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DECEMBER 2018
WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2018 | 1 主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社 地址 : 北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心 邮编 100045 Published by China Intercontinental Press Address: 11th Floor South Building, HengHua linternational Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, Beijing 100045, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 陈陆军 Chen Lujun 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 付平 Fu Ping 编辑 Editor 朱莉莉 Zhu Lili 发行 Circulation 李若琳 Li Ruolin
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2 | DECEMBER 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Editor’s Note DECEMBER 2018 DEALS
We're giving away tickets to some of the very best Beijing The end of the year always feels a bit sentimental. Whether it was the best of times or the worst of times, they all seemed to fly by. Since I first arrived this parties, openings, past March, a lot has happened in Beijing. In this month's cover story, 2018: China's Year in Review (p. 38), we take a look back at this year's most significant moments. The lows were really low. From shows and talks all Didi scandals (man, they really couldn't catch a break this year) to more clo- sures of some of our favorite hangouts in the city (R.I.P. Great Leap #12 – we're month, alongside still not over that one), there were some rough times, no doubt. But the highs were pretty high. This year brought us some decent music festivals (well, the free meals, drinks, ones that weren't cancelled) and things we never asked for, like robot-run hot- pot restaurants (p. 57). Speaking of restaurants, our That's Beijing Food & Drink Awards will be taking discounts and prizes. place at Blue Note early this month, where we'll be celebrating the city's tastiest spots. Stay tuned for the full list of winners. All you have to do Elsewhere in the magazine, Sarah Forman explores Musicity, a WeChat mini program bringing cities to life through sound (p. 32); Edoardo Donati Fogliazza interviews author Graeme Sheppard of A Death in Peking (p. 36); and Andrew is scan the QR code Braun visits Beijing's latest steakhouse (p. 58). below, follow us on See you next year, WeChat and keep an eye out for your chance to win. You'll get some other great stuff on your phone too.
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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2018 | 3 6 CITY
7 OVERBOARD Beijing enforces strict regulations on hoverboards 10 CRAZY IN LOVE Will Crazy Rich Asians become a major hit in China? 12 VISIT GUIZHOU Revel in the natural scenery of 12 this off-beat destination 16 LIFE & STYLE 19 SHAPE UP This new gym opening will push you to your limit
20 GAME ON A board game coffee shop experiments with shapes 22 WISH LIST 19 Christmas gifts from China's indie brands
26 ARTS
32 SOUND OF THE CITY A WeChat mini program unlocks city soundtracks 34 FINAL COUNTDOWN The best albums of 2018, according to us 36 MURDER MYSTERY A policeman turned author investigates a cold case 34
50 EAT & DRINK 53 MIFAN OR MAFAN Cafes, train bars and robots 57 DIGITAL DINING Futuristic hotpot at Haidilao's new location 58 MEAT AND GREET A Shanghai-based steakhouse 58 moves to Beijing
4 | DECEMBER 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM 38 LOOKING BACK We reflect on China's ups and downs this year
30 ART OF ABSTRACTION An exhibit showcasing abstract art by Korean artists lands in China
54 PATIO PIONEERS The key players of Nali Patio, Sanlitun's nightlife hub
WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2018 | 5 CITY
GOING GREEN Make the most out of your trip to Guizhou, p10
Generation Gap Crazy Rich Asians Chinese Urban Dictionary p8 p10 p14 TALES OF THE CITY 7 - - | - DECEMBER 2018 WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM While iaomi s and other companies re While iaomi s and other ers that daibu vehicles are not intended for for not intended are ers that daibu vehicles and thus should purposes transportation or inside the be used in an open s uare the from away confines of a neighborhood, roads. in line with the gov the policy fall sponses to get the boards to initiative ernment’s current show to yet are customers their off the roads, sign of stopping. any growing their market share of the ‘sport share their market growing store In its official Taobao amusement tools. buy a notice reminding posted the company -
- - , es daibu laonian daibu che Hoverboards and other electric transporta Hoverboards The latest announcement regarding announcement regarding The latest Shanghai and Guangzhou have also rolled also rolled and Guangzhou have Shanghai plate. plate. in increasing been steadily have tion devices Xiaomi maker with electronics popularity, contraptions from public roads in 2016 and in 2016 public roads from contraptions 2017, respectively. commuting tools walking ) for ( substitute these new question whether has led some to with one Sina Weibo a bit excessive, are laws can sell them and buy you user wroting start ride them, once you can’t them but you purchasing after quit. to Only riding it’s hard Others called out the illegal. one is it now while of penalizing hoverboards hypocrisy the allow continuing to or cart wheelchair a high-powered sentially on the roads drive senior citizens, to used by times without a license often unchecked, ouslu announced. (In July 2017, the penalty 2017, ouslu announced. (In July ei was on the road a hoverboard riding for RMB5 ). or a fine up to ther a warning banning the motorized out similar measures, -
The latest announcement is by no means announcement is by The latest by Ryan Gandolfo Ryan by PENALTIES FOR HOVERBOARD USERS USERS HOVERBOARD FOR PENALTIES BEIJING INTRODUCES HARSHER HARSHER INTRODUCES BEIJING back to 2016 . However, the new regulations the new regulations 2016 . However, back to fine than previ higher impose a significantly hoverboards to get off the city’s roads dating get off the city’s to roads hoverboards the first ban of its kind implemented in the first ban of its kind implemented Beijing, with announcements calling for and confirmed the amount of the fine. violating traffic laws. Beijing s traffic police Beijing s traffic laws. violating traffic social media users of the rules also reminded using conventional skateboards, roller skates skates roller skateboards, using conventional will also be and similar equipment on roads department and result in a RMB2 fine. in a RMB2 fine. department and result that pedestrians The post concluded saying the device being confiscated by the Public by being confiscated the device supervision transportation Bureau s Security or other device on roadways will result in will result on roadways other device or Traffic and Safety Law states, the use of states, Law and Safety Traffic skateboard hoverboard, motorized any the roads of the capital city. of the capital city. the roads amendment on China’s The latest skateboards, hoverboards, unicycles and unicycles hoverboards, skateboards, navigating caught gadgets other motorized on November 1, the Beijing municipal on November electric fines for increased government Bad news for tech-savvy commuters – commuters tech-savvy for Bad news THE BUZZ
GENERATION GAP What has been a highlight for you this year? WANG, 25
HIGH-SPEED DELIVERY A high-speed train was converted to quickly deliver fresh goods purchased during 11/11. I think the highlight of my year would definitely be the time photo via news.sina.com.cn that I went skiing. I learned the basics last year, and I’ve been imagining how it feels to be able to slide down the steep slope with the snowy breeze on my face every night ever since. I drove to the ski resort almost every weekend – even until April, I think That s how much I loved it. I mean, it s hard not to feel a high when you get to experience a thrill e uivalent to flying. Many of the ski resorts have started to open for the winter season and I already went to one last weekend. I think this kind of ties up my year.
LI , 40
China recently announced plans to build its first Frosty Flights airport in Antarctica, three years after the country’s first polar airplane, ueying (meaning 'snow eagle') 6 1, began to make flights to the continent. As the Wow, time flies ow is it already the end of 2 18 southernmost continent is emerging as a region of I’m having a hard time recalling what has happened... serious global importance thanks to the wealth of I think I’ve contributed a lot to those around me this oil, gas and minerals which hide beneath its melt- year as a teacher. One of my highlights is that our school ing ice caps, getting a foothold there is a priority for counseling team successfully organized a college fair China. The country already has four research bases and a career day. I think this widened the horizons of in Antarctica, with two of them operating year- many of the students. Another one is when my son won round and the remaining two operating seasonally. the championship of an English proficiency contest in Beijing. You have no idea how these little creatures can make you so proud sometimes My last highlight is my annual crazy birthday celebration with my friends. It’s pretty funny that I’m still doing this with my buddies at my age, but we just love it. As told to Edoardo Donati Fogliazza
8 | DECEMBER 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY EDOARDO DONATI FOGLIAZZA / bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com
"I can overcome defeat, and when I get scolded, I immediately improve my 6,600 behavior" said a 5-year-old Shanghai boy (or, well, his parents) in his 15-page ...is the number of songs the China Audio-Video Copyright Association curriculum that was posted on Weibo by a famous blogger. The docu- (CAVCA) urged TV operators across the country to remove from ment went viral, leading to discussions on the competitive spirit that their systems due to copyright issues in a notice posted on October pervades preschool education in China. Concerned about this ‘self- 22. Among the listed songs are fan-favorites such as ‘Ten Years’ by introduction craze, Shanghai prohibited the use of similar CVs for the ong ong singer Eason Chan, Bubble by fellow ong ong musi- purpose of applying to private schools last February. cian G.E.M. and Listen to the Ocean by Taiwan singer A-Mei.
WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2018 | 9 CITY | FEATURE CRAZY OR NOT Will Crazy Rich Asians’ Success Translate in China? by Dominic Ngai
Adapted from Kevin Kwan’s 2013 novel of the same name, Crazy Rich Asians was this summer’s surprise box ofce smash hit in North America, earning praise for being the frst Hollywood studio production to feature a predominantly Asian cast since 1993’s Joy Luck Club. Just two months after its debut, the flm became the US’s top grossing romantic comedy in a decade (sixth highest of all- time), cashing in nearly USD174 million domestically as of mid-November. As the flm gears up for its theatrical release on the Chinese mainland, we speak with a couple of Chinese pop culture and history experts about the impact Crazy Rich Asians has had in the West, and whether it will translate to audiences in China.
10 | DECEMBER 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY
only scratching the surface of the issue, the My first impression of Crazy Rich Asians Chinese, But Not Really inner struggles of Asian American cultural was that it s a film about Chinese people, but identity are exposed through the lenses of China is basically absent in this world. I think Chinese the film's female protagonist. many mainland Chinese audiences might find In an op-ed for The Washington Post, it hard to identify with these characters. It’s writer enn Fang calls the film a watershed quite an awkward position to be in (for the It’s a Cinderella story as old as time. Rachel moment. For decades, actors of Asian descent film), Song says. The lack of big name cast Chu (Constance Wu), a young American-born have been depicted as racial stereotypes in members, coupled with the fact that it isn’t Chinese N professor, travels to Singapore American TV series and films, a criticism a big budget action hero flick that normally with her longtime boyfriend Nick Young that has consistently been voiced inside and performs well here, he adds, might further ( enry Golding) for his best friend s wed- outside of Hollywood. The story of Rachel, hinder its success in the Middle ingdom. ding and to meet the family, only to discover in particular, serves as an anchor for Fang Elsewhere in Asia, Crazy Rich Asians also they’re one of the wealthiest clans of the to relate to her own experience of trying to drew some criticisms after its release. While island nation. navigate between the worlds of being both it scored points for promoting racial diver- The movie is a visual feast that combines Chinese and American. Crazy Rich Asians sity in ollywood, Singaporean audiences all the typical rom-com trappings, along with is a rare example of Asian Americans taking accused the film of doing the exact opposite a healthy dose of family drama. Filled with the reins to tell a story completely from our with its representation of their country – conflicts fueled by generational, cultural and own perspective, she wrote. It succeeds by where the film is set – by focusing on just its socioeconomic differences, scenes are spiced drawing inspiration from our real lives. Chinese residents and virtually ignoring the up with a generous sprinkle of Singapore s Which begs the uestion – will a film Malay and Indian ethnic groups who make dazzling modern cityscape and the fabulous that's largely based on the complexity of up nearly a quarter of the country’s total lifestyles of the ultra-rich. Westernized Chinese identity be a hit in population. But, for scholars like University of China But perhaps another telling sign of Wisconsin-Madison s Professor Shelly Chan, whether the film will be well-received in what makes Crazy Rich Asians stand out China can be found on Douban, the Chinese from other rom-coms is the novelty fac- version of Rotten Tomatoes, where the film tor of its ‘authentic cultural content’ that Lost in Translation? received an average rating of 3.5 stars and can only be achieved with a predominantly nearly 8,6 reviews before it was officially Western-born Asian cast and crew. The ong When Song Geng saw Crazy Rich Asians in out in theaters. One of the most popular re- ong-born Canadian historian, who special- ong ong over the summer, there were only views came from user ‘yvetterowe,’ who ex- izes in Chinese diaspora (people of Chinese about a dozen people in the movie theater. pressed her disapproval of the film, calling descent who live outside of Greater China), The much-hyped romantic comedy is the it a General Tso s chicken-style film about is particularly interested in the film s discus- city's 23rd highest grossing film of 2 18, Asians and signing off with an eye-rolling sions around the impact of the mass Chinese according to Box Office Mojo, earning just emoji. overseas migration during the 19th and 20th around SD2 million between late August Responding to all the negative reviews, centuries. and mid-October – a meager showing con- user ‘yangcongxixi’ sums up his thoughts Some of the conflicts stem from the po- sidering the movie’s critical and commercial (and ours) uite nicely The film is uite larization of Chinese identity and culture as triumph in North America. loud and funny, and they used a lot of Chinese a result of these departures and the subse- Song, an associate professor at niversity classic pop songs from different eras as the quent returns of these immigrants and their of ong ong s School of Chinese Studies, background music. I feel like I was in a super- descendants, Chan tells me. Throughout personally enjoyed the movie. Having writ- market in Chinatown somewhere. But I think most of the film, Rachel, an outsider born ten extensively about the portrayal of Asian a lot of people have missed the point. It’s not and raised in the S, finds it difficult to win men in mainstream media and pop culture, a movie about Asians or their identity… It’s the approval of Nick s Singaporean-Chinese he praises the film for creating nuanced and just a comedy about rich people. elders – namely his mother Eleanor (Michelle multi-layered characters. However, he’s not eoh) – who are portrayed as the guardians very optimistic about its box office earnings Crazy Rich Asians is now playing in major theaters of traditional culture and family values. While on the Chinese mainland. across China.
WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2018 | 11 CITY | TRAVEL
ome to a vibrant array of peo- ples and cultures, Guizhou is Halso one of China’s poorest and least developed provinces. As a result, it is regularly included as one of the Middle ingdom s off-beat travel des- tinations. However, the province offers the intrepid traveler a wealth of culi- nary delights, stunning natural scenery and cultural experiences to rival just about anywhere within the PRC s bor- ders. ere, we share five reasons you need to visit Guizhou, China s green corridor.
Meet the People Get Your Face Wet Search for E.T. Guizhou is often touted as one of China s Experience the raw power of nature at Mankind’s search for intelligent most ethnically diverse regions, with more uangguoshu Waterfall, one of East Asia s life in the universe has a powerful that 37 percent of the province s population largest waterfalls and the largest in China. tool in Guizhou province the Five- made up of people classified as members of A 74-meter drop on the Baishui River, hundred-metre Aperture Spherical an ethnic minority group. A visit here offers uangguoshu Waterfall and the wall of mist Radio Telescope, otherwise known as ample opportunities to engage with and it creates make for phenomenal photos. FAST. Set in a remote mountain val- learn about the region’s diverse peoples. In Located near the city of Anshun, the karst ley in Pingtang county, this massive the southeast of Guizhou, near the border landscape that surrounds the waterfall is telescope (the largest of its kind in the with Guangxi huang Autonomous Region, known for its abundance of caves, most world) can be accessed by bus from reside the Dong minority group, who are interesting among them a 13 -meter-long a nearby space museum and plan- famous for their ‘wind and rain bridges,’ hidden cave known as Shuiliandong, or etarium. While the aforementioned which are elaborate covered bridges, and Water-Curtain Cave. The geological for- museum is a tad tacky and, well, bor- their beautiful songs. One of China’s largest mation shares its name with the home ing by Western standards, the massive and oldest ethnic minorities, the Miao, also of Sun Wukong from the classic Chinese telescope itself is a sight to behold. call Guizhou home. They tend to reside in novel Journey to the West and the cave lies Visitors can walk up to its rim via a the province’s mountainous regions and are concealed behind the cascading water of series of well-maintained staircases in renowned for their intricate silver jewelry. uangguoshu Waterfall. approximately 1 to 15 minutes.
12 | DECEMBER 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM TRAVEL | CITY
GORGEOUS GUIZHOU Five Experiences in “China’s Green Corridor” by Matthew Bossons
Hit the Trail Feel the Burn As a mountainous region, Guizhou of- No trip to Guizhou would be complete fers outdoor enthusiasts no shortage without sampling the region’s most of phenomenal hiking opportunities. celebrated export Maotai. Referred to Our favorite is the Pingtang Tiankeng by CNN as China s de facto national Geopark, which is located about an li uor, Maotai is a brand of baijiu dis- hour s drive from FAST. Traveling on tilled from fermented sorghum. While the park s boardwalks, you'll get to see you can find this boozy elixir across various caves (some of which can be ex- China, a trip to its home turf allows for plored ), cliffs and the occasional snake a visit to the Maotai distillery, which along the way, and eventually arrive at offers tours and tastings. the edge of a massive sinkhole. Hiking in Pingtang Tiankeng Geopark is man- ageable for people of all ages, and the trail is dotted with restrooms in case ‘nature calls.’
WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | DECEMBER 2018 | 13 CITY | CHINESE URBAN DICTIONARY