Aristotle, 112, 118, boredom, 117–18 Index 245–46, 253–54 bourbon aroma, 140, 203, 227–28, brands, 128–30 249–53 ingredients, 126–27 association of ideas, 130–35 legal production require- atomic number, 184 ments, 6, 191 authenticity, 40–41, 46–49, as natural kind, 191 53–55, 310–16 production process, 25 award winners, 305. See reputation of, 3–4 also evaluation sales of, 3 vs. Scotch, 5–7 Aberlour, 48, 232–33 Bacardi group, 50 See also specifi c brands Absinthe Brasserie and Bar, balance, 148, 203 Bourdain, Anthony, 225 San Francisco, 97 Ballantine’s, 30 Bowmore, 269, 289, 291, absolutes, 198–201 Balmoral Castle, 66–67 295, 299, 325–26 accountability, 264–65 Banks, Iain, 323, 326–27 Boyd, Neil, 53–54 adaptation, 271–72 barley, 23, 59, 126, 290 Bradley, Ben, 274–75 aesthetic evaluations, barrels. See casks brand ambassadors, 332 137–38, 141–50 Barrier, James, 43 brand communities, 331–32 aesthetics, applied, 124 Barton Brands, 195 branded products, 331 aesthetic value, Bar Zoetrope, 305–7 brands 272–74, 283 Basil Hayden’s, 94 blended , 29 aesthetic virtues, 243, 246, Baudrillard, Jean, 310–15 bourbon, 128–30 249–53 Beattie, Scott, 99–10 Scotch , 28–30, aging beer, 60 44–46, 320–22 bourbon, 25, 127 “Before He Cheats,” 76–77 Braunschweig, , 23, 25, Begg, John, 67 Hieronymous, 59 26, 27–28 beliefs, dispositional, Brown-Forman, 132 See also casks 261–63 Bruichladdich A.H. Hirsch Reserve 16, 4, 5 Bell’s, 45 authenticity claims, 51, 54 Albert of Saxe-Coburg- BenRiach, 41 characteristics of, 291, Gotha, 66–67 Benromach, 327 293, 294 Alterman, Sara Faith, 82–83 Bentham, Jeremy, 245 innovation, 37, 277 Amazon women, myth of, benzaldehyde, 201 Michael Jackson’s 78–79 Bird, Isabella L., 302 ratings, 228 American Distilling bitters, 93, 94–95, 100 location of distillery, 289 Institute, Whiskey Black Rock, 319 malted barley Conference, 73–74, Blanton’s, 3, 129 source, 296 79–80 blended whisky as malt whisky American whiskey. See brands, 29 pioneer, 36 bourbon history of, 42–43, 68–69 Norrie Campbell Tribute anatman, 210–19 homogeneity of, 31 Bottling, 294 Ancient Age, 129 importance to distilleries, pronunciation, 36 Angostura bitters, 94 272 Buchanan, James, 43 Angostura Limited, 269 ingredients, 22, 25, 69 Buddhism, 210–19 Anna Christie, 74COPYRIGHTEDJapanese, 309 MATERIALBuffalo Trace, 127, 128, Annandale Distillery, 34 origin claims, 25 129, 195, 209–10 Antiquary, 35 sales, 27 Bunnahabhain, 271, 289, Appadurai, Arjun, 314 smaller companies, 36 291, 293 appellations, 28–29 blind tastings, 129–30, Burns, Robert, 62–63 applied aesthetics, 124 133, 146 Bushmills, 2 aqua vitae, 59–62 blogs, 332 Aquinas, Thomas, 112 bodily needs, 110–11 Cadenhead, 165–66 Ardbeg, 168, 174, 289, body, 228 Californian , 6–7 291, 299 Bo’ness Distillery, 308 Campbeltown, 29, arete, 243 Booker’s, 131 174, 308

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Canadian Club, 109–10 Cumming, Lewis, 67 Douglas Laing & , 2 Cutty Shark, 69 Company, 41 Cantina, San Francisco, 100 Cynar, 100 Dowd, Maureen, 73 Caol Ila, 36, 174, 243, 251, Cyrus, Healdsburg, drinkboston.com, 84 281, 289, 291 Calif., 99 drinking, vs. savoring, Cardhu, 29, 62, 67–68, 327 110–13 Cardow, 62, 67–68 Dagestan, 316 dryness, 127 Carpano vermouth, 94, 100 Daiches, David, 318 dualism, 111–13 casks Dallas Dhu, 167, durian, 225–26 fl avor impact, 156, 158 174, 327 inconsistencies, 23, 202 Dalton, Jerry, 132 Eagle Rare, 129 , 294 Descartes, René, 112 earthiness, 155, 158 wood type and descriptive school, of Edinburgh, 61, 63–64, 165 complexity, 127–28 whiskey rhetoric, Edradour, 37 categories, 179–80 138–39, 141, 142, Edrington Group, 33 cats, 209–10 143–44, 149–50 elements, 184 ceilidh, 319 Dewar, John, 43 Elgin, 167–68, 307–8 cereals, 60 Dewar, Tommy, 43, 45 elitism, 282–83 Charles Medley, 269 Dewar’s, 40, 44, 45–46, Elliot, Robert, 278 Checkland, Olive, 304 48–49, 50 Elmer T. Lee, 127, 129 cherry notes, 201 Dewar’s White Label, 30 Embury, David, 102 Chivas Brothers, 45 Enlightenment, , 30, 45, 69 authenticity of Scottish, 323 chocolate, 166–67, 168–69 products, 50 epic Manhattan drinkers, choice of whiskey, Caol Ila marketing, 36 91–93, 98–101 123–35. See also taste Cardhu to blended esters, 250 preferences brand, 29 evaluation City by the Sea, 116 distillery openings, 34 by critics, 205–6 Clark, Lauren, 84, 85 lifestyle marketing, 45 language, 137–50 Classic Malts Web site, 53 Malt Advocates course, objective measurements, Clinton, Hillary, 72–73, 84 52–53 201–2 Coca-Cola, 22, 244–45 Diary of a Highland Lady by ordinary people, cocktails, revival of, (Grant), 63–64 206–7 84, 102 Dickens, Charles, 68–69 quality, 198–201 Coffey, Aeneas, 42 dispositional beliefs, scores, 228–38 , 43 261–63 shopper types, 196–97 Coleridge, Samuel Taylor, uncertainty in, 197–98, 46–47, 55 bourbon, 25 202–5 color, 227 early farm, 61–63 evaluative school, of whis- competition, 271–72 illicit at Glenlivet, 64–65 key rhetoric, 139–42 complexity, 127–28 Islay whisky, 289–90 Excise Act (1823), 42 congeners, 201 in Middle Ages, 59 experts, 205–7, 226–38. conglomerates, 32–37 Scotch whisky, 23, 26– See also tasting notes; consistency, 200–201 27, 50–52 specifi c experts Cor, John, 60 single malts, 295 explanations, 185, 187 cork taint, 200 technical innovation, 50 corn, 126 traditional methods, , 60 Craddock, Harry, 93, 269–70 false precision, 231 102–3 distilleries Famous Grouse, 30, 69 Cragganmore, 164, 232 closings, 269, 281–82 farming, 61–63 Craigellachie, 170–72 Islay whiskies, 269, 289, features, 153–55 critics, 205–7, 226–38. 324–27, 328, 329–30 Felten, Eric, 82, 84 See also tasting notes; of Malt Whisky Trail, Female Chauvinist Pigs specifi c critics 329 (Levy), 83 , 72–73 preservation argument, femininity, 83 culture, 322, 324–33 270, 272–83 festivals, 70, 319, 330–31 Cumming, Elizabeth, species analogy, 271–72 Fiddich river, 171–73 67–68 Distillers Company Limited Fields, W. C., 1 Cumming, Helen, 62 (DCL), 40 fi lm, 74–75, 116, Cumming, John, 62 diversity, 274–77 256–57, 311

362

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The Fine Art of Mixing with Coke story, 244–45 Ichiro’s Malt, 305 Drinks (Embury), 102 history of, 42, 63–66 ideal Scotch, Hegelian fi nish, 228, 277 on Malt Whisky Trail, approach, 152–61 fl avor 327 Illicit Distillation () authenticity of, 53–55 production numbers, 49 Act (1822), 42 cask impact, 156, 158 provenance and authen- illicit whisky making, 62, and cask type, 156, 158 ticity claims, 49–50, 55 64–66 detection of, 169, 250–53 VIP tours, 48–49 immigration, women’s for ideal Scotch based Glenmorangie, 36, 248, 277 whiskey culture on Hegelian logic, Glen Moray, 327 emergence as, 81–84 154–61 Glen Spey, 44 immorality, 256–67 identifi cation of, Glenury Royal, 35 indulgence, in whisky, 154, 203 G & M, 167–68 208–19 impact of origin on, God, existence of, 172–73 informal logic, 234–36 24–26 Godfrey, Brett, 225 innovation, 277 measurement, 201–2 goodness in variety, 274–77 intersubjectivity, 144, 147 preference for based Grant, Lady Elizabeth of intrinsic value, 273 on price, 47 Rothiemurchas, , 2–3 terms, 126–28, 153, 63–64, 65 ironic riddles, 117 250–51 Grant, William, 67–68 Islay whiskies See also taste preferences; Grant’s, 30 brands, 29 tasting notes Guide to Single Malt Caol Ila marketed as, 36 fl avored whisky, 53–54, Scotch ( Jackson), 224, collectible, 319 270, 275–77 229–31 cultural background, Florida State University, Guild of Surgeon 324–27, 329 Department of Barbers, 61 distilleries, 269, 289, Chemistry, 52 324–27, 328, 329–30 food preferences and , 35 distinctive qualities, 155, aversions, 287–89, Hakodate, 302–4 287, 289–97, 324–25 297–300 Hakushu, 309 taste preference for, form, 154 hangovers, 208–9, 215–16 287–89, 297–300 French cognac, 43 happiness, 120, 244–46, tourism, 318–19 French wines, 6–7, 253–54 See also specifi c distill- 68–69, 190 Harley Owners Group eries friendship, 254–55 (HOG), 321 Isle of Islay, 318–19, fruitiness, 157 Hazelburn Distillery, 308 324. See also Islay Fuji Gotemba, 305, 309 heart, 188–89 whiskies funding, 144–47 Heaven Hill, 128, 129 future self, 208–9, hedonistic paradox, Jackson, Michael, 152, 215–17, 219 109–10, 116–20 164, 169, 174, 224, Hegel, G. W. F., 137, 226–34, 291, 293–94 Gaelic, 2, 61–62 152–61 James I, 2 Garbo, Greta, 74 Heisenberg Uncertainty James IV, 60 geographic boundaries, Principle, 197–98, 205 Japanese whisky 190–92 Hibiki, 305, 311 authenticity focus, George IV, 63–64 Highland Park, 174, 280, 310–16 geosmin, 200 293 award winners, 24, 305 Gilbey, Walter, 44 Highland Scotch, 29, 155 current status, 305–7, Gilmore, James, 46 The Highland Whisky Still 310 glassware, 249 (Landseer), 65 early fakes, 302–4, Glencairn glassware, 249 Hills, Phillip “Pip,” 250, 312–13 Glenfarclas, 36, 52, 327 293–94 history of, 307–9 Glenfi ddich, 36, 48, histories, 2, 42–44, whisky term use, 2 67–68, 70, 171, 327 59–71, 278–83, 307–9 J&B, 30, 45 Glen Garioch, 174, 251, Hollinger, Jeff, 94 Jefford, Andrew, 290, 293–94 Hoosiers, 116 295, 327 Glenglassaugh, 34, 269 Horigami, Atsushi, 305, 306 Jim Beam, 94, 125–26, 128, Glengoyne, 48 Hume, David, 6, 131, 129, 195 Glen Grant, 170–72, 327 133–34, 135, 252 “John Barleycorn: A Glenlivet Husserl, Edmund, 137 Ballad” (Burns), 63

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Johnnie Walker, 30, 44, location. See origin mint notes, 157 45, 69 Lochnagar, 67 Miyagikyo, 309 Black Locke, John, 140 monks, 59–60 Label, 31–32 logic, Hegelian, 153–55 Monroe, Marilyn, 74 judgment, 140. See also London Scotsman, 66 , 68 evaluation , 308 Moscow Times, 316 Lost in Translation, 311 movies, 74–75, 116, Kalkofen, Misty, 85 Lowland Scotch, 29 256–57, 311 Kant, Immanuel, 6 LUPEC (Ladies United for Murray, Jim, 224, 228–34 karma, 210 the Preservation of music, 76–77, 219 Karuizawa, 305, 309 Endangered Cocktails), must characters, 200 Kentucky Bourbon 84–85, 87 Distillers, Ltd., 129 LVMH, 36 natural kinds, 180–92 Kilchoman, 269 lyrical Manhattan drinkers, natural laws, 185, 188 kinds, natural, 180–92 91–93, 95–98 Nettleton, J. A., 308 Kleinbaum, Abby, 78–79 Nicomachean Ethics Knob Creek, 127 Macallan, 48, 160–61, 163, (Aristotle), 118, 245 Knockando, 44 169, 234, 319 Nikka, 305, 308–9, 313 knowledge, about Maker’s Mark, 2, 94, 126, Noe, Booker, 125–26, 195, distilleries, 278–83 127, 131, 132 203 Korsmeyer, Carolyn, 297 Mallya, Vijay, 54, 270, Noilly Prat, 94 Kundera, Milan, 90–91, 92, 275–77 nominalism, 182–83 95, 101 malting, 281 North of Scotland Malt Malt Maniacs, 224 Distillers Association, 44 Labrot & Graham, 132 malt whisky. See Scotch no-self claim, 211–19 Ladies United for the malt whisky notes, tasting. See tasting Preservation of Malt Whisky Companion notes Endangered Cocktails (Jackson), 152, 164, (LUPEC), 84–85, 87 174 Oban, 293 Ladyburn, 228, 230 Malt Whisky Trail, 322, objective evaluation, 140, Lagavulin 327–29, 330 147 experts’ ratings, 236 Manhattan, 90–103 Octomore, 277, 294 high regard for, 4 marketing Old Overholt, 94 vs. Hirsch, 5 brand communities, Old Potrero Rye, 94 location of distillery, 289 331–32 Old Weller, 129 malting, 281 branded products, 331 , 30 personal stories about, provenance and authen- origin 164, 174, 248 ticity claims, 40–41, conglomerates’ use of, Landseer, Edwin, 65, 68 46–55 35–36 Laphroaig scores at point-of- and culture, 322, 324–33 appeal to men, 77 purchase, 236–38 and fl avor, 24–26 brand ambassador, 332 Scotch whisky, 44–45 and ideal Scotch, 159 characteristics of, 169, Marston, William Moulton, importance of, 52–53 291, 295, 299 78 and knowledge/appre- location of distillery, 289 Martini & Rossi vermouth, ciation of whisky, malting, 269 94 278–83, 322 personal stories about, masculinity, 81–83 malt whiskies, 29 248–49 maturation. See aging pronunciation of, 169 McDonnell, Duggan, 100 pain, 109, 113–14, 116–20, tours, 325–26 meal accompaniment, 159 216 laws of nature, 185, 188 mean property thesis, palate, 228 Lee, Elmer T., 195 257–67 Panza, Sancho, 251 Leibniz, Gottfried, 275 medieval origins, 59–60 past experiences, 131–35 Lemoine, Yvan, 99 mental associations, 130–35 past self, 217–19 letters, for kinds example, metaphysics, 111, 180–92 peat notes, 157–58, 248, 181–83 Michter’s Distillery, 4 289–91, 292–98 Levy, Ariel, 83 Middle Ages, 59–60 Perbacco, San Francisco, 100 lifestyle marketing, 45 Mill, John Stuart, 113–16, perception, 149 , 60 120 Peychaud’s bitters, 94–95

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Phaedrus (Plato), Russell, Jimmy, 195 See also specifi c 179, 180 Russian whisky, 316 distilleries and brands phenols, 250, 290–91 Rusty Nail, 163 Scotch Whisky Phenomenology of Spirit rye, 93–94 Regulation, 29 (Hegel), 137 rye (ingredient), 127 Scottish Enlightenment, 323 phylloxera plague, 68–69 sea-air notes, 291–98 physiological evaluations, San Francisco Chronicle, 100 secondary qualities, taste as, 142, 148, 150 savoring, vs. drinking, 140, 187 Pine, Joseph, 46 110–13 second sample Plato, 112, 179 Sazerac cocktail, 95 syndrome, 204 Platonic forms, 95–96, 123 Sazerac Company, Inc., 129 self, existence of, 211–19 pleasure, 109–10, 113–20, Sazerac Rye, 94 senses, 249–53 245–46 Scapa, 166–67, 168–69, sex appeal, 77 Plotinus, 112 174 shape, 183 point-of-purchase Schwartz, Rob, 94 Shirofuda, 308 marketing, 236–38 scores, 228–38 Shiv, Baba, 47 political boundaries, Scotch , 22, 25, shoppers, types of, 196–97 190–92 43–44 Sibley, Frank, 143 Pomegranate Scotch malt whisky sight, 249 Manhattan, 100 aging, 27 simplicity, 127–28 Port Askaig Hotel, brands, 29 single malts 318–19 homogeneity of, 30–31 biographical account Port Ellen (town), 270, 327 ingredients, 22 of experiences with, Port Ellen distillery, 35, nonconglomerate success 162–75 174, 269, 281, 289 and potential, 33–34, distillation, 295 position to know, 236 36–37 history of, 42, 69–71 power, 79–80 origin claims, 25–26, 29 provenance and authen- predictions, 185, 187 See also single malts ticity marketing claims, preservation, arguments for, Scotch Malt Whisky 40–41 270, 272–83 Society, 30 rating scores, 228–34 price, 47 Scotch whisky Scottish dominance, 2–3 production vs. bourbon, 5–7 See also specifi c distill- bourbon, 6, 25, 191 brands, 28–30, 44–46, eries as natural kind prerequi- 320–22 skills, 247–48 site, 188–89 conglomerate smell, 140, 203, 227–28, Scotch whisky, 23–24, domination, 32–37 249–53 26–28, 36, 50–52 as cultural symbol, Smisson, Taylor, 305–6 property dualism, 112–13 320–21 Smith, George, 42, 49, Protestant Reformation, 61 exports, 27, 31, 34 65–66 provenance, in marketing, fi rst written reference, Smoked Manhattan, 99 40–41, 49–52 40, 60 smokiness, 155, 156–57, purists, 96–97 fl avor and origin of, 24–26 251 fl avored, 53–54 social activity, drinking quality, 198–201 history of, 2, 42–44, whisky as, 323–24 59–69 social capital, 323 ratings, 228–38 homogeneity, 30–31 Some Like It Hot, 74 rationality, 135, 153 ideal based on Hegelian sorting, 179–80 receptivity, 125 approach, 152–61 soul, 112 Regan, Gary, 100–101 ingredients, 22–23 species, distilleries as, religious experience, legal requirements, 6, 24 271–74, 277, 279, 172–74 marketing, 44–45 281, 283 The Republic (Plato), 95–96 as natural kind, 190–91 Spey river, 62, 171–73 rhetoric, 138–43 production numbers, 27 Speyside Cooperage, 327 rigid designators, 186, 189 production process, Speyside whisky, 29, 166, Rittenhouse, 94 23–24, 26–28, 36, 293–94, 307, 327–28 rituals, 333 50–52 spiciness, 155, 157, 251 Rosebank, 35, 269, 281 provenance and Spirits Act (1860), 43 Royal Commission on authenticity marketing spiritual experience, Whiskey (1908-09), 44 claims, 40–41, 46–55 172–74

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Springbank, 37, 174 Tennessee whiskey, 3. See whiskey, etymology of, 2, Stanford University Business also bourbon 61–62 School, 47 terroir, 24, 41, 296–97, whiskey bars, 3, 305–6 St. Augustine, 112 322. See also origin Whiskey Bible (Murray), Stein, Robert, 42 tourism 224, 228–31 Stepford Wives, 75 festivals, 70, 319, 330–31 Whiskeys of the World Stevenson, Robert Louis, Isle of Islay, 318–19, 328 Expo, 86 58, 69 Malt Whisky Trail, 327, whisky, etymology of, 2–3, Stewart, Jon, 73 328 61–62 stigmas, 82 VIP tours, 48–49 Whisky Magazine, 141, stills, 42, 62 visitor centers, 48, 167, 224, 305 St. Magdalene, 35 327 Whyte & Mackay, 54 stories, about distilleries, Tullibardine Brewery, 60 Wild Turkey, 94, 127, 128, 278–83 typicality, 139 129, 131, 195 Strathisla, 327, 328 William Grant & Sons, 33, , 44 UK Customs & Excise, 27 34, 68, 70 strength, 76–77 Ulrich, Laurel Thatcher, Windmill Lounge, Dallas, stuff@night, 82–83 78–79, 87 101 subjective evaluation, 140, uncertainty, 197–98, 202–5 wine 141, 142, 147, 206 Underwired, 75 appellations, 28 substance dualism, 112 Underwood, Carrie, 76–77 Californian, 6–7 subtlety, 141 Unforgiven, 256–57 fl avor subjectiveness, 251 Suntory, 305, 308, of India, 54, French, 6–7, 68–69, 190 309, 311 270 growth of category, 54 surgeon barbers, 61 Usher, Andrew, 42–43, price and fl avor prefer- sweetness, 127, 251 68, 69 ence study, 47 Utilitarianism (Mill), terroir, 24, 41, 296–97, Taketsuru, Masataka, 304, 113–14 322 307–9 varietals, 294–95 Talisker, 53, 174, 293, 299 value, aesthetic, 272–74, women Tamnavulin, 34 283 at American Distilling taste, sense of, 249–53 variety, goodness in, 274– Institute’s Whiskey taste buds, 249–50 77, 283 Conference, 73–74, taste preferences Vat 69, 35 79–80 association of ideas, vermouth, 94 Clinton’s shot of Crown 130–35 Victorian era, 43, 44, Royal, 72–73 change in, 288–89, 66–67 movie portrayals of 297–300 VIP tours, 48–49 whiskey-drinking, psychology of, 128–30 virtuous whisky drinkers, 74–75 subjectiveness, 126–28, 243–55 whiskey culture of, 76–88 140, 187, 198–99, 203 visitor centers, 48–49, 167, Wonder Woman, 78 tasting notes 327 Woodford Reserve, 5–6, assessment with informal , 54 100 logic, 224–25, 234–36 Vya, 94 wood notes, 127, 228 of experts, 231–34 Woolf, Virginia, 79 language use, 225–28 Walker, Alexander, 43 World Cocktail Week, 84 point-of-purchase infor- Wall Street Journal, 82, 84 World Whiskies Conference, mation, 236–38 Walsh, Paul, 45 53–54 scores, 228–38 Walsh, Rhiannon, 86–87 World Whisky Awards, 305 tastings Washington Post, 84 as aesthetic practice, water, 23 Yamazaki Distillery, 308 146–47 Web sites, 332 yeast, 23 blind tastings, 129–30, Well-Behaved Women Yoichi whisky, 305, 133, 146 Seldom Make History, 308–9 groups, 174–75 78–79 TCA (trichloroanisole), 200 wheat, 126 Zoetrope, 305–7

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