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Possessing Eden: Victoria's Ghosts by Christina Esther Nilsen

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Possessing Eden: Victoria's Ghosts by Christina Esther Nilsen Possessing Eden: Victoria's Ghosts by Christina Esther Nilsen B.A., University of Victoria, 1996 A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of MASTER OF ARTS In the Department of History O Christina Esther Nilsen, 2005 University of Victoria All rights reserved. This thesis may not be reproduced in whole or in part, by photocopy or other means, without the permission of the author. Supervisor: Dr. Annalee Lepp (Department of History) In recent years, the city of Victoria, British Columbia has developed a reputation as an extraordinarily haunted place. An impressive array of local ghost tales, spooky legends and haunted landmarks have, since the city was established as a Hudson's Bay Company Fort in 1843, accumulated in local histories, pioneer reminiscences and newspaper stories, in compilations of supernatural lore and in historical fiction. Exploring points of intersection between the politics of past and place encrypted in literary renderings of ghosts and hauntings, and the construction of regional identity, "Possessing Eden" ties local hauntings to the role of the past - and popular understandings of it - in both Victoria's popular image and identity as a "little bit of Old England," and its shadowy alter-ego, as an unruly frontier port city. TABLE OF CONTENTS .. Abstract ...............................................................................................................................ii ... Table of Contents ............................................................................................................... iii Acknowledgments.............................................................................................................. iv Introduction ......................................................................................................................... 1 Chapter I: Victorian Hauntings, 1862- 1905 ..................................................................... 2 1 Chapter 11: Heritage and Haunting, Ghostly Capital, 1958-2002 ..................................... 52 Chapter 111: Possessing Eden: "Indian Ghosts" and the Super-Natural........................... 82 Chapter IV: Ghostly Possessions in Recent Literature: Conclusions, Continuations................................................................................. 11 7 . Bibliography .................................................................................................................... 130 iv ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Although innumerable individuals contributed in varying ways to the production of this thesis, a few debts of gratitude deserve special mention. First, thank you to my supervisor Dr. Annalee Lepp, for her encouragement as I stumbled through the early stages of writing, for her patience as my ideas metamorphosed, and for unparalleled attention to detail in several close readings of my work. Thank you also to my graduate advisor Dr. Elizabeth Vibert, who encouraged me to pursue what seemed to some, an unusual topic. To Dr. Peter Baskerville, for the material sustenance, intellectual enrichment, and general stability of steady employment. To Kevin Cryderman, for his infinite interest in all things ghostly, and for many lively, imaginative and ultimately, productive dialogues on topics both directly and indirectly related to my research. To local "ghostorian" John Adams, who could, and might, write volumes about Victoria's ghosts. To my parents Anne and Kjell and my siblings David and Ida (who have, during the past three years, learned more about local history and hauntings than I'm sure they ever cared to know) for diversions, humour, encouragement, and inspiration. Thank you to the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada, and to the University of Victoria Faculty of Graduate Studies, as well as the Department of History for financial support. Also at the University of Victoria in the Department of History, thank you to support staff Karen McIvor, Eileen Zapshala, Jeannie Drew and especially, Karen Hickton, for always seeming to know, without having to ask, what was needed. And finally, thank you to the staff and volunteers at the British Columbia Provincial Archives, at the municipal archives of Saanich, Victoria, and Oak Bay, and at the McPherson Library at the University of Victoria, for helping me find what I was looking for. VICTORIA, B.C.: CITY OF SPIRITS In most cities, it's easy to forget that there are two populations: one living and one dead. Not so in Victoria, British Columbia. Down at the tidy harbor on a warm August evening, there was lots of evidence of the lively side of the city. Crowds of tourists watched an acrobatic dancer while nearby a bag-piper bleated like a wounded sheep. In the harbor itself, the final heats of the weekend's dragon-boat races were playing out. Flowers bloomed in profusion from every patch of open ground. The living, breathing side of Victoria, the lovely provincial capital that occupies southern Vancouver Island, was all around me. As dusk gathered, though, so did the gloom. The Fairmont Empress Hotel - a massive brick monolith that looms over the harbor - started to look a little sinister. Across the street, I found John Adarns patiently waiting for anyone who wanted to encounter Victoria's other population, the ones whose moments in the summer sun have long since passed. Tall, bearded, and all in black from felt hat to umbrella, he was somber as a shadow. He has taken on the role as spokesman for the city's ghosts, and he's down at the harbor every night during the summer, just in case anyone wants to hear what they have to say. < I, m not sure why there are so many ghosts in Victoria, but it is the most-haunted city in British Columbia,' he said, opening another walking tour of the Old Town's spirits ... The tour went on for two hours through Victoria's remarkably well-preserved old town. Adams explained that at one time Victoria was Canada's most important West Coast port. As railways and then highways shifted the emphasis to Vancouver, Victoria became an economic backwater. Ironically, that helped preserve its neighborhoods of htoric houses and businesses. As it got darker and the crowds of tourists dissipated, it became easier to imagine the town as it was, an unruly port on the frontier. Every block had its ghosts ... The Maritime Museum is on the site of the old jail, where Sir Matthew Baillie Begbie sentenced 27 men to hang. The hangings were considered entertainment in those days, drawing hundreds of Victorians for the macabre show. Fan Tan alley, which once transected the opium dens and brothels of Chinatown, was once the site of a gruesome murder of a prostitute. She was beheaded by a spurned suitor with a fish slicer. The bodies from a steamship wreck were stacked behind a bank building (a sight that traumatized Robert Service, who was living in an apartment on the third floor at the time.) Another prostitute slashed rhe throat of her boyfnend when she found out he was two-timing her. For each of these events and resulting corpses, Adams produced anecdotes of disturbances, ghostsightings, or poltergeist-like activity nearby ... I found the town's cheery British facade much tempered knowing it rested on a foundation of lust, addiction and murderous greed. It was Cambridge meets Deadwood. Chris Welch, StarTribune, 17 July 2004 The city of Victoria - capital of British Columbia, city of gardens, and long promoted as a "bit of Old England" set amidst the magnificent scenery of the Pacific Northwest - is also known for its ghosts.' Victoria is "the most haunted city in British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest," writes local historian and ghost expert John Adarns in his 2002 compendium of local ghost-tales, legends, and historical associations, Ghosts & Legends of Bastion "Ghost stories abound in Victoria and many love to tell them," begins Danda Humphrey's 1997 Favourite Ghost Stories From the Tours of The Old Cemeteries Society of ~ictoria.~"Those interested in Canadian ghostlore will be impressed by the sheer volume of British Columbia ghost tales," observes Robert Belyk in his 1990 compilation of provincial hauntings, Ghosts: True Tales of Eerie Encounters. "In relation to population, only the Maritime region, with its long history of phantom ships, ghostly crews and the like, clearly has more ghosts than British ~olumbia."~And according to Jo-Anne Christensen, author of Ghost Stories of British Columbia (1 996), ghost stories are a part of B.C.'s social history: "[Llove it or hate it, believe it or not - it would seem that, as a society, we can't get enough of these mysteries."5 Indeed, known fiom newspaper stories, radio and television documentaries, popular literature, innumerable internet sites, and fiom the ghostly walking tours led by Adams through the city's most haunted districts, British Columbia, and Victoria in particular, is home to an impressive repertoire of ghost tales, spooky legends and haunted landmarks. Many prominent heritage sites in and around the city have at least one associated ghost, ' Kenneth Lines, "A Bit of Old England: The Selling of Tourist Victoria" (M.A. thesis, University of Victoria, 1972), 35. 2 John Adarns, Ghosts & Legends ofBastion Square (Victoria: Discover the Past, 2002), vi. Danda Humphreys, Favourite Ghost Stories From the Tours of the Old Cemeteries Society (Victoria: Old Cemeteries Society of Victoria, 1997), 4. 4 Robert Belyk, Ghosts: True Tales ofEerie Encounters (Victoria: Horsdal and Schubart, 1990), x. 5 Jo-Anne Christensen, Ghost Stories of
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