Sweet Victory?

FULL SCHEDULE INSIDE

Issue 2 × 2013 February 1 - 28

YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND ECONOMICS ART JEWS MUSIC PROBLEMS Is Iceland still on Find your muse! Laying low in Horseback riding with Homelessness in sale? Iceland… OYAMA, diving into Iceland - what can be Sónar, and MORE! done?

SWEET VICTORY?

Iceland's David conquered the European Goliath... but what does it all mean?

Icelanders have been positively glowing (not to mention gloating) since the EFTA Court ruled in their favour in a historic

verdict on the Icesave case. And who could blame them? After ﬁve years of uncertainty, the Icesave issue was ﬁnally resolved—in the best way any Icelander could have hoped for. No more Icesave press-conferences at the President's oice. No more referendums. No more fearing that the repercussions of Landsbankinn's reckless actions would bankrupt the country. The President's gamble, and the nation's gamble, paid o in a big way. But does this mean Icelanders are back on track, free to load up on Range Rovers and re-engage in the reckless risk taking they so love? Page 20

Complete Lots of Download the FREE Grapevine Appy Hour app! Reykjavík Listings cool events Every happy hour in town in your pocket. + Available on the App store and on Android Market. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 2

Editorial | Anna Andersen TRACK OF THE ISSUE Are We Drinking the Kool-Aid, Iceland? Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is Anna’s 21st editorial [email protected] Published by Fröken ehf. Icelanders breathed a col- each other for the rights to these New Age names. www.froken.is Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association lective sigh of relief this Shortly after Bright Future settled on its name last www.saf.is Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. week when EFTA ruled fall, a political group called New Future tried to get in its favour in the long- them to change it, albeit unsuccessfully. “We do not Editor In Chief: Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] disputed Icesave case. intend to change our name,” party leader Guðmun- Managing Editor: Congratulations flew this dur Steingrímsson said, “and we wish New Future a Anna Andersen / [email protected] Editorial: way and that and Prime bright future.” +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Minister Jóhanna Sig- So what exactly is this “New Iceland”? There’s Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] urðardóttir even did a little victory shake to show how been all of this talk of it since the crash, but what +354 40 3610 happy she was to hear the news. exactly is it supposed to be, has it arrived, and if so, is Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] The Icesave dispute between Iceland and the UK it any different from the old Iceland? And why call it +354 540 3601 / [email protected] and the Netherlands was one of those post-crash top- New Iceland when a New Iceland was already created Everything Some of the Time Contributing Writers: ics that came up ad nauseam for the last four years, in Canada more than one hundred years ago? Oyama Paul Fontaine refusing to go away not once, but three times. Now To be fair, it’s not all just empty discourse, and Kári Tulinius Hallgrímur Helgason we’re finally looking at the possibility of never having regardless of how many slip-ups there have been, the Arit John Download for FREE at www.grapevine.is Bob Cluness to talk about it again, the possibility of finally being radical effort being made to write a new Constitution Ragnar Egilsson able to get on with our lives and brighter future. pitting "New Iceland" ideas against the old money/ One would think that a band that’s been Kirsten O'Brien But haven’t we also been talking about a “bet- establishment, is proof of that. Some of the business- Larissa Kyzer around for less than a year wouldn’t be at the Jón Trausti Sigurðarson ter” and “brighter” Iceland for the last four years? men that drove the country into the ground are being Nic Cavell point of changing up their sound, but things Of course “The Best Party” started as a joke, but prosecuted, and despite the resurgence of the Inde- Anna Millward haven’t gone the usual way for these kids and Snorri Páll Jónsson Úlfhildarson it now runs the capital city and makes use of an e- pendence Party, which laid the groundwork for the Bergrún Anna Hallsteinsdóttir they aren’t about to slow down now – they told Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson democracy platform called “Better Reykjavík.” And financial crash, the success of these new parties is a Valur Gunnarsson then we’ve seen parties spring up with names like sign that people are still fed up with the old. us all about it on a recent date, see page 28! Laura Studarus “Solidarity” (Samstatða), “Dawn” (Dögun), and “Op- Now we can certainly all get together, fill our On this track from their new EP ‘I Wanna’, we Journalist & Listings editor: timism” (Bjartsýnisflokkurinn). Not to mention, glasses halfway full and skál to a new day, to a better hear them veering away from the 90s slowcore Rebecca Louder / [email protected] of their early gigs last summer and into warm- Editorial Intern: “Bright Future,” which polls suggest is the third larg- and brighter future, the best even, but let’s be sure John Lowe / [email protected] est party running for parliament this spring. that it’s not proverbial Kool-Aid that we’re sipping on. er, more psychedelic territory. A lovely way to On-line News Editor Paul Fontaine / [email protected] What’s more, these parties are literally fighting liven up the winter doldrums. Art Director: Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] Design: Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] Guðmundur Úlfarsson / [email protected] Photographer: Will You Be Grape- FUN TRIVIA QUESTION! Alísa Kalyanova / www. alisakalyanova.com Music Manager: Bob Cluness / [email protected] vine’s ‘Tourist Of Taken from the educational trivia game Sales Director: TOURIST OF THE YEAR Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Instant Iceland Helgi Þór Harðarson / [email protected] The Year 2013’? Distribution manager: [email protected] Q: The only Icelander on TIME magazine’s Proofreader: We are now officially accepting nominations list of 25 people to blame for the 2008 fi- Jim Rice Listings: YOUR for “Tourist of the year 2013.” Please submit nancial crisis is a former Mayor of Reykja- [email protected] your nominations to [email protected] to be Submissions inquiries: vík, Prime Minister of Iceland and head of [email protected] Missing FACE considered. We will read them, post them to Iceland’s Central Bank. What is his name? Subscription inquiries: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] our website and print the best one come next General inquiries: HERE January. A David Oddsson [email protected] Founders: B Hilmar Oddsson Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Note: To be eligible, the tourist (this can be you) C Jens Stoltenberg Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, must have visited Iceland in 2013. Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Valur Gunnarsson Turn to page 27 for the answer!

Issue 1 × 2013 The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by January 11 - February 7 THE GRAPEVINE Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and Your Free Copy MUSIC AWARDS fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðis- fjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations We thought we’d explain. We’re ripping the idea off from (often written as ae) is pronounced like along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist What’s The Deal With the Icelandair magazine. Go read that magazine if you information centres in the country. the i in tide. can. It’s free. æ You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored (no articles Those Crazy Icelandic We like spelling things using Icelandic letters like in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions ‘æ’ and ‘þ’ and also those crazy accents over the vowels. expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). Like Icelandair’s inflight magazine—IcelandairInfo—says, (often written as d) is pronounced like Letters Yo? the Icelandic language can use accents on all of the the th in there vowels, making them look all unique, like this: á, é, í, ó, ð

FULL SCHEDULE INSIDE Cover by: ú, ö, ý (the accent also changes the pronounciation of

Issue 2 × 2013 February 1 - 28 Döðlur the letters. The á in “kjáni” sounds quite different from YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND ECONOMICS ART JEWS MUSIC PROBLEMS Is Iceland still on Find your muse! Laying low in Horseback riding with Homelessness in (often written as th) is pronounced like sale? Iceland… OYAMA, diving into Iceland - what can be Sónar, and MORE! done? the a in “asni”, for instance). We also have an additional Illustration: ÐðÞþÆæÖö the th in think” three letters. As IcealandairInfo notes: Hrefna Sigurðardóttir þ

SWEET VICTORY? Here Is Your Kreisí Æcelandic Frase For Þis Issue! Iceland's David conquered the European Goliath... but what does it all mean?

Icelanders have been positively glowing (not to mention gloating) since the EFTA Court ruled in their favour in a historic

verdict on the Icesave case. And who could blame them? After ﬁve years of uncertainty, the Icesave issue was ﬁnally resolved—in the best way any Icelander could have “Jæja, er ekki kominn tími til að hætta að (yah-yah, err eh-kke, come-in team-eh till Ok, isn't it time we stop talking hoped for. No more Icesave press-conferences at the President's oice. No more referendums. No more fearing that the repercussions of Landsbankinn's reckless actions would bankrupt the country. The President's gamble, and the nation's gamble, paid o in a big way. But does this mean Icelanders are back on track, free to load up on Range Rovers and tala um Icesave” ath hi-tah ath tah-lah oom Icesave?) about Icesave? re-engage in the reckless risk taking they so love? Page 20

Complete Lots of Download the FREE Grapevine Appy Hour app! Reykjavík Listings cool events Every happy hour in town in your pocket. + Available on the App store and on Android Market.

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guaranteed departures. guaranteed departures. Prices Prices adults (16+): 12 -15 years: 0 -11 years: adults (16+): 12 -15 years: 0 -11 years: 12900 isk 6450 isk Free of charge. 5900 isk 2950 isk Free of charge.

We’ll take BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík you there! +354 580 5400 all the most exciting [email protected] • www.re.is places in iceland OR E&Co. – Mynd Ari Magg stores: our – Visit FOR CENTURIES We that &other offer merchandise clothing WORN OUT 101 Reykjavík, Akureyri and Geysir, Haukadal. www.geysir.net – www.geysir.net Haukadal. Geysir, and Akureyri 101 Reykjavík, reminds us of us goodoldreminds Iceland ICELANDIC WOOL ICELANDIC The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 Say your piece, voice your opinion, send 4 your letters to: [email protected] Sour grapes & stuff by the sea Most Awesome Letter of the Issue

and a delicious lobster Icelandic President Olafur Ragnar and Darling. President Grimsson, and all invested in Icesave and that, like most Grimsson criticized ex British Prime Icelanders, stop blaming others for the of the Icelandic citizenry, they did not Minister Gordon Brown in an interview failures of Icelandic institutions, such as deserve to get thrown under the bus by at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri with Sky News whilst at Davos for plac- the Icelandic banks, the Icelandic entre- a bunch of banksters. As far as looking ing Iceland on Britain's Terrorism list. preneurs and in particular the Icelandic inwards for the cause of the collapse, you Personally I was grateful for Gordon financial regulators and Icelandic politi- are definitely preaching to the converted. Brown and his chancellor Alistair Dar- cians who should have prevented the col- The truth is, being on Britain’s Ter- ling. I love visiting Iceland and try to visit lapse by properly regulating the Icelan- rorist List just really hurt our feelings! every other year. Last year I visited twice dic banks in the first place. Stop blaming We were pissed off at those Landsbanki/ owing to the Northern Lights. Because I others and look at yourselves. Icesave jerks too! Obviously that ‘Brown loved Iceland and everything Icelandic so is the Colour of Poo’ shirt wasn’t blam- much I foolishly invested over £65,000 Neil Sinclair ing him for the collapse; it was our own in an ICESAVE account. Thanks to the way of coping with the pain. At this point actions of Gordon Brown and Alistair (PS In the highly unlikely chance of my win- we realise Brown and Darling did what Darling I received all of my money bank ning "Most Awesome Letter" , my partner they did to take care of their citizens promptly. An example of how much I and I are visiting Iceland in May/ June and not wait for some kind of agree- love Iceland is that in the november of 2013 to celebrate my birthday) ment (they would have been waiting a the year that Landsbanki et al collapsed looooooong time…) my partner and I visited Iceland purely Dear Neil, At the seashore the giant lobster makes to provide some tourist Krona to the Thanks for still thinking this is a cool Spör ehf. then ailing Icelandic economy, this de- Not as unlikely as you’d think! place and continuing to visit! We call appointments with mermaids and landlubbers. spite the fact that at the time I still might that forgiveness. Come say hi next time He waves his large claws, attracting those desiring have lost much of my savings. Walking Sorry to hear you were embroiled in the you’re in town to get your prize/birthday down Skolavordustigur I slightly regret- Icesave mess! Amidst all the economic present! to be in the company of starfish and lumpfish. ted my actions when I saw the the post- ballyhoo and brouhaha, it’s easy to forget ers in shop windows decrying Brown that honest, well-meaning individuals

Although I've been a vegetarian for I wonder if you'd consider writing Dear Mike, nearly 41 years, I appreciated the in- a similar article that would update the formative article by Anna Andersen, content of that article to 2011 (if not Well what do you know! It just so hap- entitled "Iceland’s Post-Crash Sale – 2012), including the side-by-side price pens Anna Andersen went ahead and Reykjavík 30% OFF!" (dated 9.3.2010) at http:// comparisons with percentage change did EXACTLY THAT VERY THING for www.grapevine.is/Home/ReadArticle/ in price? Thanks! Mike Ullmann this issue! Check it all out on page 6. Stokkseyri Iceland-Post-Crash-Sale Thanks for keeping watch! Eyrarbakki - The Seashore restaurant

> Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík @Gunnalitla: @rvkgrapevine Dear Grapevine, I love you and I would love you alot more if your webpage was centered and not left-aligned. Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is @Gunnalitla Thnx 4 the tip. We r thinking about it. We luv u 2! Summer opening hours: Mon - Sun 12:00 to 22:00

Hello, could tell us what kind of ink is used Dear Goedele, in the printing proces? I am working on a vermicomposting I would especially like to know That sounds like a really cool project, project (something with worms eat- if it's a soy-based ink or petrolium- and we wish we could be worm food for ing our foodscraps) and that also in- based ink, and if there are any heavy you (because they are adorable omfg), cludes the use of newspaper as a 'bed- metals used as color pigments. but unfortunately our ink is very much ding' for our worms. So it might be easiest to just give me petroleum-based and chock full of pig- But as the compost needs to be or- the ink's brand names or get me in ment. We didn’t even know there was ganic, the ink in the used newspaper contact with your printing office? such a thing as non-organic newsprint also has to be of organic nature. Takk! before! Silly us. Maybe one day our front I was thinking of using the Reyk- cover will say “The Grapevine’s Gone javik Grapevine for our project (after Kind regards, Organic!” Keep your fingers crossed. thoroughly reading it first of course!) Goedele Vermeeren Good luck with the adorable worms! and it would really help me if you Sólheimar

MOST AWESOME LETTER FREE ICELANDIC GOURMET FEAST!

There's prize for all your MOST AWESOME LETTERS. And it’s a scorcher! No, really! It's a goddamn scorcher is what it is! Whoever sends us THE MOST AWESOME LETTER this issue will receive A FRIGGIN GOURMET FEAST FOR TWO at Tapas Barinn.Did you hear that? Write in and complain about something (in an admirable way), win a gourmet feast at one of Reykjavík's finest? THIS IS THE DEAL OF THE CENTURY IS WHAT IT IS! What's in a 'lobster feast'? Well, one has to assume that it has lobster-a-plenty. Is there more? Probably, but still... Gourmet feast? Wow! DON’T PANIC if your letter wasn’t picked AWESOME LETTER. There's always next month! Now, if you're in the market for free goodies next month, write us some sort of letter. Give us your worst: [email protected] Suðurhrauni 12c - 210 Garðabær » Þingholtsstræti 2-4 - 101 Reykjavík » Austurvegi 21 - 870 Vík » www.icewear.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 The prices of goods and services have gone up by an average 60% since Iceland’s 6 heyday in 2007. Too bad for Icelanders, wages haven’t gone up 60% :(

Iceland | Economics

Is Iceland Still On Sale? Goods 2007 2012 Percent The sale (ISK) (ISK) change for tourists Analysing prices four years post-crash Flour, kg 89 140 57.30 % -26.67% Rice, kg 224 453 102.23% -5.72% By Anna Andersen wasn’t exactly a countrywide 50% off sale, but a Whole-wheat bread, kg 296 439 48.31% -30.86% sale is a sale and aren’t we all suckers for a sale? Lamb, leg, kg 1253 1461 16.60% -45.64% While Icelanders bemoaned the effects of the fi- The ad was taken down a few months later Forcemeat, kg 534 534 0.00% -53.38% nancial crisis in 2008, dollar- and euro-carrying after a number of Icelanders took issue with its tourists rejoiced that the notoriously expensive is- lack of tact rather than its false marketing. None- Haddock fresh, fillets, kg 1079 1557 44.30% -32.73% land had suddenly become more affordable. And theless, tourists have continued to visit Iceland Shrimp, frozen, kg 637 1412 121.66% 3.34% if this wasn’t obvious in November 2008, Iceland’s in record numbers every year post-crash, almost Salmon, kg 1049 1853 76.64% -17.65 % international airport greeted tourists with a sign outnumbering the nation’s 319,575 inhabitants that read “Welcome to HALFPRICELAND: Are two-fold this last year. Milk, l 76 122 60.53% -25.17% you here for the nature or the exchange rate?” If these tourists are still coming to enjoy the Skyr (curds), kg 238 399 67.65% -21.85% Indeed the króna lost half its value against favourable exchange rate, goods and services are Dairy cheese, 26% fat, kg 932 1394 49.57% -30.27% those currencies, but that’s only half of the post- now on average 60% more expensive than they crash story. The airport ad overlooked the fact were before the crash. So Iceland is only 25% Eggs, kg 417 649 55.64% -27.45% that goods and services on the import-dependent cheaper than it was when it seemed so prohibi- Margarine, kg 260 520 100.00% -6.76% island had become 30% more expensive. So it tively expensive in 2007. But, happy shopping! Tomatoes, kg 222 346 55.86% -27.34% Cucumbers, kg 222 415 86.94% -12.85%

NAVIGATING THE POST-CRASH “SALE” Apples, kg 120 281 134.17% 9.16% Oranges, kg 103 245 137.86 % 10.89% The following post-crash sale* recommendations are based the price of goods and Bananas, kg 152 259 70.39% -20.57% services listed by Statistics Iceland (www.statice.is) one year pre-crash, in November 2007, and four years post-crash, in November 2012. Grapes, kg 355 910 156.34% 19.50% Raisins, kg 323 786 143.34% 13.44% Sugar cubes, kg 259 539 108.11% -2.98% Coffee, domestic, kg 906 1859 105.19% -4.35% OH YEAH, WHAT A STEAL! WATCH OUT, RIP-OFF! Dark chocolate, 200 g 255 323 26.67% -40.95% Light chocolate, 100 g 194 169 -12.89% -59.39% Coca Cola, 2 l, bottle 167 294 76.05% -17.93% Do buy men’s socks. They are only 16% more ex- Don’t by fruit unless you are in danger of contract- Diet orangeade, 50 cl, bottle 113 146 29.20% -39.77% pensive than they were in 2007. That makes them ing scurvy. Apples, pears, grapes and raisins have Pilsner, 50 cl (2,25%), can 82 88 7.32% -49.97% 46% off for tourists. increased in price by more than 130%. They are not sale items. In fact, they were a better deal for Vodka, Smirnoff, 750 ml, bottle 3140 4999 59.20% -25.78% Do buy a can of Pilsner. It has decreased in price tourists in 2007. White wine, 750 ml, bottle 990 1950 96.97% -8.18% by 2%. That makes it 50% off for tourists. But do Red wine, 750 ml, bottle 1190 1999 67.98 % -21.69% note that this is light beer. Real alcohol can only be Don’t buy a pair of jeans. Their price has increased purchased at state-run liquor stores called Vínbúð. 119%, which makes them 2% more expensive for Beer, Víking, 50 cl, can 229 379 65.50% -22.85% tourists today compared to 2007. Cigarettes, pack of 20, pack 601 980 63.06% -23.98% Do buy light chocolate (but not dark chocolate). It Tobacco, 43 g , pack 759 1359 79.05% -16.53% has decreased by a whopping 13%. That’s 59% off Don’t buy a lady’s woollen pullover. It has in- for tourists. creased in price by 145%, which is a 14% mark-up Snuff, 50 g, can 405 1020 151.85% 17.41% for tourists. Men's shirt, pc. 4757 9472 99.12% -7.18 % Do buy forcemeat, if you dare. It has not increased Jeans, pair 8191 17963 119.30 % 2.23% in price, which means it’s 53% off. Don’t buy frozen shrimp. Their price has gone up Men's socks, pair 1140 1324 16.14% -45.86% by 122%. That's a 3% mark-up. Do buy diet Orangeade. It has increased in price Ladies pullover, pc. 2951 7233 145.10% 14.26% by 29%, which makes it 40% off. You can find ob- Don’t buy a refrigerator. It has increased in price Oil for space heating, 100 l 6738 16350 142.65% 13.12% scure sodas like Orangeade at Drekinn on Frak- by 115%, which means it’s simply not on sale. Petrol, 95 oct. full service, 100 l 13470 25652 90.44% -11.22% kastígur. This is a bad deal. Don’t be deceived, tourists. Refrigerator 55039 118406 115.13% 0.29% Do buy a lottery ticket. It has only increased 10% Don’t buy snuff. It is 151% more expensive. That’s Airline fare, Reykjavík-Akureyri 10120 15860 56.72% -26.94% and you could win LOADS of money. a 17% mark-up. Not to mention, it’s pretty gross. Bus fare for adults, in Reykjavík 280 350 25.00% -41.73% Cinema ticket, ticket 900 1250 38.89% -35.25% Lottery ticket, ticket 1000 1100 10.00% -48.72% *The “sale” has been calculated based on the exchange rates listed by Iceland’s Cen- Swimmingpool ticket 220 375 70.45% -20.54% tral Bank on November 1, 2007 (1 USD to 58,79 ISK) and again on November 1, 2012 (1 USD to 126,11 ISK).

Getting The Show Back On The Road

Iceland’s economic wellbeing counted in Range Rover registrations 259 By Anna Andersen

“Iceland’s de facto bankruptcy—its currency manifestation of the nation’s collective binge. (the krona) is kaput, its debt is 850 percent of Big cars are useful for taking on some of Ice- G.D.P., its people are hoarding food and cash land’s more rugged country roads, but they are and blowing up their new Range Rovers for the difficult to justify in Reykjavík, especially in the insurance—resulted from a stunning collective city centre with its narrow streets. Nonetheless, madness. What led a tiny fishing nation, popula- in 2007, more Range Rovers were being im- 163 tion 300,000, to decide, around 2003, to re-invent ported to Iceland than to the rest of Scandinavia, itself as a global financial power? In Reykjavík, which is a 100 times larger market, according to where men are men, and the women seem to a Yale Insights interview with former Minister have completely given up on them, the author of Business Affairs Gylfi Magnússon in 2009. 108 follows the peculiarly Icelandic logic behind the Range Rovers were a status symbol; people com- 94 meltdown.” pared their luxury jeeps like traders in American So begins “Wall Street on the Tundra,” the Psycho compared their business cards. contentious Vanity Fair article written by Mi- As you can see in the accompanying graph, chael Lewis a few months after Iceland’s 2008 there was a dramatic drop in new Range Rover crash. Contrary to the picture painted by the registrations from 259 in 2007 to 94 in 2008. The 31 article, people weren’t actually blowing up number continued to drop with 10, three and 26 24 their Range Rovers en masse, but they probably four registrations in the three following years. 10 wished there was something they could do to get The trend reversed last year, however, with reg- 3 4 rid of their luxury jeep, if it meant that they could istrations jumping to 24, which is more than five get rid of the attached foreign currency pegged times the number of registrations in 2011. This loan, which near doubled over night. leads us to conclude, if our newly invented RRR 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 In the wake of the crash, the Range Rover Index is any kind of sign of the times, that Ice- stood out as a symbol of the times, a leftover land may be getting the show back on the road. The contemporary Viking

66°NORTH was founded in 1926 with the purpose of making protective-wear for Icelandic fishermen and workers. Today we make quality clothing for all types of outdoor activities, designed to meet the needs of contemporary living.

66north.com The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 Have you engaged in asylum tourism? Tell us about it, [email protected]! 8 JANUARY Iceland | FAQ NEWS IN BRIEF So What's This Asylum Tourism January started off on a sensational note with international media re- porting that Iceland was the thing to I Keep Hearing About? fear in 2013. Two different shows on America’s Public Broadcasting Ser- vice depicted Iceland as a ticking time bomb ready to explode this Words year. While Iceland is volcanically OH GOODNESS. Kári Tulinius active, geologists were quick to point out that predicting eruptions to the She went on: "People are just going year is pretty close to impossible. Illustration abroad to get to know the country and Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir nation and make use of the services An Icelander became the unwitting that asylum seekers are offered." subject of the international news af- When the interview caused ter he drank a bottle After spending a gazil- outrage Kristín put out the of Tópas liqueur, lion dollars convincing previously mentioned boarded an Icelan- foreigners that Iceland press release claiming dair flight bound in winter is not an that her words had been for New York and uninhabitable rock taken out of context. proceeded to yell at floating in the In response, RÚV and spit on other passengers before colder bits of the released the entire they and the crew managed to tape North Atlantic, interview reveal- him to a seat and gag him. A fellow passenger photographed the “the air the tourism ing that, in fact, she hooligan” and the image went from industry has had not been taken out of Facebook to Reddit, at which point found itself overwhelmed context. his fate was sealed. The airline says by an influx of winter visitors. Having the man will face charges. been lured here by the promise that Ice- MAYBE SHE DOESN'T UN- land wants to be your friend, they have DERSTAND WHAT WORDS President Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson instead found that Icelandic nature has MEAN; APHASIA IS A had a few things to say this month. all the personal skill of an enraged rein- RECOGNISED DISORDER. In an interview with the BBC, he said deer bull and the charming demeanour Iceland’s economy is recovering of a sand blaster to the face. She certainly has a history of using words because of the national character. that make people confused. In an article Never mind that this was the same SO ASYLUM TOURISM RE- in the newspaper Fréttablaðið, Tatjana reason he cited in 2005 to explain FERS TO TOURISTS SEEKING Latinovic, former head of the Organiza- why our eventually doomed venture capitalists were succeeding. He also ASYLUM FROM THE WINTRY tion of Women of Foreign Origin, brought up a number of remarks by the head of the proclaimed that Icelanders will “nev- WEATHER? Directorate of Immigration, for instance er forget Gordon Brown,” that his No, not really, but the reality is only that people from one particular country name will live in infamy in Iceland for “centuries.” I guess we’ll have to wait slightly less ludicrous. The term "asy- routinely trafficked children and that for- and see if he’s right about that one. lum tourism" was imported into Icelan- eigners were gaining Icelandic citizenship dic public discourse by Kristín Völun- in large numbers using forged papers. dardóttir, the head of the Icelandic Whether it was something about her national character or not, Vilborg Directorate of Immigration. BY NOW I'M JUST GONNA Arna Gissurardóttir became the first ASSUME THE WORST AND solo Icelander to reach the South OH GOOD, AN EXPERT! WHAT GUESS THAT THERE'S NOTH- Pole. She travelled by skis and slept DOES THIS TERM SHE USED ING TO BACK UP THOSE in a tent the entire 60-day journey, MEAN? CLAIMS. which is perhaps something to keep in mind when it’s cold and you’re wait- Here is the odd thing. In a recent Ice- absolutely ages since they have given us when Kristín implied that some of the Tatjana says the civil servant offered no ing for the bus. landic language press release she used a genocidal dictator. The third meaning asylum seekers her institution is sup- data and made the excuse that the in- Her supporters the term "asylum tourism" in English. of "asylum tourism" refers to the prac- posed to serve were nothing more than stitute she runs has neither the money donated a total In English, that means visiting disused tice of shuttling asylum seekers between tourists that applied for asylum to re- nor time to do scholarship or research. 6.5 million ISK psychiatric institutions and has noth- different countries in Europe. However, ceive free room and board in Iceland. Which, you know, if they prioritise tak- to the char- ing to do with asylum seekers. As far as none of these meanings have anything to ing care of the people in their care, is ity LÍF, which raises money this column has been able to discover, do with what Kristín Völundardóttir was THAT'S A RATHER ODD excellent news. for wards catering to females at Ice- the term "asylum tourism" as Kristín talking about in a radio interview that got THING FOR A CIVIL SERVANT land's national hospital Landspítalinn. used it could have three origins. The her into hot water. IN A POSITION OF AUTHOR- THEY DO? SO THERE IS AN Kudos to Vilborg! first comes from Slovakia and began life ITY OVER ASYLUM SEEKERS UPSIDE TO... OH... YOU'RE as yet another slur on the Roma. The DURING THE ICELANDIC TO IMPLY. BEING SARCASTIC. A drunken man who was arrested for second meaning, referring to asylum- WINTER, HOT WATER IS trying to skip out on paying for a des- seekers being housed in tourist accom- Well, she did not imply it so much as RÚV's cultural program Víðsjá dedi- WHAT YOU WANT TO GET sert spent the night in a jail cell where modation, was born in Austria. say it outright. She told Icelandic state cated part of recent show to this issue. INTO. he at some point attempted to eat a broadcaster RÚV that "It can be a bit ap- Asked by a reporter if he considered his mattress. The man insisted that he DO YOU KNOW WHO ELSE That is true, but this is the metaphori- pealing for people who are not exactly stay in an Icelandic detention centre for was hungry and had been denied food WAS BORN IN AUSTRIA? cal hot water where you end up getting asylum seekers, who intend to work il- asylum seekers a form of tourism, Af- by the police. The police said they vis- immediately pencilled in for a meeting legally or come here for other reasons, to ghan refugee Naveen Noori said that it ited the man a total of 17 times, giving Kommissar Rex, the crime-fighting Ger- with your boss, in this case Minister of come to Iceland. It could be a very attrac- was like being in a sort of prison. The man Shepard. And really, enough with the Interior Ögmundur Jónasson. You tive bonus to get free food and shelter rest of the segment bore him out. – Continues over – the Hitler jokes about Austria, it has been see, there was an outcry in the media when the application process is so long."

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Visit us online at www.grayline.is or call us at +354 540 1313 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 Café Lingua meetings are held every Monday from 17:00–18:00 at the main branch of the Reykjavík City Library 10 (Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavík). Information about forthcoming events can be found on the Café Lingua Face- book page or on the Reykjavík City Library website: www.borgarbokasafn.is. JANUARY Iceland | Dating NEWS IN BRIEF Speed-Dating At Café Lingua – Continued –

him water, letting him use the toilet, Putting a face to the many languages and cultures of Reykjavík and bringing a doctor to check on him. Reykjanes District Court ordered the man to pay 20,000 ISK in damages. ter talking with people in Café Lingua that many foreign friends thought that After about 13 Vietnamese uses the same characters years, the City of as other countries in the region. But Reykjavík ap- afterwards, they seemed to have more proved an application from comprehensive understanding about the Muslim So- our language.” ciety of Iceland to buy land for the Lenka was one of two Czech repre- purposes of building a mosque. sentatives and was pleased that people Vice Chairperson of the Muslim So- were interested in the Czech language, ciety of Iceland Salmann Tamimi, who which has a very complex grammar filed the original application said he and pronunciation. She was also happy was overjoyed to hear the news, and to have the opportunity to distinguish hopes to start building this summer. Czech culture from that of other Slavic The mosque will be built in Sogamýri, countries. “There aren’t many Czech which is a bit out of the way, but a plot people in Iceland,” she said. “It is nice of land nonetheless. to have the opportunity to show people the things that are unique in our cul- Minister of the Interior Ögmundur ture and language.” The Café Lingua Jónasson got himself in hot water meetings, she said, have been good op- when the Icelandic media reported portunities to “build bridges” over any that he was trying to ban porn. Blog- gers raged, the Pirate Party accused preconceptions that people have about him of censorship, and thousands of a particular country or region, and find college-aged males began Googling to common ground as well as under- “proxy server.” In reality, porn is al- stand difference. ready banned in Iceland. What the Minister is trying to do is get an actual BUILDING BRIDGES definition of “porn” on the law books, and trying to update the existing porn Alísa Kalyanova Café Lingua has also been a place ban law to account for the Internet. for people to put their current language skills into practice. Joanna EU talks had been closing in on Kristín R. Vilhjálmsdóttir, director of multicultural projects at the library. Marcinkowska, Café Lingua’s Polish home base, with the dreaded chap- representative who is an advisor for for- ters on fishing and agriculture loom- Born and raised in Istanbul, Turkey, Enter the new Café Lingua pro- tive context for her country—which she eigners at Reykjavík’s Human Rights ing on the horizon, when it was an- Saadet Ozdemir Hilmarsson moved gramme at the Reykjavík City Library. says is often only known through nega- Office, believes that an informal social nounced that the accession talks to Iceland in 2008 when she married This weekly programme is part of the tive news—and dispel some confusion environment is key for new speakers would be put on hold. Not stopped, an Icelander. Before moving, she had library’s extensive multicultural ini- around the Turkish language. “Turkish of a language. “It always works better not set aside, but “slowed down” due studied tourism and hotel management tiatives and aims to bring Reykjavík is often mixed up with other Middle when you are not in the classroom. to elections this April. Nonetheless, this prompted EU opponents to loudly in Istanbul, and was also certified as a residents together in the spirit of lin- Eastern languages.” Especially for people who already have proclaim that we must have a refer- kindergarten teacher. Despite her pro- guistic exchange and exploration. “Our some knowledge of the language but endum on whether or not to continue fessional skills, finding permanent em- languages, whether they are mother are not able to practice it ‘live.’” talks again. But even the president ployment has been hard, she says, due to tongues or foreign languages, give us Since the first Café Lingua, there seemed confused. the language barrier. both roots and wings,” says Kristín R. have been further language speed Saadet is currently studying Icelan- Vilhjálmsdóttir, the director of mul- dating rounds, as well as a multilin- …In Turkish, there is a Finally, EFTA ruled in Iceland’s fa- dic, and speaks enough English to get ticultural projects at the library, who gual poetry reading and a Christmas- proverb that says, “The vour in the Icesave dispute over by in daily life. But she is also eager to organised the programme. “ themed event where attendees shared whether or not Iceland had broke find a community in her new home, to person who speaks holiday songs and customs while en- international law when it allowed Ice- take part in cultural events and organ- BREAKING BARRIERS joying gingerbread and jólaglögg. In landers to withdraw their money from isations like she regularly did in Istan- one language, is one February, the library will host a conver- Landsbanki after the 2008 crash, but bul. “Since I arrived, I’ve been digging At its inaugural event in November sation with Icelandic musician Tómas not foreigners around,” she says. “I wonder, what more 2012, native speakers of 14 different person; the person R. Einarsson, who will speak about his who had money can I do to adapt to the life and culture?” languages—from Icelandic and Lithu- who speaks two lan- experiences learning Spanish, as well in Landsbanki’s Lenka Kovářová, a Czech woman anian to Arabic and Filipino—were in- as the Cuban influences in his music, Icesave branch. who completed a Master’s degree in vited to represent their mother tongue guages, is two. much of which has been recorded in The verdict pre- Nordic Religion at the University of in a round of “language speed-dating,” Havana, Cuba. vents the UK and Netherlands Iceland and has lived in Reykjavík for where the nearly 80 guests were given For Saadet, seeing other people’s in- from suing Iceland for potentially bil- nearly seven years, has asked herself the chance to “meet” each language in terest in other cultures and languages lions of euros. Iceland is ecstatic. similar questions. Lenka speaks fluent a series of five-minute introductions. „ at Café Lingua has been clarifying. “It Icelandic but is also finding the Reykja- Saadet, who volunteered to repre- Tung Phuong Vu had parallel mo- was like turning a light on...In Turkish, - PAUL FONTAINE vík job market to be tough. “I am at a sent Turkish, thought it would be a tivations for participating. “There there is a proverb that says, “The per- crossroads,” she said. “I am looking for good opportunity to meet other people wasn’t a Vietnamese representative, so son who speaks one language, is one ways to make connections and meet who share her interest in learning I thought it was a great opportunity to person; the person who speaks two lan- new people.” about other cultures, give some posi- represent our language. I realised af- guages, is two.” - LARISSA KYZER

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Icesave | We won!

all woke up kicking back on a sunny beach. The risk paid off, but that doesn’t mean that The Game Of Risk those who played it safe were against Icelandic interests. It was impossible beforehand, for the most capable of legal experts, to foresee that The Icesave song has ended, but the melody lingers Iceland would win the case. And whatever people thought of the “Icesave III” deal, that deal, with all its faults, was still a rather foreseeable Jón Trausti Sigurðarson April 9, when “we” said no to the so-called lapsed in the fall of 2008, leaving depositors in and safe affair. is a 31 year old student at “Icesave III” deal, thus pushing the UK and the the UK and Netherlands unable to access their Wisdom in hindsight is of little worth if any— the University of Iceland. Netherlands to take Iceland to court. So, Ice- funds. something that the former Prime Minister Geir landers decided to take a risk by pursuing the Risk-taking is a strange beast. It can either H. Haarde should be all too familiar with. Few unknown, rather than taking the known, road pay off or bite you in the ass. Games are often people have had to sit through as many I-told- out of a given situation. all about taking risks. Just ask any member of you-sos as he did during his trial last summer— “Congratulations!” This word was frequently This is something Icelanders have been Iceland’s national handball team. In life, taking more or less everybody who took the witness shouted this past Monday. Why? Did Iceland’s keen on doing. A few years before—in 2005, to risks is sometimes necessary. However, when stand claimed they had foreseen the Icelandic national handball team win the European be exact, a year before Landsbankinn opened the welfare of others is at stake, many would economic collapse of 2008. And why was our Championship? Or did an Icelandic ‘musician’ its first Icesave branch in the UK—a telling at least consider other safer options, or so one former prime minister in court? Well, he had win the Eurovision Song Contest? No. On this speech was made at the Walbrook club in Lon- would hope. taken a risk. He had hoped that by doing as lit- day, at 10:30 AM, the EFTA Court had ruled Ice- don. The speaker was Iceland’s then and cur- Let’s imagine a hypothetical scenario. Say tle as possible, instead of perhaps endangering land victorious in the so-called “Icesave case.” a man is driving his car to the airport at 170 his political career by making brisk and tough Iceland had won the European Championship kilometres per hour. With him are his wife and decisions, that the crisis of 2008 would simply of Lawyering. their two children. They are about to miss their pass Iceland by. It didn’t, and in the process Ice- Icelanders were happy, and understandably flight to Tenerife, or some other sunny resort. land’s economy and his political career came to so. Picking up the bill, not to mention a rather A few things can happen: 1) The family makes a crashing end. Had his risk-taking worked out, large one, is seldom an enjoyable affair. The is- The risk paid off, but it on time for the flight and gets to kick back however, he might still be prime minister, or land’s most prominent female vocalist posted that doesn’t mean on a sunny beach. 2) The car is pulled over by perhaps the whole thing would have gone up in on her Facebook wall that “sometimes justice “ the police, and the driver is fined and loses his flames anyway. Who knows? is fulfilled,” a notion that mostly all Icelanders that those who played license, and they miss their flight. 3) The driver Several MPs from the opposition are now could agree with. The leaders of the govern- loses control of the car and veers off the road. demanding that the current government apolo- ment called it “a great victory for us” and said it safe were against Whether he and his family ultimately survive gise to the nation, or even resign, all the while that “everyone should be merry and not seek the ordeal is unknown. patting themselves on the back for having in- out culprits.” Icelandic interests. Now let’s say that the first scenario plays sisted that the Icesave case go to court. With One of the opposition leaders in parliament, out. Would it be appropriate for her husband, elections looming, one must ask if these same a great proponent of referendums, called the now safely aboard the airplane with his fam- people are fit for government. If they were in court’s decision “a victory of the nation over ily, to demand that his wife apologise for hav- power in a similar situation, will they think about the tyranny of the government.” Another oppo- „ ing suggested that they simply rebook the flight what’s best for the country, or will they always sition leader noted that Iceland had prevailed rent President, Mr. Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson, rather than take the risk of speeding to the opt for the risk, and hope against hope that over the oppressive policies of foreign govern- and his speech touched on the special nature airport? I think I can safely assume most of us destiny is on their side, like our aforementioned ment, adding that Iceland’s government should of Icelanders and why they were so successful would not find that demand fitting. former prime minister did? And shouldn’t those “apologise to the Icelandic nation and that “we” in modern business. To quote: who created the problem, and did nothing to should learn from the whole affair to “always “Icelanders are risk takers. They are daring OSTRACIZING THOSE resolve it, simply enjoy the victory like the rest stick together when it comes to defending Ice- and aggressive. Perhaps this is because they of us, rather than boisterously singing their own landic interests.” know that if they fail, they can always go back WHO DIDN’T undeserved praises while declaring those who So, the message from the folks in parliament to Iceland where everyone can enjoy a good life would have done the sensible thing opponents was simple. Government leaders said “phew” in an open and secure society; the national fab- Taking the Icesave issue to court, rather than of Icelandic interests? and “don’t blame us,” while opposition lead- ric of our country provides a safety-net which settling it out of court, was a huge risk for That said, last Monday saw an unlikely vic- ers said the verdict was a victory for the people enables our business leaders to take more risks Iceland—a risk that paid off. The instigators of tory for Iceland, and one we should assuredly over Iceland’s government and over foreign su- than others tend to do.” such risk-taking, namely the president of Ice- enjoy. “Congratulations, Iceland— perpowers and institutions. The president was, and to some extent still land, the Progressive party MPs, the Citi- today is your day!” Yes. “Congratulations on the victory, Ice- is, right about this. Icelanders are risk takers. zens Movement MPs, the InDefence land!” To bring the Icesave issue to court was, like the and Advice lobby groups and, last Seven long years after the Icelandic bank decision to engage in the Cod Wars back in the but not least, 60% of the Icelan- Landsbankinn opened its Icesave branches in day, a risky endeavour. Amazingly, both risks dic voters, were, last Mon- the UK, the Icesave issue was finally resolved. paid off. But is taking a risk always the right day, along with the rest No more Icesave-Christmases. No more Ic- thing to do? Where did this Icesave issue come of the country, saved esave-press conferences at the President’s from anyway? Well, in short, it came from tak- from the chop- office. No more Icesave deals. No more refer- ing a risk. ping block by endums. Everyone was happy. Still, the issue When the Icelandic economic wonder faced the EFTA hadn’t quite faded away. “a bit of a lull” during the so-called “mini-crisis” C o u r t . of 2006, Landsbankinn decided to open the Ice- S o GAMBLING WITH THE save branch in the UK to resolve what they then w e perceived as a short-term cash flow problem. NATION’S FUTURE As Icesave was a branch, not a subsidiary, the money could easily flow back to Iceland, where But how did an Icelandic bank opening a it was promptly used to resolve the bank’s and branch in the UK eventually lead to Iceland be- the bank owner’s cash problems, as well as ing summoned to EFTA Court? Well, that was, those of the bank’s most prized customers. This more or less, the result of the Icelandic nation’s worked out beautifully short term, but ultimate- decision, a decision made in a referendum on ly turned out to be a disaster; Landsbanki col-

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Iceland | Homelessness On The Outside Where are the homeless of Reykjavík?

Patrice Helmar

Kaffistofan, downtown Reykjavík's soup kitchen, has the off-white walls, bland decor and fluorescent lighting of a hospital Konukot, Reykjavík's cafeteria. Located on Borgatún behind a worn and graffitied wooden fence facing Harpa and the oceanfront, Kaffistofan Women's Shelter serves hot meals and snacks between 10:00 and 17:00. Everyone is welcome, and the cafeteria is visited by anyone looking for a free meal, a place to sit and read the paper or a place to meet with friends. Since December 10, 2004, the Reyk- javík branch of the Icelandic Red Cross has been running Konukot for Guðbjörn visits daily, after having his ness in the capital region. The report, to living in borderline uninhabitable The men have breakfast between the homeless women of the city. breakfast at home. When I meet him, written by Erla Björg Sigurðardóttir, buildings. 8:30 and 10:00, then head next door to Like Gistiskýlið, which has been he's wearing a blue and pink wool surveyed the Reykjavík Red Cross, the This broader definition of home- have breakfast with the nuns of Kven- run by Samhjálp since fall of 1990, sweater under a worn leather jacket city's welfare services, prison services, lessness may explain why the problem nakirkjan. Kaffistofan is open from Konukot is run in partnership with and a teal fedora. On his finger is a sil- the police, and Samhjálp, a local ser- isn't as evident as it is in other cities. 10:00 to 17:00, but the afternoon is the Reykjavík City Council’s social ver ring, a gift from a friend. Like him, vice organisation owned by Fíladelfía While 179 individuals are facing some also a good time to take a shuttle to welfare department. After a two-year the face on the ring is long with broad church and asked the groups to help form of housing difficulty, only 22 indi- Dagsetrið, a service Þórunn refers to trial period, the Red Cross was given features, more Native American than identify the individuals they served viduals, 14 men and eight women, were as a sort of day care for adults run by additional funds from the City to con- Icelandic. Three years ago, before his between March and May of that year. reportedly sleeping on the streets. the Salvation Army. Guests can play tinue running the shelter. daughter returned to Iceland from Swe- The study found that 179 men and pool, socialise, get haircuts, foot mas- Konukot is open between 17:00 den, Guðbjörn had been homeless for women between the ages of 18 and 79 THE BEST PLACE TO BE sages and have their clothes washed. in the evening and noon the follow- four years, sleeping in shelters on good Men who are sober and mentally able ing day. Women are asked to enter nights, and in abandoned buildings and HOMELESS? are selected to paint benches around the house before 1:00 in the morn- outside under trees on bad nights, when the city for 500 ISK. Kaffistofan ing. Snacks are offered in the evening the shelters were full. Decades of drug “I think it’s a very hidden problem. serves a hot meal around 15:00, and and breakfast is served in the morn- use and addiction preceded his years on People just don’t realise that there Gistiskýlið opens again at 17:00 with ing. Konukot also offers bathing fa- the streets. What started off as casual Nobody in Iceland are so many who need this kind of coffee and snacks, beginning the cy- cilities and clean clothes. pot use escalated to ecstasy, speed and help. Or maybe they don’t care,” says cle over again. Many of the women who stay at LSD by the time he was 17. His addic- has to “starve. No- Þórunn Ýr Elíasdóttir, who works as In the city's report, most of those Konukot deal with drug and alco- tion spanned decades, ruined his en- Samhjálp’s bookkeeper and financial served by the city's welfare services hol addiction, and the shelter offers gagement to the mother of his child and body in Iceland has advisor. She also runs Sporið, a 17- reported that they were happy with weekly visits from city social workers turned long trips at sea into painful ses- room halfway house located in the the services provided to them, though and counselling on the connection sions of withdrawal symptoms. to sleep outside area surrounding the capital. they wished for more round-the-clock between syringe use and diseases After going through rehab at SÁÁ, For many of the homeless in Reykja- services. such as HIV. Iceland’s Centre for Addiction Medi- vík, the city offers a number of services. “I think we have enough resources cine, he has been sober for 12 years. „ “It’s not so very bad, in Iceland, to be for this group," Þórunn says. “We just When his daughter, who lived in Swe- were in some state of homelessness. Of an outsider," Þórunn says. A man can have to make better use of what we Resources den, returned to Iceland four years ago the 179, 160 were Icelandic citizens, 12 spend an entire day migrating from re- have.” Yet, when Þórunn says it's not she agreed to let him move in with her. were from Poland, two from Latvia, one source to resource. so bad to be homeless in Iceland, she If you find Now he spends his days reading the pa- from Britain, one from Denmark and Each night starts at Gistiskýlið, the means the available resources are of- yourself in need Samhjálp per at Kaffistofan and going to the gym one from Lithuania. men's shelter on Þingholtstraeti. The fering basic comforts, but they aren't of help, the fol- Stangarhyl 3a, three times a week. The study identified six types of building is fairly nondescript from the as geared towards helping the home- lowing resources 110 Reykjavík homelessness. There are the ‘utan- outside—there isn't a large "Men's less get back on their feet. may be helpful. 561-1000 DEFINING THE HOMELESS garðsfólk,’ which roughly translates Shelter" sign. People just know to go “Nobody in Iceland has to starve. to “the outsiders,” people who live there and ring the buzzer on the front Nobody in Iceland has to sleep out- Gistiskýlið Kaffistofan OF REYKJAVÍK outdoors and outside of society; those step starting at 17:00. There's a camera side,” she says, “but when everyone Open: 17 - 10.00 Open: who live in temporary shelters such as trained on the front door, projecting is struggling, those who work look Þingholtsstræti 25, 10 - 16.00 Reykjavík's homeless problem doesn't Samhjálp's Gistiskýli for men or the black and white security footage for the at the ones who don’t, and see people 101 Reykjavík weekdays & manifest itself in the usual ways. Red Cross' Konukot for women; wom- men who run the shelter each night. In- who spend their day being drunk, 561-0477 11 - 16.00 Droves of people aren't reduced to pan- en who've escaped abusive home envi- side the viewing room is a cot for staff don’t have to pay rent, don’t have to weekends handling on street corners or sleeping ronments for crisis centres; men and members to sleep on and cubbies to pay for food, or anything except for Salvation Army Borgartún 1, overnight in bus stops. It wouldn't be women who've left prison, rehabilita- store the personal belongings and/or al- their alcohol or drugs. We have to do Kirkjustræti 2, 105 Reykjavík hard to spend a week or two downtown tion centres or halfway houses and cohol belonging to the night's residents. something to help those people be- 121 Reykjavik 561-1007 taking in the city's whimsical, idyllic at- have nowhere to live; formerly home- The shelter is three stories tall and come more responsible and take re- 552-0788 mosphere and be convinced that homeless people living under supervised has twenty beds. The walls are decorat- sponsibility for their lives,” she says. Konukot lessness just doesn't exist in Iceland. care; and people living in “precarious” ed with paintings of horses and cathe- - ARIT JOHN The Icelandic Open: 17 - 12.00 In October 2012, Reykjavík City situations. “Precarious” implies any- drals which, along with the lighting, the Red Cross Eskihlíð 4, 105 Council’s welfare department released thing from temporary situations such hospital beds and the linoleum flooring, Efstaleiti 9, Reykjavík a study on the nature of homeless- as staying with family and friends, add to the hospital vibe of the building. 103 Reykjavík 511-5150 570-4000 Bankastræti 2-Downtown,Reykjavík or visittheITMINFORMATION ANDBOOKINGCENTER, ICELANDROVERS.IS [email protected] Tel: +354 5879999 MAKE EVERYMOMENTANEXPERIENCE! Price: 36.500ISK. Black SandyBeachesandatraditionallunch. A True SuperJeepExperience,includingaGlacierWalk, GLACIER WALK VOLCANO AND EASY ANDACCESSIBLE FOREVERYONE

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Spör ehf. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 16 On The Frontier Leading Iceland’s elusive Jewish community By Nic Cavell

Even by generous estimates, there are less one of Iceland’s state-recognized religions. than 100 Jews in Iceland. The community’s As he began to reach out to Iceland’s scat- infrastructure is sparse, their celebrations tered population of Jews, he came to under- un-elaborate. Their leader, although he dis- stand that with regard to Judaism this country putes the title, is Mike Levin, a Chicago-born truly was, in his words, “the frontier.” There Jew transplanted here after meeting his Ice- were no rabbis and Hebrew Sisterhoods, nor landic wife through a music instructor in Vi- Hebrew schools for kids. If Iceland’s coarsely enna. Mike embodies the community’s near- combined assortment of Jews wanted to get ly pathological—he says practical—eschewal something done, they would have to do it of publicity, and only after much coaxing did themselves. he agree to sit for an interview at Kaffitár in Confronting the void and an oceanic feel- Reykjavík. As he later told me, “Sometimes ing, Mike decided to immerse himself in what you talk to reporters, there’s an article about resources were available—slender phone you in the paper, and suddenly your barber is trees that mapped the Jews in Iceland; Ice- looking at you differently.” land’s religious leaders, including the Lu- Despite that, he has a dream. theran Church’s bishop; and academics at the University of Iceland. Soon, it was Mike who A GOOD SCOUT was leading meetings at coffee shops and community gatherings for Jewish holidays. Due to good fortune, Mike had what he con- But the strongest impetus for Mike’s in- siders a solid Jewish upbringing in Chicago. volvement came from his kids, who are now As a child, he attended Jewish summer camp, ages 17 and 19. “I wanted my kids to know Hebrew school and Sunday school religiously. their heritage. I didn’t want them to grow up His synagogue had a Rabbi, a Board of Di- unaware, like so many people do, or just to rectors and a Hebrew Sisterhood. The other hear about it from their friends,” he says. synagogue members noticed that, when Mike As Mike sees it, even if many Icelanders started attending services, everybody sang in are unreligious, Icelandic society remains the same key. As he puts it, a “bunch of old permeated with religion. When neighbour- men moaning turned into a choir.” hoods are designed, a Lutheran church is One of the most striking memories from put into the area’s plan from the very begin- his childhood occurred after Mike joined the ning and without debate. In schools, religion Boy Scouts of America at age nine. He re- classes focus on Christianity, with scant men- members his father driving him all day from tion of Judaism, and Christian holidays domi- Chicago to Wisconsin for a Scout dinner, only nate the calendar year. to leave without ceremony when he discov- Mike wasn’t interested in opting his chil- ered that ham was, indisputably, the only dren out of those classes and holidays, but he option. In Mike’s last experience of the Boy wanted Judaism to be more than a small sat- Scouts, his father “stuck to his guns”—a fact ellite orbiting the Lutheran church, more than Mike remembers with pride. a single page of his children’s cultural mem- Even outside of the Boy Scouts, Mike ory. What he really wanted was something to couldn’t refrain from living out his identity weigh against other influences—to “counter- as a frontiersman. At age 11, he accepted a balance” Icelandic culture, as he says—and to challenge and started paid work as a Jewish show his children their heritage. cantor. Music paved his way to the University Which leads to Mike’s dream: a synagogue of Illinois, and afterward his travels took him in Reykjavík. to Vienna, where an Icelandic music teacher “The experiences you remember as a kid, introduced Mike to his future wife. they have a lot to say,” Mike says. “That’s one In Chicago, he had learned how to conduct of the most important reasons for me to par- services by participating in them; in Vienna, ticipate—so that my kids can experience first- the same services seemed cloistered from hand my own religion.” him and remote. Attending service made him uneasy, so he simply stopped going. His inter- MICHAEL AND GOLIATH est continued to drift from his Jewish roots until he set foot on a particular Atlantic rock It’s an ambitious dream, to say the least, for a Alísa Kalyanova in 1986. Then, as now, Iceland had no syna- community with less than 100 members. And gogue, no Jewish community centre, and no it’s a dream that immediately begs several publicly organized structure. It was a harsh questions, the first of which is, where would contrast to note that Judaism was not even you put it? Timeline The Danish Crown re- quests that Iceland allow Jews to settle there. The first practicing Jew Alþingi rejects this re- settles in Iceland. Fritz The first Jewish ship ar- quest in a decision that it Heymann Nathan estab- rives in Iceland. The Ul- would be overturned two lishes one of the period’s A Nazi party is founded richa belonged to Ruben years later. No documen- most successful busi- in Iceland. One year later, Moses Henriques, a Dan- tation from the period ex- nesses, Nathan & Olsen, it forms official ties with ish merchant of hats, fab- ists of Jews choosing to after arriving from Co- Germany’s National So- rics and paper. settle in Iceland, however. penhagen. cialist Party. The First Jews First The

1815 1853 1906 Era of WWII 1933

1625 1850 1874 1917 1937

The first documented Jew The Danish Crown enacts The first practicing Jew is After 11 years in which he mar- Icelandic Prime Minister Hermann arrives in Iceland. Daniel a law giving foreign Jews recorded in Iceland. Max ried and saw the completion of Jónasson discusses a Jewish family Salomon, originally Pol- the right to settle land in Nordau, physician and the first five-story building in facing the threat of expulsion with ish, resided in Denmark Denmark. journalist, arrives from Reykjavik, Nathan leaves Iceland the Danish legation. In a diary entry and converted to Chris- Hungary to provide an to return to Copenhagen. The that mirrors the sentiment of many tianity before arriving in account of the country’s complete lack of Jewish culture Icelanders at the time, he wrote, Iceland. celebration of its millen- informs his idea that a Jewish life “Iceland has always been a pure nium anniversary. cannot be conducted here. Nordic country, free of Jews.” 17 Issue 2 — 2013 The Reykjavík Grapevine

“The funny thing is, there’s a building here aren’t enough community members willing Sigal Har-Meshi says. “All I want is a Jewish grounds, and while they may be interested in built by a Jew, and it would be the perfect to go in and self-identify,” Mike says, refer- funeral for myself,” she says, referencing the occasionally meeting foreigners with similar place,” Mike says, referring to the Jacobsen ring to the 50 members of a religious organ- open-air ceremony which trades stones for cultural backgrounds and having their kids building on Austurstræti, built in the early isation whose signatures are required on the flowers as tribute to the dead, and which, to discover their ethnic Jewish roots, the com- 20th century by the Jewish trading agent application for state recognition and the at- date, has never been performed in Iceland. munity’s identity may not, in the end, lie in Fritz Heymann Nathan. “What I would love tendant financial aid. The year 2011 was, by all accounts, a his- religion. The decision of Jews in Iceland not to do is get the second floor of that building, Mike believes that the Jewish community toric year for Jews in Iceland. In the spring, to push for a synagogue may not be coward- somewhere above the Laundromat Café,” a could win the designation with a delega- the Orthodox Jewish organisation Chabad ice, but honesty. space currently occupied by a restaurant. tion numbering far less, but even rallying a made clear its interest in developing the But if procured, a synagogue in a space smaller group could be difficult. Jewish community here, sending Rabbi Ber- NODULES IN THE TREE like this—right in the heart of 101—brings “What I’ve been waiting for is a core of el Pewzner as its emissary to preside over other questions to mind. Namely, how does 15–20 people, or a grassroots group. I don’t the first kosher Passover Seder ever held in The community found in Mike the leader it the Jewish community expect Iceland’s pub- want to do this by myself,” Mike says. And at Iceland. needed. Not someone who could carry out lic to react to such a development? this moment, the layers of self-abnegation More than 50 people showed up for the the services perfectly, or someone insistent drop from his guard. The contradictions he’s service. The rabbi decided to return for the on a kosher Torah as opposed to a paper one, sprinkled in; the denials that he’s a com- High Holy Days in the fall. They were the first but someone who takes symbolic construc- munity leader in any way, or has been since formal services with a rabbi and kosher To- tions like the ark for that paper Torah into arriving to Iceland in 1986; the portrait he rah scroll held in the city since World War his own hands, someone who can be their That’s one of the desperately wants to portray of himself as II, when U.S. soldiers observed the holidays, broker when the rabbi shows up and tell him non-essential to the organisation of the even as Iceland followed other European na- that instead of kosher meals for services, most important Jewish community, even while constructing tions in suit, denying German Jews sanctu- they’d rather partake in an informal potluck. their Torah ark and running their services all ary in Iceland. With a synagogue, a more rigid hierarchy “ these years—all of it evaporates in this mo- In 2012, the rabbi came back and again would replace skeletal phone trees and the reasons for me to ment, into the wind lashing the glass win- presided over services. He insists on enthu- same services Mike now cherishes might be- participate—so that dows outside Kaffitár. siasm: come alienating once more, as they were for “I don’t want to do this by myself,” he says “We are now going through a very exciting him in Vienna. With a synagogue comes the my kids can experi- again—a man who has expended so much on stage of community building, with monthly question of who would lead those services, the community’s behalf in the quarter cen- meetings and children’s programmes, and for it is a task for which Mike is not qualified, ence first-hand my tury he’s been here. hopefully we will have a synagogue and a in the strictest sense. Indeed, when faced But is that what it feels like? That the permanent Jewish community centre in the with the choice of presiding over a formal own religion. synagogue—a glass ceiling for the small very near future,” he said in an email to the service like a Jewish wedding, Mike’s anxi- community—can’t be breached because the Grapevine. ety about his floating position has led him to nucleus of the community doesn’t extend And yet, it is telling that when Mike decline the honour. beyond a single person? mentioned feeling alone in his struggle, But still, though he’s served his commu- „ “That’s how it’s felt for me. Well, for me along with one other person, that that per- nity plenty, served it perhaps as much as it One has only to think of the Islamic and one other woman,” Mike says. son was not Rabbi Berel Pewzner. It is tell- wants him to, there remains his unquenched community’s struggle to build a mosque to ambition and his dream. There remains the gauge the recalcitrance with which foreign THE TATTERED DREAM COAT impulse of the frontiersman to clear a path religious institutions are granted shape in and break new ground. Iceland. In 2000, the Muslim Association ap- Sigal Har-Meshi, the community’s treasurer, Looking at the new generation of Jews plied to build a mosque in Reykjavík. Only tentatively agreed to meet with me at Café in Iceland, and especially his own children, after more than a decade of waiting in si- Babalú only because Mike, in the previ- who were his most cherished reason for be- lent bafflement has the Association received ous interview, had an opportunity to vet me But the truth is coming involved in the first place, he can’t from the city the land it requested. against the legion of reporters he’s met with help but feel like the seeds he’s tried so hard “There’s conflict between the two groups representing Iceland’s other publications—a that the Jewish to plant have either fallen on rocky soil, or [Sunni and Shiite Muslims], which is sup- legion for whom Mike is the token Jewish “ weren’t the seeds he thought he’d planted all posed to be the reason there’s no mosque voice in articles, and to whom Mike, after community in along. there. There are over 600 Muslims here, why frustrations with the simplifications of jour- “Why is there a synagogue in Oslo? Why no mosque? It seems very strange to me,” nalism, has decided to stop talking. Some- Iceland isn’t very are there synagogues in Copenhagen? Mike says. The Muslims in the Muslim As- how in our meeting I pronounced the shib- There should’ve been one a long time ago, sociation continue to worship, in a chapel on boleth, and he agreed to open Sigal’s node religious. but there’s something that’s working against the third floor of an office building at Ármúli of the community phone tree to me. it,” he says. 38, which is safely outside of the city’s cul- Sigal was born in Israel and lived there Within days of our interview, Mike de- tural core. until deciding, in the midst of extensive trav- cided that my own study of the Jewish com- “The chapel today is not making a state- el, to work a stint in an Icelandic fish factory „ munity was counter to its aims. In a zealous ment—nothing like the huge building they with her sister. They both married Icelandic push, convinced that any press was bad wanted placed downtown,” Mike says. Ob- men, and since then, Sigal has raised three press in a state where Jews are often misun- serving the Muslim Associations efforts, children at different lengths in both Iceland ing that, when rabbis in strict adherence to derstood, he refused to let us take his photo. Mike says, he feels compelled to think, and Israel. kosher principles and decorum in services After much coaxing, he finally agreed to it “What if this was me and I was looking for a Silences often fell between us. Much of set their sights on a small community, the an hour before print, but said he had a bad place to make a synagogue?” the time I felt that Sigal was not in my com- former leader of those services is displaced. feeling about it. Mike concedes that the obstacles the pany at all, nor I in hers. Sometimes she only It is further telling that, of the hundred or In the summer, Mike will return with Muslim Association faces are probably simi- fixed me with the mild, half-focused gaze of a so Jews in Iceland—from the Argentinean other community members to tend a plot of lar to what the Jewish community would dreamer, and although she spoke of so much coral researchers to the Venezuelan videog- trees and new seedlings in Heiðmörk forest. face, but he notes that the Jewish commu- happiness—a year ago, in the same café, raphers, from the president of the Icelandic They’ll pour mulch and clean a picnic table nity’s modest bank account would be com- they held an informal Hanukkah celebration Ethical Humanist Association to the handful that is publicly used. pletely unable to finance projects on the and were now preparing for another—there of Jewish musicians here, not a single one is, “Our plot doesn’t have the biggest trees,” scale of the Muslim Association’s. was in this look something witheringly sad like the rabbi, an Orthodox Jew, though none he said to me. “But some of them were plant- But what if, against all odds, the money and lost. And she was still afraid: afraid that strictly oppose him. ed before I came here, over 25 years ago.” was raised—perhaps by foreign Jewish or- some Icelander might recognise the Jewish “When the rabbi came, it was interesting ganisations or untapped donors with gen- symbols with which she imbues her jewel- to see how the services were performed, to erous pocketbooks? Beside finances, what lery, afraid of being photographed for this see more culture,” Sigal says. “But the truth opposition to a synagogue has the Jewish article, afraid of speaking openly about her is that the Jewish community in Iceland isn’t community run into, in concrete terms? culture with her children’s classmates and very religious.” “The sad truth is we’ve never really ap- with her own Icelandic relatives. There’s no escaping the fact that most of plied for state recognition. There probably “The synagogue? That’s Mike’s dream,” the Jews in Iceland come from secular back-

Iceland follows Den- The first Jewish con- Iceland becomes mark in closing its gregation is estab- independent. 2,000 Rabbi Berel Pewzner of doors to Austrian lished in Iceland. Jew- Jewish soldiers are the Orthodox Jewish orga- Jews. Several Jews ish soldiers among stationed in Ice- Jewish author and jour- nization Chabad presides are expelled from Ice- the British forces land. 500 Jews are nalist Alfred Joachim over a Passover Seder in land as Icelanders’ at- practice the first non- present at a Rosh Fischer visits Iceland. He Reykjavík. Over 50 attend, titudes grow increas- Christian religious Hashanah service notes that almost all Jews and he is encouraged to ingly hostile toward ceremony in Iceland at the Naval Air settled in Iceland have return for more services in Jews settled here. in 940 years. Station Keflavik. taken Icelandic names. September.

1938 1940 1944 Jews In Modern Iceland 1955 2011

1939 1941 1945 1947 2003

The Aid Association of More Jews, includ- Nine Jews reside in Ice- Iceland votes in favour of President Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson German Jews concludes ing a rabbi, arrive land, according to Ice- the Partition Plan at the marries Dorrit Moussaieff. Dorrit, that refuge in Iceland to Iceland with the land’s Statistics Bureau. United Nations. The plan though secular, was born in Jerusalem from Nazi Germany is im- American forces. is widely perceived as a to a wealthy Bukharian Jewish family. possible. boon for Israel. She is credited with bringing positive publicity to Iceland’s Jewry, though the community says she maintains her distance from them. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 Go check out Muses at www.muses.is! ART 18 Finding Your Muse Reykjavík's only online gallery showcases Icelandic art worldwide

Unlike traditional galleries, Muses has no brick and mortar structure, and instead exists completely online at Muses.is. Rakel Sævarsdóttir, who has a background in art theory and a Master’s degree in communication, began building Muses Spotlight with the help of a programmer in 2009 while she was on maternity leave. She began contacting artists and a year later, in 2010, the site was launched and in 2011, she put on the first pop-up show. “The idea is to display the art online and then enhance it with these pop up exhibitions,” Rakel says.

Lovetank: Sylvía Halldórsdóttir

For a tiny island nation that doesn’t even have a national army, “war” is something that happens overseas. However, artist Sylvía Halldórsdóttir, who has been part of Muses since 2011, is bringing the realities of conflict a little closer to home. She began focusing on war imagery after spending time in Holland as an art student in 2003. While she was going to school, she watched as young soldiers were deployed to aid US soldiers in the invasion of Iraq and Afghanistan. It was an especially striking experience for her, being born and raised in Reyðarfjöður, a small town in eastern Iceland. “It was really weird finding myself in a big city, in a different country, where you had young people going to war. Every time I went to the train station, I could see young people all suited up, ready to go,” she says. “I had never seen anything like that before.” At the time, she was also keeping up with news and Today, 20 artists are members of the “I think self-promotion and mar- one in the Höfðatún building was an designers, but the space didn’t last current events for a newspaper column, and Muses collective, many of whom keting is actually an artist’s worst art show in the sky, with sweeping more than three months. “It’s just she was struck by the gruesome realities of have been personally recruited by nightmare,” says Víðir Mýrmann, an views of downtown Reykjavik serv- a fact that running an art gallery is war: mothers losing children, nations losing Rakel. Their styles range from clas- artist who specialises in oil paintings ing as a backdrop for the expensive,” Rakel says. “So their young people and innocent civilians sic oil paintings to street art to mixed and showed his work at the most sleek, simple show. I just decided that I was dying in the crossfire. media. recent pop up show. “To put a price The location of the going to develop it It was this that led her to adopt the artis- “My focus was first off all, young on your work, it’s a constant head- shows becomes I want to bring the art closer online and work tic identity she paints under today: Lovetank. up-and-coming artists with differ- ache for artists. I just want to spend part of the allure, on these pop-up “I started out in Holland painting images of ent styles,” Rakel says. “So you'll see my days in the studio, working on and being 19 to the public.“ Some people exhibitions. But victims and objects of war, and from there I an artist doing traditional painting my paintings and don’t want to really floors up in one of course hope- painted my first Lovetank,” she says, describ- alongside another with a background think about the other things.” of Reykjavík’s find it a bit overwhelming, to go fully we will have ing original as a large black tank made from in street art who hasn’t been to tradi- Apart from Muses, many of the tallest buildings, some kind of a pattern of hearts with a soft pink back- tional art school who is doing inter- artists also host their own shows and it’s easy to see into this white cube, like going to space for people ground. esting things.” promote their own work, and none why: the venue church or something to come.” Slyvía’s work ranges from paintings to of them are exclusively managed by becomes part of Until then, mixed media pieces, and although she often THE ART OF Rakel. However, having Muses on the installation. Rakel has been work- uses bright colours, she says she doesn’t their side has made breaking into the Locations for past „ ing to make Muses as paint to simply make pretty pictures. Some- MANAGEMENT art world easier for some. shows have included aban- accessible as possible. The times her imagery can be tough to swallow. “To physically go somewhere with doned industrial areas, an old fish site is available in English and Ice- “People have told me my work is beautiful Muses also handles what many art- a huge portfolio and be like, ‘Hi here I factory and a soda factory. Rakel landic, and because of a new col- but some of it can be tough to look at,” she ists consider the less glamorous am!’ Trying to sell my ass; it’s difficult says these places can also be more laboration with an art historian from says, pointing to a massive canvas behind side of being an artist—the business for me,” says Sylvía Dögg Halldórs- inviting to people, as they aren’t as the Czech Republic, there are plans her, which features a woman cloaked in a aspects. Rakel handles everything dóttir, an artist who works with mixed formal as traditional galleries. “I want to translate it into Czech as well. The black hood with a pained expression, set from scouting locations, to promo- media and also showed work at the to bring the art closer to the public,” collective has also received invita- against a has a blood red background. Slyvía tion to curating the show. She also most recent pop-up exhibition. “This Rakel says. “Some people find it a bit tions to host shows in Austria, Czech explains that it was inspired by a photo of a helps maintain the website, where is more comfortable.” overwhelming, to go into this white Republic and Denmark. woman whose son had died in battle. each artist has his or her own profile, cube, like going to church or some- “There are so many ways that “People don’t want to look at bad things, digital gallery and links to purchase FREEDOM TO ROAM thing.” we can make art visible,” Rakel says. they want to look at happy things—things dozens of original paintings, draw- That’s not to say that sometime “We don’t have to take some painting that make them feel good. My paintings ings, sculptures and prints. She takes in the future Muses won’t branch and fly it across the world; we can do Not being tied down to a space gives tend to be happy colours, but kind of dark commission on any sold works, and out and have a physical gallery. a lot of things here.” Rakel the freedom to hold shows imagery.” artists also pay a small fee to partici- Rakel briefly opened a small space wherever she wants. The most recent - KIRSTEN O’BRIEN pate in the pop-up shows. on Laugavegur with two clothing 19 THEATER

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www.gamlasmidjan.is tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8 7 Gaflaraleikhúsið Theatre, in Hafnarfjörður FEBRUARY Call 565-5900 or email [email protected] for more information. Last show Taste the best of Iceland in one amazing meal Meet ‘new girl’ Gréta, an 80-something-year-old go-get- ter who, after being dumped rather unceremoniously in a home for the elderly, soon finds fun and friendship in this not-so-unhappy setting. Gréta is just one of the loveable Icelandic characters in ‘Hjartaspaðar’, a wonderful piece of theatre, combining the superb directorial skill of Ágústa Skúladót- tir with exquisite mask-making techniques. Gourmet Fiest Our famous Icelandic menu Gréta soon hooks up with Hannes, distinguished by his smooth charm and uncanny resemblance to a (somewhat older, grey-er and noticeably less includes Brennivín limber) flare-clad John Travolta, in addition to Hannes’ partner-in-crime, Grímur, whose greatest achievement each day involves successfully stimu- and 7 delicious tapas lating bowel movement (a happy day, indeed). Together, Hannes and Grímur contend for Gréta’s attention in a series of comic sketches: cue heart- Starts with a shot of the infamous wrenching moments of abandoned, frail old lady juxtaposed with drunken Icelandic spirit Brennivín orgies, romps on the bed, sneaking out for an illicit cigarette break and ‘my guitar is bigger than yours’ euphemisms. Smoked puffin with blueberry What makes ‘Hjartaspaðar’ so unique, aside from its compelling characters and batty sketches, is that the entire play is performed through the “brennivín” sauce medium of mask and mime. Without voice or facial expression to rely on, Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa the talented cast of actors is forced to make use of subtle gestures and body language. Exaggerated action characterises this performance, and Lobster tails baked in garlic well-timed movements are crucial: be it a turn of the head, a hand on the hip (not necessarily one’s own) or, in one particular scene, a bizarre flailing Pan-fried line catch spotted catfish of limbs similar to an inebriated chipmunk. The action onstage works two ways, however, as the audience is required to read this universal language Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina of mime, which draws both audience and actors into a metacommunicative dialogue transcending text and concrete meaning. Minke Whale with cranberry-sauce The set is simple, the storyline straightforward and the cast small; Gréta (Aldís Davíðsdóttir), Hannes (Orri Huginn Águstsson) and Grímur (Stefán Benedikt Vilhelmsson) form the core characters, whilst the matron (Álfrún White chocolate "Skyr" mousse Gísladóttir) and two handymen (Erna Björk Einarsdóttir and Klæmint H. Isak- with passion coulis sen) offer highly comic support. Together, the actors show, rather than tell, the quirks of old age and offer a window, or a snapshot, into the lively antics of an old people’s home. The behaviour onstage is full of laugh-out-loud mo- 5.990 ikr. ments and slapstick scenes including an overly competitive chess game, in addition to a big-bosomed matron chasing surprisingly supple elderly men THE REAL ONE SINCE 2000 around the stage with a hypodermic needle. Yet the magic of mask and mime which emanates from ‘Hjartaspaðar’ also has the power to lower the performance’s light-hearted tone complete- The only kitchen ly: there are some truly touching and lump-in-the-throat moments which prove, in this wonderful piece of whacky physical theatre, that despite the in Reykjavík open taboos surrounding it, old age can still be fun, friendly and full of laughs— both bowel movements and booze included. - ANNA MILLWARD to 23:30 on weekdays RESTAURANT- BAR and 01:00 on weekends Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel: 551 2344 | www.tapas.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 Go get those free records at uslandrecords.bandcamp.com! MUSIC 20

Listening Becomes The Key Factor ÚÚ For You Musician-run label Úsland kicks off a series of free improv records INTER ÚÚ 1 Úsland has re- VIEW leased four ÚÚ records. The first one, ‘ÚÚ 1,’ features two of Iceland's most prominent jazz musicians—guitarist Róbert Sturla Reynisson and drummer Magnús Trygvason Eliassen—who, together with Héðinn Finns- son's hurdygurdycaster and Tumi Árnason's saxophone—create a skyful of soundclouds and rhythmic disorder, free from a slightest attempt into any structural safe-haven.

ÚÚ 2

The second one, ‘ÚÚ 2’—performed by multi-instrumen- talists Arnljótur Sig- urðsson, Indriði In- gólfsson and Úlfur Hansson—stands further away from music genres, although it does at times resemble some of the most landscape-like experiments of the West-German kraut- rock of the late 1960's and early 1970's Alísa Kalyanova

Úslanders Albert Finnbogason, left, and Tumi Árnason, right ÚÚ 3 Together, Albert Finnbogason and Tumi Árna- are not documented and preserved. Improvisa- out through the instrument? Are you capable ‘ÚÚ 3’ is entirely son don't only stroke the strings and blow the tion mostly takes place behind closed doors of of forming the idea at once? Or do you need acoustic, offer- reeds with The Heavy Experience, their self- rehearsal spaces. So, by purposefully bringing to sit by and work on it for it to become true? ing a four-track described “drone, spaghetti western and blues” together different artists, a certain interplay is When you’re are inside a studio with nothing in fantasy of stroking, influenced rock band. Since the release of the born, which otherwise would never have been front of you—except a microphone and the tape plucking and buzz- band's first LP—‘Slowscope’—earlier this year, brought into existence. This can also break up is rolling—there’s not much that can hold you ing—and occasional the two have also been operating their own la- the typical band format that can function as a back other than yourself. coughing—per- bel called Úsland, kicking off a series of online- hindrance to musical innovation. formed by a classi- released, fully improvisational records. We got But must there not be a certain cal string quintet comprised of Anna Sóley in touch with Úslanders Albert and Tumi to find You just bring musicians together artistic and even intrinsic difference Ásmundsdóttir, Bára Gísladóttir, Kristín Þóra out more about the label, which they call “a fully in the studio and give them a green between music that is, on the one Haraldsdóttir, Pétur Eggertsson and Þórður sustainable platform driven by the willpower light to go? hand, improvised from scratch, and Hermannsson. alone.” on the other hand, fully or partly pre- Yes. The recording session takes place some- composed? What made you want to start pro- times before a given weekend, some mini- ÚÚ 4 ducing and publishing recordings of mum post-production takes place during that Yes, there is a difference. A very strong foot- absolutely free improvisations? very same weekend, and finally the record is hold can be found in composed and highly Finally, the key released online at the beginning of the next practised music, something that is not evident ingredients of ‘ÚÚ We wanted to bring together musicians, to get week—costing as much or little as each person in improvisation and might consist of the musi- 4’ are the jazz- to know them and give them free rein to cre- wants to pay for it. Any profit goes into the fu- cians' conviction or their harmonics and com- originated, often ate. As such music is occupying more and more ture production of ‘ÚÚ’ albums, which currently positional experience. Or maybe not. In fact, distorted horns space in our private record collections, we were are released on a monthly basis and will hope- it's probably very individually different. There- of Ragnhildur interested in what Icelandic musicians are ca- fully continue to be so. fore, it's interesting to explore how different Gunnarsdóttir and pable of when it comes to free improvisation. musicians tackle improvisation. When a group Eiríkur Orri Ólafs- Freedom seems to be one of the proj- of musicians come together with no common son, smoothly blended with the advised Completely improvised music doesn't ect's key starting points. Does impro- goal other than to intertwine their music into daily intake of Steingrímur Teague's noisy have a strong standing in Iceland, visation allow for more freedom than something functional, all communication be- keyboards and appropriate electronic does it? pre-composed music? comes so careful and cautious. Everyone needs spices from the kitchen of Guðmundur to tiptoe and listening becomes the key factor. Vignir Karlsson aka Kippi Kaninus. At least it's neither very visible nor accessible. No, you always have the same creative free- - SNORRI PÁLL JÓNSSON ÚLFHILDARSON Improvisational concerts and performances dom. The threshold, however, is you yourself. pop up every now and then, but usually they How easily and truly can you get your idea

Step into The exhibition and museum shop are open daily 10–17 the Viking Age Aðalstræti 16 101 Reykjavík / Iceland Experience Viking-Age Reykjavík at the Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s Phone +(354) 411 6370 new Settlement Exhibition. The focus of the past to life, providing visitors with insights www.reykjavikmuseum.is exhibition is an excavated longhouse site which into how people lived in the Viking Age, and dates from the 10th century ad. It includes what the Reykjavík environment looked like relics of human habitation from about 871, the to the first settlers. oldest such site found in Iceland.

& Conference Conference & Concert Hall Reykjavík Reykjavík Centre it’s waterproof it’s worry, Don’t music the Meet harpa.is daily tours Guided

Brandenburg The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 MUSIC 22 Gandhi Indian Album Reviews restaurant

My Bubba and Mi Beneath Jónas Sigurðsson og Wild & You Enslaved By Fear Lúðrasveit Þorlákshafnar 2012 2012 Þar sem himinn ber við haf www.mybubbaandmi.com www.beneath.is 2012 Sugary sweetness for your tea As far as plus/minus ratings go, this www.jonassigurdsson.com one is in the upper echelons Sailors are back in vogue! ‘Wild & You,’ the latest output from Anything Beneath touches oozes Example from our menu: Swedish/Icelandic bluegrass duo My experience and focus. When they have Jónas knows how to open albums in a Bubba and Mi, takes the form of a five- something new out, people get anxious. kick-ass manner and “Hafsins Hetjur” track EP consisting of their trademark Will they put everyone else to shame? Will (“Heroes of the Sea”) is no exception. Indian adventure old-timey-with-a-dash-of-sugar stuff. they top their previous outputs? These The co-credited “Horn Blowers of Their saccharine voices and twanging are all relevant questions befitting a band Þorlákshöfn” sound like a ‘70s funk Let our chefs surprise you with fish, chicken and strings give it a down to earth vibe. With of Beneath’s stature. band on lýsi (“cod liver oil”). They bump vegetarian courses accompanied with nan bread many more of the tracks, the album could ‘Enslaved By Fear’ is relentless. This and grind their way through this ode and raitha. + Indian dessert verge on too-too sweet, but at this length modern death metal cacophony is laced to drowning sailors. 2012 was the year ISK 4.900.- it is manageable. with nuances, a persuasion for melody that sailors came back into vogue, with If you shut your eyes and listen, you and a barrage of riffs that dazzle yet Baltasar Kormákur’s film ‘The Deep’ can travel to a place which probably only sometimes irk. The triggered drumming and a documentary called ‘The Swim,’ exists in popular clichés of the American boggles. The smorgasbord of riffs is about heroic swimmers. Perhaps we are south: Wind stirring tall grass, an old baffling, but the execution impresses. turning to our most traditional roles after Pósthússtræti 17; jalopy put-putting down the road and a I particularly like the guitar tone, the economic crash. In any case, Jónas 101 Reykjavík toothless hillbilly sweeping his porch in which is “earthy” in contrast to many followed his last greatest album, ‘Allt Er ICELAND - low, slanting sunlight. Clichéd imagery bands of similar ilk. It also bears rare but Eitthvað.’ with this one about the sea, the Tel.: (+354) 511 1991 and all, the album nonetheless makes organic gaffes not typically accepted in second track, “Hafið Er Svart,” (“The Sea for a good listen. - BERGRÚN ANNA an over-produced genre. It sounds like a is Black”), a hauntingly beautiful song www.gandhi.is HALLSTEINSDÓTTIR progressive war machine on the offensive about sailors drowning e-mail: [email protected] against religion. Heading out to sea is indeed a If you’re not easily fatigued by recurring motif, as in fact it was in the first extreme, brutal, grim, heavy and fast Icelandic rock songs of the Beatles era. music, you'll be creaming your pants. On the fifth track, he seems to attempt Apart from the excellent title track and to write a traditional sailor song, even "Monolith," shaving some of the tremolo utilising a choir of senior citizens. picking and blasting snare and kick- - VALUR GUNNARSSON drums off the tracks would have made this one even stronger. - BIRKIR FJALAR VIÐARSSON

Þórir Georg I Will Die And You Will Die And It Will Be Alright 2012 http://thorirgeorg.tumblr.com

Cold comforts/gritty truths Ylja ‘I Will Die And You Will Die And It Will Ylja Be Alright’ reflects a world riddled with Svavar Knútur cold comforts. Singer/songwriter Þórir 2012 Georg uses the chanted title track as a Ölduslóð www.facebook.com/yljaiceland clear-cut thesis statement: Eat, drink and 2012 be merry, for tomorrow we might die. But Earth Child Folk without the whimsy at least there’s a chance we might go out www.svavarknutur.com In our quick fire digital music world, the choking on cake. A nice companion to long concept of using album art as a primer to Even with an emotional cloud over winter nights a band’s music seems quaint, even alien, the slacker folk album, the musician to many people. So hats off to trio Ylja for manages a melancholy optimism. “If Despite (or perhaps because of) his producing a magnificent cover. Harking there is a God I hope he is more than sometimes aching sentimentality, back to those classic ‘60s/early ‘70s UK what we talked about,” Georg sings with Svavar Knútur is one of the more able folk albums, it opens up like a double a heart-crushing sincerity on “Thrive.” English language lyricists in Iceland. gatefold showing the band standing on a Unlike the average poet with a guitar He is no slouch in Icelandic either, grassy hillside. The sun-filtered photos of (Read: emo), Georg is unafraid to take and here he combines the two. He the band on the other side connect their a crooked path, dipping into a bag sort of says it plain on opener “Baby, music to the feeling of wind in your face of tricks—including flat-footed vocal Would You Marry Me,” followed by, of and grass under your feet. phrasing and liberal use of feedback— all things, a Bloodhound Gang quote Their music, a mix of folk sounds that points to his previous life as a on “While The World Burns.” The with the odd country twang, has a rustic hardcore punk. romanticism continues in Icelandic simplicity. Tracks such as “Óður Til While occasionally he takes a wrong on “Emma,” leading on to one of Móður” and “Á Rauðum Sandi” contain turn and finds himself dead-ended by a the albums highlights, the title cut an earthiness with well-picked guitars trite phrase (“You Can Lead A Horse To ‘Ölduslóð.’ The outside world is cold complemented by the breathy yet strong Water But You Can’t Make It Drink”) his and distant, Svavar’s voice is warm and vocal harmonies. But there are too many sense of honesty more or less supersedes inviting, the sparse instrumentation “Dun-dun-dun-duns,” “Shooby-doooby- the need to paint a pretty picture. fragile but proficient, and in the end, dum-dums” and “Aæ-Aæ-Aæs.” Folk - LAURA STUDARUS love is all that matters and shelter can and country should be more about telling be found in each other’s arms. stories through lyrics instead of vocal - VALUR GUNNARSSON stylings. But for a debut album that nails what the band and their sound are about, this is definitely a very strong showing. - BOB CLUNESS THIS FIRST CLASS HOTEL IS IDEAL FOR RIGHT IN THE REYKJAVIK CITY CENTER, BUSINESS AND LEISURE, WITH A WARM BOASTS MODERN SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN, WELCOMING ATMOSPHERE AND SERVICES TO PROVIDING GUESTS WITH A SOPHISTICATED SUIT ALL TASTES AND STYLISH ENVIRONMENT

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C Icelandic Cuisine e n t r e AUSTURBAKKI 2 101 REYKJAVÍK MUNNHARPAN.IS Bankastræti 2 - 101 Reykjavík - Tel. 551 4430 [email protected] - laekjarbrekka.is [email protected] +354 5285111 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 24 Will Sónar Reykjavík Be The Second Hippest Long- Weekend On The Annual Music Festival Calendar? Festival honcho Björn Steinbekk on the trials and tribulations of establishing a major event in deepest, darkest winter

Greetings, Björn Steinbekk, head of Birkir Hólm Guðnason and VP of Sales and supportive of the project, along with our spon- the newly minted Reykjavík edition Marketing Helgi Már Björgvinsson. They sors, but this is an uphill battle for the first year. of the prestigious Sónar music festi- asked if an event during the winter could be That is fine, but as politicians keep talking about val. Firstly, what can you tell us about established, “something like a DJ festival,” attracting more tourists to Iceland during the yourself? Have you long been in- was the terminology they used. I spoke to wintertime, we expected more. volved with promoting shows in Ice- Daníel Atlason from LiveProject about the land? And how has the act of concert idea and he mentioned Sónar. From there, IS ÁSGEIR TRAUSTI promoting in Iceland changed since this was simply e-mails, phone calls, budget ‘ADVANCED’ ENOUGH? you first got involved? making and selling the owners of Sónar the idea that Reykjavík was a viable option. That Our Facebook page saw some self- I first started out as promoter when I was 16 was not the tough part. The tough part was described 'music nerds' complain- years old in a group called Pakkhús Postulan- convincing them that February was the right ing about the inclusion of artists like na (“The Apostles’ Warehouse”). This fellow- date. That was probably the hardest sell I Mugison and Ásgeir Trausti—whose ship, lead by one Þorsteinn Högni Gunnarsson, have had to do. latest work seems more in the clas- was the first to introduce rave parties to Reyk- sical guitar music camp—on the bill javík, back in 1988. I then carried it on with Are there plans for Sónar to become of an 'advanced music festival' Is this my friends and we held some memorable raves an annual event? Will it be a perma- something you need to pay mind to in Reykjavík from 1989 until 1992. Our venues nent fixture on the 'annual festival when planning the festival? Can art- varied from car dealerships, garages to base- calendar'? ists be 'too straight' for Sónar? ments on Laugavegur. My first large arena concert was The Fugees We have a six-year agreement with the fes- Lana Del Rey played Sónar Barcelona in 2012. in Laugardalshöll in 1997. That must be the tival, so yes, this will be an annual event in She would hardly be described as traditional most memorable concert I’ve promoted, due to February—but only if we believe this can be Sónar artist. Sónar is not about what is hip its nature and the long road we took to make a success and manage to break even for the and cool in the electro scene, that is a misun- that happen. first year. derstanding. Sónar is all about the relevance Björn Steinbekk Since I started doing this, the biggest of the artist and his or her accomplishments. changes are that the professionalism in the BELIEVE IN THIS Ásgeir Trausti is a success story. He has sold The first Reykjavík edition of renowned inter- field has improved greatly, and those servicing more records than many do in a lifetime. Mu- national music festival Sónar will take place concerts, companies such as Exton, have built Did you encounter many obstacles in gison has played three times at various Sónar in a couple of weeks, and boy is that an excit- up an inventory of knowledge and equipment. trying to stage the festival? What are events and in Barcelona. They love him, and ing prospect. Sónar is of course a most well The only downside in today’s concert business some of the challenges of throwing he will be performing with his famous Mirstru- regarded music festival, conceived and based is that the public’s ticket purchasing behaviour a world-class party like this in 2013 ment. This is not going to be a traditional Mu- in Barcelona, Spain, where it’s been an an- has changed. Icelanders have become very late Iceland? gison show. nual fixture since 1994. It has played host to in buying tickets. almost every major player in electronic music The main obstacle is simply getting people to be- What are some of the artists you are and beyond, ever, billing itself as a ‘Festival WHY FEBRUARY, WHY? lieve that you are serious and that this can be done. most looking forward to seeing per- of Advanced Music and Multimedia Art’—the I thought we would attract considerable support form at the festival? Barcelona edition also features cinemas, art The first edition of Sónar Reykjavík for the festival from the City of Reykjavík and gov- exhibitions, technology forums, conferences, seems a ludicrously ambitious en- ernment agencies, but unfortunately it seems we Squarepusher, James Blake, Ryuichi Saka- etc. It is a Big Thing, and now it’s in Iceland, deavour, as was to be expected from have to establish the festival to gain some real sup- moto, Modeselektor, GusGus and the young- with the intent on being a permanent fixture. such an esteemed festival brand. port from those parties. The City of Reykjavík super and up and coming Icelandic artists that We caught up with Sónar Reykjavík manager How did Sónar Reykjavík come ports Sónar Reykjavík by the amount of 500.000 are performing. Reykjavík Allstars in the Björn Steinbekk, who is making his return about—how long has this been in the ISK, which is around 1.000 ISK per foreign guest parking garage stage will be my last rave, to the field of concert promotion after a few making? that will be attending the festival. where all the old DJs play music from 1987 years’ break, and asked him what’s up with Promote Iceland has supported the festival in to 1992. this whole thing. I along with Grímur Atlason from Iceland the form of paying for specially chosen journal- - HAUKUR S. MAGNÚSSON Airwaves had a meeting with Icelandair CEO ists to visit. Harpa and Icelandair have been very

Go See These People At Sónar Reykjavík By Bob Cluness With a heady line-up that’s heavy on local talent and features some surprisingly eclectic international names, we couldn’t be more excited for the first Reykjavík edition of the legendary Sónar festival. Grapevine’s resident music know-it-all Bob Cluness put together a list of five acts he thinks you should definitely try to see at the festival—go to www.sonarreykjavik.com for the full schedule and elaborate artist info.

Pedro Pilatus Diamond Version James Blake (DJ set) LFO Oculus

Pedro Pilatus is the DJ/producer The German electronic label Raster Even though James Blake is well It's no overstatement to call LFO Iceland's electronic music scene side project of Retro Stefson bass- Noton is renowned worldwide for known for his self-titled 2011 début, one of the founding fathers of would be no more than a limp fart ist Logi Pedro Stefánsson who their vision of a machine music aes- his soulful, dub-heavy style is not techno and acid house, their 1991 in the wind if it weren't for the trail- works out his electronic bass and thetic that is hard, minimal and re- quite a hit with everyone (Portis- record 'Frequencies' being one of blazing efforts of Friðfinnur "Oculus" turntable chops across a host of lentless. Sónar Reykjavik is lucky to head's Geoff Barrow famously said the classics of electronic music and Sigurðsson. In addition to being the bars in 101 when he’s not otherwise feature label founder Carsten Nico- of his single "Limit To Your Love," the high point in the British "bleep engine of house music group Sísý Ey, engaged. Just before 2012 closed, lai, who will be playing with compos- "Will this decade be remembered and bass" sound. Although the duo he has released numerous singles he released his debut EP, 'Calia,' on er Ryuichi Sakamoto under his Alva as the dubstep meets pub singer has now been reduced to the solo and EPs for a brace of European la- UK independent label Cool Kid Mu- Noto alias. But it is his new project years?"). But when it comes to efforts of Mark Bell, LFO are still bels that showcase the range and sic, which contains a blend of grub- Diamond Version (along with Raster DJing, he is a different beast al- going strong, packing venues and quality of his production, from hi NRG by bass sounds with jackin' house Noton stablemate Olaf Bender, AKA together. Having already played in making music that is still forward techno to punchy Euro house. His and garage beats. Great things are Byetone) where the real interest is. Iceland at Airwaves 2010, his DJ looking and fresh as the day is long. travels have seen him perform all over expected from this man as he em- With two EPs already under their sets at Bakkus (Now Harlem) were Europe including Berlin's legendary barks on his own incredible journey belt and a third lined up, their music a highlight of the festival. Mixing Where: Harpa, Silfurberg Berghain club, and with a full-on live (minus the dog and cat of course). mixes Teutonic electro and techno R&B, dubstep, garage and much When: Saturday 16 Feb, 02:00 show that's yet to put a step wrong, with disembodied robot slogans more, this will be a set that will def- he should definitely be bringing his Where: Harpa Silfurberg and industrial precision. Vorsprung initely move and surprise you. A-game to the proceedings. When: Friday 15 Feb, 19:30 durch Technik indeed. Where: Harpa, Car Park Where: Harpa Bay View Area Where: Harpa, Norðurljós When: Friday 15 Feb, 02:00 When: Friday 15 Feb, 00:00 When Friday 15 Feb, 22:00 Harlem is located at Tryggvagata 22, 101 Reykjavík. Find more information and their complete event listings at 25 www.facebook.com/HarlemBar. Their happy hour is every day from 18:00 to 22:00 with beer for 550 ISK and wine for 700 ISK. Across 110th Street

Harlem is the new kid on the Naustin block One can’t be blamed for confusing the new bar on thing that was rough and also up-and-coming, so we went Naustin with one of its former tenants. A stylishly with it,” she says. “You could say that I christened the bar.” whimsical logo graces the front of the building, heavy Even without a theme, Harlem does stand out as a liv- black curtains still line the inside of the glass-panelled ing work of art. Nearly every square inch of the place has doors, and a similar sensory overload that blends ele- been emblazoned by the paintbrush, pen or print of a local ments of psychedelia, naiveté and irony await inside. artist or designer. “There’s so much and it’s all so different,” The dance floor is small but the music is fun and retro Kristjana says. “You could spend days in here just look- in that classic John Hughes movie soundtrack kind of ing at the walls!” This was orchestrated by artist Árni Már way. Familiar faces of musicians, artists and bar-entre- Erlingsson, who was put in charge of the bar’s décor. He preneurs line the stools at the bar. The staff are a déja gathered sixteen artists, a mix of up-and-coming and fairly vu. They may have different parents, but Harlem sure well recognised names who, along with carpenters Sigmar looks like Bakkus’ younger sibling. Freyr Eggertsson and Örn Ingi Guðnason, built and painted Make no mistake though; while they share the spit- the place in three weeks. ting image of being born from the same local scene that embraces musical inclusivity and an exuberant PARTY ALL THE TIME DIY aesthetic, Harlem does not wear hand-me-downs and, like a lot of younger siblings, it seems to have Their other claim to hopeful glory is their booking schedule. learned from the failures of its elders. “Our goal is to have events every night,” Kristjana says. “The people that come here are really diverse, too—people of all FOURTH TIME’S A CHARM ages and all styles. It’s a really nice atmosphere.” For this reason too, they try to keep their events as varied as possible with “We wanted to open a place that was colourful and fun and DJs, small live concerts, cult television show pub quiz themes, different from the other places in town,” says Kristjana Björg bad movie nights and weekly screenings of NBA games. Reynisdóttir, chief of staff and head of the bar at Harlem. “We Additionally, they have rebuilt a wall that had been torn didn’t want to go with a theme because we’d like to have some down in 2010 to merge Bakkus with the short-lived show longevity.” This is an ambitious goal to have for a location that room, Venue. (A new concert venue named Volta, owned and has seen three different bars come and go in less than four managed by the same team, will open in the space next door years—the last being Þýski barinn (“German bar”), which was on February 8.) The goal of this was to keep Harlem small and there for less than a year. cosy unlike its sibling-like predecessor. “We will be running Kristjana co-runs the bar with Steindór Grétar Jónsson, both places, but we want to keep them completely separate,” Villý Þór Ólafsson and Dagný Ósk Aradóttir Pind. She landed Kristjana says. “We want to keep Harlem the way it is.” on the bar’s name as the team were brainstorming through - REBECCA LOUDER cities and countries for inspiration. “It reminded us of some-

The bar’s interior was painted by Arna Óttarsdóttir, Árni Már Erlingsson, Björn Loki Björnsson, Bobby Breiðholt, Davíð Örn Halldórsson, Guðmundur Ingi Úlfarsson, Guðmundur Thoroddsen, Guðrún Harðardót- tir, Hrefna Hörn, Mundi Vondi, Ragnar Fjalar Lárusson, Sigurður Þórir Ámundrason, Sigurður Atli Sigurðs- son, Sunna Ben, Þorvaldur Jónsson and Þórarinn Ingi Jónsson The Harlem gang, Árni Már Erlingsson, Kristjana Björg Reynisdóttir & Guðrún Harðardóttir

The Grapevine’s Sónar Survival Guide Some quick tips and tricks for festival visitors

Greetings festivalgoer! Since this is the first ever edition of Sónar Reyk- javík, we are all in a sense first timers, but some of you may be new to Iceland and our nightlife. Perhaps you have heard of it (it’s quite notorious). One shouldn’t believe everything one hears, but a lot of it is true. With that in mind, here are a few practical suggestions to help you through our lovely city over what’s sure to be a very wild weekend. COFFEE, CAFÉ, KAFFI! unique experience

There is no shortage of marvellous places to get a good strong jolt of caffeine here. The top dog is Kaffismiðjan (Kárastígur 1), which roasts its own beans and keeps the service quick and cosy. A few blocks down from there you’ll find Litli Bondabærinn (Laugavegur 41), which has Icelandic Feast killer beverages, savoury pastries and organic sandwiches. For coffee Amazing 6 course menu which combines closer to Harpa, head to Café Haiti (Geirsgata 7c), which not only of- Icelands best produce withJapanese, fers some of the finest beans but is also a great spot to hang out. Peruvian and Brazilian cuisine. GASTRONOMY TOWN Starts with a shot of icelandic nacional spirit "Brennivin"

At a music festival, eating often comes down to terrible junk food or Place Ceviche overpriced fare. Luckily there are some pretty tasty quick eats here, Dried maize, sweet potato, coriander, chili, like the food at Prikið (Bankastræti 12), which offers a great selec- passion sauce tion of burgers, light lunch meals and all-day breakfast at nice prices. For some casual-fancy and truly excellent dining, try the relatively new Minke whale tataki Snaps Bistro (Þórsgata 1). If you want to stay close to the festival Fig jam, wakame, mushrooms, soy glaze base, you could do a lot worse than Munnharpan (Harpa) with its extensive lunch and dinner menus, and a great view to boot. Icelandic Salmon roll Salmon, avocado, asparagus, jalapeno mayo

COCKTAILS & HEADACHES Spotted cat fish "mojito style" Grilled spotted cat fish, pea purée, bacon, Whether you’re getting ready to go out or winding down your night, mojito foam nothing beats finding a nice bar to relax and sip some drinks. The off- venues for Sónar are great spots–Harlem, Volta, Café Reykjavík and Lamb ribs Kaffibarinn – but if they prove too packed, check out Dolly (Hafnar- Chili crumble, "Skyr" mint sauce, celeriac fries stræti 4), Faktorý (Smiðjustígur 6) or Litla Gula Hænan (Laugavegur Icelandic Skyr "Flan" 22). If you wake up in pain the following day, chug down a couple of Hverfisgata Lækjargata Lækjar- litres of our clean cold tap water, grab a burger and hit the hot tubs at torg Sundhöllin (Barónstígur). Most importantly, be cool and have a great Laugavegur 5.990 kr. time! Happy Sónar! Skólavörðust. Our kitchen is open Skólastræti sushisamba - REBECCA LOUDER Amtmannsstígur Ingólfsstræti 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. Þingholtsstræti Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat. Tel 568 6600 • sushisamba.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 TRAVEL 26

Distance from Reykjavík: Þórsmörk Canyon Super Jeep tours of Þórsmörk are available through F249 Þórsmörk is about 156 km from Reykjavík. Total driving Eskimos Iceland in association with South Iceland Tours. time from Reykjavík is about three hours. Visit www.iceland.eskimos.is to book a similar tour.

The Centre Of The Universe Seeing Icelandic nature from a monster truck

Words by Kirsten O’Brien Theresa Schnöll

airiceland.is

GRÍMSEY

ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR

AKUREYRI

ILULISSAT EGILSSTAÐIR our very best price is always online. ITTOQQORTOORMIIT NUUK

highly seductive offers to all our destinations KULUSUK REYKJAVÍK iceland, greenland or the faroe islands NARSARSUAQ

THORSHOFN 27 TRAVEL Issue 2 — 2013 The Reykjavík Grapevine

“Welcome to the centre of the universe,” our massive ice cave where the glacier has split the guide Stefnir Gíslason says as we drive along rocky cliff in half. a snow-covered, two-lane road surrounded by Our guides warn us to not get too close barren, snow-covered cliffs. We are arriving at to the cave, as ice chunks could fall without the convergence zone of three massive glaciers, warning. Instead, I stand at the cavernous including the famously unpronounceable Eyjaf- opening and stare into the darkness, being jallajökull. careful not to get my boots wet in the icy river It’s almost 10:00 AM and the winter sun that flows from the cave. casts soft purplish-pink shadows across the To my right, our guides begin to rig a climb- landscape. The snow-covered horizon makes ing rope on a solid wall of ice just outside the it nearly impossible to distinguish where earth cave. Our second guide, Guðmundur Fannar meets sky. The still, desolate landscape hardly Markússon, gracefully swings the pick into the seems like the centre of anything, let alone the ice to demonstrate and secures it on the first universe. try. One by one we try our hand at the task, and we discover it isn’t so easy. IF YOU’RE EVER FORDING A RIVER It takes me several tries to secure the first pick, and even more tries to stab my crampons Our group of six—three guides and three travel- into the ice. Halfway up, my arms are beginning lers—are in the midst of the quiet solitude that to feel like jelly. Panting and sweaty, I finally is Þórsmörk Canyon, located about two hours reach the top and the guides lower me down. southeast of Reykjavík. Named after the Norse As my feet touch the ground, I realise how god Thor (Þór), the area is a popular hiking tightly I had been gripping the ice pick, and as spot for the more adventurous. I release my grasp I feel the blood rushing back For now, we take the landscape in from the into my now very sore fingers. comfort of our lifted Ford Expedition with mon- I am content to take a seat in the snow and ster truck-sized wheels. As we amble along watch the others try their hand at climbing in the cradle of Mýrdalsjökull glacier, Stefnir before we all pile back into the Ford, our refuge explains that the valley didn’t always look this from the cold. way. As chunks of ice and rock crunch under our massive tires, he points to the vehicle’s SOME THINGS ARE UNIVERSAL GPS, which suggests that the area is under- water. After the 2010 Eyjafjalljökull eruption, Before returning to paved asphalt roads and ci- the Krossá River became choked with debris vilisation, Stefnir once again veers our beastly and formed a large, ashy lagoon, which only vehicle off the beaten trail, and we begin our recently disappeared. ascent up Hamragarðaheiði, a mountain path Stefnir winds the car through the landscape that snakes up the Eyjafjöll mountains. before heading straight toward the river. He The sun begins to set, once again bathing slows down before crossing, looking over his the glistening snow in purplish-pink evening shoulder as if casually making a shadows. We reach a flat vantage point to stop, right hand turn onto a city and look out over the expansive wilder- street full of traffic. “Al- ness below. We even see the Westman ways cross at the widest Islands floating in the distance, like part of the river, it’s We reached a flat vantage fantasy castles in the in the clear, shallower,” he says crisp sky. gleefully as the mas- point to stop“ where we could Before heading back to the sive vehicle barrels see the Westman Islands float- black sand beaches at Landeyjarf- through the ice and jara, Einar Sigurðsson, our third water. He also notes ing in the distance, like fantasy guide, asks where we’d like to have it’s always better to dinner. I look at my fellow starving drive with the river cur- castles in the sky travellers, but none of us have any rent rather than against strong opinions. He suggests Gallery it, and to watch the edges „ Pizza in Hvolsvöllur, a favourite amongst of the river bank—the higher the guides. “I’ve never met anyone who the edge, the deeper the water. I didn’t like their pizza,” he says. can’t help but think he would make an excel- Some things, it seems, are universal. lent, if unconventional, driving instructor.

SORE FINGERS AND JELLY ARMS Answer to trivia question on page 2: We park the monster truck on the other side and gear up for a trek. We trudge through the crunchy snow for a good twenty minutes A Davíð Oddsson before arriving at our destination: the mouth of

airiceland.is

GRÍMSEY

ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR

AKUREYRI

ILULISSAT EGILSSTAÐIR our very best price is always online. ITTOQQORTOORMIIT NUUK highly seductive offers to all our destinations KULUSUK REYKJAVÍK iceland, greenland or the faroe islands NARSARSUAQ

THORSHOFN The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 Horseback riding trip provided by Íshestar, located in Hafnarfjörður, 20 minutes from Reykjavík. For more information about the tours they offer go to www.ishestar.is 28

With te : a D

Oyama Horseback riding with a fast-rising local band

This time last year, the band Oyama did not exist. By May, the five-piece was playing gigs and having their praises sung by fans and critics alike for

n their grungy, gauzy, early ‘90s slow-core tunes. They landed a management deal with Projekta after playing every night of Airwaves in November. Now O they are headed to by:Larm in Oslo in two weeks, followed by SXSW in Austin, Texas this March and The Great Escape in Brighton, England this May.

Horsing Around

Our trip took place the day after their Júlía Hermannsdóttir EP release concert, which they natural- Vocals and keyboard ly followed by some serious partying. (also of We Painted The Walls and After a rousing ninety-minute horse- Feather & Folly (NYC)) back ride through a snowy lava field Horse’s name: Slaufa outside of Hafnarfjörður, they looked a little exhausted and three of them were Having been a regular frozen to the bone (and that’s why you equestrian as a kid, always wear the coveralls!), but also she was the only ex- invigorated and refreshed. Here’s what perienced rider of the they each had to say about their expe- bunch and didn’t let a rience. little flu and fever stop her from having a nice Bergur Anderson day. “She was a very good horse,” she said. “She just did everything I told her Bass to so that was nice.” (also of Sudden Weather Change) Horse’s name: Embla Although the excur- Kári Einarsson sion was refreshing Guitar As news broke of them launching Rúnar: For me, it has a lot to do band that tells you “yeah, we’re do- enough to cure his (also of Fist Fokkers) their first EP, ‘I Wanna,’ we decided with when I was a teenager and I was ing nineties grunge shoegaze stuff,” hangover, by the Horse’s name: Sykur it was time to take this hard working just getting into music; that was the it can be really, really shitty. It’s very end he was riding Seemingly the most band out for some well-deserved fun kind of music I really liked then, so dependent on very good song writ- shotgun with the exhausted of the lot, and games. So we took them horse- it kind of shaped how I perceive mu- ing. tour leader, who he bundled up in a back riding. We picked them up the sic and how it should be. Now I don’t Úlfur: I wouldn’t even call us a was firmly holding onto his horse’s snowsuit and sad- morning after their EP release concert listen to this kind of music every day, shoegaze band because our new reins. “I think it’s because it was very dled up on a horse at Faktorý and got to know them as but I think it has a lot to do with that. songs are already starting to go in windy,” he said. “It makes the horses that looked like it had we headed to the stables. [Rest of the band agrees.] another direction. More psychedelic. very tense and mine was freaking out. a bit of an attitude problem. “He’s Úlfur: I just started writing songs Júlía: Yeah, we’re moving a little She just wanted to run back home.” okay, but seems to have a really big When you formed this band, that I would want My Bloody Valen- bit more into our own thing and the head,” he said. “He just kept biting on did you hope or expect to take tine, Sonic Youth or Dinosaur Jr. to people who come to our shows seem the metal thing!” this direction so quickly? write. Thinking like, if I was in those to be really into it, so maybe that’s a Rúnar Örn Magnússon bands, what kind of song would I sign that we should move a bit fur- Drums ther. Júlia: I don’t think any of us write, and I worked with that. (also of Me, the Slumbering Napoleon) Úlfur Alexander Einarsson thought this would happen, but at the Horse’s name: Ísar Vocals and guitar same time we all worked really hard Is that not being a How does it feel to have had Since he had never and put all our energy into this. bit derivative? all these big things happen in (also of Swords of Chaos, Útidúr and ridden a horse Úlfur: Over a year ago, I realised the last few months and to be Fist Fokkers) that I had been in bands for four years Úlfur: No, because they are still on the cusp of more? before, he admits Horse’s name: Eldur being nervous be- but none of them played my favourite our songs. We are still writing our Prior to arriving at forehand but con- kind of music, which is the kind that own melodies. We’re just under the Júlía: It’s great, but scary. I’ve the stables, he jok- cealed it well. “I Oyama plays. This kind of nineties, influence, you could say, but they been making music for so long but ingly maintained that was always kind indie, melodic, woozy rock with slow would never write the songs we write. more as a hobby and now it’s more he had never seen a of afraid of riding and I’m surprised eerie vocals. Nice stuff like that. I de- Júlía: For me the most important like work. horse. He, too, opted how it wasn’t a big deal,” he said. “My cided I had to form a band that played thing is not writing “shoegaze” mu- Rúnar: Extremely overwhelming, out of the snowsuit favourite part was when my horse what I really like. sic but writing good music, so if they but really enjoyable. I love it. When I and it made his already bad hangover all wasn’t running, but I’m really glad we wrote shoegaze but they were shitty was playing with Me, the Slumber- the worse. “It was fun, but I had a pretty went. It was great.” Is it all your favourite songs, I wouldn’t have joined the ing Napoleon, we were so lazy. It was bad headache,” he said. “And it was ex- kind of music? band. Honestly, when I showed up to just dudes hanging out and making tremely cold. We will never forget it.” the first practice I only knew Bergur, eccentric music that only we kind of Wit Júlía: It’s not my top favourite but and I was really bored and thinking, got. Oyama is so active and it’s so te h: a it’s definitely something I find really “oh shit, maybe they’re terrible mu- much fun. We’ve had a lot of success D

fun and that I can perform. I mean, I sicians, but I’ll give them a chance!” and it’s like… holy shit. This could be This is the first instalment of a new series where we take an interview out on an activ-

ity. Really it’s just a way for us to scam a date with some of the super cool, culturally

really like rap music but I can’t rap, [Everyone laughs.] for real. - REBECCA LOUDER n relevant and interesting people in town. Lucky us! so… [laughs.] Bergur: If you’re asked to join a O

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*Nordic house, Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavík, tel. 5517030, [email protected], www.nordichouse.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013 30 “An Ice Evening” At The Europa Restaurant & Bar

This poem about the EuroZone Crisis was written by Hallgrímur Helgason this summer for the International Literature Festi- val in Berlin and was published on the festival website in English and German along with 30 some other entries by fellow Euro- By Hallgrímur Helgason pean writers. He describes it as an ironic poem in which he imagines himself at a fictional reading somewhere in Mittel Europa.

It was during the crazy euro days, “They tell me that they’re also with the group. So when he left for the toilet I started thinking “Sometimes a reading is worthier than the eating, I came down from the furthest of the far. Even though their bill says otherwise. And asked a waiter for the Greek amount. Even when no reading has taken place. An e-mail said the reading would take place Instead of having the sausage and the soup “Three hundred forty nine,” he told me, blinking. You got me here to give your souls a feeding “In the famous Europa Restaurant & Bar”. They ordered steak béarnaise and a barrel of fries.” I opened the envelope and made a count. But ended up by stuffing it in your face.

The taxi driver, a man of the mustached world, The longhaired beauty stepped in: “It’s the Greeks. It proved enough, and thus we had a bailout Now there’s nothing left for us to eat Drove me madly, cursing each traffic light, They’re drunk and shouting about the credit crunch.” The waiter rushed outside: “It’s all OK! Except those things in life that come for free. While telling me in an accent I hadn’t heard: The national red of Austria lit her cheeks. The bill’s been paid!” And soon the bloody breakout So if you want, I might as well just read “I know this bar, is problem, sometime fight.” Waiter: “They’ve been sitting there since lunch.” Was back inside and asking: “Who did pay?” The lines your little brawl evoked in me:

He entered a dead end street, with foreign skill, “They say that you, or “the Germans”, have to pay,” I felt the pressure, they wanted me to say The Greeks have taught us everything we know Then suddenly stopped, and in the rear-view grinned. The server insisted, waving the heavy bill. Something, made me stand upon a stool: Even though they themselves forgot it all. In the face of his face my euro bill “This is not our European way…” “Who did pay and who did not want to pay? It’s only normal they now think we owe trembled like a candle in the wind. The man in the bright red jacket said with chill. It’s not a question from economic school.” Them a little trip to the Euro Mall.

The place was packed, with people sitting outside “Why on earth should others pay their food?! Their intercontinentally colored eyes An icy evening ends with the warmest greeting, Conversing loudly, a table sang in Greek. Why on earth should they not pay themselves?!” Lit up with egonomical confusion. From literature, this economic nurse. Down the street the day was out of light “Their travel fund got stolen by their dude Who got this Santa Claus from the land of ice? We hope you’ll get the message of our meeting: A bit like me, the arctic circle freak… So now they want some help from our reserves.” Yet I carried on with his conclusion: That the pen is mightier than the purse.”

Inside, the barscape breathed with old and cozy. Now Freude’s face was totally ohne Freude, Every mouth was stuffed with sound and sausage. His yellow teeth like stars in a bluish face. And every table seemed to be a country One could read his forehead: Diese Leute… For every table spoke its private language. While dandruff hovered like satellites in space.

Some English breakfast types were having dinner, After a heavy silence, he finally said: While the Slovakian couple in the corner “OK. Let me talk to Angela.” Had finished theirs, and the gayish guys from Finnair Where is she?” The Austrian pointed ahead: Were ordering a round of “Bakaardi Briser”. “She’s there with Nicolas, no… Francois.”

A chubby bald man came waving from the bar And in a moments time they all came over: In a bright red jacket, a button on his breast: Angela, Francois, Andy and some others, A deep blue sky with many a yellow star. While from behind the counter rushed the owner “Oh, here you are, our literary guest!” To have a little talk about the Commerz.

“I’m Andy Freude. Welcome to our club!” But in the middle of this hasty meeting He seemed half German, half Pit Bull Terrier, From the kitchen came two waiters ailing Looking like he owned an Irish pub. Holding plates containing chocolate pudding “So finally we have our Icelander!” And on their heels the calvados came sailing.

“Can you read in Icelandic? Wait! Let me fetch “Who ordered dessert? We’re only having coffee!” You a drink!” He left me reading the atmosphere: Angela thundered, glaring at the dishes. A swarming sea of countries, laughing heads, The three young waiters paused, one saying softly: But still, a touch of tension in the air. “The happy people outside had those wishes.”

A longhaired girl came rushing from outside “We all agreed on cuts in travel spending!” And gravely whispered into the bald man’s ear The sturdy looking woman almost shouted. Something about “Italians” and “tight”. And as the angry sentence gets an ending I helped them out by grabbing the bald man’s beer. Exclamation mark, the place exploded.

“Oh, sorry! Let me tell you about our team! They all ran out, their hairdos swiftly shaking We work across all borders, day and night, From angry voices attacking the table of Greece. Realizing the European dream There was some finger-pointing (and fingered pudding) Of one heart, one goal, one gezelligheid.” And counterattacking: “We have no money! Please!”

“We do believe that by connecting different countries Soon all of Europe was outside the Europa Different people will find a different substance With only the lonely writer left inside. That differs from their different differences. Ég fylgdist með og fékk mér annan sopa. It’s sort of a different way of making a difference.” The verbal war was now a bloody fight.

I managed to nod in the middle of a sip. Then Andy came back inside with a bunch of sorries “And all the people who are gathered here And one shoulder aching from a beating. Have been aboard our continental ship “Though we now could do with some ice cool stories, Sailing from Brest to Brest, since early this year.” I’m afraid we have to cancel the reading.”

Suddenly there was a waiter who said: “Still I want to pay you what we promised,” “The people outside, they do not want to pay.” He grimaced, pulling out an envelope. Mr. Freude immediately turned his head I didn’t feel like accepting, to be honest, Illustration Towards the windows. “Why? And who are they?” But of not accepting there was no hope. Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir

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[email protected] YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE +354 562 6555 Hverfisgata 89 TO LIFE, TRAVEL AND 101 Reykjavík ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Every Day Summer 08:00 - 22:00 Winter STUFFED WITH STUFF Issue 2 YOUR FREE COPY 09:00 - 18:00

Page 6 Glacier Walking & Ice Climbing We Proudly Wear If these tourists are still coming to enjoy the favourable exchange rate, they should know that goods and services Day Tour from are on average 60% more expensive than they were before the crash. Reykjavík! Is Iceland still a great deal for tourist? We investigate… Iceland!? Arctic Adventures offers the Blue Ice combo trip from Reykjavík City for only 21.990 ISK. It is a day tour Glacier walking and Ice Climbing on the Sólheimajökull glacier. A packed lunch and a visit to the famous Skógafoss waterfall is also included. We can pick you up from your Page 14 hotel or hostel in Reykjavík. Come and visit us at Laugavegur 11 next to the Fjallakofinn outdoor shop. We are open everyday between 8am and 10pm. You can also call us +354-562 7000, e-mail us [email protected], book online www.adventures.is, or ask for us at your hotel or nearest tourist information center.

Reykjavík's homeless problem doesn't manifest itself in the usual ways. It wouldn't be hard to spend a week or two downtown taking in the city's whimsical, idyllic atmosphere and be convinced that homelessness just doesn't exist in Iceland.

Taking a look inside the life of those who live outside.

Page 24

The tough part was convincing them that February was the right date. That was probably the hardest sell I have had to do.

Björn Steinbekk talks to us about managing the newly minted Reykjavík edition of the prestigious Sónar music festival

Page 28

After a rousing ninety-minute horseback ride through a snowy lava field outside of Hafnarfjörður, they looked exhausted and frozen to the bone (and that’s why you always wear the coveralls!), but also invigorated and refreshed. Ice Climbing Glacier Hike Horse Riding Snorkeling Diving Caving Snowmobile ATV Super-Jeep Sightseeing Combo Trip

More Iceland for less money

Daytours Bustravel Iceland offers daytours and a bus schedule to the Blue Lagoon. Explore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of Iceland.

Book online www.bustravel.is or call +354 511 2600 BORDERLINES –Visual narratives

Photography exhibition in the Nordic House, Reykjavík, January 26th–February 17th 2013

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Issue 2 - 2013 www.grapevine.is YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND

Paint The Town Pink Pink Iceland’s Masquerade Ball

Iðnó Saturday February 2, 21:00 Free admission before midnight, 1,500 ISK after This will be a night where, regardless of your sexual orientation, the inner queen within you is encouraged to shine with all that glitters. A stand out night on the Reykjavík gay scene, Pink Iceland’s Masquerade Ball is a highlight during the winter social season. Our gay scene is increasingly attracting rave reviews, both domestically and from abroad, and the Masquerade Ball promises to be spectacularly pink and gorgeous, with all the flair and glamour of a drag queen’s jewellery box. Guests are wholeheartedly encouraged to camp it up in the most jewel-bedecked mask as possible, with a prize being awarded to the best mask of the night. So on this night to out-colour everything else on offer, check out the Masquerade Ball and remember: don’t be a drag, just be a queen! JL Photo by Alísa Kalyanova MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE

February 15-16 Feb How to use the listings Venues are listed alphabetically by day. For complete listings and detailed information on venues or to add your own listing, visit www.listings. grapevine.is Friday February 1

Bar 11 • 21:00 Morning After Youth & Ferja Faktorý • 22:00 DJ KGB & Úlfur Úlfur Gamli Gaukurinn • 21:00 Guns ‘N’ Roses Tribute Night Harlem Sound Pulses & International Echos 22:00 Terrordisco Sónar Reykjavík Harpa Concert Hall • 22:30 Pink Iceland – Eurovision Harpa | 18:30 - 3:00 Concert Kaffibarinn 14.900 ISK • 20:00 DJ Kári Kjallarinn Our fair city is the latest to join the ranks of one of the most inno- • 22:00 DJ Dramatík vative and experimental international festivals. Since 1994, Sónar Prikið has been held in Barcelona as a symposium and concert series • 20:00 Logi Pedro focused on new media art and advanced music, and in 2002 it became an international franchise with events held in places like São Saturday February 2 Paulo, Tokyo, Frankfurt, Montreal, Chicago and many more. Over the years it has hosted cutting edge electronic artists, musical Bar 11 groundbreakers and cultural iconoclasts. Now it is our turn. • 21:00 Dimma Over the third weekend of the month, Harpa will turn into Sónar Faktorý central – including the underground parking lot and a scenic • 22:00 DJ Stef section of the main lobby – and will bring together a choice mix Gamli Gaukurinn of international megastars like LFO, Squarepusher, Alva Noto and • 22:00 HETJUR Ryuichi Sakamoto, local heroes like GusGus, Valgeir Sigurðsson, Gay 46 Ghostigital and Sin Fang and top it all off with some up and com- • 21:00 DJ Early ing names in local electronic music. The Grapevine will be there Harlem to cover it all, too! Concert reviews will be posted the day after the • 22:00 FM Belfast DJs concerts on www.grapevine.is. RL Hressó • 22:00 Tandoori Johnsson & DJ Prikið Biggi Friday February 8 • 20:00 Benni B Ruff Iðnó Volta • 22:00 Pink Iceland – Pink Party Bar 11 • 23:00 DJ Yamaho, Gluteus Maxi- Kaffibarinn • 21:00 Endless Dark mus and Tim Green • 20:00 Maggi Legó a.k.a Hunk of Gamli Gaukurinn a Man • 22:00 Why Not Jack's Sunday February 10 THE KITCHEN Prikið Gay 46 • 20:00 DJ Árni Kacoon • 21:00 DJ Tooth Harlem Harlem • 18:00 NBA sports IS OPEN UNTIL Sunday February 3 • 22:00 Housekell Kaffibarinn Kaffibarinn • 20:00 Kristinn Pálsson Harlem • 20:00 Alfons X Prikið MIDNIGHT ON • 18:00 NBA and Super Bowl Kjallarinn • 20:00 Hangover Cinema - My Kaffibarinn • 22:00 DJ Kollster Cousin Vinny • 20:00 Kristinn Pálsson Prikið WEEKENDS Prikið • 00:00 Bjossi and Egill Monday February 11 • 20:00 Movie night – Dog Day Volta 17 – 23 SUN – THU Afternoon • 21:00 Hjaltalín, Bloodgroup, Sóley Harlem • 20:00 DJ BearLion Monday February 4 Saturday February 9 Kaffibarinn • 20:00 AnDre (Extreme Chill) Faktorý Faktorý Prikið • 20:00 Divine Intervention • 22:00 RVK Soundsystem (down- • 20:00 Monday Club Harlem stairs) • 20:00 Bad Movie Night: Troll 2 • 22:00 Birds by Snow (US), Útidúr, Tuesday February 12 Kaffibarinn Just Another Snake Cult & Good • 20:00 Pan (Extreme Chill) Moon Deer (upstairs) Harlem Prikið Gay 46 • 20:00 Thule Music Quiz • 20:00 Monday Bingo • 21:00 DJ Manny Kaffibarinn Háskólabíó • 20:00 Óli Dóri Tuesday February 5 • 21:00 Skálmöld album release Prikið concert. 4.990 ISK • 20:00 DJ Hús Harlem Hressó • 20:00 Jóní de la Rosa • 22:00 Spútnik Wednesday February 13 Kaffibarinn Kaffibarinn • 20:00 Símon FKNHNDSM • 20:00 Terrordisco Harlem Prikið Kjallarinn • 22:00 Plan B • 20:00 Ljósvaki • 22:00 DJ Kidda Rokk Kaffibarinn Wednesday February 6 • 20:00 Lagaffe Tales label night

Harlem • 20:00 It Is Magic Kaffibarinn • 20:00 Atli Kanill – Ninja Tune Special Kjallarinn • 22:00 DJ Kidda Rokk UNO’s addictive Prikið Italian Gourmet Burger • 20:00 Dungeon Massive Thursday February 7

Ban Thai is the finest Thai restaurant in Iceland Tel: 692-0564 1/10 The Best Restaurant in Iceland Bar 11 the best thai food • 21:00 Camp Keighley & Stolið 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012 Dolly ...... • 21:00 Breakbeat Residency night w w w . b a n t h a i . n a m e w w w . y u m m y . i s Vesturgata Tryggvagata Faktorý • 22:00 Nóra and Oyama Gamli Gaukurinn BanThai • 22:00 Biggi Maus & 1860 Hafnarstræti Harlem Ingólfs- torg • 20:00 DJ Pilsner Aðalstræti Austurst. UNO at Ingólfstorg Veltusund Hressó Tel. 561 1313 | www.uno.is • 22:00 Reykjavík Winter Festival Concert Kaffibarinn Laugavegur 130, ofan við Hlemm • 20:00 HúsDJús with BenSol Prikið Harlem • 20:00 El Jeffe & Padrino • 20:00 Karaoke night Sunday February 24 Volta Hressó • 22:00 Extreme Chill • 22:00 Audio Nation Harlem Kaffibarinn • 18:00 NBA sports Thursday February 14 • 20:00 HúsDJús with Alfons X Kaffibarinn Kjallarinn • 20:00 Kristinn Pálsson Bar 11 • 22:00 DJ Kollster Prikið • 21:00 Abcination & Azoi Prikið • 20:00 Hangover Cinema: Fear and Faktorý • 20:00 Housekell Loathing in Las Vegas • 22:00 Dikta Harlem Friday February 22 Monday February 25 • 22:00 Einar Sonic Kaffibarinn Bar 11 Harlem • 20:00 HúsDJús with GALDUR • 21:00 Champions Of Death • 20:00 Krystal Carma Kjallarinn Faktorý Kaffibarinn • 22:00 DJ Kidda Rokk • 22:00 DJ Major Disco • 20:00 Jón Kórstjóri Prikið Gamli Gaukurinn Prikið • 20:00 Introbeats • 22:00 Project Lone Wolf • 20:00 DJ Hús Volta Gay 46 • 22:00 Sónar Off-Venue • 21:00 DJ Early Tuesday February 26 Harlem Friday February 15 • 22:00 Pedro Pilatus Harlem Hressó • 20:00 Pub Quiz Faktorý • 22:00 A+ & DJ Biggi • 22:00 Benni B Ruff Prikið Wednesday February 27 Gay 46 20:00 DJ Bossi og Eggi • 21:00 DJ Veloci Harlem Harlem Saturday February 23 • 20:00 Wednesday Night Fish Fry • 22:00 KGB Prikið Hressó Faktorý • 22:00 Maggi Legó a.k.a B4 • 22:00 Dusty Miller & Kaleo • 22:00 DJ Atli Kanill Kaffibarinn Gamli Gaukurinn Thursday February 28 • 20:00 FKNHNDSM DJs • 22:00 Chris Cornell Tribute Kjallarinn Gay 46 Bar 11 • 22:00 DJ Bluescreen • 21:00 DJ Dick&Dyke • 21:00 Heimir Klemenz & Dusty Prikið Hressó Miller • 22:00 Sunna Ben & Danni • 22:00 Dalton Gamli Gaukurinn Volta Kaffibarinn • 22:00 Oyama, The Heavy Experi- • 22:00 Boogie Trouble, Jón Þór, Just • 20:00 KGB ence & Tamarin Gunslinger Another Snake Cult Kjallarinn Harlem • 22:00 DJ Milla • 20:00 Hermigervill Saturday February 16 Prikið Kaffibarinn • 20:00 MC Gauti and DJ Benni B • 20:00 HúsDJús with Karl Tryggva- Gay 46 Ruff son & Gunni Ewok • 21:00 DJ Bluescreen Volta Prikið Harlem • 22:00 Dale Howard • 20:00 Logi Pedro • 22:00 Danni Deluxe Hressó • 22:00 Penta Reunion Kaffibarinn • 20:00 CasaNova Kjallarinn • 22:00 DJ Kidda Rokk 14 Prikið Feb • 20:00 DJ Árni Kacoon

Sunday February 17

Prikið • 20:00 Hangover Cinema: Space Jam Laugavegi 20a, 101 RVK, 552 2300, lebowskibar.is Volta • 22:00 Surprise Sónar DJs

Monday February 18

Kaffibarinn • 20:00 Pilsner Prikið • 20:00 Drink and Draw Monday

Tuesday February 19

Harlem • 20:00 Pub quiz night Kaffibarinn Dark Side Of The Tunes • 20:00 DJ Pabbi Prikið Reykjavík Sex Farm Travel the • 20:00 Game night and DJ Hús Litla Gula Hænan | 21:30 Wednesday February 20 When not building prosthetic limbs at Össur or writing CD and concert world of Harlem reviews for print, the Grapevine’s music manager Bob Cluness has been • 20:00 DJ Katla publishing his musical yearnings and ponderings on his blog, Reykjavík Thursday February 21 Sex Farm, since 2010. Also an avid mixmaker, he is taking his laments music from the web to the dance floor and starting this new monthly club night Bar 11 • 21:00 Sisý Ey that focuses on music’s darker genres – UK funky, grime, hard tech, Gamli Gaukurinn industrial and goth. The inaugural night on the eve of the Sónar fest will • 22:00 Morgan Kane, Sagtmoðigur, feature sets by Kalli (of Breakbeat.is) and Hypno, both seasoned elec- Axeorder & Sushi Submarine tronic DJs. Take your brooding ass out and sulk while you shuffle. RL

Scan the QR Code See our website to see your menu www.cafehaiti.is We roast our own coffee!

Free Internet Cold beer - wine

Located by the old harbor Affordable food and snacks Scan the QR Code Relaxed atmosphere Breakfast from 8 A.M to get directions Live Music on weekends Homemade cakes

Café Haítí, Geirsgötu 7b, 101 Reykjavík. Tel 588 8484 Opening hours Mon-Thu 8-18 Fri-Sat 9-23 Sundays 10-18 Box office » 528 5050 » www.sinfonia.is » www.harpa.is i8 Gallery Tryggvagata 16 101 Reykjavík ART www.i8.is 17 January - 9 March 2013 RAGNA RÓBERTSDÓTTIR OPENINGS AND ONGOING February

How to use the listings: Venues are listed alphabetically by day. For complete listings and detailed information on venues visit www. grapevine.is Send us your listings: listings@ grapevine.is Opening

ASÍ Art Museum 16 February Eirún Sigurðardóttir – Gæfusmiður. A selection of works from Icelandic artist Eirún Sigurðardóttir. Runs until March 10 Hafnarborg Viking Bling 23 February Sirra Sigrun Sigurdardottir Icelandic Silverware From Across The Ages Sirra Sigrun Sigurdardottir’s work National Museum Of Iceland often seems to find its footing on a thin line between art and Suðurgat 41| Opens February 24 1.000 ISK entertainment. Runs until March 17 To commemorate the museum’s 150th anniversary this beautiful Kling og Bang Gallery collection of Icelandic silverwork will definitely show off Icelanders 23 February skills at crafting their bling. Spanning across the centuries, these Nacho Cheese - Anna Hrund Másdóttir & Hildigunnur stunningly made pieces form part of an exhibition that focuses on Birgisdóttir the methods used to make them and what processes were involved. An exhibition of both designers This is one silver collection to behold, regardless of whether silver The National Museum of Iceland works. Runs until March 24 is your preferred metal of choice or not. At the same time another celebrates its 150th anniversary 2013. Kuntschlager exhibition, Part-Time Silversmith, will be opened where guests can February 2 see the tools that silversmiths of the past used to make their objects Along with the permanent exhibition that features Baldur Geir Bragason opens his exhibition with Sólveig Pálsdóttir with. Definitely a bling-bling exhibit to dazzle your eyes on. JL Iceland’s history from settlement to present day the as artist of the week. February 23 museum will offer a variety of exhibitions during the Runs until May 5 A selection of pieces from the Swiss artist Nina Weber will be year, e.g. on Icelandic silver and photography. 8 February collection of the National Gallery the first foreign guest to exhibit Old Treasures displaying a variety of works by at the gallery. Various artworks from the gallery’s Icelandic artists in the last two National Museum of Iceland collection that are often not shown centuries. 24 February due to limitations of space. On permanent view Opening hours: Icelandic Silverwork Runs until May The Library Room Summer (1. May-15. September): Daily 10-17 To commemorate the 150th Nordic House The old reading room of the Winter (16. September-30. April): Tuesday-Sunday 11-17 anniversary of the National Museum February 7 National Library displays books of of Iceland a new exhibition on Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík. 700IS Reindeerland, experimental Icelandic cultural history dating from various silver items made in Iceland tel: 530 2200 [email protected] art festival will take place this year in the 16th century to the present day. throughout the centuries will be the Nordic House. Works include the oldest published shown in the Arc Hall. Runs until February 10 versions of the Sagas, Edda Poems On temporary view Þoka and more. Reykjavík Art Gallery 23 February On permanent view 15 February Ragnheiður Harpa Leifdóttir The Einar Jónsson Museum Overdose & Underdose Performance beginning at 4pm. The museum contains close to 300 GÓMS are two very different artists, art works including a beautiful tree- Margeir Dire & Georg Óskar. This clad garden adorned with 26 bronze show is a continuation of their Ongoing casts of the artist's works is located cooperation in a shared workspace behind the museum. during the years 2008-2009. Now ASÍ Art Museum On permanent view they met again on the canvas in Part of a Part of a Part Hafnarborg a visual orgy that leaves no one In his work Bjarki Bragason often January 12 unsatisfied. confronts issues regarding historical Gravity - Circular Motion by Runs until March 3 events. Björk Viggosdóttir Reykjavík Art Museum Runs until February 10 A new installation exhibition that (Kjavalsstaðir) The Culture House encompasses multiple and diverse Borgartún 1 - s: 551-7700 gsm: 8217163 2 February Medieval Manuscripts Eddas media. Zoom Out – Salon exhibition and Sagas Runs until March 17 from the collection It includes principal medieval Drawings - Ingolfur Arnarsson A chance to see works of art manuscripts, such as Codices Regii January 12 on display from the museum’s of the Poetic Edda, Prose Edda, law Pristine delicacy is a characteristic collection, some of which haven’t codices and Christian works, not of both Ingolfur's paintings and been exhibited in many years. The forgetting the Icelandic Sagas. drawings. exhibition will be rotated frequently, On permanent view Runs until February 17 constantly changing the layout. Child of Hope - Youth and Jón i8 Gallery Runs until May 20 Sigurðsson Ragna Róbertsdóttir National Gallery of Iceland Exploring the life of Icelandic A collection of landscapes which are 8 February national hero Jón Sigurðsson, made applied directly onto the wall. Foreign Influences especially accessible to children, Runs until March 9 An exhibition of work from artists families and school groups. Kling og Bang Gallery from all around the world that are On permanent view REFLAR -Fragments of Life by owned by the gallery. Millennium - phase one Jóna Hlíf Halldórsdóttir and THE FRESHEST FISH ....AND IDEAS!

After years of study, learn Icelandic – one day – two days – three strings of awards and having led kitchens of days – four days – five days – learn how to some of Reykjavík’s most with Icelanders – esteemed restaurants, cook Icelandic dishes Gústav still sees him self as just a kid from walk with the natives around Reykjavík – up north, with a lifetime passion for fish. learn about the story of Reykjavík and Iceland and enjoy Reykjavík in a different way – a help with native eyes beside you – best of Icelandic ingredients – learn Icelandic and about Iceland – one evening SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK - 571 1100 – stay with us – www.skoli.eu IN YOUR POCKET WHATS INSIDE Reykjavík Map Happy Hour Guide Places we like Best of Reykjavík Practical Info

Reykjavík Area February 1 - 28 Keep it in your pocket Four Weeks The Grapevine picks the events, places and what to experience the next four weeks

BAD MOVIE NIGHT 9 SAT FLASHMOB Kringlan Gangam Style 4 Can't get enough of PSY's horse-trot FEB Troll 2 dance? Head to the mall at 14:00 to join the attempt at Iceland's biggest flashmob. Stick around after for speed-dancing!

TUESDAYS MUSIC KEXJazz Enjoy live jazz and delicious snacks in this stylish hostel. Upcoming shows include Norway's Monkeybar and a tribute to Pat Metheny.

27 WED MUSIC Jarðaber Concert Series The Reykjavík Art Museum Hafnarhús hosts this ongoing event dedicated to avant-garde music played on electro- acoustic instruments.

WEDNESDAYS DANCE 5Rhythms Dance Head over to Dansverkstæðið on Skúlagata and get moving. This dynamic class is for "You Don’t Piss On Hospitality!" people of all ages, sizes and shapes. No Free registration required. Harlem, Tryggvagata 22 20:00

There are three things you need to know about Troll DANCE 2: it has nothing to do with a previously made movie THURSDAYS named ‘Troll’, there aren’t any trolls in the movie and Salsa Nights no one ever says the word ‘troll’. In fact, no one is quite sure what the fuck is going on in it! The child actor from the movie later made a documentary about it called ‘Best Worst Movie’ to try and figure out what they were even doing and, more importantly, why are people loving this movie now! It is so wonderfully bad. It is piss your pants funny. Just don’t do it on the table. RL

31.26 PHOTOGRAPHY JAN-MAR Double Exposure

Let Your Latin Side Go Loca! Reykjavik Museum Free entrance, specials on mojitos Thorvaldsen, Austurstræti 8 21 :00 of Photography

In the cold and dark of the Icelandic winter, a little slice of Latin America will definitely help defrost Exhibitions all year round your joints and improve your movement on the Paula Prats – Found / Dot dance floor. All are welcome at this fun and carefree ADMISSION FREE Free evening, whether you’ve never danced in your life Reykjavík Museum of Photography 10:00 or you can whirl around the dance floor like you’re Between two exhibits, there are many ways to look. fresh out of a Rio ballroom. Teachers are on hand to Paula Prats creates as many as possible, with games give tips and pointers and after the classes end the of broken telephone between the past and present in music doesn’t stop. For those not feeling so much of her diptych series ‘Found’, and a physically confounding a twinkletoes on the evening then you can sit and watch or just enjoy the music at the bar. An exciting chain of images with ‘Dot’. Embrace the ordinary, look for GRÓFARHÚS 6th Floor the emptiness, and follow what may seem useless, and way of getting to know new people as well as a bit of Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavik discover that the experience may elevate your under- fun, this is the perfect time to spice up an otherwise Opening Hours: Mon–Thu 12–19 standing of the images you see. RL dark and cold winter night, Latino style. Olé! JL Fridays 12–18, Weekends 13–17 www.photomuseum.is HÓLMASLÓÐ

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Viðey MAP ferry MAP KLETTAGARÐAR Places We Like A FISKISLÓÐ Cruise harbour Food GRANDAGARÐUR 1 Icelandic Fish & Chips Tryggvagata 8 Maritime Sigurjón KLETTAGARÐAR Museum Art Not your average fish ’n’ chips joint, this healthy restaurant uses only organic The Old Museum vegetables and quality fish products to B Harbour VESTURGARÐAR serve their fancy take on a fast-food classic. UST The spiced ‘Skyronnaise’ sauce is a special ÁNANA MÝRARGATA Old treat, and their clean, casual location by the harbour is full of charm. Harbour NÝLENDUGATA Area 2 SÆBRAUT Gandhi 3 5 KLEPPSVEGUR Pósthússtræti 17 HOLTSGATA MNESVEGUR FRA 1 RÁNARGATA EIÐSGRANDIIf you think Iceland has nothing to offer in the VESTURGATA 13 SUNDABORG way of Indian food, then you’ll be pleasantly C GEIRSGATA Harpa surprised toGRANDAVEGUR know about Gandhi, Reykjavík’s BÁRUGATA 4 Concert premiere South Indian restaurant. The menu Reykjavík Hall KIRKJUSANDUR is made up of different masala, tikkaHRINGBRAUT and ÖLDUGATA Art KLEPPSVEGUR Museum tandoori dishes compose and also various BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR A seafood curries. ÆGISGATA Main TRYGGVAGATA Down ÁLAGRANDI Tourist Central Info Bank SÓLVA HÁVALLAGATA B Town SÖLVHÓLSGATA

GARÐASTRÆTI LLAGATA HAFNARSTRÆTIA LAUGALÆKUR 3 Búllan ÁSVALLAGATA TÚNGATA SKÚLAGATA SÆBRAUT D DALBRAUT VATNAGARÐAR 6 E AUSTURSTRÆTI Culture Geirsgata 1 9 House AusturD- Considered by some to be the best “real” AÐALSTRÆTI MEISTARAVELLIR völlur National hamburger in Reykjavík, “Búllan” does serve KIRKJUSTRÆTI HVERFISGATA BANKASTRÆTI Theatre LINDARGATA UR some mysteriously delicious burgers, guar- BRÚNAVEGUR Icelandic SUNDLAUGAVEGUR anteed to take the edge off any hangover. SÓLVALLAGATA Parliament 2 SÆBRAUT PÓSTHÚSST. AMTMANNSST. This is a very cool little hamburger bar, where VONARSTRÆTI F 7 SÆTÚN LAUGARNESVEG you can sit right up close to the counter and KLAPPARSTÍGUR KAPLASKJÓLSVEGUR LÆKJARGATATaxi G Laugardals savour the amazing smells as these top class BÓKHL.ST. 12 8 10 HRAUNTEIGUR HRINGBRAUT burgers are cooked away. REYNIME B VATNSSTÍGUR ÚN Swimming E BORGART

City LAUG Uptown Pool AVEGUR VESTURBRÚN AUSTURBRÚN Vesturbæjar VÍÐIMELUR SUÐURGATA 11 HRÍSATEIGUR LUR Hall HOFSVALLAGATA INGÓLFSSTRÆTI KIRKJUTEIGUR Swimming4 Munnharpan SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTI LAUGARÁSVEGUR GRENIMELUR TJARNARGATA PoolAusturbakki 2 VEGUR TAÐARSTRÆTI The Camping HAGAMELUR Tower SÓLTÚN site Tjörnin BERGS KAMBSVEGUR Danish cuisine with the inherent French R GRETTISGATA SKÚLAGATA influence and a little more French sprinkled HOFTEIGUR

LAUFÁS - LAUFÁS HJALLAVEGUR

MELHAGI FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR on top. Munnharpan is owned by the same ESPIMELU Hlemmur ÓATÚN N ÓÐINSGATA LOKASTÍGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR HÖFÐATÚN REYKJAVEGUR people that run Jómfrúin, a long-standing National ÞÓRSGATA Bus Terminal LANGHOLTSVEGUR MIÐTÚN favourite in the local scene. The meals are Gallery GRUNDARSTÍGUR Taxi LAUGATEIGUR F VITASTÍGUR HÓLSVEGUR EFSTASUND mostly suitable with plenty of light courses SKOTHÚSVEGUR of Iceland NJÁLSGATA Laugardalur NESHAGI URUMELUR F offering a selection of smørrebrød (Danish BARÓNSSTÍGUR HÁTÚN BERGÞÓRUGATA open faced sandwiches) mixed with classic SNORRABRAUT SIGTÚN BIRKIMELUR Hallgríms

National ÝRARBRAUT French courses. BALDURSGATA C kirkja library Church LAUGAVEGUR HÁTÚN DYNGJUVEGUR 5 ForréttabarinnKVISTHAGI West SÓLEYJARGATA BRAUTARHOLT

FREYJUGATA BRAGAGATA The Einar KRINGLUM Nýlendugata 14 Side NJARÐARGATA National Jónsson RÁRSTÍGUR museum Museum This hip restaurant offers delicious starter- Sundhöllin SKIPHOLT ENGJAVEGUR HAFNARSTRÆTI 5 & FJÖLNISVEGUR sized dishes at very reasonable prices. G Swimming RAUÐA SUNNUVEGUR SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 10 ENGJATEIGUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI Pool Traditional Icelandic coursesFORNHAGI such as the EGILSGATA EIRÍKSGATABARÓNSSTÍGUR minkeÆGISÍÐA whale and theHJARÐARHAGI horse are highly HRINGBRAUTHljómskáli SKIPHOLT Zoo and recommended. The open kitchen also allows University Park NÓATÚN HALLARMÚLI family park excellent views of the chefs as they prepare B of Iceland LAUF DUNHAGI Laugardalshöll SKIPASUND the dishes in front of you, adding to the cool ÁSVEGUR

factor of the place. SÆMUNDARGATA Sports hall HÁTEIGSVEGUR

SNORRABRAUT Drinking HOLTAVEGUR EFSTASUND H GUNNARSBRAUT LANGHOLTSVEGUR TÓMASARHAGI STURLUAGATA Nordic House LÁGMÚLI ÁRMÚLI 6 Micro Bar FLÓKAGATA Culture Center VATNSMÝRARVEGUR Austurstræti 6 7 8 ENGJAVEGUR FÁLKAGATA Den Danske Kro Kaffibarinn 9 The English Pub One of Reykjavík’s newest bars also boasts GAMLA HRINGBRAUT Ingólfsstræti 3 Bergstaðastræti 1 Austurstræti 12 Kjarvalsstaðir one of the city’s largest selection of draught Taxi RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR This Danish-themed bar is located on National beers. It carries eight different kinds of A popular café on weekdays, on weekends True to its name,BSÍ the English Pub offers many Museum SUÐURLANDSBRAUT Ingólfsstræti, justARAGATA off Laugavegur. They different kindsCoac ofh lager on tap and a whiff of beer on tap, as well as bottled beer from Kaffibarinn turnsNJARÐARGATA into a ticket for a wild night serve up Danish favourites,ODDAGATA such as open Terminal ÚTHLÍÐ microbreweries in Iceland, Denmark, out, as the space fills up with the late-night that genuine UK feel. Try the famous “wheel faced smørrebrød sandwiches, Tuborg beer of fortune” where one can win up to a metre Belgium and Scotland. No doubt the biggest EGGERTSGATA souls oozing energy in every corner. With STAKKAHLÍÐ Klambratún and Akavit schnapps. Their ‘Happy Hour’, DJs playing and the occasional rock band, of beer with a single spin. In addition the pub ÁRMÚLI beer selection in town. LYNGHAGI Park every day between 16–19, is a great source the party usually lasts until early morning, yet has several large screens which can show BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ LANGAHLÍÐ of fun. How to ask for a large beer in Danish: SÍÐUMÚLI often manages to leave you begging for more. different types of sports at once, providing MIKLABRAUT HÁALEITISBRAUT

HRINGBRAUT KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT STARHAGI “Hej, jeg vil gerne ha’ en stor øl, tak”. something for everyone. ÁLFHEIMAR SKAFTAHLÍÐ

ÁLFTAMÝRI GOÐHEIMAR

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR Useful numbers Hafnarstræti 20, tel: 540 1313 10:00–16:00, Sun. closed. The shopping cen- SAFAMÝRI Public transport SÓLHEIMAR ESKIHLÍÐ tres Kringlan and Smáralind as well as most SKÓGARHLÍÐ BARMAHLÍÐ Emergency number: 112 The Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti BÚSTAÐAVEGUR The only public transport available in Reykjavík supermarkets and tourist shops have longer Medical help: 1770 2, tel: 522 4979 is the bus. Most buses run every 20–30 REYKJAHLÍÐ Trip, Laugavegur 54, tel: 433 8747 opening hours. MIKLABRAUT Dental emergency: 575 0505 MÁVAHLÍÐ minutes (the wait may be longer on weekends) Swimming pools: Weekdays 06:30–22:00 Pharmacies Information: 118 and the price per fare is 350 ISK for adults and STIGAHLÍÐ LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA and weekends 09:00–17:00, although each Taxi: Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir: 588 5522 Lyf og heilsa, Egilsgata 3, tel: 563 1020 children. Multiple day passes are available for pool varies plus or minus a few hours. DRÁPUHLÍÐ BSR: 561 0000 Lyfja, Laugavegur 16, tel: 552 4045 and purchase at select locations. Complete route Banks in the centre are open Mon.-Fri. GNOÐARVOGUR Reykmap availablejavík at: www.bus.is. Tel: 540 2700. Tax Free Refund Lágmúla 5, tel: 533-2300 09:00-16:00. Domestic SKEIFAN Buses run from 07:00–24:00 on weekdays and BLÖNDUHLÍÐ GRÆNAHLÍÐ Coach terminal Post Offices STAKKAHLÍÐ Iceland Refund, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 564 6400 Ai10:00–24:00rport on weekends.Taxi Main terminals are: BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Tourist information Hlemmur and Lækjartorg Post offices are located around the city. The tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is downtown post office is at Pósthússtræti 3–5, MIKLABRAUT Arctic Adventures, Laugavegur 11, Opening Hours FELLSMÚLI Domestic airlines open Mon.–Fri. 09:00–18:00. Stamps are also FLUGVALLARVEGUR GRENSÁSVEGUR tel: 562 7000 Bars and clubs: According to regulations, sold at bookstores, gas stations, tourist shops Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, bars can stay open until 01:00 on weekdays City Centre, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 590 1550 and some grocery stores. HAMRAHLÍÐ Kringlan Iceland Excursions – Grayline Iceland, tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is and 05:30 on weekends. Shopping C Eagle Air, Hótel Loftleiðir, tel: 562-4200 Shops: Mon.–Fri. 10:00–18:00, Sat. Mall HÖRGSHLÍÐ EINARSNES

HÁAHLÍÐ

BÚSTAÐAVEGUR

IGAHLÍÐ

All the events and allBAUGANES the action Hótel Loftleiðir

SKILDINGANES Perlan LISTABRAUT on 5 Big HD Screens. Save Water, Drink Beer Live music every night.

AUSTURSTRÆTI 12 • 101 REYKJAVÍK • [email protected] OFANLEITI

D Öskjuhlíð KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT MENNTAVEGUR

VESTURHLÍÐ

SUÐURHLÍÐ

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR

University of Reykjavík

Nauthólsvík HÓLMASLÓÐ

6 7 8 9 Venue Finder New In Town Music & Entertainment Viðey Amsterdam Gamli Gaukurinn ferry Hafnarstræti 5 | D3 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Austur Gay 46 Austurstræti 7 | E3 Hverfisgata 46| E5 KLETTAGARÐAR FISKISLÓÐ Cruise B5 Ölsmiðjan Bankastræti 5 | E4 Lækjargata 10 | E4 harbour Babalú Hressó GRANDAGARÐUR Skólavörðustígur 22 | F5 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Bar 11 Mánabar Hverfisgötu 18 | E5 Hverfisgata 20 | E5 Maritime Sigurjón KLETTAGARÐAR Museum Bjarni Fel Kaffi Zimsen Austurstræti 20 | E4 Hafnarstræti 18 | D4 Art Museum The Old Boston Kaffibarinn Harbour Laugavegur 28b | F6 Bergstraðastræti 1 | E5 VESTURGARÐAR Café Paris Nýlenduvöruverzlun ÁNANAUST Austurstræti 14 | E4 Hemma & Valda MÝRARGATA Old Celtic Cross Laugavegur 21 | E5 Harbour Hverfisgata 26 | E5 Næsti Bar NÝLENDUGATA Area 13 Hafnarbúðir Ingólfstræti 1A | E5 Den Danske Kro SÆBRAUT Ingólfsstræti 3 | E4 Ölstofan Geirsgata 9 KLEPPSVEGUR HOLTSGATA Dillon Vegamótastígur | E5 After the unsuccessful attempts at a bird FRAMNESVEGUR Laugavegur 30 | F6 Prikið RÁNARGATA EIÐSGRANDI VESTURGATA museum, a Portuguese restaurant and Bankastræti | E4 Dolly SUNDABORG GEIRSGATA Harpa a tourism booking office, the building GRANDAVEGUR Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 Rósenberg BÁRUGATA Concert that guards the gate to the old harbour is Dubliner Klapparstígur 25 | E5 Reykjavík Hall now officially known as Hafnarbúðir (The Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D3 Sólon KIRKJUSANDUR HRINGBRAUT ÖLDUGATA Art Harbour Shop). It now houses the offices of KLEPPSVEGUR Museum Esja Bankastræti 7A | E4 BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR Elding Whale Watching as well as a design ÆGISGATA Main TRYGGVAGATA Austurstræti 16 | E4 Thorvaldsen Down and concept store, Mýrin and the bistro and ÁLAGRANDI Tourist Austurstræti 8 | D3 Central café Mar, all in a fancy new interior. English Pub Info Bank SÓLVALLAGATAHÁVALLAGATA Town SÖLVHÓLSGATA Austurstræti 12 | E3 Vegamót

GARÐASTRÆTI Vegamótastígur 4 | E6 Faktorý LAUGALÆKUR ÁSVALLAGATA HAFNARSTRÆTI TÚNGATA SKÚLAGATA SÆBRAUT Smiðjustígur 6 | E5 DALBRAUT VATNAGARÐAR AUSTURSTRÆTI Culture House Austur- AÐALSTRÆTI MEISTARAVELLIR völlur KIRKJUSTRÆTI HVERFISGATANational BANKASTRÆTI Theatre LIND UR ARGATA Museums & Galleries BRÚNAVEGUR Icelandic SUNDLAUGAVEGUR SÓLVALLAGATA Parliament ART67 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F4 SÆBRAUT PÓSTHÚSST. AMTMANNSST. VONARSTRÆTI Laugavegur 67 | F7 Tue–Sun 11–17 SÆTÚN Mon - Fri 12 - 18 / Sat www.listasafn.is LAUGARNESVEG KLAPPARSTÍGUR KAPLASKJÓLSVEGUR LÆKJARGATATaxi 12 - 16 BÓKHL.ST. The National Museum HRAUNTEIGUR Laugardals HRINGBRAUT REYNIMELUR VATNSSTÍGUR ÚN ASÍ Art Museum Suðurgata 41 | G2 Swimming BORGART

City LAUGAV Uptown Freyugata 41 | H6 Open daily 10–17 Pool VESTURBRÚN AUSTURBRÚN Vesturbæjar VÍÐIMELUR SUÐURGATA Hall EGUR Tue–Sun 13–17 natmus.is HRÍSATEIGUR HOFSVALLAGATA INGÓLFSSTRÆTI KIRKJUTEIGUR Swimming SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR www.listasafnasi.is ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTI The Nordic House LAUGARÁSVEGUR GRENIMELUR TJARNARGATA Pool VEGUR TAÐARSTRÆTI The Árbæjarsafn Sturlugata 5 Camping Kistuhylur 4 Tue–Sun 12–17 HAGAMELUR Tower SÓLTÚN site BERGS KAMBSVEGUR Tjörnin The Culture House www.nordice.is GRETTISGATA SKÚLAGATA Hverfisgata 15 | E5 Restaurant Reykjavík HOFTEIGUR

LAUFÁS - LAUFÁS HJALLAVEGUR

MELHAGI FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR ESPIMELUR Hlemmur ÓATÚN Open daily 11–17 Vesturgata 2 | D3 N ÓÐINSGATA LOKASTÍGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR HÖFÐATÚN www.thjodmenning.is www.restaurantreyk- REYKJAVEGUR National ÞÓRSGATA Bus Terminal LANGHOLTSVEGUR MIÐ GRUNDARSTÍGUR javik.is LAUGATEIGUR Gallery Taxi T The Einar Jónsson VITASTÍGUR ÚN HÓLSVEGUR EFSTASUND SKOTHÚSVEGUR of Iceland Museum Reykjavík 871+/-2 NJÁLSGATA Laugardalur NESHAGI URUMELUR F BARÓNSSTÍGUR Eiriksgata | G6 Aðalstræti 17 | E3 HÁTÚN BERGÞÓRUGATA Tue–Sun 14–17 Open daily 10–17 SNORRABRAUT SIGTÚN BIRKIMELUR Hallgríms www.skulptur.is

National ÝRARBRAUT BALDURSGATA kirkja Reykjavík Art Gallery library Church LAUGAVEGUR Gallerí ÁgústHÁTÚN Skúlagata 30 | E7 DYNGJUVEGUR KVISTHAGI West SÓLEYJARGATA BRAUTARHOLT Baldursgata 12 | G5 Tuesday through Sunday

FREYJUGATA Wed–Sat 12–17 14–18 BRAGAGATA The Einar KRINGLUM Side NJARÐARGATA www.galleriagust.is Reykjavík Art Mu- National Jónsson RÁRSTÍGUR Gallerí Fold seum museum Museum Sundhöllin FJÖLNISVEGUR SKIPHOLT Rauðarástígur 14-16 composed of ENGJAVEGUR Swimming RAUÐA | G8 Hafnarhús SUNNUVEGUR ENGJATEIGUR FORNHAGI BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI Pool Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat Tryggvagata 17 | D3 EGILSGATA EIRÍKSGATABARÓNSSTÍGUR 11–16 / Sun 14–16 Open 10-17 ÆGISÍÐA HJARÐARHAGI HRINGBRAUTHljómskáli S Zoo and KIPHOLTwww.myndlist.is Thursday 10 - 20 G University Park NÓATÚN HALLARMÚLI Kaolin Kjarvalsstaðir family park of Iceland LAUF DUNHAGI Skólavörðustígur 22 | E5 Flókagata 24 Laugardalshöll SKIPASUND ÁSVEGUR www.kaolingallery.com Open 10 - 17 Sports hall SÆMUNDARGATA HÁTEIGSVEGUR Gallerí Kling & Bang Ásmundarsafn SNORRABRAUT Hverfisgata 42 | E6 Sigtún HOLTAVEGUR EFSTASUND

GUNNARSBRAUT Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Open 10 - 17 LANGHOLTSVEGUR TÓMASARHAGI STURLUAGATA Nordic House R this.is/klingogbang/ More info on LÁGMÚLI ÁRMÚLI FLÓKAGATA Culture Center VATNSMÝRARVEGUR Ásgrimur Jónsson www.listasafnreykja- Now offering Shopping 11 Spúútnik 12 Rauðhetta og úlfurinn vikur.is ENGJAVEGUR FÁLKAGATA Museum catering service! GAMLA HRINGBRAUT Laugavegur 28B Skólavörðustígur 8 Bergstaðastræti 74 Reykjavík City Library 10 Red Cross Shop Kjarvalsstaðir Mon-Fri through Sept. 1 Tryggvagata 15 | D3 Taxi RAUÐARÁRSTÍGU BSÍ Vintage fashion is definitelyNational the "in" thing Rauðhetta og úlfurinn are an enduring Gerðuberg Cultural Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu Museum 10–19, Fri 11–19, Sat and SUÐURLANDSBRAUT ARAGATA Coach Laugavegur 12B in Iceland and if retro and vintage clothing favourite when it comes to supplying the Centre NJARÐARGATA Sun 13–17 ODDAGATA Terminal is your thing, then you have to have a good good peopleÚTHLÍÐ of Reykjavík with their trendy Gerðuberg 3-5 Our favourite place to find bargains. They’ve www.sim.is/Index/Islen- snoop through some amazing second-hand haircuts—which is odd because trends keep Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed EGGERTSGATA got a nice selection of Icelandic sweaters, STAKKAHLÍÐ 11–21 / Thu–Fri 11–17 / ska/Artotek bargains. In particularKlambratún if you're looking changing and fashion is notoriously fickle. ÁRMÚLI LYNGHAGI and sell all types of clothes for both men Park Sat–Sun 13–16 Reykjavík Maritime for an Icelandic sweater but don't want to “I can alwaysBÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ count on excellent service at and women. Pretty nice if you’re low on LANGAHLÍÐ www.gerduberg.is Museum spend a fortune then this may be your place Rauðhetta og úlfurinn, they make me look SÍÐUMÚLI cash, especially considering the outrageous MIKLABRAUT Hitt Húsið Grandagarður 8 | B2 HÁALEITISBRAUT HRINGBRAUT KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT STARHAGI as there are plenty in all sizes and colour good every time,” one reader noted. www.maritimemuseum. prices you can pay elsewhere in this darn Gallery Tukt ÁLFHEIMAR patterns. is city. SKAFTAHLÍÐ Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E4 www.hitthusid.is ReykjavíkÁLFTAMÝRI Museum of GOÐHEIMAR

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR i8 Gallery Photography Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík tel: 552 4444 The National and University Library, Tryggvagata 16 | D3 SAFAMÝRI Public phones Public Toilets Tryggvagata 16 | D3 SÓLHEIMAR ESKIHLÍÐ Weekdays 12–19 / SKÓGARHLÍÐ Arngrímsgata 3 BARMAHLÍÐ Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat There aren’t manyBÚSTAÐAVEGUR public payphones in the Public toilets in the centre can be found Sat–Sun 13–17 - www. Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2 13–17 and by appoint- city centre. The tourist information centre inside the green poster covered tow- ljosmyndasafnreykja- REYKJAHLÍÐ ment. www.i8.is Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2 MIKLABRAUT at Aðalstræti 2, City Hall, Kolaportið, MÁVAHLÍÐ ers located, for example, at Hlemmur, vikur.is Living Art Museum entrance at Landsbankinn and in Lækjar- Reykjavík Backpackers, Laugavegur 28 Ingólfstortorg, by Hallgrímskirkja, by Sigurjón Ólafsson STIGAHLÍÐ Skúlagata 28 | E7 LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA gata. Prepaid international phone cards Swimming Pools Reykjavík Art Museum, Lækjargata and by Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Museum are recommended for int’l callers. DRÁPUHLÍÐ Eymundsson on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets Thu 13–22. www.nylo.is Laugarnestangi 70 There are several swimming pools in GNOÐARVOGUR Reykjavík can also be found inside the Reykjavík www.lso.is Internet Access Reykjavík. The one in 101 Reykjavík, Hafnarborg SÍM Domestic City Hall and the Reykjavík Library. Strandgata 34, Haf- SKEIFAN Most cafés offer free wireless internet Sundhöll Reykjavíkur,BLÖNDUHLÍÐ is an indoor one, STAKKAHLÍÐ GRÆNAHLÍÐ Airport Taxi narfjörður Hafnarstræti 16 | D4 access. Computers with internet connec- located at Barónsstígur. That pool features Mon-Fri 10-16 www.hafnarborg.is tions are available to use at: a nice sunbathing area and some outdoor MIKLABRAUT Mokka Kaffi Skörin Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 hot tubs. Opening hours: Monday to Aðalstræti 10 FELLSMÚLI FLUGVALLARVEGUR Thursday from 06:30–22:00, Friday from Skólavörðustígur 3A GRENSÁSVEGUR Ground Zero, Frakkastígur 8, near | E5 Spark Design Space 06:30–20:00, Saturday from 08:00–16:00, www.mokka.is Klapparstígur 33 | E5 Laugavegur 45 HAMRAHLÍÐ Kringlan and Sunday from 10:00–18:00. www.sparkdesignspace. The Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 The National GalleryShopping F of Iceland Mall com HÖRGSHLÍÐ EINARSNES

HÁAHLÍÐ

BÚSTAÐAVEGUR

IGAHLÍÐ

BAUGANES Hótel Loftleiðir

SKILDINGANES Perlan LISTABRAUT

OFANLEITI

E Öskjuhlíð KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT MENNTAVEGUR

VESTURHLÍÐ

SUÐURHLÍÐ

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR

University of Reykjavík

Nauthólsvík Best Of Reykjavík Every year around the beginning of July, we make a BEST OF REYKJAVÍK ISSUE celebrating some of what makes Reykjavík-life worthwhile, posting some good entries into a hopefully neverending discussion. The primary purpose of BEST OF REYKJAVÍK is celebration! It’s about big-upping stuff, giving mad props to it and patting it on the shoulder. The following are some nice tips we culled from BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2012, which you can find in full at www.grapevine.is

BEST SEAFOOD: BEST PLACE TO WATCH BEST PLACE TO STOCK UP FÍSKIFÉLAGIÐ SPORTS OVER BEER: ON LOCAL DESIGN: KRAUM ÚRILLA GORILLAN Hvíta Perlan won this category the last two years in a row. Hvíta Perlan is now closed, but Úrilla Górillan has opened in its place and in many ways it’s just like Hvíta Perlan so it’s not surprising that it takes best place to watch sports over a beer this year. It’s a restaurant and sports bar with constant stream- ing of live sports. People who like to watch sports over a beer tell us that it’s simply the best. “They have a huge screen, and they have lots of them, and it’s really comfortable, and you get a Representing over 200 local designers We think Fiskifélagið, or The Fish Com- seat with your very own personal tap at and artists, Kraum offers an expertly pany, is serving the best seafood these your table, so you don’t have to get up curated, collection of the best things days. “They are consistently good,” our to order!” someone who doesn’t even currently being envisioned and crafted food critic argued. “The food is excep- watch sports excitedly told us. tionally good, the dimly lit basement by locals. The wide variety of items on is cosy and romantic, and the service offer (“their collection is GARGAN- is excellent.” We recommend the prix TUAN”) can be hard to navigate, but fixe menu, though be aware that you the expert staff ensures no one leaves will probably have trouble walking out without finding what they need. of the restaurant. It’s a lot of food. And really good food. Really, this could have easily made “Best fancy meal” or “Best goddamn restaurant.”

Located at Vesturgata 2a Located at Austurstræti 12 Located at Aðalstræti 10

Hótel Plaza Bar A GUIDE Every day from 17:00 to 19:00, Beer for 500 IS Kaldibar Funky, fresh THAT FUCKS Every day from 17:00 - 20:00 2 beer or 2 glasses of wine for 900 ISK. 2 for 1 on all drinks. and full of ﬂavour! YOU UP Kaffi Zimsen Sun - Thurs from 17:00 to 22:00, 2 for 1 beer for 800 ISK. A list of every Kolabrautin Fresh local seafood Happy Hour in Every day from 17:00 to 19:00, Beer for 500 ISK, wine for 700 ISK. 101 Reykjavík Lebowski Bar Every day from 16:00 to 19:00, 2 for 1 beer for 900 ISK and wine for 1000 101 Hótel ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00, Beer for 450 ISK and wine for 645 ISK. Micro Bar Every day except Sat from 16:00 to 19:00, Austur 500 ISK for a draft beer. Every day from 20:00 to 00:00. Beer 495 ISK and wine 550 ISK. Miðgarður Bistro bar B5 Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Every day from 16:00 to 22:00, 50 percent off all drinks. Beer 550 ISK, cider 750 ISK, wine 550 ISK No-Name Bar Every day from 17:00 - 19:00. Bjarni Fel Beer and wine for 500 ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00, 2 for 1 beer for 890 ISK. Obladi Oblada Boston Every day from 12:00 to 20:00 Every day from 16:00 to 22:00, Beer 600 ISK Beer 500 ISK and wine 500 ISK. Download the FREE Prikið Café Haiti Grapevine Appy Weekdays from 16:00 to 20:00, Everyday from 16:00 to 22:00. 2 for 1 beer for 690 ISK. Beer for 500 ISK and wine for 650 ISK Hour app! Reykjavík Backpackers Celtic Cross Every happy hour in Every day from 17:00 - 20:00. Every day from 17:00 to 20:00, 2 for 1 beer for 750 ISK Beer for 500 ISK. town in your pocket. Roadhouse Den Danske Kro Friday & Saturday 22:00 - 23:00. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00, Available in the App 2 for 1 beer for 790 ISK and wine for 790 2 for 1 beer for 900 ISK and wine for 900 ISK. ISK. Dillon store and on the Slippbarinn Every day from 16:00 to 20:00, Android Market. Every day from 16:00 to 18:00, 2 for 1 beer for 850 ISK. 50% off beer and wine. Dolly Stofan Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Hemmi og Valdi Every day from 17:00 to 20:00, Beer for 500 ISK and wine 500 ISK. Every day from 12:00 to 20:00 Beer for 500 ISK and wine for 600 ISK. Dubliner Tapashouse Draft beer for 550 ISK and wine for 700 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00, Hilton Hotel Bar Everyday from 16:00 to 19:00. 2 for 1 beer for 1000 ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00, Beer for 950 ISK and wine for 1150 ISK. Faktorý Beer for 500 ISK and wine for 650 ISK. Uno Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Hótel 1919 Everyday from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer for 550 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00, 50% off all drinks. Fálkinn Bistro 2 for 1 beer for 1000 ISK , wine for 1190 ISK. Uppsalir - Bar & Café Everyday except Sunday from 17:00 to 22:00. RUB23 | Aðalstræti 2 | 101 Reykjavík Hótel Holt Gallery Bar Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer for 500 ISK and wine for 500 ISK Phone: +354 553 5323 | [email protected] Every day from 16:00 to 19:00, 2 for 1 beer for 900 ISK. Harlem beer for 475 ISK, wine for 695 ISK, Þingholtsbar Every day from 17:00 to 22:00. RUB23 | Kaupvangsstræti 6 | 600 Akureyri champagne and cocktails half off. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer for 550 ISK, wine for 700 ISK. Phone: +354 462 2223 | [email protected] Beer for 500 ISK

ART ONGOING

– continued –

Guðjón Tryggvason The installation includes text pieces, sound and kinetic works that form a narrative in to the formation of a friendship. Runs until February 10 and is open on Thursdays to Sundays from 14-18 Knitting Iceland Come and knit at Laugavegur 25, 3rd floor, every Thursday, 14:00 - 18:00. On permanent view Latin Dance Studio, Faxafen 12 Guided Practica Argentine tango, Sundays from 17:30-19:30. Register by phone 821 6929 or email tangoadventure@ gmail.com, 500 ISK for students, 800 Zoom In On Zoom Out ISK for others. Six- week courses are Zoom Out Salon Exhibition also available. On permanent view Museum of Design – Reykjavík Art Museum (Kjarvalsstaðir) Hönnunarsafn Íslands February 2 -April 28 | 1.000 ISK Gísli B. - Five Decades of Graphic Design A wide section of the museum’s vast collection of art is available This survey of Gísli B. Björnsson’s career features, among other for viewing in this new exhibition that sees many works of art things, work from his student days, being on display for the first time in many years. The concept of magazines, book cover design and the exhibition is an ever-rotating platform of artwork. Indeed the layout. Runs until March exhibition will be rotated during opening hours, making your visit Nordic House a unique one from that of someone who may be visiting on an- Tehuanas other day. The collection, consisting of Icelandic and international Photographic exhibition by Arturo Betancourt picturing characteristic pieces, gives a cross-spectrum perspective of the pieces held women in colourful folcloric dresses. by the museum, which offer a fascinating insight in to the works Accompanied by a showing of four housed at the gallery. JL Mexican films. Runs until February 17 Borderlines Exhibition by 12 photographers living in four different countries. The Find all art listings theme is “Borders”. Runs until February 17 online The National Museum The Making of a Nation - listings.grapevine.is Heritage and History in Iceland This exhibition is intended to

provide insight into the history of the • 456 5552 Icelandic nation from the Settlement Spiral Hill Iceland's maritime history and the This exhibition focuses on his only growth of the Reykjavík Harbour. [email protected] to the present day. www.theviking.is On permanent view Earthwork in Europe, Broken Circle/ On permanent view The Icelandic Phallological Spiral Hill, created in Emmen, The Coast Guard Vessel Óðinn Museum Holland in 1971. This vessel sailed through all three The museum contains a collection Runs until April 14 Cod Wars and also served as a of more than two hundred and Reykjavík Art Museum- rescue ship to over 200 ships. fifteen penises and penile parts Kjavalsstaðir On permanent view belonging to almost all the land and Kjarval - Key Works Focus on the Sea sea mammals that can be found in Reykjavík Art Museum draws on Focus holds regular photographic Iceland. its extensive collection of works exhibitions, this time the theme On permanent view by Jóhannes S. Kjarval for ongoing is the sea. Focus was founded in Reykjavík Art Museum - exhibitions at Kjarvalsstaðir. The 1999 and membership is open to all Ásmundarsafn current exhibition offers a unique amateur photographers. The main The Fire Within and powerful retrospective from aim of the association is to provide a A collection of sculptures by Iceland’s most beloved painter. platform for its members to pursue Ásmundur Sveinsson housed in his Permanent exhibition photography, hold competitions and former home. Reykjavík City Museum give talks about the topic. Runs until April 14, 2013 Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 On temporary view Reykjavík Art Museum- The Settlement Exhibition The wood carvings of Lúkas Hafnarhús Archaeological findings from ruins Kárason Erró - Graphic Art, 1949-2009 of one of the first houses in Iceland Lúkas Kárason uses driftwood from For the first time the general public and other excavations in the city his childhood home, Strandir, in all are able to view Erró´s graphic art centre, open daily 10:00-17:00, 1.100 his carvings. He manages to extract spanning half a century. ISK per adult, 650 ISK per person in magnificent creatures from his Runs until August 25, 2013 groups (10+) and free for children 18 material. Lúkas was born in 1931 and under. and grew up in Strandir, North-West Kópavogur Spill - Ívar Valgarðsson Art Museum- Spill comprises three murals of drips On permanent view Iceland. of paint which have trickled onto the Reykjavík Maritime Museum On temporary view Gerðarsafn floor. Ívar focuses a digital camera From Poverty to Abundance Reykjavík Museum of Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur on the paint drops and projects the Photos documenting Icelandic Photography Tel. +354 570 0440 images on to the walls in real time. fishermen at the turn of the 20th Guðmundur Ingólfsson Kvosin - Open 11–17 1986 & 2011. Runs until April 14 century. Closed on Mondays On permanent view Runs until May 12 Robert Smithson: The Invention www.gerdarsafn.is of Landscape - Broken Circle/ The History of Sailing Helgi Þorgils Friðjónsson Tone In Ripple

Hönnunarsafn Íslands Museum of Design and Applied Art Garðatorg 1, Garðabær Tel. +354 512 1525 Open 12–17 Closed on Mondays Hafnarborg www.honnunarsafn.is The Hafnarfjordur GÍSLI B Centre of Culture FIVE DECADES OF and Fine Art GRAPHIC DESIGN Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður Tel. +354 585 5790 Open 12–17 Thursdays 12–21 Closed on Tuesdays www.hafnarborg.is To th MADE IN ICELAND www.jswatch.com Björk Viggósdóttir e B lue Gravity, circular movement Lagoon With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker ensures that we take our waterproofing rather seriously. Ingólfur Arnarsson Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Drawings inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. F D For your mind, body and soul by Ragnar Egilsson

Cougar Town

I did not go into Gló with an open mind. Gló is a health food cafeteria with a focus on vegetarian, raw food and vegan options and those aren’t my kind of option. I’m the kind of guy who likes to rely on intermediaries to negotiate the transfer of vegetables from the field and to my mouth—delicious, savoury, marbled, intermediaries. I guess you could call me a vegetarian-by-proxy.

there, two of them being physically of jerky. This was then topped with Gló restrained by their girlfriends and one cashew cheese (don’t ask me), ruccola that was wearing a flowing skirt and and garlic. This may sound nightmar- Engjateigur 17-19 a wide-brimmed green hat (I kid you ish to many of you, but let me assure (@Listhúsið Laugardal) not). you that this was entirely edible—not Tel: (+354) 553 1111 I must say, though, that a single man as good as the chicken, but far better www.glo.is would do a lot better here than at than I would ever have expected. He [email protected] Kaffibarinn at three in the morning. enjoyed this with a sparkling ginger Mon-Fri: 11:00 – 9pm You would be gliding from: “A messy drink and a beer but at this point we Sat: 11am – 5pm divorce, huh?” to afterglow granola would both have been ready to give What we think bars in the time it takes to cook a raw the green mystery juice a try had they In the words of my dining partner: food salad. not run out of it. “This was fuck good.” Ok. So we’ve established my For dessert, I had the raw cheese- feeble, chauvinist mind and firm cake topped with a tiny organic stance (and loose bowel movements) raspberry. At 699 ISK, I thought it was Flavour: against dietary fibre. Here’s where it quite steep for such a thin slice, but I Raw food, Mediterranean, gets a little hairy…the food is freaking still have to admit that it was just as Japanese, vegetarian, vegan awesome. I want to fight it with every bafflingly fantastic as the rest of the Ambiance: fibre of my being (of which, we have meal. Oestrogen-suffused cafeteria established, there is very little) but I Friendy friend had the Service: have to admit that Gló is serving some “hjónabandssæla,” which is an Icelan- Pick up and pay at the counter. very, very tasty food indeed. dic take on a rhubarb crumble. Tiny, Helpful staff. I had the pesto chicken with tabou- with a tiny raspberry, and awesome Price for 2 (with drinks): leh and kelp noodles. Chicken came (the rule with food seems to be “the 4-5,000 ISK as a full portion and a half portion. I tinier, the better.” At least that’s been chose the half portion (1890 ISK) and my experience with oysters, lobsters, it left me comfortably full despite not apples and blueberries). having eaten the whole day. Despite If we were able to find this much the raw food policy they decided to like, with all our preconceived no- to serve the chicken thighs cooked tions, then there should be something My views on antioxidants are such (where’s the courage of conviction!?). for everyone here. These are easily that I actually did a little happy The pesto was thinner and nuttier among the best vegetarian dishes I’ve dance when I read the results of a than I’m used to, but really pleasant. had in Iceland and certainly the best recent study in Scientific American The kelp noodles were these of the “health food” offerings I’ve The best Italian/Icelandic that seriously questioned the role of opalescent strands that resembled tried. antioxidants in prolonging life (“Is the sauerkraut and had been tossed restaurant in town! Free-Radical Theory of Aging Dead?”) with courgette and lemongrass. The and my views on the raw food philoso- “tabouleh” was mostly made up of phy are best summed up by googling barley and parsley. Both were far 10% "Pyradyne vitamid.” more delicious than they had any Discount So we go in there, two lead-spined, right to be. I washed this down with a of Food taut-buttocked, glistening young beer and a sparkling rhubarb drink. bucks that start each day with a My rugged longshoreman of a zombie’s share of raw hippie entrails friend had the raw food pizza, kelp and wash it down with unicorn blood noodles and mixed roasted veggies and are greeted by a room full of (1790 ISK). This world of raw food blissful-looking women and beakers is alien territory to me. I’m a decent

FRUM of green mystery juice. There is a yoga home cook but I’m fumbling in the centre next door. They were playing dark trying to guess how they make easy listening. Everyone was smiling. these things. From what I could Everyone was smiling at us. And there gather, the “pizza crust" is made from RAGNAR EGILSSON were literally three other males in sundried tomatoes and crushed seeds that have been dehydrated into a kind ALÍSA KALYANOVA

Lækjargata 6B • 101 Reykjavík Tel. 578 7200 • www.pisa.is The Bruce Wayne Of Basement Bistros

The coffee house 10 Dropar is leading a double life. By day it is a mild-mannered, coffee house, but by night it turns into a louche French bistro of clandestine rendezvous and impromptu Bande à Part dance numbers (probably).

And it doesn’t get much cuter than the not a bad deal. Le Chateaux des Dix café Tíu Dropar. It’s easily one of the We started with Cuvée Bouchard Gouttes cosiest and most family-friendly places Aine Rouge, a mild and inoffensively in Reykjavík and a great spot for waffles fruity bistro wine, which was the weekly Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes and hot cocoa. special when we visited in December. Laugavegur 27, 101 Reykjavík Le Chateau des Dix Gouttes has Then later we turned to baser conver- Tel: +354 892 3574 the same cosy atmosphere but the em- sation fuel and started swilling some https://www.facebook.com/ phasis is on charcuterie, cheese, light cheap Montes Cabernet. I must also LeChateauxDesDixGouttes courses and wine (but of course!). mention that they offered us a glass Mon- Sun: 20:00– 01:00 They have two types of platters. of some truly fantastic glögg (mulled What we think The small one with a small portion of wine) although that was just for the A modest selection of light bistro saucisson and one type of cheese (500 holiday season. dishes and wine ISK) and a larger one with four types It’s a pretty modest selection of of cheese, olives and a larger portion of food but it’s a good place to hang out on saucisson (2000 ISK). We ordered the a Thursday night if you’re in the mood Flavour: larger one and although it doesn’t quite for something a little less hectic. Rustic French have the Slippbarinn platter beat it’s And it’s an interesting concept to Ambiance: still a perfectly nice plate of salty things divide the business into two different Cosy, romantic, quiet to go with your wine. The goat cheese shifts like this. I would love to see a Service: and blue goat cheese were killer, the more extreme metamorphosis; maybe Fast and domestic olives were tasty, but the prosciutto was a place with secret levers that rotate the Price for 2 (with drinks): bland and boring. walls theatrically and reveal a whole 5-6,000 ISK They also offer sandwiches (rang- new design. Or maybe have contrasting ing from 1190 to 1490 ISK), served on uses for the space—a pet shop by day thick slices of actual real bread—not and an abattoir by night? A kindergar- the greasy sauce-and-cheese massacres ten by day—an opium den by night we’re used to in Iceland, but definitely (I’ve seen them during nap time and it’s juicy enough. not such a stretch). The soup is a clear lamb soup in a In Iceland, the expression “tíu dropar” very French style—light and cooked just is a cute way of saying that you’d like a right. I’d definitely recommend it. And, RAGNAR EGILSSON small cup if someone offers you coffee. at 1390 ISK plus coffee and bread, it’s ALÍSA KALYANOVA

Ó ÐINSTORG 101 REYKJAVÍK ÍSLAND SNAPSBISTRO.IS [email protected] +354 5116677

7–10 febrUARY 2013

reykjavík winter lights festival 123646 • SÍA • PIPAR\TBWA International Childrens day Museum night Pool night Love Games Other events vetrarhatid.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2013

Íslenski Barinn, by Austurvöllur Grandagarður 2, 101 Reykjavík 20:00 Magnúsdóttir. Thursday, February 7 (Saltfélagshúsinu) She, she, them & that – Artist Hlaðan, Gufunesvegur 20:30 – 21:00 Group 13:00 – 17:00 Tarmo Song and dance with a hint of circus. 19:30-20:00 Talented Finnish musician Tarmo plays an HITT HÚSIÐ, UPPLÝSINGAMIÐSTÖÐ Water Opening Ceremony East meets West, electro and folk mix. Association of Polish photographers in Mayor Jón Gnarr officially opens the Café Haíti Geirsgata 7b 13:00 – 17:00 Iceland "Pozytywni” exhibits black and Reykjavík Winter Festival and unveils MYSTERIUM white photographs. the opening piece, "PIXEL CLOUD" by 20:30 – 21:30 Come, experience and interpret the strong Hlaðan, Gufunesvegur architect Marcos Zotes, which transforms Eyes in the dark colourful paintings of artist Hulda Hlín Austurvöllur into a magnificent display of 14:00 – 14:30 & 15:00 – 15:30 Jóhanna Þórhalls’ Jazz quintet plays and Magnúsdóttir. lights, colour and motion, to the music of Óttar Guðmundsson shares ghost stories. Hlaðan, Gufunesvegi. Winter Light Eddi Egilsson. Restaurant Reykjavík, Vesturgata 2 Acrobat and dancer Katla Þórarinsdóttir Austurvöllur 13:00 – 17:00 performs her magic in white silk. 21:00 – 24:00 Hlaðan, Gufunesvegur 19:30 – 20:30 Water In a Dark Room – Sleep Concert Association of Polish photographers in Helm of Disguise 10:00 – 15:00 At the end of the day, it is good to lie down Iceland "Pozytywni” exhibits black and French artist combines the organic and the in the dark and empty your mind. white photographs. Get out of the Dark inorganic in Icelandic nature. Exhibition of political posters and music Reykjavík City Hall. Hlaðan, Gufunesvegi. Tryggvagata 8, 2. Floor Saturday, February 9 from exotic countries. 16:00 – 17:00 Reykjavík Art Museum, Tryggvagata 20:30 – 23:30 20:30 – 21:30/22:00 Advent 17 In Blood 12:00 – 16:00 The Return of Darkness One-person show about farm hand that Reykjavík Literary City and Rúnatýr offer a Helm of Disguise – Exhibition Guitarist Jón Þór Sigurleifsson plays goes looking for sheep in the fall. 15:00 – 16:10 chilling programme focused on Vampires original songs on an acoustic guitar, as opening Rococo Hour and other creatures of the dark. Photo Hlaðan, Gufunesvegi. well as new arrangement of heavy metal French artist combines the organic and the A visit to the Rococo era of the 18th exhibition by Heldriver and a screening of songs for an acoustic guitar. inorganic in Icelandic nature. 14:00 – 14:45 century with dancer Unnur Guðjónsdóttir. the film Nosferatu at 22:00 Stofan, Aðalstræti 7 Alliance française, Tryggvagata 8, Robert the Roommate Historical review and Chinese tea. Cinema Paradise, Hverfisgata 54 second floor Personal arrangements of classic rock Unnur’s China Club, Njálsgata 33. 20:00 – 00:30 songs. A Night of Salsa 14:00 – 16:00 13:00 – 20:00 Hlaðan, Gufunesvegi. A free lesson for beginners from 20:00. Reykjavík Aikido and Jiu Jitsu Photography Exhibition From 21-22, experienced Salsa dancers Club 13:00 – 20:00 Photography Students exhibit their work. will dance with less experienced dancers Self-defence in Reykjavík. Light training Photography Exhibition Grandagarður 2 (Saltfélagshúsinu) Thorvaldsen by Austurvöllur for beginners and skills exhibitions. Photography Students exhibit their work. 14:00 - 18:00 Aikido - Jiu Jitsu Dojo, Ármúla 19 Grandagarður 2 (Saltfélagshúsinu) Friday, February 8 Borderline Exhibition 14:00 – 16:00 12:00 - 18:00 Works by Icelandic and international Busking in the City Varied Art artists. 16:00 – 20:00 National radio station Rás 2 presents Artists Sigrún Erna Sigurðardóttir and The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5 A Visit to Bessastaðir six musicians "Busking" together. Birna María Stiff show varied and different A guided tour of the Presidential residence Includes Snorri Helgason, Svavar Knútur, forms of art. and the church of Bessastaðir. Jón Jónsson, Heiða Eiríksdóttir, Dóri HITT HÚSIÐ, GALLERI TUKT The Love Games, Bessastaðir Fjallabróðir and one special guest. Café Haiti, Tapashúsið, Kolaportið 15:00 - 17:00 Sunday, 20:15 – 20:45 14:00 – 18:00 & 19:00 – 23:00 Conference on Video Art, February 10 Hringanóri Duet Helm of Disguise 14:00 – 15:00 A panel of respected international Original songs and arrangements of old French artist combines the organic and the Speed Dance curators. folk songs for song, guitar and cello. inorganic in Icelandic nature. Are you interested in break dance, The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5 Dómkirkjan, Lækjargata 14a Alliance française, Tryggvagata 8, Bollywood or Lindy Hop? Short dance second floor seminars will be available in different 17:00 - 22:00 20:30 – 21:20 locations in mall Kringlan. Borderline Exhibition By Reykjavík Pond – Icelandic 17:00 – 17:20, 17:30 – 17:50, 18:00 – 18:20 Kringlan Works by Icelandic and international classics Witching stories artists. Soprano Gerður Bolladóttir and guitarist Stories of witches in the children’s section 14:45 – 15:30 The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5 Rúnar Þórisson play a selection of classic of the library. Hip-hop Icelandic songs. Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15:00 – 15:45 free lesson for under 13 y/o. 14:00 - 15:30 Fríkirkjan Church, Fríkirkjuvegi 15 15:45 – 16:30 free lesson for over 14 y/o. English Music 17:00 – 18:00 Brynja Péturs’ Dance School, ÍR Club Themed student concert. The Winter Festival Closing 20:15 – 21:00 18:00 & 23:40 House, Skógarseli 12 The New Music School, Grensásvegi 3 Ceremony Thursday Foreplay: Hide Your Photography exhibition The Care Games are the work of artist Selected photos. 16:00 – 17:30 18:00 Kids Bergljót Arnalds. The aim is to create Say Hello to the Old Masters Live Rock and Roll. Free CDs Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 Break dance empathy, joy and love. Singers, dancers Hotel Holt has one of the most unique HITT HÚSIÐ, Entry from Austurstræti 15:00 – 15:45 free lesson for under 13 y/o. and circus acts, combined with actors 17:00 – 22:30 private art collections in Iceland. Snorri, 15:45- 16:30 free lesson for over 14 y/o. and storytellers. The marching band Flashlight in the Dark the hotel manager, will lead guests through Brynja Péturs’ Dance School, Ball Svanurinn will lead the Care Games The museum’s 2nd floor will dark from the halls of the hotel, and talk about the Room at Selásbraut 98 Parade around the Pond, followed by a 17.00. Guests will receive a flash light to story behind the paintings. performance by the Vocal Project. Hot find their way. 15:00 – 17:00 Hótel Holt, Bergstaðastræti 37 chocolate for all. Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 Children’s Dance Austurvöllur Fun music, disco ball and lights colours and Sunday, February 10 15:00 – 19:00 shadows. Dance teachers will be present Experiments in Snow to lead children in dance and games. Adventurous times in Mt. Bláfjöll where Dance Studio, Skúlagata 30 14:30 - 15:00 & 16:00 – 16:30 Ongoing every day participants learn to make a snow house Dark stories in the Story Car and explore the Eldborg crater. Bring your 14:00 – 18:00 The Witch Nína tells scary stories in the 21:00 – 22:00 own shovel, light and lunch. Stories from the Flea Market dark. 18:00 – 19:00 / 20:00 – 21:00 Famina Futura - Live Departure (in private cars) from Mörkin 6 Actress Kristín G. Magnús, recounts Reykjavík City Library, Ingólfstorg Dark Forrest/ Öskjuhlíð Folk/Country explosion. stories from the flea market. Architect Massimo Santanicchia in Hressingarskálinn, Austurstræti 20 10:00 – 10:30, 13:00 – 13:30, 14:00 – 14:30 The Flea Market, Baldursgata 37 15:00 – 16:30 cooperation with Osram offers an Dark stories in the Story Car Make a Bun’s Day Wand adventurous walk in Öskjuhlíð (start by 22:00 – 22:40 The Witch Nína tells scary stories in the 14:00 – 18:00 Try your hand at making a wand for bun’s Nauthóll, finish by Perlan) watching the Una Stefáns dark. Artist of the Year day. interplay on lights and shadows. Bring a Iceland’s answer to Adele. Reykjavík City Library, Ingólfstorg The Icelandic Printmakers Association’s Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 flashlight. Hressingarskálinn, Austurstræti 20 Artist of the year 2013, Elva Hreiðarsdóttir Nauthólsvegur 106 19:00 – 22:00 exhibits. 14:00 – 18:00 20:30 – 22:00 Sense of Touch Artist of the Year Take me to the world The Icelandic Printmaking International Experimental Video In a small dark room, guest can try their The Icelandic Printmakers Association’s Soprano Hallveig Rúnarsdóttir and pianist Association, Tryggvagata 17 festival 700IS Reindeerland sense of touch with different shapes and Artist of the year 2013, Elva Hreiðarsdóttir Hrönn Þráinsdóttir explore the world of Reindeerland screens experimental videos. textures. Also, exhibition of paintings by 17:00 – 18:00 exhibits. musicals and cabarets. The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, Soffía Sæmundsdóttir. Darkness in talk and tones The Icelandic Printmaking Iðnó, Vonarstræti 3 Kirsuberjatréð, Vesturgata 4 Úlfhildur Dagsdóttir and Finnish musicians Association, Tryggvagata 17 Nordicomics Islands – Exhibition from the Winter Alliance Matti Kallio, Lassi 20:15 – 21:00 13:00 – 20:00 Nordic comics’ exhibition. Special focus on Logrén and Matti Latinen join forces for 13:00 - 17:00 Gímaldin and friends authors from Iceland, Greenland and the Exhibition of Photographs by music and poetry. MYSTERIUM A text-based rock group playing the Åland Islands. Students Hannesarholt, Grundarstígur 10 Come, experience and interpret the strong Icelandic blues. Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 Photography students display their works. colourful paintings of artist Hulda Hlín

14:20-15:00 13:00 – 17:00 15:50 – 16:10 Reykjavík City Hall Sunny Side Road Learn to Lie and Cheat at Card Games International Dances Live performance by Sunny Side Road. The most important aspect of many card games is the Members of Glóð exhibit international dances, line cheat. Experts teach the trick. dance, circle dances and Zorba. Saturday, February 9 15:30 - 16:30 Salsa dancers from Salsa Iceland Sunday, February 10 Dancers from Salsa Iceland show their moves and 13:00 – 17:00 13:00 – 13:10 invite guest to dance along. Learn to Lie and Cheat at Card Games Street dance 13:00 – 13:30 The most important aspect of many card games is the Hip-hop, Break and Popping with young dancers. Balkan folk dances cheat. Experts teach the trick. 16:30 – 17:00 Hungarian folk songs and folk dances. Experts will Ballet teach the basics. 13:30 - 14:00 Members of JSB Dance Studio perform two pieces, The Zumba Divas winter by Sandra Ómarsdóttir and You Are Welcome 14:00 -15:30 Display of Country, Celtic, Salsa, Cumbia, and by Katrín Ingvadóttir. Kjuregej and Friends Bollywood dances Russian artist Kjuregej (Alexandra Argunova ) with friends Charles Ross, Halldór Warén and guests. Music from Yakutia, as well as Russian and Icelandic songs. Issue 2 — 2013 The Reykjavík Grapevine

11:00 – 18:00 22:00 – 22:30 photographs post-1980 Troubadour Svavar Knútur plays a few Waves at 19:00. Photography exhibtion Singing Stars Projected images from the City’s sports songs. 22:00 – 22:30 Photographs of the works of Timo Jokela A singing group known to spread joy. history. who works with natural material such as Seltjarnarnes Municipal Library Improvisation by Ballet Students from the Icelandic Academy of snow, wood and ice. Reykjavík City Library Garðabær Municipal Library Eiðistorgi, 170 Seltjarnarnes Reykjavík City Hall Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavík Garðatorgi 7, 210 Garðabær, the Arts 19:30 – 24:00 Students from the ballet program from the 18:00 – 22:00 20:30 – 22:30 19:30 Exhibition opening Icelandic Academy of the Arts perform an Green Light 2 Poetry Slam! Theatrical Improvisation Modern design of lamps, overhead lights improvised dance piece inspired by the Artist Birgir Sigurðsson displays his work Young people from 15–25 y/o battle in Theatrical students from the Garðabær and lighting. exhibition Music in Waves. to the compositions of Oddur Garðarsson. poetry slam secondary school entertain. Reykjavík Sculptures Association í 20:00 – 22:00 Gljúfrasteinn – The Laxness Museum Reykjavík, Nýlendugata 15 21:30 21:45 Family Workshop 271 Mosfellsbær Poetry Slam Live music Participants work on projects relating to Open during opening hours German artist Christian Ritter is a guest Troubadour Svavar Knútur plays a few creativity and light. 21:00 – 22:00 Nordicomics Islands – Exhibition at this year’s poetry Slam, he will perform songs. Live Music: Snorri Helgason and Nordic comics exhibition. Special focus on during intermission. Silla authors from Iceland, Greenland and the Garðabær Municipal Library – Álftanes Folk-pop mash up courtesy of musicians Åland Islands. Álftanesskóla, 212 Garðabæ Sigurlaug Gísladóttir (múm & Mr.Silla) and Snorri. 19:30 Museum Night Song Group Girls from Álftanes elementary school sing few songs. Friday, February 8 - 19:00 -24:00 20:30 Look out for the Museum bus. The Culture of Álftanes then and 20:00 – 20:30 & 22:00 – 22:30 now Talk Alliance Française Lecture by historian Anna Ólafsdóttir Introduction to lighting Tryggvagata 8, 101 Reykjavík Björnsson. 20:45 – 21:00 19:00 – 23:00 Hafnarfjörður Municipal Library Brother John Helm of Disguise – Exhibition Teenage Choir from Valhúsaskóli Strandgata 1, 220 Hafnarfjörður opening elementary school performs. The Icelandic Printmaking Association French artist combines the organic and the 19:00 – 24:00 21:15 – 21:45 Tryggvagata 17, hafnarmegin, 101 Reykjavík inorganic in Icelandic nature. Dúkkulísurnar The Salsa Mafia The all-girls 80s’ band Dúkkulísurnar 19:00 – 24:00 The Salsa Mafia has just returned from Árbæjarsafn Museum exhibit items from their industrious career. Lettermess 2013 - Letterpress Cuba, ready to show you the latest salsa Kistuhyl 4, 110 Reykjavík Installation moves. 19:00 – 24:00 Guest press their letters and create the 23:00 20:00 – 20:40 The Lava in the Dark installation "Lettermess." Poetry Group from Gjábakki Something the Place Suggested Exhibition of artifacts and things made Hafnarfjörður Museum, Pakkhúsið The poetry group performs and discusses Installation by the dance company Raven. from lava and their interplay with light. Vesturgata 6, 220 Hafnarfjörður Hafnarborg, - Hafnarfjörður Icelandic poetry. 19:00 – 24:00 19:00 – 24:00. Strandgata 34, 220 Hafnarfjörður 21:00 – 21:40 Three Exhibitions in One House Majestic Darkness 19:00 – 24:00 Outdoors Yoga Exhibition by children from the Hvammur Short guided tours of Pakkhúsið and the Björk Viggósdóttir – Gravity Yoga instructor Ragnheiður Ýr Kindergarten. permanent exhibition “The Way it Was,” Installation by Björk Viggósdóttir. Guest Grétarsdóttir introduces outdoors yoga by the themed exhibition “In the Spirit of become a part of the artwork, changing Elliðarárdalur 19:00 – 20:30 Catholicism” and an exhibition of old toys. Fortune Telling the environment and altering the space. 22:00 – 22:40 Fortune teller Sigríður Klingenberg draws 19:00 – 24:00. 20:00 – 20:30 Hringanóri Duet your cards. Light Walk – Matrix Gravity – Guided Tour Original songs and arrangements of old Installation by students from the Guided tour of the exhibition Gravity by folk songs for song, guitar and cello. 19:30 – 20:30 Hafnarfjörður Technical College. Renn wenn du kannst Björk Viggósdóttir. 23.00 – 23.40 Film screening by The Goethe Institute. 20:00 – 21:00. 19:00 – 24:00 Guided tour in the dusk Granny’s Tales Ingólfur Arnarsson – Drawings Guided walk through Árbæjarsafn 20:30 – 21:00 Stories from the past Pristine delicacy is a characteristic of Museum, infused with horror and ghost Reykjavík Technical College both Ingólfur Arnarson’s paintings and stories. Choir 19:00 – 24:00. drawings. This exhibition consists of 40 40-voices men’s choir performs. Exhibition: Merchants and Their drawings showing different shades of gray. Reykjavík Art Museum – Ásmundarsafn Things 20:30 – 22:00 Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík Exhibition of items related to merchants “Drei” and merchandise in the old warehouse 20:00 – 22:00 Film screening by The Goethe Institute 19:00 – 24:00 Beggubúð, built in 1906. Guided tour of the Museum Creating Stars: Kaleidoscope 22.00 – 23.00 19:00 – 24:00. Archives workshop Reykjavík Municipal Archives Cease Tone An opportunity to look behind the scenes. . The desire for space is a curious feeling. The House of Bjarni Sívertssen Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavík Musician Hafsteinn Þráinsson plays a few The oldest house in Hafnarfjörður, The 20:30 – 21:00 songs Sívertsens’ House, built in 1803–05 open 21:00 – 22:00 19:00 – 24:00 Artist Talk - Ingólfur Arnarsson – Guided Tour: The Fire Within for visitors. Documentation of the City’s Kópavogur Municipal Library Drawings Guided tour of the works of sculpturer sports history 21:00 – 22:00 Ingólfur Arnarsson talks with guests about Ásmundur Sveinsson. Hamraborg 6a, 200 Kópavogur Exhibition of documents, photographs and Magic and Mysticism his exhibition. items related to the city’s sports history. Fortune teller Sigríður Klingenberg 19:30 – 20:00 & 20:30 - 21:00 21:00 – 21:30 provides a mystic atmosphere. 21:45 – 23:00 Unique Einar Artist Talk - Björk Viggósdóttir – Magician entertains children. Reykjavík sports history in Gerðarsafn - Kópavogur Art Museum Gravity photographs pre-1980 Björk Viggósdóttir talks with guests about 20:00 – 22:00 Kópavogur Art Museum, 200 Kópavogur Projected images from the City’s sports Fortune Teller her exhibition. history. Fortune teller Sirrý looks into your future. 19:00 – 23:00 Music in Waves - For Children Reykjavík Art Museum - Hafnarhús 22:00 – 22:45 21:30 – 22:00 Jón Þór Sigurleifsson, solo guitar Guided tour for children of the exhibition Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík Dream Interpretations Music in Waves. Premiere of minimalistic solo piece for Kristján Frímannsson interprets dreams for 19:30 – 20:15 8-string guitar. guests. 19:00 – 20:00 A Superhero Mission Music in Waves Tour of the museum for children. 23:00 – 23:45 23:00 – 23:30 Reykjavík sports history in Artist Helgi Þorgils Friðjónsson, gives Live Music a guided tour of his exhibition Music in

Swimming Pool Night – Saturday, children and young people in the 19:00 – 19:40 February 9 From 20:00 – 24:00 neighbourhood. Water Yoga Vesturbæjarlaug Swimming Pool, 20:30-20:40 Yoga exercises in water, and Hofsvallagata: Breiðholtslaug Swimming Pool, Dance Group Swaggerific Laugardalslaug Swimming Pool meditation in the hot tubs. Austurbergi 3 Award winning dance group Swaggerific demonstrates a few moves 15:00 – 16:00 20:00 – 24:00 Laugardalur: Guided Tour 19:40 – 20:00 Aurora Borealis - Pool party 19:00 – 24:00 21:00 – 21:45 Historian Stefán Pálsson leads a Gongs and water Artist Kitty Von-Sometime prepares Student Exhibition Aqua Zumba guided tour of the area, and recounts Float in the water and relax to the the mood for guests with DJs and Clothes and textile by design by Zumba combined with swimming the history of Laugardalur. beat of the Gong. glow sticks. students from Fjölbrautskólinn í pool aerobics. A healthy workout. Breiðholti College exhibited. Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach 18:00 – 18:30 22:30 – 22:55 A Moment of Choirs Water Yoga A few choirs join hands and sing 18:00 - 24:00 Yoga exercises in water, and together by the pool. Cozy Hot Tub meditation in the hot tubs. Torchlight, stars and the Aurora 20:00 - 22:00 Borealis on the beach. Women’s Chess Competition 22:55 – 23:15 Chess in the pool. All women are Gongs and water eligible. 19.00-19.30 Float in the water and relax to the The quartet Kvika sings. beat of the Gong. 19:45 – 21:15 19:30-20:15 KR Super Challenge. 23.00-23.30 White Signal 23:15 – 23:45 Music, swimming and magnificent The quartet Kvika sings. Disco from the 70s and the 80s. Short Films lights equals great fun. Short films documenting the life of The Reykjavík Grapevine

21:00 – 22:00 Finnish environmental artist Timo Jokela Museum Sigurðsson, who grew up in poverty in Guided tours exhibits works in cooperation with the Solve the clue, find the treasure. the isolated West fjords of Iceland, to Guided Tours of the current exhibitions. Icelandic Academy of the Arts, made from become the leader of the movement for natural materials, snow, wood and ice. 19:00 – 24:00 an independent Icelandic state in the 19th Kópavogur Municipal Archives Botanical Garden, Laugardal, 104 Reykjavík Art Exhibition Century. Exhibition by hobby painters. Digranesvegi 7, 200 Kópavogur 19:00 – 21:00 The Living Art Museum Experience and Senses 19:00 – 24:00 The Saga Museum Skúlagata 28, 101 Reykjavík Guest take part in an experience that will Kópavogur’s Sports History Öskjuhlíð, 105 Reykjavík require all senses. An interplay of light and Exhibition of documents relating to 19:00 – 24:00 shadows, sound and environment Kópavogur’s sports history. Kl. 19:00 - 24:00 Judgement is the Mirror Botanical Garden, Laugardal, 104 Reykjavík Viking Warriors Exhibition of works by artists Tiong Ang, Museum of Design and Applied Arts Vikings from the Viking club Rimmugýgur Roger Palmer, Jan Kaila, Japo Knuutila, ASÍ Art Museum Molinn Youth Centre visit the museum in full armor. Clodagh Emoe and Mick Wilson, curated Garðatorgi 1, 210 Garðabæ Freyjugata 41, 101 Reykjavík Hábraut 2, 200 Kópavogur by Henk Slager. 20:00 – 24:00 The Icelandic Music History Museum 19:00 – 24:00 20:00 - 24:00 Exhibition Opening: Glit Exhibition Bjarki Bragason Uss! Hábraut 2, 200 Kópavogur Exhibition covering the early years of Exhibition opening. Photographers Sonja Paintings by Bjarki Bragason. 19:00 – 24:00 pottery makers Glit. Nikulásdóttir and Ólöf Sigþórsdóttir ...dance later 20:00 – 20:45 & 21:30 – 22:15 photograph modern problems. 20:30 – 22:30 Artist Talk Bjarki Bragason A program featuring Icelandic dance music Pottery from old folk dances to the 20th century. Images, language, and time influence Natural History Museum of Kópavogur Try your hand at pottery paintings by Bjarki Bragason. Hamraborg 6a, 200 Kópavogur 20:30 – 21:00 Reykjavík Art Museum - Kjarvalsstaðir Accordion Music 20:30 - 21:00 The Reykjavík Accordion Society plays a Flókagata 24, 105 Reykjavík Funny Creatures! little classical dance music. Artist Helgi Þorgils Friðjónsson talks about 19:30 – 20:30 his strange and funny statues on exhibit. Exploration for kids The National University Library Guided tour of the exhibition Flow, where Arngrímsgata 3, 107 Reykjavík The Nordic House art will be explored from different angles. Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavík 20:00 - 22.00 21:00 – 21:30 & 22:00 – 22:30 The Lady of the Mountain and the 19:00 – 24:00 Reykjavík Kitchen Flow – Behind the Scenes Photography exhibition Exhibition and a mini-conference on food- Guided tour focusing on the research Exhibition from Mexico and an international and restaurant culture in Reykjavík during behind the exhibition. short film festival the early 20th century. Einar Jónsson Museum 21:30 – 22:00 The Ásgrímur Jónsson Museum Eiríksgata, 101 Reykjavík The Culture House National Museum of Iceland A Strawberry Waits in the Field Bergstaðarstræti 74, 101 Reykjavík Hverfisgata 15, 101 Reykjavík Live series by musicians Tinna 20:30 & 21:30 Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík Þorsteinsdóttir and Guðmundur Steinn 21:30 – 21:50 Concert 19:00 - 23:00 19:00 – 21:00 Gunnarsson in cooperation the Reykjavík Soprano Anna Jónsdóttir and harpist Heroes of the Past Writing on skin Art Workshop for Children Art Museum. Sophie Schonjans perform works by Henry Guided tour of the exhibition. Guest can try their hand at dermography. Workshop for children based around the Purcell celestial bodies and time. The Farmhouse Krókur SÍM, The Assoiation of Visual Artists National Gallery of Iceland Garðavegur & Garðaholtsvegur crossing, Hafnarstræti 16, 101 Reykjavík 19:00 – 19:30 210 Garðabæ Fríkirkjuvegur 7, 101 Reykjavík The Reykjavík Boys Choir 19:00 - 22:00 The Reykjavík Boys Choir sings a few 19:00 – 24:00 20:00 – 24:00 Gray tone Ásdís Spanó songs. Open House Old Treasures and Foreign Light influences the gray tones for artist Krókur is a small, rebuild traditional old Influences Ásdís Spanó, who exhibits 500 shades of 20:00 – 22:00 corrugated iron house with a grass roof, A selection of foreign paintings from the gray. Agnes originally built in 1923. gallery’s catalogue and a selection of Icelandic feature film about the events that works by Icelandic painters from the early lead to the last execution in Iceland. The Settlement Exhibition 20th century. 22:00 – 23:00 Aðalstræti 16, 101 Reykjavík The Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum 20:00 - 21:00 Murder! 19:00 – 23:00 Light in the Dark I A murder has been committed in the Laugarnestangi 70, 105 Reykjavík Einherjar, the Vikings of Students from the music department of the National Museum. Come and chase down Reykjavík 19.00 – 24.00 Iceland Academy of the Arts create music the clues. Who is guilty? magic. Modern day Vikings, armed to the teeth, Milestones, Key works by 23:00 – 23:30 roam the exhibition floor. Sigurjón Ólafsson 20:30 - 21:00 Árstíðir Live The exhibition encompasses a period 21:00 – 23:00 Folk Songs in the Dark The band Árstíðir plays for guests in the of a little over fifty years in the middle of Temporary Museum of Small Icelandic folk songs, and original pieces museum. the 20th century, providing insight into arranged for voice and cello. Things the various periods of the art of sculptor National Archives of Iceland Do you have collection? Stamps? Cards? Sigurjón Ólafsson 21:00 - 23:00 Laugavegi 162, 105 Reykjavík Pins? Bring your collection and take part Light in the Dark II in the Temporary Museum of Small Things. Kl. 20.00 – 22.30. Víkin Reykjavík Maritime Museum Students of composition at the music 19:30 – 22:30 Árni Heiðar Karlsson, Pianist department of the Icelandic Academy 20:00 – 21:00 Grandagarði 8, 101 Reykjavík Introduction the National Pianist Árni Heiðar plays the Grand Piano. of the Arts perform chamber music and Dear Skúli Archives 19:00 – 23:00 modern compositions. Special guests discuss 18th century Reykjavík Museum of Photography Introductory tour of the National Archives. The Magnificent Darkness national hero Skúli Magnússon. 19:00 – 24:00 Tours start at 19:30, 20:30 and 22:30. Only Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavík The Icelandic Astronomy Society educates Thousand years 15 spots per tour. Registration at www. 20:00 – 23:00 guests about astronomy and the stars in archives.is. 21:00 – 22:00 Exhibition from the National Gallery of Icelandic Blacksmiths the skies. Exhibition Kvosin 1986 & 2011 Iceland. Works from Icelandic artist from Blacksmiths ply their trade outside the 21:15 – 21:45 Exhibition of photos from the book Kvosin, the end of the 19th century. museum. The story of the Sólborg Case a photography book on Reykjavík. 21:00 – 22:00 19:00 – 24:00 from 1893 Iceland Academy of the Arts Program Folk Art The Sólborg Case is a well-known Icelandic The Ruins of Hofsstaðir Akranes Church Choir reenacts famous The Golden Plover The Icelandic national bird, The Golden court case. Historic review and photos. Kirkjulundi, 210 Garðabæ folk tales with photographs and paintings. 19:00 – 19:40 Plover, inspires the works of quadriplegic A Visit in the Dark 19:00 – 24:00 19:00 – 22:00 painter Edda Heiðrún Backman, who uses A guided tour of the Reykjavík Zoo & Family The Ruins of Hofsstaðir The Pirate Workshop her mouth to create oil and water color Park, Hafrafelli v/Engjaveg, 104 Reykjavík Ruins of an old house from the Settlement Workshop for children. Create your own paintings. Pirate ship. 18:00 – 21:00 age in the 9th century. Interactive 19:00 – 24:00 exhibition. Environmental Art in the 19:00 – 22:00 Jón Sigurðsson in his Youth Botanical Garden Treasure Hunt aboard the Pirate Exhibition on the national hero Jón

International Children’s Day 2013 Gerðuberg Culture Centre and Miðberg Leisure Centre

Art and craft workshops wizards and witches Create your own terrifying wizard or witch and Darkness claws The World Children‘s Day concludes when Saturday, February 11, 13:00 - 16:00 Origami Workshop Science Shop all participants gather in the square to Entrance free – all welcome! Origami Iceland teaches a few simple ways Do you want to experiment with chemistry? show their creations. to fold paper for a something. Step into our lab. All the different animals A dog or a cat or a mouse or a bird? What Instrument Factory Witch‘s Café Don’t miss International Children’s Day in animal would you want to be? The Witch‘s Make your own instrument and create Do you dare to drink the green potion? Not Gerðuberg! daughters will transform you into any your own sound. all are brave enough to dine at the Witch‘s animal you choose, using face paint. Café. Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Hip-hop REY Gerðubergi 3-5 Flying high Dancers from Swaggerific dance group Cook over Fire 111 Reykjavík Do you want to fly with the witches and teach the basic steps in street dancing. Make bread on an open fire. Tel. 575 7700 the magicians towards the dark and the www.gerduberg.is mysterious? Learn go make costumes for Wizards and Witches Closing Ceremony – Festival of Light