Swartland Rural Heritage Survey Wards 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 & 12 Overview Report September 2014

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY WARDS 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 & 12 OVERVIEW REPORT SEPTEMBER 2014

BESP ROUND 3 PHASE 2 Addendums to Swartland SDF

CONTENTS PAGE NO.

1.0 INTRODUCTION 2 2.0 METHODOLOGY 3 3.0 LEGAL AND POLICY FRAMEWORK 4 4.0 OVERVIEW OF THE REGIONAL LANDSCAPE CONTEXT 6 5.0 OVERVIEW OF THE SOCIAL AND CULTURAL HISTORY 10 6.0 OVERVIEW OF THE RURAL ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY 15 7.0 RURAL SWARTLAND: HERITAGE THEMES, TRENDS AND VULNERABILITIES 24 8.0 GENERAL CONSERVATION GUIDELINES 25 9.0 OVERVIEW OF FINDINGS 32 10.0 REFERENCES 45

ANNEXURES:

ANNEXURE 1: LIST OF PROVINCIAL HERITAGE SITES IN THE RURAL AREA OF SWARTLAND MUNICIPALITY 46 (source: SAHRA) ANNEXURE 2: REFERENCES TO HISTORIC HOMESTEADS IN THE RURAL WARDS OF SWARTLAND MUNICIPALITY 47 (FRANSEN:‘A GUIDE TO THE OLD BUILDINGS OF THE CAPE’ HANS FRANSEN; JONATHAN BALL, 2004) ANNEXURE 3: GRADING MAPS 56

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1.0 INTRODUCTION

This report forms the Overview Volume of a series of inventories done as part of a Rural Heritage Survey, for the seven rural wards of the Swartland Municipality: WARDS 1,3, 4,5,6,7 & 12.

A heritage survey of the urban areas of the Swartland Municipality was undertaken in 2009 by the Swartland Survey Ward 1 Group, and the contribution of this survey to this report is acknowledged. MOORREESBUR This report forms part of the program developed for the ‘Built Environment Support Programme (BESP) Round 3 Phase 2 Ward 6 Ward 3 (Swartland Municipality)’ study being co-ordinated by CK Rumbol and Partners on behalf of the Western Cape Government. This report is concerned with the specialist study ‘Swartland Rural Heritage Survey’- ‘Project 3’, being one of the components of the overall study. Ward 4 Ward 5 DARLING Ward 12

MALMESBURY

Ward 7

MAP OF SWARTLAND MUNICIPALITY

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2.0 METHODOLOGY research information involved making reference to additional records such as existing historical records, books and survey The Swartland Municipal Area extends over 3,692 sq. km, diagrams. The sites were also mapped with their location and divided into several wards. grading recorded on a GIS base.

The NHRA statutory legal framework of Section 34 provides SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE STUDY: general protection to all structures over 60 years in age. It was ESTIMATED NO. OF HERITAGE SITES (c1942) therefore necessary to identify potential heritage structures 1: 50 000 Topo-cadastral series Estimated number of potential and sites using available resources such as historic maps and (1942) covering the Swartland heritage sites (farmsteads and aerial photography. Municipal Area. other structures older than 60

The 1942-on series of 1:50,000 South African Government years) within the Swartland topo-cadastral survey sheets indicate the location of farm Municipal Area. buildings or farmsteads extant at that time. There are 13 Darling 3318 AB 84 sheets covering the Swartland municipal area. These were Porterville 3318BB 55 examined to locate potential heritage sites - refer to the table Malmesbury3318BC 84 below Moorreesburg 3318BA 112 Yzerfontein/Dassen 3318AC 19 The fieldwork included visiting the sites identified, and Philadelphia / Kalabaskraal 41 involved the recording, photographing and noting of the GPS 3318DA co-ordinates of the farmsteads and structures. Other features such as kraals, large and significant avenues and trees were Paarl / Wellington 3318DB 58 also noted. Piketberg 3218DD 2 Hopefield 3318AB 16 The data collected was collated and assigned according to Saldanha 3317BB and 3318AA 1 the relevant farm no’s, listed numerically and divided into the Mamre / Melkbosstrand 3318CB 5 respective wards in order to facilitate access to the Moravia 3218DC 37 information. Data for each property was entered onto a Riebeek-Kasteel 3318BD 142 standard survey sheet template, obtained from Heritage TOTAL 656 Western Cape, and adapted for rural conditions.

The final stages involved a desk-top study being an assessment of significance and proposed grading. Additional SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 3

3.0 LEGAL AND POLICY FRAMEWORK  The designation and management of heritage areas (Source: Provincial Spatial Development Framework , 2014, [Section 26(1), 31(1) (5)(7), 34(1), 47)];The identification of prepared for the Western Cape Government by heritage resources [Section 30(5)]; Oberholzer and Winter)  The integration of heritage into planning [Section (31(8), 28(6)];  The protection of heritage resources [Section 31(7)]; and National Heritage Resources Act (Act 25 of 1999) (NHRA)  The interpretation and use of heritage resources [Section (31(8), 44(1)]. General protections: The NHRA makes provision for the general protection of structures older than 60 years (Section Integration of heritage and planning: The NHRA enables and 34), archaeological and palaeontological remains (Section encourages the integration of heritage management and 35), and historical burials (Section 36). Section 38 of the NHRA planning functions. The provisions of Section 30 (5) and lists certain categories of development which will require a Section 31 are explicit with respect to the responsibilities of heritage impact assessment to be undertaken should the planning authorities to compile a heritage inventory of provincial heritage authority (HWC) have reason to believe heritage resources within their respective areas of jurisdiction, that heritage resources will be impacted. and to designate and protect “areas of environmental or Formal protections: Section 27 of the NHRA makes provision cultural value” as heritage areas. for the formal protection of heritage resources as a national Provincial Heritage Register: In terms of Section 30 (5) it is a or provincial heritage site, depending on whether they are requirement for a planning authority to compile an inventory deemed to be of Grade I or II heritage significance, of heritage resources within its area of jurisdiction and for this respectively. Grade III or local heritage resources are to be inventory to be submitted to the provincial heritage authority, protected under the provisions of local authority zoning i.e. Heritage Western Cape, which shall then consult with the schemes (Land Use Planning Ordinance), and should be owners of properties proposed to be listed on the provincial managed by the local authority once deemed to be heritage register and gazette the listing (Section 30 (7) and competent by the provincial heritage authority to take up (9). Thereafter, and within six months of this gazetting, the functions assigned to local authorities in terms of the NHRA. planning authority must provide for the protection and Local authority functions: There are numerous sections of the regulation of the listed heritage resources through the NHRA which set out what local authorities should do with provisions in the zoning scheme. respect to the identification, protection and management of heritage resources, including powers that can be conferred once the local authority is deemed competent. Specific sections of the NHRA make provision for:

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Heritage Areas: Section 31 (1) of the NHRA requires that “A sufficient to warrant protective measures. In other words, planning authority must at the time of revision of a town or these buildings and/or sites will only be protected if they are regional planning scheme, or the compilation or revision of a within declared conservation or Heritage Areas / Heritage spatial plan, or at the initiative of the provincial heritage Overlay Zones. authority where in the opinion of the provincial heritage resources authority the need exists, investigate the need for the designation of heritage areas to protect any place of environmental or cultural interest.” Where such a heritage area is designated in terms of a notice in a Provincial Gazette, either by a local authority or a provincial heritage authority, it is the responsibility of the local authority to provide for its protection through the provisions of planning schemes or by- laws under the NHRA.

Zoning Schemes under the Land Use Planning Ordinance

(LUPO): Heritage Overlay Zones

At the local level, the most effective means for protecting areas of heritage significance has been through the designation of Special Areas / Conservation Areas / Heritage Overlay Zones in terms of the provisions of their municipal zoning schemes.

HWC Recommended municipal zoning scheme by-laws With respect to the preparation of by-laws for the protection and management of Grade III heritage resources, HWC’s Short Guide to Grading suggests the use of model clauses for Grade IIIA and IIIB heritage resources, and also a model clause for creating Heritage Areas / Heritage Overlay Zones and regulating development within such areas. With respect to Grade IIIC buildings and sites, these would only be protected and regulated if the significance of the environs is

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4.0 OVERVIEW OF THE REGIONAL LANDSCAPE CONTEXT OF THE Winterberg. It also applies to areas possessing important SWARTLAND vegetation types, namely Swartland Alluvium Fynbos, (adapted from the Swartland Heritage Survey Vol 1 Report, Swartland Alluvium Renosterveld and Sand Plain Fynbos. compiled by the Swartland Survey Group in 2009) Extensive agricultural transformation of the landscape has resulted in these vegetation types becoming highly The Swartland Municipal area falls within two distinctive endangered. It is, therefore, ironic that the Swartland, which is regional cultural landscapes of the Western Cape, i.e. the said to have originally derived its name from the local Swartland and West Coast, including the Sandveld. While their Renosterveld that turned almost black in summer, has been characteristics are clearly discernable, their exact boundaries largely lost to cultivation, with approximately only 10% are less easily defined. In general terms, the West Coast and remaining. Swartland landscapes refer to the area located to the west of the Cape Fold Mountains or the Groot Winterhoekberg. More The Malmesbury shale soils, which stretch from Signal Hill on specifically, the West Coast includes the coastal stretch from the Cape Peninsula to just north of Pieketberg give rise to the Atlantis to Lambertsbaai. The Swartland includes the districts fine, or granular-leafed shrubs of genera such as Elytropappus of Malmesbury and Moorreesburg and stretches as far north (renosterbos), Eriocephalus (kapokbossie) and Stoebe as Piketberg, and as far west as Darling. The Berg River is (slangbos). These are the characteristic elements of considered to be the main artery. renosterveld as well as various grasses and a rich diversity of geophytic plants. As the name suggests it once supported The overriding characteristic of the study area is the broad large mammals like rhinoceros and Cape buffalo, which were expansive nature of the landscape, particularly to the west, still present in these hills in the 17th century. within which an intense pattern of agricultural subdivision has taken place, and a corresponding hierarchical nodal The Darling district is particularly well known for its fynbos and pattern of settlement ranging from regional centers to villages wild spring flowers with an annual flower show being held to farm werfs that has developed in response to water since 1917. resources, topography and movement routes. More detailed characteristics of the study area can be established in terms The Fossil Landscape of various landscape typologies and associated historical themes and periods. These are identified as follows: Highlights especially the area between Yzerfontein and Saldahna, which has fossil material spanning the last 5 million The Pristine Natural Landscape years. Near the harbour of Yzerfontein on the coastal cliff there is an deeply stratified shell midden site that predates This refers to the natural mountain backdrops provided by the 50,000 years, one of 4 known sites on the West Coast, which Paardeberg, Kasteelberg, Porseleinberg and Groot has revealed significant finds .

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Traditional Hunting and Grazing Grounds which links the regional centres of Cape Town, Malmesbury, Moorreesburg and Pietberg and which has its origins in the The landscape used by indigenous groups with a long history 19th century route to the interior. The railway line had a major of human occupation. Stone artefacts dating to the Early influence on settlement growth in the region. Both Kalbaskraal Stone Age (700 000 years ago) and the Middle Stone Age and Koringberg have their origins as railway sidings erected (150 000 – 30 000 years have been found in agricultural fields, on the Cape Town Malmesbury line at the turn of the 20th along river courses and mountain slopes. From 30 000 years century. Malmesbury was, and still is, a railway terminal – the ago the area was occupied by hunter-gatherers or railway station being strategically located alongside the Bushmen/San. 2000 years ago the Khoekhoen herders moved town’s flour mills and grain silos. into the region gradually displacing the San to the mountainous areas. The Agricultural Productive Landscape Associated with some of the earliest loan farms in the region Landscape of Colonial-Indigenous Trade and Contact dating to the 18th century, e.g. Hoogelegen c1709 near Koringberg. The particular soil patterns, climate and hydrology This describes the region providing an interface between the have given rise to a mosaic of cultivated farmlands, most San, Khoekhoen, and stock traders and farmers during the notably in the form of extensive wheatfields. The Swartland 17th century. VOC outposts established along the West Coast, developed into one of the country’s most important granaries including one near Yzerfontein, and others near Darling, were with grain silos and mills of regional strategic significance largely cattle posts located on the route used by Khoekhoen established in the towns of Malmesbury and Moorreesburg, for the movement of their stock between Table Bay and and with others of lesser, but nonetheless considerable local Saldahna Bay. Also included is the Berg River, forming the old significance in Koringberg and Darling. Today, these mills and eastern boundary of the settlement at the Cape and thus a silos provide distinctive landmarks within the largely flat or place of increasing contact and contestation during the undulating landscape of the region. Moorreesburg is home to latter half of the 17th century. This river today forms the the Swartland grain belt museum, reputedly one of only 3 eastern boundary of the Swartland municipal area. wheat industry museums in the world. Farming has now been substantially diversified and today the region is known for Landscape of Historical Routes cattle and sheep farming, horse breeding, fruit, flowers and viticulture – all of which have left their own distinctive mark on This describes the landscape as traversed by a network of the landscape. historical routes along which settlements have developed. These routes include the R27 linking the coastal settlements along the west coast which has its origins as an old cattle route between Cape Town and Saldahna Bay, and the N7

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The Landscape of Marine and Mineral Resource Exploitation outside Piketberg) and the Dutch Reformed Mission outstation of Hermon (across the municipal boundary on the opposite of The landscape of the West Coast, traditionally comprises a the Berg River, east of Riebeeck Kasteel). long chain of small fishing villages and holiday towns extending from Yzerfontein to Strandfontein. The West Coast The Landscape of Religion was a source of salt collection in the 18th century with natural salt pans occurring at Yzerfontein, Grootwater, Most of the towns within the region were established as Rheeboksfontein and as far inland as Burgerspan north of church towns to promote spiritual wellbeing of their outlying Darling. The salt from the area was regarded as the best in the communities, providing a central venue for the all-important Colony, and the first rough harbor at Yzerfontein was built in monthly ‘Nagmaal’ and christenings. The church provides a 1911 exclusively for the transport of this commodity to Cape significant landmark in the spatial layout of these towns. Most Town. Later, during the WW2 period, a whaling station was notably, these include Malmesbury, Moorreesburg, Riebeeck also established at this harbour. Kasteel, Koringberg and Darling, where the church building and steeple have remained central organizing and orienting The Landscape of Slavery elements within the townscape. Other important spatial manifestations of the church town are the rows of ‘tuishuise’ Agricultural production and the evolution of the layout of the or ‘nagmaalhuisies’ forming small-scale residential precincts farm werf up until the mid nineteenth century are some close to the church. Such precincts survive in Malmesbury and examples of the spatial manifestation of the history of slavery Moorreesburg. The earliest example of a church town in the in the region. The area is also historically associated with the study area is Malmesbury, which was established in 1743. 1808 slave and Khoi rebellion and the freedom march to Cape Town which started from the farm Vogelgezang The Landscape of Water located to the north of Malmesbury. Following the emancipation of slaves at the Cape from 1834 a number of Water has, understandably, played a major role in the pattern mission stations were established. For example, Abbotsdale of settlement within the region. Natural springs and has its roots as a late 19th century Anglican mission school watercourses determined the location and orientation of and settlement. Others, falling just beyond the municipal outspans and farm werfs, as well as the layout and growth boundary, but nonetheless important in obtaining a broader patterns of villages. For example, water played a key role in contextual overview of the regional landscape, include the shaping the grid layout plan for towns such as Riebeeck West historic Moravian mission station of Mamre (just outside the and Riebeeck Kasteel, which were configured to optimize municipal boundary south of Darling) the twin historic distribution of water. Another example is Abbotsdale, which Moravian mission stations of Wittewater and Goedverwacht has a linear development pattern generated by the typical (just beyond the municipal boundary north of Koringberg and mission station requirement of small agricultural allotments

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 8 along a river course. Watercourses have, therefore, played an The Scenic Landscape enduring role as structuring elements in the development of the region’s inland towns. This views the study area in terms of its high scenic quality and its associated historic scenic route network. It includes a The Landscape of Conflict combination of broad expansive views across flat coastal plain and undulating foothills, threshold conditions between This overlaps, to some extent, with the Landscape of Colonial- landscapes, views towards distinctive topographical features Indigenous Contact outlined in above, in which indigenous such as the Perdeberg, Porseleinberg and Kasteelberg and tribes were displaced from their traditional grazing lands and distant views towards the Cape Fold Mountain. Sense of hunting grounds by expanding colonial agricultural place qualities related to this region are primarily a function of settlement during the 17th and early 18th Centuries. This led to its extensive agricultural nature and extent to which the built conflict between early settlers and local tribes such as at form and the movement routes have responded to the Sonquasdrift on the Berg River. Early military outposts were natural and physical environment over time. established at Groote Post near Darling and Groene Cloof (located just outside the municipal area - now Mamre) by the Dutch East India Company, but later converted to agricultural Historic Townscapes posts as the threat of attack by indigenous tribes receded in later years. The region also contains the site of the most A number of historic towns are located in the study area. southerly fatal skirmish of the Anglo-Boer War on the farm These include: Malmesbury c1743; Moorreesberg c1898; Kraalbosdam north of Darling. Darling c1853; Abbotsdale c1856; Riebeeck West c1858; Riebeek Kasteel c1863; Kalbaskraal 1898; and Koringberg The Landscape of Displacement and Separation c1923.

This describes the landscape as affected by the displacement There are a variety of topographical conditions to which of indigenous people through colonial expansion, the settlements have responded over time. These include the relocation of farm labour into mission settlements during the mountain slope conditions of Riebeek West and Riebeek mid 19th century, and displacement of people under Group Kasteel and Koringberg, and the topographical dish Areas during apartheid. The spatial manifestations of the conditions of Moorreesburg, Malmesbury and Darling historical social and racial divides created during apartheid are clearly evident in most of the towns within the municipal area. The most striking examples of early to mid-20th Century apartheid planning can be found at Malmesbury, Moorreesberg and Darling.

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5.0 OVERVIEW OF THE SOCIAL AND CULTURAL HISTORY OF THE were largely cattle outposts, although salt collection took SWARTLAND place at the natural pans near Geelbek and Yserfontein. The (adapted from the Swartland Heritage Survey Vol 1 Report, road between the Cape and Saldanha Bay was already well compiled by the Swartland Survey Group in 2009) established by 1732.

The Swartland area had been used for centuries by the By the mid 18th century, the Swartland loan farms already transhumant pastoralists notably the Gorinhauqua and the extended as far north as Piketberg. In order to cater for the Gorinchaqua who grazed their herds of cattle and sheep in spiritual needs of these farmers; a church was established at the area and set up temporary settlements close to available Malmesbury. Until the mid 19th century, this was the only water sources. church in the area.

The Swartland has a long history of human occupation. Stone artefacts dating to the Early Stone Age (700 000 years ago) The historical origins of Malmesbury as a town should be seen and the Middle Stone Age (150 000 – 30 000 years ago) have in the context of the development of the Swartland generally. been found in agricultural fields, along riverbanks and This context would include the growth of agriculture (large mountain slopes. About 2000 years ago, Khoekhoe or herders grain) for which the Swartland was well suited, the continuing moved into the region. The Khoekhoen herds competed tradition of cattle farming, the availability of water, historic directly with the wild game for grazing and gradually the routes crossing the Swartland, and the needs of the church hunter-gatherers were displaced, moving to mountainous communities of farmers and workers. In addition, Malmesbury, areas unsuited to the Khoekhoe and their herds. like other very early settlements, was the result of a battle for grazing lands with the indigenous Khoi, who were displaced The VOC outpost Keert de Koe was established in 1659 at the from the area as early as the eighteenth century. mouth of the Salt River on the route used by the Khoekhoe to move stock between grazing grounds at Saldanha and trade Historical Significance: Malmesbury is of considerable local centre at Table Bay. Gonnema’s kraal was thought to be in historical significance as a church centre associated with the the vicinity of present day Riebeeck Kasteel. early development of the area, the early growth of agriculture, industry and trade. In particular, it is strongly By the beginning of the 18th century, VOC outposts had been associated with the grain industry. It is also historically established at Groenekloof (Mamre), Ganzekraal, and in the significant as an early town established in the heart of the vicinity of Riebeeck Kasteel. The purpose of these outposts Swartland, and as its municipal centre. were to acquire cattle and stock from Khoekhoe and supply the refreshment station at the Cape as well as the defense of In 1858 a split occurred in the Swartland congregation and the settlement from possible attacks. The West Coast outposts the Riebeeck Kasteel farmers broke away and a new church

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 10 and town was established at what is presently Riebeeck West. may have its roots in the 18th century VOC outpost that was The town is situated on parts of the farm Allesverloren (Fransen situated at the Riebeeks Kasteel. The exact location of the 2006:211). This town is shown on 19th and early 20th century outpost is unknown. maps as ‘Riebeeks Kasteel’ (refer Plate 9). The farm Cloovenburg, south of the village, at the turn off Social Significance: Social significance relates to the from the Malmesbury Road, has prominent landmark status association of the village as the birthplace of two South with its long white werf wall and the distinctive clump of stone African Prime Ministers, DF Malan at Allesverloren (1874) to the pines set within the vineyard setting. It functions as a gateway south and Jan Smuts at Ongegund (Boplaas) to the north or threshold into the adjacent village. (1870). Historical significance: Historical significance resides in the role of the village as a “Kerk Dorp” from 1863 and its location on Social significance also relates to the process of displacement the cattle grazing route from the Cape to the interior. The and racial segregation carried out in terms of the Group village may have its roots in the 18th century VOC outpost Areas Act in the 1960s. In 1963 the areas of Vinknes and that was situated at Riebeeck Kasteel, the exact location of Rooikamp were declared as white areas and the existing which is unknown. communities were moved to Vaallaagte. Grazing licenses were issued in the Koringberg area as early Historical significance resides in the role of the village as a as 1709, and the spring on the farm Brakwater was already in “Kerk Dorp” from 1858 when the town was established on use in 1709 as a communal source of water for the parts of the farm Allesverloren and its location on the cattle surrounding stock farmers. Koringberg was established in grazing route from the Cape to the interior. c1901 on Brakwater Farm (a portion of the farm Hooggelegen, which was granted in 1736 to Andreas Bester) after the railway line was completed. At that time, it was Noteworthy also is the social historical significance related to known as Warren’s Camp and consisted of a railway siding. It the farms in the immediate vicinity being the birthplace of was founded as a Dutch Reformed parish at the railway two former South African Prime Ministers, DF Malan at station but only formally proclaimed a township in 1923. Allesverloren to the south, and Jan Smuts at Ongegund (Pieterse: 1973). immediately to the north. Historical Significance: Its historical role as a railway and church town dating to the early 20th century. In 1863 another split occurred, resulting in the establishment of another church town at what is currently Riebeek Kasteel. This Archaeological significance: The potential archaeological town is situated on the cattle-grazing route to the interior and significance of Brakwater in terms of contact between

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 11 indigenous herders and early stock farmers. Subject to further increased accordingly. The emancipation of slaves in the research. 1830’s resulted in homeless former slaves looking for assistance and a livelihood and a number of mission settlements were Darling is named after Governor Charles Henry Darling who established throughout the Cape by a variety of Missionary arrived at the Cape in 1851. The town was established in a Societies and churches including the Anglican Church. shallow valley on land subdivided from the farm Langfontein Abbotsdale was similar to other mission like Zuurbrak in that in 1853 (the date when its first erven went on public auction congregants were given individual title to their land. and the first house built). Historical: Abbotsdale is an early mission settlement in the Historical Significance: Darling is of some local historical Swartland and as such is of considerable local historic significance as a rural centre associated with the dairy significance. It contains a number of cottages associated industry, and as an historic townscape containing significant with the early mission settlement, which are also of historical numbers of substantially surviving 19th and early 20th Century significance. period buildings and plantings. Spiritual/Social significance: Although no longer fulfilling a role as a mission town, Abbotsdale still has an active Anglican Social Significance: Darling is of some local social significance community and maintains its significance as a spiritual centre relating to its historic role as spiritual and commercial centre, of some local importance. as well as place of general social interaction for communities from outlying rural areas. During the middle of the 19th century, farmers in the area endeavoured to establish an outside North Church of the Abbotsdale is an early Anglican Mission settlement situated Zwartland Malmesbury congregation. F Warnich and Dirk 5km south west of Malmesbury. Bishop Gray established it on Kotze, then owners of the farm Hooikraal, each relinquished a the farm Olyphantsfontein. His wife Sophie Gray was piece of their land for church purposes. responsible for the designs of villages and churches throughout the Cape including St Thomas’ in Malmesbury Moorreesburg was established as a church town on this (now an Apostolic church). The farm was acquired in 1856 for portion in 1898 and was named in honour of the DRC minister the purposes of building a mission church and settlement on HA Moorrees (Lochner n.d.). the site. It was ideally suited to agriculture with well-watered The rail network reached Moorreesburg in 1902 (Bulpin lands in a gently sloping valley along the banks of the Diep 2001:243) and the town became a major centre for the milling Rivier. of wheat, with the landmark but derelict Pioneer Mill dominating the landscape . In 1972 the Wheat Industry The evangelical movement in South Africa was very active in Museum was opened in the town, reputedly one of only three the mid to late nineteenth century and missionary activity in the world.

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Historical significance: Its historical role as a church and The origins of Riverlands are unclear. The town ‘borrowed’ its railway town, and centre of the wheat industry dating from name from the nearby town of Chatsworth, which was the late 19th and early 20th century. It also contains one of originally to have been named ‘Riverlands’. It appears to only 3 wheat industry museums in the world. have originated as a small railway siding serving the Kalbaskraal/Darling line, constructed between 1898 and 1903. Kalbaskraal was founded in 1898 on subdivided remains of the farm Spes Bona. At that time, the site already contained Yzerfontein’s earliest association with the settlement at the an outspan. The town was established at a strategic railway Cape was as source of salt. As early as 1686, slaves from the junction between Malmesbury, Cape Town, and the VOC outposts were sent to collect salt from the pans at settlements and rural farming communities along the western Geelbek. A harbour was built in 1911 exclusively for the end of the Swartland. This junction therefore literally became transport of salt from Yzerfontein to Cape Town (Burden 2006). pivotal to the early 20th Century growth of settlements to the west of Malmesbury including Darling. Historical Significance: Its role as a holiday destination dating to the early 20th century in terms of its use as camping Historical/Social Significance: Apart from the railway precinct, destination for inland farmers and its formal establishment as a there is little of historical significance and nothing with known seaside resort town in 1937. Also in terms of its role as a association relating to historical events or personalities within popular surfing spot dating to the 1950s. the town. Archaeological significance: It is situated within a coastal Chatsworth is located on land obtained by the American zone of high archaeological and geological potential. Episcopal Church from the farm Michiel Heynskraal, and a Archaeological and palaeontological assessments should be mission church established in 1900. In 1907, the African Real a requirement for all proposed developments within this Estate Company acquired the farm Chatsworth and coastal zone. subdivided it into several thousand lots, although only a portion were sold, no doubt because the promised services A number of shipwrecks situated off the coast of Yzerfontein and infrastructure never materialized. The lots were bought, and nearby Dassen Island dating from the 17th century predominantly, by coloured people at the time. onwards. Historical/Social Significance: The little mission church complex at the eastern tip of the town is of considerable local As early as 1732, a grazing farm with the name Eijzerfontein historical and social significance. This site is thematically linked was leased to Cornelius Heufke. Jacob Alleman applied to to the town’s cemetery on Radnor Road a few blocks to the purchase the loan farm in 1795, but it is unknown whether this southwest of the mission chapel. was approved.

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The settlement of Yzerfontein was only formally laid out in 1937 by the Yzerfontein Seaside Estates, which was founded by At the time of the establishment of the refreshment station at Abraham Katz of Malmesbury. Prior to the formal the Cape by the VOC there was no cement available for establishment of the seaside resort town, Yzerfontein was a building purposes. The Dutch therefore built kilns to burn popular camping destination for Malmesbury farmers (Burden mussels to form a binding material to be used as cement. 2006). As with elsewhere in the country there is a long There are two lime kilns located on the R315, en route to historical association between farmers in the interior and the Yzerfontein. These were built in the 1940s by Mr B. Killa, a coast (an association which may even have its roots in the Milnerton building material merchant, and who made use of Khoekhoen migration patterns of moving cattle between the large amounts of black mussel shells washing up on coastal and interior grazing fields). Yzerfontein’s beach. They were still in use as late as 1976. These kilns are the only two remaining in South Africa and Numerous shipwrecks are located off the coast of Yzerfontein were declared national monuments in 1980. A replica (built to and nearby Dassen Island. Examples include the Haagman, scale of the actual size) is situated adjacent to the tourism which was a whaling ship grounded off Dassen Island in 1683, bureau in Yzerfontein (www. Yzerfontein.info; interpretative the Conservative which was a brig grounded off Yzerfontein display) in 1843 and the Prince which was grounded off Yzerfontein Point in 1890 (www.yzerfontein.info).

In the 1800s it was reported that whales were being hunted and caught off Dassen Island (just off Yzerfontein). It was during the First and Second World War periods that whaling factories were established around the coast of South Africa. Whale oil was used for the manufacture of explosives. Many of these continued to operate until 1967 when whaling was stopped worldwide. It was during the Second World War period that most of the harbour area at Yzerfontein was used as a whaling station with the foundations of some the buildings still remaining (www.yzerfontein.info). During this period, the town was also the location of one of the country’s top-secret radar stations run by the Special Signal Services, initially using South African radar sets developed at Witwatersrand University.

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6.0 OVERVIEW OF THE ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY OF THE Cape Herders had extended their range up the south east SWARTLAND coast to the Great Fish River and had acquired cattle through barter and intermarriage with the Xhosas of the Eastern Cape. Pre-colonial period The movement of these fairly large groups of people and their Little is known of the structures and encampments erected by flocks of sheep and herds of cattle created broad trails where the indigenous peoples, the Khoikhoi, who occupied the once only narrow paths existed. It has been suggested that Swartland prior to the arrival of the Dutch. The Khoikhoi were these stock trails became the basis of the Dutch East India transhumant pastoralists who moved about the Cape in Company (VOC) trading routes. They then became the search of grazing for their cattle. The area south of the Berg primitive road system of the Cape and many routes are still River between Vredenburg and Malmesbury was frequented used to this day. It is probable that the old route over the by the Cochoqua tribe. The Gorachoqua were to the south of Helshoogte Pass into the Dwars Valley was one of these the Diep River and moved between Cape Town, Stellenbosch ancient routes. and Wellington.The Cape Herders also used fire to burn off the low scrub to extend pasturage and encourage gasses to Accounts and sketches of the colonial explorers indicate that grow. Each year as the summer south-easters dried out the the Khoikhoi erected hemispherical huts of curved saplings grazing, they moved away from the coastal areas towards covered with reed mats. The matjieshuise of the Namaqua, the west coast. still being built today, are identical to the traditional houses of the Khoikhoi. These structures were dismantable and could be Unlike the San, who lived in small bands, generally fewer than loaded onto oxen for transport elsewhere. 50 persons in number, the Cape Herders lived in village settlements of often well over 100 persons. The round hut, or Early Colonial Period (1652- 1750) “matjieshuis”, made of a frame of green branches bent over In the first century of colonial occupation there was little and tied together, covered by reed mats, was the basic building of consequence in the rural districts of the Cape. The housing structure, quick to erect and dismantle. These annual Dutch were concentrating on establishing the Cape as a re- visits to the coastal areas would have centred on reliable fuelling station for the East India trade. At the same time the sources of water like the Berg River. rural frontiers were being pushed back by the graziers and trekboers hired by the Dutch to provide fresh meat and It is believed that the encampments, trails and ford crossings produce for the VOC Company and the growing settlement created by these peoples and their herds formed the basis for at the Cape. In 1750 it comprised 5,000 colonists, 6,000 slaves the routes that the early settlers and explorers used, and and 1,500 persons in employment of the Company. which later became the highways and byways of rural Swartland. By the time the first European settlers arrived, the Competition for the traditional grazing lands and watering

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 15 holes of the Khoikhoi, who were also reluctant to barter their Walled kraals for the safekeeping of stock were fashioned cattle in exchange for the trinkets offered by the Dutch, from packed stones. Some of these kraals are still in use today. resulted in numerous skirmishes between the Dutch and the More permanent simple dwellings were established on a Khoikhoi. The Company decided to establish several outposts similar basis, but with durable walls. These included reed (also known as veeposte or buiteposte) to provide protection panels, or wattle and daub, or ‘post and pan’ walls; - posts for the farmers with the first being established in the buried in the ground with non-load bearing infill panels. These Groenekloof (1682) area near Mamre. Names such as would have been supplanted by even more permanent Oudepost, Groote Post, Melk Post, and Kleine Post (1701) stone and mud-brick walls, giving rise of the format of the recall their origins. Recent excavations at Oudepost (near traditional 3-roomed, white-washed and thatched-roof Cape Langebaan) reveal a fort-like structure built out of stone. cottage, with its distinctive kitchen hearth and bakoond chimney projecting on the one end, which remains to this day From the early 1700’s the Company also granted grazing a fixture of rural architecture in the Western Cape. rights or loan-places in the Swartland area to individual farmers, and on former Company outposts. For example in Mention should be made of the use of the natural building the Kasteelberg area the farms Allesverloren and materials to be had and the influence these had on the Cloovenburg had been Company outposts before being development of the regional architecture. Along the coastal granted in 1704 to Gerrit Cloete and Jan Bothma respectively. strip (Sandveld) thatching reed would have been readily available while large timbers for spanning roofs would have The loan farm system did not guarantee security of tenure been virtually non-existent. The limestone and shell deposits and many of the trekboers lived out of their wagons. The on the coast would have facilitated the production of lime majority of the first country homes of the early settlers were mortar as a bonding agent and for the rendering of walls, most likely very rudimentary in nature. Bosdari says ‘men built whereas in the inland areas (Swartland) clay mortar would huts or even hovels, not homesteads’. A variant of the have relied upon. The shales of the Swartland valley floors matjieshuis was the hartbeeshuis, which was rectangular in provided a readily workable material for the construction of plan, and comprised poles bent over at the top and joined foundations and wall footings, whereas in the more with a long ridge pole, with corresponding poles joined by a mountainous regions the hard granite outcrops and tie-beam, resembling an up-turned boat. The structure could sandstones would have required much more effort to be be clad with reed mats, skins or thatch, - whatever was locally used. available. These structures were erected by both indigenous people and the trekboers, as well as by other travelers to the Middle Colonial Period (1750- c1850) hinterland. According to Walton this type of structure was still The simple homes and outbuildings of the country districts being built in the Sandveld in the late 20th Century. gave way to more elaborate homesteads and farmsteads in the second half of the 18th Century, and it is said that Cape

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Architecture reached its zenith in the period 1795 to 1825. This classical gable of Groote Post near Darling, dated 1808. was because there were various spells of prosperity at the Cape brought about by wars between the Dutch, French and The Cape farmstead had to accommodate a number of English, resulting in shortages for certain commodities (such as activities and often took on the form of a hamlet or mini- wine), and for the increased demand for fresh produce from village. In addition to the main homestead there was the passing ships and trade. In addition, from 1780 on the Dutch accommodation for other family members, employees and VOC Company was headed towards bankruptcy and started slaves that had to be provided. The second most important selling of its assets, resulting in numerous farms being sold to building was usually the wine cellar followed by stables, fowl private individuals. runs, dovecots and pigsties.

This condition of increased prosperity and private ownership In the early days these structures might have been erected in resulted in farmers being able to improve their properties and a haphazard fashion and as the need arose, resulting in a embellish their homesteads. Company farms and outposts loosely defined farm yard or werf. This was now often that had been established in the Swartland from the formalized to form a spatial composition, in the form of a beginning of the 18th Century, and situated in the Darling rectangular space or forecourt with the main homestead (Groenekloof), Kasteelberg, and Paardeberg areas changed usually at the head of the approach road, with on one side hands, and in the process were developed and upgraded. the farm yard (werf), enclosed by a low wall sometimes linking the various surrounding outbuildings together. The other side The modest rectangular structures of the earlier period were of the homestead invariably led onto gardens and orchards. either replaced or extended as longhouses, or added on in various ways to form more substantial T, H or U shaped Thus the Cape werf formed another distinctive element of homesteads. Floors were paved with Batavian tiles, and Cape Architecture. In the Swartland this can be seen in many joinery in the form of paneled doors and shutters was installed. places in a variety of forms including fairly recent Fine furniture including wall-screens and wall-cupboards was constructions. A notable early example is the long werf wall to commissioned. Decorative gables, a distinctive feature of be seen at Cloovenberg near Riebeek Kasteel. Cape Architecture, were added to facades. Another feature of the Cape werf was the bell-tower (also The Swartland was not an extensive wine-growing region, and known as a slave-bell or farm-clock), which regulated the its farmers were probably less prosperous than those in Paarl daily activities of the farm. Some historians have argued that and Stellenbosch, resulting in fewer and more modest this is derived from the VOC's maritime tradition. Agricultural interventions. Thus with few exceptions the Swartland is not production and the development of the farm werf at the known as a repository for ‘high’ Cape Architecture. Of gables Cape are linked to the practice of slavery, which was that have survived the centuries there is for example the neo- outlawed in 1834. Examples of bell-towers can be seen at

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Klawervlei, Ganzekraal and elsewhere. This rail network including bridges and sidings had a considerable impact on the rural landscape and led to the In the Swartland mixed agricultural farming practices expansion of existing towns such as Malmesbury, and the including the production of grain, dairy and stock farming establishment of new settlements such as Koringberg and gave rise to the building of stores, stables and milking sheds. Kalbaskraal. These were usually simple structures with stone and mud brick walls with pitched thatch roofs, often with open or half-open Commensurate with the expansion of the rail system was the sides opening onto walled kraals. These structures were later planting of sugar gums (eucalyptus cladocalyx) as adapted to accommodate corrugated iron roofing. plantations and along railways and roadsides, often forming shady avenues on the approach to the farms, or as stand- The need for a communal place of worship central to the alone trees within the farm yard. farming community led to the establishment of kerkdorpe, where farmers would overnight for the monthly nagmaal New industrial machinery was adapted to agricultural service. Riebeek-Wes, Riebeek-Kasteel and Darlling are production, such as the steam powered traction engines, examples of 19th Century kerkdorpe. During the hot summer used on farms to drive chaffing machines and other months and after harvesting, the grain farmers would repair to mechanical equipment. The ubiquitous farm windmill or the cooler coastal areas, where they would set up camp. windpomp as it was known was introduced, opening up new Sometimes they would take their cattle with them as the lands land to stock farming. now covered with wheat stubble afforded poor grazing till the next autumn rains. Fencing wire was introduced from about 1880 and this brought about significant changes to the agricultural Architectural and building traditions established during the landscape, in part replacing the need to construct mud and early part of this period were continued well into the latter stone kraal walls for the containment of domestic animals, part of the 19th Century. and also allowing for large camps to be established for pasturage, including field rotation. Later Colonial Period (1850-1910) In 1806 the British took possession of the Cape for the second The availability of cast iron building elements from the 1840’s time and their influence was to last for the next 100 years. The and corrugated iron sheeting from the 1860’s changed the discovery of diamonds in 1867 in Kimberley and later gold on face of South Africa’s colonial architecture. In the Swartland the Witwatersrand in the 1880’s brought about the the traditional thatched roofs began to be replaced with acceleration of colonial expansion and industry, including the corrugated iron, and buildings were extended with rapid expansion of the rail system. corrugated iron lean-to structures and verandahs.

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Many of the Cape gables disappeared and roofs were and form of farmhouse was continued with well into the 20th lowered to suit the lower pitch required, or walls were raised century. to provide additional attic storage or accommodation. This 20th Century often led to the character of the original architecture being Stylistically, the Cape Revival in architecture led by Herbert compromised, while at the same time it also created a new Baker and his protégés from the turn of the century found a layer and architectural typology. natural home in the adaption of the Edwardian villa, often with curvilinear gables incorporated in the front bay or bays The period also saw the introduction of other Victorian of the farmhouse, and other decorative features reminiscent architectural elements such as roof ventilators, cast-iron of Cape Architecture, such as moulded plaster parapet walls fireplaces and other decorative features. Cast iron columns, and stoep benches. brackets and balustrading, and timber finials and boards, were sourced from catalogues. Timber joinery, beams, ceiling Less fussy were mid- 20th Century homesteads built in the and flooring was also imported from overseas; Deal from modern idiom, replicating suburban homes of the 1950’s and Scandinavia and Douglas Fir from the USA. Corrugated iron 1960’s, often with face brick walls and low pitched roofs with sheeting was eminently suited for the cladding of agricultural wide eaves. These often seem out of place juxtaposed with sheds to house the new agricultural implements being the traditional farm buildings that surround them. introduced to increase agricultural production, and was also Functionalism also found a home in the barrel vaulted (and used for other purposes such as railway sidings and dwellings. other variants) timber trussed barns, that were built to store implements and produce. These were later replaced by steel In the countryside the Victorian villas that were being built in portal frame structures, often clad with asbestos cement the towns were replicated by those that could afford it. South sheeting. of Malmesbury there are two fine examples; Schoonspruit (c1900) with a turret and wrap-around verandah, and The establishment of the Wesgraan farmers’ co-operative in Vergenoegd, with two flanking stoepkamers and a cast iron 1912 and in 1920 the Bokomo flour mill led to the production verandah. of grain in the Swartland on an industrial scale. The large steel- framed and reinforced concrete structures of the flour mills The later Edwardian variant of the Victorian villa discarded and grain silos that were built in Malmesbury and many of its decorative and eclectic features in favor of a Moorreesburg form visually prominent landmarks in the more restrained look, with lower roof pitches and fewer landscape. Likewise the need for new large sheds and mouldings. However it replicated the same basic floor plan storage barns on farms was generated to accommodate and arrangement of a roofed stoep entrance leading to a agricultural machinery, and to store baled hay. The first central hall or passage, with flanking bed- and living- rooms, paraffin powered tractors were introduced before World War and service areas and outhouses located behind. This pattern 1, and these were extensively used to clear the renosterveld

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The 20th Century saw the introduction of new building materials and methods that have had an impact on the character of the rural architecture of the Swartland, often with negative results, aesthetically. These include steel window frames introduced from about 1920 (replacing timber window frames) and asbestos cement sheeting from about 1940 (which provided a more durable alternative to corrugated iron sheeting). These materials are in turn being replaced, for example, by newer and more fashionable materials such as aluminium window and door frames, and cement roofing tiles. Yet again, many of these changes appear to be inappropriate to their context. Many of these newer building materials and methods were employed to build worker’s accommodation and stores on the farms. A more recent development has been the growth of the wine industry, particularly large scale operations requiring new industrial sized maturation cellars. New wind turbines, stone quarries and the mining of building sand have also had an impact on the scenic quality of the rural landscape.

Unfortunately some modern attitudes and building practices coupled with ignorance and neglect have contributed to the erosion of much of the rich and diverse architectural heritage of rural Swartland. In the quarter century from 1970 on, Fransen notes the loss or ruination of no less than 10 important Cape homesteads in the Darling/ Malmesbury areas alone.

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7.0 RURAL SWARTLAND: HERITAGE THEMES, TRENDS AND 11/ Outstanding Scenic Beauty; undulating wheat and VULNERABILITIES grazing lands of the Swartland; semi-arid landscape of the HERITAGE THEMES: Sandveld. 1/ West Coast palaeontological fossil record. 12/ Recreation and Tourism: destination places, themes and routes; wild flowers, olives, wine and other places of cultural 2/ Pre-colonial archaeology and early inhabitants of the area, interest and scientific interest. early pastoralist sites at Kasteelberg. TRENDS AND VULNERABILITIES / THREATS: 3/ Early colonial history and settlements; agriculture in well- 1/ Infrastructural development: highways, power lines, wind th th watered fertile valleys and foothills late C17 early C18 . and solar farms.

4/ Early contact/ contestation between settlers and with 2/Agricultural practices: tunnel farming, bird netting. indigenous peoples; displacement of San and Khoekhoe. 3/ Agricultural operational changes: re-location of farm 5/ Cultivation and agricultural production; history of wheat labour to housing settlements, larger economic units leading farming and associated secondary industries. to consolidation /abandonment of smaller farms / redundancy or unsuitability of existing structures / lack of 6/ Slavery and labour; Farm werf and agricultural production maintenance of heritage fabric and resources. to mid C19th; sites ofslavery including 1808 Slave Revolt.

4/ Inappropriate development including suburban sprawl, 7/ Religion; C19th kerkdorpe. walled or security-fenced village/ townhouse and industrial 8/Routes and Transport; mountain passes- Botman’s Kloof; development; unsympathetic alterations and additions to early cattle and wagon routes, outspans; Railway heritage structures; filling stations and refreshment outlets or development in C19th, associated stations and development. large industrial type structures (sheds and wineries) poorly sited relative to scenic routes, ridgelines etc. 9/Military History; VOC outposts; southern-most point of SA Anglo-Boer War action, WW2 installations. 5/ Removal of benign or non-invasive “alien” trees, avenues and plantings. 10/Regional Architecture;Cape Dutch, Georgian, Victorian, Cape Revival, Art Deco; farm werf, ‘sandveld’ architecture and Swartland barns and verandah houses of the early C19th.

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8.0 CONSERVATION GUIDELINES

Significance of the Proposed Grading(s):

Proposed Grade 2: Important to the region; historical, cultural, scientific, social, including a site of slavery.

Proposed Grade 3A: Of high local significance. Intrinsic, associational and contextual qualities all present.

Proposed Grade 3B: Of local significance. Some intrinsic or associational or contextual qualities

Proposed Grade 3C: Of limited local significance (mainly contextual qualities).

No Grading proposed: No heritage resources identified.

Implications for development applications, alterations etc.

Proposed Grade 2: For any change, a permit is required from the heritage resources authority responsible. (e.g. PHS) (e.g. Heritage Western Cape)

Proposed Grade 3A: Would warrant any internal or external alteration or change to be regulated.

Proposed Grade 3B: Only external alterations / changes should be regulated

Proposed Grade 3C: Regulation only if significance of environs warrants it, or is part of a conservation area.

No Grading proposed: No regulation generally required unless the NHRA is triggered.

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SUMMARY TABLE: SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY : GUIDE FOR ASSESSING HERITAGE SIGNIFICANCE, DEVELOPMENT APPLICATIONS & RELEVANT LEGISLATION

GRADING CATEGORY GRADE 2 GRADE 3A GRADE 3B GRADE 3C NONE DEGREE OF HERITAGE Significance important to High local significance. Some local significance. Limited local significance No heritage resources SIGNIFICANCE the region; historical, Intrinsic, associational and Some intrinsic or (mainly contextual). identified. cultural, scientific, social, contextual qualities all associational or contextual including a site of slavery. present. qualities. STATUS PHS (Provincial Heritage Local Heritage Resources None Site= former National Monument). GENERAL GUIDANCE Permit required from the Would warrant any Only external alterations / Regulation only if No regulation generally FOR DEVELOPMENT heritage resources internal or external changes should be significance of environs required unless the APPLICATIONS authority responsible for alteration or change to be regulated. warrants it, or is part of a NHRA is triggered. any change. regulated. conservation area. LEGISLATION Section 27 of the NHRA Section 34 of the NHRA. APPLICABLE (National Heritage Section 34: “No person may alter or demolish any structure which is older than 6o years without a permit issued Resources Act of 1999) : by the relevant heritage resources authority “. “no person may destroy damage, deface excavate, Sections 38 of the NHRA. alter, remove from its 38. (1) Subject to the provisions of subsections (7), (8) and (9), any person who intends to undertake a original position, development categorised as— subdivide or change the (a) the construction of a road, wall, powerline, pipeline, canal or other similar planning status of any form of linear development or barrier exceeding 300m in length; heritage site without a (b) the construction of a bridge or similar structure exceeding 50 m in length; permit issued by the (c) any development or other activity which will change the character of a site— heritage resources (i) exceeding 5 000 m2 in extent; or authority responsible for (ii) involving three or more existing erven or subdivisions thereof; or the protection of such (iii) involving three or more erven or divisions thereof which have been consolidated within the past five years; or site”. (iv) the costs of which will exceed a sum set in terms of regulations by SAHRA or a provincial heritage resources authority; (d) the re-zoning of a site exceeding 10 000 m2 in extent; or (e) any other category of development provided for in regulations by SAHRA or a provincial heritage resources authority, must at the very earliest stages of initiating such a development, notify the responsible heritage resources authority and furnish it with details regarding the location, nature and extent of the proposed development.

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GENERAL PRINCIPLES FOR DEVELOPMENT ON HISTORIC FARMS IN RURAL AREAS AND ADJACENT SCENIC ROUTES (Adapted from the Scenic Drive Network Management Plan Review, Phase 1, prepared by Urban Design Services cc for the City of Cape Town, June 2014. The contribution of- ‘Development Guidelines for Rural Areas and Farms’, Stellenbosch Municipality, 2002, by Kruger Roos Architects and Urban Designers- to the formulation of these principles is acknowledged).

Development Controls to be formulated

-Inappropriate development which would alter the essential rural or agricultural scenic quality of a farm should be avoided (this includes golf estates and gated villages).

Place-making principles and siting of structures

-Alterations to existing heritage sites/ structures should be carefully considered in terms of visual impact.

-Existing farmsteads including the geometry and location of werf walls, tracks, field patterns, drainage and irrigation furrows, hedgerows, avenues, and windbreaks are to be respected.

-Where appropriate new development should relate positively to existing farmstead precincts.

-Development clusters with smaller footprints are preferred to spread-out and linear arrangements.

-New structures and development should be set back from scenic routes as far as possible.

-Structures should not be located in prominent positions such as on ridge lines.

-On sloping sites structures should be sensitively integrated in the landscape, parallel to ground contours. The siting of structures above a certain contour level should be avoided, and there should be controls with regard to the extent of and treatment of cut and fill for building platforms.

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-Large structures should be sited in visually less sensitive areas and screened with appropriate planting.

Architectural character, appropriate materials and finishes

-Architectural character (form and aesthetic quality) should be visually neutral consisting largely of visually submissive or recessive “background” buildings, in keeping with vernacular architectural traditions, and without resorting to fake copies of historical styles (Cape Dutch, Victorian, etc.).

-Natural materials and walls plastered and painted white/ earth tones are preferred.

-Roofs with dark recessive colours (charcoal, black, grey) are preferred.

-New structures should not overshadow places of heritage significance (such as homesteads, ‘werfs’ and their outbuildings), and those that are focal points in an historic rural setting.

-Building heights should be kept as low as possible.

-Building footprints should be kept small and simple in shape with corresponding plain roof forms.

-Large buildings and complexes should preferably be broken up visually into smaller components.

Boundary walling, fencing and gateways

-Should be in keeping generally with a visually neutral architectural character, and be visually permeable.

-High, solid or palisade-type walling, and any form of precast panel type fencing should be avoided. Low walling where used should be plastered /painted white to earth tones.

-Where security fencing is required it should be screened with trees or hedging.

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-Gateways where required should be set back from the boundary, and should be visually simple in design.

Landscaping

-Should be appropriate to a rural context with the emphasis on place -making and reducing visual impacts.

-Parking areas which may be visible from any scenic routes should be screened from view.

Signage and Lighting

-Information signage adjoining scenic routes should be simple and discrete, in keeping with the architectural character.

-New lighting should be discrete with potential impact on any scenic route carefully considered.

Development Controls to be formulated

-Inappropriate development which would alter the essential rural or agricultural scenic quality of a farm should be avoided (this includes golf estates and gated villages).

Place-making principles and siting of structures

-Alterations to existing heritage sites/ structures should be carefully considered in terms of visual impact.

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-Existing farmsteads including the geometry and location of werf walls, tracks, field patterns, drainage and irrigation furrows, hedgerows, avenues, and windbreaks are to be respected.

-Where appropriate new development should relate positively to existing farmstead precincts.

-Development clusters with smaller footprints are preferred to spread-out and linear arrangements.

-New structures and development should be set back from scenic routes as far as possible.

-Structures should not be located in prominent positions such as on ridge lines.

-Large structures should be sited in visually less sensitive areas and screened with appropriate planting.

Architectural character, appropriate materials and finishes

-Natural materials and walls plastered and painted white/ earth tones are preferred.

-Roofs with dark recessive colours (charcoal, black, grey) are preferred.

-New structures should not overshadow places of heritage significance (such as homesteads, ‘werfs’ and their outbuildings), and those that are focal points in an historic rural setting.

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-Building heights should be kept as low as possible.

-Building footprints should be kept small and simple in shape with corresponding plain roof forms.

-Large buildings and complexes should preferably be broken up visually into smaller components.

Boundary walling, fencing and gateways

-Should be in keeping generally with a visually neutral architectural character, and be visually permeable.

-High, solid or palisade-type walling, and any form of precast panel type fencing should be avoided. Low walling where used should be plastered /painted white to earth tones.

-Where security fencing is required it should be screened with trees or hedging.

-Gateways where required should be set back from the boundary, and should be visually simple in design.

Landscaping

-Should be appropriate to a rural context with the emphasis on place -making and reducing visual impacts.

-Parking areas which may be visible from any scenic routes should be screened from view.

Signage and Lighting

-Information signage adjoining scenic routes should be simple and discrete, in keeping with the architectural character.

-New lighting should be discrete with potential impact on any scenic route carefully considered.

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9.0 OVERVIEW OF FINDINGS

1/ Existing Provincial Heritage Sites (see Annexure 1) –proposed Grade 2 sites. There are only 8 existing sites in the study area; 4 farms/homesteads, 2 lime kilns, and 2 survey beacons. It is proposed that these are retained, and that they be provisionally assigned a Grade 2 grading. However this needs to be ratified by the heritage authority responsible. In support of their proposed Grade 2 status, the following is put forward:  The farms/ homesteads of Bokkerivier, Groote Post and Klawervallei are all in proximity with each other and form part of a group. They are all sites connected with slavery. Groote Post and Klawervallei were important VOC outposts, and Groote Post became a centre for agricultural experimentation including the manufacture of agricultural implements in colonial times. All the farms are connected to the Duckitt family, a prominent family in the region.  Ongegund was the birthplace of Jan Smuts, one of South Africa’s foremost statesmen.  The two limekilns are rare surviving examples of what would have been commonplace at one time; they are of technological and cultural significance.  The 2 survey beacons are of considerable scientific interest and are connected to the pioneering work of the astronomers LaCaille, Everest and Maclear. It is understood that they are also being considered for World Heritage status.

2/ Proposed additional Provincial Heritage Sites No additional Provincial Heritage Sites are proposed as such. However it is recommended that the authorities undertake further research in relation to certain sites in the Swartland that are connected to the failed 1808 Slave Rebellion, as it is believed that there may be sufficient grounds for these to be given Provincial Heritage status. These include the farm Vogelgezang (where the rebellion began), and other farms in the region (Oliphants Fontein, Callebaskraal, Drooge Valley and Wolwedans). Farms in the Koeberg and Tygerberg areas were also invaded by the rebels.

3/ Heritage and Economic Development Agriculture and tourism are the mainstays of the Western Cape economy, and the Swartland Municipality and other authorities can make an important contribution to furthering economic development by:  Promoting tourism to the area generally.  Protecting the cultural landscapes from negative visual impacts, particularly along scenic routes in the region. Reference should be made to the Heritage and Scenic resources study component of the PSDF, prepared by Oberholzer and Winter for the Western Cape Government.  Promoting local agro-tourism through such as the development of guest cottages on farms, and providing incentives to conserve heritage structures on farms for adaptive reuse for tourism purposes. There are many abandoned structures and structures no longer required for agricultural production that could be used for such purposes.

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10.0 REFERENCES

G., L. and N. Athiros, and Turner: A West Coast Odyssey. Historical Media cc , 2009. G., L. and N. Athiros, and Turner: Riebeek’s Castle. Historical Media cc , 2011.

Boonzaaier, E, Malherbe, C, Smith, A & Berens, P. 1996. The Cape Herders: a history of the Khoikhoi of Southern Africa. David Philip, Cape Town.

Hans Fransen: The Old Buildings of the Cape. Jonathan Ball, 2004. Hans Fransen: Old Towns and Villages of the Cape. Jonathan Ball, 2006.

C. De Bosdari: Cape Dutch Houses and Farms. AA Balkema, 1971.

Kruger Roos Architects and Urban Designers; Development Guidelines for Rural Areas and Farms’, Stellenbosch Municipality, 2002,

Oberholzer and Winter ; Provincial Spatial Development Framework , Heritage Resources and Scenic Routes, prepared for the Western Cape Government 2014

Pretorius: Our Threatened Heritage. Andre Pretorious, 1997

Ross, G, 2002. The Romance of Cape Mountain Passes. David Philip Cape Town

Swartland Heritage Survey Group: Swartland Heritage Survey (Urban Areas) Vol. 1, 2009.

James Walton: Cape Cottages. Intaka (pty) Ltd., 1995. James Walton: Old Cape Farmsteads. Human and Rousseau (Pty) Ltd., 1989.

Worden, van Heyningen, Bickford-Smith: Cape Town The Making of a City. David Philip,1998.

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ANNEXURE 1: LIST OF PROVINCIAL HERITAGE SITES IN THE RURAL AREA OF SWARTLAND MUNICIPALITY (source: SAHRA)

Ward SAHRA File Site Date Gazette Description

W6 9/2/112/0010 Eastern Terminal Beacon of Sir Thomas Maclear's 1991-08-30 The eastern terminal point beacon of Sir Thomas Maclear's Zwartland Zwartland survey base line, Geelekuil 432 (Eendrag), survey base-line, together with four metres of surrounding land, situated on Moorreesburg District Portion 10 of the farm Geelkuil 432 (now known as the farm Eendrag), in the Division of Malmesbury.Deed of Transfer T9744/1991.

W5 9/2/060/0010 Groote Post, Malmesbury District 1979-08-10 The property, with the historic buildings thereon, being certain piece of land sitaute in the Division of Malmesbury, being the remaining extent of the consolidated farm Groote Post and measuring one thousand one hundred and three comma nought nought no

W5 9/2/060/0014 Lime kiln, De la Rey, Malmesbury District 1979-11-23 The historic lime kiln with three metres of surrounding land, situated on certain freehold land, being the remainder of Portion Jacobus Kraal A of the farm Jacobus Kraal (now known as De la Rey), situated at Darling in

W5 9/2/060/0015 Lime kiln, Jacobus Kraal, Malmesbury District 1980-01-04 The historic lime kiln with 25 metres of surrounding land, situated on certain piece of freehold land, being Portion 3 (a portion of Jacobus Kraal of the farm Jacobus Kraal, situate at Darling, in the Division of Malmesbury.

W3 9/2/060/0017 Birthplace of General Smuts, Ongegund, Malmesbury 1975-04-18 The house where Gen. Smuts was born situate on a certain piece of land, District partly abolished quitrent land and partly freehold land, in the Division of Malmesbury, being the farm Ongegund A, and measuring six hundred and seventy-four (674) morgen.

W6 9/2/060/0021 Swartland survey beacon, Klipvlei, Malmesbury 1980-10-17 The historic beacon, which forms the western terminal point of the Zwartland survey base line, together with four metres of surrounding land, situate on certain piece of redeemed quitrent land, near Darling, in the Division of Malmesbury.

W5 9/2/060/0022 Bokkerivier, Bokbaai, Malmesbury District 1971-11-19 Certain piece of freehold land, called Bokke Rivier or Buck Bay, situate north of Table Bay, in the Division of Malmesbury (now described as the farm Bokkerivier 733), measuring 1 258 morgen

W5 9/2/060/0029 Klawervallei, Malmesbury District 1996-10-04 The homestead, the slave-bell and the historical outbuildings, together with a portion of the farmyard, being within a radius of 100 (one hundred) metres from the apex of the front gable of the homestead, situated on the Remainder of the farm Klaver Valley 727, in the Division of Malmesbury. Deed of Transfer T53732/1988, dated 15 September 1988.

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ANNEXURE 2: REFERENCES TO HISTORIC HOMESTEADS IN THE RURAL WARDS OF SWARTLAND MUNICIPALITY (FRANSEN : ‘A GUIDE TO THE OLD BUILDINGS OF THE CAPE’ HANS FRANSEN; JONATHAN BALL, 2004)

WARD 3:

ONGEGUND (Fransen p 327) “This modest homestead, 7 km north of Riebeek-West, consists of a long row of rooms with small casement windows and, under the same roof, some workshop rooms. It has a thatch roof and hipped ends. It was probably a modest second dwelling on a farm that also had a T-shaped homestead. Its chief claim to fame is the fact that it was the birthplace of Gen. JC Smuts in 1870. Smuts' great grandfather, Michiel Nicolaas Smuts, bought the property in 1815 and, though the building had been attributed to his grandson Michiel Nicolaas Smuts, on style it seems to date from c18I5. The restoration of this house (which is on the premises of a cement factory) proved a litany of delays and misunderstandings, in which an architect was appointed in 1968 but the trust fund set up to finance it was wound up in 1980 without any work having been done and the house having fallen into serious disrepair. A new architect (GT Fagan) was appointed in 1984 and the restoration completed in 1986, Iargely financed by the cement factory. The complex, which includes flat-roofed outbuildings at right angles to the house, is open to the public and - now includes a walled “fyntuin'' [Fagan p609]. “

ALLESVERLOREN (Fransen p 326) “This farm was originally a Company's outpost, and was granted to Gerrit Cloete in 1704. According to tradition its name was given after Bushmen had burnt down the house. The farm became the property of Daniel Francois Malan in 1872. His son, later to become prime minister, was born there. The H-shaped homestead (grown from a three-room Ionghouse via a T-shape) has been Victorianised with arched-top 'Stellenbosch' sashes and fielded plaster surrounds. The house, with iron roof but end-gables, has since been refurbished by G Fagan, but without sacrificing its Victorian appearance. Next to the house stand two outbuildings, one, a typical cellar with arched openings, placed behind the other, clearly of great age. From the stoep there is a stunning panorama; a long white werfmuur runs in front along the road.”

WARD 4:

PAPKUILSFONTEIN (Fransen p339) “Like its neighbour, Nieuwepost, this homestead is undoubtedly older than its gable, which is triangular and dated 1874. It stands on quitrent land granted in 1875 to IAJ de Villiers, whose initials, I de V appear on the gable. The house is thatched and has a wide U-shaped p1an. The woodwork and the straight end-gables are contemporary with the front-gable”.

NIEUWEPOST, now Nuwepos (Fransen p 339) “A charming house standing on land granted to Egbert Andries Buyskes in 1838. It is T-shaped, with a long facade, half-hipped ends and a triangular front-gable dated 1859; the external woodwork also dates from this time. Little is known about the history of the house, but it seems likely that Buyskes built it at the time of the grant or even, as was frequently the case, a few years before.c1830; houses with wing-type plans

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 47 were rarely built in 1859. Gable and windows probably date from the time of the first rethatching. There is an outbuilding, also thatched. The little complex is pleasantly situated on rising ground, with a grassy slope in front.”

LEEUKUIL (Fransen p 345) “The present homestead is modern (or so it looks, but apparently the face-brick shell encloses much older fabric from which single-panel doors were removed not long ago). But an older building now used as an outbuilding retains an elaborate winged gable without pilasters but with a pediment (which has small ‘thumb wings' at its base). The roof is of iron, and the woodwork late-l9th-century except for the gable-window, which has small panes and is probably contemporary with the sable, c1820.”

DRIEHEUWELS .(Fransen p 345) “On the N7 south of Moorreesburg, a simple house, now a shed, with hipped iron roof and retaining a high-shouldered centre gable dated 1831.Roughly in line with it on the right, iron-roofed stables between straight gables.”

RONDEVLEI (Fransen p 317) “A hipped thatched house with small square and pedimented gable, T-shaped and built on 1817. It has a symmetrical front, steps at one end, an outside chimney at the end of the tail, and outbuildings in line with the homestead.”

WARD 5:

COMMERCIALDALE (Fransen p 335) “This odd name seems to be the original name of this house on the Darling-Mamre road, and refers to its one-time use as a shop and inn.It is a thatched house, rectangular, with half-hipped ends and a dormer gable, and probably dates from c1840. It is now being restored to be turned into an artist’s home-cum-gallery.”

GROOTE POST (Fransen p 335) “The Company also had a post just north of Groenekloof (Mamre). It was a military post at first, but as time went on, farming became the chief activity, and De Groene Kloof became the centre of a group of almost three dozen Company farms. In 1791, when the Company sold as many of its properties as it could, most of these farms were not sold. They passed into the possession of the British government and are named in the interesting inventory of possessions (see Theal's Records, Vol. I) handed over at the time of the first occupation of the Cape. When De Groene Kloof became a mission station, a new centre was needed for the group. Groote Post therefore took the place of the former farm. There were already several buildings on it, but we know little about them. The present homestead is dated 1808; at least its front-gable was built in that year (the back gable is a replacement). William Duckitt lived here briefly, before being instructed to leave the farm by Charles Somerset; he then bought Klavervallei. Tradition has it that the house was built in 1792; there is at present no way of verifying this statement, but there may well have been a house here since 1752. The house has a narrow, three-bay H-shape, though the 'crossbar' is flat-roofed. The front stoep - really only a part-width 'bordes' with a double flight of steps - is very high; there is a basement that is almost a ground-floor. The end-gables consist of a

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 48 succession of curves, surmounted by an unusual small rectangular cap. The front door and windows are original, but the full-height louvred shutters are later. There are no half-width windows. The ceilings are intact. There is also a curious and highly unusual change of floor level in the house. Very likely this, as well as other irregularities, indicate that the two halves of the house are of different dates. Attached to one of the back wings of the house is a long row of subsidiary buildings, one a well-preserved cellar. The house is one of the few places that really were used by Somerset, governor 1814-28. The fireplaces, an uncommon feature for a Cape homestead, can possibly be accounted for by his not-infrequent visits. During this time some of the outbuildings may have been erected. By a twist of irony; in 1838 William Duckitt's son Frederick (father of Hildegonda) became the owner. [CTPS p106. Brooke Simons p240. Fagan p595.].”

KLAVERVALLEI, Klawervlei (Fransen p. 335-6) “Now also known as Groote Post Cellar. The first mention of this farm was as early as 1701, when grazing rights there were granted to Johannes Starrenburgh, magistrate of Stellenbosch. In 1791 it was given on loan to Sebastiaan Valentyn van Reenen and his brothers (see also Ganzekraal). As a quitrent grant of over 2 500 morgen in 1815 it became the property of William Duckitt (see also Groote Post). Further grants were made to him, one on the same day and one in 1817, increasing the area. The homestead, which has the shape of an H with the left back wing missing represents various stages of older development; the body of the house, perhaps originally T-shaped, is undoubtedly older than the date of the grant. It was probably the work of Van Reenen, for Lichtenstein in 1803 stated it had been built not long before. Duckitt in 1815 (or soon after) must have added a back wing, and built the end-gables (they are a kind of holbol inverted, in which the lower curves join each other at the top to form a large semicircular cap). The gable at the back of the original T was left straight. From this time probably also date the transitional sash-windows with half-shutters in front; they rather dwarf the flush casements flanking the door. The space between the two parallel wings was filled in at an earlier date, to judge by its flush sash-windows. The broad-shouldered square and pedimented front-gable is mid- 19th- century, and was probably added by W Duckitt, jr, who owned the farm until 1875 (the farm remained Duckitt property until 1957). The house has since been renovated, the veranda removed, and the gable replaced with a bell-gable. A simple bell-tower stands atop a gigantic rocky outcrop. A plain outbuilding opposite the homestead was once a VOC 'fort'; it was converted into a modern wine cellar, its tall facade with Neoclassical gable, high single casements and shooting slots reinstated according to an Elliott photograph. Another outbuilding, next to the homestead, was re-erected on old foundations. [Sleigh p517 Fagan p603]. “

PAMPOENVLEI (Fransen p. 336) “Halfway between Groote Post and Klawervlei, and originally on the latter farm, a small T-shaped homestead is being restored, or partly re- erected, with thatch roof and casements. Its adjoining outbuilding is also largely new.”

GANZEKRAAL (Fransen: p 336-7) ”This farm was one of the large group of Company's farms centered on the Post at Groenekloof. It was known by its present name, Ganse Kraal bij de Groene Cloov, from 1709, when it was a loan-place granted to Martin Mecklenburg. By 1724 it had become a VOC cattle post. It was one of the farms that the Company managed to sell in 1791 when faced with imminent bankruptcy. It was transferred to three partners, viz. the brothers Jan Gysbert, Sebastiaan Valentyn and Jacobus Arnoldus van Reenen, jointly. In 1799 the shares of the last two were acquired by a fourth brother Jacobus, and it is obvious that at some date not yet traced he must have possessed himself of Jan Gysbert's share, too. In 1814 Catharina Versveld, the widow of Jacobus van Reenen, transferred Ganzeksaal, together with part of Modderrivier and Buffelsrivier to Francis

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Dashwood, who in that year got a re-grant. In 1818 he transferred the farm to Jacob van Reenen, Jacob /sn. The buildings at Ganzekraai are very interesting. They stand round an enclosed forecourt. The two most important are the homestead and the outbuilding alongside. The former is F-shaped with a flat-roofed wing projecting forward and a square, pedimented gable dating from the l840s. A plan by Josephus Jones of 1791 shows it as T-shaped. The external woodwork, Georgian, dates from the same period as the gable. The outbuilding has a matching gable and a thatch roof like the homestead. Between both buildings is a small paved courtyard, with a bell-tower in front and, at the back, a pigeon-house of a type not unlike, though smaller than, that at Coornhoop, under a lean-to thatch roof and with three arched openings below and a smaller arched opening above each of them. It is too plain for a (tentative) attribution to Thibault, who was often at nearby Groote Post 1807/12. The charming outbuilding on the left of the homestead has no gable; its great length is broken by several supporting buttresses. A watercolour done by GM Smith in 1864 shows it had a gable similar to that of the homestead. That the homestead and most outbuildings are much older than the gables and external woodwork, is obvious. But when and by whom were they built? Lewcock gives c 1806 as its date (but does not give his source); but a sketch by Lady Anne Barnard, c 1798 (on which the gables are shown as holbol), shows that they are decidedly earlier than 1806. The external woodwork, as we saw, was replaced c1840, and was therefore probably considerably older than 1798. The end-gables are early- straight, also pointing to an earlier date. The walls are likely to be earlier still. The buildings were almost certainly Company's stores and barns, of which one was converted into a dwelling. There are records of building activities here in the year 1724. Most of the complex burnt out almost completely in 1965; no attempts are being made to have the homestead re-built, although most walls have been left standing. The dovecot and adjoining outbuilding were saved and have been rethatched. [CTPS p86. CT Phot. Soc. 'Ganzekraal in ruins' 1966. Lewcock fl53. ObhoIzer p274. Fagan p257. Sleigh p510.] “.

BOKRIVIER or Bokbaai (Fransen p. 337) “A most attractively situated thatched homestead with a simple holbol gable and late-straight end-gables standing on land granted in quitrent to Laurens Johannes and Jacobus Petrus de Jong; the survey by J Knobel accompanying the grant is dated 1827. But its history is thought to go back to early VOC times, and the house may have served to house the supervisor of the limekiln that operated there from the early 18th century, together with labourers' quarters. Since 1870 it has been a Duckitt farm. The house has casement windows (outward opening, with internal board-and-batten shutters) but the simple moulding of the front-gable cannot be dated at before 1800. The house is T-shaped, with a long outbuilding, also l8th-century, attached to its front, forming a total length of 45 m. The ocean virtually comes up to the very doorstep of this house, which is only inhabited for part of the year (during the holiday season). This unusual situation for a Cape Dutch homestead is made possible by the fact that the bay, Bokbaai, is extremely sheltered. AIso close to the shore is a rectangular flat-roofed stone building thought to have been a gaol but more likely used to house slaves employed in burning lime. A stone cottage diagonally behind the present homestead may be the oldest building around. The entire farm is now a nature reserve. [CTPS p 68. Fagan p603. GT Fagan unp. rep.2000].“

WAYLANDS (Fransen p 339) “This farm 5 km south of Darling, originally Karnemelksfontein, acquired its English name in 1862 when it was acquired by William Ferdinand Duckitt; the Duckitt family still owns the farm. It is a rambling complex of much-altered but still interesting old buildings. The main, tree-shaded homestead is still thatched and TT-shaped (perhaps grown from a T), the space between its two hipped back-wings now closed up. One of these wings is of late- 19th-century date, and a 'stoepkamer' wing at one side of the front was added in the 1920s. Most of the woodwork has

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 50 been much altered. Alongside the old homestead stands a rectangular house, two rows of rooms deep, dated 1892 on its (later) gable. A long iron-roofed outbuilding is early- 19th-century in date. One outbuilding still retains its hipped thatch roof. Also on the farm, nearer the road, there is a picturesque group of volkshuisies, fairly unique in being in the vernacular, mid- 19th-century style. One still has its hipped thatch roof; though in bad condition; the others have had iron placed over their thatch. “ OUDE POST (Fransen p 339) “Just south of Darling, a rectangular house, two rooms deep, with a square and pedimented gable dated 1860 and carrying the initials NJB. Its windows and six-panelled door date from the same time. The house has been well restored.” THE TOWERS (Fransen p 339-340) “This house, strikingly situated on the slopes of Kapokberg a few km from Darling stands on land that was once called Driepapenfontein, granted to Jacob van Reenen on a leasehold which expired in 1838. Its name probably refers to a clump of three large boulders nearby that could be thought to resemble 'papies' or chrysalides. It is TT-shaped and certainly older than its mid- 19th-century doors, windows and triangular gable. The end walls of its front section are about 12 degrees out of perpendicular. In the two stubby back wings this angle has only been partly rectified. (An apocryphal story has it that Van Reenen had boasted that it would take him a hundred days to build the house, which he managed to do but not without it showing in the workmanship!) There are additions at the back. Van Reenen was probably the builder of the house sometime early in the 19th century, with its front part perhaps much older. Both the triangular front-gable and the facade woodwork are mid l9th- century and probably the work of Charles John Duckitt, c1870. The farm remained in the possession of the Duckitt family until 1990. The new name they gave it must relate to its elevated position, overlooking vast stretches of undulating Swartland country, or might else simply be a translation of the original name. The present owner has rethatched the house and laid down a brandsolder. ICTPS. N van der Westhuizen.] “

DOORNFONTEIN also Doornrivier. (Fransen p 340) “This T-shaped house stands on a quitrent grant to L van Renen in 1838. It may date from long before the time of the grant, though the triangular front-gable and the woodwork of the facade date from about 1860. It is still a charming little homestead, long neglected but now again cared for, and lies in paradise-like surroundings in a small valley running towards the sea. There are two outbuildings, one of them thatched. The farm now forms part of the adjoining farm, Smalpad.”

DROOGEVALLEY, Droevlei. (Fransen p 340) “This farm was a quitrent grant made in 1842 to WE Thuysma. The present house, dated 1861, has lost all character. On its werf stands a flat- roofed building, now an outbuilding, which is said to have been built by Thuynsma before he got his grant”.

ZWARTWATER also Swartwater (Fransen p 340) “A quitrent grant made to the same WE Thuynsma in 1833.The homestead is TT-shaped and must have been built before the time of the grant, perhaps about 1820, although the square gable with moulded pediment is dated 1849. The house has been renovated and given a slate roof; windows, door and door surround are of the pre-1820 type but modern. The sugar-stick chimney, too, is new.”

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LIMEKILNS, Yzerfontein (Fransen p 340) “Close to the Darling road, a few, km out of Yserfontein and separated by several hundred metres, are two domed limekilns, used to burn the black mussel shells found at the beach nearby One, to the south of the road, stands on Jacobus Kraal and was built by one Abrahamse from Malmesbury. The other, to the north of the road, on the farm De la Rey, was operative until 1963. Both kilns consist of an open cylinder of about 5 m diameter, with walls about 80 cm thick and 1,50 m high, in which the shells were layered with wood and fired for two days. They have a 'rooster' (grid or sieve) at the bottom and a 'bek' (opening) to rake out the Iime, which would then be slaked and sieved. There were once several other such limekilns in this area, as well as several at Yzerfontein itself [G Faqan 'Kalkbrandery tydens die Kompanjiestyd aan die Kaap' Restorica 11, July 1982 p37. J Walton 'Early Cape lime kilns’ Journal C+AH l987].”

SLANGKOP “Some 11 km north-west of Darling stands a late, rectangular and two-rooms-deep house with loft-windows, dated 1880. Some time later it was given huge Constantia-type end-gables and a Morgenster front-gable. There are some outbuildings standing about. The Tienie Versfeld Flower Reserve is on this farm.”

WARD 7:

WOLWEDANS (Fransen p 317) “This now tile-roofed homestead has the shape of an asymmetrical TT, the left tail with a side wing giving the impression from that side of an incomplete H. Its gable has been rebuilt, but still bears the date 1763 and the initials DVW and SVVA. The front door and flanking sashes are Georgian, c1830, but few other features of interest remain.”

BLYDSCHAP (Fransen p 317) “The homestead is an H-shaped house that was considerably altered after a fire in 1928. The narrow side-courts have been covered by allowing the thatch roofs of both back wings to meet. The front gable is dated 1802, but it has been re-built. The ends are late-straight and rather low- pitched. Next to the homestead stands a thatched outbuilding with half-hipped ends, untouched by the fire. Several lengths of werf wall remain.”

ROZENBURG (Fransen p 321) “This interesting farm, just outside Malmesbury on the old Cape road, was granted to Paulus Heyns in 1707. It was just over 60 morgen in extent. The homestead is one of the finest in the district, though it did not escape the fate that affected most others: the replacement of the thatch by corrugated iron and, worse, the clipping of all gables, It is basically TT-shaped (the front rectangle being the oldest part), but the wide space between the 2 back wings was turned into a spacious living room. To cover it the two back rooms were made to meet in the middle (which, as a result, leakage where they meet: in the middle of the new room!). The kitchen was originally at the end of the right-hand back wing, but was later shifted to a flat-roofed addition on the left, itself of late-19thc- date. The facade, despite the clipping of the gable and raising of the walls, is still very fine. On the remainders of the gable the initials HDT as well as the date 1838 are still visible; this clearly represents a refashioning of the

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 52 house, for the structure and a good deal of the internal woodwork are much older, possibly 18th-century. The façade woodwork, including french windows at either end, dates from the 1838 conversion. The windows are transitional; the front door is modern. The front still has its painted, fielded dado up to sill level - an attractive feature now lost in most houses- and painted quoining, also below the sides of the gable.But the most interesting feature of the house are the 8 wall paintings, including 'sopra portas' (above the doors) in the voorhuis. They represent animals and fantastic landscapes in a romantic style, and are done in oils, apparently by an Italian decorator and possibly at the time of the 1838 alterations. Some distance away from the house, on its right, stands a row of modernized outbuildings, one the stables, also with a clipped centre gable, as well as a 1903 dwelling with two stoepkamers.”

DOORNKLOOF (Fransen p324) “A thatched, T-shaped homestead with half-hipped ends. Its age is difficult to ascertain; most of its windows are new and its beams are late- 19th-century except for some enormous bluegum poles. Closer to the road there is also a thatched outbuilding with half-hipped ends. The thatch and roof construction have revcently been removed, leaving the homestead with little authenticity.”

WARD 12:

ONGEGUND (Fransen p 324) “This farm, despite its name ('not granted', though it could also mean 'begrudged'), was granted in quitrent to Michiel Nicolaas Smuts Michiel/sn, in 1818. This man, baptised 1788, was a great-grandson of Hermanus Smuts (see 14 Keerom St and 185 Long St, Cape Town). In 1812 he married Maria Magdalena van der Bijl. It seems likely that he built the house. It is H-shaped and has been much altered; it nevertheless retains one of the few typical and unmodified pilaster gables in the Malmesbury district. It has a segmental pediment flanked by balls and rather over-sized winged volutes, its pilasters fielded, a garlanded pineapple above the gable-window, and probably dates from c 1820. The back gable is identical with the front-gable, but is probably a later copy. The end-gables (low-pitched like the iron roof; and windows are new but the front door and fanlight now off-centre are c1860. There is an extensive complex of scattered auxiliary buildinqs. One of these, nearest the house, has a flush board-and-batten door in its end, as well as a casement frame with hinge pintles, and might well be an earlier dwelling. Other outbuildings are situated opposite the homestead.”

CLOVENBURG also Kloovenburg. (Fransen p 324) “The Kasteelberg, despite its comparatively low height, rises from the rolling plains of the Swartland like a true castle. It was first visited a party led by Pieter Cruythof as early as 1661.It soon saw the establishment of a VOC outpost to guard the Company cattle there, and the first loan- farms soon followed. Impressively situated overlooking the kloof to which its name refers and with a long werf wall in front, this H-shaped homestead standing by the Riebeek turn off from the Malmesbury-Hermon road serves as a gateway to the two Riebeek villages. Clovenburg is a farm given out as a loan-place to Jan Bothma in 1704, and by the 1750s was already a flourishing wine farm. It was extensively altered in the

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1860s: door, windows, pilasters and end-gables, but it retains much older and very fine woodwork inside. To judge by the style of a wall- cupboard, with its gabled cornice, star-inlays and raised glazing-bar bosses, the house must be pre-1800 in date. In line with the homestead, on its left, stands an outbuilding, half of it, with its characteristic arched openings, a cellar, the rest now a dwelling.”

GOEDGEDACHT, Riebeeksrivier (Fransen p 325) “As early as 1704 Stellenbosch heemraad Pieter Robbertsz was given grazing rights along the Riebeeks River on the west side of the Kasteelberg. In 1824 a quitrent grant to Pieter Loedolff along both sides of the river included the old Robbertsz grant; Loedolff had almost certainly been living there for some time. There is an H-shaped homestead there, with an entrance passage, now with an iron roof hipped at all four ends, loft- windows, plain bull-nosed verandas front and back and various later additions (including one enclosing a bakoond), its side-courts partly built in. The date 1825on its clipped gable (since remodelled into a holbol without edge-mouldings) is not original though it may well reflect the actual age of the house or its refashioning (perhaps financed from a government loan to repair flood damage). The outer woodwork is turn-of-:the- century but most original ceilings survive. It is thought that the house rwas altered c1920 by a builder from Riebeek West, presumably one of those responsible for persuading many farmers in the area to 'modernise' their opstalle. There is a 30-m-long cellar retaining early casement frames, since restored and serving as an agricultural resource centre, as well as a later barn. At the top of the large werf stands a Victorian dwelling. The complex is nestled against the western foothills of the Kasteelberg and has aravishing view. [P Riley 1993.]”

BRAKFONTEIN (Fransen p 327) “A nicely situated late house, with a triangular gable dated 1865. It has the rectangular, two-rooms-deep plan that was customary at that date, half-hipped ends and modern windows. There is a veranda in front”

KOORNLANDSDRIFT (Fransen p 327) “A charming, though altered, opstal, close to the meandering row of trees which indicate the course of the Berg River. The house is T.-shaped and has a thatch roof with half-hipped ends and a narrow gable dated 1841, which consists of a triangle resting on a rectangle. The kitchen is not situated at the end of the back wing, as is usual, but at the end of the left front wing, which makes it clear that the earlier form of the house was a simple row of rooms. Some of the rooms have reed ceilings on round beams. The windows are modern. There are several thatched outbuildings, also with half-hipped ends. The homestead, which has been standing uninhabited for years, now seems beyond repair.”

ZONQUASDEURDRIFT also Sonquasdrift (Fransen p 327) “This farm (the name of which is a picturesque reminder of the Khoisan Sonqua who raided the first settlers) was granted in 1718 to Dirk Coetzee, and was nearly 60 morgen in size. The very next year he transferred it to Jan Botma. After several fairly short periods of ownership the farm was acquired in 1763 by Pieter Wiese, who held it until 1788, in which year it was transferred to Petrus Johannes Louw. Louw went bankrupt five years later; an event that often means that the owner had built a house the cost of which had exceeded his means. Whether Louw did so is not known. The house that is still standing has a gable with a pediment, which probably dates from soon after 1800; but the gable may of course

SWARTLAND RURAL HERITAGE SURVEY: WARDS 1,3,4,5,6, 7 &12: COMPANION VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 54 have been added to an older house. In 1793 Christoffel Lombard acquired the farm, and in l798 Daniel Stephanus Lombard. In1801 the farm was transferred to Jacob Redelinghuys, and here we may have the builder of the house as it appears today; for he kept it until 1847, and the gable cannot be dated to before 1800. It is of the type usually associated with end-gables, with curved outlines and a small pediment, and without pilasters. The house is extremely interesting; thanks perhaps to its isolated position on the banks of the Berg River it had long been left so untouched that until recently it was one of the best-preserved homesteads in the Cape, and especially so in these parts. It is H-shaped, but the front portion has half-hipped ends, while those at the back are late-straight. Probably the original plan was T-shaped, and the back wings were added a little later, c1830 by Redelinghuys. The side-courts have been left open. The windows in front, two half-width and three full (the fourth one has been replaced with a Victorian door), at first sight look like casements; but they are in fact sash-windows without upper lights, and slide upward behind a thin wall. The door has a square fanlight, as if to line up with sash-windows. It has an (incomplete) entablature with fluted pilasters. During a recent restoration this was given a timber head, which is now flanked by full (new) sashes, thus sacrificing a most unique feature. Voor- en agterkamer and the flanking bedrooms have their original yellowood ceilings; the kitchen has a reed ceiling while the other rooms in the back wings have modern board ceilings (originally they were reed), another indication of the slightly later date of the back wings. There is a panelled screen that has unfortunately partly been removed. Nearby stands an unusual little thatched building said formerly to have served as a school. It is rectangular (though with a flat-roofed kitchen tail), with the low-pitched roof and end-gables and the pointed, triangular front-gable belonging to the period after 1840. Its doors and windows are also mid-19th –century; the two windows besides the door are narrow ones: unusual for a single row of rooms. The fanlight of the door, and of that of an end room, are identical with that of the end room of the homestead. There are several other outbuildings, some with half-hipped thatch roofs.”

DE HOOP (Fransen p 326) “ The 2-kmJong Main St, which runs at right angles to the main through-road, runs into a farm werf of which the cl1890 homestead has two flanking fretwork bargeboard gables,unusually not over stoepkamers. However, there are bay-windows there as well as one in the centre. Set under plaster-framed loft-windows is a good bull-nosed veranda that continues round the left side.

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ANNEXURE 3: GRADING MAPS

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