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Woods and Lakes of Maine

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Woods and Lakes of Maine UC-NRLF m hi? I Mil o ILLUSTRATED OD ! " O ^--- .' - - 1 ** * I* THE MOOSE (Alces Americanus). WOODS AND LAKES OF MAINE A TRIP FROM MOOSEHEAD LAKE TO NEW BRUNSWICK IN A BIRCH-BARK CANOE TO WHICH ARE ADDED SOME INDIAN PLACE-NAMES AND THEIR MEANINGS NOW FIRST PUBLISHED BY LUCIUS L. HUBBARD COMPILER OF " HUBBARD'S GUIDE TO MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND NORTHERN MAINE" anti rfflfnal Kllustratfons BY WILL L. TAYLOR SECOND EDITION, REVISED BOSTON TICKNOR AND COMPANY 211 Fremont .Street to Copyright, 1883, BY Lucius L. HUBBARD. All rights reserved. (Eambrtoge : PRINTED BY JOHN WILSON AND SON, UNIVERSITY PRESS. Co FROM WHOM HE DREW THE LOVE OF NATURE THAT IN HIM LIVES, THE WRITER AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATES i0 3300ft. M132515 PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. " I~N offering to the public the second edition of Woods and Lakes of Maine," the author makes his sincere acknowledgments for the generous meed of praise be- stowed upon the first edition by the press, for the many kind words of approval given by personal friends, and for the unexpected, and hence all the more gratifying testimonials received from utter strangers. These are an ample reward for his labor, and are the best evidence that he had attained his object, that of keeping fresh in the minds of his readers pleasant memories of their out-door life. He is thus led to hope that this new and revised edition will find favor equally with the other, at least among those whose privilege it is, at some season of the year, to commune with Nature in the wild recesses of the forest. BOSTON, May, 1888. INTRODUCTION. TT had been the writer's wish for several years to give to the public a true and circumstantial delineation of the camper's life in the Maine forests, especially as seen by one who goes into them with an Indian guide. The gratification of this wish was not possible until the autumn of 1881, at which time it was the writer's good fortune to be accompanied on his annual excursion into the woods by the friend to whose brush the illus- trations in the following pages are due. The tendency to sacrifice literalness and accuracy to artistic effect pre- vails to a great extent to-day among professional illus- trators. Moreover, they do their work principally in the studio, from photographic material, it may be, and often have to draw on their imaginations to fill up gaps here and there, or to supply some deficiency left by the camera. Their pictures of forest life, therefore, are apt to convey, if not an incorrect impression, at least an in- harmonious or incomplete one, lacking color and reality, detail and finish, qualities the ability to produce which viii INTEODUCTION. can only be acquired by seeking Nature in her wildest haunts, and drinking at the fountain-head. The excursion above referred to has been made the groundwork of the accompanying text, and a few ex- periences and observations borrowed from other excur- sions of the writer have been introduced to make the work more comprehensive, and, it is hoped, more inter- esting as well. While no attempt at exhaustiveness has been made, the writer's aim has been to introduce largely such features of forest life as he had not happened to see treated before in print. It must not for a moment be supposed that the doings and sayings of the writer's friend and companion are herein literally portrayed. A foreground was wanted, to complete the picture, which should be in contrast with the subdued tones produced by the usually dull routine of life and a character camp ; accordingly mythical was evoked, who should consent to play the clown, and to be laughed at for his wit or his stupidity, as occasion might require. Another reason for this publication besides the one offered above is the writer's wish to make known a number of Indian place-names, and several legendary traditions, which he has gathered from Indian sources during his vacation rambles through Maine. The grow- interest ing manifested of late in this subject leads him to think that the publication of these names and their INTKODUCTIOK ix significations, although in the latter no pretension is made to philological precision and fulness, may be received with favor, and may lead to more thorough researches in the same direction by others. The translations (in many cases merely explanations) of the Indian names, as given in the foot-notes, have been derived, principally if not wholly, from the Indians themselves, and generally in the very words quoted. In the Appendix an attempt has been made to enlarge somewhat the sphere to which the writer limited himself in the text, by comparison, as well as by analysis, the latter often fragmentary to be sure, and sometimes offered with diffidence. The accompanying map, although a few copies of it have been heretofore published, was revised especially for this book, and contains with but two exceptions all the Indian names of places herein referred to that lie within the district covered by it. That our wild forests, and the lakes and streams which fill their basins and crevices, as it were, contain a vast fund for man to draw on, a fund of all that is precious to health and recreation, and an inexhaustible mine for study and investigation, needs no argument. In sub- ordinating to these opportunities for pleasure the more exciting sports of forest life, the writer would not be understood as decrying or detracting from the latter. He would merely give deserved pre-eminence to that more lasting pleasure, of drawing from Nature the boun- X INTEODUCTIOK ties which she offers in profusion, of learning to read her stones, her leaves and blossoms, and of forming a nearer kinship with the wild offspring that swim in her waters or roam through her groves. He has touched lightly upon these boundless themes, and if his words shall bring pleasure to any who have trodden the path before him, or incite others to follow, his reward will be ample. CAMBRIDGE, MASS., 1883. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE MOOSEHEAD LAKE. ITS LOCATION. ALTITUDE. EXTENT. DEPTH. INDIAN NAME. LEGENDS. MODERN NAME. MOUNT KINEO. SPENCER MOUNTAINS. INDIAN FIGHTS. INDIAN PLACE-NAMES 17 CHAPTER II. PASSAGE OVER MOOSEHEAD. OUR PARTY. JOE AND SILAS. NORTHEAST CARRY. OLD TRAMWAY. FIRST WHIFF OF FOR- EST AIR. WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. LOBSTER LAKE. MOONLIGHT REVERIES 30 CHAPTER III. PENOBSCOT VALLEY. RAPIDS. FIRST MORNING IN CAMP. " BREAKING CAMP. " PITCHING AND LOADING CANOE. A CARIBOU. MEASURING DISTANCES. Fox HOLE. A MESS OF TROUT. A MISHAP. REFLECTIONS. RUNNING RAPIDS. A FIFTH PASSENGER. SQUIRRELS 41 CHAPTER IV. PREPARATIONS FOR NIGHT. THE CAPTAIN'S OPINION ON CAMPING. A MISTY MORNING. CHESUNCOOK. UP THE UMBAZOOKSKUS. " SMITH'S " JUMPER. ITS EFFECT ON MOOSEHEAD GUIDES. MAKING A PORTAGE. MUD POND CARRY. NATIVE MODESTY . 58 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. PAGE BLACK-DUCKS. A MUSKRAT HOUSE. THE MUSKRAT AS A PET. CHAMBERLAIN FARM. APMOOJENEGAMOOK. INTO PONGOK- WAHEMOOK. EVIDENCES OF ILLEGAL HUNTING. SOME RE- FLECTIONS ON GAME PROTECTION AND THE GAME LAWS . 72 CHAPTER VI. THE LOON CONSIDERED MUSICALLY AND OTHERWISE. CAMP ON NAHMAJIMSKITEGWEK. HORNETS AND MAPLE-SUGAR. VISIT- ORS. AN EXCURSION TO HAYMOCK LAKE. ROUGH WATER. ALLAGASKWIGAMOOK. THROUGH THE BREAKERS. GUIDES. INDIANS vs. WHITES 86 CHAPTER VII. THE INDIAN PACK. How TO GET OVER A CARRY. AN ARTIST IN THE AIR. THROUGH TO ALLAGASKWIGAMOOKSIS. IN CAMP. ACQUAINTANCE WITH THE CHUBS. LOST IN THE WOODS. MAHKLICONGOMOC. CARRYING CANOE. CANVAS vs. BIRCH 101 CHAPTER VIII. PINE FORESTS. A CARIBOU. ANOTHER DISAPPOINTMENT. HOR- NETS vs. FLIES. THE BEAVER. His GENERAL APPEARANCE. DISTURBING A " BACHELOR." THE BEAVER'S HABITS. His DAMS. MECHANICAL SKILL. WARINESS 118 CHAPTER IX. BEAVER LODGES. THEIR COMPOSITION AND CONSTRUCTION. - BEAVER CUTTINGS. CAMP ON MEGKWAKANGAMOCSIS. HIGH- LOW-JACK. REST. SKETCHING BY MOONLIGHT. COLD WEA- THER. JOE'S ENGLISH. BAKED BEANS. A BEAVER BOG. CAUTION CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER X. PAGE MOONLIGHT ON THE BOG. MOOSE-CALLING. AN ANSWER. A BIG BULL. THE MOOSE-BIRD. MOOSE AND CARIBOU TRACKS. ANTLERS. BEAVER MEAT. BIRCH BARK AND ITS USES. A BIRCHEN AGE . 147 CHAPTER XI. ON TO MUSQUACOOK. MINK. MUD LAKE. THE GUIDES LEAVE CAMP IN QUEST OF FOOD. SPECTRAL LIGHT. APPREHENSIONS. - RETURN OF THE GUIDES. Low WATER. SHOEING THE CANOES. SNOW. INSUBORDINATION. BLACK CAT 164 CHAPTER XII. AMONG THE BOULDERS. SPIRIT OF THE RAPIDS. CAMPING AFTER DARK. THE ALLAGASH. TWELVE MILES OR No SUPPER. FOREST FIRES. MOIR'S. ALLAGASH FALLS. TOW-BOATS. ST. JOHN RIVER. SIGHTS ALONG THE WAY. RETROSPECT 175 APPENDIX. I. INDIAN PLACE-NAMES 191 II. CROSS-INDEX TO INDIAN NAMES 215 III. SHORAGE OF MOOSEHEAD LAKE 217 IV. SOUNDINGS IN MOOSEHEAD LAKE 219 V. TELOS CANAL . 221 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ENGRAVED BY JOHN ANDREW & SON. PAGE THE MOOSE Frontispiece POLING UP THE EAPIDS 21 SILAS 32 READY FOB THE STAKT 40 "PITCHING" THE CANOE 44 LUNCH BY THE WAY 50 COMING DOWN THE RAPIDS 53 UP THE UMBAZOOKSKUS 63 BOUND FOR MUD POND 71 MOUTH OF NAHMAJTMSKITEGWEK 79 AMONG THE WHITE-CAPS 93 JOE MAKING A PACK 102 A HEAVY LOAD 107 CARRYING A CANOE 113 BEAVER DAM 125 BEAVER LODGE . 135 XVI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE BEAVER MEADOW ON MEGKWAKAGAMOCSIS 145 CALLING MOOSE 155 NORTHERN LIGHTS ON MUSQUACOOK 166 HUNTER'S CABIN 173 THE SOCIAL HOUR 183 MAP OF FARM ISLAND BASIN, MOOSEHEAD LAKE .... 220 WOODS AND LAKES OF MAINE. CHAPTER I. MOOSEHEAD LAKE. ITS LOCATION. ALTITUDE. EXTENT. DEPTH. INDIAN NAME. LEGENDS. MODERN NAME. MOUNT KINEO. SPENCER MOUNTAINS. INDIAN EIGHTS. INDIAN PLACE-NAMES. "A /TOOSEHEAD LAKE, the largest of two or three thousand lakes and ponds with which the State of Maine is dotted, lies just above the west central por- tion of the State, approximately between parallels 45 25' and 45 50', and meridians 69 30' and 69 48', and is a vast reservoir, whose waters are used extensively to float to market the yearly timber product of the Ken- nebec valley, and to furnish motive power to the many mills along the river's course.
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