Machinery's Shop Receipts and Formulas; 412 Shop Receipts And

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MACHINERY'S SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

412 Shop Receipts and Formulas Selected from MACHINERY

Classified and Revised

CONTENTS

Blue-Printing and Drafting-Room Formulas - - - 3 Cements for Metals, Emery, Leather, Glass, Marble, etc. - 7 Etching Fluids ------17 Hardening and Tempering, Case-Hardening, etc. - - 18 Polishing Brass, Nickel and Steel - - - - - 25 Producing Colors and Coatings on Metals - - - 26 Rust Removers and Preventatives - - - - - 36 Solders and Soldering Acids ------37 Lubricants for Bearings, Cutting Tools, etc. - - - 41 Varnishes, Paints and Whitewashes - - - - 47 Eye Washes, Salves, Cleaning Compounds, etc. - - - 50 ^liscellaneous Useful Receipts ----- 52 Index ------___ ^g

©CLA259999 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

BLUE-PRINT W'RITING FLUIDS

Markiugf Fluid for Blue-prints Bed Writing" Fluid for Blue-prints The following receipt for marking fluid For red writing on blue-prints, I take for blue-prints lias given me satisfaction. a piece of common washing soda the size of The fluid is composed of potassium ox- an ordinary bean and dissolve it In four tablespoonfuls ordinary red writing ink alate, 1 ounce ; gum arable, 1 dram (60 of fluid. I grains) ; water, 6 ounces ; cobalt-blue to to make a red The only way know color. William H. David. of to keep it from spreading too much is to Staten Island, N. Y. use a fine pen to apply it with, and write fast so as not to allow to much of the fluid to get on the paper, for it will continue eating until it is dry. H. E. W. White Writing' Fluid for Blue-prints

A fluid which I find is as good as any I have ever used for writing white on blue- prints is made of equal parts of sal-soda Colored Inks for Blue-prints and water. Another fluid, not as good, is In order to make red and white solutions made by mixing equal parts of borax and for writing on blue-prints, dissolve a crystal water. Both these fluids must be used of oxalate of potash about the size of a pea

with a fine-pointed pen ; a pen with a blunt in an ink bottle full of water. This will point will not work well. give white lines on blue-prints ; other potash Allegheny, Pa, C. W. Morrison. solutions are yellowish. If this shows a tendency to run, owing to too great strength, add more water and thicken slightly with mucilage. Mix this with red Solutions Writing* White and Bed for on or any other colored ink about half and Blue-prints half and writing may be done on the blue- I find the following means convenient for prints in colors corresponding to the inks making a solution for marking white lines used. W. H. Sargent. on blue-prints. I add to a small bottle St. Johnsbury, Vt. of water enough washing soda to make a clear white line, then I add enough gum arabic to it to prevent spreading and making ragged lines. To make red lines I dip To Make Chang'es and Corrections on the pen in red ink and then add a little of Blue-prints the solution by means of the quill. Sometimes I find it necessary to make Cleveland, O. Ed. H. Remde. changes and corrections on blue-prints ; to do this I use a solution of sodium carbonate and water, with a little red ink mixed in. This gives a very pleasing pink color to Solution for Writing on Blue-prints the changes which at the same time is very A solution for marking on blue-prints, noticeable. The amount of sodium carbon- which I have tried with comparatively ate used depends upon the surface of the good success, is a very thick lime water. blue-print paper as some coarse-grained pa- Have a good deal more lime than will dis- pers will look better if less soda is used and solve, and shake up the bottle just before vice versa. However, the amount of pow- using, and it will not spread. Possibly dered soda held on a five-cent piece dis- this solution could be colored wjth red solved in a bottle of water (Higgins ink ink, but as I prefer the white I have never bottle) gives very good results. tried it. G. V. Sharon, Pa. R. F. Kiefee. ;

SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Retouchingf Blue-prints some kind cf a gum preparation. It can be applied with a pen, as ordinary ink. An excellent solution for retouching or blue is removed very rap- marking in details on blue-prints can be The background idly solution, but it is important prepared according to the following re- by the that the print be immediately washed, as ceipt. The solution consists of 75 grains of potassium oxalate dissolved in 1 ounce the solution has a tendency to soak into the pores of the paper blur the lines. of water. If the solution is too thin and and watery, it may be thickened by adding Olney, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.

SOLUTIONS FOR PREPARING BLUE-PRINTING PAPER

Blue-printing Formula Practical Pormula for Sensitizing" Blue- print Paper I have used the following receipt for blue- prints with much satisfaction. The same To prepare the blue-print solutions, dissolve formula may be applied for postal cards on 3% ounces of ammonia citrate of iron, in 18 ounces of water, and put in which it is desired to print landscapes or a bottle. Then dissolve 2% ounces of red similar views. Make a solution as follows : prussiate of potash in 18 ounces of water, Water, 8 ounces ; ammonia citrate of iron, and put in another bottle. When ready 300 grains ; oxalate of potash, 75 grains. to prepare the paper, have the sheets piled Dry in the dark, print and then develop in one on top of the other, coating but one at the following : Water, 3 ounces ; nitrate of a time. Darken the room, and light a ruby silver, 15 grains ; citrate of soda, 150 lamp. Now, mix thoroughly equal parts grains. Add ammonia to dissolve the pre- of both solutions and apply the mixture cipitate, and acetic acid until slightly acid. with a sponge In long parallel sweeps, keep- Wash slightly and dry. I have found this ing the application as even as possible. to make a better blue-print in every detail Hang the paper in the dark room to dry than any other of the various known re- and keep it dark until used. Any of the ceipts. Robert B. Otis. mixture left, from sensitizing the paper, Orange, Conn. should be thrown away, as it deteriorates rapidly. Often, in making blue-prints by sunlight. Chemicals for Blue-prints the exposure is too long, and when the To make blue-print paper use citrate of frame is opened the white lines of the iron and ammonia, 1% ounce dissolved in print are faint or obscure. Usually these 8 ounces of water, and red prussiate of prints are relegated to the waste basket potash, 1% otmce, dissolved also in 8 but if, after being washed as usual, they ounces of water. Keep in separate bottles are sponged with a weak solution of chlo- until wanted for use. When wanted for ride of iron, their reclamation is almost cer- use, measure equal quantities from each of tain. When the lines reappear the print the above bottles. Shake so as to mix it should be thoroughly rinsed in clear water. well. It is then ready for putting on the Often a drawing, from :which prints paper. When the two are poured together, have already been made, requires changing. tfce mixture must be kept away from white The blue-prints then on hand are worthless, light and should be applied in a room il- requiring more time to correct than ir luminated with a ruby light only. The would take to make a new print. An eco- paper must be dried in this room and kept nomical way of using the worthless prints in the dark until used. One ounce of is to cancel the drawing already thereon, mixed chemical will cover about 4 square sensitize the reverse side, and use the paper feet of paper. David Melville. again. Julian Day Page. Detroit, Mich. Youngstown, Ohio.

METHODS OP TREATING BLUE- AND BROA?7N-PRINTS

To Make Vandyke Prints more over the print with a soft brush, wipe dry Transparent wich a piece of white cotton rag and print in the usual manner. Vandyke prints To a pint of best grade gasoline, add as treated in this way will require only about much parafine as the gasoline will readily two-thirds the usual time to print. dissolve and spread this solution evenly Meadville, Pa. E. W. Bowen. BLUE-PRINTING

Mixture for Clearlngr Blue-prints Spots on Blue-prints It very often occurs, when making blue- We were bothered for some time with prints, that a print becomes burned by peculiar blue spots on our tracings, which over-exposure and the lines do not show up were next to impossible to remove, and well. These may be brought out more which caused spotted blue-prints. The clearly by pouring bi-chromate of potash, office receiving these prints finally requested dissolved in water, over the print while it us to remove the ink blots from our trac- is in the sink. The print must be washed ings. The trouble was finally located, in again with water before it is hung up to connection with the blue-printing. The one dry. HePvBert C. Sxow. doing this work had a habit of making one Cleveland, O. print, washing it at once to prove the color, and then printing the entire lot. Now after washing the first print, he did Waterproofiiig' Blue-prints not thoroughly dry his hands, and on placing the next print, the paper was moist- To prevent the annoyance occasioned by ened and the exposure "fixed" some of the having blue-prints discolored by rain, drip- blue clear through the tracing cloth. pings of mines or other similar exposures, Howard D. Yoder. a very simple method of waterproofing them may be effected as follows. The Solution for Cleaningf Blue-prints waterproofing medium is refined paraffine. To apply, immerse in the melted paraffine, Dissolve enough bichromate of potash in until saturated, a number of pieces of an water to color the water a deep orange—or absorbent cloth at least a foot square. about one tablespoonful to eight gallons of When withdrawn and allowed to drain for water. Wash the blue-prints in clear water a few moments they are ready for use. before and after using the solution. Lay one of the saturated sheets on a Chambersburg, Pa. E. Ray Croft. smooth surface, place the dry print on top to Save Under-printed or Over- of it, and then lay a second sheet of the How printed Contact Copies saturated cloth over it. Iron the top cloth with a moderately hot flat-iron. The paper Blue-prints are never so over-printed that immediately absorbs the paraffine until they cannot be reduced to a suitable tone by saturated, becomes translucent and highly a slightly alkaline bath of borax, bicarbon- waterproofed, owing to the smooth glossy ate of soda, washing soda, or ammonia. surface, which is the result of the ironing. Blackline, or "ink" process paper, is usually

The lines of the print will be intensified, lost if slightly over-printed ; if under-print- and the paper left perfectly smooth and ed it develops too gray all over its surface easy to handle. T. E. O'Donnell. to be of use for tracing or for reproduction photographically. In the winter-time, when prints from thick paper drawings are apt To Tone Blue-prints to be under-exposed, I treated a number of with lo- After washing the blue-print in the usual such apparently useless prints a tion for the first "tonic" manner, immerse it for half a minute or throat troubles— less in a solution made by dissolving a available—with excellent results, the invisi- teaspoonful of potassium bromide crystals ble lines developing out a strong black on in one-half gallon clear water. Then rinse a gray ground. The mixture was tannin- the print in clear water and hang it up to and-glycerine solution to about 20 parts of dry. A galvanized iron or japanned tray water. When using this solution it is safer may be used for the solution. Prints may to under-print rather than to over-print, be much overprinted and yet give beautiful with the resulting weak or broken lines. clear whites and extremely deep blues, Sepia prints, when much over-printed, easily seen by the workman and a delight can be saved by washing In a very weak to the directors, the latter especially be- solution of hyposulphite of soda which cause the solution is quite inexpensive, and bleaches away the image before it can be- can be used over and over again until an come fixed by the usual preliminary wash objectionable precipitate forms. I have in plain water. The hyposulphite solution used this toning with KeufiEel & Esser's is so energetic that it wall bleach down the paper and also with a number of local darkest of sepia prints if not previously brands of blue-printing paper, all of which put in water. Purple tones are obtained, gave such fine results that we specify "all after washing, by treating with any gold- blue-prints must be toned." toning bath. Charles R. King. Denver, Col. F. J. Schaufelberger. Staple Hill Park, Bristol. England. 6 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

To Bleach Blue prints When cool, add sulphuric acid in small quantities until blue litmus paper turns It is occasionally necessary to bleach slightly red, then of blue-prints when It is desired to make add a few drops am- drawings for photographic reproduction. monia until the alkaline reaction appears, red litmus blue. Blue-prints are sometimes so faded that it and paper turns Then is impossible to trace them, in which case add to the solution 154 grains of red crude I ink the lines of the blue-print and then gum catechu. Allow this to dissolve, with bleach out the blue, leaving the black lines occasional stirring. The solution will keep on the white ground. The process of indefinitely. After the print has been bleaching is extremely simple and is one washed in the usual way, immerse it in that I developed about eight years ago. I the above bath for a period of a minute had found it impossible to make tracings or so longer than necessary to obtain the from blue-prints which were very much desired tone. An olive brown or a dark faded, or which had been over- or under- brown is the result. John B. Sperry. printed. After experimenting for a month Aurora, 111. or so, trying different preparations, I final- To Save Burned or Over-ezposed Blue- ly hit on the following combination : prints 1 gallon lukewarm water and % pound bicarbonate of soda. Of course this pro- Blue-prints that have become burned or portion is not exact, and has to be used over-exposed, may be saved by the use of

with caution ; when in doubt prepare a the following formula : Make a saturated little solution and make a test of a small solution of bichromate of potash, and keep piece before hand as it will be found that a supply on hand in the blue-print room. some prints will not bleach as others do. If a print becomes over-exposed, wash it in Do not allow the inked-in prints to re- the usual manner in a tank or tray of main in the solution any longer than is water, after which place it in another tray absolutely necessary, for no matter how which should contain a mixture of two waterproof the ink may be it is impossible parts water to one part of the saturated to keep it from running a little. Freshly solution of bichromate of potash. Allow made blue-prints, that is, those not more the print to remain in the tray containing than a few months old, work best. As the solution until it shows a deep blue color soon as the print is bleached take it out and the white lines are clearly defined of the solution by the corners, being care- (which requires but a few seconds), after ful not to touch the ink work. Too much which the print should be thoroughly soda is harmful as it deposits white dust washed and rinsed in clear water. The pro- on the lines. This, however, can J)e re- portion of the bichromate of potash may moved by re-immersion in clean water. be increased or diminished as the occa- New York. Fred Dibblius. sion requires. This solution also acts equally as well when applied to white- Brown-prints prints made from vandyke negatives. Prints, The following solution will change the as well as expense and time, may be saved color of blue-print paper to a dark brown : by the use of the above solution. Borax, 2^^ ounces; hot water, .38 ounces. Meadville, Pa. J. C. Hassett.

MISCELLANEOUS DRAFTING-ROOM RECEIPTS

To Preserve Reference Tables easily cleaned by thoroughly sponging the Reference tables are very convenient to cloth with benzine or gasoline. Kerosene use but soon get dirty and torn. To pre- will serve the purpose, but it is not so vent this pour some lacquer in a shallow good. It does not injure the cloth in the tray and dip the paper into it and hang least, but on the other hand has the effect it up to drain and dry. This not only of re-establishing the color of a much used makes the paper dirt-proof but toughens it tracing, and will remove pencil marks peras well. Milton Burgess. fectly. When some compound has been Cleveland, O. used on the tracing to remove the ink lines, leaving a sticky and gummy surface, benzine will quickly clean and dry the affected To Clean Tracing's portion, so that it can be worked over Tracings that have become badly soiled again. T. E. O'Donnell. from handling or other causes, may be Olney, 111. ;

CEMENTS FOR METALS

Chalk Preparation for Tracing's cloth and rub it over the surface with a cloth. This helps somewhat, but Mix thoroughly one pound of pulverized piece of be perfectly satisfactory. chalk with one-quarter pound of borax. not enough to After trying various methods, I have found Rub some of this mixture into a chamois a way which gives excellent results, and skin, and rub the tracing carefully with that is, to sprinkle the powdered soapstone this. This preparation is superior to pure on the cloth as usual, but rub it in with a chalk. Rex McKee. blotter instead of a piece of cloth, using a Joliet, 111. circular motion and considerable pressure course it is necessary to brush away the To Write with Color on a Drawing^ that of superfluous powder. The use of a blotter has is to be Varnished an abraiding effect and it is just harsh it is required When to color or to write enough to give the cloth a surface which will with color on or blue-print which a drawing take the ink readily and still leave the pens has to be varnished later, little mix a unharmed. I find it to be an advantage to isinglass with the color ; this will prevent repeat this process each morning in case the color running when the size is applied. the tracing is not finished -the day it is Manchester, Eng. H. T. Millar. started ; the rubbing of the blotter over the lines already inked in does absolutely no To Remove G-rease Stains from Papers, harm and if anything makes the lines more Drawings, etc. dense. A trial of this method will convince the draftsman that the cloth will take the Place sheets of blotting paper over and ink better than by any other method. under the stained page, to protect the oth- Chicago, 111. Robert A. Lachmann. ers. Lay powdered magnesia on the stain

and under it ; then press over the blotting To Prevent Drawing Titles from Smear- paper with a hot iron. When the powder ing or Buhhing Off is shaken off, the stain is gone. A great many of our railroads and large New Britain, Conn. F. L. Engel. manufacturing concerns throughout the country are using small printing presses, To Write on Celluloid for the purpose of putting titles on their drawings. It is titles put on in this man- To write on triangles or other instru- ner with tracing cloth printing ink to ments made of celluloid use anhydrous which I refer. After the title has been acetic acid. The writing will appear dull printed on the drawing, lacquer it over on the glossy surface. If colored writing with a very thin coat of French varnish is desired, add some coloring matter to the (such as is used by artists). This can be acid. J. M. Menegds. best applied with a chisel-shaped camel's Los Angeles, Cal. hair brush, equal in width to the height of the letters in the title. A good substitute Ideal of Preparing* Tracing Method where French varnish cannot be obtained Cloth is made by cutting % ounce of the best It is a well-known fact that neither the grade of white shellac in % pint of alco- glossy nor the dull side of tracing cloth hol. As both of these varnishes dry very takes ink readily without being prepared in quickly, the tracings may be used soon after some manner. The usual way is to sprinkle the titles are put on. E. W. Bowen. powdered soapstone or chalk on the tracing Meadville, Pa.

CEMENTS FOR METALS . To Join Together Two Pieces of Iron Cement for Metals that cannot he Heated A very good cement that I have used for I have used a compound consisting of cementing metal parts consists of the following ingredients: parts zinc oxide; 1 sulphur, 6 parts ; white lead, 6 parts ; and 2% borax, 1 part. These substances are dis- part zinc chloride ; 5 parts pulverized lime- solved in concentrated sulphuric acid, and stone, slag, etc. Mix to a thick paste, using water. If the cement is to set the surfaces to be united covered with the wanted slowly, add 1 part of zinc sulphate instead mastic, and pressed very hard together. In of 1 part of zinc chloride. The adhesive about six days the two pieces are so well power of this cement can be increased by joined that even hammering will not part adding 2 per cent of ferrous sulphate to them. J. M. Menegds. the whole. Herbert S. Gladfeltee. Los Angeles, Cal. Desloge, Mo. ;

SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Bust Joint ough, and a partial oxidation takes place, and it is accompanied by the production of Mix 10 parts of iron filings, 3 parts carbonic-dioxid. With wood oil, the hard- chloride of lime with enough water to make ening is entire and rapid, and a rearrange- a paste. Apply this mixture to the joint, ment of molecules takes place without any bolt firmly together and in twelve hours It

chemical change ; the physical constitution will be set so that the iron will break sooner than the cement. David Melville. alone appears to be modified. The harden- Detroit, Mich. ing of zinc dust cement is quite different from that prepared with white or red lead, as the action of oxygen is not required. Cement to Resist White Heat Heating to 150 degrees centigrade is suffi- A cement that will resist white heat may cient to complete the action, and at 110 be made of pulverized fire clay, 4 parts degrees it is completed in six hours. This plumbago, 1 part ; iron filings or borings cement will keep for an indefinite period man- free from oxide, 2 parts ; peroxide of after hardening. l^ Alfred Lang. ganese, 1 part ; borax, part, and sea Pittsburg, Pa. salt, % part. Mix these to ,a thick paste and use immediately. Heat up gradually when first using. W. R. Bowers. To Unite Metals of any Kind Birmingham, Eng. The following mastic may be used to unite metals of any kind. It becomes very Iron Cement hard. First, mix together well 4 parts of iron filings with 4 parts of chloride of am- The following iron cement, if properly prepared and applied, will unite broken iron monia. Then dissolve 100 parts of arabic parts very strongly, and may be found use- gum and 20 parts of sugar in 100 parts of ful oftentimes for repairing broken machine water, and add 1% part of nitric acid. parts of comparative unimportance. Mix Boil this, and put the first mixture into it. equal parts of sulphur and white lead with When the mastic has to be used, mix one about one-sixth part of borax and incor- part of it with ten parts of new iron filings porate the three together thoroughly. When and some water, and heat it until a paste ready to use the mixture wet it with is formed, which is applied well heated to strong sulphuric acid and spread a thin the pieces to be united. layer of the cement on the joint to be Los Angeles, Cal. J. M. Menegds. united. Clamp together for five days when the joint should be dry and soimd. Cement for Ziocomotive Front-ends St. Joseph, Mich. J. W. Wilford. A cement that was commonly used on the Pallbrook R. R. locomotive front-ends Zinc Dust Cement some years ago to stop all cracks and leaks, was composed of litharge mixed with A putty prepared with zinc dust does not sufficient boiled linseed oil to make a stiff have the drawbacks of those prepared with paste. Into this paste was thoroughly white lead or lead. oil is red The used mixed about one-third bulk of old rope cut that known as oil ; this oil is ex- wood into short lengths—about one inch—and tracted from a tree in which grows China separated into its constituent fibers. This and Cochin-China, known as the oil tree or cement hardens like iron and the rope Eloecocca Vernica. This putty possesses fibers hold it together while drying and the peculiar property of hardening under also prevent squeezing out when the front- the action of a very moderate heat, such end casting is bolted to the smokebox. This as that which exists in steam boilers. With cement will be found useful in many other linseed oil, the hardening takes place at a places where it will be subjected to heat. higher temperature, but it is not as thor- M. E. Caxek.

CEMENTS AND PILLING FOR CAST IRON Filling* for Cast Iron Iron Cement One-quarter tumbler full of japan dryer, For plugging holes in castings a good ce- 1% ounce finely ground dry white lead. ment is made from 80 parts of sifted cast- Mix and add 1 quart of finishing japan. iron turnings, 2 parts of powdered sal- Stir in dry rotten stone until mixture is a ammoniac, and 1 part sulphur, made into thick paste. B. H. McClintock. thick paste with water fresh for use. West Somerville, Mass. Detroit, Mich. David Melville. ;

CEMENTS FOR CAST IRON 9

Fillingr for Blowholes in Cast Iron Cement for Cast Iron One part red lead, and ll^y pai't litharge. To make a cement for cast iron take 16

Mix with glycerine to consistency de- ounces cast-iron borings ; 2 ounces, sal-am- sired. E. H. McClixtock. moniac ; and 1 ounce, sulphur. Mix well West Somerville, Mass. and keep dry. When ready to use take one part of this powder to 20 parts of cast-iron borings and mix thoroughly into a stiff Cement for Iron paste, adding a little water. A. A. Six parts of white lead, 6 of sulphur and 1 of borax, thoroughly mixed and wetted with strong sulphuric acid makes a very Cement for Holes and Cracks in strong cement. David Melville. Casting's Detroit, Mich. A cement for holes and cracks in castings is made of 6 parts red lead, ground in oil

8 parts white lead, ground in oil : 2 parts Cement for Cast Iron black oxide of manganese ; 1 part silicate Mix 1 pound cast-iron filings, 1 ounce part litharge. Mix and use as of soda ; % sulphur, and 2 ounces sal-ammoniac. Mix a putty. To preserve from hardening, put thoroughly and keep dry. When using, mix in a vessel and cover with water. one part of this composition with twenty Syracuse, N. Y. C. E. MixK. parts clear filings and some very fine sand. Make into a stiff paste with water. E. H. McClixtock. Water and Oilproof Cement West Somerville, Mass. Some time ago I built a gasoline engine and boat, but when I put the rig on the river I found the engine would run for a Mixture for Making- a Porous Casting" short while and then stop. I found that Air- and Water-tig-lit the cause was some sand holes in the cylin- To make a porous casting air- and der which admitted water into the bore water-tight prepare a saturated solution of of the cylinder. To stop the holes I used copper sulphate, mix with it an equal quan- litharge and glycerine mixed into a stiff tity of commercial nitric acid. Dip the paste. The cement soon got as hard as casting into the solution, or pour it over iron and I had no further trouble from the casting on all sides and let stand for Ir^akage. I have found that this cement is a few hours. L, S. Burbaxk better than anything else I have ever tried. Worcester. Mass. Davton. Kv. Albert Elmiger.

Alloy for Pilling" Holes in Cast Iron Amalgam for Stopping' Iieaks, Blowholes, etc. Melt together 9 parts of lead, 2 parts of antimony, and 1 part of bismuth, and pour A small hole or crack that is diflScult to this mixture into the hole, first somewhat get at or that cannot well be soldered may warming the hole. This alloy possesses the be closed with an amalgam composed of quality of expanding when cooling, hence zinc, 66 parts : tin. 44 parts ; and suf- becomes solid in the holes when cold. ficient mercury to make a stiff dough. The Dubuque, Iowa. E. J. Buchet. zinc and tin are to be melted together and afterwards granulated. The latter may be done by slowly pouring the melted mixture To Close Cracks in Casting's through a strong stream of water from

The following mixture has been success- a hose nozzle ; or the filings may be used. fully used in filling cracks in gas engine The filings or granules are kneaded until water jackets, and is similar in nature to an amalgam of the consistency of stiff the ordinary rust joint mixtures. Prepare dough is formed with the mercury. Excess a dry mixture of 17 parts of cast-iron of mercury should be squeezed out. The filings, 2 parts of sal-ammoniac, and 1 part plastic mass is then forced into the open- of flour of sulphur ; add twenty times the ing and allowed to harden for an hour or weight of new iron filings, put in a mortar two. It can then be filed and scraped like and add water so as to obtain a paste. the metal itself. Only as much amalgam This paste is applied to the crack, and in should be mixed as is required for imme- a short time becomes as hard as the metal diate use. O. M. Becker. Itself. M. E. Caxek. Chicago. 111. 10 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Mixture for Plugg-ing Holes in Cast Iron have been using this receipt for years and A good mixture for plugging blowholes it is the result of many experiments: 1% In cast iron is made of sulphur, cast-iron part litharge; 2% parts dextrine; 4 parts borings sifted very fine, and graphite. iron borings or turnings carefully sifted. Melt the sulphur in an iron ladle and stir Mix the parts well, add water until the in as much of the sifted borings as the mass is of about the consistency of mortar. sulphur will allow, not malting it too thick With a putty knife or other instrument to pour readily. Add a small quantity of fill the defective parts and press into every the graphite, say a tablespoonful to a crevice. Let it "set" for 48 hours, when quart of the mixture. Pour into the holes it can be chipped, planed, bored or turned itself. while hot, and after it is cool smooth off like the casting Color with' lampblack suit the with a file. When holes are filled with to shade of casting. this mixture on surfaces to be machined a To facilitate the measuring of parts, use finishing cut can be tal^en over it which a box of three divisions, made to the fol- will obliterate the holes. R. B. Casey. lowing dimensions : The divisions for bor- Schenectady, N. Y. ings should be 4 inches long, 2 inches wide,

1 inch deep ; for dextrine, 4 inches long, Filler for Defective Casting^s 11/4 inch wide, 1 inch deep; for litharge, I recommend the following formula for 4 inches long, % inch wide, 1 inch deep. filling defects and blowholes in castings. I York, Pa. W. W. Bihnstock.

CEMENTS FOR PIPE JOINTS

steam Pipe Cement powdered graphite, 6 parts ; slaked lime,

; sulphur, 8 parts, and boiled oil, Mix equal parts, by weight, of oxide of 3 parts thoroughly manganese, pipe clay and white lead, 7 parts. The mixture must be incorporated by protracted kneading until ground with linseed oil varnish. free from lumps. E. H. McClintock. it is perfectly smooth and Ohio. O. E. Voris. West Somerville, Mass. Dayton, To Malse a Water-tight Joint Substitute for Bed Iiead Applied to Take ordinary white lead, and mix Joints enough powdered red lead with it to make a paste the consistency of putty. Spread As a substitute for, or in the absence of this mixture on the joint, and when it red lead, use varnish on air or steam pipe hardens, the joint will be perfectly water- joints. It will dry very hard and last for tight. We used this mixture on flanges on a long time. Donald A. Hampson. a standpipe, after we had tried all kinds Middletown, N. Y. of rubber gaskets without success. The mixture hardened and made a tight joint, Cement for Steam Pipe Joint never leaking afterward. J. D. Page. Youngstown, Ohio. A good cement for use in making steam pipe joints is made in the following manner. Grind and wash in clean cold water Steam-tight Joints 15 parts of chalk and 50 parts of graphite. Take white lead ground in oil, add to it Mix the two together thoroughly and allow as much black oxide of manganese as pos- to dry. When dry regrind to a fine pow- sible and a small portion of litharge. der, to which add 20 parts of ground Knead with the hand, dusting the board litharge and mix to a stifE paste with 15 with red lead. The mass is made into a parts of boiled linseed oil. The prepara- small roll and screwed or pressed into tion may be set aside for future use, as it position, the joint being first slightly oiled will remain plastic for a long time if placed with Imseed oil. R. E. Verse. in a cool place. It is applied to the joint packing as any ordinary cement and will Cement for Steam and Water Pipes be found to last a very long time. A good cement for joints on steam or Olney, 111. T. E. O'Donnell. water pipes is made as follows : 10 povmds

fine yellow ochre ; 4 pounds ground lith-

arge ; 4 pounds paris white (whiting), and Impermeable Cement for Pipes % pound of hemp cut up fine. Mix to- To make an impermeable cement for gether thoroughly with linseed oil, to about steam, air and gas pipes mix thoroughly the consistency of putty. R. M. :; :

CEMENTS FOR CLOTH, EMERY, ETC. 11

Permanent Iron Cement for Steam Pipes any other cement. It dries thoroughly In from 10 to 12 hours. T. E. O'Donnell To make a permanent cement used for Urbana, 111. stopping leaks in steam pipes where calk- ing or plugging is impossible, mix black oxide of manganese and raw linseed oil, Cements for Iron Joints using enough oil with the manganese to The following are cements used to make bring it to a thick paste ; apply to the the joints of machinery air and water pipe or joint at leak. It is best to re- tight move pressure from the pipe and keep it 1, Mix ground white lead with one- sufficiently warm to absorb the oil from fourth its weight of red lead. the manganese. In twenty-four hours the 2. Mix equal parts of red lead and white cement will be as hard as the iron pipe. lead, in powdered form, with enough boiled Oswego, N. Y. James H. Taylor. linseed oil to make the whole a soft, putty- like mass. o. To 50 pounds of borings, preferably cast iron, which have been pounded and sifted, one pound of sal-ammoniac. Cement for Higrh-pressnre Water Pipe add ready to use. Joints Mix with water when 4. Boiled linseed oil and red lead mixed A highly recommended packing and ce- to the consistency required. A small quan- ment, combined, for making tight joints in tity of litharge improves the cement for high pressure water pipes, is made as fol- many purposes. lows : Mix with boiled linseed oil, to the 5. Cast-iron borings 4 pounds, dried consistency of putty, these ingredients potter's clay 1 pound, powdered potsherds

ground litharge, 10 pounds ; plaster of (broken crockery) 1 potmd. Make into a paris, 4 yellow ochre, pounds ; % pound paste with salt and water. red lead, 2 pounds ; cut hemp fiber, % I have used all of these cements and find ounce. The hemp fiber should be cut in them satisfactory. No. 3 Is used largely lengths of about % inch, and thoroughly for filling cracks in boilers, etc., and No. 5 mixed into the putty material. Its oflSce is is excellent for outdoor iron work, water to give consistency to the cement. The tanks, etc. P. L. Engel. cement is applied to the joint similarly to New Britain, Conn.

CEMENTS FOR ATTACHING CLOTH, EMERY, ETC., TO IRON

To Pasten Paper Isabels to Iron or Steel Substitute for Cement or Grinder Disks Rub the surface over with an onion cut A good substitute In place of glue or vari- in half. Then apply the label with glue ous kinds of cement for fastening emery or paste. L. E. Muncy. cloth to the disk of grinders of the Gard- Syracuse, N. Y. ner type is to heat or warm the disk and

apply a thin coating of beeswax ; then put the emery cloth in place and allow to set Attaching* Clotli to Iron or cool under pressure. G. Huber. Heat the iron so it will be just too hot Kansas City, Mo. to touch with the bare hand, put on a coat

of red shellac ; have the cloth already cut, applying it quickly, and press firmly in place. James A. Peatt. Howard, R. I. To Cement Emery Clotli to Polishing: Disk Apply quickly to the disk with a broad Silicate of Soda Cement for Grinder flat brush a coat of moderately thick shel- Disks lac varnish. Lay on the emery cloth and We use silicate of soda (liquid glass) for place imder a press at once. The shellac fastening emery disks to a disk grinder, and varnish must be clean and without lumps think it is the best cement we ever tried. as these may not be pressed down to an It requires no haste in applying, and the even surface and so cause scratches In the hotter the disk gets, the tighter it sticks. work. Oscar E. Perrigo. Syracuse, N. Y. H. G. Herrick. Neponset, Mass. 12 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

To Glue Asbestos or Other Fabric to the mixture will become a perfectly liquid Iron transparent mass and is then ready for use. One of the most reliable cements or glues When applied to rubber the ammonia softens it, to use for attaching asbestos or any other but it quickly evaporates, leaving the rubber in the same condition as before. fabric to iron is silicate of soda. It is suc- The shellac clings the iron thus cessfully used for attaching emery paper to and forms a firm bond between the iron and the disks to disk grinders. It is particularly rubber. M. E. Caxek. useful for attaching asbestos to furnace Altay, N. Y. pipes, because it stands heat well, and for this reason silicate of soda is an all-around Cement for Sticking* Emery Paper on cement of much value. M. E. Caxek. Small Grinder Disks Melt together 5 parts paraflSne, 4 parts To Cover Iron Pulleys with Rubber beeswax and 1 part rosin. When cold, cut Thoroughly clean the surface of the pul- into blocks, and apply evenly on the revolving disk until it has a thin coat over ley ; if the pulley has just been turned in the latho, so much the better. Give it a its entire surface. The emery paper thorough wash in muriatic acid and let should then be pressed on the disk while it stand over night. In the morning give the is still revolving, thereby slightly heating iron and rubber a good coat of heavy yellow both the disk and the paper, and causing shellac vamish and apply the rubber and the cement to spread in a thin layer all around the disk. The belt should then be clamp. Let stand until thoroughly set. shifted onto the loose pulley, so that the Lakewood, Ohio. E. B. Gafkey. paper may be pressed closely to the disk. The corners may then be trimmed off with Cement for Attaching* Soft to Rubber an old file. It requires a little practice to Iron or Other Metals perform the job successfully, but the A cement which is effective for cement- method is much superior to removing the ing rubber to iron and which is specially disk and gluing the emery paper on in a valuable for fastening rubber bands to band- press. The worn-out paper can be more saw wheels is made as follows : Powdered easily removed, it being only necessary to shellac, 1 part ; strong water of ammonia, wait until the disk is cool, when, by taking 10 parts. Put the shellac in the ammonia hold of one portion of the paper, it may be water and set it away in a tightly closed ripped right off. H. J. Bachmann. jar for three or four weeks. In that time New York.

CEMENTS FOR LEATHER, AND LEATHER AND METALS A Belt Cement Cement for Iieather Belts To make a reliable belt cement use 1 pound To prepare a good cement for leather of Peter Cooper's white glue and 1 ounce belts, soften equal parts of good hide-glue of powdered white lead ; mix like ordinary and American isinglass, in warm water for glue (thick). When used it should be about 10 hours. Mix the two ingredients thinned to the required consistency with together thoroughly and then pour on a grain alcohol and applied hot. This ce- quantity of pure tannin and boil until the ment is particularly valuable where long, mass is sticky. Just enough tannin should hard usage is required, such as for dynamo be added so that the mass will have a good belts. J. H. V. consistency when boiling hot. To apply the cement, roughen the surfaces to be cemented Belt Cement and apply the cement while it is very hot. Put 15 pounds of best glue in a kettle Press the parts together firmly and hold and pour over it 5 gallons of cold water. in that position until dry. Let it stand a few hours or over night in Olney, 111. T. E. O'Donnell. a cold room, after which dissolve by gentle heat. Stir In one pint of Venice turpentine and add one gallon of IMartin's belt cement. Cement for Iieather Belts Cook for four or five hours by gentle heat, To make a cement for leather belts use being careful not to boil the mixture. A gutta percha, 16 parts ; pure white India water or steam jacketed kettle should be rubber, 4 parts ; dissolve, and then add used to avoid burning. If too thick, mix pitch, 2 parts ; shellac, 1 part ; and boiled with water. Albert F. Babbitt. linseed oil, 2 parts. W. R. Bowers. Attleboro, Mass. Birmingham. Eng. CEMENTS FOR LEATHER 13

Cement for Zieather viously warmed board and the whole clamped together for an hour or two ac- One ounce shellac, 2 ounces pitch, 2 cording to the width of the belt, its thick- ounces linseed oil, 4 ounces caoutchouc, 1 and the amount of strain it will have pound gutta percha. Melt together and ness to stand. This cement can be made in apply Lot. E. H. McClintock. larger quantities by observing the same West Somerville, Mass. proportions, and when cool it may be cut up into small pieces and kept in good condi- jar tightly closed. When Cement for Belts tion in a fruit it is wanted it will not be necessary to Mix 5 ounces bisulphite of carbon with heat up more than is wanted for the job spirits of turpentine, and enough % ounce in hand. Oscar E. Perrigo. gutta percha to make a paste. Thin the Neponset, Mass. ends of the belt so that when they are joined the thickness at the joint is the same as the thickness of the belt. If the belt ends are greasy, apply some blotting Glue for Iieather Belts paper and a hot iron to free them from Take common glue and isinglass, equal grease. Then apply some of the paste, in pot, cover with parts ; place them a glue and press the parts together, using screw water, let soak 10 hours, bring to a boiling clamps and two pieces of board of the heat, add pure tannin to make to consist- same width as the belt. The cement will ency of the white of an egg. Apply warm, dry in a short time, when the clamps can have surfaces clean and dry ; clamp joint be removed. I have cemented belts in this firmly and let dry. L. E. Muxcy. way at night, and in the morning they Syracuse, N. Y. were as nicely joined as could be wished. Los Angeles, Cal. J. M. Menegus. Cement for Pixing* Leather or Paper to Pulleys

Cement for Slicking' Iieather Fillet on Soak six pounds of carriage glue over Brass Patterns night ; then heat until thoroughly dissolved and add six pounds of white lead Melt together 8 parts pure beeswax and ground in oil. Reduce the mixture with 2 parts rosin ; cut into strips when cold oil until it is of a free working consist- and apply with a slicking tool of the ency. Now add one ounce of nitric acid proper radius. A piece of wire set into a and stir until thoroughly mixed. The pul- steel ball, and heated over a Bunsen burner ley surface should be made thoroughly is the best for this purpose. The pattern clean be should be slightly warmed to enable the and should warmed to about 125 cement to flow between the leather and degrees F. Then apply the cement and brass. When cold any superfluous cement clamp on the leather and let stand twelve may be removed with a piece of waste hours before using. If the job is done soaked in spirits of turpentine. right, the leather will have to be turned New York. H. J. Bachmann. ofO in a lathe in order to remove it. Lakewood, Ohio. E. B, Gafkey.

Cement for Iieatlier Belts Cheap Cement for General Use In an ordinary glue-pot soak overnight To make a cheap cement for general use, a pound of good fish glue in a pint of cold mix gum acacia (pulverized), 1 ounce; water. Heat this up, stirring until com- French isinglass, 2 ounces ; vinegar, 4 pletely dissolved. Then add one ounce of

ounces ; essence of sassafras. 5 drops. After dry white lead. When the mixture has mixing allow it to stand for 12 hours, then been again thoroughly stirred and is nearly heat until thoroughly dissolved when it is cool, add one ounce of grain alcohol, and ready for use. For covering pulleys with stir It well in. Heat up the cement again leather, paper, etc., add 14 ounce glycerine when it is wanted for use. In the use of to of cement, this cement care should be taken to have one quart heat and use while the laps freshly and smoothly cut, and as hot. Oily belts can be successfully spliced clean as possible. The cement should be with this cement by rubbing the scarfed evenly spread with a brush over both sur- ends with powdered sal-soda and applying of cement, is allowed faces and the surfaces placed in contact a coat which to dry ; as quickly as possible, and on each side then apply a second coating and put to- of the lapped belt should be placed a pre- gether. J. H. V. ;:

14 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Cement for Iieather and Iron inches, lay on the end of leather and rub To face a cast-iron pulley with leather it down hard with the corner of a piece of apply acetic acid to the face of the pulley wood. Fold back the leather and continue with a brush which will roughen it by to apply cement until the pulley is covered. rusting, and then when dry apply a cement Two thicknesses of leather are used. Make the first made of one pound of fish glue, and % thickness a butt joint, and the last pound of common glue, melted in a mix- a scarf or lap joint of about three or four ture of alcohol and water. The leather inches long. Make the laps on the driven should then be placed on the pulley and pulleys the way they run, and on the driv- dried under pressure. R. M. ers the opposite way. Pulleys should be cleaned by holding a piece of coarse sand paper against them. R. F. Williams. Montreal, Canada. Cezuent for Holding* Iieather on Iron Pulleys for Band Saws First soak twelve ounces of good glue in Cement for Fastening- Iieather to Iron four ounces of boiled oil cold water. Put To make a good quality of glue for into the glue and four ounces of turpentine fastening leather to iron, as required when dissolve three ounces of pot, and in this covering iron pulleys with leather, etc., the resin. When the resin is dissolved, add the following will be found to be a good re- glue. The resin and glue should be well ceipt : To one part of glue dissolved In stirred while dissolving. strong cider vinegar add 1 ounce of Venice Before applying the leather cover to a turpentine. Allow this to boil very slowly pulley have it warm and dry, and scrape over a moderate fire for 10 to 12 hours. It off all matter that may have accumulated should be applied to the surface of the on its face. Then, with a swab, apply iron, upon which the leather is to be ce- muriatic acid (full strength) to all parts mented, with a brush, while it is still quite of the face of the pulley. When dry, wipe warm. Before applying, the iron surface gently with waste. Cut leather lengthwise and the leather should be scraped perfectly of hide, and a little wider than the face of clean. Then put on the leather, press it the pulley. Have the cement melted in the firmly into place and allow to dry for a glue pot, apply it across the face of the few hours. pulley, with a brush, for about six or eight Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.

CEMENTS FOR ATTACHING GLASS AND MARBLE TO METALS

Cement for Fastening* Crlass Work to Cement for Attaching* Metal to Glass Brass Tubes To make a cement for attaching metal A cement for fastening glass work to to glass mix 2 ounces thick glue, 1 ounce brass tubes is made of rosin, 5 ounces linseed oil, % ounce turpentine. Boil to-

beeswax, 1 ounce ; and red ochre or Vene- gether for a short time when it will be fit tian red, in powder, 1 ounce. for use. Apply hot with a brush and Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers. clamp the parts together for aoout two days to allow the cement to dry. R. M. K.

Cement for Uniting Glass and Brass Cement for Fastening Metals to Glass It is often necessary, in electrical fac- tories and repair shops, to cement small Melt together in a water bath 15 parts brass parts to glass. A good cement for of copal vamish, 5 parts of drying oil, and this purpose is made from the following 3 parts of turpentine. When the ingredi- 1 part caustic soda, 3 parts resin, 3 parts ents are well mixed add 10 parts slaked plaster of paris, 5 parts water. Boil all lime. An elastic cement for fastening brass the constituents together imtil thoroughly to glass may be made by mixing 5 ounces mixed, and then allow to cool before using. of resin, 1 ounce beeswax, and 1 ounce of The cement hardens in half an hour. If it red ochre or Venetian red in powdered is desired that it should not harden so form. Melt the rosin and beeswax together quickly, substitute zinc white, white lead, by gentle heat, and gradually stir in the 01- slaked lime, for the plaster. Venetian red. W. R. Bowers. Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Doxnell. Birmingham, England. MISCELLANEOUS CEMENTS 15

Cement for Switchboard Repairs acid (vinegar) to form a thin paste. This A good cement for making repairs on cement must always be used immediately switchboards, when iron or other metal after being mixed, as it solidifies if allowed has to be fastened to marble, or where to stand for any length of time. It will be binding posts have been pulled out, may be found to be an excellent means for filling made to consist of 30 parts plaster of paris, up old binding-post holes, when instru- 10 parts iron filings, and % part of sal- ments have been moved. T. E. O'Donnell. ammoniac. These are mixed with acetic Urbana, 111.

CEMENTS FOR GLUING EMERY, METALS, ETC., TO A^TOOD

Ceiuent for Fastening- Tools in Their very tightly corked or sealed jar for four- Handles teen days, or a sufficient time to become Mix one part beeswax, one part fine dissolved, shaking the mixture daily. brick dust and four parts black rosin. Another cement is made by dissolving E. H. McClintock. pulverized gum shellac, 1 ounce, in 9% West S'omerville, Mass. ounces of strong ammonia. This of course must be kept tightly corked. It will not be as elastic as the first preparation. Cement for Gluing* Xlmery to Wood or Neponset, Mass. Oscar E. Perrigo. Metal The following is a good receipt for gluing I have used it emery to wood or metal and Cement for Joining Metals to Wood with success where other cements have Dissolve in boiling water 2% pounds failed. Melt together equal parts of shel- glue, 2 ounces gum ammoniac and drop by lac, white rosin and carbolic acid (in crys- drop 2 ounces of sulphuric acid. tals) adding the carbolic acid after the Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers. shellac and rosin have been melted. This makes a cement having great holding power. W. T. Cement for Fastening Emery to Wood To Fasten Bubher to Wood Melt and mix equal parts of shellac, Make a cement by macerating virgin gum white rosin and carbolic acid in crystals. rubber, or as pure rubber as can be had, Add the acid after the other two ingredi- cut in small pieces, in just enough naptha ents are melted. W. R. Bowers. or gasoline to cover it. Let it stand in a Birmingham, England.

CEMENTS FOR MISCELLANEOUS PURPOSES

Shellac Cement Cement Not Affected by Alcohol

Shellac is the basis of most adhesive Gold size is valuable as a cement for set- cements. A good one is made by thicken- ting together parts of vessels containing al- ing shellac varnish (shellac dissolved in cohol as it is not affected by alcohol as are alcohol) with dry white lead, mixing the some other good cements. It has been used two with a putty knife on a piece of glass. for setting the glass covers of circular levels, St. Johnsbury, Vt. W. H. Sargent. the glass afterward being burred over in the brass shell so that it is securely held me- chanically. Ordinary painters' size is used, for Mending Rubber Goods A Cement which may be prepared as follows : Boil raw Dissolve raw gum rubber or caoutchouc oil in a pan until it smokes, then set it on in bisulphide of carbon for a number of fire and let bum for a few moments. Cover days in a tightly stopped bottle until it the pan to extinguish the blaze and pour has the consistency of a thick paste. Make while warm into a receptacle containing red the surfaces to be cemented clean and dry lead and litharge in the proportion of one before applying, and press joint tightly to- ounce of each to a quart of oil. Keep at a gether. L. E. Mdncy. temperature of 70 degrees for ten days and Syracuse, N. Y. agitate once a day. M. E. Canek. 16 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Acid-proof Cement paste one-half its weight of turpentine and a small piece of alum. T, E. O'Donnell. Mix a concentrated solution of soda with Urbana, 111. pulverized glass to form a paste. Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers. Cement for Arc Iiamp Carbons The short ends of old arc lamp carbons Glycerine-litharg-e Cement may be cemented together to form rods A handy cement to have in the shop for which burn quite well, and are no more stopping leaks, etc., and which can be used brittle than ordinary carbons. The cement for cementing glass, brass, etc., is made by required is made by mixing potassium sili- mixing equal parts of litharge, commercial cate and carbon dust to a consistency of a glycerine and Portland cement. This ce- thick paste. The ends of the short carbon ment will harden under water and will pieces are faced off square, and, after ap- withstand hydrocarbon vapors. plication of the paste, are pressed together Dayton, Ohio. O. E. Voris. by hand. O. G.

Waterproof Cements for Glass Portland-tar Cement Probably the simplest and best aquarium cement used in marine practice A valuable cement (the formula for which is recom- desir- and other places where elasticity is mended by the United States Fish Com- mixing Portland cement in able, is made by mission) is made as follows: Stir together gas tar until the consistency is that of stifE by weight 8 parts pulverized putty (dry immediately as putty. It must be applied whiting), 1 part red lead and 1 part not afEected by it quickly hardens. It is litharge. Mix as wanted for use with pure never becomes brittle, a fact that water and raw linseed oil to a consistency of stifE it very valuable around the tail- makes putty. Allow it to dry a week before using. shafts of steamers or wherever there is Another waterproof cement is made by vibration. A. L. Graffam. much dry mixing 10 parts each by measure of fine Ya. Hampton, dry white sand plaster of paris and litharge and 1 part powdered resin. Mix as re- Waterproof Cements quired to a stiflE putty with boiled linseed To make a good waterproof cement in a oil. The linseed oil must be free from any thin paste form, dissolve 1 ounce powdered trace of adulteration with fish oil. It is resin in 10 ounces strong ammonia and sometimes necessary to boil pure raw lin- add 5 parts gelatine and 1 part solution seed oil a few moments to drive oflE the of acid chromate of lime. For waterproof water. A. L. Graffam. cement in paste form, add to hot starch Indiana, Pa.

GLUES AND THEIR PREPARATION

To Waterproof G-lned Joints should not be used, and every precaution taken to keep it sweet if the best To render glued joints waterproof, rub should be results would be obtained. M. E. Canek. common chalk on the surface of the wood where the glue is to be applied, and then coat with ordinary glue in the usual man- Glues V/hich Resist Moisture ner. The chalk will protect the glue from A glue cement that resists moisture is moisture so that the joint will hold as well made by mixing with the least possible after being soaked in water as before. I quantity of water 1 part glue, 1 part rosin tested this method some time ago and found and 14 part red ochre. that it works very well. W. S. Leonard. Another glue which resists moisture is Lansing. Mich. made of one pint glue melted in two quarts skimmed milk. Add powdered chalk to Use of Crlue make it stronger. A mistake not uncommonly made by A marine glue is made of one part of infrequent users of glue is to break up dry India rubber, 12 parts naphtha. Heat glue in hot water. This is bad practice as gently, mix and add 20 parts of powdered the adhesiveness is greatly impaired. Al- shellac. Pour out on a slab to cool. When ways soak dry glue in cold water and then used it has to be heated to about 250 de- cook, but do not cook too long, as this is grees F. A. L. MONRAD. injurious also. Glue that has soured New Haven, Conn. ;;

ETCHING FLUIDS 17

To Make Iiic[uid Glue when using it on furniture or other work Take one quart soft water and 2 pounds that will be exposed to a very dry atmosphere, is that a small addition of chloride of pale glue ; dissolve in a covered vessel glue dry- by the heat of a water bath, cool, and add of lime will tend to prevent the cracking. chloride of lime gradually 7 ounces of nitric acid (specific ing out and The is strongly hygroscopic and constantly at- gravity 1.335). This glue is very strong tracts enough moisture from the atmosphere and will not gelatinize. C. S. to keep it moist. Use about one-fourth To Prevent Glue Cracking' ounce of chloride to one quart of glue. A useful fact to know in regard to glue M. E. Canek. ETCHING FLUIDS Etchingf Fluid Etching* Fluid for Steel

I have found the following receipt for a The following receipt for etching fluid fluid for etching steel to be very satisfac- for steel, was highly recommended to me, tory, both for frosting effect and deep etch- and I have tried It In comparison with an- ing. Mix 1 ounce sulphate of copper, ^4 other fluid on hardened steel. I found it ounce alum, % teaspoonful of salt yj-educed will make very neat and sharply defined

to powder), with 1 gill of vinegac and 20 lines, and does the work very quickly :

drops of nitric acid. This fluid cyK be used Nitric acid, 60 parts ; water, 120 parts either for etching deeply or for frosting, ac- alcohol, 200 parts, and copper nitrate, 8 cording to the time it is allowed to act. parts. Keep in a bottle having glass stop- The parts of the work which are not to be per. To use the fluid, cover the surface to etched should be protected with beeswax or be marked with a thin even coat of wax some similar substance. S. C. and mark the lines with a machinist's scrlber. Wrap a bit of clean waste around the end of the scriber or a stick, and dipping same in the fluid, apply It to the IiicLuid for Etchingr on Steel marked surface. In a few minutes the wax The following solution will be found ex- may be scraped off, when fine lines will cellent and reliable either for very deep appear where the scriber marked the wax. etching upon steel, or for the purpose of The drippings from a lighted wax candle producing beautiful frosted effects upon the can be used for the coating, and this may surface. Mix together 1 ounce sulphuric be evenly spread with a knife heated in acid, 14 ounce alum, % teaspoonful salt, ^ the candle flame. W. S. Leonard. pint acetic acid or vinegar, and 20 drops Lansing, Mich. concentrated nitric acid. The etching effect Acids for Etching produced by this -solution depends upon the length of time it is allowed to act upon Soft Steel.—Nitric acid, 1 part ; water, the metal. It is applied in the same way 4 parts. as ordinary etching acid. Hard Steel. —Nitric acid, 2 parts ; acetic Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell. acid, 1 part. Deep Etching.—Hydrochloric acid, 10

parts ; chlorate of potash, 2 parts ; water, 88 parts. Htcliing' Acid Etching Bronze.—Nitric acid, 100 parts The various receipts for etching acid to muriatic acid, 5 parts. be used steel call on in most cases Brass.—Nitric acid, 16 parts, water, for two-thirds muriatic acid. I flnd that 160 parts. Dissolve six parts potassium the object of the muriatic acid is simply to chlorate in 100 parts of water, then mix remove the grease and foreign substance the two solutions and apply. from the steel, and that if only enough Where the name, initials, or monogram muriatic acid is used to accomplish this is etched on a tool, for instance a square purpose, the etching acid will work better blade, black asphaltum varnish makes the and quicker. I have used etching acid with best "resist." Have a rubber stamp made muriatic and nitric acids in almost all pro- with the design you wish to etch and portions and have found none so good as stamp the tools with the same, using the two-thirds nitric to one-third of muriatic varnish as you would Ink on the stamp, acid. In some cases I have had good suc- the stamp having a fancy border around cess even with a less proportion of the the outside edge. This method leaves the latter ingredient. Geo. W. Smith. letters or design in relief and makes an Marquette, Mich. unique appearance. E. W. Norton. :

18 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Etdungr Solution lead pencil (which is very much preferable The etching solution made by the follow- to a scriber) write or mark as wanted ing formula has an advantage over other through the wax so as to be sure to strike the steel etching solutions in that it will not rust the surface. Then daub on with a stick most highly polished steel, and it is not some etching acid made as follows '8 in any way injurious to the hands or cloth- parts nitric acid; 1 part muriatic acid. ing—as a matter of fact the hands can be If a lead pencil has been used the acid will begin to dipped into it with no ill effects. Mix 6 bubble immediately. Two or three minutes of the bubbling or foaming will be ounces distilled water ; 4 ounces sulphate of copper, 4 ounces chloride of sodium sufllcient for .marking, then soak up the (common salt); 1 dram sulphate of zinc; acid with a small piece of blotting paper and remove the % dram sulphate of alum. The solution is beeswax with a piece of waste wet with benzine, and if the piece be applied in the following manner : The piece to be marked is covered with melted bees- small enough dip it into a saturated solu- wax, and the inscription to be etched is tion of sal soda, or if the piece be large marked through the wax with a fine pointed swab over it with a piece of waste. This tool, leaving the wax undisturbed save neutralizes the remaining acid and prevents where the marking is to appear. The mark- rusting, which oil will not do. ings are then filled with the fluid and al- If it is desired to coat the piece with lowed to stand for three hours. The result beeswax without heating it, dissolve pure will be a very sharp and distinct lettering. beeswax in benzine until of the consistency Philadelphia, Pa. L. Meters. of thick cream and pour on to the steel and spread it evenly by rocking or blowing, and it To "Write on Steel lay aside to harden ; then use the lead pencil, etc., as before. This method will Stamping tools with steel stamps will take longer. Keep work away from the fire spring them and throw them out of true. or an open flame. A. S. Gun. Machinists should write their names on their steel tools using a fluid made of nitric acid 1 part, water 2 parts. Heat the EtcMngf on Copper tool gently until some wax that has been For acid resisting ground use a mixture put on it melts and spreads thinly over the of 2 ounces white wax to which when surface. When cold blacken the wax at a melted is added 1 ounce gum mastic in candle ; then write on the wax with a steel powdered form, a little at a time, until the point deep enough to touch the metal, and wax and gum are well mixed. Then, in cover the writing with the fluid. In about the same way, add 1 ounce powdered bitu- three minutes wash and remove the wax. men. When this is thoroughly mixed add This fluid, however, will spread more or to it % of its volume of essential oil of less and the writing will not be very fine. lavender. This should be well mixed and A better fiuid can be made thus : Alcohol allowed to cool. The paste can be applied 2 parts, nitric acid 1 part, distilled water with a hand roller, and if it is too thick, 15 parts, and nitrate of silver dram % can be made to fiow easier by adding a per quart of fiuid. Nitric acid, however, little more oil. When the paste is ap- produces vapors that are disagreeable and plied to the copper plate, expose it to a harmful. Chromic acid made by dissolving gentle heat in order to expel the oil of one part of bichromate of potash in 5 parts lavender. For a biting or etching acid use of sulphuric acid, for this reason is more a mixture of 5 parts of hydrochloric acid, desirable as an etching fluid, although much 1 part of chlorate of potash and 44 parts slower in its action. J. M. Menegus. of water. The water is heated and the Los Angeles, Cal. potash added. The acid is added first when the potash is fully dissolved. This mix- Etching* on Hardened Steel ture is used by immersing the whole ob- First heat an iron or an old pillar file ject to be etched, the object, of course, with a smooth side, and with it spread a first being covered on all sides by the acid thin, even coat of beeswax over the bright- resisting ground. Oliver E. Voris. ened surface to be etched. With a sharp Dayton, O.

HARDENING AND TEMPERING CARBON STEEL

To Harden Drills for Cnttingf Glass then reduce the solution by adding an equal To harden drills for cutting glass, dis- volume of water. Dip and use without solve zinc in muriatic acid to saturation, tempering. B. W. Norton. HARDENING AND TEMPERING 19

To Harden Fine Dies process is undesirable, it may be removed To successfully harden dies for fine work, by the following simple method. After the such as are used by jewelers and others, be part is hardened, dip it into a glass filled careful to have the surface free from all with muriatic acid and allow it to remain for five grease or oil, pack face downward in a seconds ; then plunge it into a pall mixture of equal parts of finely powdered of water. In this way the polish of the hardwood charcoal and charred bone. Dip steel will return and then temper will not in salt water and draw temper to 450 de- be affected. This method is much quicker grees F. Hardener. than obtaining a polish by the use of emery cloth. John C. Monhad. Buffalo, N. Y. To Prevent Scale in Hardening* Fine Dies It is possible to prevent the formation of any scale in the impression of fine jewelers' dies and the like, and retain the Steel Hardening and Tempering finished brilliancy of surface, by applying Compound a mixture of powdered ivory black and I would submit the following formula as sperm oil, mixed to the consistency of an excellent compound for hardening and paste. It is only necessary to apply a tempering steel : To 10 gallons of soft thin coat. Hardener. water, add 5 teacups of salt, 6 ounces saltpeter, 12 teaspoonfuls of powdered alum, and 1 teaspoonful corrosive sublimate. We To Remove Burnt Oil from Hardened have tempered flat cutters, Acme and U. S. Steel standard taps, counterbores, reamers, etc., To remove excess oil from parts that to our entire satisfaction, without drawing have been hardened in oil, place the arti- the temper in any of them. cles in a small tank of gasoline, which, Columbus, O. H. S. Hindman. when exposed to the air, will dry off immediately, allowing the part to be polished and tempered without the confusing and unsightly marks of burnt oil. New York. H. J. Bachmann. To Prevent lead from Sticking to the Work To prevent lead from sticking to work that has many small comers or grooves, Mixture for Hardening* Spiral Spring's when heated in a lead bath preparatory to The following oil bath mixture gives ex- hardening, mix lamp black with water or cellent results for hardening spiral springs : alcohol to the consistency of paint and Two gallons best whale oil, 2 pounds Rus- apply with a brush. Be sure that the mix- sian tallow, and % pound rosin. Boil the ture is thoroughly dried out before the tallow and the rosin together until dis- piece is dipped into the lead bath.

solved ; add the whale oil and stir up well, E. W. Norton. and then it is ready for use. Birmingham, Eng. W. R, Bowers.

Tempering Compound for Steel To Prevent the Sticking of Hot ]Lead The following receipt for a tempering To prevent molten lead from sticking to compovmd I have found very useful when it the pot or the tools heated in it, cover the was Impossible to procure a good grade of surface with a mixture of powdered char- steel. This compound will be found spe-

coal, 1 ; salt, yellow pruss- quart % pint ; cially good for cold chisels, center punches, iate of potash, 1 gill ; and cyanide of flat lathe drills, etc., and in fact almost potassium a lump the size of a walnut. any tool not having irregular forms or thin Hardener. cutting edges. To 6 quarts of good clear rain water add 1 ounce of corrosive sublimate and 2 pints common salt. Stir until Removing the Color Due to the Hard- thoroughly dissolved. This compound seems ening* Process to both harden and toughen steel ; the tools If a punch, reamer or other tool is to be are dipped and drawn in the usual manner. hardened, and the color resulting from that Louisville, Ky. Herrmann G. Kroeger. 20 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

To Temper Small Coil Spring's cold water. Water will do as well as alcohol to To temper small coil springs in a furnace mix the paint, but alcohol is the most burning wood the springs are exposed to convenient inasmuch as it can be used the heat of the flame and are quenched in without waiting for the paint to dry. If water is used, the paint must be thoroughly a composition of the following preparation : dry, as otherwise the moisture will cause To a barrel of flsh-oil, 10 quarts of rosin lead fly. J. and 12 quarts of tallow are added. If the the to E. Lawless. springs tempered in this mixture break, Pittsfield, Mass. more tallow is added, but if the break in- dicates brittleness of the steel rather than To Heat the Tips of Small Tools excessive hardness, 'a ball of yellow bees- Sometimes it is necessary to heat, for wax about 6 inches in diameter is added. the purpose of hardening or annealing, the The springs are drawn to a reddish purple tips of small tools, such as countersinks, by being placed on a frame having hori- etc. To do this without heating other por- zontally radiating arms like a star which tions of the tool is at times difficult to Is mounted on the end of a vertical rod. accomplish. If the tool is inserted into a The springs are laid on the star and are raw potato, exposing only the part to be lowered into a pot of melted lead, being heated, the operation is easily performed. held there for such time as is required to South Portland, Me. J. V. N. Cheney. draw to the desired color. A. L. Monrad. New Haven, Conn. Hardening* Bath To Prevent the Accumulation of Foreign To make an excellent hardening solution, Substances on Top of a HardeniniT mix pure rain water and salt strong enough Bath to float a raw potato, and to twenty gallons of the brine add three pints of oil of vitriol. Dust or small globules of oil, which Tool steel may be hardened at a surpris- sometimes give trouble by collecting at the ingly low heat in this solution, a very great top of hardening solutions, can be disposed advantage, of course, when hardening dif- of by placing a piece of ordinary newspaper ficult shapes. The solution, however, has on top of the solution ; the dirt and oil ad- one slight disadvantage in that it causes here to the paper and are thus readily the steel to rust quickly unless the steel is removed, thereby avoiding the labor of thoroughly scrubbed in strong hot soda skimming the bath. Emil Tschudi. water immediately after hardening. Tools Cincinnati, Ohio. hardened in this solution should come out of the bath a beautiful silver gray color, To Prevent Hot Iiead Sticking* to Work and if there are any black spots they are likely to be soft. T. W. Antano. About three years ago we had a new quick-break switch to manufacture in large quantities. One piece of the switch was Hardeningf Compound required to be hard at one end and soft In hardening small tools, some of the at the other. We tried several methods of more delicate and essential parts of the annealing so as to leave one end hard, but tool to be tempered are very apt to be found that the temper was drawn through- overheated and burned unless extraordinary out, and all were rejected. We finally de- care is exercised. The following is descrip- cided that a hot lead bath was the only tive of a compound that can be used to way that would anneal one end and leave prevent over-heating of such small delicate the other end hard, but we then encountered instruments during the process of temper- the difficulty of the hot lead sticking to ing. Dissolve 2 ounces of pure castile soap the work. A number of receipts were tried in enough warm water to make a thin for preventing it without success, but paste, and add to it the contents of a finally I discovered a process that is quick five-cent package of lamp black, mixing it and very cheap. Mix common whiting or well into a stiflE paste. This must be kept cold water paint with wood alcohol and securely sealed in a can. To use the com- paint the part that is to be annealed. The pound, slightly warm the small tool or hot lead will not stick, no matter how long object that Is to be hardened, and smear the piece is held in the pot. Of course, in the paste all over it. When dry, heat and the work mentioned, the pieces were low- quench in the usual way. As the paste is ered quickly Into the hot lead and removed removed by the bath, the work will be as soon as possible, in order to prevent clean enough to observe the color In tem- drawing the temper of the hard end, and pering. T. E. O'DONNELL. then the whole was plunged into a pail of Urbana, 111. HEAT TREATMENT OF HIGH-SPEED STEEL 21

Hardening* Formula for Cutting Tools A Tempering- Solution To make a hardening solution for metal A tempering solution used for high heats

cutting tools mix saltpeter, 2 ounces ; sal- may be composed of two parts Chili salt-

amoniac, 2 ounces ; alum, 2 ounces ; salt, peter and one part nitrate of soda. This l^i pound; and soft water, 3 gallons. tempering solution is used only at high Keep the solution in a stone jar, for it will temperatures, as it becomes solid at about eat a wooden tub and rust an iron pot. Do uOO degrees F. It is used in place of tem- not draw the temper but only warm the pering oils, as they often thicken after tools enough to relieve the hardening short use, and will flash or ignite at about strains. It is also well to rinse the tools (>00 degrees P., and often at a lower tem- well in water, for if this is not done, the perature. It should be used in connection solution will rust them. Toolmaker. with a tempering furnace, the heat being gaged by a thermometer. The thermometer Preparation fcr Producing' Extreme should be removed when the day's work is Hardness in Steel over. At night, two iron plugs, with a fairly liberal taper per foot, and long The steel to be hardened should be im- enough to reach from the inside bottom of mersed in a mixture of 4 parts of water, the tank containing the bath, to about four 2 parts of salt, and 1 part of flour. To inches above the top of the solution, should get the steel thoroughlj- coated it should be placed vertically with the small end of be slightly heated before dipping in the the taper down, and some little distance composition. After dipping, it is heated to apart. These should be permitted to stay a cherry red and plunged in soft water. in the solution when it solidifies. On the This will make the steel harder than if following morning, these iron plugs should simply heated and dipped in water. S. C. be unscrewed and removed. The holes left in the solidified solution by these plugs To Harden Steel Without Scaling' afford an escape for gases that form in Articles made of tool steel and polished reheating the bath. E. S. Wheeleu. may be hardened without raising a scale, thereby destroying the polish, by the fol-

lowing method : Prepare equal parts in bulk of common salt and fine cornmeal, Alloys for Drawing* Colors on Steel well mixed. Dip the article to be hardened first into water, then into the mixture and Alloys of various composition are success- place it carefully into the fire. When hot fully used for drawing colors on steel. To enough to melt the mixture, take from the draw to a straw color use 2 parts of lead fire and dip or roll in the salt and meal, and 1 part of tin, and melt in an iron replace in the fire and bring to the required ladle. Hold the steel piece to be drawn in heat for hardening. Watch the piece closely the alloy as it melts and it will turn to and if any part of it shows signs of getting straw color. This mixture melts at a tem- "dry" sprinkle some of the mixture on it. pei'ature of about 437 degrees F. For The mixture, when exposed to heat, forms darker yellow, use 9 parts of lead to 4 a flux over the surface of the steel which parts of tin, which melts at 458 degrees F. excludes the air and prevents oxidation, For purple, use 3 parts of lead to 1 part and when cooled in water or oil comes off of tin, the melting temperature being 482 easily, leaving the surface as smooth as degrees F. For violet, use 9 parts of lead before heating. Borax would possibly give to 2 parts of tin, which melts at 594 de- the same result, but is sometimes difficult grees F. Lead without any alloy will draw to remove when cold. E. C. Noble. steel to a dark blue. Rock Falls, 111. Cleveland, Ohio. Max Dehne.

HEAT TREATMENT OP HIGH-SPEED STEEL

To Anneal Higfh-speed and Air-harden- cherry red, giving time for the contents of ing* Steels the pipe to reach this temperature, and To anneal "Novo" or "Blue Chip" high- then set in a dry, sheltered place to cool. speed steel or any of the air-hardening The steel will be found annealed so that steels, pack the steel in a piece of gas pipe it can be readily drilled, turned, planed or with powdered charcoal, and seal the ends worked as required. with clay or caps screwed on. Heat to a A. A. Stevenson. :;

22 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Bath for Hardening Eigh-speed Steel speed steel with success, enabling it to be An excellent bath for hardening high- hardened by heating In an ordinary gas speed steel consists of a mixture of table oven, and thus making unnecessary the very high heat usually called for in salt and paraflQne oil, In the proportion of hardening one pound of table salt to each gallon of such steels. Mix 2 pounds rye meal ; 1

pound common salt ; 14 pound pulverized pure oil. The steel is heated to a lemon

borax pound pulverized charcoal ; 1-3 color, and plunged into the bath, being kept ; % pint (or pound) liquid cyanide of potas- In motion until it has thoroughly cooled. % sium gill or 2 ounces of water glass The steel should come out of this bath gray ; y^

(silicate of soda) ; and 3 pints of water. In color, and nearly free from black spots. The liquid cyanide is made by dissolving The bath referred to can be used for almost 8 ounces of pulverized potassium cyanide in all brands of high-speed steel, with good one pint of boiling water. Mix thoroughly results. It has been used to great advan- to form a paste. tage for the Midvale steel, and also on a When using this paste I have found it large number of tools made of Novo, Sime- best to apply it in the following manner teora, Rex, Jessop high-speed, and Blue Provide a small cast-iron vessel or a cruci- Chip steel. On all these, good results have ble of the shape of a drip-pan, and spread been obtained, but it may be added that a thin layer of the paste on the bottom this bath seems to give the best results put the work in the pan and cover that with the Midvale steel. H. S. Steel. with paste also. Place work and pan in the gas oven and heat until it reaches a Paste for Hardening- Hig-h-speed Steel nice full red. Dip in sperm, fish or kero- The hardening paste made according to sene oil. Jos. M. Stabel. the following receipt has been used on high- Rochester, N. Y.

CASE-HARDENING Case-hardening Process for Cold Boiled Mottled Case-hardened Articles Steel There are several ways of obtaining the To successfully case-harden common cold beautiful mottled effect on case-hardened rolled steel so that it will answer for the articles, but one of the simplest and most cutters of inserted reamers, etc., pack the effective methods is in use in the factory of cutters in granulated raw bone in a cast the Thos. B. Jeflfery Co., Kenosha, Wis. Iron box with at least one-half inch layer Here the usual cooling tank and screen for of bone between the cutters and the sides catching the work are in use, but in addi- of the box. Put on an iron cover and lute tion, an air pipe is run into the bottom of

with fire-clay ; heat in a gas furnace to al- the tank in such a way that when the air most a white heat for from two to five is turned on the water is filled with air hours according to the size of the box. bubbles and is violently agitated. The re- Then draw the box, open and dump quickly sult of these air bubbles striking the cyanide-

into a bath composed of the following : 1 coated articles during the cooling process, quart of vitriol (sulphuric acid), 4 pecks is some of the prettiest mottled work Im- common salt, 2 pounds saltpeter, 8 pounds aginable. E. V. alum, 1 pound prussiate potash, 1 pound To Mottle Case-hardened Pieces cyanide potash and 40 gallons soft water. S. Pittsburg, Pa. F. Wackermann. A simple and effective way to get a mottled effect in case-hardening with cyanide of

potassium is as follows : Set an open pail for Case-hardening Preparation Formula or jar imder a running hydrant, get the Yellow prussiate of potash, by weight, 7 pieces good and hot (bright red) in a ladle parts ; bichromate of potash, 1 part ; com- of molten cyanide, then take out singly

mon salt, 8 parts ; pulverize the crystals with tweezers and simply throw them into and mix thoroughly. Heat the piece to be the water. The air bubbles rising through hardened to a dark red and dip into the the water give the desired mottled effect. preparation or sprinkle it on the piece. A still better process, if an air blast is at Return to the fire and let it soak, then hand, is to connect a rubber hose in some repeat several times according to the depth manner to the bottom of the pail, so that a of hardened surface wanted. Finally stream of air enters the water. This plan plunge into water or oil. This may be serves well where no special appliance is used on tool steel, soft steel or iron. available for this class of work. Meriden, Conn. James P. Hates. Chicago, 111. Harry Ash. ANNEALING 23

Good Case-hardeuing' Mixtures with greasy hands. Pack the work with plugged One part sal-ammoniac and 3 parts the mixture In a common gas pipe at one end, and seal at the other with prussiate of potash ; or, 1 part prussiate asbestos cement. Heat in a furnace to a of potash, 2 parts bone dust and 2 parts cherry red keep at that heat for sal-ammoniac. E. H. McClintock. dark and about 4 or 5 hours. Dump in a tank with West Somerville, Mass. compressed air bubbling up through the bottom. If the colors are too gaudy leave To Case-harden a Piece Iiocally out the cyanide. J. F. Sallows. To case-harden part of a piece to a line Grand Rapids, Mich. or in a spot cover the part or surface to Partial Case-hardening* be hardened with a moderately heavy coat The entire surface of the work, or that of black japan enamel. I prefer this as it part which is to be hardened, should be bakes on more closely than anything else. coated with a moderately heavy coat of Clean the work thoroughly, then put on a japan enamel, and then a medium heavy heavy coat of copper and the work is now coat of copper should be applied to the re- ready to be carbonized, and is packed in a maining portion of the work. In applying pot in bone or leather in the usual manner. the copper, care should be taken not to Heat long enough to give the required depth disturb the japan. After the copper is of "case." Then take out of the fire and applied, the piece is ready to be carbonized. cool down in the pot. When cold reheat It should be packed, and heated to a bright and dip in oil or water. The copper blocks red, and held at this heat long enough for the absorption of carbon while the japan the requirements of the work. Then the bums ofC and allows the carbon in the box or case, containing the pieces to be bone or leather to be absorbed by the iron. case-hardened, are taken out of the fire and E. W. Norton. the work is permitted to cool in the box. When cool, the work is taken out and re- To Case-harden for Colors heated in the open fire, and dipped In oil Mix 10 parts charred bone, 6 parts wood or water. The copper prevents the absorp- charcoal, 4 parts charred leather and 1 tion of the carbon, while the japan enamel part of powdered cyanide potassium. Clean bums off and allows the carbon to take the work thoroughly, and do not handle effect. E. S. Wheeler.

ANNEALING STEEL AND OTHER METALS Annealing Steel an ash heap and cover with ashes. By this Cover the steel with fire clay, and heat method the charcoal is produced, so to to a red heat. Then allow the steel to say, automatically. Wm. B. Brooks. cool over night in a furnace or forge. This New Kensington, Pa. method will prove satisfactory when other means fail. Samuel H. Owens. To Anneal Finished Copper Rockford, 111. To make a mixture for protecting finished copper pieces which require annealing mix To Anneal Steel or Iron to a thick consistency white cold water Smear the iron or steel with tallow, and paint and alcohol and apply to the copper with brush. heat slowly in a charcoal fire until it is a a Allow the mixture to dry then heat to dark red. Allow it to cool itself. This and a low red by dipping into melted method is all right for very hard tool pure lead at the required tempera- steel. R. B. Casey. ture. Cool in air or water, preferably the Schenectady, N. Y. latter. L. C. Carr. Lynn, Mass.

Annealing Steel Annealing Steel Having: Hard and Soft Heat slowly or rather evenly to a dull Spots red heat. Put it in a dark place or comer, To anneal steel having hard and soft box or barre"^, until all signs of red have spots, remove the scale, and heat slowly and just disappeared, then quench in water, evenly to a little above a dark red. Im- taking care to hold it still. When anneal- merse in fresh water until almost cool. ing flat stock, heat evenly and thoroughly, Heat immediately to a dark red and anneal place between two planed pine boards on in the usual way. C. P. Emerson. 24 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

To Anneal Zinc failing : Heat in oil to about 500 degrees

In working zinc ttie greatest loss is on F. and plunge in hot soda water, which account of tlie zinc cracliing and being too works the double operation of drawing the brittle to handle to advantage. It is sur- zinc to the proper degree and at the same prising to find how very few mechanics time cleanses the surface from the oil. understand the annealing or malleablizing Hardener. of same. The following will be found un-

METHODS FOR HEAT TREATMENT OP CAST IRON CMlling* Cast Iron To Toug-hen and Surface Harden Cast Iron Mix together % pint of oil of vitriol, 2 ounces of saltpeter, and 3 gallons of clean To toughen and surface harden small water. Heat the casting, and plunge it in cast iron machine parts, which are sub- this solution, keeping it there until cold. jected to wear, such as small gears, cams, Dayton, O. George E. Hetzler. etc., heat to a dull red and quench in a saturated solution of cyanide of potash and rZo Soften Hard Cast Iron for Drilling water which should be kept as near boiling Heat to a cherry red, allowing it to lie point as possible. This can be accom- level in the fire. Then with a pair of cold plished best by putting the solution in an tongs put on a piece of sulphur a little less iron pot near the fire in which the parts than the size hole to be drilled. This will are being heated. J. H. V. soften the iron entirely through, providing It is not too thick. O. E. VORis. Dayton, O. To Harden Cast Iron To harden cast iron take % pint vitriol Iron Case-hardening* Cast (sulphuric acid), 1 peck common salt, % To successfully case-harden cast iron, the pound saltpeter, 2 pounds alum, % pound pieces to be hardened should be heated to a prussiate potash, and % pound cyanide red heat, then rolled in a composition of potash, dissolve in 10 gallons of water. equal parts of prussiate of potash, sal- Heat iron to a cherry red, dip, repeating ammoniac and saltpeter. All pulverized until hard enough. W. T. Sears. and thoroughly mixed. Every part of the Harrisburg, Pa. casting must be covered by the composition before plunging (red-hot) into a bath of 2 ounces prussiate of potash and 4 ounces Hardening^ Cast Iron sal-ammoniac to each gallon of cold The following process can be used for water. A. hardening cast iron whether rough or after machining. The casting is first heated to To Case-harden Cast Iron a cherry-red heat ; it is then dipped in a To case-harden cast iron use a pot of bath which consists of a practically anhy- suitable size for the piece, packing it in drous acid of high heat-conducting power, with 2/3 raw bone and 1/3 charcoal ground preferably sulphuric acid of a specific grav- to about the same size as the bone. S'eal ity of from 1.8 to 1.9, to which is added the pot cover with fire-clay and place in a a suitable quantity of one or more of the furnace and run it about 5 hours. Then heavy metals or their compounds—such, for take out the work and dip in oil or water. example, as arsenic or the like. The pre- E. W. Norton. ferable ingredients of the bath are sulphuric acid of a specific gravity of approximately To Case-harden Cast Iron 1.84 and red arsenic in the proportions of I have successfully case-hardened cast % pound of red arsenic crystals to 1 gal-

iron, using the following receipt : Pulverize lon of sulphuric acid. The castings may be and mix together equal weights of salt- either suddenly dipped in the aforemen- peter, prussiate of potash and sal-am- tioned mixture, and then taken out and moniac. Make a dipping solution by add- cooled in water, or they may be left in ing to each quart of cold water 1 ounce the bath until cool. In preparing the bath, prussiate of potash and % ounce sal-am- when sulphuric acid and red arsenic are moniac. Heat the cast iron pieces till red- used, better results are obtained when the hot, roll them in the powder, and then crystals are added to the sulphuric acid plunge them into the liquid. and the bath is allowed to stand for about Los Angeles, Cal. J. M. Meneqds. a week before using. O. G. ;

POLISHING BRASS, NICKEL AND STEEL 25

To Anneal Iron Casting's wires should be placed in the box, project- the cover they can be Iron castings that are too hard to ma- ing through where grasped pulled chine or which have hard spots destructive conveniently with tongs and out at time to show far the heat to tools maj- be nicely annealed by packing one a how progressed. the interior has closely in covered cast iron boxes with black has When heat the box should be manganese, and heating to a temperature reached a bright red covered with ashes so that of 1,500 or 1.600 degrees F., until thoroughly hauled out and It is claimed heated through. A large box packed in this it will cool slowly. that hard iron castings can be manner with a closely-fitted cover luted spots in gray softened with fire-clay must be heated for several with black manganese by applying the man- hours to raise the interior to the annealing ganese and heating to a dull red, using a temperature. To be sure of getting the in- blow-torch or any other convenient means terior heated properly, a number of witness of heating. M. E. Canek.

POLISHING BRASS, NICKEL AND STEEL Compound for Cleaning Brass Unchang-ing- Crloss on Cast Iron To make a brass cleaning compound use The articles arc well scrubbed with a oxalic acid, 1 ounce ; rotten stone. t5 diluted acid, dried and smoothed with a ounces ; enough whale oil and spirits of file, wire brush or the like. Then they are turpentine of equal parts to mix and make rubbed repeatedly with ordinary crude a paste. G. E. Hetzler. petroleum and let dry each time ; finally Dayton, Ohio. they are well rubbed with a hair brush, which gives them a dark glossy appearance which will stand heat and serve as pro- To Remove Bluing* from Tempered Steel tection against rusting. Articles once Plunge the blue hot article into a bath treated in this manner need later on be of sulphuric acid 1 part, water 16 parts only rubbed with petroleum and brushed up then into a bath of lime and water (to again. D. neutralize the acid) and rub it off quickly with a dry cloth and Vienna lime. Tbe Metal Folisli result will be a most beautiful polish. A good metal polish for gold, silver, Angelica, N. Y. F. H. Jackson. brass, nickel, etc., can be made by taking powdered crocus and mixing enough kero- Folisli for Brass sene oil with it to make a paste. This An excellent liquid polish for articles of paste must bo rubbed very thoroughly over the article to be polished. Then take a brass may be made as follows : Add together and mix thoroughly, 100 parts of fiannel cloth and rub lightly and rapidly powdered pumice stone, 2 parts oil of tur- until a brilliant polish is obtained. pentine, 12 parts soft soap and 12 parts of Cleveland, O. Herbert C. Snow. fat, oil or lard. When thoroughly mixed, add the mixture to a solution of 3 parts A ITickel Buff oxalic acid dissolved in 40 parts of hot For bufling nickel work, there is nothing water. Stir well until a uniform paste is that will give a luster equal to Vienna lime formed. Apply to surface of any article composition. It can be made by the user, of brass, by means of a cloth, rubbing it but it is more satisfactory to buy it of the in well. Remove remnant and polish with manufacturer, as when homemade it air- a clean, dry cloth. T. E. O'Donnell. slacks very rapidly ; it is put up by the Urbana, 111. makers in air-tight cans of about one pound each, and this shape will keep until Compound for Folisliingr Brass used up. It is also a good buflang composi- To 2 quarts of rainwater add 3 ounces tion on brass or other metals where there of powdered rotten stone, 2 ounces of is not much cutting down to do, as it will pumice stone and 4 ounces oxalic acid. cut down and color in one operation. If Mix thoroughly together and let it stand a there is much cutting down, go over the day or two before using. Shake it before work first with tripoli, then color with using and after application polish the brass rouge or lime. All these compositions are with a dry woolen cloth or chamois skin. put up in different grades for fast cutting, Donald A. Hampson. and also for dry or greasy work. Middletown, N. Y. Bridgeport, Conn. J. L. Lucas. :

26 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Cleaning- the Polished Farts of provided it is kept in tightly closed bot- Machinery- tles, and shaken well before using. Apply Stains of every description, such as may the solution with a piece of cloth. When dry, polish cloth. result from dried oil, etc., may be easily with a soft, clean and effectively removed by the application Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell. of alcohol. Calvin B. Ross. Sringfleld, O. To Polish Nickel Plate Apply rouge with a little fresh lard or Metal Polish lard oil with a piece of buckskin. Rub the Get two or three oyster or clam shells bright parts, using as little of the rouge and bum them on clear coal fire for fifteen and oil as possible. Wipe off with a clean cloth slightly oiled. every and or twenty minutes ; then powder them in a Wipe day mortar. This makes a superior metal polish as often as necessary. This is also polish. It is the best thing I have ever an excellent preventative of rust. used for polishing silver and gold articles, Donald A. Hampson. and if finely pulverized can be used on the Middletown, N. Y. most delicate article without injury. Joliet, 111. Rex McKee. Paste Metal Polish

A paste metal polish that is good for any Polish for Brass Polish for Steel — smooth surface, whether hot or cold, can A good polish for brass is made by put- be obtained from the following ingredients, ting 2 ounces of sulphate of nickel and 2 which will make about 20 pounds of the ounces of nitric acid in an open vessel and polish : 2 ounces of spermaceti, 4 ounces allowing them to mix thoroughly. Then of cake tallow, 10 star candles, 2^^ pints add water. of raw linseed oil, 2% pints of kerosene, To make a polish for steel dissolve 2 and 5 pounds of tripoli powder. Procure a ounces each of oxalic acid, pumice stone, crock that will hold 3 or 4 gallons. Put ammonia, and whiting in a quart of water. in the tallow, spermaceti and candles, and New York. Herman Jonson. melt over a slow fire. Then add the linseed oil and kerosene, and stir well. While this mixture is still warm, remove from the Iiiquid Polish Metal fire, and add the tripoli powder very A good liquid metal polish for cold slowly while constantly stirring the mix- smooth surfaces, either iron or brass, may ture. When all the powder has been added, be made from the following ingredients allow to cool. To use, apply with a soft To 3 parts of benzine add 2 ounces of cloth, and after drying, remove the rem- oxalic acid and 1% pound of silicate acid nant and rub the surface with a piece of powder. This polish may be made in large soft flannel. T. E. O'Donnell. quantities and set aside for further use Urbana, 111.

PRODUCING BLUE OR BRO^WTST COLORS ON STEEL

To Produce Brown Finish on Steel To Blue Steel Without Heating-

To produce the rich brown finish that is To blue steel without heating it, connect commonly used on large guns use sulphate a small steam pipe to a wooden box so that

of copper, 1 ovuice ; sweet spirits nitre, 1 steam may fiow continuously into it. Put a ounce ; distilled water, 1 pint. bath of the following ingredients in the Four coats are applied, allow several box : Iron chloride (muriatic tincture of hours to elapse between the successive steel), 1 ounce; alcohol (spirits of wine), coats, brushing after each if necessary. 1 ounce ; corrosive sublimate (mercury bi- After the last coat rub down hard and chloride), % ounce; aquafortis (strong allow to dry 24 hours. This gives a red- nitric acid), % ounce; blue stone (copper dish-brown color without gloss. By adding sulphate) ounce ; and water, 1 quart. arsenic to the mixture before last coat a , % The vapor arising from this mixture forms deeper hue is obtained. The polish is ob- a deposit on the articles. After having been tained by means of a mixture of boiled oil, beeswax, and turpentine, comparatively exposed to the vapors for a number of thick. Rub in well with cotton cloth and hours, they are rubbed off with cloth, and finally with the palm of the hand. the operation repeated if a darker hue is R. P. Perry. required. W. J. Kaup. ;

BLACK COLORS ON IRON AND STEEL 27

Bluing' Iron or Steel Stir until all the lumps are dissolved, and Mix one part clean sand with one part then add the blue solution. Before apply- powdered charcoal, heat the whole evenly ing, the surface to be blued should be in a pan or convenient receptacle until the cleaned and brightened with emery cloth. piece, which has first received its finishing The enamel i? best applied with a soft polish and been covered by the mixture, brush. The solution may be put into a comes to the desired color. When cool, bottle and set aside for future use, provided wipe dry with cloth. Nebalcm. the bottle is securely corked. Olney, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.

Steel-blue Enamel A steel-blue enamel suitable for applying To Blue Gun Barrels to steel and also other metals to give them To blue gun barrels and other pieces steel-blue a polished surface, may be made dissolve 2 parts of crystallized chloride of

in the following way : Dissolve 1 part of iron ; 2 parts solid chloride of antimony ; 1 borax in 4 parts of water. Macerate 5 part gallic acid in 4 or 5 parts of water ; parts bleached shellac in 5 parts of alcohol. apply with a small sponge, and let dry in In a small quantity of alcohol dissolve the air. Repeat this two or three times, some methylene blue of sufficient amoimt to then wash with water, and dry. Rub with give the color desired. Heat the first or boiled linseed oil to deepen the shade. Re- watery solution to boiling, and while con- peat this until satisfied with the result. stantly stirring add the alcoholic solution. New Britain, Conn. F. L. En'Gel.

PRODUCING BLACK COLOR ON IRON AND STEEL

To Give Iron a Black Color Black Finisli for Steel

To si^e iron a dead black color, clean The pieces to be blackened should first all grease and dirt from the metal, and be polished with No. 120 emery cloth. After apply the following solution either with a polishing, the surfaces should be cleaned brush or by dipping. Mix together thor- carefully, and then the work placed over oughly 1 part bismuth chloride, 2 parts the fire and drawn evenly to a second blue. mercuric bichloride, 1 part copper chloride, Then, the work is dipped in lard or sperm 6 parts hydrochloric acid, 5 parts alcohol oil, from which it is immediately removed, and 52 parts water. As soon as these and all loose oil shaken off. This prevents parts are thoroughly mixed, the compound the forming of blisters. An old piece of is ready for use. After applying the com- rubber, for instance a piece of old garden pound, the iron is placed in boiling water hose, is then placed on the fire, and as it and allowed to remain for one-half hour, the bums, the work is held over the flame and water being kept at the same temperature. smoke that comes from the rubber, until it Repeat this operation mitil the color is is covered with a thick coat of black soot. deep enough, fix color then the by placing The work is then removed from the fire, the iron for a short time in bath of a and permitted to cool oflE slowly. When boiling oil. After removing, heat in an cool, it is rubbed with an oiled cloth. All oven until the surplus oil is all driven off. this must be done in one heat. Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Doxxell. Tarrytown, N. Y. E. W. Norton.

Black Oxide Coat for Steel

A fine black coat is produced on steel if To Blacken Articles which are not treated in the following manner : An Soldered oxidized skm is first produced in some suitable manner on the surface of the steel Heat the article to a low heat and dip this is converted into black oxide by means into a solution of nitrate of copper, made of hot water and continued until the coat by dissolving copper in nitric acid. Then of oxide is thick enough. Then the articles heat the piece dipped over a spirit lamp or are dipped in lukewarm water to remove Bunsen burner until from greenish color It any acid or salty particles, and then some finally turns black. H. A. Sherwood. olive oil is poured over the whole. D. Bridgeport, Conn. ;

28 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

To Make Black Marks on Graduated to thoroughly dry. When hard, the work Surfaces is driven in the lathe, and the superfluous The scale is varnished over with a little varnish polished off with fine flour emery thin shellac varnish, so as to sink into all cloth until only that in the cuts is left. the cuts. When this is dry, a black var- This gives a very distinct marking and fine nish of lampblack and shellac is spread on, finish to scale. F, il. Jacksox. so as to fill all the cuts. This is allowed Angelica, N. Y.

LACQUERS AND ENAMELS FOR STEEL Iiacquering- Effect on Polished Steel Enamel for Iron or Steel Mutton suet burnt on a polished surface Make an enamel by mixing 2 ounces of produces a brilliant black which is very burnt umber with 1 quart boiled linseed lasting. H. T. Millar. oil, heating, and then adding 1 ounce Manchester, Eng. asphaltum. Keep hot until thoroughly mixed, and thin with a small quantity of turpentine. Have the surface of the Bronzing- Fluid for Steel parts to be enameled thoroughly cleaned, and To obtain a light bronzing fluid use apply the enamel with a camel's hair brush, nitric acid, 6 parts ; nitric ether, 5 parts and allow it to set. Then place in an alcohol, 5 parts ; muriate of iron, 5 parts. oven and bake for 6 hours, at a tempera- Mix thoroughly and then add 10 parts sul- ture of 250 degrees F. When cool, rub phate of copper dissolved in 50 parts of down with steel wool, and then apply the water. O. G. finishing coat of the desired color, and allow to bake for 6 or 8 hours. Rub down, Bnamel Glaze for Coatingr Iron Fans when cool, with a soft cloth, then varnish To prepare an enamel glaze for coating and bake again at 200 degrees F, The iron pans use flint glass, 130 parts ; car- heating and cooling should be done gradu- bonate of soda, 20.5 parts ; boracic acid, 12 ally each time so as not to crack the parts. Dry at a temperature of 212 de- enamel. Black enamel usually requires a grees and then heat to redness and anneal, higher degree of temperature than any that is, cool down very slowly. other kind, or about 300 degrees F. Birmingham, Eng. W. R, Bowers. Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.

PRODUCING COATINGS OP COPPER OR BRASS ON IRON To Brass Small Articles boracic acid and then dipping into a pot To brass small articles of iron or steel of melted spelter, afterwards wiping off the article while still hot. drop them into a quart of water and y^ The electro-plating ounce each of sulphate of copper and pro- process, however, is the best for this pur- tochloride of tin. Stir the articles in this pose. A coating of copper should then first solution until desired color is obtained. be deposited on the steel, the same as if it R. M. were to be nickel-plated, and then followed with an electro-plating of yellow brass. Cleveland, Ohio. L. Miller. Brassing* Iron Iron ornaments are covered with copper Copper Solution that will Color on Oily or brass by properly preparing the surface Steel so as to remove all organic matter which To make a copper solution that will color would prevent adhesion, and then plunging on oily steel, take % ounce sulphate copper them into melted brass, or copper. A thin (blue vitriol), 4 ounces water, 1 table- coating is thus spread over the iron, and it spoonful oil of vitriol (commercial sulphu- admits of being polished or burnished. The ric acid) and dissolve the sulphate of cop- better the article is finished and cleaned be- per in the water, then slowly add the oil fore dipping, the better will be the final of vitriol a few drops at a time, shaking result. R. B. Casey. well at each addition. Keep the mixture Schenectady, N. Y. away from the face when adding the oil of

vitriol ; if the oil of vitriol is all poured Coating* Iron or Steel in the bottle at once the stuff will boil and Iron or steel may be given a permanent shatter the bottle, as I learned by experi- coating of yellow brass by using a flux of ence. F. W. B. FINISHING AND COATING PROCESSES 29

To Prepare Iron or Brass for Ziaying* Copper Coating- Solution Out Work A copper coating solution for use when To coat the finished surface of iron and laying out work on iron or steel which I steel with a copper film to facilitate laying have found more satisfactory than the or- out work, make a solution of sulphate of dinary blue vitriol is a mixture of saturated copper and apply to the work with a piece solution of zinc chloride with a very little of clean waste ; the copper film shows up copper sulphate added, say a half-dozen the lines very plainly. This solution can drops of copper sulphate to a spoonful of also be used on brass by simply sprinkling zinc chloride solution. When a piece of iron filings on the brass surface, and then steel Is rubbed with waste moistened in this applying the copper sulphate solution. The solution It produces a bright copper surface surface to be coated should in all cases be that does not easily rub off. free from oil, grease, etc. Cleveland, Ohio. Milton Burgess. Dayton, O. Oliver E. Voris.

Copper Plating- Cast Iron To Coat Iron with Copper In the process of covering cast iron with Polish the iron by rubbing it well with a coating of copper the pieces of cast iron cream of tartar, and afterward with char- are first placed in a bath made of 50 parts coal powder, and place the metal in hydro- of hydrochloric acid, specific gravity 1.1, chloric acid diluted with three times its and one part of nitric acid ; they are next volume of water, in which a few drops of immersed in a second bath comprised of a solution of sulphate of copper is poured. 10 parts nitric acid and 10 parts chloride After a few minutes withdraw the iron and of copper dissolved in 80 parts of hydro- rub with a piece of cloth, then replace it chloric acid, specific gravity 1.1. The in the solution, to which add another por- pieces are then rubbed with a woolen cloth tion of sulphate of copper. By following and immersed again until the desired thick- this plan the layer of cooper may be ness of copper is deposited. To give a increased at pleasure. Finally, immerse the bronze appearance the copper surface is iron in a solution of soda, wipe clean and rubbed with a mixture of 4 parts sal-am- polish with chalk. The coating thus ob- moniac and one part each of oxalic acid tained will be as firm and durable as that and acetic acid dissolved in 30 parts of deposited by the electrotype process. water. A. L. Monrad. Pittsburg, Pa. U. Peter.s. New Haven, Conn.

MISCELLANEOUS FINISHING AND COATING PROCESSES FOR IRON AND STEEL

Tinning- Cast Iron of nitric acid and 40 cubic centimeters of To tin cast-iron articles, dissolve chlor- water, same being measured by a druggist. ide of tin in water until the solution is The pieces I refer to were case-hardened in the usual in fully saturated ; this saturated solution is manner (packed bone dust). to be thinned down when needed for use, After immersing as above stated, rinse off by ten times its volume of water. The in clear running water and you will not articles which are to be tinned are to be be able to distinguish the difference be- wrapped around lightly with zinc sheet or tween the part which was formerly bright wire and left in the solution ten to fifteen and the dark portion. Harry Ash. minutes. On removing the articles they Chicago, 111. are to be dried in sawdust, after washing Wasli for Whitening" Metal Work for well with clean water and brushing them Iiaying* Out with a wire brush, and then polished with Mix whiting and white lead with boiled prepared chalk. Robert Grimshaw. linseed oil to a thick paste ; add some Hannover, Germany. japan dryer, and thin with benzine or gasoline. This makes a fine preparation Coloring- Steel for whitening sheet iron and other work Having occasion to darken polished spots previous to laying out, as any lines drawn on case-hardened parts in order to make the on the surface show up very distinctly. It entire pieces appear uniform, I immersed also makes a very good stenciling or mark- them for about 20 seconds in a solution ing paint. A. D. Knauel. made as follows : Eight cubic centimeters Moline, 111. 30 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Whiting' Surfaces for Iiaying- Out Work the nature of the work, and then tumble For laying out work on structural Iron or for a few minutes in hot sawdust to castings a better way than chalking the dry it. J. L. Lucas. Bridgeport, surface is to mix whiting with benzine or Conn. gasoline to the consistency of paint, and To Produce a Mat Surface on Steel then paint it with a brush ; in a few min- To make a non-reflecting or surface utes the benzine or gasoline will evaporate, mat on small steel articles such as screws, small leaving a white surface ready to scribe lines steel stampings, etc., which at the same on. Albert D. Knaubl. time shall be perfectly rust-proof, proceed Moline, 111. as follows : Mix 2 ounces of powdered tai-- tar with 20 ounces of water. Put the arti- To Imitate Case-hardening* cles to be treated into this mixture in an Occasionally it becomes necessary to earthen pot, and boil until they become darken polished or ground parts to imitate yellow. Then place the articles in a tray case-hardening ; in order to accomplish this with a solution of sulphate of copper (blue result use this mixture : 1 part nitric acid vitriol) ; take out when copperized and put and 20 parts water. Immerse the article in a tray with sulphur-ammoniac. When to be treated about 20 seconds, then rinse black, take out and rinse off with water. with clear water. A splendid result can be After the rinsing has been done carefully, accomplished by following the above in- mix a quantity of clean, very dry, beech- structions. Harry Ash. wood sawdust with sufficient sweet oil, to Chicago, 111. render it slightly oily. Then thoroughly mix and rub in some powdered graphite, but Gold Tinning* Process for Use on Fin- only enough graphite should be added to ished Work in Iron, Brass or Steel give the whole a blackish appearance. To tin by cold process finished work in Throw into the sawdust the steel parts to iron, brass, or steel such as pins, tacks, be blackened, but not more at a time than wire goods, etc., put twenty pounds of about one-third of the quantity of the mix- stock well cleaned in sawdust, in a deep ture. Put the whole in a small coffee roast- pan (14x20x 3 inches is a good size) hav- er such as is used in private houses, and ing a false bottom of zinc. Heat to the after shaking well, roast the contents over boiling point a mixture of ^4 ounce of sul- a gentle flame, in constant motion, until the phuric acid and 2 ounces of tin crystals sawdust is burned to charcoal. The parts (stannous chloride) .and pour over the are then ready to be taken out and cooled. work. Let it stand ten minutes and then The roaster should be tightly closed during stir well, using a rake, and then let it re- the roasting operation. main ten minutes longer. Repeat the pro- It is not necessary to lacquer the parts cess and if two coats are not enough, give as the color put on in this manner will not it a third coat. The zinc bottom must be wear off by ordinary handling. The parts washed twice a day, as rusty or oily work will have a nice mat surface suitable for will not tin satisfactorily. articles used ijn photographic manufacture To polish the work, put in a wooden and art goods. The formula used was a tumbling barrel and pour in a water pail secret for many years and was successfully full of strong soap and water. Let it tum- used by the inventor. Max J. Oches. ble fifteen or twenty minutes, according to Cleveland, Ohio.

TREATING BRASS CASTINGS

Malleable Brass each quart of the acid mixture made up, stir until Brass which possesses malleability in a add one pint of common salt and solution be held In any high degree can be obtained by alloying 57 dissolved. The may suitable receptacle, say, of glazed earthen- parts of copper with 43 of zinc. is only necessary to provide a Pittsburg, Pa. U. Peters. ware. It vessel large enough for the immersion of the largest piece to be dipped. The pieces are simply dipped and removed at once, and To Fickle Brass Casting's then rinsed in clear water. This solution An excellent mixture to use for cleaning is intended only for cleaning and brighten- and brightening brass castings Is as fol- ing the castings, and not for imparting any T. E. O'DONNELL. lows : Two parts, by measure, of nitric color. acid, and three parts of sulphuric acid. To Urbana, 111. ;

COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE, ETC. 31

Flux for Brass Dusting" for Molds for Brass Work One ounce common soap, % ounce quick- To produce light castings of brass and lime, % ounce saltpeter. Mix into a ball gun-metal with a clean face and fine skin, and place in a crucible when lifted out of first dust the mold with pea meal and on the furnace. This is sufficient for about 50 top of same add a slight dust of plumbago pounds of metal. W. R. Bowers. for heavy eastings dust only with plum- Birmingham, Eng. bago. W. R. Bowers. Birmingham, Eng. To Clean Brass Casting's Brass work that has become dirty or corroded in service may be cleaned in the Cleaning' Solution for Brass following wash : 1/3 part nitric acid, 2/3 To make a cleaning solution for brass part sulphuric acid, and % pound common work mix 1% ounce nitric acid. 1 dram salt to each 10 gallons of solution. Dip saltpeter, 2 ounces rain water. Let the the castings in the solution for half a mixture stand a few hours and then the minute and then rinse in boiling water and articles to be cleaned may be dipped In dry in pine sawdust. E. W. Bowen. quickly and then rinsed off and dried. Denver, Col. R. M. K.

PRODUCING COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE, COPPER, ZINC AND TIN

Blacking' Brass To Copper Brass for Iiaying' Out Work

For blacking brass I find nothing superior To apply a copper coloring upon brass for to chloride of antimony. The articles laying out work, put a few drops of the should be thoroughly cleaned and polished, ordinary coppering solution upon the brass then immersed in the solution for a short and then dip a piece of iron or steel into the solution and touch the brass. time, and dried over a spirit lamp ; then brush with a black lead brush. Providence, R. I. Oscar J. Beale. Angelica, N. Y. F. H. Jackson. Frosting* Brass Work

Por Bluing' Small Brass Articles "by Boil the brass in caustic potash, rinse in Immersion clean water, and dip in nitric acid till all

oxide is removed ; then wash quickly, dry To blue small brass articles by immersion, in warm boxwood sawdust, and lacquer use chloride of antimony, 1 ounce ; water, while warm. This will give brass an orna- 20 ounces ; hydrochloric acid, 3 ounces. mental finish. F. H. Jackson. Place the solution in an earthen jar and Angelica, N. Y. suspend the piece in this bath until blue, then wash and dry in sawdust. The pieces should be warmed first. Tinning" Wash, for Brass Work To blue steel without heat, apply nitric To prepare a tinning wash for brass acid ; wipe off the acid clean, oil and work, use 6 pounds of white argil (potter's burnish. L. E. Muncy. clay), 4 gallons of soft water, and 8 pounds Syracuse, N. Y. tin shavings. Boil the brass work in this solution for 15 or 20 minutes. To Blacken Brasswork for Instruments Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers. To give a dull black surface to brasswork, paint it with a mixture made of a Black Bronze for Brass thimbleful of lampblack, to which is added aqua- 4 or 5 spots of gold size. Mix well with Dip the article, cleaned bright, in the acid off a knife on a flat slate until the whole is fortis (nitric acid) ; rinse about as thick as putty. Only put sufficient with clean water, and place it in the fol- gold size to make the lampblack stick to- lowing mixture until it turns black : Hy- gether, as too much will make a bright in- drochloric acid, 12 pounds ; sulphate of stead of a dull black. Add about twice the iron, 1 pound, and pure white arsenic, 1 volume of turpentine to the mixture, stir pound. It is then taken out, rinsed in clean well with a camel's hair brush, and apply water, dried in sawdust, polished with black to the brasswork. Jos. M. Stabel. lead and lacquered with green lacquer. Rochester, N. Y. Rochester, N. Y. Jos. M. Stabel. 32 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Silver WMte Bronze To Copper Brass for Iiaying- Out Work To prepare silver white bronzing powder, To apply a copper coating on brass for melt together one ounce each of bismuth laying out purposes, apply the ordinary and tin, adding one ounce of mercurj'. copper solution in the same manner as used When cool, pulverize into a fine powder. on iron or steel. Then, while the brass is Hoboken, N, J. R. P. Peruy. still wet with this solution, cover the entire surface with a thin layer of fine cast iron dust from the drill press. Brush off Mat Dip for Brass the cast iron dust, and the surface will have a nice copper coating, C. S. To make a mat dip for brass, mix 1 part sulphuric acid in 1 to 2 parts of nitric acid and 1 part sulphate of zinc. Let the mixture stand 24 hours, and use hot. More Bright Dip for Brass, Copper and or less nitric acid gives a fine or coarse Bronze effect, as may be preferred. A bright dip for brass, copper and bronze Bridgeport, Conn. J. L. Lucas. may be produced as follows : Make a solution of 100 parts by weight of nitric acid, 50 parts sulphuric acid, 1 part soot, and 1 To Produce a Gray Color on Brass part salt. The salt and soot make the dip

First clean off with alcohol, polish the work smoothly. The article should be surface to an even finish, making sure that dipped in this solution, well washed, and grease or finger marks are removed. Then dried in sawdust to prevent streaking. immerse in a solution of one ounce of ar- Bridgeport, Conn. S. H. Sweet. senic chloride to one pint of water until the desired color is obtained. Wash in clean, warm water, dry in boxwood saw- To Coat Zinc Sheet Black for Templet dust, warm, lacquer with a thin pale solu- Work tion of bleached shellac in methyl alcohol, A receipt which I have found very suc- using a broad camel's hair brush. cessful for coating zinc or tin sheets black Donald A. Hampson. for templet work, is the following, taken Middletown, N. Y. from Brown & Sharpe's book on gearing,

page 85 : "Dissolve 1 ounce of sulphate of copper Solution for Bluing* Brass (blue vitriol) in about 4. ounces of water, and add about one-half teaspoonful of nitric A suitable solution for bluing brass is acid. Apply a thin coating with a piece prepared by dissolving 1 ounce of antimony of waste." Alex. C. Labar. chloride in 20 ounces of water and adding Chattanooga, Tenn. 3 ounces of pure hydrochloric acid. Any amount of solution may be made up, provided the different ingredients are in the above proportion. To apply, place the Silver Solution for Blectro -plating* warmed brass article into the solution until Put together, into a glass, 1 ounce silver, it has turned blue. Then remove it and made thin, and cut into strips, 2 ounces wash with clean water, after which dry in best nitric acid, and % ounce clean rain- sawdust. T. E. O'Donnell. water. If the solution does not begin to Urbana, 111. act at once, add a little more water, and continue to add a very little at a time until it does. In the event that it starts off To Coat Brass or Copper with Tin well, but stops, before the silver is dis- To tin brass or copper melt 5 pounds of solved, it generally may be started up tin and pour same into a tank containing again by adding a little more water. When one ounce of cream of tartar in about 8 the solution is entirely effected, add one gallons of water. This must be done a quart of warm rain water and a largp drop at a time to subdivide the tin so as tablespoonful of table salt. Shake well and to give a larger surface for the cream of let settle ; then proceed to pour off and tartar to act upon, and have the bottom of wash through other waters. When no tank covered with tin. Then put a fire longer acid to the taste, put in 1% ounce under the tank and place parts to be cyanuret potassa and a quart pure rain tinned in the tank and let them boil for water. After standing about twenty-four about one hour, or until they are coated hours it will be ready for use. suflBciently. H. C. St. Louis, Mo. Samuel Strobel. COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE, ETC. 33

To Blacken Zinc for Iiaying- Out something which is just as good and more The lollowing receipt is often used for likely to be at hand, and that is a sheet of bright tin plate rubbed coating iron or steel, but it is not generally over with a piece of waste dipped in a sulphate of copper known among many of the craft that it solution. This is made of blue may be used to prepare zinc for sketching, water and stone with oil of vitriol added to the pro- giving the zinc a dark coating. . Dissolve 1 portion 1 of vitriol to 50 water. the ounce sulphate of copper in 4 ounces water, Rub tin thoroughly, keeping the waste wet with add ^2 teaspoonful of nitric acid and apply plenty of fresh solution and soon you will a thin coating to the zinc with a piece of see spots of brass, then of copper, then a waste. If used for iron or steel the work dark gray, nearly black, which wipe dry, shojld then be rubbed dry. Care should be and you will have an ideal surface to lay taken in handling and using the mixture, as out on. it rusts iron and steel badly if left on. The above is a kink which I have found K. M. very useful. F. W. Bach. Ilion, X. Y. Becoloring* Bronze Bronze may be renovated and recolored by mixing one part muriatic acid and two To Blacken Brass for Templet Work parts water, and applying the diluted acid and Other Purposes to the bronze articles with a cloth. Before The brass must be thoroughly cleaned, applying the acid the articles should be and then is heated slowly over a charcoal cleaned thoroughly from all grease. After fire, care being taken not to allow the brass having applied the acid let the article dry, to touch the charcoal, or indeed not to al- and then polish with sweet oil. low any sparks from the charcoal to come E. W. NORTOX. in contact with the brass, as it will cause red spots. As soon as the brass is slightly Acid Dip for Bronze Casting's red, dip it into nitric acid and reheat, just short of red. Rub strongly with a stiff A very .suitable and efCective acid dip bristle brush and clean with a greasy cloth. for bronze castings may be made up in the This gives a fairly permanent dead black following manner. The constituents re- finish. p. H. Oto. quired are : One gallon pale aqua fortis, 1 gallon oil vitriol, 4 quarts of water, and 8 ounces of rock salt. In mixing the acids Antique Brass Finish Shop Receipt add the vitriol to the aqua fortis, after It is comparatively easy to get a nice which the water should be introduced, by antique finish on copper or copper-plated ar- pouring it very slowly into the acid solu- ticles, but the treatment of brass is more tion. Water should never be poured into difficult. Most of the processes used do the acids separately. When the water and not give a nice, clear black, but instead, a acids have become thoroughly mixed, the dull or grayish black coating. At one time, salt may then be added. The solution be- when visiting the shop of the Puritan Mfg. comes quite warm after mixing, which is Co., Decatur, 111., I noted the beautiful jet a good time to add the salt, as the heated black of the brass articles made up with solution dissolves the salt readily. After the antique finish, and upon expressing my mixing, the solution should stand from 10 curiosity as to how it was obtained, was to 12 hours before using. It is best to offered the formula. The articles are first make a large quantity of the solution if dipped into a strong, hot solution of potash, much dipping is to be done. To secure the and then well rinsed in water ; they are then best results it is necessary that the solu- immersed in a mixture of one part sulphuric tion be kept at as low a temperature as and two parts nitric acid, and instantly possible, hence it is advisable to place the rinsed in clear, cold water. Next they are receptacle in a tank of cold water, or what placed in a bath consisting of two ounces is better, place it in running water. acetate of lead and one ounce hyposulphite Urbana. 111. T. E. O'Doxxeli.. of soda to each gallon of water in the tank. This solution must be almost boiling when used. The brass is moved around in this To Blacken Tin for Iiaying* Out until the desired black is obtained, then Very often in the shop and also in the rinsed and dried. When dry and cool spot drawing room we want to lay out some on a rag wheel. If brass doesn't turn black piece of work for trial on something which enough in above solution add just a little will show fine accurate marks, but cannot more lead. Ethan Viai.l. obtain a piece of sheet zinc. I have used Decatur, III. :

34 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

IiacQLuer for Brass zinc sulphate is not in the form of white I have found that the following process crystals, but is white and dry, then only makes a very good lacquer for the brass % ounce should be used. The double nickel parts of ane instruments, and that it re- salts are dissolved in the water, and then quires but little labor to prepare. Make the ammonium sulphocyanate is added. four alcoholic solutions in separate bottles After this has been done, the zinc sulphate is of each of the following gums : Unbleached introduced. The solution is used at Its shellac, dragon'-; blood, annatto, and gam- ordinary temperature, but in winter should boge, in the proportions of about one ounce not be allowed to get colder than 60 de- of the gum to a pint of alcohol. Keep grees F., and works best at about 80 de- these solutions about a week in a warm grees F. Ordinary nickel anodes are em- place, on a hot water or steam radiator, for ployed, with a surface several times that instance, shaking the bottles frequently. of the work to be plated. The work is It will be found that the alcohol will not cleaned carefully, preparatory to the plat- dissolve all of the gum, but that within ing. The black nickel deposit may be put half an hour after shaking, a precipitate directly on steel, brass, copper, German will settle on the bottom of the bottle, silver, or bronze, but it is preferable to perfectly leaving a transparent but highly first flash the work in a hot copper solu- colored liquid above, which deepens in color tion, then in a white nickel solution, and from day to day. Decant this off, and finally deposit the black nickel. For cheap filter through cloth, placing the liquids in work, the copper and white nickel deposits tightly corked bottles. word of caution A may be dispensed with, but the black nickel should be given in the case of shellac. is less apt to peel off if put on the white Most readers of Machinery are familiar nickel. The black nickel is deposited with with the yellow opaque shellac varnish of a weak current. Best results are obtained the pattern-maker. This is useless. But if with a current from % to % of a volt. the above proportions are used, and the so- The deposition should be allowed to lution kept warm, say 130 to 180 degrees stand for an hour or more if a heavy de- F., a light ficcculent precipitate will settle posit is desired. When the article comes out, leavifig a transparent wine-colored from the black nickel solution, it will be liquid above. It is this liquid which must found that it is of a gray or brown shade. be used. The four solutions should now be While this disappears ta a considerable ex- mixed. Equal parts of each give a rich tent when lacquered, the color is not a golden yellow. After mixing, the solutions dead black. By using a dip consisting of should be boiled down to about one-third of 1 gallon of water, 12 ounces of iron per- the volume, great care being used not to chloride, and 1 ounce of muriatic acid, a ignite the alcohol. Heat a piece of cast dead black color is produced. All nickel iron over a Bunsen burner, and as soon as deposits should be lacquered after dipping. this is hot, turn out the burner and place The following causes of difficulties should the solution on the iron and allow it to be guarded agamst : If the black nickel boil. When it ceases to boil, repeat the deposit has spear-shaped markings on it process. When cold this solution may be and is partly white, too high a voltage has applied with a brush to the brass in the been used. If the deposit flakes usual way, the brass having been polished off after standing for some time, too strong cur- with jewelers' fine emery paper, and slightly a rent has been used, or the work warmed. Though slightly harder to apply has not been clean. If the deposit is too heavy, than the commercial lacquers, it possesses it is also apt to flake off. If the none of the disagreeable odor of the banana deposit is still brown or gray after it comes from the oil which they contain. H. C. Lord. dip, the dip Columbus, Ohio. is old, or the article has not remained in the dip long enough. If, although the voltage is right (less than one volt), the deposit Froduciug* Black Nickel Coating's on is streaked, the bath has become Metal Surfaces acid ; add carbonate of nickel (plastic) to neutralize the acid. Use plenty The following solution for depositing a of anode surface and old nickel anodes if black nickel coating on metal surfaces is possible. If the edges of the deposit are given by the Brass World. The solution removed in the dip, the dip is too hot, or consists of the following constituents the black nickel was not deposited a suffi- water, 1 gallon ; double nickel salts, 8 ciently long time. If the surface is iri- ounces ; ammonium sulphocyanate 2 descent after lacquermg, the lacquer is too ounces ; zinc sulphate, 1 ounce. If the thin. :

COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE, ETC. 35

A Gun-metal Finish Silver Paste for Brass To make an imitation gun-metal finish This paste is used for silvering the scales by electrical process take % pound of the on thermometers and the dials for clocks, double nickel salts to a gallon, and dis- aneroid barometers, steam gages, etc. solve in boiling water. After the solution Put in an ordinary tea cup or other suit- has cooled, add ammonia until it is slightly able vessel, 1 ounce of silver—coin silver alkalized, then add sulphuiet cyanide of will do, but pure silver is better and potassium, about i/^ ounce to a gallon. cheaper. Fill the cup half full of nitric If a darker finish is required add more acid, and place it in a vessel containing sulphuret. This will work excellently on water, which must be heated. As the acid all metals and they will come from the heats, it throws off fumes in shape of a solution with a very high luster. If the brown smoke, very poisonous. When the work has been buffed and dipped before smoke ceases to appear, add a teaspoonful plating, it will require no further finishing, of common table salt, and when the fumes and should then be lacquered. It should caused by this cease, take the cup from the be run with a very mild current from three heat immediately and fill slowly to the top to four minutes. J. L. Lucas. with cold water. Allow the white powder Bridgeport, Conn. that will now be found in the cup to settle to the bottom and then slowly decant the liquid. When almost empty, fill again with To Bronze Vellow Brass cold water, and decant again, repeating this process at least half a dozen times. To produce a bronze finish on rough yel- Mix the powder (commercial chloride of low brass castings, _mix equal parts of nitric silver will do instead) with 10 pounds table salt, acid, sulphuric acid and water ; the nitric and pound cream of tartar. Mix thor- acid and water should be mixed first and % oughly dry, then add enough cold the sulphuric acid added slowly. Dip the water to make a paste. Add the water slowly yellow brass castings into boiling water a so as not to get in too much. Keep in a covered moment, then in the acid solution, then vessel and from the light. quickly back into the boiling water, and The graduation marks, rinse thoroughly in clean water. Dry in figures, and letters, stamped or cut into the pine sawdust. The castings must be per- work may be filled with ordinary roofing tar, fectly free from soldering solutions, etc., or which is applied by heating the work stains are liable to appear. This method enough to melt the tar. Most of the surplus tar gives a finish similar to gas fixtures, etc., may be scraped off with the edge of a card, and may be rendered very permanent by or any cardboard handy. This filling coating with a transparent lacquer. stands better than sealing wax, and will not dissolve I. W. Antano. and blur when lacquered if the lacquer is put on properly. Another filling is japan, To Plate Porous Work which is applied with a brush cold, and In the platuig of brass or cast iron, or cleaned with a card as before. It is then other porous metals, there is more or less baked, and when the work is finished, the trouble with what is called "spotting out" filling will be found to be glossy and per- which is caused by the cyanide getting into manent and will not be dissolved by any the pores, and it has been hard to find a lacquer or heat. satisfactory remedy for this trouble. The The piece to be silvered should be thor- following can be used with good results oughly cleaned with emery cloth or paper First, give the work a good stifE coat of just before applying the paste, which is to nickel, then put it through a brass solu- be put on by hand and rubbed well in the tion without bviffing. After the required surface of the work. After this is done, deposit has been obtained, rinse it in cold the work should have a dirty, silvery yellow water, and then hang in boiling water, as tinge, which will be brightened by rubbing long as possible without tarnishing. Then with a dry mixture of % pound cream of hang it in a good hot oven until thoroughly tartar and 10 pounds salt well mixed. The dried out, after which buff and hang for a work should be thoroughly washed to clear few moments in gasoline, and put it in the it of the surplus salt and then dried in saw- oven again. You will find this will cure dust and lacquered. I have used this meth- a great deal of the trouble experienced on od for silvering over 30,000 steam gage and that class of work. This is a valuable clock dials, and many other dials and process and one never before printed. scales ; hence I know it is all right. Bridgeport, Conn. J. L. Lucas. Brooklyn, N. Y. J. S. Gordon. ;

36 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

To Blacken Brass the approximate proportion of 10 parts of

Should it be desired to change the color ammonia and one part of copper carbonate of an article made of brass to a dark by weight. Shake the mixture well until bronze or black, the following compound the copper carbonate is dissolved, adding will be found to give good results, espe- the copper carbonate to the ammonia little cially if the metal has a polished surface. by little until the ammonia will not dis-

P'irst make up a solution of 120 grains of solve any more ; then add a volume of clear nitrate of silver and 5 ounces of water water equal to about one-fourth of the then dissolve 120 grains of copper nitrate mixture. The brass to be colored should in 5 ounces of water. Mix the two solu- be polished bright, either with fine dry tions together in equal parts, making a emery cloth, taking care not to touch the quantity sufficient to immerse the articles. polished surface with the fingers, or made Clean the brass articles to be blackened clean and bright by dipping in a strong thoroughly in hot soda water, and then dip solution of caustic soda. Before dipping in the above compoimd. Remove and heat agitate the compound thoroughly and then in an oven until the proper shade of color immerse the pieces of brass, keeping them appears. T. E. O'Donnell. in motion two or three minutes, rinse off Urban a, 111. in clean water, and dry in sawdust or clean cotton waste. When not in use the solution should be kept in a tightly-corked bot- For Coloring* Brass Blue Black tle. I have used it on instrument work To color brass blue black make a solu- very successfully. H. M. Weber. tion of ammonia and copper carbonate in Cambridge, Mass.

RUST REMOVERS AND PREVENTATIVES

To Prevent Exposed Iron Rusting* will have an appearance almost of silver, but will take the To prevent iron, which is exposed to natural color by rubbing moisture, from rusting, paint over with a them. J. M. Menegus. coat of Portland liquid cement. This is Los Angeles, Cal. very satisfactory for posts which are set in the ground. James A. Pratt. To Keep Machinery from Busting

Howard, R. I. A formula for an anti-rust compound is

made as follows : Dissolve 1 ounce of camphor in To Prevent Screws from Getting 1 pound of melted lard ; take off Busty the scum, and mix in as much fine black lead as will give it color. Clean the To prevent screws from getting rusty machinery, and smear it with the mixture, and sticking tight, instead of using ordi- and after 24 hours rub clean with soft nary oil only, add some graphite. After linen cloth. The machinery will keep clean, will be able to unscrew them years you under ordinary circumstances, for a long as bright as new, with ease, and find them time. James A. Pratt. if they were exposed to very damp even Howard, R. I. air. J. M. Menegus. Los Angeles, Cal. To Bemove Bust from Small Steel Farts Rust may be removed from small steel Bust-preventing Mixture parts such as screws, nuts, pins, etc., when they are not badly pitted, by dipping them Melt 4 ounces of rosin in 1 quart of into a dilute solution of sulphuric acid. linseed oil and mix with 2 gallons of kero- To prepare the acid bath, pour the acid sene oil. The mixture is readily applied little by little into a bowl partly filled with a cloth or brush, and can be easily with water. After each addition of acid, removed. M. E. Canek. try one of the rusted parts, and continue trying until the proper strength is obtained To Clean Busty Pieces of Steel to eat the rust off clean. Better results Put the pieces in a solution of chlorate will be obtained in this manner than by of tin, not too strong, or it will attack the working to a set formula. Let the parts metal, and let them stay there about 24 remain in the acid bath until cleaned of hours or less. Take the pieces from the rust, then remove and wash in soda water, bath, wash them in water, then in am- and then in benzine. Finally dry the parts monia, and then dry them quickly. Thoy and brighten in sawdust. S. W. Green. SOLDERS AND SOLDERING ACIDS 37

Preservative Oil tergreen, cinnamon, or sassafras. When To make a preservative oil use high test thoroughly mixed pour into a tin can—an grain alcohol and best grade of sperm oil, old baking powder can will do. Keep a rag equal parts. Keep in a tightly-corked saturated with the preventative to wipe bottle, and shake well before using as the tools that are liable to rust. Y. F. alcohol and oil separate after standing. Angelica, N. H. J.\cksox. Any moisture on a tool or gun at the time of application is quickly absorbed by the alcohol which in a short time evaporates, To Bemove Bust from Polished Steel leaving good coat of oil a sperm to protect It quite frequently happens that parts of the surfaco from rust. E. W. Norton. machinery having polished surfaces become rusty. This rust is difficult to remove without scratching the highly polished sur- Bemoving- Bust from Steel face. A very effective mixture for remov- A good method for removing rust from ing rust from such surfaces without injury steel is to first rub the object with sweet may be made as follows : Ten parts of oil, and then after a day or two, rub it tin putty, 8 parts of prepared buckshorn, with finely powdered unslaked lime until and 250 parts of spirits of wine. These the rust disappears. Then give it again a ingredients are mixed to a soft paste, and coating of oil with a woolen cloth, and put rubbed in on the surface until the rust dis- it in a dry place. E. W. Norton. appears. When no trace of rust seems to remain, the surface is polished with a dry, T. E. O'DONNELL. Bust Preventative soft cloth. Urbana, 111. To make a mixture that will prevent hardware and machinists' tools from rusting, take one-half pint of Demar white var- To Clean Busted Steel—To Preserve nish, and mix it well with one gallon of Steel from Bust turpentine, use as a wash. When the pol- Rusted steel can be cleaned by brushing ished surfaces are thoroughly covered with with a paste compound of % ounce of a thin coat of the varnish it will show cyanide potassium, % ounce castile soap, 1 scarcely any, but will preserve the polish ounce whiting, and water sufficient to form for years, if it is not scraped off with some- a paste. The steel should be washed with thing very hard. H. E. Wood, a solution of 1/2 ounce cyanide potassium Pearl River, N. Y. in 2 ounces water. To preserve steel from rust dissolve 1 part caoutchoue and 16 parts turpentine Bust Preventative for Tools with a gentle heat, then add 8 parts boiled The following I have used for a number oil, and mix by bringing them to the heat of years, and found it O. K. in every re- of boiling water. Apply to the steel with spect. Take a pound of vaseline and melt a brush, the same as varnish. It can be with it 2 ounces of blue ointment—what removed again with a cloth soaked in tur- druggists call one-third—and add, to give it pentine. A. L. MONRAD. a pleasant odor, a few drops of oil of win- New Haven, Conn.

SOLDERS AND SOLDERING ACIDS

Cheap Plowing- Solder Aluminum Solder

A cheap soft solder which is good for The following is a receipt for aluminum purposes where not much pressure is car- solder which we are using w'ith success in ried, is made by adding to each pound of the Elwell-Parker Electric Co.'s shop, Cleve- lead, while melting, one teaspoonful of land, Ohio. It is the result of experiments

common salt. C. L. Scoville. made by several of our foremen : Pig tin,

Ashtabula. Ohio. 12 ounces ; sheet zinc, 3 ounces ; mercury, 1 ounce. Melt the zinc first and then add the tin. When the tin is melted remove Soldering- Kink from the fire and add the mercury while When soldering, and no acid is handy, a still in the molten state. Be careful to common tallow candle will answer the pur- stir the mixture thoroughly before pouring pose. John B. Sperry. into the mold. Use stearic acid for a flux. Aurora, 111. Cleveland, Ohio. L. Miller. ; ;

SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS Soldering- Galvanized Iron Soldering Alloys For soldering galvanized iron without I have used the following soldering al- scraping use raw muriatic acid. loys and can recommend them : Philadelphia, Pa. Wm. Davis. For copper with copper : Copper, 55

zinc, 40 ; tin, 5.

For copper with iron : Copper, 80 Soldering- Solution for Steel that will zinc, 16 ; tin, 4. not Rust the Work For brass : Copper, 45 ; zinc, 50 ; tin, 5. A soldering solution for steel that will For lead : Lead, 67 ; tin, 33. not rust or blacken the work is made of Los Angeles, Cal. .T. M. Menegus. 6 ounces alcohol, 2 ounces glycerine and 1 ounce oxide of zinc. A. L. Monrad. New Haven, Conn. Soldering Paste for Copper Wires Soldering paste has come into extensive use in electrical work as a flux for solder- Non-rusting Soldering Solution ing, and the following receipt will be found A good anti-rust solution for soldering useful in soldering copper wnres when the metals where acids must not be used, is use of an acid would be objectionable. This made by dissolving rosin in acetone, mak- paste will not spatter or corrode, and the ing a solution about as thick as molasses proportions are as follows : Saturate solu- it is applied in the usual manner. tion chloride of zinc, 1 dram; vaseline, 1% Birmingham, Bng. W. R. Bowers. ounce. William Davis. Philadelphia, Pa.

Non-rusting Soldering riuid Solder for Small Farts To prepare a soldering acid that will not rust iron, add to a saturated solution of To make a solder for small metal articles zinc and hydrochloric acid % part am- cut tinfoil into the shape wanted and wet monia, and dilute the whole with an equal on both sides with sal-ammoniac. Have quantity of water. This has been very the surface of the piece clean, place on it successfully used on knitting machines in the wet tinfoil and then press the parts to- soldering needles to their holders where gether firmly and heat until the tinfoil Is an acid with the above characteristics Is melted. E. W. Norton. essential. j^ H. V.

Aluminum. Solder Non-rusting Soldering Fluid To make a solder for soldering alum- To make a non-rusting soldering fluid, inum, melt together 1 pound block tin, 4 dissolve small pieces of zinc in hydrochloric ounces spelter, 2 ounces pure lead and acid till effervescence ceases. After stand- 3 pounds phosphor tin. When using, clean ing a day, take out the undissolved zinc, the work with benzine and apply with a and filter the solution. Then mix with one- heated copper bit in the usual manner. third its volume of C. P. ammonia 26 de- Lynn, Mass. L. C. Carr. grees, Beaume, and dilute with water to suit the work to be soldered. This flux does first-class service and does not rust Electricians^ Method of Soldering* the work. F. E. Whittlesey. A method of soldering that I noticed elec- Corry, Pa. tricians using in soldering wire is as fol-

lows : The solder is melted in a pot and Soldering- Aluminum and Copper then poured over the joints to be soldered, by means of a small dip ladle. Then acid, It is often stated that aluminum cannot paste or stick flux is applied, and the solder be readily and successfully soldered to again applied. This makes a good joint. other metals. I have, on numerous occa- The solder which drops from the joint is sions, successfully and easily soldered alum- caught by a second ladle, or in the solder inum to both copper and brass by the fol- pot. In some cases, when possible, the piece lowing method : First tin the aluminum is dipped in the pot, the flux applied and and the copper, or brass, using stearine as the work again dipped. It is important in a flux ; wipe off clean, then use zinc chloride both cases to give the piece a sharp tap as flux ; wipe solder composed of : tin 67 after the second application, to knock off per cent., lead 33 per cent. T.Iles. any surplus solder. Herman Joxsox. Manchester, England. New York City. SOLDERS AND SOLDERING ACIDS 39

Solder for Gold Cold Solder To make a solder for gold melt together For flux use 1 part metallic sodium to in a charcoal fire 24 grains gold, 9 grains 50 or 00 parts of mercury. These combine pure silver, 6 grains copper, 3 grains good if well shaken in a bottle. For solder use brass ; this makes a solder for gold ranging a weak solution of copper sulphate, about 1 from 12 to 16 carats fine. For finer gold ounce sulphate to 1 quart of water ; pre- increase the proportions of gold in the com- cipitate the copper by rods of zinc, wash position. To make it darker in color lessen the precipitate two or *hree times with hot the proportion of silver and increase that water, drain off the water and add 6 or 7 of copper. Joseph M. Stabel. ounces of mercury for every 3 ounces of- Rochester, N, Y. precipitate. A trifle of sulphuric acid will assist in the combining of the matter. The combination will form a paste which sets Solder Preparation for Aluminum very hard in a few hours. A. L. Monrad. The most successful solder preparation New Haven, Conn. for soldering aluminum yet secured is made up in the following manner : Melt together 64 parts, by weight, of tin, 30 parts of zinc, 1 part of lead, and a small amount of Soldering" Acid and Solders rosin. All parts, of course, must be mixed together very thoroughly while in molten I have seen a number of different for- condition. When thoroughly mixed the mulas for soldering acids and have had alloy should be run out in bars of desired occasion to try several of them with more sizes. Clean the surfaces thoroughly and or less satisfaction. Among all the differ- apply the solder. No chemical is required, ent ones which I have tried, I know of the rosin used being sufficient to cause ad- but one, however, that actually can be said hesion, although it is advisable to heat the to fill all requirements. parts to be soldered gently to assist in The acid is composed of : Solution chloride zinc, 1 ounce glycerine, 1 ounce, alcohol, making a good adhesion. ; Olney, 111. T. E. O'Donnell. 7 ounces. As far as the solder itself is concerned, one can, of course, make compositions of Soldering* Without Heat tin and lead in almost any proportions to fill the requirements in general. The melt- Take 1 ounce of ammoniac and 1 ounce ing point of these different compositions will of common salt, an equal quantity of cal- vary greatly, however, according to the cined tartar, and 3 ounces of antimony. proportions of above metals in same, and, Pound this well together and sift. Put of course, this is an important factor in this in a piece of linen, and enclose it well many instances, especially when wanting to around with fullers' earth about an inch solder metals which have a low melting thick, let it dry, then put it in one crucible, temperature, in which case the solder ought covered by another crucible over a slow to be a composition which itself will melt fire to get hot by slow degrees. Keep up at a very low temperature. If bismuth is the fire until the content of the crucible added to the composition the melting tem- gets red-hot melts. let it cool and Then perature will almost invariably be lowered. gradually, and when cold pound the mix- I have on hand a fairly complete table of ture. wish solder When you to anything compositions for solder, giving their respec- the pieces put two you want to join to- tive melting temperatures and the metals gether on a table close to one another. for which they are best adapted : Make a crust of fullers' earth, so that, Melting passing under the joint and holding to each temp. piece it shall be open at the top. Then Tin. Lead. Bismuth. Deg. Fahr. throw some of the powder between and over 15..5 32.0 52.5 205 the joint. Dissolve some borax in some 20.0 26.0 54.0 214 hot wine, and with a feather dip in the 20.6 26.8 52.6 217 21.4 27.8 50.8 225 solution and rub the powder at the place 24.8 22.1 53.1 237 of the joint. It will immediately boil up. 20'.0 20.0 60.0 250 As soon as the boiling stops the consolida- 15.0 25.0 60.0 257 63.2 36. S 361 tion is made. The calcined tartar is made 60.0 40.0 372 by placing crude tartar in a covered cruci- 70.0 30.0 381 ble and raising it to a low red heat. Allow 50.0 50.0 415 34.0 66.0 446 it to cool gradually. Joseph M. Stabel. 30.0 70.0 495 Rochester, N. Y. A : :

40 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Improved Soldering* Acid Suitable for 3 4-karat work: Fine gold, 1 ounce, fine A very satisfactory soldering acid may silver, 300 grains ; copper be made by the use of the ordinary solder- wire, 300 grains. ing acid for the base and introducing a Hardest silver solder : Fine silver, 1 certain proportion of chloride of tin and ounce; shot copper. 120 grains. sal-ammoniac. This gives an acid which is Best hard silver solder : Fine silver, 1

ounce ; spelter, far superior to the old form. To make shot copper, 105 grains ; 15 one gallon of this soldering fluid, take grains. three quarts of common muriatic acid and Medium silver solder : Fine silver, 360

grains ; shot copper, 96 grains ; spelter, 24 dissolve as much zinc as possible in it. grains. This, as is well known, is the common Easy silver solder : Fine silver, 336 form of acid used in soldering. Next dis-

grains ; shot copper, 108 grains ; spelter, 36 solve 6 ounces of sal-ammoniac in a pint grains. H. D. Schattle. of warm water. In another pint dissolve Syracuse, N. Y. 4 ounces of chloride of tin. The three solutions should then be mixed together. After mixing, the solution may appear cloudy, and can be cleared up by a few Soldering Paste drops of muriatic acid, care being taken Bj'^ the requirements of the electrical not to add too much. The acid is used in trade, in certain cases no acid soldering the same manner as any ordinary solder- flux can be used. A flux that can be used ing fluid. It will be found that it will not on any kind of work is known as a solder- spatter when the hot iron is applied, and ing paste. For soldering copper wires and also that a cheaper grade of solder may other electrical conductors the paste is un- be used with it, if necessary. equaled, and is particularly adapted for Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell. work in which spattering and corrosion are objectionable. The mixture for soldering paste consists of certain proportions of grease and chloride of zinc. The grease To Solder Aluminum commonly used is petrolatum or vaseline, The great disadvantage of aluminum to which will give the paste the proper con- the sheet metal worker is the diflBculty en- sistency. The proportions used are pe- countered in soldering. This is caused by trolatum or vaseline, 1 pound, and 1 fluid the formation of an oxide on the surface ounce saturated solution chloride of zinc. of the heated metal, the oxide preventing Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell. the solder from alloying with the aluminum. This difficulty can be surmounted by em- ploying the following method Make a solder of 80 per cent tin and Non-corrosive Soldering- Fluid 20 per cent zinc, and use stearic acid An economical non-corrosive soldering as a flux. Tin the surface with the above, fluid is the following : Put any quantity moving the copper bit backward and for- of chloride of zinc in a bottle, fill it up ward over the metal and flowing the solder. with alcohol, and allow it to stand at least The film of oxide can then cleaned off, be 48 hours, then carefully pour off the alco- and the coated surface be easily sol- can hol, mix it w^ith an equal quantity of glycer dered with the above-named solder or ine and shake. The zinc remaining in the ordinary tinsmiths' solder. A. Eyles. bottle can be used until there is nothing Manchester, Eng. left of it, since the alcohol which is poured off after 48 hours contains all the chloride of zinc which is necessary for good soldering. York. Herman Jonson. Crold Solders New Gold solder suitable for 18-karat work

Gold, fine, 1 ounce ; silver, fine, 144 grains ; copper wire, 96 grains. (Troy weight.) Silver Solder for Brazing Suitable for 16-karat work : Fine gold, difficulty arises in the use of braz- 1 ounce ; fine silver, 144 grains ; copper Much wire, 168 grains. ing solder. The best alloy to use in braz- solder. It has Suitable for 15-karat work : Fine gold, ing is the common silver

1 oxince ; fine silver, 240 grains ; copper the advantages of a low melting point and wire, 240 grains. toughness, which are not found to such a ALLOYS AND LUBRICANTS 41

high degree in common brazing brasses solder consists of two parts fine silver composed of copper and zinc. The melting filings and one part fine brass, which lat- point of silver being lower than that of ter consists of 2 parts copper and 1 part copper, and as it does not oxidize when zinc. T. E. O'DONNELL. heated, it Is admirably adapted for use In Urbana, 111. brazing solder. The proper mixture for the

MISCELLANEOUS ALLOYS

Alloy for Caliper and Gagfe Rod Anti-friction Metal Casting's An anti-friction metal of most excellent A mixture of 30 parts zinc to 70 parts quality and one that I have used with suc- aluminum gives a light and durable alloy cess for a bearing on an internal grinding for gage rods and caliper legs. The gage shaft, which was 5-16 inch diameter, 7 rods must be steel tipped for the alloy is inches long, and 5 inches in the bearing, soft and wears away too rapidly for gage and run at a speed of 36,000 R. P. M. is

points. James A. Pratt. made as follows : 17 parts zinc, 1 part Howard, R. I. 1 copper, 1/^ part antimony ; prepared in the

following way : ISIelt the copper in a small crucible, then add the antimony and lastly the zinc, care being taken not to burn the Alloy for Pattern Zietters and Figfures zinc. Burning can be prevented by allowing A good alloy for casting pattern letters the copper and antimony to cool slightly and figures and similar small parts in before adding the zinc. This metal is pre- brass, iron or plaster molds is made of ferably cast into the shape desired and Is lead, 80 parts, and antimony, 20 parts. A not used as a lining metal because it re-

better alloy would be lead, 70 parts ; anti- quires too great a heat to pour. It ma- mony and bismuth, each 15 parts. To in- chines nicely and takes a fine polish on sure perfect work the molds should be bearing surfaces. It has the appearance of quite hot by placing them over a Bunsen aluminum when finished. Use a lubricating burner. The writer has had thousands of oil made from any good grade of machine pattern letters and figures made in this oil to which 3 parts of kerosene have been manner. Oscar E. Perrigo. added. Herrmann G. Kroeger. Neponset, Mass. Louisville, Ky.

LUBRICANTS FOR BEARINGS, ETC.

Iiubricant for Iiathe Centers Fill the holes with a compound prepared as

An excellent lubricant for lathe centers follows : Melt 1 pound solid paraflSine and litharge, isinglass is made by using 1 part graphite and 4 add 2 ounces of dissolved parts tallow thoroughly mixed. and sulphur ; add further 2 pounds of fine Rock Falls, 111. E. C. Noble. plumbago and mix thoroughly, Toronto, Can. J. H. Holdsworth.

Preparing* Fine Oil for Delicate Machinery Iiubricant for Hig'h-speed Bearings Put small zinc and lead shavings in equal To prevent heating sticking beai'- quantities into best olive oil, and place the and of ings on heavy machine tools to oil in a cool place until it becomes color- due running continuously at high speeds, fill oil less. This oil is the best obtainable for an can with fine mechanisms. O. G. a good spring bottom (the "Gem" oiler preferred) about one-eighth full of Dixon's flake graphite, and the remainder with Self-lubricating' Bearings kerosene oil. As soon as the bearing shows In hard gun-metal bushes, bore a good the slightest indication of heating or stick- fit to shaft and split, drill four holes per ing, this mixture should be forcibly squirted i/4 square inch of surface, each inch diam- through the oil hole until it flows out be- eter by % inch deep. The holes are to be tween the shaft and bearing, when a small flat at the bottom and to be spaced zigzag, quantity of thin machine oil may be ap- so that one row of holes is between the plied. H. J. Bachmann.

• • holes in the opposite side, thus : . . . New York. ;

42 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS lubricating' Oil for Heavy Duty and wood 1 part of graphite, 2 parts of bees- Fast Running* Journals wax and % to 1 part of tallow will form An excellent lubricating oil for heavy a very good and lasting grease for same. duty and fast running journals may be Cleveland, O. Max J. Oches. made by mixing equal parts of sperm oil, cylinder oil and "black strap" or common Lubricant for the V's of Larg-e Planers machine oil. A. D. Knauel. When very heavy is Moline, III. work to be done on a planer it may happen that the oil or other lubricant used on the ways of the Cooling- Compound for Necks of Rolls planer does not possess suflficient "body" and Shafts to resist the pressure, and the wearing Dissolve 2^4 pounds of lead acetate in surface will be cut or badly "roughed up." 14 pounds hot tallow and add 2% pounds The writer had a case wherein the planer black antimony. Stir the ingredients con- table weighed eleven tons and the load to stantly until cold. W. R. Bowers. be put upon it thirteen tons, making Birmingham, England. twenty-four tons in all. The bearing surfaces of the V's appeared very narrow to sucessfully support such a weight. To Oil for Use on Micrometer Screws avoid cutting, the surfaces were lubricated To prepare oil for micrometers, fine with a mixture of one gallon of "Vacuum" mechanisms, etc., take neatsfoot oil and put cylinder oil and one pound of Dixon's flake into it some lead shavings in order to neu- graphite. The planing job was easily and tralize the acid contained in the oil ; let successfully done with no injury to the this stand for a considerable time, the wearing surfaces. Oscar E. Perrigo. longer the better. Oil thus prepared never Neponset, Mass. corrodes or thickens. Joseph M. Stabel. Rochester, N. Y. White Lead and Tallow of Even Con- sistency at All Temperatures Lubricant for Lathe Centers In order to keep white lead and tallow soft in alike, so that I have tried many different kinds of winter and summer it can be applied with a brush to finished lubricants for lathe centers and as yet I have found nothing equal to white lead parts of machinery before shipping them, mixed with sperm oil, with enough graph- and for use in fitting keys, etc.. prepare a ite added to give it a dark lead color. It mixture composed of five pounds of white can be mixed and lead and fifteen pounds of tallow. Heat kept in small tin boxes ; add oil when necessary to keep it from this in a suitable receptacle, and stir until getting too thick. S. C. S. the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Then remove the mixture to a cool place, and add two quarts of linseed oil, con- A Grease for Gear Wheels tinuing to stir the composition until it A good grease for gear wheels where iron becomes cold, as otherwise the white lead meshes into iron can be made of 1 part of will settle at the bottom. This mixture graphite, and 4 parts of tallow mixed with will always remain of the same consistency some oil. For steel gears meshing into at all temperatures. R. S. F.

LUBRICANTS FOR MACHINING OR ^WORKING METALS

Tapping- Holes in Cast Iron To Turn Aluminum Kerosene oil used as a lubricant for tap- To produce a smooth surface when turn- ping holes in cast iron is the best lubri- ing aluminum use kerosene oil for a lubricant known to the writer. Wm. Davis. cant. If turning in a turret lathe pro- Philadelphia, Pa. vided with an oil pump, mix the kerosene oil with lard oil, 1 part of lard oil to 3 parts of kerosene, as kerosene itself is too To Turn Very Hard Iron and Steel thin to be fed through the ordinary oil Use a drip can for the tool with the pump without being mixed with a more following solution : petroleum, 2 gallons heavy flowing fluid. Kerosene oil is also turpentine, 1 gallon, and 2 ounces of cam- the best lubricant for use in boring, thread- phoi'. ,T. H. HOLDSWORTH. ing and reaming aluminum. Toronto, Canada. East Hartford, Conn. John C. Monrad. LUBRICANTS 43

To Drill Hard Steel Ziubricating* Mixture for Cutting* Tools To drill hardened steel make an old-fash- The proportion of ingredients of a lubri- ioned flat drill and temper as hard as it cating mixture for cutting tools is 6 gal- will stand. Use camphor and turpentine lons of water, 3% pounds of soft soap, in place of oil. I have drilled steel in this and % gallon of clean refuse oil. Heat the manner which I could not drill in any water and mix with the soap, preferably other way. G. E. Hetzler. in a mechanical mixer ; afterward add Dayton, O. the oil. A cast iron circular tank to hold 12 gallons, fitted with a tap at the bottom and having three revolving arms fitted to a vertical shaft driven by bevels and a fast, A ZiUbricant for Cutting* Threads loose pulley, answers all that is required After trying various kinds of lubricants for a mixer. This should be kept running in cutting threads on tool steel, machine all through the working day. steel, etc., I found that common lard (not Manchester. Eng. H. T. Millar. lard oil) mixed with about one-third turpentine gave the best results. The mixture may be applied with a small brush. Ziuhricant for Turning Copper Paterson, N. J. Stephex Codrter. A solution of sal-soda mixed with lard oil is a lubricant I have seen used on copper in turret lathe work with good results. ^ S. H. Sweet. Drilling* Compound Bridgeport, Conn. A good drilling compound is made by adding 1 pound common soda to 4 quarts water, and 1 pint machine oil. Let stand Solution for Drilling* Hard Steel for about one hour and it will be ready for use. This will not rust the machines and A mixture which will permit hard steel is clean to work with. or iron to be drilled with ordinary drills Winnetka, 111. Frank Pavlik, Jr. is made by using 1 part spirits of camphor and 4 parts turpentine. Mix well and apply cold, letting it remain a few minutes before applying the drill. Run the drill Ziiibricant for Cutting" Aluminum slowly with fine feed. C. E. Mink. Syracuse, N. Y. A good lubricant for cutting aluminum in the lathe is kerosene oil. It will permit a better finish, and will materially Iiuhricant for Turning* Copper reduce the liability of tearing the surface by the cutting tool. Sregor. Gasoline is an excellent lubricant. In our shop w6 have used it as a lubricant for cutting copper with very good results. Rockford, 111. George C. Nasii. liUtricant for Aluminum Cutting* The following mixture makes the best Ziubricant for Pipe Screw Threads lubricant for turning, or any other machin- The best "dope," so-called in shop pnr- ing operation on aluminum, that I have lance, that I have ever seen used for mak- ever tried : Mix 1 part good lard oil with ing pipe connections, is composed of 1 pint 4 parts of kerosene oil. of "black strap" oil, A. A. Stevexson. machine 14 Pint graphite, % pint of white lead, and a teaspoonful of flour emery. These proportions are not exact, but they are substantially what are used. The object of the flour Iiubricant for Fitting* Aluminum emery is to polish the threads as they art- Threads being screwed together. The graphite, When screwing an aluminum article on- white lead and oil make a fine lubricating to an iron or steel part, much trouble is mixture, which has enough consistency to often experienced by the breaking and tear- stop incipient leaks. I have seen many ing of the threads of the softer metal. large pipe radiators made up using this This can be pi-evented by lubricating the mixture, and they never leaked a drop when screw well with a mixture of oil and the steam was turned on. M. E. Canek. graphite. Sregor. Altay, N. Y. 44 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Lubricants for Use in Cutting- Bolts Lubricating- Soap for "Wire Drawing-, and Tapping- Nuts Screw Cutting- and Working- Metals Mineral oils should never be used in Put 20 pounds of pure caustic potash thread cutting and tapping, as they do not into an iron or earthen vessel with 2 gal- generally flow freely enough. An excellent lons of water. The potash will dissolve solution for this purpose can be prepared very quickly by heating the water. Heat by dissolving 1% pound of sal-soda in 3 9% gallons of oil to about 140 degrees F., gallons of warm water, then adding 1 gal- which is most easily done by bringing a lon of pure lard oil. This is known as a small portion of the oil to the boiling point soda solution. Pure lard oil is the best and adding this to the remainder. Pour the for fine, true work. T. E. O'Donnell. caustic potash lye into the oil in a small Urbana, 111. stream, stirring steadily with a wooden paddle until the oil and lye appear well combined and smooth, which will take only a Turning- Copper few minutes. Put the mixture in a warm place, covering the vessel well with blankets Those who have had to turn copper in or woolen rugs to keep the heat caused the lathe have generally wished they had by the mixture combining and turning into let someone else do the work, and that they soap. This wrapping is very important, the could stand by and jeer when it was being object being to keep the temperature uni- performed, or else criticise it after it was from until saponification is completed. The done. Soap and water do not help ; tur- mixing may be done in a wooden vessel, pentine is a delusion and a snare ; but half an oil barrel answering very well. milk does the trick "with neatness and dis- After three or four days the soap is formed patch." Robert Grimshaw. and may be used, though it is better, in Hanover, Germany. order to insure perfect saponification of all the oil, to stir it up well again and leave standing, still well covered, for a few days Lubricating- Mixture for Cutting- Thread longer. In this way the finest possible soap in Tool Steel for lubricating purposes is made. It is a real potash soap made pure for use, not To make a good lubricating mixture for made cheap for sale by the addition of cutting thread in hard tool steel, use equal water and impurities, and, moreover, cannot parts of turpentine and benzine or kero- be excelled for cleaning or washing pur- sene. For cutting in soft tool steel mix poses, especially for washing flannels, and equal parts of kerosene and lard oil. These will never cause sore hands. mixtures always flow even and keep just Use a first-class pale seal oil for soft about enough moisture at the cutting point. soap for wire drawing, though a good, re- Kearney, N. J. Everett Kneen. fined cotton-seed oil may be used for general purposes. It is absolutely necessary that the caustic potash be imadulterated, for the Lubricants for Redrawingr Shells principle of this cold process of making Zinc shells should be clean and free from soap depends on the use of strong, pure all grit and should be immersed in boiling lye of caustic potash. hot soap water. They must be redrawn The best way of making the suds with while hot to get the best results. On some this soap is as follows : Put 6 pounds of shells hot oil is sometimes used in prefer- the soap into a vessel with 2 gallons of ence to soap water. hot steam water, heat to thoroughly dis- For redrawing aluminum shells use a solve the soap, stirring well, then add C cheap grade of vaseline. It may not be more gallons of water and lastly 3 gallons amiss to add that the draw part of the re- of oil, which should be thoroughly stirred drawing die should not be made too long, so into the soap and water, so that on stand- as to prevent "too much friction," which ing over-night the oil will not separate. causes the shells to split and shrivel up. This will be found to give very good re- For redrawing copper shells use good thick soap water as a lubricant. The soap sults. the used should be of a kind that will produce The cost of this soap depends on quality of the oil and whether wholesale or plenty of "slip" ; if none such is to be had, mix a quantity of lard oil with the soap retail prices are paid. Even at the latter water on hand and boil the two together. it will not exceed 7 cents per pound. With Sprinkling graphite over the shells just be- cotton-seed oil and wholesale prices it can fore redrawing sometimes helps out on a be made for about 5 cents a pound. mean job. C. F. EMERSOiSr. Milwaukee, Wis. A. F. Bierbach. :

BELT AND ROPE DRESSINGS 45

liUbricant for Drawing* Dies is a piece of tallow. I have noticed a The following mixture has given very great number of receipts given, but I find good results as a lubricant on drawing dies that this simple means answers the purpose equally well or better than anything else. when drawing sheet metal : Boil together until thoroughly mixed, 1 pound of white Marquette, Mich. Geo. W. Smith. lead, 1 quart of fish oil, 1 pint of water, and 3 ounces of black lead. Apply to the sheet metal with a brush before it enters IiUbricant for Small Oilstones the dies. Jos. M. Stabel. As a lubricant for honing out dies or other Rochester, N. Y. work with an oilstone, kerosene oil gives the best results as it not only enables the Iiubricant for Drilling* Copper stone to take hold, but keeps it clean and The best thing in my opinion to use for prevents it from filling up. drilling copper, especially with small drills. C. P. Emerson.

BELT AND ROPE DRESSINGS Belt Dressing* Wire Bope Grease

I have found the following mixture to A mixture of % oil and 14 colophony answer the purpose of a good belt dressing (rosin), will be found to be a very good as well as an excellent anti-slip medium lubricant for wire ropes such as used on for hard-worked leather driving belts power transmitting and conveying machin-

Russian tallow, 1 ounce ; best lard oil, 2 ery, if applied warm. Boiled linseed oil ounces ; Venice turpentine, 16 ounces. This also answers the same purpose when high dressing is good to use on the belts of belt- speed is required. Max J. Ociies. driven motor cycles. W. R. Bowers. Cleveland. O. Birmingham, Eng. Belt Dressing* A great many people think they know how to make a good belt dressing. This Transmission Rope Dressing* accounts for the many poor ones in the A good transmission rope dressing Is market. Here is one that will do about made by melting together 450 pounds of all the good that any of them will and tallow, 33 pounds rosin, 150 pounds bees- none of the harm to the structure of the wax, 20 pounds pine tar, 14 pounds lamp- belt. Melt a pound of beeswax in a gallon black, and 15 pounds tobacco tin-foil. of neatsfoot oil by a gentle heat. The Pour the mixture in molds to make stock most convenient way to secure a good mix- 2% inches in diameter, and 11 inches long, ture is to melt the beeswax first, then add weighing about 3 pounds each. Use one the oil slowly, stirring it constantly until for about 400 feet of one-inch rope. it is thoroughly mixed. New York. Herman Jonson. Neponset, Mass. Oscar E. Perrigo.

FIRE AND WATERPROOFING RECEIPTS

Pireproofing* Solution for Toolmakers' ing and tempering tools, etc., will often Aprons, Etc. save bad fires or serious accidents. Toolmakers' aprons, factory shades and E, W. Norton. other inflammable materials may be rendered absolutely fireproof by being treated To Waterproof Leather with the following solution : To 1/2 pound tungstate of soda add 2 quarts of water, To waterproof leather and leave it soft or enough to entirely dissolve it, and bottle and pliable, apply a mixture of 4 parts up tightly. This stock solution is to be castor oil and 1 part raw India rubber, by added to suflacient water required to soak weight. Heat the oil to 250 degrees F.. the article in the proportion of one-fifth then add the rubber, cut into small pieces. the above solution to the required water. Gradually stir until the rubber is com- After being soaked, hang the article up to pletely dissolved and then pour into a suit- dry. Fireproofing factory shades at win- able vessel and let cool. If used on dark dows near gas jets or the cloth aprons leather add sufficient printer's ink to cive woi*n when working over a fire in harden- the dark color. E. W. Norton. : ;

46 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FOr

To Waterproof Cloth Tool Bags or a forge apply three coats of 3 parts alum Cases and 1 part copperas, dissolved in water. To waterproof tool bags or cases made Apply hot, and only allow sufficient time of duck or other cloth, either of the follow- between applications for the preparation to ing formulas may be used saturate the wood. Follow this with a fourth coat of solution Use 1/^ pound of alum and 2 ounces of composed of cop- saltpeter dissolved In 1 quart of water. peras made to the consistency of paint by Immerse the article to be waterproofed in mixing with flroclay. This treatment will not only render the wood fireproof but will this mixture for 40 minutes, and boil hard ; then rinse in cold hard water, hang up and preserve it for many times its ordinary life. let dry thoroughly before using. Another flreproofing mixture for the Melt % pound of parafflne wax and mix same purpose is composed of 3 parts ground in 1 quart of gasoline. Immerse the article wood ashes and 1 part boiled linseed oil. in this and wring out and spread out to This is applied with a brush. dry. In a short time it is ready to use. Still another flreproofing treatment con- E. W. Norton. sists of three applications of a hot solution of phosphate of ammonia. The last two To Fireproof Wood in Forge Shops treatments require renewing at least once a To protect the woodwork around or near year. E. W. Norton.

CLAYS AND CLAY SUBSTITUTES

Mixture for Fire Cement mortar. Apply at once as it hardens cracks To make a fire cement use 100 parts fire quickly. It is good for stopping in boiler settings and other brickwork struc- clay, wet-; 3 parts black oxide manganese ; tures where not exposed to very high tem- 3 parts white sand ; and % part powdered asbestos. Thoroughly mix, adding sufficient peratures. Although of an improvised and water to make a smooth mortar. primitive nature it answers the purpose Syracuse, N. Y. C. E. Mink. very well, and has the merit of being made of materials available almost everywhere.

It is a very old receipt ; in various proportions it was used by our forefathers years Emergency Repairs of Boiler Furnace ago. P. Emerson. to repair the boiler When it is necessary Newark, N. J. furnace and fire brick cannot be obtained, take common earth, mix with water in which has been dissolved a small amount Claying Mixture for Forges of common salt. Use this mixture the Running as we do about twenty-four same as fire clay. It will be found to last fires in our smith shop, we have experienced almost as long. R. E. Verse. some little difficulty in securing a satisfactory claying mixture with which to clay the forges. This difficulty arises, in part, Fire Clay Mixture from the fact that the forges are used by A fire clay mixture that will stand a high inexperienced individuals. After repeated temperature without cracking or checking trials with various mixtures recommended, experimented until finally hit upon is mixed as follows : 45 per cent crushed we we fire brick, 50 per cent fire clay, and 5 per the eminently satisfactory one given in the cent clean, sharp sand. This is to be mois- following : 20 parts fire clay ; 20 parts tened and mixed to a heavy paste, tamped cast iron turnings ; 1 part common salt into the shape required and burned dry. V2 part sal-ammoniac ; all by measure. Denver, Col. E. W. Bowen. The materials should be thoroughly mixed dry and then wet down to the consistency of common mortar, constantly stirring the mass as the wetting proceeds. A Mortar for Stopping Holes in Boiler rough mold shaped to fit the tuyere open- Settings, Btc. ing, a trowel and a few minutes' time I have successfully used the following are all that are needed to complete the simple mortar for stopping leaks in chim- successful claying of the forge. This mix- neys, etc. : Mix hardwood ashes, 3 quarts ; ture dries hard and when glazed by the chimney soot, 1 quart ; common salt, 1 fire will outlast anything ever tried. quart ; and sufficient water to make a stiff St. Louis, Mo. Stanley H. Moore. VARNISHES 47 VARNISHES

Varnish for Steel purities held in suspension in the vamish. These A good varnish for steel may be made l).v may be entirely precipitated by the dissolving 10 parts of clear grains of mas- gradual addition of some crystals of oxalic tic, 5 parts of camphor, 15 parts of san- acid, stirring the varnish to aid their solu- darac, and 5 parts of elemi in a sufficient tion, and then setting it aside over night quantitj' of grain alcohol. Apply the to permit the impurities to settle. No more varnish without heat. Jos. M. Stabel. acid should be used than is really neces- Rochester, N. Y. sary. Oscar E. Peerigo. Neponset, Mass.

Vamisli for Iron Work To make a varnish for outdoor wood and Black Vamish for Iron ironwork, dissolve in about 2 pounds of A good black varnish for cast iron and tar oil 1/2 pound of asphaltum and a like forgings can be made of i/4 pound lamp- quantity of pounded rosin ; mix hot in an black ; 1^ pound rosin ; 1 asphaltum pound ; iron kettle, care being taken to prevent 1 quart turpentine spirits ; and a small any contact with the flame. When cold quantity linseed oil. The lampblack is first the varnish is ready for use. rubbed up with the linseed oil, no more oil Rochester, N. Y. Joseph M. Stabel. being used than necessary for this purpose. The other ingredients are then mixed with it thoroughly. O. G. Black Varnish for Metals A good varnish for finishing metals can be made by mixing 1,000 parts of benzine, 300 parts of pulverized asphalt, and 6 Varnishing* Blue-prints or Drawings parts of pure India rubber, to which is The appearance of varnished blue-prints added enough lampblack to give the de- and drawings may be greatly improved and sired consistency to the mixture. the amount of bleached shellac varnish Bridgeport, Conn. H. A. Sheuwood. considerably decreased by the following

process : Soak overnight a quantity of isinglass in just enough cold water to cover Varnish for Drawings it. Use a perfectly clean glue kettle, in it is to be heated up, adding what- Dissolve by gentle heat 8 ounces of san- which ever amount of water may be needed to darac in 32 ounces of alcohol. Another make a moderately thin sizing. Apply this receipt is : Dissolve 2 pounds of mastic and warm, not hot, to the drawing or blue- 2 pounds of a lammar in 1 gallon turpen- print. When dry apply one good coat of tine without heat. The drawings must bleached shellac varnish. The effect will first be sized with a strong solution of is- be nearly as good as the best varnished inglass and hot water. W. R. Bowers. Birmingham, Eng. maps. Oscar E. Perrigo. Neponset, Mass.

Varnish for Cast Iron Patterns Composition of Spirit Varnish For small cast iron patterns the follow- The table below gives the composition in ing is a very satisfactory method of varnishing. Apply boiled linseed oil to the ounces of eight different kinds of varnish : iron, the pattern being heated to a tem- Sandarac 2 8 — 4 2 — 1 1 Best shellac 1 — ,5 2 5 10 5 4 perature that will just char or blacken the Mastic 1/2 1 — 2 1 i oil ; the oil appears to enter the pores of Benzoin — — — 1 — — 1 1 the iron, and after such an application the Powdered glass. .1 — — 4 5 — — — Venice turpentine — 1 metal resists rust and corrosive agents very 12122 — Elemi 1/2 ly^ — satisfactorily. James A. Pratt. Alcohol 6 32 32 32 24 32 32 32 Howard, R. I. Vamish can be "paled" by adding 2

drams of oxalic acid per pint of varnish ; it can be colored red with dragon's blood, To Clarify Shellac Varnish brown with logwood or madder, and yel- Even with the best of care the pattern- low with aloes or gamboge, each dissolved maker will find his shellac leaving dirty in spirits and strained. W. R. Bqwebs. streaks on the pattern from various im- Birmingham, England. 48 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

To Improve the Color of Shellac solved. This does hot always cure the Varnish trouble. Any desired depth of tint may be obtained by the addition of a small Occasionally the shellac varnish used readily quantity of gamboge previously dissolved in by the pattern-maker for varnishing very a small quantity of alcohol. It should be nice patterns will seem to lose its clear, kept on hand for this purpose. amber tint. It is frequently the case that the jar is cleaned out and a fresh lot dis- Neponset, Mass. Oscar E. Perrigo.

PAINTS AND ^WHITEW^ASHES

Waterproof Paint for Plaster Marking Paint To make waterproof paint for plaster In shops making a business of repairing get some mica plates, bleach them by fire, machinery, it is generally necessary to mark boil in hydrochloric acid, wash and dry the parts of machines in some way so that they may be properly reassembled.. This is and reduce to a fine powder ; then mix with sufficient quantity of collodion to make it especially true in railway shops, where the run from the brush. Apply with ordinary marking is necessary more for the purpose paint brush. F. L. Engel. of distinguishing the parts of different en- New Britain, Conn. gines. The best way to mark such parts, of course, is to stamp them with steel dies ; but this is not always practicable, and, in the absence of such means of marking, it is Paint for Pitting and Scraping- customary to use a marking paint made of white lead mixed with turpentine to a thin To make a paint for fitting and scraping consistency. Such paint dries quickly and get five or ten cents' worth of scarlet ver- when dry is not easily removed. It has the milion (powder) at any store where paint advantage of showing up fairly well on is sold. Melt a tablespoonful of lard and greasy surfaces, but it is better that the mix into the dry paint until like thick surfaces to be marked should be well cleaned cream, and when cold it is just right. The with kerosene oil before marking. vermilion is very fine and has no grit in Newark, N. J. F. Emerson. it so that the least touch of the mixture shows. This Is better than the tube paint generally used, as being mixed with animal Brilliant Whitewash oil, it will stand exposure to the air for a Half a bushel unslaked lime ; slake with

year or more without drying ; but the tube warm water, cover it during the process paint is mixed with vegetable oil and will to keep the steam ; strain the liquid soon harden on exposure to the air. Any through a fine sieve or strainer ; add a colored paint powder can be used, which is peck of salt, the same to be previously preferred. To test for grit take some be- well dissolved in warm water ; add three the thumb and forefinger. F. W. B. tween pounds of ground rice boiled to a thin

paste and stir in boiling hot ; add one-half pound of glue which has been previously dissolved over a slow fire and add five gal- Zinc Paint for Oil Wells lons of hot water to the mixture, stir well having occasion to paint oil wells Persons and let it stand for a few days, covering surface coming in con- of bearings, or any up to keep out dirt. It should be put on oil, a tact with either hot or cold will find hot. One pint of the mixture, properly zinc paint consisting of 2.5 pounds oxide of applied, will cover a square yard. Small gloss oil, 1 quart lin- zhic, 3 gallons and brushes are best. There is nothing can bleached seed oil, cut with turpentine, and compare with it for outside or inside work with ultramarine blue, to be one of the and it retains its brilliancy for many years. best coverings ever made. The surface to Coloring matter may be put in and made of be covered should be absolutely free of all any shade— Spanish brown, yellow ochre, greasy or oily substances ; if proper care or common clay, etc. is taken, the paint will not crack and will Yours truly, retain its pure white appearance indefi- U. S. Graxt. nitely. The paint can be blown into water To my dear friend, I. Bulson, jackets of bearings, filling the sand holes, San Francisco.

and as it dries rapidly, will be found ex- P. S. : I whitewashed the White House cellent for the purpose. Electro. all over with it. U. S. G. PLASTER OF PARIS 49

Waterproof Marking^ Faint for Stone ings, shop interiors, etc., that will not flake fall off, 1 part fine Portland To prepare a marking paint for use on and mix whitewash. stone where exposed to the water and cement with about 8 gallons the dampness, use pitch, 11 pounds, lamp- The cement binds the whitewash to a permanent covering black, 1 pound, and heat carefully, adding wood and makes sufficient turpentine to give the mixture the which is imaffected by weather conditions. desired consistency. M. E. Canek. The small quantity of cement used and the constant stirring necessary to keep the whitewash in good condition for applying, prevents the cement hardening in lumps at XtTon-flaking* Whitewash the bottom of the pail, as might be ex- To prepare whitewash for fences, build- pected. M. E. Cankk.

PLASTER OP PARIS

Mixing* Plaster of Paris definitely. While it is brittle, this is more Almost every one has to mix up gypsum than offset by the saving in first cost and or plaster of paris once in a while, but few the quickness with which the pattern may be prepared. of paris sets in from know how to do it so as to make a smooth Plaster cream, or thin dough, without lumps. The three to six minutes, but if for any reason it is desired keep the plastic for a trick is not to pour the water on the plas- to mass period, of glue to a five- ter, but to turn the latter gradually into longer one drop gallon mixture will keep it soft for a couple the water, spreading it about in shaking of hours. Plaster of paris mixed with it in, and to avoid stirring until all the of about 1-10 plaster has been added. The proper quan- cold water has an expansion inch to the foot when hardening. Should tity of gypsum is usually enough to peep undesirable, mix with warm water out over the surface of the water over the this be or lime water and there is no expansion. greater part of the area ; that is, about Donald A. Hampson. equal volumes of each ingredient. The ad- Middletown, N. Y. dition of glue-water to the mixture retards setting. Robert Grimshaw. Hanover, Germany. To Delay the Setting- of Plaster of Paris Plaster of Paris for Pattern Making* Citric acid will delay the setting of plas- For experimental purposes and where but ter of paris for several hours. One ounce of a few castings of medium and light weight acid, at a cost of about five cents, will be are required, plaster of paris has many sufficient to delay the setting of one hun- good advantages as a material for pattern dred pounds of plaster of paris for two or making. It is light, it can be given a three hours. Dissolve the acid in the water smooth surface, it is easily given any re- before mixing the plaster. quired shape and it can be added to in- Indianapolis, Ind. Otto L. Lewis.

POLISHING AND FINISHING ^WOOD

Mixture for Ehonizing* Wood Han- linseed oil, and shake the whole mixture. dles, Etc. Apply with a sponge, brush or flannel. Rub To prepare a mixture for ebonizing wood the wood thoroughly after the application. E. W. Norton. handles, etc., use logwood, 2 pounds ; tannic acid, 1 pound, and sulphate of iron, 1 To Finish Wooden Handles, Gun pound. Apply hot and polish when the Stocks, Etc. pieces have become dry and cold. The wooden parts of tools, the forearms Birmingham, Eng. W. R. BowEUS. and stocks of guns, etc., are often made to have a fine appearance by French polishing, but this finish adds little or nothing Polishing* Wood to their durability. A much better finish is A very nice polish on wood is obtained to soak the wood in linseed oil for a week by using the following mixture : % pint and then rub it with an oil-soaked cloth of alcohol, % ounce of shellac, and % a few minutes every day for a week or two ounce of rosin. Dissolve the shellac and longer. This solidifies and preserves the

rosin in the alcohol ; then add % pint of work. A. L. Monrad. 50 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS TO RECUT OLD FILES

To Becut Old Files again. They will then be free of grease Dissolve four ounces of saleratus in one and metal. Then put them in a box, lined quart of water and boil the files in it for with sheet lead, on a wire stand made for half an hour, wash and dry them. Have the purpose, and In such a way that they ready in a glass or stoneware vessel 1 will not touch one another. Cover them quart of rain water to which 4 ounces of with a solution made of nitric acid and best sulphuric acid have been slowly added, water, one pint of acid to each gallon of keeping these proportions for any amount water. In 25 minutes remove them, wash used. Immerse the files in this prepara- them in water, brush them with a hair tion, then wash them clean. Dry quickly brush and put them back in the liquid to and cover with a little sweet oil. Coarse which one more pint of nitric acid to each files should remain in the diluted sulphuric gallon of water has been added. In about acid for about twelve hours, though from 50 minutes remove them again, brush them six to eight hours are enough for fine ones. after washing them with water and put Files may be recut three times by this them back in the liquid to which has been process, and the liquors may be used at added % pint of sulphuric acid per each different times if desired. R. B. Caset. gallon of water. In 15 minutes remove

Schenectady, N. Y. them ; wash them first in water, then in concentrated lime water till all trace of the acid has disappeared. When dry they To Becut Old Files will have the appearance and cutting qual- Brush the old files with a wire brush, put ity of new files. I used this method for them in a tub, cover them with water and recutting old files long ago and found it add 6 ounces of caustic soda per each 100 O. K., and so can recommend it. flies. In about two hours brush them Los Angeles, Cal. J. M. Menequs.

EYE WASHES, SALVES, CLEANING COMPOUNDS, DISINFECTANTS, ETC.

Use of Turpentine for Wounds Artificial Skin for Burns, Etc. The machinist often cuts or bruises his Dissolve equal parts of gun cotton and hands and by having a small bottle of tur- Venice turpentine in 20 parts sulphuric pentine handy he can at once bathe the in- ether, dissolving the cotton first and then jured part, which will relieve the soreness the turpentine. Keep in a tighly corked and perhaps protect it from blood poisoning. bottle. The use of the turpentine is to Angelica, N. Y. F. H. Jackson. prevent pressure or pinching of the flesh caused by the evaporation of the ether when applied. Water does not affect this Mixtures for Cleaning* G-rimy Hands covering, hence its value for bums on the A good mixture for cleaning grimy hands face or hands. E. W. Norton. is made by pounding a cake of "Sapolio" or "Bon Ami" up quite fine, and stirring it For Chapped Hands—Eye Wash. into a cupful of pure leaf lard, heated very I worked in a drug store for several hot. Stir until well mixed and when it is years and tried many combinations for partly cool pour into a tin or tins of con- chapped hands and finally selected the fol- venient size to get the fingers into. lowing: Bay rum. 3 ounces; glycerine, 1 Worcester, Mass. M. E. Howe. ounce; carbolic acid, % dram (30 drops). Wash the hands well and apply while hands are soft, preferably just before going to To Prevent Hands Chapping' in Winter bed. Buli in thoroughly. This rarely fails A machinist's hands are apt to get sore to cure the worst "chaps" in two nights. and stiff from exposure. Take a four-ounce Also a most excellent eye wash is as bottle and put in same 3 ounces glycerine, 1 follows : Boric acid, 40 grains ; camphor ounce alcohol, and from 20 to 30 drops of water and distilled water, each 2 ounces. carbolic acid. After v^ashing the hands, Bathe the eyes freely several times a day. and while they are a little damp, apply a This is handy to have when the eyes are few drops and thoroughly rub it in. It is inflamed from having steel or emery, etc., also good to use at night. in them. George C. Nash. Angelica, N. Y. F. H. Jackson. Rockford, 111. EYE WASHES, SALVES, ETC. 51

To Treat Inflamed Eyes—Care of the able, particularly to a man "off on a job," Eyes to keep this simple remedy in mind may be well The treatment of an inflamed eye Is worth while. Donald A. Hampson. a matter of some moment in a machine Middletown. N. Y. shop, and too much care cannot be taken to treat such cases scientifically. You have only two eyes—imless you are a foreman, and Disinfectant then you are supposed to be a full-fledged It is frequently necessary to disinfect our pineapple, as far as eyes are concerned. offices and shops ; a very effective and inex- A splendid remedy for an inflamed eye pensive means is as follows: To 6% is solution a weak of powdered borax water ounces of crystals of potassium perman- either or — warm cold—applied by rubbing ganate, add one pint of formaldehyde (40 it in the eye with a cloth, or dropping it per cent) for every 1,000 cubic feet of room in. It is very soothing and will drive space. The disinfectant should be mixed in the soreness and inflammation out and a metal receptacle having at least ten times leave the eye in a better condition than it the volume of the ingredients used. This was before it irritated. was The proper is required to prevent the mixture from proportion is a spoonful of powdered borax boiling over. The receptacle holding the glass in a of water. A mechanic should crystals should be placed near the center always bear in mind that the loss of an of the room which is to be disinfected, drive eye may him to selling shoe-strings. after ascertaining that all doors, windows, pair of plain eyeglasses will protect A the etc., are securely calked to prevent the gas eyes from chips or emery, and borax water from escaping. The formaldehyde solution Is good for tired eyes too—the kind of should be ready to be poured upon the eyes you have when working too much over- crystals, which must be done quickly. The time. room must then be left closed for at least Another eye kink is to get a roimd look- thirty-six hours to obtain the best results. ing glass about 3 inches in diameter, and Denver, Col. E. W, Bowen. on the back of it near the center attach a cloth band or strap. I made one with a ball-and-socket joint. Now this strap Is Compound for Cleaning' the Hands made to fit easily around the head, the grease, the hands glass resting against the forehead. The To loosen the oil and should first be scrubbed with a stiff brush function of this glass is to reflect the kerosene, and then they should be light from a distant window on to the dipped in wiped dry with waste. Take a five-cent box work. It is a very satisfactory rig to wear of soap powder (I prefer Soapine, because when filing to a line or working to a line it freely), add to it an equal quan- on a machine. The finer the glass the lathers tity of white sand. Mix thoroughly and better is the focus of light reflected. By the wet hands in the form of a using a ball-and-socket joint the glass can rub over This compound will rinse off in be instantly adjusted to throw the light on paste. kind of hard or soft, hot or cold water. the point you wish to see. Every diemaker any in this manner twice a day ought to have one. Carroll Ashley. Hands washed grime and clean all over. Rochester, N. Y. will be free from New York. H. J. Bachmann. Preventing" Serious Results from In- juries from Rusted Objects Everyone knows how a small wound Plaster or Salve for Use in Place of caused by rusty pieces of metal oftentimes Stitches develops blood poison, or lockjaw. The fol- To make a plaster or salve which can be lowing old-fashioned but infallible "first aid used in case of accident in place of stitches to the injured" may therefore be of value where a person has sustained a deep cut, to remember. An ordinary lump of brown melt together white rosin, 7 ounces, bees- sugar is heated on the surface sufficiently wax, % ounce ; mutton tallow, % ounce. hot to produce smoke, and the wound is Pour into cold water and work with the held in this smoke for several minutes. No hands imtil it is thoroughly incorporated, serious results will follow after this treat- and roll out into suitable sticks for use. ment, and all soreness will be taken out of When required warm and spread upon a the wound even though the application takes firm piece of cloth, cutting the wax into place some time after the accident. The smoke narrow strips in case of deep wounds. It given ofE by burning woolen rags is equally will be found to hold the edges of the flesh effective, and, as they are more often avail- firmly together. E. W. Norton. ;

52 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Vseful Salve Ziiq.tiid Court Plaster While a great many shops now have At your druggist's procure an ounce bot- facilities for attending to shop accidents, tle and have him fill it three-fourths full of the necessity Is often felt by the mechanic flexible collodion, and fill up with ether. working in a small shop, or outside, for a Apply to cuts, bruises, etc., and it protects useful salve to be applied to wounds in them and will not wash oflP. If the ether case of accident. The writer has made the evaporates, leaving it too thick for use, following salve himself, has used it, and have more ether put in to liquefy it. It is knows that it is far in advance of most a good thing to have in the house ; also articles for sale in drug stores at ten times the tool chest. F. H. Jacksox. Angelica, N. Y. the price. The ingredients are as follows : Two parts of swallow oil, five parts of petrol wax, two parts eucalyptus, and two parts of beeswax. Aeden.

MISCELLANEOUS USEFUL RECEIPTS Marking" Folislied Steel Mixtures for Making Plug Cocks and A very handy way of marking polished G-lass Stoppers Tiglit anti-leak and lubricating steel for sizes, instructions, etc., is to keep To make an mixture for plug cocks use 2 parts of tried a small oil can filled with turpentine with suet 1 part of beeswax melted together which to saturate a small piece of waste and stir thoroughly, strain and cool. as needed ; rub over the surface to be marked and then do the marking with an A mixture for making glass stoppers tight is made by melting together equal parts of indelible copying pencil, which will show up glycerine and parafiin. L. S. Burbank. very plain. Of course the can of turpen- Worcester, Mass. tine also comes in handy to use for drilling hard steel, springs, etc. St. Paul, Minn. Arthur Munch. To Keep Steel Tools in Tlieir Handles

To keep steel tools in their handles, fill Iron or Steel? the handle with powdered rosin and a little rotten stone. Heat the tang of the tool To find out whether a piece is steel or hot, and then push it down hard into the iron touch it with nitric acid, using a handle ; when it is cold it will be firmly stick of wood, and then wash it with water. set. M. E. Howe. If iron, a light or azure stain will appear, Worcester, Mass. if steel, the stain will be black. Los Angeles, Cal. J. M. Menegus. Strop Paste for Razors and Keen Edge Tools Acid Test for Iron and Steel An excellent strop paste for edging A simple acid test for iron steel and is razors or other keen-edge tools is a mixture made as follows : The sample to be tested of levigated oxide of tin, 1 ounce, powdered should be filed smooth or polished. Then gum, 20 oxalic acid, 14 ovmce ; powdered place it in dilute nitric or sulphuric acid grains. Mix to a paste with water, spread for from 15 to hours ; 20 then wash and evenly over, and work well into the strop dry the sample. The best steel then has with some smooth surface. The rough side a frosty appearance, ordinary steel has a of the strop gives best results. honeycombed appearance ; and iron presents Denver, Col. E. W. Bowbn. a fibrous structure in the direction in which it has been worked. A. A. To Dissolve Glass A hole may be cut or etched through To Prevent Babbitt Metal or l^ead from glass readily by using hydrofluoric acid. Exploding* The acid should be applied in the same way Before pouring the babbitt metal, throw as etching acid, using wax to surround the in a piece of rosin the size of a walnut and portion of the glass which is to be pene- allow it to melt. If the bearings to be trated. Hydrofluoric acid is sold m wax lined with babbitt are warmed before pour- bottles, as it cannot be kept in glass. It ing, the metal will run better, thus insuring may be handled with a hard rubber dropper a better job. R. B. Casey. similar in construction to the ordinary glass Schenectady, N. Y medicine droppers. S. W. Green. MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS 53

Acid Pickling* for Forg-ing-s To Weld Spring- Steel To remove scale from drop forgings An experienced blacksmith has used for which have to be machined, dip in a pickle years the following in welding steel composed of hot water 24 parts, sulphuric springs. Just before the steel comes to a acid 1 part. Hardener. welding heat he placed a small piece of Russian sheet Iron—such as stove bodies

are made of—on the joint ; this melts and To Write Black on Glass or Bright runs into the joint so that the weld is Metal pel feet. X. Y. Z. To write black on glass or bright metal, use 1 to 2 parts of silicate of soda with Steel Welding Compound 10 parts of india ink. Write with a steel pen. F. H. Jackson. A good compound for welding cast steel is Angelica, N. Y. made as follows : 41 % parts, boracic

acid ; 35 parts, common salt ; 20 parts, fer- rocyanide of potassium; 714 parts, rosin; 4 parts, carbonate of sodium. Heat the To Cut Off Glass Tubes pieces to be welded to a light red heat and Saturate a cotton string in kerosene, apply above compound, then heat to a wrap it around the glass tube where you strong yellow heat and the welding may be wish to have it cut, set fire to the string, accomplished in the usual manner. and when all parts are ablaze, plunge the The usual precaution applies, of course, glass in a pail of water. Give the top of in the use of the above, the same as with the glass a light blow with a stick, and any of the cyanides, and that is to avoid there will be an even break all around. breathing the poisonous fumes. A. A. Detroit, Mich. Chaules Sherman.

Bicycle Tire Anti-leak To Remove Steel Cliips from Jig's and Many machinists ride their bicycles to the Xiike and from work and are consequently in- It is often very desirable to remove chips terested iu anything that will make tires jigs of steel from and the like each time more nearly puncture-proof. I have not a new piece is inserted. An easy way to tried the following anti-leak compound, but do this is to put a pound of caustic soda in infer from a note in the English Mechanic of water dip the jig in every a gallon and that it works successfully on both single time it is desired to remove the chips. and inner-tube tires. Mix H pint of silicate Winnetka, 111. F. Pavlik, Jr. of soda (water glass), % Pint of commercial glycerine and a large tablespoonful of

rubberine ; inject about a teacupful into To Bemove Hard Grease, Faint, Btc, the tire. If too thick, a little water can be from Machinery mixed with it to thin it. If rubberine is

To remove grease, paint, etc., from ma- not available use powdered rosin. chinery add half a pound of caustic soda M. E. Canek. to two gallons of water and boil the parts to be cleaned in the fluid. It is possible to use it several^mes before its strength Frocess for Fulverlzing Borax is exhausted. ^ F. Pavlik, Jr. To a two-gallon pail of boiling water add Wmnetka, 111. as much borax as will dissolve—and a sur- prising amount will dissolve—12 to 15 The Use of Brass Wire in Brazing pounds in two gallons of water. When as In place of spelter use wire or rod brass much borax is added to the boiling water and boracic acid as a flux. Anneal the end as will dissolve, set the pail in cold water, of wire or rod by heating, while the joint running water preferred. Stir contents is getting hot, and after dipping the rod vigorously, which will in a few minutes into boracic acid, apply to the joint, the rod form into a thick mass ; spread this out melting at the end will flow into the joint. thin on some smooth surface, as tin, where After the joint is cooled, submerge in hot it will soon dry to flakes which, when handled, will crumble to dust. This process soda water ; this will take ofi: every parti- cle of acid, leaving only the brass to be is employed here at the Rock Island ar- filed off. F. H. Jackson. senal. Albert D. Knauel. Angelica, N. Y. Moline, 111. ;

54 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

To Restore Burnt Steel To Fnncli Hard Bubber To restore burnt cast steel heat the piece To punch hard rubber successfully heat to a red heat and sprinkle over it a mix- the punch and die, or the material. The ture of 8 parts, red chromate of potassium blanks usually curl or wrinkle into almost aloes part, 4 parts, saltpeter ; % part, ; % every conceivable shape in the operation of gum arable, and % part, rosin. A. A. cutting. To straighten and bring them back to their original outline, allow the punchings to drop into a pan of hot water. Anti-freezingf Solution The action of the hot water causes the curled parts return flat A solution for water jackets on gas en- to to their former gines that will not freeze at any tempera- shape, the same as before passing through ture above 20 degrees below zero may be the die. L. C. Carr. made by combining 100 parts of water by Lynn, Mass. weight with 75 parts of carbonate potash and 50 parts of glycerine. This solution is To Test Galvanized Wire non-corrosive and will remain perfectly liquid at all temperatures above its con- The Western Union Telegraph Co. sub- gealing point. jects its wires to the following test in order to ascertain that they are well galvanized. The wire is plunged into a satu- Se-inking* Time-clock Riljlions rated solution of sulphate of copper (blue For re-inking time-clock ribbons we use vitriol), and permitted to remain in this the following receipt for black : 1 ounce for one minute, after which it is wiped aniline black ; 15 ounces pure grain alcohol clean. This process is repeated four times. 15 ounces concentrated glycerine. Dissolve If the wire appears black after the fourth the aniline black in the alcohol and then immersion, it shows that the zinc has not add the glycerine. For blue use prussian all been removed, and that the galvanizing blue, and for red use red lead instead of has been well done ; but if it has a copper the aniline black. This ink is also good color, the iron is exposed, showing that the for rubber stamp pads. zinc coating is too thin. O. G. Moline, 111. Albert D. Knadel.

To To Cut Cork Test WMte I^ead This simple test to determine the purity In cutting cork, the knife should be kept of white lead may be found useful greased. Where, however, the desired piece where much painting is being done. It is as fol- is symmetrical about one axis, and of cir- lows : Select a piece of charcoal of firm cular cross-section, it may best be roughed structure, and hollow out a cavity in one with a greasy knife and then ground to side about inch in diameter and of the profile with a coarse emery wheel. Cork % same depth. Put a sample of white pen-holders are made in this way. Where lead in the hollow about the size of many pieces are to be cut out of sheet a pea, and subject it for a few moments to a blow-pipe cork, it is advisable to use a band knife, flame. If the sample is pure, it will quickly against which there is kept pressed a block reduce to metallic lead. Adulterated of grease. Robert Grimshaw. white lead will generally contain Hanover, Germany. a residue that cannot be reduced. M. E. Canek.

Insulating Covering for Steam Pipes and Boilers Packing for Gas Engine Cylinders and To one barrel of lime use six barrels of Pipe Carrying- Gasoline Vapor sawdust. Slake the lime in an ordinary To prepare packing for joints in pipes, mortar bed, and when slaked mix in the etc., carrying gasoline vapor, mix a quan- sawdust, using enough mortar to make it of tity of graphite and kerosene to a thick the consistency of mortar. Apply when the paste and apply the paste to both sides of steam is on. The covering is adapted for sheet asbestos. When dry the packing may steam pipes and boilers, more especially in be cut to the shape desired. The graphite sawmills and other places where a box can helps the asbestos make intimate contact be built around the pipe so as to hold the with the iron and thus maintain a tight mixture in place. It is approved by insur- joint continuously at high temperature for ance companies. Theodore Disch. an indefinite time. H. J. Bachmann. Milwaukee, Wis. New York. MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS 55

Packing- for Gasoline Fumps WasMng- Oily Waste For packing pumps on gasoline engines The following is an excellent method of use asbestos wick-packing rubbed full of washing oily waste. The chief objection regular laundry soap ; it will work without to most of the common methods employed undue friction and will pack tightly. Com- is that the waste, after being dried, is mon rubber-packing is not as good, as the found to be matted and of a hard, gritty gasoline cuts it out. A. A. texture. The common method of washing the waste, using sal-soda in solution, is a good one, as far as the cleaning qualities To Remove Grease or Dirt from are concerned, but it leaves the waste hard Mercury and matted, so that it is difficult to handle. simple remedy for this is to rinse the To cleanse mercury first put a ten per A (after being cleaned in the sal-soda cent solution of nitric acid in an iron ladle, waste solution), in very hot water, to which has and then the mercury to be cleaned ; place same over a blacksmith's forge until the been added a quantity of liquid ammonia. This will the waste soft light nitric acid boils. The dirt will then rise render and dry. T. E. to the top, and leave the mercury perfectly when O'Donnell. clean in the bottom. Care must be used Urbana, 111. not to let the mercury boil, as the fumes are very poisonous. H. C. Molding- Mixture for Rubber Stamps and Patterns

The following mixture is one which can Investigating- Adulterations in Belts be used for making molds for rubber stamps, and Zieather special shapes of rubber, or for compli- Some manufacturers make their belts cated, odd, or queer-shaped patterns of and leather heavier in the following way : small size, as the working must be done The leather is kept in a current of steam inside of ten minutes ; the surface takes at low temperature until its pores are well a finish as smooth as glass if well rubbed. open. Then it is put in a solution of If an impression is to be made, the surface glucose. The leather absorbs the liquid, of the type or article to be impressed and in drying the water evaporates and should be rubbed with a solution of kero- the pores close, retaining the glucose. To .3ene, and graphite. Plaster of paris, 5 find out whether belts or leather have un- pounds ; French chalk, 2 pounds ; china dergone this operation, put a piece of the i^ clay, 2 pounds ; dextrine, pound. Mix suspected leather in some distilled water, with dextrine water, which is made by dis- and when it is well soaked, half fill a glass solving 1 pound of dextrine in one gallon tube with some of the water, add a few of water. Frank G. Steeling. drops of sulphate of copper, and fill the Lowell, Mass. tube with a solution of caustic potash. Stir the liquid well and let it boil on an alcohol lamp. If the leather is natural, no change To Mend Broken Oilstones will take place in the liquid, but if it contains glucose, a characteristic precipitate A valuable oilstone can usually be saved of copper will form, due to the action of when broken, even if there should be sev- the glucose on the solution of sulphate of eral pieces. The pieces must first be thor- copper and potash. J. M. Menbgus. oughly cleaned and all oil driven from the Los Angeles, Cal. fractured surfaces by heating on a hot iron plate. After the surfaces to be joined are properly prepared, they are well dusted To Babbitt Crossheads with powdered shellac and again heated Some classes of engines have a single until the shellac is melted and flows well bar guide, with a crosshead of the en- into the joints. The heating should be closed type, three sides of which are bab- done on a smooth metal plate and the stone

bitt lined. The crosshead is put in place kept from the flame ; otherwise it is likely on piston rod and guide and the babbitt to crack in other places. Neither must it poured in. I find it an advantage to coat be overheated, for the same reason. When the guide heavily with white lead before the shellac has melted, the parts are pressed pouring the babbitt. This allows the together and clamped until they have crosshead to be removed with little trouble cooled. A joint so made often lasts as long and requires but little scraping to get a as the stone, and if carefully made leaves good running fit. J. V. N. Cheney. no mar in the cutting surface. South Portland, Me. Chicago, 111. O. M. Becker. ;

56 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

To Scale Cast Iron Die Sinkers' Impression Wax

To remove the scale from cast iron use a In the following I give two receipts for solution of 1 part vitriol and 2 parts water die-sinkers' impression wax. In the first after mixing, apply to the scale with a cloth the exact proportions of some of the In- rolled in the form of a brush, using enough gredients are not given, but the maker can to wet the surface well. After 8 or 10 use his own judgment, gradually adding hours wash off with water, when the hard more of one than the other until the right scaly surface will be completely removed. consistency is obtained. 1. Beeswax, 6

Schenectady, N. Y. K. B. Casey. parts ; white wax, 1 part ; a small quantity

of cornstarch ; sufficient Racine castor oil to make it of the desired consistency. Add stearine if too soft. 2. Another receipt is To Braze Steel and Iron Without Heat two parts of beeswax, and one part bay- braze steel or iron without heat take To berry wax. I have found powdered chalk % ounce fluoric acid, 2 ounces of brass useful to remove the stickiness of this wax. filings, and 1 ounce of steel filings. Put Niagara Falls, N. Y. C. W. Shelly. them all into the fluoric. Touch each part of the work with the mixture, and put them together. Take care that the Making* Wax Impressions fluoric acid is put into an earthen vessel. Rochester, N. Y. Joseph M. Stabel. It often happens that it is required in the manufacture of goods to make a wax impression of a sample or model. To do

this successfully proceed as follows : Oil To Clean Jewelry, Silverware and the surface of which the impression is to Metals be made very slightly with a few drops of The following receipt is one that not all oil applied to a little waste. Then take jewelers know. It is also a good prepara- common beeswax, melt it slowly, but do not

tion to clean the hands with ; it will not boil it. Mix it with one or two tablespoon- crack the hands if vaseline is rubbed in fuls of lampblack to half a tumbler of well immediately after rinsing them off in beeswax and stir the mixture. In order to water. make the wax impression show up clearly, Make a saturated solution of cyanide of take a fine hair brush and brush a little potassium by taking a quantity of water, powdered graphite or rouge over the object and dissolving the cyanide in it, until no on which the impression is to be made. more cyanide will dissolve. Dip the article Wallingford, Conn. C. W. Shelly. in this solution until the dirt is eaten off (this takes but a short time), then rinse off in hot water, and dry in boxwood saw- Por Washing" Shop Windows dust. The article will then look better than Soap and water are poor materials with when new. Parke B. Shee. which to wash greasy and dirty shop win- St. Paul, Minn. dows. The labor cost is excessive ; the soapy water gets into the joints of the

window sashes and hastens decay ; and for Receipt for Making- Wax Tapers there is liable to be a good deal of soapy Cores water slopped over benches, tools and ma- Take equal parts of beeswax and pow- chines. The quick way, the economical dered rosin. Melt the wax, sprinkle in the way, and the good way, is to use the fol- powdered rosin, and stir until well mixed. lowing preparation, which has been used If beeswax cannot be had, use paraflSne. by the writer with good success and satis- This composition does not soften the core faction for the past ten years. Dilute as does the ordinary paraffine tapers, be- alcohol with three times its bulk of water. cause the rosin goes into the core when Stir into this whiting enough to thicken it is baked and hardens it. If paraffine is it somewhat. Apply this to the glass with used it is better to make the tapers by dip- a cotton cloth or waste. Leave it fifteen ping cotton wicking into the melted com- or twenty minutes to dry. Then rub off position, as the paraffine makes it rather with a cotton cloth or a handful of waste. brittle. When beeswax is used, the wicking If sashes are to be painted, there will be is not necessary, and the tapers can be no need of a long wait for the wood to formed in the same manner as that em- dry, as the alcohol will very much hasten ployed by pattern-makers in forming bees- the evaporation of the water and leave the wax fillets. John B. Sperrx. woodwork in fine condition for the painter. Aurora, 111. Peabody, Mass. Oscar E. Perrigo. —

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS 57

Satin Finish on Aluminum. term applied to fine abrasive obtained by The article should first be clipped in a the process just explained (manufacturers, caustic soda or caustic potash solution of course, using water-tanks instead of bot- potash preferred— then thoroughly washed tles), the time the liquid is allowed to in clear water and dipped in a bath of stand, in minutes, being used to distinguish concentrated nitric acid, after which It it. Thus, if it stands 15 minutes it will should be thoroughly washed and dried in be known as 15-minute abrasive, etc. hot sawdust. The caustic solution should SCOTXY. be prepared in a tank provided with a steam ceil and should test with Baumes' Cleaning* Fluid for Fine Fabrics hydrometer at anywhere between 20 and This cleaning fluid may not be of much 30. The length of time an article should use in the shop, but if some machinist remain in the caustic solution is a matter should get the machine shop grime on his of judgment. The solution should attack "Sunday-go-to-meeting" trousers, he will the aluminum rapidly, and upon removing find it useful for cleaning out the spots ; it the article from the solution, the solution works like magic : Sulphuric ether, three should boil furiously on the metal. After drams ; alcohol, six drams ; chloroform, three washing, the articles should show a very drams gasoline, quart. The mixture ; one can black color, which turns to a silvery white be used safely for cleaning the most deli- finish upon dipping in the nitric acid. The cate fabrics, but being highly inflammable, best temperature for the caustic solution it must be used with caution around fires is at 200 degrees F., just below the boiling and open lights. M. E. Canek. point. By the use of a steam coil the solution can be kept at an even temperature, and the strength of the solution can To Prepare Tripoli or Emery Cake be adding small quantities maintained by Tripoli, emery cake and crocus are all time of caustic from to time. The tem- made in practically the same manner, the of the solution are perature and strength change being made in the composition when very important. it is desired to have the composition more The principal point to bear in mind in greasy. Melt tallow and parafflne wax or washing and drying is to dry without beeswax together. Beeswax is by far the streaks, which is accomplished if the saw- best, but the cost of the same has led to dust contains no pitch or rosin. the use of paraffine, which in many cases This finish can be improved by scratch- will work equally as well. After the tallow brushing the article before dipping or by and wax are thoroughly melted, add tripoll first dipping in the solutions then two and or emery, whichever is to be made, a little scratch-brushing and afterward dipping at a time and stir in well until it is as again. The scratch-brushing destroys the thick as is possible to make it ; then pour of grain the metal and reduces the possi- out into a large tin, or better still, into bility of the article drying with streaks. the molds made for the purpose, and allow Bridgeport, Conn. S. H. Sweet. to cool. J. L. Lucas. Bridgeport, Conn.

To Prepare Fine Abrasive Quickly To quickly prepare fine abrasive use To Mix Ziampblack and Shellac FFF emery or "15-minute" carborundum Mixing lampblack and shellac is not so with benzine or naphtha for a liquid, mix- simple a matter as it appears, as many an ing them in a square bottle. Use about amateur and novice has found out. The two ounces of the abrasive to one quart of tendency is to form lumps, when the two

liquid ; shake well and then lay the bottle are mixed by throwing or even sifting the flat on its side for the number of minutes former into the latter. The lumps of course needed to settle ; then pull the cork and can be reduced and an intimate mixture let the liquid flow out until level with the obtained by considerable patience with a cork hole bottom. The liquid just drawn paddle or pestle. The whole difficulty is off can be used at once with a brush, but easily avoided if the lampblack is first wet by allowing it to stand for a time, the top with alcohol and throughly worked down portion can be poured off, leaving the into a soft paste with a paddle or spatula. abrasive with a little benzine which will The black paste is then added to the shellac evaporate quickly, and leave the clear and mixed uniformly by stirring. The re- powder. sult is a smooth flowing and working In explanation of the term "15-minute" shellac. Other pigments can be treated in carborundum, would say that this Is a the same way. O. M. B. 58 SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS

Cast Iron Brazing joint to a good bright red before applying The ingredients for this cast iron brazing the flux. Then apply it liberally with an may be had at any first-class drug store iron rod, flattened on the end, and work and should cost no more than about 50 along the fracture, gradually raising the cents. They consist of 1 pound of boric heat to almost a white heat. Then shut acid, 4 ounces pulverized chlorate potash, off the heat and allow the casting to cool and 3 ounces carbonate of iron. These in- slowly. If this work is done carefully, the gredients should be thoroughly mixed, and joint will be as strong or stronger than the kept perfectly dry (a glass jar or bottle original casting.

answering the purpose), and when wanted Another formula is : 1 pound of boric for use, a small amount should be taken acid, 3 ounces of caustic soda, and 3 ounces and mixed with grain spelter. In trying of carbonate of iron. This is mixed with this brazing for the first time, take a piece spelter in the same way as in the first of cast iron of say one square inch cross- formula, and must also be kept dry. The section, hold the broken parts together by main points to keep in mind when brazing clamps, and fit the break closely in order cast iron are to have the metal clean and to form a strong joint. Use a gas forge if

free from grease ; not to apply the fiux until possible, but an ordinary blacksmith's forge a bright red is reached and then to will do if no gas forge is available. When be sure a blacksmith's forge is used, use charcoal, to raise the heat high enough to make the and be sure to get a high heat. When the mixture flow nicely. Ethan Viall. pieces of the casting are in place, heat the Decatur, III.

ANTIDOTES FOR POISONS

Antidote for Nitrate of Silver water, and finally about four ounces of In case of poisoning by nitrate of silver castor oil. take lai'ge doses of salt dissolved in water, after which take one teaspoonful of mus- Antidote for Frussic Acid and its Salts tard flour in warm water. In case of poisoning by prussic acid and its salts, cyanide, sulpho-cyanides and Antidotes for Compounds of Arsenic nitro-benzine, apply continuous and heavy douches of ice cold water on head and In cases of poisoning by compounds of spinal column, mustard plasters on the arsenic take a teaspoonful of mustard flour stomach and soles of the feet, and prevent in warm water, then plenty of oil or milk sleep. or linseed tea.

Antidote for Etlier Iiead Poisoning*

When vapors of ether are inhaled, the Lead poisoning is indicated bv constric- effect is similar to that of chloroform. tion in the throat and stomach, crampy Cases of this kind should be treated by cold pains, and blue lines around the gums. As effusions and artificial respiration. an antidote take sulphate of soda or magnesia or a teaspoonful of mustard flour in warm water, and strong solutions of Epsom Antidotes for Ammonia Acid, etc. salts in cold water. In a case of poisoning by ammonia, soda potash, alkaline, silicate and sulphates, take strong vinegar with water, large doses of Antidotes for Acids oil or large doses of milk. Vapor of ammonia may cause inflammation of the lungs. In a case of poisoning by carbonic, sulphuric, nitric, muriatic, nitro-muriatic or phosphoric acids, take the white of an egg Antidote for Oxalic Acid well beaten up with water or a teaspoonful In case of poisoning by oxalic acid, and of mustard flour in a cup of hot water. its salts, take very thick paste of lime and In the case of sulphuric, nitric, muriatic water by large spoonfuls at a time. After or nitro-muriatic acids, a dose of very several doses take large drafts of lime thick lime water acts as an antidote. INDEX

Abrasive, To Prepare Fine 57 Bronzing Fluid for Steel 28 Acid-proof Cement Ifi Bronzing Powder, Silver White 32 Acids for Etching IT Brown and Blue Colors on Steel, Pro- Alcoliol-proof Cement 15 ducing 26 Alloy for Filling Holes in Cast Iron 9 Brown-prints, Methods of Treating. ... 4 Alloys for Drawing Colors on Steel 21 Burns, Artificial Skin for 50 41 Alloys, Miscellaneous Case-harden for Colors 23 Turning 42 Aluminum, Lubricant for Case-hardening 22 Finish on 57 Aluminum, Satin Case-hardening Cast Iron 24 37 Aluminum Solder Case-hardening, Local 23 Metals, Soldering. . . 38 Aluminum to Other Case-hardening, To Imitate 30 Annealing Cast Iron for Drilling 24 Cast Iron Brazing. . . .- 58 High-speed Steel 21 Annealing Cast Iron, Filling for 8 Annealing Iron Castings 25 Cast Iron, Lubricant for Tapping Holes Annealing Steel and Other Metals 23 in 42 for Poisons 58 Antidotes Cast Iron, Methods for Chilling, Soften- Anti-friction Metal 41 ing, Case-hardening, etc 24 Lamp Carbons, Cement for 16 Arc Cast Iron Patterns, Varnish for 47 Asbestos or Other Fabrics to Iron, To Cast Iron, Producing Unchanging Gloss 12 Glue on 25 Babbitt Metal or Lead from Exploding, Cast Iron, Tinning 29 To Prevent 52 Cast Iron, To Scale 56 Babbitting Cross-heads 55 Celluloid, To Write on 7 Bearings, Lubricants for 41 Cement for Switchboard Repair 15 Belt and Rope Dressings 45 Cement, Water- and Oil-proof 9 Belt Cements 12 Cements for Attaching Cloth, Emery,

Belts and Leather, Investigating Adul- etc., to Iron , 11 terations in 55 Cements for Attaching Glass and Mar- Bicycle Tire Anti-leak 53 ble to Metals 14 Black Color on Steel, Producing 27 Cements for Belts 12 Blacking Brass 31 Cements for Cast Iron 8 Blue and Brown Colors on Steel, Pro- Cements for Gluing Emery, Metals, etc., ducing 26 to Wood 15 Blue-print Paper, Solutions for Prepar- Cements for Leather, and Leather and ing 4 Metals 12 Blue-prmt Writing Fluids 3 Cements for Metals 7 Blue-prints, Methods of Treating 4 Cements for Miscellaneous Purposes... 15 Blue-prints, Retouching 4 Cements for Pipe Joints 10 Blue-prints, Varnish for 47 Chalk Preparation for Tracings 7 Blue-prints, Waterproofing 5 Chilling Cast Iron 24 Bluing Brass 31 Clays and Clay Substitutes 46

Boiler Furnace, Emergency Repairs of . . 46 Cleaning Compounds 50 Boilers and Steam Pipes, Insulating Cleaning Fluid for Fine Fabrics 57

Covering for 54 Cloth to Iron, Cement for Attaching. . 11 Borax, Pulverizing 53 Coated Surfaces on Bi'ass, Bronze, Cop- Brass Castings 30 per, Zinc and Tin, Producing 31 Brass, Nickel and Steel, Polishing 25 Coating Processes for Iron and Steel, Brass or Copper on Iron, Producing Miscellaneous 29 Coatings of 28 Coatings of Copper or Brass on Iron ... 28 Brass, Producing Coatings on 31 Color on Steel, Producing Black 27 Brazing, Cast Iron 58 Colors on Steel, Producing Blue and Brazing Steel and Iron Without Heat.. 56 Brown 20 Brazing, Use of Brass Wire in 53 Copper Brass for Laying-out Work.... 32 Bronze, Bright Dip for 32 Copper, Bright Dip for 32 Bronze Castings, Acid Dip for 33 Copper Coating on Brass for Laying Bronze Finish for Yellow Brass 35 Out Work 31 Bronze, Recoloring 33 Copper, Etching on 17 .

60 INDEX

Copper, Lubricant for Turning 43 Hardening Bath 20 Copper or Brass on Iron, Producing Hardening Cast Iron 24 Coatings of 28 Hardening High-speed Steel 22 Copper Plating Cast Iron 29 Inks for Blue-prints, Colored 3 Copper to Aluminum, Soldering 38 Jewelry, Silverware, etc., To Clean.... 56 Copper, To Anneal Finished 23 Copper Wires, Soldering Paste for.... 38 Lacquer for Brass 34 Copper with Tin, To Coat Brass or.... 32 Lacquers and Enamels for Steel 28 Cores, Making Wax Tapers for 56 Lampblack and Shellac, To Mix 57 Lathe Center Lubricants Cork, To nut 54 41 Lead or Babbitt Exploding, Court Plaster, Liquid 52 Metal from Cross-heads, To Babbitt 55 To Prevent 52 Lead Sticking to Work. To Prevent Hot 20 Die Sinkers' Impression Wax 56 Lead, To Prevent the Sticking of Hot. 19 Dies, Lubricant for Drawing 45 Lead, To Test White 54 Dies, To Harden Fine 19 Leather and Belts, Investigating Adul- Disinfectants 50 terations in 55 Leather, and Leather and Metals, Ce- Drafting-room Receipts, Miscellaneous.. 6 ments for 12 Drawing Titles from Rubbing Off, To Leather, To waterproof 45 Prevent 7 Lubricants for Bearings, Lathe Cen- Drawings, To Remove Grease Stains ters, etc 41 from 7 Lubricants for Machining or Working Drawings, Varnish for 47 Metals 42 Drilling Compound 43 Drills for Cutting Glass, To Harden 18 Marble and Glass to Metals, Cements for Attaching 14 Handles, etc 49 Ebonizing Wood Marking Polished Steel 52 Silver Solution for 32 Electro-plating, Mercury, To Remove Grease or Dirt Prepare 57 Emery Cake or Tripoli, To from 55 for Attaching. . 11 Emery to Iron, Cement Metal, To Write on Bright 53 28 Enamels and Lacquers for Steel Miscellaneous Useful Receipts 52 17 Etching Fluids Molding Mixture for Rubber Stamps 50 Eye Washes and Patterns 55 Files, To R'ecut Old 50 Molds for Brass Work, Dusting for. ... 31 Filling for Cast Iron 8 Mottled Case-hardened Articles 22 Fire and Waterproofing Receipts 45 Nickel Coatings on Metal Surfaces, Pro- Fire Clay 46 ducing Black 34 Flux for Brass Castings 31 Nickel, Steel and Brass, Polishing 25 for 46 Forges, Clay Mixture Oil for Delicate Machinery 41 53 Forgings, Pickling for Oil for Micrometer Screws 42 31 Frosting Brass Work Oil, Preservative 37 Galvanized Wire, To Test 54 Oilstones, To Mend Broken 55 Gas Engine Cylinders, Packing for 54 Packing for Gas Engine Cylinders and Gasoline Pumps, Packing for. 55 Pipes Carrying Gasoline Vapor 54 Glass and Marble to Metals, Cements for Packing for Gasoline Pumps 55 Attaching 14 Paint from Machinery, To remove 53 Glass, To Dissolve 52 Paints and Whitewashes 48 Glass, To Write on 53 Paper Labels to Iron and Steel, To Glass Tubes, To Cut off 53 fasten 11 13 Glue for Leather Belts Pattern-making, Plaster of Paris for. . . 49 Glued Joints, To waterproof 16 Pickling Brass Castings 30 Glues and Their Preparation 16 Pickling for Forgings 53 Glycerine-litharge Cement 16 Pipe Joints, Cements for 10 Solder 39 Gold , Plaster of Paris 49 Gold Solders 40 Poisons, Antidotes for 58 Grease for Gear Wheels 42 Polishing and Finishing Wood 49 Grinder Disks, Cement for 11 Polishing Brass, Nickel and Steel 25 Gun Barrels, To Blue 27 Portland-tar Cement 16 Gun-metal Finish 35 Pulleys with Rubber, To cover 12 Finish Wooden 49 Gun Stocks To Razors, Strop Paste for 52 Hands, To Prevent Chapping of 50 Rope and Belt Dressings 45 Hardening and Tempering Carbon Steel 18 Rubber Goods, Cement for 15 INDEX 61

Rubber Stamps and Patterns, Molding Thread Cutting, Lubricant for 43 Mixture for 55 Time-clock Ribbons, Re-inking 54 Rubber, To cover Iron Pulleys with.... 12 Tin for Laying out, To blacken 33 Rubber to Iron or other Metals, Cement Tin, To coat Brass or Copper with.... 32 for Attaching 12 Tinning Cast Iron 29 Rubber, To punch Hard 54 Tinning Process for Use on Iron, Brass Rubber to Wood, To fasten 15 or Steel 30 Rust Joint 8 Tinning Wash for Brass Work 31 Rust Removers and Preventatives 3G Tracing Cloth for Inking, Method of Preparing 7 Salves 50 Tracings, Chalk Preparation for 7 Screws from Getting Rusty, To Prevent 3G Tracings, To clean 6 Shellac and Lampblack, To Mix 57 Tripoli or Emery Cake, To prepare.... 57 Shellac Cement 15 Turpentine for Wounds, Use of 50 Shellac Varnish, To clarify 47 Shellac Varnish, To improve the Color Vandyke Prints more Transparent, To of 48 make 4 Silver Paste for Brass 35 Varnishes 47 Silver Solder for Brazing 40 Silver Solution for Electro-plating. ... 32 Washing Shop Windows 56 Silverware, etc., To Clean 56 Waste, Washing Oily 55 Solders and Soldering Acids 37 Water Pipe Joints, Cement for High- Springs, Mixture for Hardening Spiral. 19 pressure 11 Springs, To Temper Small Coil 20 Water Pipes, Cement for 10 Steam Pipe Cement 10 Waterproof Cement 9 Steam Pipes and Boilers, Insulating Waterproof Cements 16 Covering for 54 Waterproof Marking Paint for Stone... 49 Steel, xlcid Test for Iron or 52 Waterproof Paint for Plaster 48 Steel and Iron without Heat, To braze 56 Waterproofing Blue-prints 5 Steel and other Metals, Annealing 23 Waterproofing Glued Joints 16 Steel, Brass and Nickel, Polishing 25 Waterproofing Receipts 45 Steel, Bronzing Fluid for 28 Wax, Die Sinkers' Impression 56 Steel, Etching Fluid for 17 Wax Impressions. Making 56 Steel, Hardening and Tempering Carbon 18 Wax Tapers for Cores, Making 56 Steel, Heat Treatment of High-speed... 21 Welding Compound, Steel 53 Steel, Lacquers and Enamels for 28 Welding Spring Steel 53 Steel, Lubricants for Working Hard.... 42 White Lead, To Test 54 Steel, Marking Polished 52 Whitewashes and Paints 48 Steel, Miscellaneous Finishing and Coat- Windows, Washing Shop 56 ing Processes for Iron and 29 Wire, To test Galvanized 54 Steel, Producing Black Color on 27 Wood, Cements for Gluing Emery, Met- Steel, Producing Blue and Brown Colors als, etc.. To 15 on 26 Wood, Polishing and Finishing 49 Steel, To remove Rust from 36 Wood, To fireproof 46 Steel, To restore Burnt 54 Writing Fluids for Blue-prints 3 Steel, Varnish for 47 Steel Welding Compound 53 Zinc Black for Templet Work, To Coat. 32 Steel, Welding Spring 53 Zinc Dust Cement 8

Switchboard Repairs. Cement for 15 Zinc Paint for Oil Wells of Bearings. . . 48 Tempering Carbon Steel, Hardening and 18 Zinc, To anneal 24

8 1910

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