INTERNATIONAL

THE WORLD’S NEWSPAPER PUBLISHED BY MONT BLANC EDITED IN COURMAYEUR AND PRINTED IN MORGEX January 2005

A Monster Monster interviews until I tried it. The Monster is packed with Mark Twight value, which is unusual in this day and age; we often pay top dollar for performance is born! worth a few percentage points. Then a new a process or product shatters the paradigm Future alpine historians will have to declare and we all begin thinking differently. A fair a winner in the competition between price is not inconsistent with top performance. techniques and the tools that make them possible: though probably there’ll never be What are Monster’s limitations? a winner as it’s a never ending story. I think those found in our heads. Seriously, while its pure ice performance cannot match Following on from what was essentially a Taa-K-Oon or Racing Wing the Monster is ‘long stick’ that Paccard and Balmat used to a fantastic all-around tool, especially for conquer Mont Blanc on the 8th August 1786 beginning and intermediate climbers that progress and changes have followed one after want to break into the dry-tooling game. Due another. to the huge variety of positions made possible Every now and then the rule of the game has by Monster’s shaft configuration climbing been upset by a revolution: teeth on the blade, on a Montser is like climbing on handholds banana blades, light alloy shafts, shafts with Mark Twight that occur naturally, except the holds are all sorts of curves, ergonomic grips… What’s a Monster? portable. At first I wasn’t sure. It’s not because I’m The most recent revolution, the Monster, an American climber rather because I am So Monster is not just for elite climbers... comes to the light in 2004. skeptical of new ideas (and with Grivel that Absolutely not. The future of any sport lies Experts in competition climbing, , means ideas that are WAY ahead of their in its rejuvenation by new, and sometimes, extreme dry tooling, total dry will time). When I first saw leashless tools I young climbers. A fresh attitude is essential. immediately recognise the Monster for what thought it was the most ridiculous concept Monster breaks the economic barrier that it is, not a new , but the most efficient ever – now I go everywhere without leashes. many young climbers found between them extension of their own arm for hooking on After a few weeks of living with it I decided and ice/. Two for the price the most difficult terrains. that the Monster is another step along the of one is a strong argument. On the other The shaft has multiple grips for traction, climber’s evolutionary path. It can be an hand, some top climbers have found that introduction, an extension, a prosthetic to Monster has changed the way they climb - swings, hand swap-overs, new positions and compensate for weak fingers, and a bridge - for the better. interpretations: all power to imagination! to the future for those who can see it. Forged pick with teeth at all angles, straight, Is there anything dangerous about inverse, into holes, onto the tiniest holds. What the heck do I do with it? Monster? Modern design and new-style graphics make Climbing, first of all and after that … well, Only that Monster will create new the Monster unique, plus the multiple it is up to you. Monster is specifically for expectations, both for equipment and presentations letting everybody choose dry-tooling but many climbers here have performance. according to their own personal inspiration. found it quite acceptable to climb ice as well And, a last final bit of news, Grivel’s years -- thankfully because many “mixed” routes If Monster existed ten years ago would end on ice features. I wouldn’t take them in history have been changed? of experience and huge technological capacity the mountains but someone crazy might. The I don’t think so. If we saw Monster in the mean that the price is cut to half that of a best thing about Monster for many is that mid-1990s I think it would have been ignored modern technical ice axe. As an advertising they do not have to trash their finely tuned because no one’s mind was prepared. Even campaign could say: two for the price of one! tools just to get a good workout leashless climbing – while practiced by a on rock. few visionaries in that era – took until 2000 For that price I’d expect the tool to perform to “catch on.” A Monster in 1995 would have poorly been like a mountain bike in 1985: too far The Buzz And the skeptic in me said the same thing, ahead of its time. And what about the climbers? Surrounding Manu Ibarra It’s a tool that appeals; for its “new look”, Monster for its surprising name and its price! WHY a FLEXIBLE SHAFT? for torqueing in cracks or horizontal breaks; SNAKE OR PANTHER? TO EACH HIS The climbers said “At long last a company The shaft is cut from a flat piece of steel, the aim must be to minimize the force in the OWN that realises that price is important for its similar in composition to that used to shaft to eliminate the multiplying of force Modern design and new-style graphics make clients” manufacture automotive leaf springs and by the principle of levers. You do this by the Monster unique, plus the multiple heat-treated to obtain properties consistent sliding your hand further up towards the presentations letting everybody choose Who’s buying the Monster? with the demands of dry-tooling (torqueing, head/pick. according to their own personal inspiration. All sorts of people: young climbers who use stein-pulling, etc). This produces a tool that No more the same tool for everybody: to it for dry tooling, older alpinists who already is not as damp as one made from a 7000- HEAD OR PICK ? each his own. have a pair of classical ice axes for “piolet series alloy tube so it will vibrate more if Blade and head have become one - the natural New patterns and designs are constantly traction” and now want to try ice falls leash swung into hard ice but it has a lot of extension of the head without any difference being developed. free, mountain guides for their clients to learn different advantages, in fact with Monster in thickness. This means a tool with greater All this might not help in improving climbing ice techniques as well as amateur climbers we’ve solved one of climbing in dry tooling’s flexibility that can penetrate between ice technique but it will certainly be more Manu Ibarra who only get a couple of days of ice climbing problems: the rigidity of traditional ice axe columns, into the most difficult holes, in any enjoyable and will develop the “fun” side of What’s the reaction been to Monster in a year. shafts. sort of structure whether in rock or naturally climbing. the shops? formed or re-frozen ice. The Monster has been the “in” product for In conclusion? The same can be said for the rear of the head, the 2004/05 winter season, even in those The Monster is a “high profile” product that no adze or hammer, allowing greater freedom TWO FOR THE PRICE OF ONE ! shops that don’t usually stock ice climbing as it fills an evident gap in the market doesn’t in using the tool backwards to embed it in Grivel is the world’s older ice axe tools. need to be justified at all. cracks. manufacturer: 1818 is a long time ago. The continued on p. 2 To address these issues Grivel made the saying goes that you have to know where Monster’s pick thicker than any pick on any you come from to know where you’re going: ice climbing tool. While anyone can break we’ve known it for years. a pick if they set out to do so, we suspect We’ve developed experience in design, that the Monster’s pick will be the most manufacturing techniques, sourcing materials, CE or not CE? difficult to break of all. Consistent with the organising production and world wide technique used to manufacture most of the distribution, we’re the most “globalised” We think that Monster should not be the customer and in consequence our steel components of Grivel ice axes and ice company in the sector. This shouldn’t mean considered an ice axe for the following engagement was to cooperate with the official tools, the Monster’s integrated head and pick just offering good products but above all to reasons: body that gives the CE certification, the are hot forged from Chro-Moly steel. Hot figure out new trends and our clients 1)No adze to cut steps German TÜV, to develop the rules, and we forging is the best method of redistributing requirements. These are not just technical 2) No hammer to pound are proud to announce that in December 14th steel to reinforce areas of the pick where the requirements but also financial and economic 3) No spike at the end of the shaft to drive 2004 Monster received CE certification as greatest stress occurs, and removing it from ones. the tool into the snow or in the ice in the Personal Protective Equipment according to areas that receive less stress or must be thin Take all the above, mix it together with “cane” position Norm 89/686EEC (PPE). to improve penetration. important investments and our passion for 4) The pick is not designed for cutting steps The user is assured that Monster is strong the business and you’ll see why we’ve 5) The flat shaft cannot be used as a belay enough to use (not to over use or miss use) WHY MULTIPLE GRIPS? managed to come up with the most advanced in the snow (T-slot or picket) because in any situation. Ezio Marlier The shaft has multiple grips for traction, and modern product sold at the most its shape easily slices through the snow when A rigid shaft allows you only the tractions swings, hand swap-overs, new positions and interesting price on the market – at least half loaded along its narrowest cross section. along the tool’s axes, limiting its potential interpretations: all power to imagination! of the prices available up until now. to hook up and consequently limiting Multiple grips are necessary for the hand At long last everybody, including younger The intent of the Monster is to answer the climbing technique. On the other hand a swap-overs that have become one of the climbers, can use tools created for mixed demand of climbers that had finally seen the flexible shaft allows the application of main features of leashless climbing. modern, dry tooling and leashless. folly of bending and breaking high traction not just along the tool’s axis, There are 2 reasons why: it gives one arm a performance ice climbing tools on difficult improving hooking up in cracks. rest, and lengthens potential hooks. mixed routes where dry-tooling terrain When changing hands it has always been comprised a significant component of the That’s not all though: the shaft works like a important not to lose the direction of traction route. Think of it as a hook for : spring, reducing the strength and effort that maintains the axe in the right position. a piece that allows upward progression but News News is not expected to arrest a fall. needed to hold and grip the ice axe, as the Monster has an innovative solution which Great changes, including revolutions, spring back effect maintains the blade’s bite maintains the direction of traction and doesn’t Because the Monster is a tool designed for whilst increasing the limits of possibility upward progression, and not intended to in the rock, just like a car’s suspension keeps risk the tool loses its point of equilibrium. can also cause problem: the need to adapt the vehicle anchored to the ground. The second hand grips the vertical part of become part of the safety chain it need not to new techniques. to be submitted to the traditional CE test as The elastic effect can also be used to amplify the shaft just above the lower grip, with the The new prospects created by Monster’s the dynamic movements. index finger resting on the “notch” of the an ice axe because it was not designed as unique features will necessarily breed such, but our competitors criticised the tool vertical section. In this way the pull maintains new opportunities. It isn’t a remake of a Giving yourself a bit of time and practice the direction of traction almost perfectly - for lacking CE certification. traditional tool but a whole new The real question is whether or not a more you’ll discover that this shaft, initially rather better than any other tool on the market. dimension that demands new techniques strange to use, has lots of advantages. The This grip can be made more comfortable by modern standard (supported by appropriate and allows new movements – enjoy tests) should be developed to address the shaft and head/pick’s solidity is guaranteed using the yellow handles supplied yourself discovering them. by strict CE norms testing but they are with Monster; the application of a Grivel radical developments in ice and dry tools. obviously vulnerable to damage when used Trigger could improve further support. Grivel believes this necessary and good for for more infos about MONSTER: www.grivel.com International Monster Tribune GRIVEL MONT BLANC Send us your MONSTER comments/photos - www.grivel.com

continued Monster interviews like , with the moves and Stevie Haston positions you normally associate with climbing overhangs. Do you want to become a dry tooler? Can beginners use them? Everybody should benefit from a pair of We’ve discussed where and how but dry Monsters, from beginner to expert. If you tooling cliffs, just like normal rock, aren’t have never tried modern mixed or dry tooling chosen randomly. The best route must be it's surprising how fast you will progress. picked out by experts and then… made safe.

Why leashless? Generally the unwritten rules (there’s no Well, in the last ten years it has been found formal legislation) that govern the game in that it is less difficult and a more aesthetic this field are the same as normal sport rock Stevie Haston way to climb. Its also much more climbing, with a few variations that we’ll What are Monsters? understandable and natural for ordinary see further on. The route must be bolted Hopefully they are the future and a source climbers which means they progress quickly. using stainless steel of least 10mm diameter of enjoyment for many new mixed climbers. and possibly with a resin ROOT, even though What are their limitations? most of the sites are equipped with normal They are a user friendly mixed climbing tool, If you use them properly in their chosen 10mm fixes. which Grivel offer at a non scary price. environment, they are as good as the most The following rules are especially for dry expensive tools on the market. They are not tooling, some obvious and others less so: Two for the price of one how is that designed for ice climbing. They are not • Dry tooling routes must be bolted during possible? specifically designed for any kind of the winter, possibly when the ice is Well they are not intended for all round use and obviously their lack of a hammer or adze “stabilized” into its definitive form. Only but mainly so that people can try good quality render them of no use on traditional alpine a route in the summer if you know it routes without mortgaging their house and terrain. Having said that in the right hands really well or have a decent photo of the cliff having fun climbing. Monsters are Grivel’s on a steep overhanging mixed climb you will in the winter (obviously this lets you work attempt at opening up mixed climbing, be able to do any route that exists. in warmer weather but there’s the risk that the winter ice will covers the spits). making it less elitist, accessible to more • If you think it’s feasible to bolt the cliff top climbers who in the past were put off because Your personal opinion of Monsters? downwards make sure that access to the of the price. I wish I had them ten years ago. Monsters REST chains is safe, maybe placing fixed because of their special price and ease of use . Never work with people below you. How good are they? should open the sport up to thousands more • During your first reconnaissance climb Well the reviews we have are excellent about enthusiasts, new champions and experts will dislodge any loose rock and columns or ice the rapport quality /price and their usability. be created and more importantly many new crust that could hurt any belayers during use. The climber’s ability to hang from this tool cliffs will be explored and great climbs will • Bolt the first 5 metres really carefully is easily understood and so is its hooking surely be found. If you are not sure that looking for the easiest lines (don’t dig!). The ability. In the past it took a very strong Monsters are for you, consult the Grivel first part of any dry tooling route is risky, climber to do the hard routes and now with catalogue or Web site, Grivel have the most not just for the climber (like ) the Monster many more are able to do them. comprehensive range of equipment there is. but also for the belayer below. Any fall from This for me translates to more fun, it’s more the first two spits will land the climber and his and ice axes onto anybody 13. Heavy (Roberto) below. Anna Torretta 14. Precise (Simone) • Be very careful about corners, especially 15. Monstrous (Anna) Monstrous interview: 16. Horrible (Simone) where rock changes to ice. Place protection 17. Slim and seductive (Max) so that the ropes can run easily without 18. Sexy (Giorgio) becoming fouled up- 19. Young (Edoardo) • It is impossible to guess where a tool is 20. Cheerful (Cinzia) going to land if you lose it on a hold whilst 21. Colourful (Ruggero) falling. Try to place the spits so that along a different line compared to the line of Would you buy one? progression. 1. I think I will (Luca) 2. No (Giovanna) How to hang out at the bottom of a dry or 3. Yes, due to the price total dry cliff. 4. No, I do IV on ice falls, I don’t need it (Massimiliano You can’t allow yourself to relax like below Anna Torretta 5. Can you really see me hanging onto those things? (Nicolò) a sport climbing cliff. The more climbers Monster, tool, 49cms long, 670 grams 6. I think so, I’ve heard great things (Camilla) there are the more careful you have to be in Does it bite? No, just the ice (Riky) 7. I’d buy one straight away! (Sabrina) choosing your position. 8. Not buy one but if someone was giving it What’s the first word that comes to mind away… (Andrea) • Try to use or bolt cliffs that are slightly looking at “MONSTER” overhanging. Belay the climber from as near What does it make you feel? to the cliff as you can get in order to miss 1. Ugly (Luigi) 1. It gives me the creeps, I’d be scared of any falling ice axes. 2. Strange (Enzo) hurting myself (Gigi) • Always wear a helmet. 3. Particular (Andrea) 2. Aggressive, I want to do the M10 this • Make your “base ) in an area away 4. Beautiful (Anna) year! (Davide) not just from the climbers but also from any 5. Cool (Simon) 3. It’s a great looking tool, almost a gadget potential falls of ice or rocks from the cliff. 6. How do you use it? (Monica) (Monica) 7. Has it been run over by a truck?(Luca) 4. I don’t know… (Salvatore) • Dress with several layers: a dry tooling 8. What is it? (Roby) Have you tried it? route takes longer than the same length 9. What an object, I want to hang it up in 1. No (Beppe) climbing, also belaying is a longer job too. my sitting room! (Enzo) 2. Not yet (Paolo) 10. Extraordinary (Alex) 3. I’ve seen it in a shop window (Daniele) 11. Light (Giovanni) 4. Yes and it’s brilliant (Mauro) 12. Economical! (Enzo) With a solid place to stand and a lever a human being is capable of moving the world. Tips and Tricks 1. Monster is not an ice axe but a climbing tool 6. When you jam the blade into a crack hold and is made for progression and it does not the shaft as close as possible to the head to With the Monster come two “Hand In order to maintain provide safety against falls from height. This diminish leverage which of course can deform Protectors” plastic handles which can be the direction of tool is designed for climbers who know how the blade and shaft. placed on the shaft with rubber tape to make traction and to to use them, and recognise the situations 7. The diagrams show some but not all of the the handle more comfortable. These protectors are also sold separately avoid the risk of appropriate for their use. possibilities of using the Monster. loosing the point of 2. Monster is not an ice axe and must not be 8. If you use the tools one attached to the other equilibrium, the used for belaying on snow or ice because the to create seats or to hook your crampons on, second hand grips shaft doesn’t offer enough resistance against you are in the domain of aid climbing. Be the snow. careful not to use these aid climbing techniques the vertical part of 3. The bolts which fix the blade are made to be on routes declared free climbs. the shaft just above immovable, they are not for unscrewing. 9. Do not use the Monster to climb on establish the lower grip 4. The hole at the end of the shaft is not for rock climbing routes. Please be responsible for with the index belaying but simply if you wish to attach a cord your actions, climbing safely and using the finger resting so that you don’t loose the Monster when doing tools correctly, to limit both the damage to rock on the “notch” complex tricks. and to the tools. . of the vertical 5. With the Monster come two plastic handles 10. Always wear a helmet; outside take care of section. which can be placed on the shaft with rubber falling ice and rock, inside take care of your A Trigger can be also mounted on Monster grip can be tape to make the handle more comfortable. friends. It can be regulated at any point and distributes made more These are also sold separately. the weight over the fingers. comfortable by using the yellow plastic handles supplied with - Morgex Monster. The application of a Grivel Trigger Tipografia Marcoz Another idea is to use the Slider if mounted could improve it allows you to regulate the size of the handle. further support. - La Salle STAMPA: Jeco Design GRAFICA: