DISCOVER ITALIA! Exploring Le From the hustle and bustle of Rome, Paul Pettengale and family travel to Le Marche for a week’s stay in a magnifi cent villa for a spot of R&R and to explore one of ’s lesser-known regions… The Pettengale family enjoyed their stay

lthough no doubt couple Monique de Veer and Robert familiar to many Hofsteede. They specialise in rental Italia! readers, the properties in the region, but also region of Le Marche provide services for those who wish is little-known to the to purchase property in Le Marche, Avast majority of people who aren’t and will even oversee restoration natives of Italy. And even then projects, taking tumbledown wrecks there are those who question where to a complete house with a pool on the peninsula it actually is. Le (if you wish) that you’d be proud Marche could be considered a rural to call home (through www.marche backwater, playing second fiddle to propertynet.com). the likes of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio in central Italy. Which is a RURAL LOCATION shame, because – to my mind at Once a school house, the villa has least – Le Marche is one of the most been sympathetically restored, the stunning regions in the country. gardens landscaped and a large pool It has a dramatic topography that installed. Its extremely rural location provides vast vistas encompassing makes it a perfect place to relax mountains, rolling plains, cliff-side with your family or friends – it Image by Paul Pettengale beaches and big, big skies. It is can sleep up to eight – though it’s uniquely tranquil, and yet possesses a relatively short drive from the The outdoor pool at a united population that is friendly, towns of and L’Antica Sapienza welcoming of tourists, and fiercely for restaurants and provisions. proud of the cities, towns and If you would prefer to self-cater villages they inhabit. Le Marche then you’ll be delighted by the is a delightful pocket of Italy that fully kitted-out kitchen, the large absolutely deserves to be explored barbecue next to the pool and the and enjoyed. pizza oven in the villa’s portico. The sound of one’s children One of the most important hitting the water when diving into aspects of an Italian holiday, as we a pool at the end of a long journey all know, is the food. Le Marche is is most satisfying. It says, “We’ve one of the least appreciated regions arrived”, and one that offers the of the country for its cuisine, which glowing start-of-holiday feeling, one is a crying shame. Take, for instance, that instantly relaxes you into a state Olive all’ascolana. Sublime… of slow-motion contentment. We’d Harking from the town of Ascoli arranged to stay at L’Antica Sapienza Piceno, these are large, local olives through Le Marche Explorer, a stuffed with cheese or spiced minced

company owned and run by Dutch meat, coated in breadcrumbs and Images © Le Marche Explorer unless otherwise stated

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IT149.LeMarcheHoliday.sg6.indd 40 23/02/2017 15:07pm Tucked away in the The lavender-lined path hills of Le Marche leads down to the pool

Once a ruin, this is now Restored with a charming hideaway local stone

Cook for yourselves or The interior retains so hire a private chef much original character

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Plenty of space to relax on Soak up the view while the shores of Il Lago di you soak in the bath

The bespoke kitchen at Le Marche Explorer’s welcome L’Antica Sapienza open-air feast in San Ginesio

Guided hikes in the Watersports abound at Sibillini National Park Il Lago di Fiastra

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IT149.LeMarcheHoliday.sg6.indd 42 23/02/2017 15:08pm fried. Once you start eating them it’s time for some exercise! Le Marche WHERE TO EAT hard to stop. Explorer organises regular walking And so, on the evening after tours through the Sibillini National IN YOUR VILLA WITH CLAUDIA’S KITCHEN Organised through Le Marche Explorer. we’d arrived at L’Antica Sapienza, Park, but plenty of time and a When you arrive in your holiday villa in we drove to the nearby medieval head for heights are needed. So we Le Marche you’re no doubt shattered, village of San Ginesio – voted decided to save the boot leather and and the last thing you want to do is get one of the most attractive in all of head for some nearby water. back in the car to drive to a restaurant Italy – where we were served these My wife is a committed or – heaven forbid – cook for yourselves. delicious olive treats, served on swimmer. Long swims – three or So why not employ the services of Claudia cocktail sticks, along with a glass of four times a week – and when I say Dürrbeck, a local chef who will travel to prosecco. The occasion? Le Marche ‘long’ I’m talking at least 3km at your rental property and cook dinner for Explorer was welcoming its guests a time. Most of her swimming is you. Dishes will vary depending on season with an open-air feast, taking place in a flooded quarry, or in the sea. (our son loved her nettle gnocchi, I loved in the town square. Following the Of course, the pool at L’Antica her slow-cooked lamb). A meal for four nibbles we were served ‘white’ pizza Sapienza is superb, and essential will cost €110, plus ingredients (does not (no tomato sauce), then a huge during the heat of summer, but include wine). She even does the washing up (though there’s no harm in giving a slab of perfectly-cooked lasagne, Fiona needed something a tad more helping hand). roasted pork with potatoes, and then challenging during our stay. And so, ●€ ●€ ●€ – for those that could manage it – remembering a solo trip I’d taken tiramisù and coffee. The company many years before, we all piled into was superb. Well over 30 guests the car and headed in the direction (plus children) sat on one long of the mountains. table, and conversation flowed. The majority of the diners were either SWITCHBACK ROADS Dutch or German, though English Il Lago di Fiastra is a reservoir prevailed as the main spoken nestled in the heart of the Sibillini language. The couple sat next to us Mountain National Park. About an

had been on a mammoth journey hour’s drive from L’Antica Sapienza, Image by Paul Pettengale from the Netherlands – the last leg following fairly tortuous switchback alone had taken them 11 hours, roads, it feels somewhat incongruous LE LOGGE including having to deal with plenty to encounter such a large lake so far Corso Giannelli 34, of snarled-up traffic around Milan. above sea level. But what a lake it % +39 0733 506788 We felt grateful that we’d taken a is! When I photographed it in 2005, www.locandalelogge.it leisurely couple of days to make our the water was a dark grey, and there Situated in the heart of the medieval way from Rome, across Umbria and wasn’t a soul to be seen. A decade on Palazzo Brunelli in the charming town of into Le Marche. and what a difference! Urbisaglia, Le Logge became our favourite restaurant in the area – we visited both At first I thought the colour of for lunch and for dinner. We’d recommend CHILLING OUT the water had been altered by some going for a mixed antipasti as a lunch For the next couple of days we were divine iteration of Photoshop, but option – the restaurant produces its own determined to relax, taking time no, it really was that turquoise. Charcuterie from its own pigs – though the out to dip in and out of the pool, Iridescent, even. Fiona was in the pasta dishes are also excellent. When it cook locally-sourced produce on water in a jot – 3km later she comes to an evening meal you’re spoilt for the pool-side barbecue and visit the emerged to where I was resting choice (the menu changes daily, depending many small towns and villages in under the shade of a tree with the on season and availability of produce). My the province (the small, children only to announce she was son described his fillet steak as: “One of walled town of Urbisaglia was one going back for more. And after the best steaks I’ve had in my life.” of our favourites, and a must-visit another 3km in the drink we were ●€ ●€ ●€ especially for foodies – the Le Logge all ready for lunch. TERRA NOSTRA Image by Paul Pettengale restaurant is definitely worth a And lunch at Il Lago di Fiastra Piazza A.Gentili 3, San Ginesio visit). There are various markets in means pizza, as right next to the car % +39 0733 656957 Le Marche where you can pick up park (and adjacent to the beach area www.terranostrasanginesio.it fresh meat, fish and vegetables, and where you can hire loungers Terra Nostra provided the food in the San I’d encourage you to track them or engage in water sports) is Osteria Ginesio piazza for the Le Marche Explorer down – market-bought produce del Lago, a fantastic, family-run welcome feast. Noted for its huge variety of simply can’t be beaten (though pizzeria with both indoor and pizzas, it also offers a wide range of Marche specialities. There is seating both inside if you need the convenience of a (covered) outdoor spaces. It features and out, with a warm welcome! Settle down supermarket there’s a good, well- great food at very reasonable prices in the town square for a glass of prosecco, stocked Punto Simply in Tolentino, (€9 will get you a large pizza, some antipasti, a pizza and a totally just 5km or so from the villa). easily enough for one, arguably for relaxed atmosphere. And, given its location, Though after a mid-week wine two), and views across the lake. It’s it’s very reasonably priced. tour (see more on page 46), it was certainly a great place to refuel ●€ ●€

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More than 15 years the provider of Holiday Properties, Activities and Properties for Sale in

A view of Il Torre di Al fresco dining at Beautiful, Authentic Le Marche

Portonovo from the sea Il Torre di Portonovo Image by Paul Pettengale

WHERE TO EAT (continued) before taking a leisurely lakeside each sting as no worse than that of a stroll for the afternoon. stinging nettle). OSTERIA FIASTRA It’s always the same when you’re But where to stay in this placid Il Lago di Fiastra on holiday: relaxing by the pool, resort? We were extremely fortunate % +39 0737 52669 later in the day, I realise that five to spend a night in Il Torre di After a swim in the lake or to get some sun-drenched days had flown by. Portonovo; once a watchtower respite from lounging on the lake’s beach? Just where did they go? The slow- commissioned by Pope Clement XI Then head for Osteria Fiastra. A variety of paced way of life in Le Marche has in the 18th century to guard against dishes is served at the friendly, family-run establishment, though we’d defi nitely somehow accelerated the longer pirates, it was home to the De Bosis recommend the pizza. For sure, it’s not of we’ve been here. As the kids enjoy family from the late 19th century. the like that you’ll encounter in the centre diving competitions (carefully, of Now the family-run the property of Naples, but the restaurant’s pizzas are course – the pool isn’t that deep) as a very low-key B&B (there are tasty, fi lling and there are a large number Fiona and I discuss the next stage in just three rooms available), though of toppings to choose from (the mushroom our east Italian experience. Monique its location, just yards from the option proved a hit on our visit). And it’s and Robert have arranged for us to sea edge, the tremendous sense of cheap! Pizzas from €6, with a large bottle discover a very different aspect of Le history and the utterly spectacular of Birra Morreti for just €2.50. Marche, away from the mountains views (especially from the ‘open ●€ and the rolling hills, for tomorrow deck’ top floor) make this a very RISTORANTE DA GIACCHETTI we’re due to travel to the coast. special place to spend a night, or Portonovo Beach Something really rather special has longer, should you have the chance. % +39 071 801384 been lined up. There’s a Michelin-starred www.ristorantedagiacchetti.it restaurant on the beach, but we Situated right on the Portonovo beach ON THE ROAD AGAIN wouldn’t be dining there on the is a massively popular establishment. After packing our bags into our hire night of our stay. No, Adriana, who Seafood is the way to go here, as you’d car we head east, towards , manages the tower as a business, expect, with a huge array of options that Le Marche’s capital city. Though had prepared a superb open-air meal will differ depending on what’s caught on we take a right off of the A14 to be shared with her family – and the day. Open from 1 April until the end of Autostrada towards Camerano and Monique and Robert with their own October, booking is essential. There is also a (surprisingly reasonable) bar that is open from there on to the tiny, though daughters. Wine flowed, as did the all day, should you just fancy a drink and famed, seaside resort of Portonovo. conversation, but we weren’t late some shade from the sun. The beach maybe fine shingle rather to bed, for we were determined to ●€ ●€ ●€ than sand, but that doesn’t put off climb to the top of the tower the the hundreds of locals and tourists following morning to watch the KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES who flock here. And it’s easy to sunrise over the Adriatic at 5.30am. (full meal per person, not including wine) ●€ Up to €25 see why: the view out across the It was a fitting conclusion to ●€ ●€ €26-€50 Adriatic Sea is breathtaking. Cobalt our time in Le Marche. Absolute ●€ ●€ ●€ More than €50 blue seas stretch to a seemingly tranquility and a sense of peace. Are you considering renting a house, to buy or to renovate? And you need help? We are living and working in GETTING infinite horizon, whilst mahogany- Within hours, after a hearty WHERE TO STAY THERE tanned Italians lounge, chat, swim, breakfast, we’d be back in the car Le Marche and our team is ready for you! or maybe enjoy a hired sail boat. for a long drive back to Rome. The LE MARCHE EXPLORER BY AIR You can fly into If you intend to go, then go peace would be shattered, but the % +39 333 979 1785 Personal support by officially in Italy registered Estate Agent and registered Restoration Company Ancona airport early. Car parking is limited, and the memories would remain. As we www.le-marche-explorer.com from Stansted, locals are wise to the fact, arriving left Le Marche my wife simply said: Unique range of beautiful villas, country houses, farmhouses, residences, apartments for sale and/or for rent [email protected] or fly-drive from Le Marche Explorer offers hand-picked as early as 7am during the height of “I could live here.” Knowledge and understanding of all investment opportunities in real estate Rome. A car is summer. And ask about ‘meduse’, for accommodation for your holiday or long- advisable for term rental with a wide range of villas, getting around at times, small jellyfish bob about To read more about the story of the apartments, B&Bs to choose from – there’s in Le Marche. ready to sting the unwary (this restoration of L’Antica Sapienza, even a tower by the sea! didn’t put Fiona off; she described please turn to page 46. . - .. - - - - . . - 0039 333 9791785 5 . 5 5 5 - . - . . - 0039 339 1019042 44 ITALIA! April 2017

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WINE MATTERS If you love wine, then you’ll love Our home in Le Marche. Skilled craftsmen vinify fine wines, principally from the red Sangiovese and Montepulciano grapes and the white Verdicchio. The areas of , Jesi and Mount Conero are Le Marche all with an easy drive from L’Antica Australian Adrian Gardner and his wife, Margaret, have an Sapienza, and have some of the best producers – and the best wines – of absolute passion for Italy, and for Le Marche in particular. Le Marche. You can organise tastings, Italia! asked Adrian how they came to L’Antica Sapienza though you’ll need to call ahead. They’re informal and friendly, and English is spoken for the most part. fell in love with our ‘ruin’ and virtually In addition, the wines are reasonably decided then and there to go ahead. priced, should you decide to take away a case or two. L’Antica Sapienza is fairly During our visit, we spent the remotely located. Did this concern afternoon with Monique from Le you at all? And did its location Marche Explorer and Claudia, our local prompt issues with local artisans private chef, visiting two prominent involved in the renovation? producers. Established in 1971 in the L’Antica Sapienza has the feeling of Matelica zone, Belisario is responsible seclusion but it is only 1km from the for producing 24 wines in total, sealed road and 15 minutes from the the vast majority of them based on motorway. So it had the best of Verdicchio (www.belisario.it). All both worlds. We were referred to though all of the wines we tasted were a good local company which had

quite superb, I particularly enjoyed the Images here courtesy of Adrian and Margaret Gardner carried out 14 renovations (ours sparkling Cuvée Nadir and the Carpe was number 15) so they had a lot of You live in Melbourne, Australia, experience. When work started early which is a long way from Le in 2005, there were some difficulties Marche! What prompted you to sourcing builders as a long winter had buy a property in the area? delayed many local building projects. I was travelling regularly to Europe on We had a delay of a couple of months business and thought how nice it would be and the work was eventually carried out Wine tasting to have a bolt-hole somewhere in Europe, by a Tuscan builder using a team of local

at Belisario Image by Paul Pettengale preferably in a warm clime. Through artisans. I guess the usual principles of friends, I made contact with an English supply and demand apply but craftsmen Diem dessert wine. Contact the winery couple who had a house in Le Marche. seem fairly mobile and are not fazed by at [email protected] to organize Many Australians visit Italy but usually having to travel fair distances to work. your visit. Buy the wines, and local stick to the west side of the Apennines produce, from the in-house store. or go north to the Lakes and Venice. How long did the renovation We also went to Alberto Following our initial contact with the process take? And what hiccups Quacquarini in . This English couple, we did some research and did you have along the way? cooperative makes three sparkling decided that property in Le Marche was The restoration took the best part of wines, a Verdicchio and three reds good value compared with Tuscany and two years. We finally moved in early (plus a couple of grappas, for the Umbria. When we were in the region, we in February 2007. There were a few brave). The sparklers are good, the took the opportunity have a look at the changes along the way – some good, Brut my favourite, and the reds are English couple’s house and met with the others not so good – but nothing superb. The top-of-the-range Colli group who had managed their restoration. money wouldn’t fix! Some changes della Serra, which blends Vernacchia Interestingly, the principal was a were made to the interior layout. with Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet German (ex-Luftwaffe), his geometra In those years, the footprint is to die for. Visit www.quacquarini. was a local Italian and he had an of the house had to match the it or email [email protected] to English secretary so it seemed the ideal original dwelling but the interior arrange your tasting. You can purchase combination – German efficiency, Italian could be altered at will. The all the company’s wines (and others!) flair and local knowledge and an English- geometra redesigned the main in the in-house shop along with their speaking communicator! We spent a day entrance to form a beautiful other speciality: confectionery. looking at completed projects as well as atrium around the stairs. We ‘ruins’ that were ready for restoration. We made some changes to the

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IT149.LeMarcheHoliday.sg6.indd 46 23/02/2017 15:09pm pools being filled with mud and one that was actually washed into a valley during a storm. So we engaged the services of a local who was a qualified hydrologist as well as a landscaper. He absolutely transformed the property. Terraces were constructed and an irrigation system run on rainwater collected from the roof was installed. Over 1,500 plants were used to create a wonderful garden and orchard at the property. Over the years the garden has been added original features. The history of the house to and the original olive trees is still embedded in the new construction have been complemented by the – the time-scarred wooden beams, the planting of a further 40 trees. gentle curves to the walls, the pizza oven – all remind us of its origins, while How much time do you having all the mod-cons of a 21st-century spend at the villa per year? dwelling. However, it is understandable Since we moved in nearly 10 years if people opt for a completed house, ago, Margaret and I have spent time especially if the property is being bought in both spring and autumn in the primarily for the rental market. There are house. The property is rented during a number of local companies which have the summer months and we have had or can find properties to suit most tastes. a wonderful array of visitors from Monique’s and Robert’s company (www. all corners of the globe, a number of marchepropertynet.com) is an example. whom have made return visits. We have also had numerous friends and If Italia! readers stayed at family come and stay with us. A great L’Antica Sapienza, where in the benefit of spending so much time in Italy area should they visit? is that we have created a large circle of L’Antica Sapienza is for families or friends – both Italian and ex-pat – and groups who want privacy with their own we always look forward to catching up facilities: pool, garden, pizza oven, during our visits. barbecue… But the house is only a Le Marche is widely known in Italy short distance from some of the most for its great food and wine. Other than beautiful towns in Le Marche, if not Verdicchio, the wine is not well known in Italy, such as San Ginesio, Australia and I have started importing a and Sarnarno. Also, the historic city of small hand-picked selection of fine wines Tolentino is a 15-minute drive away, with and introducing them to collectors and a re-enactment of the famous Napoleonic restaurants in Melbourne. A spin-off from Battle of Tolentino each May. From the bathrooms and this is that we have got to know wonderful house, you can be on the Adriatic coast or there was a hiccup in people in the local wine industry. A longer high up in the Sybilline Mountains in less the kitchen where not much thought term plan is to get the whole family to the than 40 minutes. Nearby is the province’s had been given to the location of the house for a ‘white’ Christmas. capital, Macerata, which hosts wonderful fridge relative to the cabinetry. The opera at the Sferisterio during the warmer only workable solution was to cut a hole What advice would you have months. Further afield there are the in the wall to accommodate the fridge. for others looking to purchase spectacular cities of Urbino in the north The cost of the hole worked out to property in the Le Marche and Ascoli Piceno in the south, both of about three times region? Renovate or restored? which chronicle the history of Le Marche the cost of the We didn’t really entertain the idea of back to the Romans and beyond. fridge! The main buying a restored property. A huge part Festivals are an integral part of Le added cost was of the attraction was taking an old ruin Marche life and celebrate everything from the landscaping. that had lain dormant for 50 years or so flowers to chestnuts. Many are food-based As the house was and bringing it back to life. I have done and coincide with the seasons. Markets on the side of a hill this with a classic motor car and found it a travel around the towns during the week, in the middle of a profoundly satisfying experience. For us it including the well-known antique markets working farm we were was the right choice to restore the house. in and Ascoli Piceno. As for good concerned about heavy We got so much pleasure from seeing a restaurants, there are so many it is hard to rainfall. We had heard beautiful villa emerge from the ruins of choose. We usually let our mood decide as alarming stories of an old farmhouse yet retain many of its we know we will never be disappointed.

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