GJVCB

Most of ’s are grown in the Grand Junction and Palisade areas due to the climate. Local scenery and pair well.

RIPE FOR THE DRINKING and each receives minimal rainfall, Colorado wine industry’s biggest for water, we have greater control Most of Colorado’s -growing making irrigation a necessity but challenge. Growers can face harsh over the ripening and develop- action takes place in the Grand mildew much less of a concern. winter temperatures and untimely ment of the grapes than if we left Valley American Viticultural Area Another popular growing region spring or fall frosts. Still, these very everything up to nature. … Our soils (AVA), about 40 miles east of the is the West Elks AVA, which has issues can also offer many benefits, are more alkaline and therefore more Utah border. Here, De Beque been likened to the Provence region says Doug Caskey, executive direc- akin to Europe.” Canyon cedes to the fruit orchards of France and encompasses the tor of the Colorado Wine Industry in the valley of Palisade (where those area between the old mining town Development Board. “The low GRAPES OF THE WESTERN SLOPE famous Georgia-rivaling peaches of Bowie, just 35 miles west of humidity and lack of precipitation Because of the high altitude in the come from). The Colorado River cir- nearby Delta. Known as the North means we have very little disease Grand Valley and West Elks AVAs, culates air to the region throughout Fork Valley (the north fork of the and pest pressure, so we use very few Colorado-grown grapes get more the year, and the Grand Mesa—the Gunnison River runs through the chemicals in growing our grapes,” he sun exposure. “Grape skins can get world’s largest flattop mountain, fertile basin), the region is home to explains. “Since we rely on irrigation sunburned,” explains Sally Mohr, a covering hundreds of square miles— the largest concentration of organic provides shelter to crops cultivated farms in the . Like on the valley floor. For frame of Palisade, the countryside is filled ention Colorado and certain things will imme- reference, the town of Palisade sits at with small-scale, family-owned diately spring to mind: epic skiing; the iconic 4,800 feet; the mesa rises more than orchards growing cherries, apples, Red Rocks Amphitheatre; rugged, snow-capped 6,000 feet above sea level. peaches, pears, apricots, plums and mountains. Perhaps you think of Coors Field, cat- This combination of geological wine grapes. IN THEIR Mtle and cowboys. The region is also recognized as a destination to wonders makes for a climate that The growing season in the Grand indulge in a quality meal. Lamb and beef, Olathe sweet corn, juicy averages about 10 degrees warmer Valley AVA is short compared to Palisade peaches and award-winning microbrews are just a few of than along what is referred to as the those of , Tuscany and the state’s claims to fame. , which comprises the Bordeaux. And in the West Elks Own Skins Residents and visitors alike not only want, but expect to have more densely populated areas of the AVA, growers’ window of oppor- Colorado vintners are slowly but fresh, locally sourced ingredients used in their dishes when dining state from Fort Collins to Colorado tunity is even slimmer: Due to the out around town. It only makes sense that this philosophy would Springs. It’s here that the vast major- higher elevations (5,400 to 7,000 steadily finding their footing in the extend to its beverage offerings—including wine. Local winemak- ity (85 to 95 percent) of the state’s feet), the growing season starts ers are working to fill the growing demand, and much like grapes are grown. The physical quali- later and sees 30 percent fewer days wine industry. has exploded onto the national culinary scene in recent years, ties of the area are often compared to between spring and fall frosts than western Colorado is gaining a reputation among wine aficionados the Mendoza Province wine region the Grand Valley. BY DAVINA VAN BUREN as a must-visit locale for premium pours. in Argentina: Both areas have rivers, Climate is often seen as the Balistreri in Denver makes full-bodied whites and reds.

32 BESPOKE CONCIERGE WINTER 2014/15 33 GJVCB COURTESY OF COLORADO WINE INDUSTRY DEVELOPMENT BOARD COURTESY OF COLORADO WINE INDUSTRY

Harvest time for local grapes The Infinite Monkey Theorem’s owner helped change state kegging laws. Taking a fun approach, The Infinite Monkey Theorem wine comes in cans.

the world.” One of the most unique there aren’t always enough Colorado a reflection of terroir, but of the Parsons—a staunch environmen- watch when it comes to production. coming out of Colterris is its grapes to go around. This year’s grower’s style.” tal advocate—was influential in And even though the state’s wine Coral white — harvest, in fact, was down about At The Infinite Monkey changing Colorado law to allow any scene is relatively young in compar- an unusual and sophisticated wine 50 percent from a full crop due to Theorem in Denver’s trendy River winery in the country to send their ison to others, it’s already accrued to begin with, but especially so winter damage and spring frosts, North Art District, owner Ben finished wine to the state for kegging some heavy-hitting fans. coming from a Colorado . forcing some of the state’s wineries Parsons says the winemaker’s modus and local distribution. The Infinite “There are some beautiful Other grapes that do well in the to purchase grapes from California operandi is to shake up the wine Monkey Theorem wines come in Colorado wines that I enjoy just region are , and and Washington. industry. “I wanted to disrupt an lightweight, recyclable aluminum as much as any wine from any- . “In the cooler parts of the Instead of growing their own industry that is very sterile, boring, cans, which are wildly popular with where in the world,” says Mohr, state, flourishes and is made grapes, many Colorado vintners romanticized and pretentious, and sustainably minded locals. “The wine the well-traveled master sommelier. in both dry and sweeter styles,” infuse their unique styles into the try to have fun with it, hence the industry is 4,000 years old,” Parsons Plus, the local scenery is hard to Caskey says. “The Bordeaux varie- winemaking process. At Balistreri name, label, the can and everything explains. “For some reason, they’re beat, and the picture-perfect views ties all do well here, from sauvignon Vineyards, one of owner Julie that we do here,” he says. still using corks and glass bottles.” that draw millions of adventurers to blanc and semillon on the white Balistreri’s goals is to produce wines The company’s wine-on-tap It’s renegade winemakers like the state each year are every bit as Some say the soil in Colorado lends a spiciness to many wines made from grapes grown there. side to and petit ver- the same way her father, whose program has been very success- Parsons who are spurring the dramatic when viewed over the rim dot on the red side. is family hails from Sicily, always ful in Colorado restaurants, and region’s growth, making it an area to of a glass of Colorado wine. C

Colorado-based master sommelier and seldom bottled by itself elsewhere, created his homemade wines. “Our MCBOAT PHOTOGRAPHY OF COLTERRISCOURTESY WINES Spotlight on Colorado Wines only the second woman in the United often due to its susceptibility to white wines are made the same way Although production doesn’t take place in town, visitors can sam- States to receive the title. “In their mildew and other diseases. we make our reds—fermented on ple many varietals from Colorado winemakers at these premier defense, the skin thickens, which pro- and the other Rhone varieties also the skins,” she says. “They are unre- Aspen restaurants. vides extra nutrients and tannins—and do well.” fined and unfiltered.” The method thus flavors—in red wines.” “What is really showing promise makes for a more full-bodied white Element 47: Boasting 20,000 bottles in its wine cellar, Aspen’s Colterris Wines in Palisade spe- is , which is also grown at than some wine lovers may be Little Nell is a regular on Wine Spectator’s Grand Award list. cializes in those expressive reds. altitude in Argentina,” Mohr adds. drawn to. Element 47, the AAA Five Diamond property’s fine dining restau- The winery, which grows only “There is a lot of experimentation Winemakers like Balistreri also rant, serves breakfast, lunch, dinner and Colorado wines. traditional Bordeaux-style grapes, with different grapes from other “vineyard-designate” and label (element47aspen.com) gets its name from the combination major wine-growing regions from their wines, meaning they refrain Matsuhisa: If you’ve dined in one of chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s many of Colorado and “terris,” meaning around the world to see what is best from mixing grapes from different restaurants, you know his cuisine is simple but innovative. Don’t “from the land” in Latin. “All of our suited to this climate.” vineyards to create a blend. This miss the chance to indulge in his signature dish, black cod with miso, wines will always be from Colorado year, about 70 percent of Balistreri’s served alongside a glass of The Infinite Monkey Theorem’s syrah or grapes. That’s important to us,” A QUESTION OF TASTE grapes came from Colorado’s chardonnay. (matsuhisaaspen.com) says Theresa High, who owns and Not every Colorado vintner is lucky Western Slope. “The unique thing Pine Creek Cookhouse: Pick your mode of transport— manages Colterris with her hus- enough to have his or her own about Colorado grapes is that many cross-country skis, snowshoes or horse-drawn carriage—and band, Scott. “Palisade has a wine vineyard. The local wine industry is of the wines have a spiciness to them head to the elegant, secluded Pine Creek Cookhouse, which serves reputation that goes back over 100 just beginning to come into its own because of the soil,” Balistreri says. a lively blend called Gunslinger from Ruby Trust Cellars in nearby years. The growing conditions are and, according to urban wineries “Syrah grapes grown 2 miles apart Castle Rock. (pinecreekcookhouse.com) very different from anywhere else like Denver’s Balistreri Vineyards from each other can be completely in the state, let alone the U.S. or and Infinite Monkey Theorem, different. We want to taste not only Harvest party at Balistreri Vineyards Palisade-based Colterris Wines are made from Colorado grapes.

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