: that is, the designer can create proactive part­ rolethe active in an differentlypeople design giving do co-design, is 1998; (Black, not. There are several empathic techniques that can be applied here are levels emotional deeper but – tactility, aspects and functionality and quality appearance visual to related everything especially – accessible through consumer through accessible levels. many at products with relationship a create Consumers object. the and user the between relationship structure ofspecificproduct relationships, grounding theoryindata. productrelationshipanalytically,the the down into looked have they break to trying of Instead approaches. interpretative more adopted have designers empathic reason, this theory.For through reach to easy not correspondingly, and, constructions unique are they that is relationships such with problem The 2010). Koskinen, and (Ahde come to those and gone long those both generations, over family to connection or sorrow as such notions symbolize to come they analysing pieces such as family jewellery, researchers how can learn By them. for have products meanings of kinds what understand to order in people to listen and probe observe, to is researcher’s job and reflective levels. The visceral level is the immediate one linked linked one immediate the is level visceral The levels. reflective and levels when processing product experience: the visceral, behavioural three are there that argues (2005) Norman attachment. product as Positive product experience can result in product satisfaction as well Reflective Attachments andDiscursiveEngagement categories. researchers’ through working than If the designer can connect the design outcome deeply with a with deeply outcome design the connect can designer the If An empathic approach provides a promising way to study the the study to way promising a provides approach empathic An ships with end users and through this connection and know­ ment through designing products that better interlink with the with interlink better productsthat throughdesigning ment egal and Fulton and Segal I LovethisDress, ItMakesMeFeelBeautiful!EmpathicKnowledgeinSustainableDesign - centric tech design industrial centric uri, 1997). One promising way to way promising One 1997). Suri, ome of these levels are levels these of Some - creation, and design design and creation, E ssentially, the the ssentially, niques ­niques ledge

177 The Design Journal 178 The Design Journal design wasthecustomer’s grandfather’s letters.CourtesyofOyVallila InteriorAb. A uniquedesignprocess cancreate meaningfulemotionalexperiences.Thestartingpointforthisroller blind Figure 6aand6b Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen respondent commentedthatthetextilehadbeendurable, because: of 2009. 2009. of the in question­ factor the from quotation a is change following The design. product positive a embed to aim should designer a use (Chapman,2009). engagement discursive Hence includes the change factors that develop or emerge during time and object. the on attention focus to help elements new stimulus and a product, as the with act interaction also sustained to elements new engagement discursive In product. the with satisfaction and experience use, through values deep construction, identity discussion, inner his/her with user the connects and time over develops which engagement, discursive in (Norman, 2005). no interpretation, understanding or deep reasoning, only direct effect thought processes are fully operating, while at the lower level there is and emotions both therefore, level, reflective this At cognition. and feelings, emotions, self emotions, feelings, comprises level reflective The experience. his/her upon reflect can factors. dominant person a where one, reflective the the level, highest the is level are last The use of effectiveness the and pleasure is level behavioural the level at and object, the second person’swith the behaviour The is processing. affective level for This point starting a judgements. also rapid make we where appearance, to designed for one of my homes, and it carries one stage of of stage the fit to reconstructed be can productone textile The it. in life my carries was it and textile homes, the my of one for Originally designed colours. favourite my includes it and textile the of process design the in involved been have I While the surprise element is important in discursive en­ fundamental is level reflective the highlights, (2009) Chapman As W hen asked for the story of a long a of story the for asked hen - image, personal satisfaction, memories memories satisfaction, personal image, - life home textile, one one textile, home life gage­ ment, naire the designprocess. Thefollowingisaquotefrom thequestionnaire. operative dimensions are easier to address than the reflective ones in These use. long -term products’ promote to order consumer,in the in embed to can important are that attributes and elements designer those design product a Therefore satisfaction product context. use studying temporal through a in emerge to attachment for the product, and hence positive product satisfaction is a prerequisite history, pastexperiencesandcreation ofmeaning(Margolin,2002). can change over time according to his/her values, attitude, personal experience product own person’s a moreover and products, with experiences different have individuals all Hence significance. social with a product through its operative value, its poetic dimension or its interact can someone (2002), Margolin to According chosen. way any in and feelings different to according objects with operate can Individuals aspects. these over control any have to designer a for difficult more much therefore is it and meaning, ascribe they how ones. reflective the than R product a of dimensions operative identify the to easier is it out points (2002) Margolin As type. product to according elements different from formed is satisfaction Product Continuing ProductSatisfaction exchange stocksoperatingthrough theinternet. modification systems or even more radical services such as product kinds of services such as upgrading or new updating, offering repairing or through product is this to accomplish to experience opportunity One future come. a of promise the product the in embedding uniqueness meaningful (Niinimäki, 2009). creating is (s)he Hence process. design joy and thus actualize her/his and be part of the continuing experience can user The structure. modular a has which textile, the experience with the product when rebuilding a new composition with new a has user the home: new a into moving when process design the continues respondentalso The stage. life certain a of memory a carries textile The textile. preferencesthe personal in embedding by process design the of outcome final the influence to possibility the having and process design the in involved being through also unique, but is textile the because only not attachment, product deep a developed has textile the of owner the that interpreted be can It eflective dimensions are interlinked with individuals’ feelings and and feelings individuals’ with interlinked are dimensions eflective clothing; it works in all occasions, the quality is high, it is is it high, is quality the occasions, all in works it clothing; this with ownership of sense a felt I beginning very the From of use long-term a enables experience use satisfying a However Furthermore, discursive engagement can be catalysed through through catalysed be can engagement discursive Furthermore, and thematerialshavelastedwell. place, that for just designed been has it like looks place new a in product The it. of shape the change can you and I LovethisDress, ItMakesMeFeelBeautiful!EmpathicKnowledgeinSustainableDesign

179 The Design Journal 180 The Design Journal Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen discussion on how to frame designers’ field of work in terms of terms in work of field sustainable product relationships. designers’ frame the to into how on aspect discussion emotional the adding knowledge, section that on This builds outcome. its and process satisfaction design product the as in well dimensions as attributes attachment embed to have designers possibilities the out mapped section previous The Framework forSustainable Product Relationships material and manufacturing process made the piece long piece the made process manufacturing and material the of quality high the has future only Not experiences. and deep of present promises past, to links as well as association, personal memories, and meanings of levels many includes that jacket dinner man’sa was questionnaire the in mentioned clothing of piece One for product attachmentto emerge. opportunity the and use long-term enable and satisfaction product E contexts. use different in and groups productdifferent in consumer the to important are that attributes those identify can designer the This 2008). Tahara, and consumer needs also therebyapproach (Park issues quality with conjunction in the product’s environmental impacts, but also consumer satisfaction eco-efficiency therefore suggests that is it important to study not only Takingconsumer products. a of meanings symbolic and emotional the through needs emotional consumers’ fulfilling in a in lies thus better understanding of consumer relationships product deeper facilitating to key The The multifunctional. is it and following isaquotefrom thequestionnaire (Niinimäki, 2010a). design timeless a has jacket This product. this for value unique a created have experiences and level but also all the meaningful associations at the cultural and subjective nsuring high performance in those attributes can result in deep deep in result can attributes those in performance high nsuring personality. a productexpresses my differentThe with clothes. combination through style clothing personal a create me helped has it Moreover beautifully. ages it and it, wearing enjoy I timeless, it wouldbemostdifficulttogiveup. occasions. Now it has collected so much emotional value that anymore. much so used not wardrobe, the in is it Now twice). fact (in jacket that wearing married got frequently.I it wore also who friend, my to it lent I it of bored got I when day,and every jacket the wore I First Söder, Bondegatan [Bonde wore it in the movie. I bought it at the flea market in movie the for handmade originally was It 1920s. the represents which jacket, dinner the obviously is] possess I garment oldest [The . Unfortunately I don’tI who Unfortunately know Alexander. & Fanny Street], sometime in 1981 or 1982. S -based quality attributes as well as ometimes I wear it at festive festive at it wear I ometimes centred knowledge so that so knowledge -centred based view on view -based Stockholm - lasting, lasting, needs, better ensures prolonged use. This future experience level level experience future This use. prolonged ensures better needs, emerge in the product or its use, or which fulfil consumers’ changing to elements new or come to experiences new enable that services Furthermore,experiences. aesthetical satisfying providingas well as quality product intrinsic high example, for through, experience use consumer combine can designer the process this In longevity.product’s the for determinants also are that and consumers to important are that attributes those in performance product good provide can designer the present the of level the At approach. design empathic an needs starting process a this design; unique as for aiming process, design the in point associations) and memories meaningful (individual consumer’sthe use also can designer the However history personal emerge. to attachments product for opportunities and satisfaction product in levels experience emotional future and present the with aspect of temporal emotionally bonding the with products. The on designer can work based is framework The 7). Figure (see methods empathic designers’ and relationships product sustainable of utes time and (Schifferstein andZwartkruis-Pelgrim,2008). experiences through emerge to attachments emotional for opportunities create to attributes aforementioned these include values) are easier to include in the design process. The designer can dimensions personal and utility future style, object, the and of quality intrinsic (experience, present hand personal other very the On own, experiences. individuals’ on based are associations) and (memories past the to related attachment product of Dimensions achieve. to designer a for task difficult a is it attachment, product regardingstrategy promising most the is memories of accumulation more importantasitissustainedanddeeper. ence). (emotional response emotional reflectiveand experi­ sustained (emotional and response statement) reflexive and short a of consists are products old with form we influenced bymemories. attachments enjoyment while product, new a important, to is attachment an forming while that values). values). personal and utility style, object, the of quality intrinsic (experience, future and present associations), and (memories past the includes contexts and at many levels of meaning. Csikszentmihalyi and and Csikszentmihalyi meaning. of R levels many at and contexts kin and non and kin family, immediate self, to us linking dimensions are which person, the to related meanings objects’ describe They objects. to related ochberg The future designer needs to provide satisfying and continuing continuing and satisfying provide to needs designer future The attrib­ the combines that constructed been has framework A the while hence and individual, very is experience of level The Forlizzi S ustainable product relationships are constructed in temporal temporal in constructed are relationships product ustainable hen aiming for product longevity, the reflective response is response reflective longevity,productthe for aiming When S -centred research withempathicknowledge. - (2003) highlight that the emotional product concept product emotional the that highlight (2003) al. et Halton (1981) distinguish certain categories of meaning meaning of categories certain distinguish (1981) Halton hfesen n Zwartkruis and chifferstein - family aspects. There is also a non a also is There aspects. family I LovethisDress, ItMakesMeFeelBeautiful!EmpathicKnowledgeinSustainableDesign - Pelgrim (2008) propose propose (2008) Pelgrim - person level that that level person

181 The Design Journal 182 The Design Journal the fieldofdesign. empathic knowledgeand product relationships, Framework forsustainable Figure 7 Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen determinants for long for determinants The situation. use long-term the in especially expectations product consumers’ fulfilling by achieved be can experience use satisfying A role. designers’ the as well as approach empathic the attachments, and experiences product in values emotional relationships, product sustainable combined that presented was framework a Moreover product’sthe lifetime. extend to work design embed his/her in levels to these opportunities designer’s the described it Furthermore, determinants for long-term use in the context of textiles and clothing. This study described the elements in product attachments as well as Conclusions use satisfying a experience. despite them of dispose and chosen way any in relationship in the future, since consumers can act with the products process. to difficult especially is It 7. capture meaningful past experiences and include them in Figure the design in illustrated as relationships product sustainable and meaningful of levels the all encompass not design andservicethinking. experimental with approachcombined empathic an needs designer W longer but fewer with consumption sustainable as well as experiences, product positive when aiming for products durable product manufacturing relationships, consumers’ and sustained designing than important more even be may paper this in earlier mentioned services the especially and intrinsic quality, functionality as well as aesthetical dimensions. product enables dimensions. levels these at aesthetical expectations as consumers’ well Fulfilling as functionality quality, intrinsic hen dealing with the future level in product relationships, the the relationships, product in level future the with dealing hen The field of work for designers, what designers can do, does does do, can designers what designers, for work of field The S econdly it is problematic to ensure a long a ensure to problematic is it econdly lasting and emotionally meaningful products. meaningful emotionally and -lasting - term use of textiles and clothing are their their are clothing and textiles of use term - term product term Ahde, P. and Koskinen, I. (2010). ‘When memories become tangible: References importance whenpromoting sustainableproduct relationships. offers a consumer in base knowledge society.empathic consumer consumer An contemporary our individual the deeply more understand to approach empathic an as well as findings research scientific multidisciplinary on extending the product lifetime is an appropriate place to use both focusing Hence experience. emotional is, that response, reflective and sustained a of instead reflexive emotional response and short a research focused on consumer preferences. user In the in latter the approach aim the is for from greatly differs needs producthis/her and consumer relationshipsthe emotional inner and well asopportunitiesforfuture product attachments to emerge. as satisfaction product deep provide to designer the enables ledge and long-term product relationships, and moreover empathic know­ values needs, consumers’ the deeply more and understand to designer approach empathic an needs consumer design sustainable in lenge chal­ This time. over experiences meaningful through product attachments deep forming or product the with satisfaction continuing design process anditsoutcome. the into dimensions satisfaction product and elements attachment these embed to designers enable that approaches design lighted high­ paper This emerge. to attachments product enable aspects functionality moreover and process, ageing a aesthetical product’s including dimensions aesthetic attributes, quality styles, design some hand other the On self. of construction and associations and memories values, emotional values, personal their as such levels, many through attachments product create Consumers satisfaction. 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P. (eds), ing - W W of optimization lifetime for strategies ‘Design (2006). N. Nes, Van (2003). N. Nes, Van Swan, at several international conferences.at severalinternational and Apparel, Textileand of Journal and consumption agenda. sustainable production the furthermore, and textiles and consumer the in design. clothing and textile sustainable University, Aalto at candidate doctoral and designer textile a is Niinimäki Kirsi Biographies experi­ individuals’ at look A – clothes ‘Favorite (1995). A. Raunio, Richins, M. (2008). ‘Consumption emotions’. In S egal, L. D. and Fulton and D. L. Segal, S F.(2009). Rizzo, S take, take, olomon, M., Bamossy, G. and Askegaard, Askegaard, and G. Bamossy, M., olomon, chifferstein, H. and Zwartkruis and H. chifferstein, alker, oodward, oodward, Practice. London:Earthscan. products’. JournalofSustainableDesign,3,101–107. Lifetime through Product Design. satisfaction: Anewconcept’.JournalofMarketing,40(2),25–33. ence of clothing’. In In clothing’. of ence of Textiles, Clothing and Craft Design Conference. Conference. Design University ofHelsinki,179–194. Craft and Clothing Textiles, of Proceedings Aspects: Environmental and Cultural Psychological, Hekkert, Behaviour. A European Perspective, 2 Society Lincoln, Education Ltd. 21–39. (eds). D. Miller, and of the 41 measurement and interpretation of user experience’. implications’. design International JournalofDesign,2(3),1–13. and measurement attachment: product per progettarecongliutenti.Milan:FrancoAngeli. 399–422. Ergonomics Society. 3 rd and has presented her research her presented has and Production Cleaner of Journal edn.ThousandOaks,CA:SagePublication,443–466. E. and Combs, L. (1976). ‘Product performance and consumer R S. (2006). . E , New Mexico. Mexico. New , School of Art and Design. In her research she focuses on . (2005). ‘Qualitative case study’. In Norman, K. D. and and D. K. Norman, In study’. case ‘Qualitative (2005). . Y

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185 The Design Journal 186 The Design Journal Kirsi NiinimäkiandIlpoKoskinen Mattelmäki) andLab,Field,Showroom(2011). and their constructivecriticismandcomments. this of editors the thank to like would authors The Acknowledgement Email: [email protected] Tel: +358503296021 Department, POBOX31000,FI-00076Aalto,Finland. Koskinen Ilpo Email: [email protected] Tel: +358405539414 Finland. Design Department, Niinimäki Kirsi Addresses forCorrespondence the books the Aalto University, programme at University of Art and Design Helsinki in 1999 (currently Koskinen Ilpo (2003, edited with Katja Battarbee and Tuuliand Battarbee Katja with edited (2003, Design Empathic (2002), Image Mobile , Aalto University University Aalto , , Aalto University University Aalto , is a sociologist who joined the industrial design design industrial the joined who sociologist a is School of Art and Design). His main publications are R esearch, PO BOX 31000, FI 31000, BOX PO esearch, (2007), Action in Multimedia Mobile S S chool of Art and Design, Design Design Design, and Art of chool chool of Art and Design, Design Design Design, and Art of chool pecial Issue for Issue Special - 00076 Aalto, Aalto, 00076