MAY, 1917. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY. $2.00 A YEAR.
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T A H E S M P A 0 L R T T A S M 0 A F N T 'S H E P A P R A A C D I I F I S C E
By Moonlight in Hawaii By •A. P. A Section from one of the Pan-Pacific Dioramas of the Owen Taylor "Seven Scenic Wonders of Hawaii" Merrick
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Vol. XIII. No. 5. HONOLULU, HAWAII. • Speedy Trains in New South Wales 1 The Mother State of the Australian Commonwealth.
The World's Famous Railway Bridge Over the Hawkesbury River, N. S. W.
All the year round New South Wales is railway bridge. Here is to be found the best place for the tourist. From Syd- glorious river scenery as well as excellent ney and New Castle, as well as from points fishing and camping grounds. By rail also in other states, there are speedy trains, with is reached the splendid trout fishing streams comfortable accommodations, at very cheap of New South Wales, stocked with fry. rates to the interesting points of the Mother yearling and two year old trout. State of the Australian Commonwealth. Beautiful waterfalls abound throughout Within a few hours by rail of the metrop- the state and all beauty spots are reached olis of Sydney are located some of the most after a few hours' comfortable trip fron- wonderful bits of scenery in the world. It Sydney. is but a half afternoon's train ride to the beautiful Blue Mountains, particularly fa- Steamship passengers arriving at Sydney mous for the exhilarating properties of at- disembark at Circular Quay. Here the mosphere. Here and in other parts of the city tramways (electric traction) converge, state are the world's most wonderful and and this is the terminus of thirty routes, beautiful limestone caverns. Those of varying from two to eleven miles in length. Jenolan are known by fame in every land. One of the best means of seeing the pic- Reached by the south coast railways are turesque views and places of interest about the surf bathing and picnicing resorts famed Sydney is to travel around them all by elec- throughout Australia and even abroad. tric tram. The cost is trifling, as the fares on Within a score of miles of Sydney is the the state railways are low. The secretary beautiful Hawkesbury river and its great of the railway system is J. S. Spurway.
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i . Our Art Section—Shades of Former Carnivals - . - - 402 • . The Malta of the Pacific—Pearl Harbor - - - 417 • By Albert Pierce Taylor. • • • • Dogs of Alaska 427 X! By W. E. Priestley. t • The Lane Cove River 433 • By David B. Hunter. • • . k The Land of Every Sport 439 W By Owen Merrick. t When Manila Celebrates 449 t By H. E. Walker. • • Tea Drinking and Flower Arrangement in Japan - - 455 . By D. T. H. McKinnon. • Found—A Perfect Climate! 459 • By L. W. de his-Norton. t . Nearing the End of the Log 466 I • By Charmian Kittredge London. America's Happy Hunting Ground 473 I• • By Fred Albright. . . • • Kauai Under the Reign of King Sugar 479 i • By Jean West Maury. E. 1 • A Night of Witchery 485 . • • By T. Paaka. • Hongkong—An Outdoor Paradise • 493 • From the Editor's Diary. • • • • Encyclopedia and Guide to Hawaii and the Pacific. is . . . • Vite i'i: 0-11arifir J'1; agazinr • • Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H • Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, I' $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. St • Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. 4 • • Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given * * I. • ii- l raifirilndIY•l1 Latiartattni.=thcTh.tnt Lattal , , ---icwi(1--”, THEN ATIVEPA- CY) LEAD THE PARADE. THE KOREANS OF HONOLULU ALWAYS CONTRIBUTETHE IRSH AREIN M AKING THE CARNIVAL A SUCCESS. APRI ZE-WINNER OF TWOY EARSAGO- HONOLULULO DGEOF E LKS. SHADESFRO MFORMER FL ORAL PARADES. THEH IBISCUS SHOWI SE ACHYE AR PERHAPSTHE MOST BEAUTIFULOF CARN I VAL FEATURES. aL 3
SOME OFTHE ADM IRED FLOATS SEENIN THE JAPANESE LANTERNP ARADE. THE CARNIVAL RACES IN HO N() U HARBOR.
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Pearl Harbor, the Malta of the Pacific An account of the greatest naval station in the World.
By ALBERT PIERCE TAYLOR Secretary-Director of the Hawaiian Promotion Committee .
HEN Balboa looked out on the to that ocean as the Isle of Malta is to vast Pacific Ocean for the first the "Mother of the Seas." It remained W time and realized the ambition for another sailor of fortune to spread of years, and visions of conquestidorial the sails above his galleon and set his occupancy of long stretches of golden course westward in the hope of discover- shores flitted across his mind, peopling ing a shore shining with gold and em- the isles of a wonderful sea with men bowered in tropical loveliness, for it was in armor and establishing the gay life Juan Gaetano who found, so tradition of feudal lords, little did he dream that tells us, the lava-bound' shores of Hawaii in a far future day a group of islands, island. History does not tell us that lying, far beyond the horizon, would be Gaetano landed with men in armor and
417 418 THE MID-PACIFIC
The embryo gun and gunner. arquebuses and established the first an Islands a military outpost to safeguard foreign military camp in Hawaii, but in the entire Pacific coast against hostile all probability he did. fleets. Of such importance was the Again, in 1778, Captain James Cook, opening of this channel that the Navy of the Royal British Navy, dropped his Department sent war vessels to partici- anchor off the beautiful bay of Keala- pate in the demonstration and sent the kekua and once more men of a foreign Cruiser California up the channel to nation landed with guns and established safe anchorage opposite the present naval an armed camp. One hundred and forty yard. The cruiser was skilfully guided years later will see established on the up the four and a half mile channel, shores of Pearl Harbor, within easy can- thereby demonstrating that for all fu- non distance of Honolulu, the greatest ture time that any warship of the Ameri- naval and military camp ever attempted can Navy may easily negotiate the water- by the great American Republic, for in way. It was a historical event for June, 1918, the drydock of Pearl Har- Honolulu. On the quarter-deck of the bor Naval Station will be completed and California were many distinguished per- the great yard formally opened as a base sonages, including Her Majesty, Queen for the handling of warship fleets of the Liliuokalani, the former soverign of the United States and their defense by the Hawaiian Islands, Hon. Sanford B. nearby fortifications which already com- Dole, president of the first and only Re- mand the admiration of militarists. public of Hawaii, the Governor of Ha- In 1911 the channel which connects the waii, and the military and naval com- open sea with the inner lochs of Pearl manders in Hawaii. Harbor was formally opened, and was Although the Panama Canal was celebrated as one of the most important thousands of miles distant from San advances of the United States in its plan Francisco, that city celebrated the com- for preparedness in making the Hawaii- pletion of the great American waterway . THE MID PACIFIC 419
The great clam-shell. by holding an exposition which com- States in time of war—that between the manded the admiration of the entire United States and Spain—as a special world, and which was one of the world's mark of honor to this Mid-Pacific armed modern wonders. sentinel. The completion of Pearl Harbor Hawaii at that time expects to enter- Naval Station in 1918 will mark tain a vast number of people from abroad, the greatest military and naval believing that the opening of the $20,- progress of the American nation, 000,000 naval station will celebrate a and already plans are being for- feat of engineering which in reality had mulated for a celebration of that event its inception more than three-quarters to include a vast demonstration of pre- of a century ago. paredness by American war vessels and A document was recently found in a other craft ; a parade of the military camphorwood chest stored in the Ar- forces in Honolulu, which may then chives Building of the Territory of Ha- number 20,000 men ; and the Hawaiians waii in Honolulu which was written hope that, barring other urgent national aboard the famous old wooden frigate business, the President of the United Constitution — the "Old Ironsides" of States, cabinet officers and distinguished prose and poetry—by Lieut. I. W. Cur- officials from the mainland will be pres- tis, U. S. N., addressed to Hon. G. P. ent on that occasion to mingle with the Judd, Minister of Foreign Affairs of the officials of the Territory of Hawaii and Hawaiian Kingdom, in which the naval municipalities of the Islands. officer unfolded a plan to fortify Pearl Greater interest is manifested by the Harbor, as well as Honolulu. He dwelt loyal residents of the Hawaiian Islands upon the importance of Martel towers, in the hope that the Navy Department Paixhan guns .of the caliber of ten-inch meanwhile will name one of the new war- shells and sixty-pound shot. "Allow me ships the "Hawaii," in honor of the Isl- to call your attention to the importance ands which were annexed to the United of Pearl Harbor," wrote the officer, "the 420 THE MID-PACIFIC
Beginning a fort—the site of a mortar battery. perfect security of the harbor, the ex- Oahu alone, exclusive of the naval and cellence of its water, the perfect ease marine force which is to be maintained. with which it can be made one of the The announcement of the decision of finest places in the Islands, all of which President Roosevelt to increase activity combine to make it a great consideration. at Pearl Harbor was commented on by While the harbor was clearing out, for- every influential newspaper in the United, tifications could be built, troops could be States, and all were favorable to the pro- drilled, the forts might be garrisoned, ject, but many fell into error in stating government storehouses built. The that Pearl Harbor came under the domi- amount of money to be expended will be nation of the American government with but a feather in comparison with the annexation in 1898. That was not true, almost incalcuable amount of wealth that for in 1876, under President Grant, Pearl will result upon the completion of these Harbor was ceded to the United States. objects." President Cleveland renewed the treaty Not a single line of that report has in 1887 for seven years. Since the re- been disregarded by the later-day naval newal of the treaty Pearl Harbor has officials. Every word has shown that been the subject of many detailed reports Lieutenant Curtis had a grasp of the sit- by engineer officials and high officials of uation which would seem tinged with the navy. The determination of Congress prophecy. While the channel has been to appropriate millions for the establish- clearing, fortifications have been built by ment of a naval base there was not sud- the army on a reservation adjoining the den or due to immediate necessity for naval reservation, fortifications which defense, but to a carefully drawn plan mount twelve-inch guns, while another which was decades in the making. The has been constructed for large caliber value of the harbor has never been de- mortars of the most powerful and mod- nied, and it is now about to become ern type ; troops are drilled all over the what the prophetic pen of a British naval Island of Oahu in four, separate army •officer announced over a hundred years posts, and the garrisons are gradually ago would be, "The great naval base of being increased until twenty thousand the Pacific Ocean." men may be stationed on the Island of In 1918, Hawaii will invite the world THE MID PACIFIC 421
dredger at work. to come to Honolulu just as did San Fran- from Honolulu, arising above a once cisco invite the world to visit that won- desolate, lantana-covered stretch of coral derful city just within the Golden Gate and lava surface, bordering upon the in 1915. Hawaii in summer time has a wonderful Pearl lochs. Within a cable's charm which even surpasses Hawaii in length of the moorings of the battleships winter time, fat-then flowering trees are will be the gates of one of the finest dry- all abloom, the tourists "On the Beach docks in the world, whose capacity— at Waikiki" indulge in daily surfing just not as great as it should be, will be far as they do in December and January ; the in excess of the bulk of the greatest super- sea for thousands of miles, with Hawaii dreadnaught for years to come, for the as the Cross-roads of the Pacific, are size of the Panama Canal and lochs will more peaceful then than at other sea- have a bearing upon the size of future sons ; while the hospitality of the peo- warships and compel nations to keep ple regards neither season nor tempera- down to a certain length. The American ture, for it is always hospitality from the people little realize what has been done at heart. Pearl Harbor, and little will they realize the importance of the harbor until Ameri- Little did the national lawmakers can warships are placed on guard against dream when they passed the joint reso- a hostile fleet, and then its inestimable lution of Congress in July, 1898, annex- value will be gien a practical demonstra- ing the Hawaiian Islands to the United tion, for out of that harbor in the mid- States, that by that aict they laid the dle of the Pacific, the very cross-roads basis of the future base at Pearl Harbor, of the vast breadth of the sea on which a station which will be regarded by border the nations of the two Americas, those powers which concede that the Ha- Asia and the great continents of the waiian Islands are the "Key to the Pa- South Seas, may issue a fleet absolute cific," and Pearl Harbor the very center in its power and equipment to intercept of armed protection to the Pacific Coast armed squadrons whose aim is the long of the American Republic. But there is and poorly protected Pacific slope, a har- the navy yard in reality not eight miles bor to which our own maimed warships -r77 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 423
• • • 424 THE MID-PACIFIC
U. S. S. "St. Louis," guarding Hawaiian waters. may retire for repairs, equipment, rein- the diminutive gunboat Petrel was able forcements and supplies. to steam into Pearl Harbor in January, The millions and millions of people 1903, and anchor safely on the broad living under the American flag may not bosom of the inner harbor, battleships comprehend the value of the millions of and cruisers may navigate after New dollars being expended in and near Year's Day, 1918,and anchor in the deep- those lochs, for the Navy Department est of deep water opposite the 820-foot has been carrying on its work silently, drydock. This vast work under the wa- but surely, working beneath the waters ter gives no approximate idea of how of the channel and lochs, to deepen where the millions have been spent or how the necessary, to fill in where navigation de- hundreds of American citizens have manded, to widen and straighten the labored incessantly. channel and reduce the shallowness of Pearl Harbor will be a magnificent the bar at the sea entrance, working with rendezvous in the Mid-Pacific for the the mechanical arms of the dredging ma- American navy, and the wisdom of its chines which have dug out and crushed creation, in the light of events making the the flint-like coral formation for three Pacific Ocean the one in which world years, night and day, until where only powers are competing for commercial THE MID-PACIFIC 425 and military mastery, becomes clearer part of the American coast too danger- and clearer the more one studies the sit- ous to be attempted. uation. Hawaii is so situated in the Pa- Hawaii has been referred to as the cific that it is the natural center for con- "Gibraltar of the Pacific," but it is in verging trans-oceanic lines, whether reality the "Malta of the Pacific." The from the Panama ship canal, or Ameri- Hawaii of the old monarchy days has can, Australian, or Asiatic ports border- passed. The picturesque royal country ing on the Pacific. By the creation of a which attracted diplomats, writers, ar- great naval force in this ocean, the tists, and distinguished personages from every clime, has succumbed to the law American mainland will practically com- of destiny, and has been replaced by a mand the Pacific against any Asiatic or practical American government, but the other power. Pearl Harbor will be a pro- beautiful, romantic moonlit nights still tection worth billions in national values. remain, and the strum and tinkle of the It will add to the equipment of the United guitar and ukulele are still heard be- States for the enterprises of peace as well neath the swaying palms as the Hawaii- as the necessties of war. The establish- ans sob out their ear-haunting melodies ment of a powerful fleet at the Hawaiian of the Paradise of the Pacific—a land Islands makes an oversea, attack on any of contentment and peace.
Divers at work. 426 THE MID-PACIFIC Ready for the trail.
Dogs of Alaska
By W. E. PRIESTLEY.
OST people are acquainted with Alaska and northern countries than in any the fact that dogs are used in other part of the world, because they M Alaska, although it must not be seem peculiarly adapted to the climatic supposed that the countries of ice and conditions and distinctive environment. snow have a monoply on the dog as a They will always be associated wth Arc- beast of burden. In some parts of Eur- tic and sub-Arctic conditions, because in ope dogs are still used for pulling small the first place the dog is bred in the wagons, and previous to the war the country, and is therefore acclimated ; he "marchande laitiere" was a familiar fig- can live on the products of the country, ure in most of the Belgian towns with such as fish and meat ; being a light ani- her dogs and milk wagons, and most peo- mal and treading lightly, he can travel ple have seen illustrations showing the with ease over the snow, where a horse work of the Red Cross dogs on the bat- would helplessly flounder. tlefields of Northern France.. Dogs in Alaska are of all breeds and Dogs, however, are more in use in sizes, the most common being the "mal-
427 428 THE MID-PACIFIC
A halt for lunch.
amute" or native dog. The word mal- elty in Alaska. In that country a dog is amute is an Indian word also applied to valuable in exact proportion to the the Eskimo race. The malamute is of amount he can pull. A sleigh dog will the wolf strain, in fact, the best of the weigh anything from thirty to one hun- breed are half wolf. They evince all the dred and fifty pounds, the average being characteristics of the wolf, both in ap- seventy-five pounds. It is surprising to pearance and in manners. Owing to his the uninitiated how big a load a dog can wolf-like fur he can easily stand the pull. It is impossible to lay down any Alaskan cold. He is a born fighter, an hard and fast rules, it all depends of inveterate thief, and somewhat of a cow- course on the size and quality of the ard, for he will seldom fight alone, dog, and the condition of the trail. On against a lone adversary. The mala- glare or smooth ice for instance, a dog mute while he is able to withstand the can pull several hundred pounds, owing cold, does not seem to have the same to the lack of friction. On the other order of intelligence as displayed by the hand, if' the dogs were compelled to wal- outside dog, and the best dog for Alaska low through deep snow, then they might would seem to be a mixture of the two have considerable difficulty in pulling an strains. Another native breed in the empty sled. I think, however, it is a North is the "huskie," but this breed is conservative statement that under ordi- rarer than common usage of the word nary circumstances, a dog can pull his would imply. The real huskies are bred own weight. It should be added, how- in the neighborhood of the Mackenzie ever, that the driver of a dog team must River, and are more common in the ter- always be prepared to be the best dog ritory under the jurisdiction of the Hud- in the team. In driving a team, the son Bay Company than in Alaska. driver must always start the sled in addi- Small dogs such as terriers are a nov- tion to giving the word of command. THE MID-PACIFIC 429
Should the sled at any time get stuck in these rings. The rest of the team is a snow drift, or water hole, it is up to hitched up in the same manner in single the driver to act the part of the strong- file. This method is not all that might est dog, and get the team on the move be desired, as it is possble for a dog to again. jog along and make a bluff at working, Dogs are not driven by means of reins so long as he keeps his trace tight, it or lead lines, but simply by word of is almost impossible to detect the fraud. mouth. To go ahead the command is The Coast method is the one generally "Mush" or "Mush on," evidently a Hud- employed in the Nome district, and in son Bay Company word corrupted from my opinion is by far the best method of the French "marchez." To go to the the three. A long tow line of rope or right the command is "Gee," and to the rawhide is the principal feature, one end left "Haw." These commands are being attached to the sled, and the other given to the leading dog, who is natu- end attached to the harness of the leader. rally called the leader, and if he is well The remainder of the dogs are fastened trained, he will obey the command with in pairs to this line, the line of course a precision that is really remarkable. In separating each couple, or in other words; driving a good many teams, it is neces- if there were seven dogs in the team, one sary to shout as loud as possible in order dog would be in the lead, and three dogs to get them to start, but the command to would be on each side of the tow line. stop need only be delivered in a whisper. A short line is fastened from the collar There is evidently a good deal of the of each dog to the tow line, in order to human about a dog. keep them in place. This method of There are three different methods of harnessing allows each dog to work in harnessing dogs to a sled. These sleds dependent, and with a certain amount are known as the Labrador, the Interior of freedom, and at the same time gives or Single File, and the Coast or Double an opportunity to watch the team more Harness method. The Labrador method closely and detect shirkers. The only consists in each dog being hitched direc- objection to this method is the amount tly to the sled, by his own line. Lines of of gear that the dogs must carry, but course vary in length, in order to pre- apart from this, it is the best way of vent the dogs crowding each other. hitching dogs to a sled, either for racing There is no attempt in the Labrador or freighting. style to keep the dogs in place, and the The harness employed is very similar result looks much the same as a bunch to that of a horse, but of course on a of dogs would do if they were chasing miniature scale. There is also a har- a cat. This style is only suitable on ice ness generally known as the Siwash har- or a very broad trail. ness, as it is in common use among the The Interior or Single File method is Indians. This harness does away with the one generally employed in the Upper the leather collar and snaps, and con- Yukon and Fairbanks country, and is sists of a thong which passes round the suitable for a narrow trail. Generally neck to which are attached three short the biggest dog of the team is hitched to thongs, one stretching along the back, and the others passing under the chest, the sled by means of a whiffle tree. On and joining the back strap close to the each side of his harness just 'at the back tail. This is a splendid emergency har- of the collar, there is a ring, and the 'ness,.and can be made in a few minutes traces of the next dog are hooked into from rope, rawhide or webbing. It is 430 THE MID-PACIFIC also a good harness to use on a dog if thoroughly understand Alaska until he he has sore shoulders. has given the "gee-pole" a long test, and done his share with the dogs. Toboggans The sleds in use are of two varieties. are never used in Alaska. The Yukon sled, whle it is not a thing of beauty, is built to stand all kinds of Dogs in Alaska when on the trail are hard work, or as the Irishman said, "will fed once a day, after the day's work is last forever, and after that can be used done. Dogs are never fed in the morn- for firewood." The sled is about eight ing, for if they were they would be lazy feet in length, is made of any kind of all day, or what is more probable, would hardwood, lies close to the ground, costs vomit up their breakfast soon after they from ten to fourteen dollars, and makes got on the trail. Dogs to work well must a trail sixteen inches in width. The other be well fed, and it is false economy to pattern is known as the Basket Sled, and underfeed a dog. They are fed on a va- is to the Yukon sled what a three-masted riety of food, including rice, tallow, ba- schooner is to a collier. In length it is con, corn meal, and fish. If rice or corn from eight to fifteen feet, is made of meal forms a part of their food, it must birch, oak, or hickory, cuts a trail of be cooked. Some men prefer to feed twenty-two inches in width, and costs their dogs on straight bacon or fish, thus from forty to two hundred dollars. It is doing away with cooking. Cooked food raised a foot or more from the runners, is cheaper and more fattening than raw and in the best sleds, is lashed together food, but the question as to whether dogs with rawhide. The basket sled, as its can work better on cooked or uncooked name implies, is fitted with a basket, into food is one that will never be settled as which the load is placed, and from the long as there are "mushers" to argue the back of the basket, a pair of handles pro- question. ject, to be used in guiding the sled along Dogs are used for a variety of pur- the trail. It often happens that a Yukon poses in Alaska. With the exception of sled will be fitted with a home-made bas- the Fairbanks-Valdez trail, all winter ket, in imitation of its more aristocratic mail is carried by dog teams, and there brother. In very cold weather wooden is no doubt that the majority of the runners are best, but under ordinary cir- stampedes which seem to take place peri- cumstances, steel or brass runners are odically in Alaska, world be a failure better. There are two methods of were it not for the dog. It must not be guiding a sled. One way is to run be- supposed that a dog's usefulness finishes hind, and steer by means of the handle with the spring breakup, for the Indians bars. This is the usual way on a good and some white men, use their dogs all trail, or when the sled is lightly loaded. through the summer. They are either On a heavy trail, and when the load is made to carry small packs, or else run heavy, a different method of procedure along the bank of a river or lake and tow is followed. In this case a stout pole a boat. I well remember seeing an In- is fastened to the front of the sled on dian family on the move. The buck lay the right side, and projecting about four in the boat calmly smoking his pipe, feet beyond the nose of the sled. The while the squaw ran along the bank, with man steering the sled just walks in a baby strapped on her back, while at front and guides the sled by means of the same time, she was driving a bunch the pole. If the load is heavy he will of hungry looking dogs which were tow- place al rope round his shoulders, and do ing the boat. his share of the work. No one can The dog of Alaska has certainly played THE MID-PACIFIC 431 a prominent part in the life of the malamute dog, maimed and scarred, with North, and if there is any reward after an empty salmon can wedged firmly on death for the dumb creation, then he is his nose, surrounded by all the good justly entitled to his reward. If it pleases things that he was deprived of in this Fate to waft me to the happy hunting grounds after this life is finished, I shall earthly life, and despite the can on his not be at all surprised to see occupying nose, lifting up his voice in song to a a prominent place in that blest region, a perpetual full moon.
Single file on a narrow trail. 432 THE MID-PACIFIC The harbor from the Botanical Gardens.
The Lane Cove River
By DAVID B. HUNTER.
F course everyone has heard of calculating business man, for instance, Sydney Harbor. The first the harbor must appeal to you on ac- 0 words with which a Sydneyite count of its wonderful commercial pos- greets the stranger are : "Have you seen sibilities. The largest liners afloat can our harbor ?" A man who has not seen come right up to the very heart of the this wonderful masterpiece of Nature city. Great wallowing cargo lumpers might just as well not have been born ; knock their noses against the back door of the Town Hall ; and when the Amer- at least that is what Sydney people think. ican Atlantic fleet came out in 1908, It really is a magnificent harbor, even Sydney harbor swallowed the big men- if you are not given to the admiration o-war as if they had been fishing of Nature's beauties. If you are a cold, smacks.
433 434- THE MID-PACIFIC
Where the Lane Cove empties into Sydney Harbor.
It is a sore point with our friends harbor at Greenwich ; really as far up in Melbourne, and always will be, that as Fig Tree Bridge the river is an our great battleship—the "Australia"— arm of the harbor itself, but from sailed into Sydney Harbor and poked her Greenwich up it is known as the "Lane big guns into Government House win- Cove River." dows, but when she tried to make Mel- Fig Tree Bridge may be said to di- bourne's Port Philip Bay, all the tugs vide the river into two distinct parts. and divers of the Commonwealth had to As far as this bridge the river is navi- rush down to the "Rip" to dredge away gable for small coastal steamers and the the bottom, and even then it is rumored ubiquitous ferry. Above, small launches that all hands were ordered to throw and flat bottomed stern-wheelers reign their false teeth overboard to lighten supreme. ship. The stretch of water from the harbor Having impressed (I hope) the up to the old bridge is about four miles reader with the beauty, wonder and long, the water being salt. True to the importance of "Our Harbor," I will go nature of Sydney harbor, this river on to tell him about that little river itself has small bays and coves running (little in size, but a Congo for beauty) into the hills which are all clothed with the Lane Cove. the fragrant eucalyptus. These minia- The Lane Cove. and Parramatta are ture harbors, where one expects to see the two rivers which empty into Syd- Gulliver leading the Lilliputian fleet ney harbor. The Parramatta is the into the hands of the enemy, looks to larger, but the Lane Cove is the more the eyes of the stranger, just the place beautiful. for a refreshing swim. He does not This little river rises in the hills at see that sinister form, the long grey the back of Sydney and flows into the body of the man-eater lurking in the THE MID-PACIFIC 435 shadows of the rocks, and unless he distinction of volume, but all must grant has been warned, or has a "corn stalk" that it is beautiful. with him, a tragedy will very probably The banks inclosing the last few be enacted. It is the sad truth that all miles of the Lane Cove have lately be- these beautiful coves, that look so calm come a fashiOnable residential section, and peaceful, are death traps. Sharks and no one could wish for a more pleas- abound in this river, and although as a ant one. boy I have swum there often and come Woolwich and Hunter's Hill, two out whole, it is one of the most growing suburbs, are situated on the "sharky" places the harbor possesses. narrow peninsula which is formed by Fig Tree Bridge, which connects the Lane Cove and the Parramatta Woolwich with St. Leonards, is the rivers. Here are many fine houses, all terminus for the large ferries ; if one of them with their own boat-houses and would venture further there is a small bathing beach, surrounded by shady launch at hand which runs as far as trees, and all of them possessing that a place with the appropriate name of common gift of Sydney's—a magnificent "Fairyland." view. The bridge itself is quite a fine The Japanese Consul used to have a piece of engineering and is made to house on the Woolwich side of the open, for once in a while a large Lane Cove, one of the prettiest houses steamer threads its way up to the flour on the whole river. A fine boat-house, mills a few miles further on. Many an of course, a beautiful home, rather after hour have I spent waiting to see the the style of his own country, with soft, bridge swing apart ; for that was quite green lawns running right down to the an event in the sleepy life of the river. water's edge. Past the old bridge the character of On the other side of the river lie the river changes rapidly ; instead of Greenwich, at the mouth, and St. Leon- being wide, deep and salt, the banks ards, situated about half-way between close in, the water is at first brackish Fig Tree and Greenwich. but soon changes to fresh, and the navi- A little past St. Leonards is River- gator has to keep a sharp lookout for view College. This is one of the best sand-banks and snags. schools in the Commonwealth, and can As I have already said, "Fairyland" claim the extra distinction of possessing is well named. Here are soft grassy the most beautiful situation of them all. banks, beautiful old trees and a supreme The building is large and stands amid quiet surrounding the whole scene. It fine playing fields a short distance back is just the place where one would like from the water. The boys have their to lie all day with an interesting book, boat sheds, their football fields, and and unless the book were very interest- cricket fields. The water in front of ing I am afraid that one would fall their doors is perfect for rowing, and asleep—the tinkle of the river, the call any afternoon you may see the Riverview of the birds, and the si,.1-11 of the wind— eight, or the Riverview four out for all are charms of Morpheus. practice. Their crews are always on Past "Fairyland" the river narrows the water, and when the great race down still more, the trees wash their comes off, in which the half dozen big branches in the water, and soon even schools are represented, the boys of the the smallest boat would run aground. Lane Cove always hold their own. Like all our rivers, it cannot claim the The best time to see the river is 436 THE MID-PACIFIC
The source of the Lane Cove River, "small in size, but a Congo for beauty." THE MID-PACIFIC 437 in the morning. By "morning" I don't deck-hands, who are lowering buckets mean ten o'clock, or even nine. The over the side for water to wash down lucky people who live right on the the decks, the captain in the pilot house, river's banks have the best opportunity and of course those mysterious people for seeing it in all its glory. who always hide themselves among Get up right after sun-rise any sum- clanking pistons and hissing steam. mer morning and look at the Lane As the old boat steams along over Cove. You will be well repaid for the placid surface she leaves long your trouble. spreading waves behind her. No foam, The river is like velvet, the opposite the world is too sleepy for that—just bank looms strangely through a light two big creases in the velvet sea, which purple mist, right beside you the dew spread and spread till at last they on the trees sparkles and flashes in the break on either bank with a splash— early morning sunlight. Everything is and then the spell is broken ! The quiet, the whole world seems to be world wakes up. Birds begin to sing, a soothed to sleep by the faint whisper cart rattles along the road on the op- of the ripples on the golden sand. Sud- posite shore, a wind springs up to ruf- denly you hear a whistle toot, and fle the river's peaceful surface, and round the corner comes your old friend you, who have been standing enchanted the "Rose." This is her first trip for by the scene, dive into the sparkling the day and the only occupants are the water for your morning swim.
Leaving Sydney Heads. 438 THE MID-PACIFIC
Some world-famous athletes "On the Beach at Waikiki." (Inserts) Duke Kahanamoku and Ruth Stacker, Hawaii's premier male and female natators. (Bottom) Champion Healani crew in Hilo Harbor. The pole vault. The Land of Every Sport A boost for the 1918 Mid-Pacific Olympiad
By OWEN MERRICK. Sporting Editor, Honolulu Star-Bulletin.
S`,1 OMETIME ago a tourist in re- a climate that means much to those ferring to Hawaii called these who take an interest in athletics, and islands "The Isles of Sport." practically every department of athletic Whether or not he had studied the situ endeavor in the world is featured here. ation thoroughly remains to be seen, but The great showing made by the athletes at least his expression is one worth while of Hawaii has been one of the princi- to those who have watched the athletic pal factors in drawing the attention of side of life in the great outdoors of the world to the Paradise of the Pacific. Hawaii. Those who have failed to keep in These islands have been blessed with touch with athletics hardly realize the
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great amount of publicity that is swimmers in the sprint events. Ever brought to any community by virtue of since that day Hawaii has taken the their showing in athletic work. This lead in things aquatic. is as true of Honolulu as any other Before the mainland began to pay center in the world, and when Duke attention to Hawaii, swimming had not Kahanamoku won the world's champion- been taken seriously. There were a ship in Stockholm, the athletic world few meets held occasionally in Chicago began to look toward Hawaii as a com- and New York, but as a rule the Ama- ing factor in all lines of sport. teur Athletic Union did not encourage Hawaii, with an even temperature the sport. Then Duke Kahanamoku practically all the year around, is a made his invasion, and since that date Mecca for the sportsman. The tourist the leading athletic clubs of America who loves a game of tennis finds many have taken up the sport, and meets .are courts to give an opportunity to delight now held in hundreds of tanks through- in his favorite game. The golf enthusi- out America. ast, and there are hundreds who come Hawaii placed swimming on the map, here, may play the royal and ancient and in our colleges today with hundreds game on four links within the City of applicants for the swimming team, and County of Honolulu. they talk of swimming as a real Ha- The swimmer, baseball player, track waiian sport. A few years ago few athlete, fisherman, and poloist finds de- natators were noticed in intercollegiate light in the advantages that are placed sport, but today practically every uni- as one of the features of Hawaii as a versity of note in the country has a resort. With the exception of hockey swimming team. and skiing, Hawaii offers unusual facili- Larger crowds have attended the ties all the year around for every line swimming meets in Honolulu than at of. sport that may be found in the any other center in America, and the world. tourists who come here each year carry back with them the feeling that their Hawaii Leads in Swimming. home city should take more interest in Inasmuch as Hawaii has presented the sport, and as a result the advance two world's aquatic champions, many in aquatic sports has been especially believe that swimming is the feature noticeable during the past three years. of athletics in the Mid-Pacific. Un- Honolulu has produced two world's 4oubtedly swimming has played, a prom- champions—one of them Duke P. Ka- inent part in placing Hawaii to the hanamoku, who holds the record in the front, and the world's marks which 50 and 100-yard events, and the other were set by Duke P. Kahanamoku have Harold ("Stubby") Kruger, who is the done more than any one other thing in premier backstroke swimmer for 100 placing Hawaii on the map as a real yards. As an additional record, Hono- athletic center. lulu boys hold the world's record for Hawaii first came into world prom- the 400 and 500-yard relays, which inence in aquatic sports when Duke P. were made in the Y. M. C. A. tank Kahanamoku, after making a world's last year. record in Hawaii, was sent to Stock- George Cunha, Duke Kahanamoku, holm to represent America in the Harold Kruger, Clarence Lane and Olympic Games. Although he had but John Kelii, who have been dubbed the little experience, the young Hawaiian "Big Five," represent the greatest col- surprised the world by defeating the best lection of swimmers gathered together THE MID -PACIFIC 441
in any one city on the globe. New swimmer of the world : Olga Dorfner, York has Vollmer and Cann, Chicago American champion in the sprints, and has Hebner, McGillivray and Raithel, Dorothy Burns, American champion in and Los Angeles has Langer and Good- the 220-yard event, to compete in a man, but no one city has ever produced special race for the mermaid champion- five swimmers capable of taking the ship of the world, Palama Settlement measure of the local quintet. will also invite Perry McGillivray, Ted Hawaii is looking toward the future Cann, Norman Ross and other swim- in athletic work, especially in swim- mers to compete at this meet. ming, and the big meets of the year bring out the young stars who will take Track. the places of the leaders of today. America has learned much from the There are a number of swimmers in California track athletes, and it is ex- Honolulu under 15 years of age who pected that Hawaii will soon produce would make a creditable showing against some of the foremost stars in this field many seniors on the mainland. of sports. The climate is ideal for One of the bright features of the competition, and the runners, hurdlers, aquatic events staged this year was and jumpers have an excellent oppor- the appearance of 12 young girls from tunity to practise all the year around. Palama Settlement in a special race. Miss Ruth Stacker, former American Hawaii has never sent any real stars champion, took charge of the contingent, to the mainland, but the local boys and Honolulu swimming devotees gave who have gone to colleges in the east the young mermaids a great hand when have as a rule made a good showing they finished the first race ever staged in this branch of sport. Had track for girls under 15. Such exhibitions athletics been encouraged here the re- as these will surely tend to give Hono- sults which would have been obtained lulu a number of excellent mermaids would be more than worth the effort. in the future. The Proposed Mid-Pacific Olympiad, Nearly everybody in Honolulu knows 1918. how to swim, and naturally there has been much interest taken in this de- One of the biggest projects ever ad- partment of athletics. The swimming vanced in amateur athletics has been devotees have watched the leading stars planned for Honolulu in 1918, at which of the mainland, and such world-famous time more than 800 athletes from the athletes as Perry McGillivray, Walter Atlantic to the Pacific will be asked to Pomroy, Robert K. Small. Ludy Lan- compete here in the Mid-Pacific Olym- ger, Norman Ross Ted Cann, Her- piad which will decide the championship bert Vollmer, and Lincoln Johnson have of the high schools in America. appeared here. In addition, Miss Dor- The Mid-Pacific Olympiad plan has othy Burns, Miss Frances Cowells and been endorsed by the Chamber of Com- Miss Dorothy Becker have competed merce, Hawaii Promotion Committee against the local mermaids. and other organizations, and this project A project is now on foot to stage which will be the biggest event in the the greatest aquatic meet in history in history of athletics in Hawaii, should do Honolulu this summer. The Palama much to boost the participation in track Settlement has the plan in hand, and athletics here. Letters to the various intends to invite Fanny Durack of Syd- schools will soon be sent out, and a ney, Australia, champion woman sprint campaign will be started to entertain 442 THE MID-PACIFIC
Top: William Johnson, John Strachan. Bottom: Frank Baldwin, Walter Dillingham, Harold Castle, Arthur Rice. THE MID-PACIFIC 443 a ship load of boys in Honolulu in sport during the last year was the or- June, 1918. ganization of a junior team which prom- Polo. ises to play a leading part in the mallet game in the near future. More than Polo has been one of the leading a dozen players turned out for practise, sports in Hawaii, and the class of game and it is expected that two junior teams played here has measured up to the will be organized for play during the standards of the California and Eastern next season. One of the mainland teams. During August and September teams has expressed a desire to come the poloists hold the field, and the cham- to Hawaii, and should they make the pionship matches have been well at- trip the game will be given a big boost tended since the introduction of the here. game. As in swimming, this game has Tennis. brought the attention of the mainlanders More and more each year, Honolulu to Hawaii. The Hawaii team which devotees of sport realize the growth of played against the leading fours of tennis throughout the United States, California made a creditable showing, and Hawaii has recently staged a tour- and two of the Hawaiian-bred ponies nament which was given an official were used by the American team in sanction by the American Lawn Tennis the International Contests. Association. Tennis is on the boom in Several of the poloists in Hawaii rank Hawaii, and the facilities for playing well up with the stars on the mainland, the game are such that it is expected and have never suffered by comparison that in a few years Hawaii will have in the matches to date. Walter Dilling- a star in the "first ten." ham, a great player and one of the There are a number of club courts real boosters for polo in Hawaii, was a in Honolulu in additior to the many member of the Hawaii team which jour- private courts which are an asset to neyed to California and defeated some the game, and tournaments in Hawaii of the leading teams in the Golden State. have usually been very successful. Dur- Harold Castle, Arthur Rice, Walter ing Carnival time the Hawaii Tennis Macfarlane, Harold Rice, James Spald- Association stages a tournament which ing, Frank Baldwin, David Fleming, is open to the leading stars of the main- Arthur Collins, Charles Rice and J. land. Malina are among the leading players Since tennis has become a major sport who have helped to make polo history here a number of leading players of in Hawaii. America have participated in the play, Polo was given an impetus last year among them being William Johnston, by the presence of Jay Gould, who Maurice McLoughlin, George Church, proved to be one of the leading poloists John Strachan, Clarence Griffin, Harold of the islands during his stay here. Throckmorton, Beals Wright, Ward Gould played on the Kauai team, Dawson, and Carl Gardner. Such an which came back into the game after a array of stars is seldom found in a long absence. Last year four teams tournament other than in the eastern played in the championship, the Kauai, states. Maui, Army and Oahu aggregations That Honolulu is willing to pay for fighting it out for the championship, good tennis is certain after the showing which was won by the Oahu team. made in the tournament last month One of the bright features of the when large crowds turned out to watch 444 THE MID-PACIFIC
Johnston, Church, Griffin, Strachan and him, as without a doubt the trip of the Throckmorton in action. Johnston de- Portland Beavers to Honolulu has given feated Church in the finals, which was Hawaii more publicity throughout the witnessed by a record crowd of enthusi- Northwest than any other ten incidents asts. in the entire life of Hawaii. When William Johnston was in Hono- Portland has sent three newspaper lulu he suggested that a junior tennis representatives with the team and all organization be formed to boost the are loud in their praise of the people game among the young players, and the and the climate. Robert Cronin of the "Star-Bulletin," fathering the movement, Journal, Roscoe Fawcett of the Ore- has received the names of more than 40 gonian, and Lou Kennedy of the Tele- youngsters who wish to become affili- gram are the three newspaper repre- ated with such an organization. It is sentatives who have written hundreds of expected that there will be at least 100 columns about the training trip to boys who will join as soon as a per- Hawaii. manent organization is formed. "This is a wonderful climate," said Hawaii has not yet produced any Judge W. W. McCredie, president of champions or players who have ranked the Portland baseball club, the other in the first ten, but it is expected that day. "You have everything here to with the organization of a junior tennis help in conditioning a team, and I am club that in a few years there will be a sure that we will be pleased to return number of really good players here. here next year. You have a number Miss Maile Vicars of Hilo, who lost of good ball players in Honolulu, and out to Mrs. George Coulter (holder of some of them are entitled to a place the championship in the ladies' singles in the minor leagues." for eight years), is one star who should Honolulu has developed a number of make a great showing in the future. good ball players, and the game is William Eklund of Ewa has captured played on every corner lot the year the championship in the men's singles around. Honolulu has sent Johnny for the past three years, and has made Williams to the major leagues, and Bar- a good showing against the mainland ney Joy received a trial in the Pacific stars who have played here. Coast League. Now comes to Hono- lulu, players who will fight for places The Great National Game. in the Northwest League this season. Hawaii received the biggest baseball Vernon Ayau, the fast little shortstop boost in history when Walter McCredie, of the Chinese team, has been signed manager of the Portland team of the to play with the Seattle baseball club, Pacific Coast League, decided to train and the good wishes of the fans of in Honolulu. Other teams with faster Honolulu will go out to him in his new players have visited the Paradise of the venture. Ayau has been praised by Pacific, but the trip made this year is Harold Janvrin and other stars, and the most important event in the baseball the Portland contingent believe that he history of the islands. will become a star in the league this Hawaii has been stamped as a train- year. ing ground that cannot be equalled any- "Lefty" York, who at one time pitched where in America. McCredie wants to for the First Infantry team, will re- come back to Hawaii next year, and ceive a tryout with Vancouver, and it is certain that Honolulu will welcome inasmuch as he proved to be a star THE MID -PACIFIC 445
while in Honolulu should, make good golf links, all of which are regularly with the Canadian aggregation. Kan attended by the devotees of the royal Yen and Chinito Moriyama are two and ancient game. The Oahu Country stars of the Chinese Travelers who will Club, Moanalau, Schofield and Haleiwa be recommended to the managers of courses have been the Mecca for many the Northwest League. golfing tourists. Since the organization of the junior Golfers from the mainland have de- league there has been much interest clared that the course at the Oahu taken in the development of baseball Country Club is one of the prettiest in players, and it is expected that the stars America. The links, located between of the future will be recruited from the two ranges, present a pretty picture various teams participating in the last during the tourist season with scores schedule. Walter McCredie has said of golfers enjoying themselves to the that the organization of a circuit for utmost. The course is an 18-hole one, young players is the biggest boost that and is well bunkered, and the oppor- can be given baseball. tunity is given for a good match at Honolulu is well supplied with teams. any time. Every regiment stationed on the island Honolulu novices owe much to the has a baseball aggregation, and each Damons, who have so generously kept company boasts a team of some stand- up the golf links at Moanalua. The ing. The Twenty-fifth Infantry has led course, which has been opened to the the way in army circles, and their bat- public, is cared for by this good old tles with the Chinese teams have been Kantaaina family, and no fees have ever of much interest to the followers of been charged for play there. The baseball. course is of nine holes, and is recog- New organizations are being formed, nized as one of the "sportiest" in Amer- and with baseball playing a prominent ica. Natural bunkers built by Mother part in school athletics, it is expected Nature give the golf enthusiast an op- that in a few years many of the local portunity to play the game, and it must players will be given a chance to play be played well to produce the best re- with the league teams on the mainland. sults, as several holes on the course will Honolulu has entertained many organ- not stand for slicing and pulling. izations from afar, among them being The army officers at Schofield have the All-Nationals, All-Americans, Chi- taken up the game since the course cago University, Santa Clara University, was constructed at that post, and as a Olympic Club, San Francisco, and the result many of the leading players of Meiji, Keio and Waseda teams from Hawaii have learned their golf on that Japan. Baseball is on the way to suc- course. They also play at Haleiwa, cess in the islands and with the develop- another sporty nine-hole course which ment of the youngsters will continue to is popular with tourists as well as local hold a place in athletics of the Mid- players. Pacific. Football. On the Links. School sports have not been neglected Many of our tourists who come to in Hawaii, and football has proved to Hawaii invariably ask if there is a be one of the popular sports of the year. 'place where one might spend an hour Each autumn the various schools of or two in playing golf. Honolulu has Honolulu stage a championship series' within a radius of a few miles four which is hard fought from beginning 446 THE MID- PACIFIC to end. In these contests Punahou has to the front, and will be strong con- won a signal victory each year, taking tenders in future regattas. The day of the honors from Kamehameha, McKin- the regatta is declared a holiday, and ley, and Mills. The College of Hawaii all Honolulu watches the many events has also been an active factor in local which make rowing a popular sport in football. the islands. Football was first given prominence Following out the lead of the men, in the schools of the territory, but dur- the young ladies of Honolulu have ing the past few years the army has organized a boat club and in the last taken up the gridiron game, and as a regatta the Kunalu club entered two result the enlisted men have become crews in barges secured from the men's enthused. Last year the National Guard clubs. This year they will have two team won the championship of the barges of their own, as a fund was islands, defeating all corners, and ended recently raised to purchase two sliding- the season with a signal victory over seat barges for participation in the vari- the all-star Service aggregation. Foot- ous events. The appearance of the ball interest is increasing, and this year Kunalu girls in the aquatic sports has it is expected that much larger crowds been one of the features of the regatta. will attend the contests between the The Sport of Kings. various organizations. During the past year Honolulu has Hawaii has produced a number of taken a deep interest in horse racing, football stars of note, among them be- and the organization of the Hawaii Polo ing the Withington boys, Hitchcock & Racing Club was a big boost to the brothers, and Gilman of Harvard and sport here. Two race meets were held Galt of Yale. Other stars have made during the past year, and both proved good on the gridiron in our mainland to be successful from every standpoint. institutions. Much interest is taken in The Hawaii Polo & Racing Club Honolulu in the mainland games each have expended a large sum in the year, and special dispatches are received construction of a grandstand at Kapio- by the alumni of the various universities. lani Park, and the racing stables are Rowing. acknowledged to be equal to the best in the country. The revival of the Aquatic sports have always been fea- racing game which dates back many tured in Hawaii, and rowing has been years has been a boost for breeding of a big factor in the athletic program for horses, and in addition local horsemen the year. Each September the annual have purchased a number of the leading regatta is held on the harbor,.which is bang-tails of the Pacific Coast. attended by thousands interested in the The next race meet will be staged in rowing game. June, at which time a number of valu- The boat clubs in Honolulu—Healanis, able prizes will be awarded. Sportsmen Myrtles and Honolulus—have been ac- come from all of the islands of the terri- tive in boosting the sport, and with the tory and the June race meet held on addition of the Hilo Boat Club, which Kamehameha Day is one of the attrac- participated in the last regatta, the way tions of the summer season. has been opened for strong competition. The Healanis and Myrtles have divided Fishing. honors in the past years, but the Hono- Hawaii leads the field once more in lulu and Hilo clubs have been coming game fishing, and since last year has THE MID-PACIFIC 447 received more publicity on account of Trap Shooting. the visits of noted anglers, than any other section of America. Hundreds of Trap shooting is growing in popular- game fishermen come to Hawaii each ity here, and during the past year two year to spend the winter in angling for clubs have been organized. The Hawaii the "gamey tribe." • Polo & Racing Club has built traps at Kapiolani Park, and the Hawaii Gun James W. Jump, who is perhaps the & Game Club are now constructing best-known game fisherman in America, traps and a clubhouse on Punchbowl. visited Hawaii last year, as he had * * * * * heard about the fish that were to be Hawaii has been blessed with a found in the island waters. He came climate which brings out the love for for three weeks, and stayed three the great outdoors, and more and more months. He is back again this year, the lovers of good clean athletics are and as proof that there is no other beginning to realize that athletics mean section in America like Hawaii brought much to a community. Playgrounds his ocean-going launch with him. F. have been established throughout the K. Burnham of California and Harold city, and the youth of today is beginning Morris of Colorado are other noted to realize that work and play go hand anglers who have voted Hawaii the in hand in making Hawaii in the strict- home of the real game fish. est sense, the Paradise of Sport.
At Kapiolani Track. 448 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Manila idea. A sample Carnival Poster which Manila sends broadcast throughout the? Far East each year. Native life and industries are featured at the annual exhibition.
When Manila Celebrates
By H. E. WALKER.
NCE a year, for seven days The different government bureaus, and nights, Manila goes wild. agricultural, printing, education, etc., 0 Business is of secondary im- each has an exhibit of the work being portance, and everyone's thought is on accomplished. Native industries of all the Carnival alone. From the thousand kinds are shown, and agents with labor- islands of the archipelago, from the saving machinery and all sorts of up- far north Batanes Islands to the coral to-date articles are on hand, while every islets of the Sulu Sea, peoples and evening there are all sorts of fun- exhibits are gathered for the week. making devices along the "Pike" or Igorotes and Ilongotes are brought in "Strand," or whatever its name hap- with their samples of native handi- pens to be for that year. crafts. From the far south, warlike Then, in the large amphitheater, at Moros with gaily colored native cloth, night there are military tournaments krises, barongs, shields and other im- and all sorts of exhibition drills and plements of war and peace are there to mock battles, ending with a mammoth delight the visitor with folk and war display of fireworks. The athletic dances. events come off in the afternoons at
449 450 THE MID-PACIFIC
the polo grounds and the tennis courts three years to have three mammoth of the different clubs. parades during Carnival week—a mili- How It Is Ruu tary parade, an industrial parade and an automobile parade, taking place on The Philippine Carnival is wholly an three separate afternoons. American institution, having been The military parade is the most im- founded in a small way as a military posing of the three for there have been affair five years ago. Still the military as many as 5000 men in line led by feature is a great one, but the indus- the commanding general of the Phil- trial side from an educational stand- ippines division, and nowhere can a point is being pushed to the front more varied sight be seen. Regulars more and more with each succeeding February. of all branches of the army service, artillery, cavalry and infantry, Philip- It is an affair in which the whole pine Scouts with the same equipment city is interested, a stock company hav- as the regulars, Philippine Constabu- ing been formed and shares sold broad- lary, the semi-military police of the isl- cast, so that every American and a ands; sailors from the ships of the goodly portion of all other races rep- fleet and marines and bands from resented in the islands feel that it is mounted organizations, from the Fili- their big show. pino outfits and from the ships to make Wallace Field, comprising forty this parade one long to be remembered. acres, midway between the business section of the Walled City and the res- In the industrial parade, both horse- idential section of Malate and Ermita. drawn and automobile floats are used, is the scene of Manila's play-day. It the different government departments is just off the Luneta and within five as well as the merchants of the city minutes of the clubs and the new mil- uniting in making this parade a grand lon dollar hotel, the most modern in the success. Then, in the automobile parade, Far East. the machines are lavishly decorated, In one corner of this great enclosure natural flowers being used to a con- the amphitheater is built, seating 20,- siderable extent, and as Manila boasts 000 spectators, and here the stirring over 1000 machines this parade is a military events, acrobatic and fire- most beautiful one. works displays are carried out each Music Everywhere evening of the week, while the dance It is a week of music, for the Fili- floor, under the sky for a roof, in the pinos above all else are musical and center of the amphitheater, is so large dozens of bands are playing from late that 1000 couples can dance easily at in the afternoon until long after mid- one time to the stirring music of the night at the carnival city every day famous Constabulary band. of the week. Amusement and restaurant privileges are auctioned to the highest bidder, In addition to these native bands, and there are any amount of places in the Constabulary Band and various the carnival city wnere fun of all sorts army bands are employed so that there may be had, and refreshments, both is never a lack of music at any time. liquid and solid, may be obtained. There are three grand balls—the coronation, on the night the king and Three Parades queen make their appearance ; the It has been the custom for the past mask ball in the middle of the week, THE MID -PACIFIC 451 and the carnival ball on the last night, plant, which is like a banana, to the when all are out for the great wind- cleaned fiber pressed and ready for up and when dancing continues until shipment. the faint light in the East heralds the The Entertaining Side birth of another day and the carnival for the year is officially over. Apart from the purely educational side of the carnival, the week of fun Some Exhibits in the carnival city produces more It is the aim of the government of amusement than any like time any the islands to make the carnival as place in the world, without doubt. much of an educational feature for the Strange scenes from remote parts of Filipino people as possible, and to this the islands, strange people and cus- end exhibits are designed all along the toms are there, and one may see the line. war dance of the Moros, the dancers For instance, the bureau of agricul- brandishing spear and shield ; the light- ture has three experimental farms in er dance of some Luzon mountain peo- the islands, and but few of the common ple, and the civilized Filipinos on the people know anything about them. To regular dance floor, representing three help spread the knowledge of what widely separated classes. these farms are doing in stock-raising, These people f row the far parts of a large exhibit is made at the carnival, the islands bring large collections ot including thoroughbred horses, cattle, their native handiwork, beads, gay gar- sheep and swine. The admission to the ments, hand-made silver or wooden or- carnival city is but 10 cents, and for naments, as well as weapons of offense this insignificant sum thousands of Fili- and defense, all of which are sold and pinos are able to see the work which which bring the exhibitors a neat sum. is being done by the bureau of agricul- Down the midway are scores of side ture, and get an idea of what stock attractions, a veritable Coney Island should be. on a small scale, and the barkers from Articles of all sorts, from the dainty the different places make the visitor embroidery of the Filipino girls, done think of little old New York. in their sewing classes, to mission fur- Athletic Events niture made by the boys in the school- shops are all on exhibition and sale. In Thousands of visitors come to Manila this way the schools, and the pupils them- each year for the carnival and not selves, obtain money to buy other ma- least among them are the athletic terials and carry on the work. champions from Hongkong and other The bureau of printing, which has far eastern ports. The soldiers of one of the finest print shops to be seen Uncle Sam are competitors in field in the world, has a building devoted and track events with British soldiers to its machinery and work, so that the from nearby British colonies or sta- Filipinos are able to see the most mod- tions, and the visiting officers go up ern methods of work in this line. against local men in tennis and polo, There are many enthusiastic boosters the events drawing larger entries each in the islands, and those developing a year. certain section, like the Davao hemp _ Other teams will be present, one country in the far south, bring an ex- coming from Singapore, with the prom- hibit of the hemp fiber which is grown ise of one from Australia, so that the there, showing all stages from the invitation extended to Hawaii. and Coast 452 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Manila Hotel.
The famous Luneta. THE MID-PACIFIC 453 players each to be represented at the Filipino youth is an enthusiastic fan and tournament, if accepted, will make one player of America's national game. of the greatest gatherings in the his- There are now quite a "string" of tory of the game. Carnivals which follow each other at Tennis claims a portion of .the time, different cities around the Pacific. and racquet wielders from the British Honolulu has her big celebration pivot- colonies go up against military men ing around Washington's Birthday, Java and civilians in Manila, while the lo- has her annual Exposition of native in- cal British colony has a cricket game dustries, Manila has her season of fun for teams from other cities. each year, and it is hoped that some day Baseball is on during the whole arrangements will be made that will en- week, but this is confined to the Philip- able visitors to make a trip around the pines, many teams coming in from the provinces to play for the championship Pacific, arriving at each city in time for of the islands, and be it known that the the annual celebrations and carnivals.
King Carnival reigns supreme for a week. 454 THE MID-PACIFIC Flower arrangement in Japan.
Tea-Drinking and Flower Arrangement In Japan
By D. T. H. McKINNON.
E cannot help but admire the Tea-Ceremony. Japanese, for there are things The tea-ceremony is, perhaps, the W which they do better than any strictest and most complicated of all other people in the world. Little de- the ceremonies with which the cultured tails which the rest of us let pass, are Japanese surrounds himself, and when held highly important in the eyes of the carried out in full, is very intricate. Nipponnese, and, we are told if we First, the guests who arrive on the ap- take care of the little things in life, the pointed day are shown into the waiting- big ones will take care of themselves. The Japanese are in the main, artistic. room, and, when they are all assembled, They even drink their tea artistically, they are conducted into the tea-room. and the art of flower arrangement is This room should properly be a build- taught in all schools, both public and ing by itself, and the commonest size private. is nine feet square, that is, one of four
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mats and a half, the half-mat being in way in which the tea should be drunk, the centre. The maximum number of the number and style of bows and salu- guests is five, four of whom sit in a tations to be made in offering, receiving, row and the fifth at right angles to the and returning the bowls, and also in the rest. The host faces the row ; he brings instructions as to when and how the in the tea-utensils and sets them in bowls and other articles in the room order. The guests are first regaled with are to be taken up and admired, and a slight repast, and, when it is over, the manner of expressing such admira- they are requested to retire into the tion and of replying thereto. The for- waiting-room, while the host puts away malities are as strict as court ceremony the trays and plates and sweeps the and are often irksome to the beginner, room. They are then called in again. who is nervous and afraid of exposing A small quantity of powdered tea is himself at every step. put into the tea-bowl which is used on The description above given refers to these occasions, and hot water is poured the formal process as practised by one into it and stirred with a bamboo-whisk of the schools of the ceremony, which until it is quite frothy. The bowl is can be followed only in a family which handed to the guest at the head of the can afford to build a separate tea-room row ; he takes three sips and a ,calf, for the purpose. But the ceremony need the fourth sip being called nait a sip, not always be so exacting. The gen- as it is much slighter than the first eral principles, such as the making, of- three, and, after wiping the brim care- fering, and drinking of powdered tea, fully, he passes it on to his neighbor, and the courtesies accompanying it, are who also sips and hands the bowl to the now taught in most girls' schools, be- third guest, and so on to the fifth cause the knowledge of the ceremony guest, who returns it empty to the host. certainly adds to their grace and im- After this loving-cup, the host stirs a parts to them that quiet, stately bearing bowl for each of his guests, that is, he which characterizes the Japanese lady makes tea in the bowl for the first of culture. Indeed, this calm, sedate guest, who drains it in three sips and gracefulness is the result of the study a half and returns it to the host, who of the tea-ceremony and is assuredly a then washes it and makes a fresh bowl more valuable acquisition than the of tea for the second guest, and so on knowledge of the formalities themselves. until the 'last guest is served. As this process takes a long time, on account Flower-Arrangement. of the formalities which have to be The idea underlying the art of flower observed in making, serving, and drink- arrangement is that flowers should not ing the beverage, sometimes two bowls be thrown in a bundle into a vase, but are used so that . while one guest is that due consideration should be given drinking and admiring a bowl, the host to their artistic arrangement. The can be making the other for the next. flowers should even in a vase be ar- The tea in the loving-cup is stronger ranged as they might appear in nature. than that in the others. It is not always, it is true, as they actu- The bare procedure is simple; but ally appear in the open air ; but they the complexity lies in the hard and fast are arranged as they might look if aided rules to be observed in the arrangement by art under certain conditions, for the of the room, and respecting the utensils flowers in the vase always have a de- to be used, the manner in which they gree of symmetry which is but rarely should be handled in making tea, the found in nature. Their form is often THE MID-PACIFIC 457 artificial, but not opposed to nature, ment, the art is not confined to flow- just as dwarfed trees are stunted by ers, but extends also to the treatment art, but have perfectly natural shapes. of trees and shrubs without flowers. The rules regarding the position of the Among the trees, the branches of which branches in a vase are certainly con- are, when in flower, put into vases, are ventional, insisting as they do upon the plumb, camellia, cherry, peach, rose, balance and symmetry of form, but they azalea, Japan quince, and wistaria, while do not go beyond the bounds of possi- the herbaceous flowers are innumerable. bility. The only objection, in fact, that might be brought against them is There is nothing more artistic or that there is always present the danger pleasing to the eye than the house of of taking for normal forms that are a cultured Japanese, where everything seen in nature perhaps but once in a harmonizes. The Japanese are a won- million. But of the gracefulness of derful people, and while they are learn- the arrangement there can be no two ing much from the rest of the world, opinions. there is much that they can teach all Although we speak of flower arrange- of us. 458 THE MID-PACIFIC Living practically out of doors.
Found! A Perfect Climate
By L. W. DE VIS-NORTON
RAVELERS tell us that climate Perchance, despairing of these, he may is made up of a mixture of sev- try another trail and gasp in the sullen. T eral kinds of weather—good, vicious heat of an Indian day ; exhaust bad and indifferent, and that nowhere himself in the dense, dripping steam of in the world may absolute perfection be the New Guinea jungle, or get sun- found. stroke in the red-hot atmosphere of But the average globe-trotter is apt to Aden. He may wander at will through linger in Europe, where he will sample the tropic islands of the Southern Seas. the much-vaunted Riviera, whose cold and be tormented by the blazing hours mistral storms will speedily disillusion of day, or the nightly swarms of hungry him—or the Far East, with its glorious mosquitoes, until finally he may return spring and bitter winter ; or perhaps to his own home, convinced that this cli- Australia, where he may experience al- mate idea is all a myth, a thing not to be most every range of temperature in the found on this side of the Gates of Hea- span of twenty-four hours. ven, and perhaps he will come to the con-
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bit of coast scenery, Island of Hawaii, where the climate is always perfect. THE MID-PACIFIC 461 clusion that his own home town is best steamer run from the California or after all, and he will thereby be the British Columbian coast — in ten days more content to end his days within its from New Zealand, a fortnight from known limitations. Australia and about the same time from But perhaps, on the other hand, he Japan or China, by any of the palatial may yet cherish a belief that in some liners whose swift prows cleave the wa- unknown land it may be possible for him ters of the blue Pacific, the Island of Ha- to find climatic conditions which repre- waii (which gives name to the Hawaiian sent the human idea of perfection ; and group) may be reached, a jewel of rarest he will ask himself whether it may yet beauty set in such shimmer of sunflecked be that this earthly Paradise can exist ; sea as the mind of man can scare con- where no extremes are to be found, and ceive ; an island of four thousand square yet where he may, within the compass miles, possessed of such infinite variety of one short day, find the particular of scenic attractions and climatic per- brand of climate for which his fancy fections as must surely content the most hungers at different seasons. fastidious. Within its confines the trav- Now, the readers of the Mid-Pacific eler may find everything which makes Magazine probably include many whose God's Own Outdoors the best of all pos- travel experience is wide, and to whom sessions given to mortal man. Here he hardly any quarter of the globe is "terra may find the wild, untamed beauty of incognita." Such persons will agree tropical forests ; the golden coral strands with me that the ideal climate exists, and of the story-books ; a wealth of flowers not only that, but it may be reached with and foliage; savage gorges ; gentle up- ease and comfort from almost every part land meadows where the kine stand knee- of the world. deep in the luscious grass ; rolling up- Where, then, is this "rara avis" to be lands ; wide plains; leaping cascades and found ? Where is it possible to find a sparkling rivulets, placid rivers and tur- land where the balmy air is tempered by bulent torrents, and, should he tire of cool and gentle breezes ; where Dame these, he has but to lift his eyes unto Nature has lavished her choicest treas- the hills and he shall behold the lofty ures in abundant profusion, and where, mountains with their summits crowned in a land of everlasting summer, the in the eternal snows. bracing cold of Winter may be enjoyed Again, should he become weary of at will ? Is it indeed possible to bask in even these delights, he may set forth the rays of a tropic sun on a golden upon a perfect automobile road, and in beach where lapping wavelets play their another hour or se be gazing into Dame endless game, and yet, when weary of Nature's most titanic workshop, where this, to quickly ascend into the temper- everlasting fires roar and bellow and ate zone and yet further into the region tossing lavas unceasingly carry on their of ice and snow ? Surely nowhere on work of world building before his very this round globe of ours can such condi- eyes—the Volcano of Kilauea. Or he tions be found. may turn away from this awful sight and Let me answer the question. These wander past yet other workshops, unten- conditions certainly exist; and exist in anted now, and almost terrible in their such close juxtaposition to each other as silence, bearing mute yet eloquent testi- to satisfy the most exacting seeker after mony to the unimaginable forces which his own pet particular variety of climate. opened those vast, inspiring throats in Within the compass of a short week's bygone ages when the world was builded 462 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID PACIFIC 463
out of the primeval chaos: "when the ary to December ; he may sweep over earth was without form and void, and some 600 miles of ideal roads through darkness brooded over the face of the ever-enchanting and fairy-like vistas of waters." scenic glory ; he may stay in excellent Marvellous it is, and yet, how true, hotels whose cool buildings are half- that the traveler may drowse away the buried in greenery of tropical foliage, or morning hours on a sun-kissed beach, he may climb upwards 14,000 feet above in "lotus-eating land, where it seemeth the sea into snowstorms and blizzards, always afternoon" and on the same day, or the champagne-like air of the highest may reach an atmosphere in which the altitudes. years shall slip away from him as doth Be he an artist, there are countless a, garment, and in which the blood runs subjects for his brush and pencil ; be he in mad riot through his veins and he a. botanist, there is a virgin field for wants to laugh and sing with the sheer study ; an antiquarian, there are ancient joy of living. temples and ruins to be explored and si- A land such as Hawaii would be per- lent pages of history long dead, to be fection even without its sunny, hospi- exhumed ; be he a student of agriculture, table people, but nowhere in all the world there are the products of both tropic and will the traveler be made more welcome, temperate zones at his command, or, be nowhere will he be so entreated to re- he simply a seeker after NatUre's glories main, and no other land will he leaye or wonders, there is every variety of with such reluctance. He, may spend a scenery within reach, 'or he may delve week, a month, a year of ten years, it deep into the mysteries of ever-active is all the same—here he will be at home volcanoes under the most expert and . in a land of homes ; he will become a part courteous guidance. of the daily life ; he will "fit in." His city Small wonder is it then that the trav- life with its limitations and countless eler has discovered Hawaii, and that, as petty annoyances will fade away as a the years roll by, the island is becoming dream, and he will rapidly learn to get more and more the Mecca of those wise the most out of each glorious day as it ones who love to follow the 'unbeaten comes. He will learn the true meaning track and get closer in touch with the of "aloha," that dear word of greeting, Infinite. of friendship and of love ; and when at last, flower-garlanded, and with a sob in A land of sunshine breeds a sunny peo- his throat, he tears himself away, that ple : sunny people make life a thing of same word "aloha" or "God be with you joy even as their surroundings make it 'til we meet again" will follow him from a thing of beauty. There is, about Ha- the shore and remain with him until he waii, an intangible, indefinite "some- shall one day return to this island of thing" which sinks deep into the soul and the truly blest. fills it with an abiding peace, and a dis- position of charity to all men. Visitors In the sunny island of Hawaii, life come and visitors go—but always and is lived as indeed it should be lived. ever they come back again, scare know- Eternal summer invites to the great out- ing why and scarce realizing that its doors. The dweller in this land may breakfast upon his cool shady porch, or spell has thrust roots deep into their lanai, with nodding flowers and the hearts. Men will live perhaps a few tall, graceful plams all around him ; he years on its shores ; their duty or am- may swim or fish every day from Janu- bition calls them elsewhere, but sooner 464 THE MID-PACIFIC
Along the Hilo Railroad, Island of Hawaii, which skirts the coast almost entirely on steel viaducts, affording glimpses of scenic beauty unequalled in the world. THE MID-PACIFIC 465 or later they come back, and in coming, again the sapphire seas, the low red cliffs, feel they are reaching home at last. the shining sands, the emerald green of Regular residents of long standing, the canefields, the waving palms or "kamaainas," as they are affectionately those grand, silent snow-crests outlined termed, go away to other lands and in- against the azure vault above? tend, perhaps, never to return. But Perhaps these things count for some- somewhow, life is not the same : there thing; perhaps old associations are ever is a restlessness, a discontent to which a strong influence, and perhaps also it they have long been strangers ; they may is that they hunger for the peaceful con- fight against it, or immerse themselves ditions which may not be found in the in business or pleasure and think they rushing cities where every man's hand have forgotten. But one day they will, is against his neighbor. Perhaps all perchance; see a picture, or hear one of these things contribute, but I believe the plantive old island melodies: they that most of all it is the fact that hu- struggle a little longer, but it is of no man nature ever craves for perfection avail. A longing not to be denied enters in all things ; that they want to live life into them, and presently they are on as it ought to be lived, naturally and in board a steamer whose engines are freedom, under ideal conditions, scenic swiftly speeding them back to the land and climatic. They have tasted the joy of their desire. of a perfect climate, and, having once It is ever the same old story, this tasted it, nothing can ever be the same story of return. Why do they come? elsewhere. That is the secret; that, and Why are they not content? Is it that the people themselves. In the words of they miss the sunshine and the flowers, an island song, which may be equally the langorous breezes and the low croon- applied to all who have ever lived upon, ing of the lazy surf upon the coral reefs ? visited or left our shores: Is it that they miss the warm-hearted affection of the islanders and the dear Hawaii haunts you; Hawaii wants you, old customs with which they were once So come back to sunny Hawaii." so familiar? Is it that they want to see And so—Aloha to you all. 466 THE MID-PACIFIC
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A typical Solomon Islander. A Cannibal—no doubt—but picturesque in the extreme. In the following pages, Mrs. London tells of the "Snarkites'" last experiences in the Solomons. aChild-men" of Pennduffryn.
(The Log of the Snark) Nearing the End of the Log
By CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON *
. ACK had by now definitely con- discovered) and Tasman, for a few cluded to lay up the Snark at days. This would partially compensate Marau Sound, near Pennduffryn, for the loss of the Bellona and Rennel elwith her crew, and take a run to Syd- adventures, for Harding had backed ney on the next following trip of the and filled until Jack was possessed Makambo, and go into hospital for an with one of his deep disgusts, and I operation. So we engaged passage knew that that particular picnic would ahead with Captain Mortimer, and went never come off. On aboard our blessed boat for the short Wednesday, August 26, 1908. cruise to Meringe Lagoon on Ysabel, We left Tulagi, watered at Gubutu, and a short run north to Lua-Nua and, with Tehei aloft to watch for coral (Lord Howe—the Ongtong-Java of the patches, had just cleared the wharf and
*Copyrighted by Author. 467 468 THE MID-PACIFIC got well under way, when an unmis- The pair trotted like a span of ponies, takably American voice shouted from an and barked with throats like bells. anchored ketch : "Oh, they're Prince and Biddy," Jack "Long time since I've seen that flag cried, and Peggy set up a hysterical here !" howl, over-balanced, and plopped over "How long?" Jack demanded genially. the rail. Once in the water—for the "Oh, several years," the man replied, first time in her life—instead of trying "—I guess you knew the schooner, to get back, she made valiantly for the Sophie Sutherland—Alec McLean !—eh? maternal bosom, where Biddy, raising How about that 'Sea Wolf' ! and setting her feet alternately in the And in the brief passing, we learned edge of the tide, beautiful with mother- that he was a Pennsylvanian, and that hood, received her lost daughter with he wished there was room for him on a thorough going over of tongue and the Snark. How many wished that ! paw, to see if she were clean and We did not blame them—we were so sound, while the interested but more glad to be there ourselves. And the dignified sire stood a little apart, oc- happenings of our wonderful nine days casionally wagging his shaggy stub-tail. on the Minota seemed very remote— I have forgotten to mention that Peggy, like the fulfilment of a dream long most human of four-footed beings, had ago. contracted at Tulagi a perfectly human We had an inspiriting brush with a and very painful malady—urtecaria. big recruiting schooner, the Malekula, Pitiable as were her deep eyes of suf- whose men we knew at Pennduf fyn, fering, she was a mirth-provoking fig- until our engine, ever faithful in fail- ure, for her poor little face, her broad ure, broke down. After a night of brisk puppy-paws, and her lank and as yet but steady wind and sea, in which untrimmed tail, were all shapeless with Jack kept unbroken vigil, for there knobs. She tried to hide herself under were coral shoals to dodge, in the canvas, anything—but any contact, how- morning, ever slight, made her shriek with sen- August 27th sitive agony. "I'm not surprised a bit We found ourselves rocking along at Peggy contracting a human disease," the northern coast of Ysabel, her moun- Jack had commented. He had had tains all lovely colors in the waking urtecaria himself, and was in full sym- day. Meringe Lagoon is a passage pathy despite his laughter at the asym- made by a garland of coral and islets etrical, unfinished form or her, like a off the mainland, the waves of which partially unthumbed dog of clay. lap the roots of mangroves where above Next came John Schroeder, and his the water, cluster very edible rough- assistant, Mr. Meredith. Mr. Schroeder shelled oysters. "Wait till we tell 'em is brother-in-law of Captain Svenson, at home that we picked oysters off and manager of the plantation. He trees," Jack grinned, as the first one placed his house at our disposal, and slipped down his throat. "—Say, that regretted that he was minus a cook, tastes like another !" And a dozen so he could not ask us to lunch. We followed after. had both men eat with us, of course, We came to rest in five fathoms, and listened to advice about careening and were first greeted from the beach the Snark. At high tide we ran her by a pair of enormous terriers, one red aground on a steep-to part of the beach and the other smooth as a sorrel house. indicated, and strange enough it was to THE MID PACIFIC 469 feel her forefoot stop on the firm years ago, discovered "Santa Ysabel de sand—touching for the first time in her la Estrella," he found the natives lived tale of many thousands of miles of sea- principally on cocoanuts and roots, and faring. As the tide went out, and the was beginning to think they lacked hull lay over, all hands and the cook animal food, when a chief sent him a went about removing the astounding lordly present, a quarter of a boy, with accumulation of barnacles, working until the hand and arm, and was deeply of- ten at night. It was a wonder she had fended when it was promptly buried. handled as well as she had. "Gee 1 We hoped Wada had not heard this They're like oysters,". Jack delivered scrap of history. As soon as he went himself, trying to pry a large shell loose down with fever, Nakata, to our sur- from the man o' war copper. that we prise and pleasure, stepped gaily into hadn't laid eyes on since the boat was the galley, and prepared a meal of launched from the ways in South San which oysters fried in butter was but Francisco. the appetizer. "Oh," he grinned, "I Mr. Schroeder strongly advised that 'look 'm eye belong me' one year now, I sleep ashore, as the yacht would as- and I t'ink I can cook good " sume all sorts of unrestful angles. Jack And, "Perhaps," he added musingly, "I begged me to comply, although he felt shall be with you always ; and I like to he must stay aboard, as there was more learn all kinds of work." or less risk to the boat in careening on To my delight—and sorrow, when I so sharp an incline. He sent Nakata thought of parting—Peggy became my along with me, and shadow, as if she considered herself my August 28th. particular property and devoted slave. Mr. Schroeder had done his worst— When T. awakened at six, to the and best—to her, as was eloquently at- resonant boom of a wooden drum in tested by a gory bandage at one end the quarters of the Malaita boys, after and a plaintive voice at the other. eight untroubled hours, I found the Never was there such a puppy. Her little man curled fast asleep before my brother, Possum, himself an adorable door, where he had been all night. He armful, was a mongrel beside this fine, sat up, wide awake on the instant, rub- super-soul of a dog, Peggy—"Peg-tail" bing his cheerful eyes. Always he for the nonce. Martin earned indignant knows exactly where he is, the moment protest from Jack and I when he said, he opens his eyes—no slow Oriental honestly : drowse in his return to consciousness. "She's a nice enough dog, I'll admit ; Wada, who had perked up consid- but I can't see she's any different from erably when we sailed out of Malu on any ordinary yellow cur." the Eugenie, had lapsed when the Snark The only criticism of Peggy ever touched Ysobel. We explained—what wrung from Jack was when, having he could see with his own eyes—that wallowed instinctively and thoroughly in the Ysobel natives are of a bettef grade a dead carcass on the beach, she (they had a very slight infusion of tempestuously flung herself to cuddle Polynesian), that there are no bad bush- in his neck, where he lay against a men. All to no avail; he knew the rock on the beach: plantation was worked by Malaitans, and his terror increased, and threw him "You brute—you filthy imp—Peggy, into fever again. Peggy, I thbught you were a white When Mendana, nearly four hundred woman !" he concluded accusingly to the 470 THE MID-PACIFIC abject heap that cowed where he had ment, and told me to select the best of involuntarily flung her. his best. Of course, Jack would not It was well Jack stayed by the yacht, listen to a gift of such value, for the for, having worked a little farther up choice shell brings a large price in Syd- the slope at high water, she nearly cap- ney, and our friend at length, over- sized outward at low. Jack had a ter- borne, consented to talk business. It ribly anxious period as he observed was the thickest and most beautifully that she did not right in the rising marked shell we ever saw, and Jack tide, and when the water crept • and reveled with me in picking out a goodly crept over the rail, up the vertical deck, pile. Already I was sketching designs and began to lap the edge of the sky- for combs and pins, and dressing-table light, then he acted, and things popped boxes, while Nakata, fired with en- for a while as additional lines were car- thusiasm, could hardly wait to get where ried ashore from the mastheads. It was he might buy tools and learn to work nip and tuck for a time, but at last the the enticing material. heavy hull slowly began righting. Every Martin tramped to a hill village, but one looked strained after the close call. we did not go into the interior. Only one trip we made from the Lagoon, and For me, the two weeks at Meringe that was to a dot of uninhabited islet, Lagoon were a stretch of almost un- Kiaba, a few miles directly north, to mitigated repose and beauty—long shoot the pigeons that home there after- nights of sleep, rainbow mornings on noons from their mainland feeding. Mr. the curving pink north beach, on the Schroeder took us across the indigo way to the Snark, Prince and Biddy, summer sea in a 19-foot open cutter those wedded comrades, racing and with a large sail. Kiaba is nothing frisking along to a swim aboard, where more or less than a round miniature they knew they should have a bite or sea-girt garden of Eden, a dozen feet two of delicious fried pigeon, or broiled high and a third of a mile across its goat (Martin went hunting on a tiny sanded floor, ringed with a gleaming island on the reef), or succulent, color- beach of disintegrated coral, a handful ed fishes ; happy hours of work aboard of which looks like ground colors. The or ashore, romps with the pups, and an woods are a breathless Paradise of big occasional swim—always a risky amuse- white-shafter trees and lightsome foliage ment, what of sharks and crocodiles, of banyan and bamboo, tendriled with both of which we saw from the yacht. lacy creepers. The stillness was broken Our stay was delayed beyond the few only by the coo and rustle of pigeons, days we expected to be here, waiting or the stir of strange forms that clung for bigger tides to careen the hull to trunk and limb. It seemed a shame properly. to discharge a gun in such environment I had been looking forward for —until we had a good look at our first months to finding turtle shell, and here iguana, three and a half feet in length the natives brought a 'scale' or two "Gee! look at the alligator up a tree !" aboard, the armor of the hugh Hawks- Martin gasped ; and I wondered if this bill turtle, some of the pieces being could be one of Woodford's "lizards 8 and 20 inches long, and broad in pro- several feet long." At any rate, so portion. But Mr. Schroeder, learning utterly evil is the appearance of an my desire, opened up a box of specially iguana, so absolutely is it a conventional selected pieces, already sealed for ship- devil in shape and style, that it invites THE MID-PACIFIC 471 destruction. We played it was the Ser- homeward, and a silver moon two days pent, and blew its horny head off. And old sank into the fainting rose of the it is as harmless as it is horrible, the West. Soon the bright and starry sky poor iguana. clouded over ,and our placid day of Martin and I, with much yelling and sun and smooth sea was followed by a laughter, chased a frightened shark in night of rain and squalls—the "dusty" the reef y shallows off shore, trying to weather that comes with the moon's hit it with out pistols. On the jeweled first quarter. But before the wind blew beach, where our every step flushed a up, we gave the shore and ourselves a clattering of tiny hermit-crabs, Sch- treat with the searchlight, the fish leap- roeder found a turtle's nest, from which ing by thousands out of the illuminated we gathered 100 eggs like ping-pong water, where the reflections of our balls, buried 18 inches in the sand. I mooring ropes wrinkled like black never ate anything better in my life snakes. in way of an omelette, than those Na- The upshot of our outing to Kiaba, in kata made from the tiny soft-shelled spite of caution, was bush-poisoning for eggs. The consistency was as if they us all—the excruciating "scratch- had been mixed with a pinch of fine scratch" ngari-ngari, that did for the corn-meal, and the flavor was excel- lent. Sophie Sutherland's doomed crew. Jack had it the worst, Martin and I ruefully There must have been too much ex- had to admit while we vainly tried to citement for me, or it might have been keep our hands still. Nakata had the extra coolness of the day, for I was caught it on Guadalcanal, and to our stricken suddenly with fever, and went great sympathy confessed that he had through a novel sweating—swathed in not sat down for a month, and that he the boat's canvas, and laid on the beach was now obliged to tie his hands at in the sun, with my head shaded. How night. We all pitched into the Lysol, touchingly kind and tender men can and added another kind of doctoring to be ! They carried me back to Ysabel our list, alternately dosing our Solomon in the bottom of the cutter, weak and sores with peroxide of hydrogen anu with a racing pulse, but noisy and other things, our bottle of corrosive sub- cheerful. Fever grows to be all in the limate solution being finished on the day's work here—Wada to the contrary; Minota, and our main supply of tablets and Henry is not as yet resigned to its having been left at Pennduffryn. Jack, recurrences. who had now completed his article Seventeen pigeons were all we shot, "Cruising in the Solomons," set to and Jack had been hugely put out at work on another, "The Amateur M. finding that the smokeless cartridges he D.," wherein he exploited his medical had ordered were black powder. But it was a red letter day anyway. experience from pulling teeth on Nuka- The Southern Cross dipped behind a Hiva to abating "scratch-scratch" on towering height of Ysabel as we ran Ysabel. 472 THE MID-PACIFIC
A giant redwood of California's great outdoors, where game of all kind abounds. America's Happy Hunting Ground
By FRED ALBRIGHT
\\, ITH its mighty mountains over rivers and small lakes, while in the woods which stalk the mountain lion. near such waters are the feeding places of 7 the deer and that game most myriads of quail, not a few turkeys, an oc- sought for by big hunters—the Big Horn, casional bear, and hundreds of other wild or mountain sheep; with its over-grown animals, both fit and unfit for the table. bays, inlets and rivers replete with fish and In order to make sure of a few days' wild fowl, and with the waters off its uninterrupted sport on shore in Lower Cali- shores alive with game fish, ranging from fornia it is necessary to have fishing and Spanish mackeral to man-eating sharks, hunting permits from the Government. Lower California might well be railed These, if one has a friend or two among the America's Happy Hunting Grounds. No- Government officials, are not difficult to where else on the continent, or in the waters secure. A guide, too, unless one is partic- surrounding it, may game be found in great- ularly venturesome, might be a desirable ad- er abundance. Fish beyond estimate—par- dition to a hunting and fishing party. Some ticularly mullet; duck, geese and many of the lowlands in this region are almost other kinds of waterfowl, fill the bays, impassible, because of the dense under-
473 474 THE MID-PACIFIC
Trout-fishing in one of California's streams.
growth, and there are sloughs, morasses and and gulls cross and recross each other in bogs that are not altogether safe for the un- their quest for food; important looking initiated. pilot birds come out to see if their ser- Going down the coast from California, vices are required, and great flocks of long- one is all along impressed by the thousands winged sea gulls flap lazily over the smelly and thousands of sea-birds whirling and Southern waters. Just to watch the birds, swinging over the water, or perched on the without any thought of gun or snare, is a great rocks that rise straight up, hundreds fascination hard to resist. You are helped of feet, out of the pounding surf, for along to loosen the hold of this fascination by this coast in many places the mountains the odor for which the birds are largely re- stand knee-deep in the waves. "Where little sponsible, and which is anything but pleas- coves provide a narrow beach, the sand is ant. literally hidden by the millions of birds. Out on the rocks along this coast, and Pelicans sail over you, flying in a most or- wherever a bit of beach provides a resting- derly manner, one behind the other, just place, one may see seals, sometimes in big swaying up and down, with seemingly never herds, and when they're not seen their a flap of the wing to aid them; jabbering roaring is heard for miles and miles. cormorants scold at you from the rocks, Whales, too, are no uncommon sight in bringing to mind the Tlingit Indian legend these waters. They feed on the many of far Alaska about how the cormorant lost kinds of small fish to be found there. With his power of articulate speech (which was mouths open wide enough to swallow up because he talked too much) ; tarns, divers a ship-wrecked sailor, raft and all, they THE MID -PACIFIC 475 rush into a school of tiny fish, swallowing dense brush and washes again, you shoot hundreds of them, and leaving hundreds quail until you're ashamed of yourself. If more stunned and wounded for larger fish, you're a sportsman, and have gone down such as yellow tails, tuna, skipjacks and to the peninsula just for shooting, there are sharks, to feast upon. And over the fish plenty of wild animals not considered fly the hungry gulls, watching their oppor- game, but wary enough and giving un- tunity to dart doWn and secure a dinner. limited practice in markmanship, to call It is all a striking example of the survival for the use of your gun. Coyotes are among of the wariest. these, and racoons. 'Coon meat's not bad, The best shore shooting for small game if you want a change from fish and duck is around the inlets and bays. The water and quail. In fact, properly skinned and is covered with ducks and geese, both na- dressed, it may be made very palatable. So tive and immigrant, for even as early as you shoot a 'coon or two, just to get rid September many kinds of Northern immi- of the pests. As for jack rabbits and cot- grant birds may be found in this region. ton tails, they hop out from behind every Why they arrive so early. is more than I log you step upon. The jack rabbit's flesh can say, unless it is because they have not is dark and tastes a bit too "rabbity" for previously engaged their winter quarters, good eating, especially when desirable and want to get the pick of the places to game is so plentiful. Besides, you can be had before the winter rush begins. Any- shoot a rabbit anywhere. It is only in way, they're there, and you don't have to Lower California that you can shut your be a particularly good marksman to bring eyes, shoot, and bring down a duck, quail down a bagful of them in an hour's shoot- or a snipe. ing. The Santa Tomas River, below En- Of sea-fishing off the west coast of the senadas on the Pacific side of the Penin- peninsula, perhaps the most enjoyable is sula and which is, for many miles where fishing for yellow-tails and tuna, although it backs down into the valley from the every edible seafish to be found in any sea, not a river at all but a sluggish slough, Southern waters may be caught here. There is alive with fish, and extremely noisy with are millions of fish to the square mile in ducks and geese. If it is fowl and fish Viscaino Bay and off Cedros Island. You only that you want, you need go no fur- have only to drop a baited hook to get a ther than Santa Tomas Slough. bite. And you don't need a permit to fish However, if, though an amateur, your in the sea. What you need is plenty of sportsman soul yearns for bigger game, fishing-tackle, a good stout motor boat, with all you need to do is to fare forth toward an engine you can depend upon, a trusty the mountains, beating down your path be- pilot and a good cook. There are reefs fore you through the dense brush, and bring not far from the shore in this region, and down a fleet-footed deer, or even a bear. sometimes monstrous seas, so that perhaps Or, if your stay is to be long enough, go a good pilot, a truly "able seaman," is up into the mountains and there you may more to be desired than a good cook. Some- be lucky enough to get a shot at a giant time, however, the sea and bay are as calm Big Horn. Shooting the Big Horn is the as an inland fishpond, and then, if you sport of kings (and ex-Presidents) and, have not a good cook, you'll wish you had, except for certain inaccessible places in the for, heavy seas or smooth, the fish are Rockies, nowhere else on the continent is there. the Big Horn so plentiful as in the moun- Clams, great, delicious clams are found tains of Lower California. in the bays and inlets, but as a sport for Down the barren crags, and back into the sportsmen I don't think much of clam- 476 THE MID PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 477 fishing. With all due respect to the clam, easier to land than a shark. They don't he's no fighter. As a sport, clam-fishing fight,however. They just resist, 4nd after might be classed with hunting for eggs in they tow you around for a while, drop to a barnyard. But clams make a dainty dish, the bottom, where they stick. The tur- especially after you've been eating turtle tle is said to have seven different kinds of for two or three days. meat under his shell. This may or may In the Pacific, off the central Lower not be true * * * It all tastes like turtle California coast particularly, besides the to me, and if there are seven kinds of it, whales already mentioned, there are sharks you'd rather have any one of the seven as of goodly size — some of them ten and a steady diet than the entire assorment to twelve feet long—and possessed of wonder- select from when it's done up in a turtle. ful fighting ability. They live on fish for The turtles in the waters around Lower the most part, but are not at all averse California are said to be of particularly to adding a bit of man to their menu just delicate flavor. for the sake of variety. Of course, every Another feature of Lower California sportsman wants to fish for shark with a fishing is fishing for abalone. This is an rod, the big sort, but even the biggest rod industry that is monopolized by the Jap- would not suffice for these sharks. They anese. There is a little colony of Japanese may be caught with a large iron hook, abalone fishers on Cedros Island, a deso- baited with fish, but landing one of these late bit of land, rocky and almost barren, big man-eating sharks after he has been that would drive an American to quick in- hooked is quite another process. It is sanity, but the Japanese don't seem to mind after he is hooked that he shows his real it at all. They have their own distillery, sporting blood. Landed he will not be, but, while this adds to their material com- not while there's life in his body, so the fort, there's nothing in it to make them thing to do is shoot him and then drag really joyful, for they use it only to distill him aboard. sea-water for drinking purposes. They In the sheltered bays and inlets sea tur- dive for the abalone, using the diving ap- tles are found. They have a way of com- paratus that enables them to walk around ing up on shore, when, if you're around, for an hour or two on the bottom of the you can turn them over on their back and sea. Naturally, the man who goes down kill them just as easy as anything. But to these waters for a few days' fishing and that could hardly be called sport. The hunting doesn't do any abelone fishing, but thing to do is to spear them. Get your it is interesting to watch the Japanese do it. spear caps before starting on the trip, and Whether you want to hunt for big game then, with a cap fastened to a long pole, or small, whether your inclination is for you are ready to go turtle-hunting. It is deep-sea fishing or fishing in inland streams, wise to have a lengthy rope attached to the whether you want to capture leg-amputa- cap, for, if you're lucky enough to spear ting sharks, or feast on clams, shoot quail your turtle, he'll be off at once with the or risk an encounter with a bear, the place spear. If you have the spear fastened to for your few day's or several weeks' out- a rope you still have your turtle, but you'll ing is in Lower California, and in the have much the feeling that it is the turtle waters off its shores. Truly, Lower Cali- who has you, for those big sea turtles have fornia is the sportsman's Happy Hunting the strength of an ox, and are not much Grounds. 478 THE MID-PACIFIC Loading cane on the portable railway.
Kauai Under King Sugar
By JEAN WEST MAURY.
N KAUAI, the lovely "Garden Island is dotted with small, attractive Island," and the most northerly homes of individual planters, each in 0 of the Hawaiian group, the sov- its own setting of trees and plants. ereignty of Sugar is everywhere ac- This, more than its original forest beau- knowledged. ty—not much of which is left—makes Perhaps more than any other of the Kauai today entitled to its appellation Islands, Kauai is the home of the small of "The Garden Island." farmer. Great plantations are there, Even the cottages in the sugar camps of course, with their splendid planta- are true homes. For the most part tion homes, back of which are grouped they are built upon modern architec- a sizable town to see, the quarters of tural plans, with running water and all the managers and their employees and sorts of conveniences undreamed of not the small homes of the field and mill so many years ago. Like the hom laborers. But in addition to these places steaders' homes, these cottages are near- the almost circular coast of the Garden ly all of them surrounded by their own
479 -180 THE MID-PACIFIC
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U
• NI THE MID-PACIFIC 481 little gardens, sufficient ground being are always immaculately clean and at- allowed every tenant to grow his ovv n tractive in appearance. Furthermore, flowers and vegetables. So well are the doctors and nurses in charge have these gardens laid out, and so well are been chosen for their skill and fitness they watered, weeded and pruned that for hospital work and the care of the they give the grounds of many of the sick or disabled, and not for any "pull," camps the appearance of well kept semi- political or otherwise, they may possess. tropical parks. A small percentage of his wage or sal- The houses in the camps, the homes ary is paid into the hospital fund by of the tenant-laborers, are under the every plantation and mill employee, but most rigorous sanitary regulations. A everything in the way of medical at- sanitation inspector, employed by the tention, care and treatment at the hos- plantation company, makes regular visits pital is free to all employees alike. to the camps, and if a tenant is found Other provisions are made for the who will not keep his premises clean, health, comfort and pleasure of the and by his negligence causes his place plantation laborers. In one instance not only to become an eyesore to the when an epidemic of typhoid visited a camp, but a menace to the good health camp it was decided that the pipes of the other tenants, he is at once re- carrying the water down from the moved from the camp, and his job, mountain would be more sanitary, and whatever it is, given to another. In could be watched more carefully, if laid some of the newer plantation camps all above ground. Accordingly, at no little the cottages have from five to six rooms, expense to the, company, the under- and there will be found sometimes on a ground pipes were all removed, and the single plantation as many as five hun- water run down to the camps in pipes dred of these pretty, white cottages, laid above ground, and exposed to the each with its own bit of green growing air and sunlight. A herd of healthy about it, in all making a beautiful pic- cows is kept by one plantation com- ture of peaceful, busy village life. pany, and milk is supplied to all labor- One of the chief concerns of the plan- ers and other employees at the actual tation companies is the good health of cost of production. Ice, too, in several the entire island of Kauai. Naturally, instances, is supplied at cost. The plan- this is not altruism. It is to their tation stores or commissaries are always interest financially to keep their laborers well stocked with goods that are sold to well and able to do the full amount of the employees at reasonable prices. work required of them, and it is also Churches, open to all creeds and classes, good business to have contented work- are built and maintained wherever there men in the fields and mills. However, is a camp sufficiently large to provide the work of bringing about and main- a small congregation. The children of taining these conditions is carried on the laborers attend the public schools of in a very agreeable manner by the the territory, where, in connection with plantation authorities. The hospitals the usual school duties, they are taught where the sick and disabled employees the first requirements of American citi- are cared for are placed on sites selected zenship, and a respect for law and order. for their pleasant surroundings. They Some of the mill companies maintain are well constructed buildings, with clubs for skilled employees where meals plenty of light and clean, fresh air, and are, for the most part, equipped are served, and where a few good books with modern surgical appliances, and and the best magazines may be found. 482 THE MID-PACIFIC
The old system of herding laborers Some of the land still produces healthy together like cattle, ten and twenty cane without artificial irrigation. families in a single ill-smelling build- With a light rainfall and supplement- ing, if it ever existed on Kauai, is now al irrigation, ratoon crops spring up a thing of the past. Cleanliness is the year after year, making the cost in- plantation company's first law in the evitably less than when the cane must camps. When more than one family be planted for each new crop. The lives under one roof, the apartments are Kekaha Plantation on Kauai has fields separate, so that each family has its that were planted the last time ten own quarters, which it must keep clean years ago, and that continue to pro- and in condition to pass the health in- duce, year after year, bumper crops spector's examination when he makes that ripen in the usual time for cane- his rounds. Nearly everywhere, how- ripening—eighteen months. ever, the single cottage plan prevails. In the cultivation of the cane, powtz, The big problem on Kauai is irriga- electric, steam or gasolit-e, is used tion. While the rainfall was such that wherever possible. Great power plows in olden days it produced on this island are used on all the plantations except a vegetation that was most marked, it the individual holdings of small home- is not sufficient for the demands of the steaders, and fertilizing is done almost canefields. Extensive irrigation was not altogether by machinery. Sometimes the attempted, however, until a few years fertilizer is spread over the fields by ago, when it was thought that cane a machine especially prepared for the could be grown successfully only on purpose, and is then plowed in with the level plains and in the lowlands. the steam plows before the cane is Now, with the present system of irriga- planted. Then, when the cane is about tion, cane is seen growing lustily six weeks old, more fertilizer is added twelve hundred feet above sea level. by having it first dissolved in the irri- Big reservoirs, and intake lakes to con- gating water, and applied with the irri- serve the water, with irrigation ditches gation. Centrifugal pumps force water that are marvels of engineering skill, to the higher levels, sometimes to the have brought thousands of acres under extent of 73,000,000 gallons a day. cultivation that were hitherto considered Both in the fields and at the mills, impossible for sugar production. Of every appliance whose use modern sci- these remarkable ditches, the first to be ence has shown to be advantageous in constructed was the Hanapepe ditch, the growth, production and perfection which gave the plantation that built it of sugar is in use on Kauai. One of a water supply of 20,000,000 gallons a the plantations has a hilling-up plow day. Later, the same plantation, which that is , manufactured by the company has the name of being one of the most on its own premises in Kauai. Planta- progressive sugar plantations in the tions all over Hawaii are beginning to world, built the Olokele ditch, with a use this "made in Hawaii" plow. Its water supply of 40,000,000 gallons a adjustable sides make it a very prac- day, just double the amount supplied by ticable implement for cultivating cane the Hanapepe ditch. The water is con- on stony ground, such as is found on served in huge reservoirs that hold, at the mountain sides, and for weeding all times, a hundred and twenty million between the rows of stools without in- gallons of surplus water for emergency jury to the young plants. Most of the uses. The tunnelling for both these cane from the hillsides is flumed to the ditches is cemented nearly all the way. mills, except in cases where the mill is THE MID-PACIFIC 483 higher than the canefields. Then the from that point. A plantation company plantation company's own system of rail- at Kealia has constructed, at its own ways brings the cane in to be ground. expense, a breakwater in the little bay From the cars, in most cases, the cane in front of its mill, which, when fin- is unloaded by machinery, but one of ished, will make it possible to transfer the mills still follows the old practice the sugar direct from the mill to small of unloading by hand. The railways boats in the bay. It will also provide usually consist of from sixteen to fifty a landing for small craft other than miles of permanent track, with several sugar boats. miles of portable track. The locomo- Summed up, the sugar situation on tives are principally steam. Kauai is most satisfactory from every Some of the homesteaders still 'use standpoint, with the single exception of oxen to haul their cane to the mills. the uneasiness felt by the planters in These slow-going beasts, drawing a connection with the proposed "free wagon piled high with cane, and refus- sugar." Without the protective tariff ing to change their patient, even tread on sugar, and with the return of normal however urgently admonished by their trade conditions throughout the world, driver, add a touch of picturesqueness thousands and thousands of acres now that fits well into the Kauaian picture in cane on Kauai would have to be of rural life. Seen from the rear the dropped, as the tremendous cost of irri- driver, seated a-top his load of cane, gating these lands would make their looks like nothing but a hat and a cultivation most unprofitable were the pair of arms. price of sugar reduced. This would The grinding season on Kauai takes mean that about half of Kauai's popu- up from eight to ten months of the lation would be thrown out of employ- year. The sugar mills are of the roller ment. However, as the outlook for the type, and some of the larger mills are old tariff grows more and more hope- equipped with as many as ten huge ful, planters and employes alike are muti-tubular boilers, of from 175 to 250 encouraged, and the work of increasing horsepower each. A sugar conveyor the sugar acreage, and improving the built by the engineer of one of the mills, quality of sugar goes steadily on. And takes the sugar, when sacked, direct to with it goes the continued improvement the cars, thus saving much time and of the lovely Island of Kauai. Every- labor over having this work done by where trees are being planted on barren hand. Some of the mills make their hillsides, along roads, and around homes own sugar bags, all the work being and camps. Gardens are being laid out, done by machinery. new homes are being built, new public From some of the plantation land- buildings erected, and an air of general ings the sugar is shipped direct to the prosperity and satisfaction pervades the mainland in ocean-going vessels ; from Garden Island where individual freedom others it is sent first to Honolulu, in is nourished, cleanliness and beauty are Inter-Island steamers, and reshipped worshipped, and Sugar is King. 484 THE MID-PACIFIC
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The Maoris are perhaps the most intelligent of all Polynesians, but are superstitious in the extreme. In the following pages we are told of strange happenings illustrating some peculiar beliefs of the people. A Maori maid.
■ • A Night of Witchery A Strange Tale of New Zealand's Natives.
By T. PAAKA.
HOUGH a born New Zealander, And when the Colonel found that I had lived only in the cities it was necessary for him to ride T of the land and knew but little through this district, and expressed a of the native Maoris. It was therefore wish that I should accompany him, I with interest that I learned much re- was indeed gratified at the thought of garding native life and character from seeing, in their most secluded haunts, Colonel Matthews, an old friend of my the people of whose history and legends father's, at whose homestead I was the old Colonel had told me so many spending a Christmas. The Colonel's strange tales. "run" was a far-back one indeed, upon During my first day's ride, our talk the borders of that district which is the was all of the blood-tales of the past heart of Maoriland, the Urewera Coun- which had been enacted there ; and of try, where even today the Pakeha (white the wonder-powers of the Tohungas man) is little known. (priests) at whose breath the dry shrub
485 486 THE MID-PACIFIC grew again, and at whose incantations a great golden shuttle into the dark the strongest warriors had become but loom of the night, leaving for a brief the "food of the lizard." The Colonel while a few stray threads of yellow had served through the Maori War, and light to be severed by the rising mists had learned much from the natives of and shadows. Lighting my pipe to the strange occult powers possessed by complete my enjoyment, I watched the their ancestors in the days of savagery, blue shadows deepen to black. I but which now, alas ! had passed from watched the last bird wing its way to them. its home-tree, and then there came that Towards evening the Colonel inter- moment when the ears seem to tingle rupted, at its most interesting point, the with the very intensity of silence. Al- weird tale of mesmeric magic with most with a shudder I realized our utter which he had beguiled the last few loneliness there in the haunts of old-time miles of our long day's ride, by abruptly mystery and magic. drawing rein and declaring the spot at How long I lay pondering thus I which we had arrived to be a most know not, but at last, when it was al- suitable one for our night's camp. We most really dark, I turned suddenly set about to establish ourselves and soon and unaccountably to see if the Colonel our little white tent gleamed against were coming, when to my instant hor- the green gloom of the bush trees be- ror I realized that someone sat in the hind it, and our cheery fire sent its blue darkness opposite me, gazing at me curling tendrils far up among the tree- with steady persistence. I saw at once tops. that she was old by the faint gleam "Just take the two buckets down to where the light caught her short white the creek, will you, and I'll follow short- hair, and beneath its whiteness her ly with the horses," said the Colonel brown scarred face looked more fear- some time later, giving a final tap to fully sinister. She sat upon the ground the last tent peg. in that squatting attitude which native So I sauntered down the thin uncer- women so easily assume, her horny bare tain track which wound through the feet showing beneath her loose cotton tangle of undergrowth beneath the trees skirt, her wrinkled old hands clasped to where, in a crease in the hillside, about her knees. She was smoking an the little stream tinkled along its bush- old clay pipe, and I noticed the heavily bound byway, and having filled the buck- tattooed mouth and chin, and the cruel ets I began the strenuous ascent up the droop of the blackened lips, and I knew steep hill track to where we had pitched that in the far-gone days of her youth our tent. Pausing half-way for breath, they had rejoiced over human flesh. I was so enchanted by the fair beauty But I could not shake from me a grow- of the scene which lay spread before ing horror of the large gazing eyes. I me, that I allowed myself to sink back really felt as though they had been gaz- into the soft depths of a springy manuka ing at me for years without cessation. bush, and resolved to wait there for I seemed to know them—yet not as well the Colonel. as they knew me. I felt that those eyes We were in the very heart of the possessed me. bush, and as far around as I could see All this time the old hag merely con- lay ridges and cross ridges of shaggy tinued to sit, and smoke, and stare, her bush-coated hills, the distant ones al- only movement being to open her lips ready assuming that strange blueness that the smoke might jerk forth, but the which means the death of day. Even sense of her presence filled me with a as I watched, the sun slipped away like wild horror, a strong shrinking from THE MID-PACIFIC 487
Modern Maoris in the gum-fields. that indescribable personality which can Again no actual reply, though I knew only be termed "native," and I also had with the utmost certainty that she fully a strange and unaccountable feeling agreed with this remark. This time I that she was, as it were, a presence from felt disconcerted at receiving no reply, the past, bringing from it all that was and I began to wonder if the old hag not with us now. were really the possessor of some I was annoyed with myself for thus strange occult power such as the Colonel allowing my imagination to get the bet- had been telling me of. It then oc- ter of me, but the unexpectedness of curred to me that she had never for a her presence, and the complete silence second removed her gaze from me, and with which she had come, had disarmed again shrinking from the unnatural per- me for the moment. sistence of her look, and scarce know- "Tena koe" (This to you—good day) ing what to do next, I turned my at- I said with an assumption of happy tention to my pipe. Then I discovered familiarity which I did not feel. that at every puff which I permitted to She made no reply whatever, not pass from my lips, a similar one was even a movement, and yet I had a emitted by hers, arm filled with a sense strong knowledge of response on her of obstinacy I found myself endeavor- part. I felt that she in turn greeted ing to dodge her, so to speak. But in me, though with resentment. I con- vain ! Puffed I slowly, or puffed I tinued. quickly, her movements were identical "Kapai to torori, eh ?" (Good the with mine, while so still was the air pipe, eh ?) that the curling fumes from our pipes 488 THE MID-PACIFIC floated across the track between, and From this she appeared to be eagerly meeting half-way, swept together and gathering something in the hollow of floated up into the darkness of the tall her hands, which, however, always re- pines above. mained empty. She then pressed her At last to avoid being overcome again hands feverishly to her bosom for a with the fear which had at first beset second, before she was obliged to me, I determined to rise and return to pounce forward to catch my next foot- the Colonel. On looking up at this step. point I was surprised, and at the same The idea of gathering up a man's time relieved, to find that the old hag footsteps behind him would have ap- was already standing, as though with a peared to me only ridiculous had I not pre-knowledge of my intention, though remembered with fear the accounts I had not been conscious of the move- which Colonel Matthews had given me ment on her part. Involuntarily I rose of the doings of the ancient Maori also. Then she spoke for the first time. magicians or Tohungas of the past. It "Will the pakeha come ?" There was was possible, I remembered, that a per- a harshness and force in the voice son's hau or "essence," that which con- which made the question a command, trolled his existence, could be gathered and I found myself leading the way from a spot immediately he left it, and along the track, though with the con- could be made use of by the Tohunga tradictory certainty that though she for any purpose he wished. My horror walked behind me, yet I was in reality at the thought cannot be described, for following her. She led me thus down I knew that once another possessed a the track beneath the pines to the creek person's hau, that other had complete where I had filled my buckets, and from control of his actions, his emotions— thence we followed a faint trail through even his life. the shrub-growth for a long and in- At this time I began to experience terminable way. And during all the another sensation which caused me time of our going I suffered a continu- much alarm, for I feared that owing to al and growing apprehension of the the incantations and strange actions of whole occurrence, till at last my feel- the old woman behind me, I was losing ings reached a pitch of intensity which my senses. It seemed that though I was almost unbearable. No word had made the action of walking forward, yet been spoken ; I had not even turned every step seemed to take me backward. once to see if the old woman followed— The ever-changing scene through which I knew that she was there, for I felt we were rapidly passing moved from that she was leading me from behind. behind us forward ; the very road below It was then, and while we were passing me was quickly passing beneath my feet, round the outskirts of a swamp, that forward, and I could watch the ever- I heard a strange guttural sound at my growing trail of my own footsteps heels, as though a dog were snarling stretch out before me. It seemed to and about to bite. Turning hastily I my affrighted imagination that I was was horrified to see that the old hag walking back through time, that the was springing after me at every step change in the scenes about me were in a crouching position, and that the the change of time, not the change of guttural noise was her low, muttered in- space and movement ; that, in fact, I cantations. Immediately each foot quit- was walking back through the years. ted the ground behind me, she pounced I knew that this was not so, yet I could upon the spot, and the earth being very not cast the conviction from me. soft a deep impression was always left. Next a strange tingling sensation in THE MID-PACIFIC 489 the back of my head absorbed my anxi- upon his appearance the place was filled ous attention, and I felt at the same with uproar, all gathered round him time a growing sense of utter weakness and yelled wildly. Then he stooped to which rapidly began to overwhelm me. the ground for a few minutes, but I In reviewing the whole occurrence, was unable to see what was going on I have often wondered why I did not on account of the many gathered round endeavor to break away. There is little him. There was a fearful silence possibility of my having been able to broken only by the sound of scraping in do so, for I was completely under the the earth, then suddenly, with one great power of the old mesmerist. shout, they all moved back and placed Almost when I felt I should lose con- themselves round the edge of the en- sciousness for want of strength, we closure. There in the ground I saw arrived at a small pa, or native village. the stick standing upright, and by the Tottering with sheer weakness I al- pale light of the rising moon I saw lowed myself to drop into a dark cor- that the heavy knob on top was a man's ner, where, helpless, I lay unnoticed head! The shock of this discovery al- during the awful scene which followed. most overpowered me in my state of The village was much stirred over extreme weakness. some matter with which the old hag The face bore a thick moustache, and seemed to be most concerned, but hav- was heavily tattooed all over, while to ing very little familiarity with the lan- the scalp were fastened two huia feath- guage, I was unable to glean anything ers denoting the warrior to be of high of the cause of their excitement. All blood. The lower jaw had dropped, the inhabitants were collected in the and the eye-lids had been cut away so open space before their meeting-house, that the glazed eyes caught the gleam restlessly moving to and fro, or excited- of the moonlight, and shone with a va- ly talking in groups. All were dressed cant lustre. It was a shocking sight. in feather mats of every color. Even Then the assembled company of na- the men wore only mats. I was sur- tives waited, silently. At last the native prised to notice now that the old hag woman who had captured me, slowly wore only a kiwi mat. Indeed she rose to her feet; and keeping her eyes seemed strangely changed. Her hair, fixed upon the horrible object, advanced no longer white, streamed over her stealthily towards it. When within a shoulders into a wealth of oily black- short distance she emitted a sudden ness, and her face was no longer snarl, and pounced at the thing with a wrinkled, but full and round ; though contortion of defiance. Being careful in spite of this she looked no less ter- not to actually touch it, she continued rifying and repulsive. to dance and gesticulate with the ut- In the dark doorways of many of most frenzy, lolling her tongue and roll- the whares (houses) I could discern ing her eyes in a hideous fashion. Her the fierce outlines of more natives, mat slipped from her shoulders, expos- squatting as though in anticipation of ing her hanging .breasts and long brown some spectacle to be witnessed. As I arms. Then after a time her movements looked, a tall, fierce warrior rushed sud- became less frantic, and at last changed denly from the dark interior of one of into a soft graceful swaying movement. the whares, shouting and grimacing Passing both hands lightly down the and waving about his head what ap- surface of her chest, she then curved peared to be a thick stick with a very them outward towards the object with large knob at one end. Immediately the regular insinuating movement of a 490 THE MID-PACIFIC mesmeric pass, keeping her eyes all the the treatment given to that head. Should time upon the dead face before her. the operator allow it to pass out of When this had been persisted in for her control, then I knew I should be some time, a change began to grow into as dead as if my head were severed the face ; the muscles loosened, the skin from my body. With fearful anxiety softened, and the death-pallor changed I watched the flow of those drops of into the normal flesh hue. All this blood which meant the beats of my time, though seemingly unable to move, fainting heart. Sometimes there were I was becoming intensely excited, especi- long, long intervals between them, when ally when the woman began to mutter I thought my end had come, but the what I recognized as the same incanta- very realization stirred my fear and set tion which she had muttered at my my poor heart beating viciously, upon heels. I felt sick with fear and dread which the blood would flow in a quick of I knew not what, and when a gush thick stream. The awful suffocation of blood dropped from the severed neck of those minutes will haunt me through and streamed down the stick to the all my life. ground, I almost fainted with the fierce palpitation which shook my heart. Then, without changing her posture With every sign of growing life in in the slightest, the woman said some- the stark object before her, the woman thing which seemed to be a question, quicKened her movements, and began to in a soft persuasive tone. Instead of gesticulate and grimace. Then slowly replying as I had expected it to do, the the thing's jaw closed, and it raised its thing slowly turned its face in my eyes to her face, when with a final direction, and fixed its awful eyes upon shout she threw both her arms above me. Strangely, it seemed to me that her head, as though to command its full- the features were familiar to me. Where est attention, and stood thus motionless before had I seen it, where, where? and silent for many seconds, which I was too weak and helpless to think. seemed to me to be eternities within And yet the more I looked the more eternities. What I suffered in those familiar became every line of that gaz- moments I can never describe or ex- ing face, and the beseeching look in the plain. It was living death. motionless eyes made me feel that I With my eyes fastened to that fear- was deserting a friend in not rescuing ful face and its upturned waiting eyes, it. I tried to think if I had ever known I counted the drops of blood which con- the person of that face, but I knew I tinued to fall, now quickly, now slowly, had not, for it was the face of a Maori from its neck, and every drop which fell warrior, heavily tattooed on nose, cheek, fell at a beat of my heart, just as the chin, and brow, and until that night I old woman had puffed smoke to every had never had aught to do with any puff which had passed from my own Maori. Yet seeking to solve the mys- lips. Then I realized what had been tery of the strange familiarity which done. The wild witch-priestess had grew more potent with every passing performed the difficult feat of kapukapu moment I found myself tracing the ever tutata, or "snatching whilst fresh." My curling, ever curving lines of the pat- hau had been gathered from my heels, tern of the tattoo, and as I did so my and was now cast temporarily into this own face seemed to tingle with a sting- the head of some dead enemy in order. ing prickliness wherever my eye trav- that certain information might be ob- elled over the face on the stick, so that tained, and my life I felt hung upon when I had followed out every line my THE MID-PACIFIC 491 face stung all over to the pattern of for the wild clamor of voices, some that tattoo. Then it was that the awful began to take notice of myself, who truth flashed upon me, and I knew the throughout all this time had lain as un- mystery of that fearful likeness. That heeded as a carcass. Finally, the old which I was recognizing upon the end witch turned to me with a fierce ques- of the stick, was my own face! tion, and when I was unable to reply At the moment that this knowledge through not comprehending her words, came to me I almost sank into uncon- she rushed at me and commenced to sciousness had not the witch-priestess, shake me violently. who all this time had waited with' her "Come along now, come along now,' hands in the air, repeated her question she cried in English, "get up." in a more peremptory tone ; and al- But I was powerless to move, for all though she regarded me not, but stir my limbs were as stiff as boards and looked at the head before her, yet I beyond my control, and I felt suddenly knew that this time she spoke to me, very, very cold. and although I could not understand "Can't you even shut your mouth, what she said, for she spoke in Maori, then ?" continued the woman in clearer yet I struggled to make some reply. tones. But I found I could not, for my lower My parched tongue refused any re- jaw had dropped, and was stiff as with ply. the stiffness of death. * * * * * The third time the question was "If you were not so cold I might spoken it was shouted loudly, and with throw one of these buckets of water a frantic wave of the hands as if to over you," continued my companion ; prohibit further delay. Quickly the "come along, old chap ; let me help head turned from me, and rested its you back to camp." gaze upon the face of the woman, and It was a pannikin of hot whiskey that then in the silence which followed it did me most service after that, and spoke in a low, weak voice. What it enabled me in time to give the Colonel said was unintelligible to me, but a a feeble account of my awful tale, every murmur of surprise ran round the rows detail of which was still vividly before of waiting figures squatting around in me. But he merely laughed good- the moonlight. naturedly, and dosed me with more The woman asked another question ; whiskey, which sent me fast asleep till the head replied ; then again another the following morning. question in louder tones, and the head Over our breakfast the old man told replied in the same dull, weak voice me how he had missed me, and for which I now knew to be my own ; and some three hours had hunted and "coo- all the time I burned with a thousand eed" persistently, and had at last wild emotions which were new to me. stumbled across me lying cold, and ap- parently dead, with my mouth wide The questions and answers contin- open, in a manuka bush by the side of ued, and the excitement of the woman a little by-track which I had evidently grew, and at last even those sitting mistaken for the main path back to around were constrained to take part, camp. calling out and expostulating fiercely. But when in the light of day I per- Then at last, when the general excite- sisted in the veracity of my tale, the ment had grown to such a pitch that Colonel insisted that it was a dream, the dialogue could not be distinguished and perhaps it was. I know not. 492 THE MID-PACIFIC
■ ■ ■
The Peak Tramway, Hongkong, which affords one of the wonder rides of the world. The British have made the Island of Victoria (Hongkong) a veritable outdoor paradise. Hongkong is solidly built.
Hongkong, an Outdoor Paradise
FROM THE EDITOR'S DIARY.
HAD always thought of Hong- perfume. There are fonts, and terraces, kong, judging from the` literature and hills, and birds and children, quaint- I I had read, as an ordinary squal- ly dressed in Chinese style, and every- lid, dirty Chinese city, with rude shacks, thing that is attractive. rat-infested homes, some sort of a har- When we left the garden we wander- bor, with perhaps a few native "junks" ed along the side of the mountain in it, in fact I had conjured up a very among villas more spacious and as unbeautiful picture. I never realized aristocratic in their architecture as those how mistaken I had always been until in Naples. In fact there is much that on reminds one of Naples in Hongkong, Tuesday, March 25, 1914. save that Hongkong, even in the Chi- Joe and I set out afoot to see the city nese quarters is infinitely cleaner and and island. First, we visited the botani- more picturesque ; although the setting cal gardens, which are infinitely more is not so beautiful. As we walked beautiful than any we have seen except along the shady road, a lady and gen- those in Melbourne. They are filled with tleman, carried by four Chinese "boys" blossoming flowers that give delicious in white costume, trotting along in their
493 494 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 495
sedan chairs, passed us. Joe, however, runs about a mile up the Peak and was interested in the view below. There lands you at the hotel that overlooks was the great Roman Catholic cathedral the beautiful harbor of Hongkong and that we could look down upon, and the the delectable sea of islands on every boys playing cricket on the terrace op- side of the Peak. Somehow the moun- posite it, and far below the business tains about us reminded me of those section and the beautiful harbor beyond behind and about Wellington, but Well- with Kowloon in the distance, and all ington has not the wonderful background the shipping spread out on the beau- that Hongkong has been divinely pro- tiful blue waters. vided with. Forever will live in my We wandered on and reluctantly zig- memory the recollections of the hills, zagged down the wonderful mountain peaks, islands, the harbor, rocks, and side amid the bower-bedecked villas. gardens and villas, and forests and far It was like a bit of fairyland. away hills rising from the ocean, that There is one thing, however, that are to be seen from Hongkong's Peak. disappointed me about Hongkong, and As we wandered up along the cement- that is the promotion literature that is ed roadways that will last forever, we sent out. It is full of excuses, and stopped now and then to enjoy some gloomy, when it should be radiant with particularly attractive view. Now it was joy and promise, for there are few cities the shipping in the greatest harbor in in the world more attractive than Hong- the world, now it was a lawn far below kong and its surroundings. It is the in which white butterflies flitted back ideal place for the tourist who loves and forth — only the white butterflies to walk. were girls playing tennis ; then it was We soon came to the Chinese section thousands of sampans in the harbor, —a riot of noise, industry and color, and now it was the great level stretch- and great signs that seem to drop like ing area of the roofs of the Chinese scrolls from the heavens, all to bewilder quarters, where 400,000 human beings the brain and confuse the eye. There existed, for the people who live about were stone steps that led seemingly a Hongkong have their dwellings on the mile down, but we wandered among the hills ; and in all that vast area of homes Chinese shops where we saw them with their dead level roofs, the colonial making their fish-skin lanterns and secretary told us there was not a build- pounding brass. We came at last to ing that was not rat proof, and yet at the great open market and the filthy this moment there are a hundred people temple, and on to the Bund where we with plague in that area, to say nothing walked by the many steamers that go ' of several cases of smallpox and a up the West River to Canton and to few of cholera. Macao. Some of these steamers were The British are thorough. The filthy in the extreme and ramshackle— buildings are more like Italian villas. they were the Chinese steamers. Some We clambered to the top of the Peak, were sleek and fine looking—these and from a pergola there, owned by were the French and English steamers. one of the rich dwellers, we could gaze The next day, March 26. out upon a view that in every direction At four o'clock in the afternoon we is seldom to be equalled in the world. started on a trip up the Peak, and it We took a short cut down from the was a really memorable event. There Peak, and then we started the winding is a cable tram line ascending it roadway down through the forests, and which seems almost perpendicular. It out among the villas. We met sweat- 496 THE MID-PACIFIC ing, perspiring coolies ascending with then down through a forest of tree chairs on their shoulders, in which sat ferns as high almost as coconut palms. the white man, but we ran down and Then we came to the great busy Chi- down, now in thick forests and now nese city again, and it was with longing taking a short cut by a trail so steep that we looked back at the beautiful that we nearly fell forward. At one gullies and, valleys and mountains be- point we passed a forestry trail, and a hind us. We longed to know the peo- notice that "Users would do so at their ple who lived in those wonderful villas own risk." The notice also stated that —palaces. Lower Hongkong seemed that particular trail was 111/2 miles tame after we had come down from the long. What a wonderful country could land of the clouds, where we had felt a be made of this trampers' paradise—the little chilly in our white suits. Island of Hongkong. Tomorrow we expect to run up to We ran on down to the Catholic cathedral which is built on a plateau Canton so shall be busy until late to- cut into the side of the mountain, and night getting off our mail.
HONGKONG b 4.HANGHAA
.4 typical business building. ADVERTISING SECTION
The Honolulu Daily Press
Newest home of the oldest newspaper of the Pacific. Offices and print shop of the Pacific Commercial Advertiser, founded 1856, at 217 South King Street, Honolulu, T. H.--The morning newspaper.
ouutittu 'tar-ilutirtitt 2.::on3 1.1,1C1, Pi VI, ;171.ALV:Artter. PACIES—HUNOLULII. TEIOUTO. 10, SVEDNES10.11. St 1“ PAO. crixis. WILSON FORCING HUERTA TO MOVE NEW HOTEL George R. Carter DOLTOR PRATE !Central Figures In The LIND, IN MEXICO CITY, New President of PLANNED IN Commerce Chamber MAY BE MINUS _ Present Mexican Crisis IS OPTIMISTIC NOW FOR HONOLULU HIS POSITION' PEACE BETWEEN COUNTRIES
Wol.Fininded Report States Pull Reply From Hnerta Awaited in That W. G. insufsWaikiki Atal Mac. Waehinaton Before Further Develop- • Properly Is Site Health Appointment meats—Vote of Confides. in .0. HERTSCHE WILL GO NEW CHIEF EXECUTIVE President Blocked in Home TO MAINLAND ON DETAILS MAY MAKE SELECTION Carmen Manager o 1 Local Lam May Compel Incumbent to Houses Admits He Has Plan Vacate Office Within the to Cantor Tourists Next Few Hours
tr"
Diggs Case Goes to Jury; Wrong, Not Crime, Admitted
C. Atherton Again le Now noted for the Vice. Presidency
Ian Inirt m A IIINVERIDN TO MAIL Congressman Harrison Named Philippine Governor-General MAKE PLATFORM DELAY DUE TO MAY BE NEEDED BAD JBOBAIF,NT . . The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Hawaii's evening newspaper with the largest circulation of any periodical in the Territory. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC
Honolulu from the Trolley Car
Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company. You may take the electric tram as you beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki for five cents ride for hours—if you wish on the heights behind Diamond Head, to take transfers—to almost every part which is now a great fortress ; in fact, of this wondrously beautiful city and its the entire day may be spent with profit suburbs. on the car lines. At Waikiki often may There appeared in the Mid-Pacific be seen from the cars men and boys dis- Magazine for January, 1915, an article porting themselves on their surfboards, telling of a hundred sights to be seen as they come in standing before the from the street cars. waves on these little bits of wood. At one end of the King street car line The cars in Honolulu are all open, for is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, the temperature never goes below 68 from which may be seen the cane lands and degrees, nor does it rise above 85 de- rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in grees, and there is always a gentle trade the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter wind stirring. is the Bishop Museum, having the most re- When Honolulu was ready for her markable Polynesian collection in the world. electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Co. completed the most At the other end of the line is Kapiolani perfect system of its kind in the world, Park, a beautiful tropical garden, in which and it is always a delight to ride smooth- is located the famous aquarium of Hawai- ly over its lines. ian fishes, rivaled only by the aquarium in It is but twenty minutes by car to Naples. Waikiki beach and but five minutes Transfers are given to branch lines longer, by the same car, to the wonderful penetrating several of the wonderfully aquarium in Kapiolani Park. THE MID-PACIFIC 3
OAHU ArnouStatde Square Mks 599, HONOLULU N01■11/3/41, 501001. health of Island 46 Mrie5 scA 00 MILLS B,eadd of Island 25 Mlles 11ht.5rbr,t■ontirlfcil144,o313 FE! PREL°Ooll Affil CODYFOOHTED BY Population over 60,000 Rope i I.L.3 T. POPE, .er Thilance how:641,10mA 2)00 Milts Dolan` from Japan 3fioo Miles Ltance toonill4sronnu44iphfiles I Govermont Rand around Island Fins-dais Raiira44 5Listenn 1_545.0- Crop for i901.1&15 Tonut,
KAZIECrtir FAY
BARD C(5 PT
The Island of Oahu, more than half the size of Rhode Island, may be motored around in a day with stops at Coral Gardens, Waiahole Tavern, Hauula Hotel, Haleiwa and the Wahiawa Hotel. There are no more delightful outings resort is on high land near the sea, and in the world than those from Honolulu to but forty minutes' walk from Waiahole the "Round Oahu" resorts. Automobiles Tunnel and the trail over the mountains. and auto-busses make daily trips to and There is a swimming pool on the grounds from the delightful hotels on the seashore of the Waiahole Tavern, phone 0.554. and in the mountains. On Sundays the big busses of the Island Thirty-one miles from Honolulu, nes- Sightseeing Company leave from the Pan- tled at the foot of the mountains, but on Pacific corner, Fort and Merchant Streets, the sea, is Hauula Hotel, rates $3.00 a for round-the-island trips and runs to the day; chicken dinner at midday, $1.25. hotel resorts of Oahu. These busses may Less than three miles away are the Sacred also be engaged at very reasonable rates for Falls of Kaliuwaa Canyon. The hotel is parties of from 20 to 30 passengers. The also on the line of the railway ; the usual Trail and Mountain Club, phone is 2989, stopping place at lunch time of the round- c,r a call at the Pan-Pacific Club rooms, cor- the-island parties. Phone White 0782. ner Fort and Merchant streets, phone con- Thirty miles from Honolulu by auto, nection with all the round-the-island hotels. fifty-six miles by rail, is the Haleiwa Hotel, Going around the island, over the Pali, $3.50 a day, lunch $1.00. Phone Blue 0932. just twelve miles or an hour from Hono- lulu is Kaneohe Bay and Coral Gardens In the center of the pineapple district, Hotel, $3.00 a day, phone Blue 612. Noon between two mountain ranges and 1000 dinner, $1.00. Trip in glass-bottom boat feet above the sea is the Wahiawa Hotel, to the wonderful Coral Gardens, 50 cents. twenty miles from Honolulu, an hour's Rates at the Coral Garden per week, run over good roads. Good swimming and $17.50 with splendid fishing and swim- wonderful bass fishing, with ideal possible ming as well as good living. tramps in the mountains. Rates $2.50 a Six miles further is Waiahole Tavern, day, $15.00 a week, lunches 50 cents. $3.00 a day; lunches, 75 cents. This ideal Phone Blue 0393. 4 THE MID-PACIFIC I Among the Hawaiian Islands Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company.
HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Scale 4705 = 2oopoo Atra Cesv.k0.4- /io,row ftex.rAc1/2., Cruvxma*e By NE NeArAmq - • -- Apv / , 1,03. .5G-Oie in /We&
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The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium. STEAMSHIP SERVICE. THE KAUAI CANYONS From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, At 5:15 P. M. every Tuesday there is to and from the Island of Maui, there is a large boat (S. S. "Kinau") leaving almost daily service, either by way of Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, windward side, at Lahaina, there being at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor- splendid auto services between the two. tunity for a visit to the famous canyons Twice a week there are sailings from of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare Honolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii. each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a Communication between the islands of smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every Hawaii is maintained by the splendid and Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. 5 P. M. THE HALEAKALA TRIP. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. The flagship of the Inter-Island fleet Mondays and Fridays there is a boat leaves Honolulu every Wednesday and leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, 5:00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, from whence a visit to Kilauea is made, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului and from whence a tour of the largest of on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. Fare the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail and for Honolulu . This is the most conven- auto to volcano, about $5.00 return ; rates ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the at Volcano House, about $6 a day. famous Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon- The main offices of the Inter-Island day boat from Honolulu touches at many Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Maui ports. Street, Honolulu ; phone No. 4941. THE MID-PACIFIC 5
Map by courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd.
OLLIal NORMAL 5(;H001.
D AND COP' aJIHT
ALA4,
MAUI Area in Starete Square Files 728 Length 48MMle t. Breadth 3o 'vides Htghest Eletiattort ta034 Feet Largest Ext t cat Crater trt the Wortti Popiction over 4,5,000 aslant:a from Honatt.ttu. 7. Elites Eleven 6....tar Plantatta, &get r
The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., The Home Insurance Co. of New York, (known by everyone as "A. & B.") is The New Zealand Insurance Co., looked upon as one of the most progressive General A. F. & L. Assurance Corpor- American corporations in Hawaii. ation, Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents German Alliance Insurance Association, for the largest sugar plantation of the Ha- Switzerland Marine Insurance Co., Ltd. waiian Islands and second largest in the The offices of this large and progressive world, namely, the Hawaiian Commercial firm, all of whom are staunch supporters of and Sugar Company at Puunene, Maui. the Pan-Pacific and other movements which They are also agents for many other plan- are for the good of Hawaii, are as follows: tations and concerns of the Islands, among J. P. Cooke President which are the Haiku Sugar Company, Paia W. M. Alexander First Vice-Pres. Plantation, Maui Agricultural Company, J. R. Galt Hawaiian Sugar Company, McBryde Sugar Second Vice-Pres. Company, Ltd., Kahului Railroad Com- W. 0. Smith Third Vice-Prey. pany, Kauai Railroad Company, Ltd., John Waterhouse Treasurer IJonolua Ranch. John Guild Secretary This firm ships a larger proportion of the With H. A. Baldwin, F. C. Atherton, A. total sugar crop of the Hawaiian Islands L. Castle and C. R. Hemenway as addi- than any other agency. tional directors. In addition to their extensive sugar plan- Besides the home office in the Stangen- tations, they are also agents for the follow- wald Building, Honolulu, Alexander & ing well-known and strong insurance com- Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices in panies: Seattle, in the Melhorn Building; in New Springfield Fire & Marine Ins. Co., York at 82 Wall St., and in the Alaska American Central Insurance Co., Commercial Building, San Francisco. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents for the American-Hawaiian, and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines. THE MID-PACIFIC 7
••••••■■■■■•■•■•••■■■•••■•••■■•■•■•■■•■•■■•■••■■■■■■■••■ The Island of Hawaii
Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.
The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware.
The soil of Hawaii is of a character that fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia requires fertilization to a great extent. from England, nitrates from Chile, and When one speaks of the fertilizer business potash salts from Germany, while tons of of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano sulphur are brought direct from Japan to and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the the works. It costs, ordinarily, fifty dollars sugar and pineapple plantations are sup- an acre to fertilize pineapple lands, unless it plied by this company. A very large con- is the fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and cern today, the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the ex- Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry pense is cut in half. If you need fertilizer which followed the discovery of rich guano for your garden or your plantation, call up deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits Phone No. 1585, and the Pacific Fertilizer have been so depleted that the company now and Guano Co. will gladly advise you, mak- secures its supply from other Pacific islands, ing a chemical analysis of the soil, if neces- and at the same time it is a large importer sary, and mixing the fertilizer in accord of other articles used in the manufacture of with the demands of the soil. 8 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Island of Kauai
i.•■••••••••■•••• TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa- latial ocean greyhound service between San Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, PA(/RC have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & YOKOHAMA Cooke, Ltd.
::14A r.fr1iit4*015' This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- NGHOHG #961 M lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono- lulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company. The adjoining of- fices are used by the firm for their busi- ness as sugar factors and insurance agents. Phone 1251. SYDNEY Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for loCevb.On many of the plantations throughout Ha- , waii, and here may be secured much varied Na■Walien 0. -- Islands information. Here also the tourist may se- 21 cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam- phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean. Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd.
r
HOW:Utit NORMAL StH501 SOAlf Of filLt5
NA UA I A le Siuore Maas 7
Elevation S Divatioa from 98 tid., Population evor r4.4 4111Nin large Nan ,t.00s 5,,,or crap for .r4o7. 740E, toss THE MID-PACIFIC 9
THE LIGHTING OF HONOLULU. In Honolulu the outlying districts are rapidly becoming connected with the gas system of mains. The modern gas mantles now make lighting by gas the most bril- liant and satisfying of all methods; and this at a minimum cost. In fact, so cheap is gas in Honolulu that it is used very ex- tensively for cooking. The cost averages a dollar for a thousand feet. The Honolulu Gas Company maintains extensive exhibition rooms at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets, where the cars of two sections pass the doors, and where every new appliance in gas fixtures for lighting or cooking purposes may be studied, or members of the office force will explain their advantages. The latest gas appliance invention does the family washing automatically and should be seen at the Alakea Street exhibition rooms. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC
THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. Honolulu still relies for building ma- terial on the mainland. For many years the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today this firm occupies its own spacious block on King Street, where every necessity need- ed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guarantees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and com- pleted on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii ; so it is that one firm 111111111Uli MX* undertakes to supply material from the breaking of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hardware department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment. THE MID-PACIFIC 11
Electric Lighting in Honolulu
The general offices on King Street.
THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC CO. dred horse power, with another two hun- dred and fifty horse power to the Federal In Honolulu electricity costs ten cents Wireless Station fifteen miles distant, be- per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts sides current for lighting all private resi- per month per lamp, and six cents dences in Honolulu, as well as for operat- thereafter. From the Hawaiian Electric ing its own extensive ice plant. A line is Company plant, power is furnished to the now being built to furnish linght and power pineapple canneries (the largest canneries to the great army post at Schofield Bar- in the world) to the extent of seven hun- racks, twenty miles distant from Honolulu.
The power house and ice plant. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC
THE TRUST CO. IN HAWAII. Honolulu was one of the first cities to adopt the idea of the Trust Company. In 1852 Henry Waterhouse began business in Honolulu, and just fifty years later the name of his firm was changed to the "Henry Waterhouse Trust Company" and this very successful concern continues to occupy the ground floor of the Campbell Block on 1, ort and Merchant streets. Here was born the first commercial wireless system in the world—that of Hawaii. There are spacious vaults for valuable papers, insur- ance departments, real estate features, and every department common to the up-to-date Trust Company. The Company is also a member of the Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. Located in the heart of the business cen- ter of Honolulu, here stock and bonds are exchanged, insurance is issued and every kind of real estate handled, and here, too, is the home of the Kaimuki Land Co., and the agency for the Volcano House at the Crater of Kilauea. THE MID-PACIFIC 13
The Catton, Neill Building, Honolulu. Al so the home of the General Electric Co. in Hawaii. Honolulu is known around the world Half a century is an age in the life of for the manufacture of sugar mill ma- Honolulu. The first frame building is not chinery. Much of this is made by Catton, one hundred years old, and the first hard- Neill & Co., Ltd., Engineers, who build ware store, that of E. 0. Hall & Son, Ltd., and erect sugar mill machinery. The was not founded until the year 1850, but works are on South Street, Honolulu, while since then, on the commanding corner of the offices and salesrooms are located in a Fort and King streets, it has remained the new concrete building on Alakea and Queen premier hardware concern in Hawaii. The streets, erected recently for this purpose. entire three-story building is taken up Here are seen the displays of the General with extensive displays of every kind of Electric Co., of which Catton, Neill & hardware. One floor, however, is given Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian agents, as well as over to crockery and kitchen utensils, while for the leading gas engines, water wheels, in the basement even a ship might be fitted steam plows, pumps, condensers and tools out with its hardware, cordage, and roping manufactured in the United States. This needs. This company is also agent for the is one of the oldest engineering firms in Sherwin-Williams house paints and repre- Hawaii. sents many mainland hardware firms.
E. 0. Hall & Son Building, Fort and King streets.
14 THE MID-PACIFIC
MUTUAL FIFE inLIPINC
A MODERN TRUST COMPANY. ment and to the unbounded confidence re- posed in them by the people whom they The Trent Trust Co., Ltd., organized in 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, serve. The Trust Company acts as Ex- now has $158,000 in cash capital and earn- ecutor and Manager of Estates, Fiduciary ed surplus, and gross assets of $505,000. Agent, and as Attorney and Agent of non- The Mutual Building & Loan Society, or- residents and others needing such service. ganized and managed by the same people, Its offices are centers of activity in real has assets in excess of $259,000. The estate, rent, insurance and investment cir- splendid growth of these concerns has been cles. The Company is a member of the due to careful and conservative manage- Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange.
The great women's dry goods department store of B. F. Ehlers & Company, occupies half of the main block on Fort Street. It is the largest and most complete estab- lishment of its kind in Honolulu, and here every kind of dry goods may be found. THE MID-PACIFIC 15
HOME FERTILIZING. For the small planter this company makes The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company stores special fertilizers, and the gardens of Hono- its fertilizers in the largest concrete ware- lulu are kept beautiful by the use of a house west of the Rockies. The works of special lawn fertilizer made by this com- this company cover several acres near Hono- pany. Fertilizing alone has made Hawaii lulu. The ingredients are purchased in the garden of the Pacific. shipload lots, and the formulas adopted by H. F. Wichman & Company's jewelry the different plantations for their fertilizers establishment on Fort Street, is one of are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Honolulu's show places. The gold and sil- Fertilizer Company. Their chemists ana- verware display is well worth a morning's lyze the soils and suggest the formulas. study.
Hawaii's leading jewelry establishment 16 THE MID-PACIFIC
Banking in Honolulu
The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King Streets, Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the U. S. Government.
chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry pf the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi- fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock- burn. On Dec. 30, 1916, the deposits with Ellis bank amounted to $10,714,285.79. The Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort Street, is an old established financial institution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business. The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, are closely identified with the largest the central bank of Honolulu, with a business interests in the Territory. Its capital, surplus and undivided profits directors and officers are men of ability, amounting to nearly a million and a half, integrity and high standing in the com- or more than the total of any other bank munity. The Company was incorporated in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 magnificent building at the busiest busi- fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated doubling this capital. On June 30th. 1913, ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and the Capital of the Company was $200,- Fort streets ; has a savings department and 000; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided was organized in 1897. Profits $22,573.77. It conducts a trust The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was company business in all its various lines established August 17, 1858, and has oc- with offices in the Stangenwala Building, cupied its premises on the corner of Mer- Merchant St., adjoining Bank of Hawaii. THE MID-PACIFIC 17
New South Wales
•••■•■•••■•■•■•••.=.411.1•••••■•••••■•■••••■•••■•••■•••••■•••■••••••■••■•■■■•••••••■•••■■•■
The Macdonald, an arm of the Hawkesbury River.
New South Wales welcomes the tourist. golden beaches, the Blue Mountains, Jeno- The Goverment Tourist Bureau, Sydney, lan Caves and Mt. Kosciusko. gives free advice and assistance to those who want to know: what to see, where to stay, Write for literature to Fred C. Gonus, how to get there, and what to pay. You Government Tourist Bureau, Sydney, should visit: Port Jackson Harbor, Sydney's N. S. W. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Tourist's Hawaii
The Alexander Young Hotel (under same Management as Moana, Hawaiian and Sea- side Hotels). The von-Hamm-Young Co., Importers recently extended its rails thirty-two miles Machinery Merchants and leading auto- along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe mobile dealers, have their offices and store and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip in the Alexander Young Building, at the is one of the scenic trips of the world. The corner of King and Bishop Streets, and Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite their magnificent automobile salesroom and direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea branch with the Auto Service takes the street. Here one may find almost any- tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge thing. Phone No. 4901. of the ever active Kilauea. Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the THE BLAISDELL. The newest down town chief port, and from Hilo excursions are hotel, occupying a block on Fort Street. made to all the points of interest. The Splendid rooms from $1.00 a day and $20 Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up a month up. Phone 1267. the matter of home promotion work and is CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. developing the wonderful scenic surround- Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation and S• S. Co., Honolulu for special in- of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has clusive excursion rates.
Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937. THE MID-PACIFIC 19
THE AUTOMOBILE IN HAWAII The phenomenal growth of the automo- bile industry throughout the United States is reflected in the rapid strides made by the Schuman Carriage Company in the past four years. From a comparatively small beginning the Schuman Carriage Company has grown to be the largest dealers in au- tomobiles and carriages, and all the acces- sories pertaining thereto in the Territory of Hawaii. The Schuman Carriage Company has enlarged its floor space many times, and at the present time has erected a new con- crete building which proves a substantial addition to the automobile industry in Ha- waii. It will be pictured in our next issue. The Schuman Company handle a line of cars which allows the purchaser ample scope for a choice. With the Pierce-Arrow as a high priced leader, the Franklin, Hud- son, Oldsmobile, Studebarker, Chalmers, Overland and Ford can be found on the salesroom floor. The manufacture of farm wagons, paint- ing of automobiles, automobile tops and seat covers, occupy quite a large amount of floor space in the Schuman establishment, and is in the hands of the most competent men in that line of work to be found in the Territory. 20 THE MID-PACIFIC
Round About Honolulu
Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Street, stands at the head for flavor and Streets, is the actual center of life and keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- here you also get the tender meats and section of the tram lines, the shoppers, fresh vegetables of which an abundant business men, and tourists await their cars, supply is always on hand. Heilbron & chatting at the open soda fountain, that is Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here derful business until now the Metropolitan the tourist and stranger is advised as to Meat Market is the central and popular the sights of the city, and supplied with market place of Honolulu. Phone 3445. any perfumes, candies or drugs he may Honolulu is so healthy that people don't need during his stay. Chambers Drug usually die there, but when they do they Store is one of the institutions of Hono- phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, lulu. Phone No. 1291. 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, The largest of the very fashionable and he arranges the after details. If you shops in the Alexander Young Building, are a tourist and wish to be interred in occupying the very central portion, is that your own plot on the mainland, Williams of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the will embalm you; or he will arrange all ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest details for interment in Honolulu. Don't design is kept in stock. Every kind of leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as other, but if you must, let your friends well as printers' and binders' supplies. talk it over with Williams. There are musical instruments of every Whatever you do, do not fail to visit kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King and the Angelus Player Piano and this Street. Early morning is the best time for concern is constantly adding new features this, when all the multi-colored fish of and new stock. The business man will Hawaiian waters are presented to view find his every need in the office supplied and every nationality of the islands is on by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Arun 1, r call over the phone, and this is true also leading spirit and founder of the Oahu of the fashionable society leader, whether Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, tion of which the city is proud. or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. A monument to the pluck and energy of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. and manager. This plant at Queen and Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's from the oven, the delicious baker's bread leading enterprises, doing a flourishing and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all lumber and mill business. the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery THE SWEET SHOP, On Hotel Street, op- crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come posite the Alexander Young, is the from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. the most complete and up to date machin- Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian ery and equipment in the territory. singers and players, and here at every "Maile" Australian butter from the hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Metropolitan Meat Market on King prices the delicacies of the season. THE MID-PACIFIC 21
The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer companies, and has also acquired the Hcnolulu Lava Brick Company. It is making a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.
Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort phone service throughout Hawaii. For a Street is the Office Supply Co., the home dollar and a half, a Night Letter of twenty- of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, five words may he sent to any part of the and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book territory. Honolulu was the first city in cases. Every kind of office furniture is the world to install a house-to-house tele- kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as phone system, and Hawaii the first country well as a complete line of office stationery. to commercially install wireless telegraphy. There is a repair shop for typewriters, and The City's great furniture store, that or every necessary article that the man of J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of business might need. Phone 3843. the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. With the wood that is used for building Here the latest styles in home and office in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen furniture arriving constantly from San Street, Phone 2105, have for generations Francisco are displayed on several spacious supplied the people of Honolulu and those floors. Phone No. 2111. on the other islands; also their buildings The leading music store in Hawaii is and paints. Their office is on Queen St., on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, Music Co. No home is complete in Hono- and their lumber yards extend right back lulu without a ukulele, a piano and a Victor to the harbor front, where every kind of talking machine. The Bergstrom Music hard and soft wood grown on the coast is Company, with its big store on Fort Street, landed by the schooners that ply from will provide you with these—a Chickering, Puget Sound. a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; and Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed if you are a transient it will rent you a rock used in the construction of the mod- piano. The Bergstrom Music Company, ern building in Hawaii. They also main- phone 2331. tain their own stables and drays. Draying The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda in Honolulu is an important business, and water. The Consolidated Soda Water Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the and keep drays of every size, sort and de- largest manufacturers of delightful soda scription for the use of those who require beverages in the Territory. Aerated waters them. They also conduct a rock crusher cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The and supply wood and coal. Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root The Mutual Telephone Co. works in Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water close accord with the Marconi Wireless, that is delicious, besides a score of other and controls the wireless service between flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- bottle at any store. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand
Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.
Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers srch an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand,) a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- tains are some of the largest and most cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- scenic glaciers in the world. In these ship Co. also transfers passengers from Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Sydney. The Government Tourist twelve thousand feet high. On its Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 23
N.111.11111.•••■■•••■■•••■•• ■••••••••••11, New South Wales
•■•••■•■•IFIFIFIFI IINNI I■•■■•••
Circular Quay, Sydney. Physical configuration and a wide The wonderful system of limestone range of climates give the State of New caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- South Wales its wonderful diversity of land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- scenery, its abundance of magnificent tions, which must forever remain the resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- despair of the painter, the photographe+ ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this and the writer. The world has no more bewildering array of scenic attractions, marvelous or beautiful system of cave and the peculiar strangeness of the forms than these at Jenolan, which tourist s of its animal and vegetable life, which from everywhere have marked as their make New South Wales one of the most own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- interesting countries in the world, and plemented and rivalled by the extensive one which an up-to-date, well-traveled systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil tourist must see. ly, a little further away from Sydney. The climate of the State ranges from In the south, among the Australian the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range. sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- which contains the highest peak in the ers, and withal is one of the most equable Continent, and is said to be the oldest in the world. Its eastern shore is washed land surface on the globe. The Hotel by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with and stretches by meadow, tableland and every convenience, golf links and tennis courts,—stands at an altitude of 6000 mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath feet. In Summer, the in, untaineer and the rim of the setting sun. trout fisherman stays here to enjoy the Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a bag with fish caught in a handy stream. distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of and in Winter the ski-runner, tobogganer rare magnificence. Through countless and ice-skater revel in the Alpine car- centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- nivals conducted on the glistening snow- dous gorges, comparable only to the fields. famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- The Government Tourist Bureau, a tus covered slopes give off health-giving splendidly equipped Institution at Challis odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to panoramas impress themselves on the all inquirers in connection with the tour- memory of the mountain visitor, ist resorts of the State. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC
Around the Pacific
as well as the Britisher is made welcome if he cares to make South Australia his home. The South Australian Intelligence and YME NORTHERN Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on TERRITORY King "William Street, Adelaide, and the government has printed many illustrated books and pamphlets describing the scenic and industrial resources of the stater A postal card or letter to the Intelligence and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the books and information you may desire. ON TO JAPAN. The Nippon Yusen Kaisha, or Japan TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA. Mail Steamship Co. with its fleet of 94 From San Francisco, Vancouver and vessels, and tonnage of 450,000, maintains from Honolulu there are two lines of fast a service from Yokohama via Japanese, Chi- steamships to Sydney, Australia. nese, Philippine and Australian ports to From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- Sydney and Melbourne, as well as a tralia, there is a direct line of railway on European service, fortnightly from Yoko- which concession fares are granted tourists hama to London and Antwerp, and from arriving from overseas, and no visitor to Yokohama (starting at Hongkong) to Vic- the Australian Commonwealth can afford toria, B. C., and Seattle, Wash. Be- to neglect visiting the southern central state sides these main services, the Nippon Yu- of Australia; for South Australia is the sen Kaisha extends its coastal service to state of superb climate and unrivalled re- all of the principal ports in Japan, sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the Korea and China, etc., thus making it the South,' is the Capital, and there is a Govern- ideal shippers' service from Australia, ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau, America and Europe, as well as the most where the tourist, investor, or settler is convenient around the Pacific and around given accurate information, guaranteed by the world service for the tourist or mer- the government, and free to all. From chant. There are branch offices of the Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river Nippon Yusen Kaisha at all the principal and motor excursions to almost every part ports of the world. The head office is at Jf the state. Tourists are sent or conducted Toyko, Japan, and its telegraphic address, through the magnificent mountain and "Morioka, Toyko." pastoral scenery of South Australia. The Mr. Chu Gem, Honolulu's most re- government makes travel easy by a system spected Chinese business man, is a director of coupon tickets and facilities for caring of the Home Insurance Co., and head of for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions the firm of Quong Sam Kee Co., at the are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi- corner of King and Maunakea Sts., which iduals or parties are made familiar with supplies the local dealers of the territory the industrial resources, and the American with drugs and general merchandise. ------• THE GARDEN AND PLAY Tasmania GROUND OF AUSTRALIA
Lake Marion and Du Cane Mountains, Tasmania.
Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- hours' run from the Australian mainland. ian Government Tourist Department; and The large steamers plying between Vic- the Bureau will arrange for transport of the toria and New Zealand call at Hobart visitor to any part of the island. A shilling both ways, and there is a regular service trip to a local resort is not to small for the from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- Government Bureau to handle, neither is ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine tour of the whole island too big. Travel steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. coupons are issued including both fares and Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and accommodation if desired. mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen- paradise. It is also a prolific orchard ters there are local Tourist Associations. country and has some of the finest fruit In Launceston the Northern Tasmania growing tracks in the world. The climate Tourist Association has splendid offices. is cooler than the rest of Australia. The Tasmanian Government has an up- The angling is one of the greatest at- to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 "William tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers Street, next door to the New Zealand Gov- are nearly all stocked with imported trout, ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, which grow to weights not reached by other and information can be produced. parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov- For detailed information regarding Tas- ernment issue a special illustrated handbook mania, either as to travel or settlement, dealing with angling. enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- The Tasmanian Government deals di- mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Govt. rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania. )1)IPA 3 A/A •1...ji ■ )81.4.0,!.
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The picturesque Oahu Railway. There are daily trains from Honolulu to the beautiful Haleiwa Hotel, and to Leilehua. Also combined auto and rail trips around the island through the Wahiawa pineapple fields, with a stay at Haleiwa. $10 covers all expenses of this two-day trip.
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PRINTED HT HONOLULU STAR BULLETIN. MERCHANT ST.