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Lake Baikal: Krasnoyarsk to Ulan-Ude

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Lake Baikal: Krasnoyarsk to Ulan-Ude ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lake Baikal: Krasnoyarsk to Ulan-Ude Why Go? Includes If you’ve made it this far from Moscow or Běijīng, this Krasnoyarsk ................172 1500km ribbon of rail and sleeper is where things get in- Divnogorsk ..................179 teresting. Arguably the most varied stretch of the line, bid Irkutsk .........................179 farewell to your provodnitsa (carriage attendant) along its Listvyanka .................. 188 length for some of the most memorable experiences Siberia has to offer. Port Baikal ..................192 Most travellers making only a single stop on their Trans- Olkhon Island ..............193 Sib odyssey do so in Irkutsk, surely Siberia’s most engag- South Baikal & the ing city. Only a smidgen over 350 years old, this grand city Tunka Valley ................195 packs in heaps of history. When you tire of ornate facades, Ulan-Ude .....................197 stuccoed palaces and streets of traditional timber dwellings, Eastern Baikal ............203 glorious Lake Baikal, the unrivalled highlight of any rail trip across Russia, is just a short bus ride away. When the tracks finally peel away from Baikal’s mind- boggling vistas, Trans-Sibbers find themselves in the Re- public of Buryatiya, an exotically Asian retreat of Buddhist Route Info temples and shamanist traditions, increasingly coming un- ¨ Distance: 1544km der the gravitational pull of southern neighbour Mongolia. ¨ Duration: 24 hours ¨ Time zones: Moscow +7, Moscow +8 When to Go Irkutsk °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 6/150 Best Places to 20/68 Stay & Eat 10/50 4/100 0/32 ¨ Belka Hostel (p190) -10/14 -20/-4 ¨ Iris (p176) 2/50 -30/-22 ¨ Mergen Bator (p200) -40/-40 ¨ -50/-58 0 Nikita’s Homestead (p194) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Kochevnik restaurant Snuggle Go ice fishing Join (p185) Nov–Mar Mar Jul & Aug into a Russian on Lake Baikal holidaying Rus- ¨ Rassolnik (p186) Railways blanket when Siberia’s sians on the sandy and watch the harsh winter turns beaches of Lake snowbound Sibe- its surface hard as Baikal’s eastern rian landscapes. steel. shore. 169 0 200 km 0 120 miles Ch Main Trans-Siberian Route Ust-Ilimsk una Alternative Routes Reservoir R i v Irkutsk er sey Region ni Bratsk Ye ver Kansk Ri (Padunskie Krasnoyarsk Ilansky Porogie) Bratsk Gidrostroitel Zaozernaya Bratsk Tayshet Anzyobi Tsentralny To Divnogorsk (5km) Bratsk ver Ri er Sea v im r Il Ri e v an Ri K Nizhneudinsk ra ga Tulun An ver Ri a Sayany Ly Zima Krasnoyarsky Mountains Territory er Riv To Olkhon Oka Island; Yergaki Barguzin Mountains Polovina Valley Usole-Sibirskoe Tuva Angarsk Republic Tunka Listvyanka BAIKALAKE Valley Irkutsk Circumbaikal Railway Arshan Nilova Kultuk Pustyn nisey Mondy Slyudyanka Maly Ye Kyren Baikalsk MONGOLIA Port Baikal L To Ivolginsky (Ivolga) Datsan Lake Baikal : K RASNOYARSK TO U TO RASNOYARSK Krasnoyarsk to Ulan-Ude Highlights 1 Gazing out across the 3 Admiring the 6 Navigating a section southern shores of Lake ostentatious 19th-century of the Great Baikal Trail Baikal from a slow train architecture of Irkutsk (p191) between Listvyanka between Irkutsk and Ulan- (p179), once known as the and Bolshie Koty Ude, possibly the most ‘Paris of Siberia’ 7 Enjoying a couple attractive section of the 4 Walking, cycling or of meditative days on L entire Trans-Sib line hitching a lift across frozen wonderful Olkhon Island AN-UDE 2 Taking the ultimate Lake Baikal (p193) or getting away Trans-Sib branch line trip on 5 Mooching with the from it all in the often the Circumbaikal Railway monks at Buddhist temple overlooked Barguzin Valley (192) for some stunning Ivolginsky (Ivolga) Datsan (p205) Baikal vistas (p203) 8 The Route the 1km-long Yenisey River bridge, whose 1898 original won a gold medal at the 1900 Paris KRASNOYARSK TO TAYSHET Expo (along with the Eiffel Tower). The Yenisey 4098km from Moscow traditionally marks the unofficial border between Eastern and Western Siberia. Heading east out of Krasnoyarsk your fellow travellers will not have even fathomed there’s a foreigner in their midst before the train crosses .
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