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$2.99 VOLUME 69, Number 19 May 3–9, 2013 The Voice of the Industry for 68 years EU Duty Triples U.S. Women’s Denim Pants By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor

Los Angeles denim manufacturers were caught off-guard by a quickly enacted European Union decision that tripled the duty on women’s jeans made in the . As of May 1, all U.S.-made women’s denim pants im- ported into the EU had their duty raised from 12 percent to 38 percent. Already, denim makers, who account for 75 percent of all the premium-denim blue jeans made in this country, were contemplating moving production to Mexico or Turkey. Mexico has had a free-trade agreement with the EU since 2000. Others were trying to figure out loopholes that could avoid the high import tax, which will make shoppers think twice about paying more than $250 to $300 for a pair of jeans that would have normally sold for $200 to $250. ➥ EU page 3

eco notes Volcom Aims to Cut 25 Percent of Carbon Footprint by 2016

By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Its motto is “Youth Against Establishment,” but Orange County, Calif.–based skate/lifestyle brand Volcom will lay a claim to be among the most solid environmental citizens in the world. Last month, Volcom announced that it would produce an environmental profit and loss audit. It will be one of the few companies that quantifies how much the production of its popular clothes costs the environment. Once the EP&L statement is complete—possibly by the end of the year—Volcom will judge how it can cut the company’s carbon emissions, waste and water usage by 25 percent by 2016. “Our goal is to make sustainability part of our DNA,” said Derek Sabori, Volcom’s senior director of sustain-

➥ Volcom page 8

Inside: Woodbury’s Where fashion gets down to business SM

7 8 Double Vision Kohl’s to open IT office in N. Calif. ... p. 2 Acne coming to downtown LA ... p. 2 Woodbury University’s annual fashion gala, held April 27 at the Natural History Denim Report ... p. 3 Museum in Los Angeles, was one of two runway shows the design school hosted this Mel Matsui: A Remembrance ... p. 6 season to celebrate its students’ work. For more from the show, see page 9. Denim Resources ... p. 9 www.apparelnews.net DDR F&M P r o d uctions an Jonathan Robe ts Photog a p hy

01,3,8.cover.indd 1 5/2/13 7:14:33 PM news Acne to Open Flagship in Downtown LA Downtown Los Angeles contemporary Downtown Los Angeles was not on Ac- ists building, an ornate edifice that opened retail received a big vote of confidence ne’s radar previously, said Mikael Schiller, in 1927. The Ace enjoys an avid following when prominent Swedish contemporary la- executive chairman of Acne Studios. “It from wealthy, hip and culturally attuned bel Acne Studios confirmed that it would wasn’t our original intention to open in this people who stay at its other locations in Se- open a 5,000-square-foot boutique near Los part of Los Angeles, but we fell in love with attle; New York; Portland, Ore.; and Palm Angeles’ fashion district. the Eastern Columbia building,” Schiller Springs, Calif. Acne is scheduled to open its Los Ange- said. “We feel that there is something vi- Property owners and retailers expect that les boutique in fall 2013 at the distinctive, brant and interesting going on in downtown the Ace will attract a steady stream of new art deco Eastern Columbia building at the LA, and we wanted to be part of this trans- tourists to downtown, said Steve Hirsh of corner of Broadway and East Ninth Street. formation.” the Cooper Design Space showroom build- The boutique will carry men’s and women’s The Swedish label will open its flagship a ing, which is two blocks from Broadway and ready-to-wear and denim, along with bags, block north of the upcoming Ace Hotel. The Ninth. With more apartment buildings being accessories and . The boutique also highly anticipated hotel is scheduled to open constructed in downtown, retailers can ex- will feature a café. at the end of this year at the United Art- pect more consumers to support the neigh- borhood’s contemporary retailers, he said. Change has come quickly to the corner of Broadway and Ninth. Just 18 months ago, a square foot of commercial space cost $50 Kohl’s Launches Tech Office and there was little interest in the corner, said Brad Luster, president of Major Prop- erties in downtown LA. Recently, a square The Eastern Columbia building in Northern California foot of commercial space on Broadway has shot up to $125, Luster said. In order to deal with a growing online Kohl’s, a mid-tier retail chain, already “We’re seeing a lot of interest from bou- Outfitters has reportedly been scouting sales market, Kohl’s Corp. is launching a operates a design office in Santa Monica, tique and high-end users and retailers trying downtown Los Angeles locations, accord- new information-technology office in north- Calif. to get into the marketplace,” he said. Urban ing to sources.—Andrew Asch ern California. Kohl’s has been partnering with famous- The 52,000-square-foot office in Milpi- named designers and celebrities lately to offer tas will have more than 30 employees who a wide variety of labels not found in other loca- will be working as an extension of Kohl’s IT tions. It has an ongoing partnership with Vera team based in the company’s headquarters in Wang, the wedding-dress designer, for clothes P.J. Salvage Boutique Opens at Fred Segal Menomonee Falls, Wis. and accessories sold under her name and inked Casual chic will get even more space to showcase all of P.J. Salvage’s looks, which in- The northern California staff will be deals a few years ago with actress Jennifer stretch out at the high-profile Fred Segal com- clude categories such as sweaters, T-shirts and working to grow the department store’s Lopez and her ex-husband Marc Anthony for pound of boutiques in Santa Monica, Calif. sweat pants. omnichannel initiatives and accommodate lines that carry their names. On April 26, pajama, loungewear and life- “P.J. Savage has truly become a lifestyle Kohl’s online shopping site, which has been Kohl’s is on track this year to open 12 new style boutique Fred Segal Rocks & Silk Pres- brand with the introduction of items like growing at about 40 percent a year over the stores and remodel another 30. Revenues for ents P.J. Salvage debuted at 500 Broadway, sweaters, shirts, sweat pants and tops,” Burke last three years. In 2012, Kohl’s online sales the Wisconsin-based company last year to- near the compound’s Babakul boutique. The said. “We will be adding a few more categories were $1.4 billion, the company said. taled $19.3 billion.—Deborah Belgum P.J. Salvage store took a 775-square-foot space like intimates and home products in the near formerly occupied by Japanese brand Banner future.” Barrett. Expect more categories to be introduced, The new boutique is a collaboration be- such as intimates, he said. The store will stock tween P.J. Salvage, an Irvine, Calif.–- the company’s two lines, P.J. Salvage, which quartered pajama and loungewear brand that retails for $60 to $90, and PJ Luxe, which started in 1997, and Fred Segal Rocks & Silk generally retails for $10 more than the label’s boutique, which is owned by Joi Davis. The main line. venture is P.J. Salvage’s first boutique. Davis Although many P.J. Salvage customers wear has been selling P.J. Salvage at Rocks & Silk the company’s colorful styles with jeans and since 2009, and the brand represents 80 per- shorts during their daily routines, Davis said cent of the store’s sleepwear and loungewear she designed the boutique to like some- inventory. body’s bedroom. The back wall is covered in a Davis and P.J. Salvage owner Peter Burke textured wallpaper, and the space features vin- said the new boutique will not be entirely a pa- tage furniture such as night stands, armoires jama . Burke had been seeking a place to and dressers.—A.A. EdgeAX Says Its Apparel PLM Increases Profitability EdgeAX, a unit of Visionet Systems dent Rosetta Gyimesi. “The total cost of own- Inc., announced its new apparel product life ership is kept at a manageable level so that management (PLM). The PLM solution is organizations of all sizes can benefit from this embedded in MS Dynamics AX 2012 and next-generation collaborative PLM system.” designed to help companies increase product The PLM’s designer portals contain pow- innovation and maximize product profitabil- erful business instruments that provide fo- ity through its advanced integration tools, cused insights into product trends, process which help the supply-chain process. management, supplier performance, profit- The EdgeAX PLM team has been serving ability, cost optimization and product-line the apparel and retail industry for more than analysis. EdgeAX customers include apparel 15 years. “We have designed a tight footprint manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers. For for quicker and easier installs for our partners more information, visit www.edgeax.com. and customers,” said Executive Vice Presi- —Sarah Wolfson

Corrections and Clarifications

In an April 26 story on The Ameri- tourists compose 30 percent of The Ameri- cana at Brand, the location of the en- cana’s traffic. Tourists make up 30 percent trance of the upcoming Nordstrom was of traffic for The Grove, Americana’s sis- incorrectly stated. The store’s entrances ter property in Los Angeles. A company will be located on Brand Boulevard and spokesperson declined to give tourist traf- Caruso Avenue. fic numbers for The Americana but said it The article also incorrectly stated that is growing.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS May 3–9, 2013 apparelnews.net

02.news.indd 2 5/2/13 7:16:17 PM denim report Denim’s Four Megatrends for Fall/Winter 2014 From raw indigo to embroidered allover In contrast to Sentiment, another trend she said. The premium-denim market has be- ian brand. “There is a reworking in the fashion prints, the style and fit for denim is in con- story, “Quietude,” has a pared-back sensibil- come so essential that more men are becom- perspective where premium looks are coming stant flux. Amy Leverton, senior denim edi- ity in which minimalist details are paramount. ing familiar with selvage denim. Denim mills to the fore but are reworked with a more di- tor at Stylesight, recently outlined four key “Quietude is a sparse and serene story with are moving this trend forward by releasing rectional, fashion-forward handwriting,” Le- “megatrend” themes for Fall/Winter 2014, minimal branding and a no-nonsense tonal black-on-black selvage jeans for Fall/Winter verton said. including men’s and women’s trends in color, look. However, within that simplicity, sur- 2014. From a technical standpoint, technol- fit, construction and finish. face and texture continue to be key for denim In addition to Stylesight’s Fall/Winter 2014 ogy in the denim market is also driving new With an appreciation for opulence and vi- weave and construction,” Leverton said. themes, Leverton discussed other key innova- trends. “Digital print is being used as the new brant hues and a passion for fusing cultures, Tone-on-tone and subtle 3-D techniques tions in the denim industry. laundry and is a trend that many brands are “Sentiment” is a trend story are emerging, Leverton said, Premium denim continues to be impor- starting to pick up on. It is also better for the that lends itself to embroi- adding that Australian-based tant. “I have been tracking the raw premium- environment than multiple wash processes,” deries and is dense in color. brand Ksubi has several ex- denim market for many seasons, which is Leverton said. “Embellishments are not amples of the trend in the growing—especially in the menswear ,” “Laser laundry” is the most important going away; and more is current collection. “For Fall, she said. “selvage used to only be associated innovation in the laundry process, Lever- more in the Sentiment sto- Ksubi is offering a beautiful with serious ‘denimheads,’ but now there’s a ton said, describing a process that removes ry,” Leverton said. “Color collection that is very ahead large group of guys wearing Japanese selvage indigo from the denim surface using laser blocking, especially denim of its time, experimenting denim.” technology. “It can offer camouflage print, with fabric or leather in- with a silicone print on the For example, Missoni recently featured marble effects, a photo-realistic scene. ... serts, [is] key right now. reverse of the denim, giving premium rigid denim pieces in its latest col- The possibilities are endless,” she said. But leather is sleek and it a clean yet a 3-D surface lection, which is something new for the Ital- —Sarah Wolfson minimal; however, pairing that fits beautifully into the denim with jacquard knit Quietude story,” Leverton creates a new take on fab- said. ric blocking, creating win- “Rapture” is a trend story Guess Names New Chief Design Officer ter coziness, almost like a emerging for more-youthful ‘cabin-in-the-woods look.’ markets. “We explore a Guess? Inc. named Sharleen Ernster captures the emotions of the consumer.” For Fall and Winter 2014, youth-inspired story almost Lazear as the chief design officer for the Guess also hired a top merchandising ex- in particular, mixing up Amy Leverton every season,” Leverton Los Angeles–headquartered denim lifestyle ecutive recently. On April 12, Hillary Super knits, jacquards and wooly said, “as youth markets are brand. was named senior vice president and gen- surfaces with denim will be key.” integral to emerging looks and styling.” Lazear, who was appointed May 1, most eral merchandise manager. Creating a rich appeal with print techniques In this trend, tactile surfaces are key. Clas- recently worked as executive vice president The company is coping with some tough is part of the trend story. The “Gypset flare” sic denim pieces are reworked in new fabrics of design for mall-based lingerie chain Vic- . On March 20, the apparel and is a key item in the Sentiment story, offering a such as a trucker jacket in bouclé or velour. toria’s Secret. retail brand said its net earnings for the fiscal bohemian sensibility. Allover boho prints on Print is also updated with glossy and almost Lazear will direct design and development fourth quarter of 2013 were $81.4 million, a a skinny leg with a bell flare creates a strong, puff paint–inspired techniques. “This story is for all product categories for the company’s 15.1 percent decline compared with $95.9 ’70s-inspired look for women. playful, bold and brash, with an almost ‘bad- Guess and Marciano brands, including ap- million for the same period a year earlier. Texture is emphasized, Leverton said. “Jac- taste’ element,” Leverton said. parel and licensed accessories, said Guess Marciano predicted that a tough market quards are becoming increasingly important The final trend for Fall/Winter 2014 is “Al- Chief Executive Paul Marciano. “She brings will continue to affect the company’s sales. with over-the-top engineered weaves,” she legory,” a subversive trend that speaks of the a new level of leadership in design, beginning However, expansion into underserved said. “These weaves easily fit into a couple darker side of life and myth, magic and mys- with concept all the way through the market.” markets will boost profits and “streamlin- of our megatrend stories but into Sentiment tery, Leverton said. “Deep and saturated black Marciano said. “She has a successful track ing” operations would create savings, he particularly.” is a core denim shade for Fall/Winter 2014,” record of designing brand-right product that noted.—Andrew Asch

news

EU Continued from page 1 made by Koos Manufacturing in Los An- ing that we are getting ready to launch a trade Miami, said the Byrd Amendment was found geles, has a number of distributors in Great agreement [negotiations] with the European to be in violation of WTO rules, and despite a Britain, Germany and Italy for its jeans, which Union, and this stuff is out there,” said Steve repeal of the law, its effects were allowed to “Basically, what they have done is priced sell in Europe for about 200 euros, or $260 a Lamar, the AAFA’s executive vice president. continue. the jeans right out of the market,” said Debo- pair. “Certainly, it will affect our business. Our Last year, the United States shipped As a result, the WTO allows other rah Greaves, the in-house counsel for True products are expensive,” said Sam Ku, vice $30.3 million worth of women’s and girls’ countries to raise tariffs on goods im- Religion, which last year had 16 full-price president and creative director of the high-end denim pants to the European Union, down ported from the United States up to a cer- and outlet stores in Europe. International sales blue-jeans line. from the $44 million shipped in 2011, ac- tain amount, which varies every year. made up 18 percent of the company’s $467.2 cording to the U.S. Department of Com- “What this [new duty] does is eliminates the million in revenues in 2012. “As a manufactur- Job loss merce most promising growth export market for er you can discount your product, but at some The new duty on women’s premium denim these California products,” Travis said. “It point we have to have [profit] margins, too.” The new duties threaten to take a big chunk was announced by the European Union on represents a setback for the resurgence of U.S. Executives at Hudson jeans were planning out of the Los Angeles garment-manufacturing April 24 after the European Commission is- manufacturers.” to keep their EU retail prices the same for the industry, which has seen employment dwindle sued a regulation on April 17. Travis said his law firm is working with its moment. Currently, jeans sell for between every year over the last decade. Early this year, Three U.S. goods currently subject to a 15 European and U.S. offices to formulate some $189 and $245 in Europe. “We are commit- there were 44,500 people working in the ap- percent EU duty—sweet corn, eyewear frames strategic options. ted to not have prices increase,” said Peter parel-manufacturing business in Los Angeles and mountings, and crane trucks—will have Many find it odd that the new duties were Kim, the Los Angeles company’s founder and County, down from 45,000 in 2012. their duties increased to 26 percent. being added to apparel when most U.S. anti- chief executive. “We have to make some price Ilse Metchek, president of the California But the big hit came to U.S.-made women’s dumping disputes have been about food concessions and take some margin hits for the Fashion Association, is putting together a let- jeans. This category saw its 12 percent duty products and steel. “In trade wars, you punch most immediate and quickest solution for the ter urging action to overturn this duty or have rise to 38 percent. people where it hurts,” said Brenda Jacobs, shipments that are going out right now.” it revoked. “The letter basically says, ‘Do The pumped-up duties come from the EU’s an international-trade attorney with Sidley But Hudson wants to keep its production in something,’” Metchek said. World Trade Organization dispute with the Austin in Washington, D.C. “We have some Los Angeles. “We are committed to ‘Made in She was planning to send it to Barbara Box- United States over the Continued Dumping brands in Los Angeles that are really competi- LA,’ and we strongly believe in it and stand er and Dianne Feinstein, the two U.S. senators and Subsidy Offset Act, also known as the tive in Europe.” behind it,” Kim added. representing California; California Governor Byrd Amendment. Thimio Sotos, the chief financial officer at Koral Los Angeles, a denim company Jerry Brown; U.S. Rep. Lucille Roybal-Al- The U.S. Congress approved legislation in J Brand, a well-known Los Angeles premi- started last July by veteran denim maker Peter lard, whose district is in California; Fernando 2006 repealing the Byrd Amendment. How- um-denim label, said his company has many Koral and his son, David, has been aggressive Sanchez, an international trade specialist at the ever, Congress added transitional provisions European customers and sells to stores such about reaching out to the international market. U.S. Department of Commerce; and a host of that allowed U.S. customs to continue collect- as Selfridges and Harrods in and Exports now make up 40 percent of the com- other officials. ing duties for distribution until Oct. 1, 2007. Bon Marché in . “Europe is a big mar- pany’s revenues. Europe is a big part of that. The American Apparel & Footwear As- The payments continue to be disbursed on an- ket. They love premium denim, and they love “Everyone is scrambling to figure whether to sociation, a large trade group based in Ar- tidumping duties collected. premium denim made in the USA, which is an move our sewing to Mexico or Turkey and lington, Va., was reaching out to politicians in According to U.S. Customs and Bor- important component,” Sotos said. looking at other options,” said one executive Congress and in the Obama administration to der Protection’s annual report, issued on He said he will be working with the CFA at the company, who asked not to be named. make them aware of the new duty and ask how Nov. 27, nearly $120 million was paid out to and the industry to resolve this problem. “We “We take a lot of pride in the fact that the Ko- they could remedy the situation. U.S. firms in the 2012 fiscal year, up from want to make sure the industry is speaking ral label is made in Los Angeles, so this is dif- The AAFA is also talking with other appar- $95 million in 2011. with one voice and that we let the legislature ficult.” el and textile trade groups to help in lobbying Tom Travis, with the international trade [and Congress] know this is a California is- The AG Adriano Goldschmied label, efforts to be a stronger voice. “It is frustrat- law firm of Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg in sue,” he said. ●

apparelnews.net May 3–9, 2013 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01,3,8.cover.indd 3 5/2/13 7:14:56 PM events TALA and the California Fashion Foundation Present 2013 Scholarships

Los Angeles Trade Technical Los Angeles Trade Fashion Institute of Design & College’s Julieta Kleven, winner Technical College’s Merchandising’s Carol Wong, winner Otis College of Art & Pasadena City College’s Joshua California State University, Los of the Betty Baumgardner Virginia Dan, winner of of the Fineman West & Co. LLP in Design’s Eun Young Lee, Gutierrez, winner of one of two Angeles’ Christin Disi, winner of Award for Best Use of Textiles the Swat Fame Inc. Award Honor of Gary M. Fineman Award winner of the KWDZ Best Use of Technology Awards, the UPS Award Manufacturing Award presented by AIMS 360

Industry executives and students from sev- eral Southern California fashion design programs gathered on April 18 for the Textile Association of Los Angeles’ annual scholarship awards lun- cheon, held at the Califor- nia Market Center in Los Angeles. Before the event, guests mingled and viewed work by students at the Fash- El Camino College’s Tamta El Camino College’s Andrea Mt. San Antonio College’s Min Woodbury University’s Fashion Institute of Design & ion Institute of Design Kazaishivilli, winner of the McClenaghan, winner of the Best Choi, winner of the California Natalie Yaru, winner of the Merchandising’s Jimy Shu, & Merchandising, Los Cooper Design Space Award Media Presentation Award, Market Center Award Fashion Production Award, winner of the Grand Prize presented by California Apparel News presented by STC-QST Design Award, presented by Angeles Trade-Technical Karen Kane Inc. College, Woodbury Uni- versity, Otis College of Art + Design, Mt. San Antonio “global manufacturing renaissance” and the importance of foot incubator space. That, for sure, is [a big risk],” she College, Pasadena City College, California State Univer- domestic production. said. “Every day is a big leap and a big risk for FactoryLA, sity, Los Angeles and El Camino College. “Without a doubt [there’s a] growing demand around the and every day I land on my feet because of my experience “That talent we have seen come up this year is amazing,” country and around the world for ‘Made in USA product,’” at FIDM.” said Ann Davis, past president of TALA and a member of she said. During the presentation of awards, Ram Sareen, founder the scholarship committee. Garvin, who studied apparel manufacturing at FIDM, ad- of Los Angeles–based Tukatech, presented LA Trade- Leah Garvin, founder of FactoryLA, a new manufactur- vised the group to take risks. Tech’s Virginia Dan, winner of the “Future Entrepreneur ing incubator in Los Angeles, discussed what she calls a “Just a week ago, I signed a lease for a 4,000-square- Award,” with a TukaCAD system.—Alison A. Nieder

news Nike, Disney, Other Brands Join Calendar May 4 May 8 May 29 Otis College of Art and “Reduce Costs, Increase FIG Otis in New Sustainability Drive Design’s 31st Scholarship Profitability With the Latest Fashion Industry Gallery Benefit and Technologies” Dallas Otis College of Art + Design is To further promote eco-friendly fashion Beverly Hilton AIMS Through May 31 launching the “Otis Sustainability Al- practices and implement innovative design Beverly Hills California Market Center liance,” a partnership between industry methods in the classroom, Otis offers a Los Angeles May 30 leaders from the fashion, design, art and minor in sustainability for students, giving May 5 Available in three separate Dallas Apparel & Accessories higher-education communities who are them an opportunity to become conscious OffPrice workshops through May 10 Market dedicated in collaborating to create envi- of the environment as well as experience Gotham Hall Dallas Market Center New York May 15 Dallas ronmental, social and economic change. hands-on projects and develop strategies Through May 7 Surf Summit 16 Through June 2 The “Otis Sustainability Alliance” is being where they learn the value and social im- Accessories The Show San Jose del Cabo, Mexico launched at the Otis Scholarship Benefit pacts of their efforts. Fame Through May 18 June 2 and Fashion Show on May 4, with recog- According to the design school, the Moda Manhattan Coast nition of its inaugural partners, including sustainability minor has seen higher en- Jacob K. Javits Convention Center May 17 The Moore Building Eddie Bauer, Disney, Nike, Patagonia, rollment than any other minor at the de- New York California College of the Arts’ Miami and Todd Oldham. sign school. In recent years, students have Through May 7 annual fashion show Through June 3 California College of the Arts “Several megabrands are making major been able to connect with companies such May 6 campus investments in changes that are better for as Nike/Hurley, Yeohlee, Todd Oldham, San Francisco the earth and for its natural capital,” said and Hape Inc., working on re- Designers and Agents There’s more Starrett-Lehigh Building on ApparelNews.net. Rosemary Brantley, chair of fashion design cycling, sustainable-product development New York May 21 at Otis. “Our goal is to create positive ripple and more. Apparel Sourcing Show Through May 8 For calendar details and contact effects. The alliance members will collabo- “Fundamentally, businesses are respon- Intermezzo Collections Grand Tikal Futura Hotel and information, visit ApparelNews. rate with, inspire and educate our faculty sible to their resource base,” said Yvon Ch- Piers 92/94 Convention Center net/calendar. and students about the sustainable practices ouinard, founder of Patagonia and author of New York Guatemala City Through May 23 and priorities facing their industry. In turn, “The Responsible Company: What We’ve Through May 8 our students, as designers of the future, will Learned From Patagonia’s First 40 Years.” have the training and vision to design prod- “Without a healthy environment there ucts that ‘do less harm’ and help consumers are no shareholders, no employees, no cus- Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, make more-thoughtful decisions about their tomers and no business,” he said. location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. fashion purchases.” —Sarah Wolfson Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by MnM PUBLISHING CORP. Apparel News Group Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water­wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Properties of MnM PUBLISHING CORP., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2013 MnM Publishing Corp. All rights reserved. Pub­lished weekly except semi-weekly first week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and addition additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS May 3–9, 2013 apparelnews.net

04.calendar.news.indd 4 5/2/13 7:13:29 PM Advertorial Lost in Tall Cotton Why Cotton Prices Differ Around the World

By Robert P. Antoshak Managing Director Olah, Inc.

For apparel brands and mills, tracking the cost of availability. Higher-value cotton, in essence, has a way of Cotton Prices 2007–2011 cotton—and determining the best time to buy cotton— finding a futures price. Futures exchanges are essential in 250 is often an exercise in confusion and frustration. Prices establishing some basic level of price discovery. There is change, due to a host of factors, and buying at one time a problem, though: Not all companies around the world 200 versus another can mean the difference between paying are permitted by their governments to trade futures. Lo- less than $1 per pound to paying well over $2 per pound. cal exchanges have sprouted up to help fill the need—for 150 Brands and mills have two questions about cotton. example, the MCX in India and ZCE in China—but these

The first is whether or not the price of cotton will go US Cents per Lb 100 exchanges track local prices and are not representative of higher or lower. The second is why the price of cotton in broader global price levels.

the United States is different from the price in China? Or 50 All of this can leave mills and brands not only confused India? Or Pakistan? Or, pick a country? and frustrated but also vulnerable. As there is no really The fact is that cotton prices can and do vary widely 26 Feb23 07 Aug20 07 Feb19 08 Aug11 08 Feb10 09 Aug08 09 Feb16 10 Sep16 10 Mar16 11 Sep 11 true way to measure the global price of cotton other than

around the globe, much like the cut of clothes varies from Source: EmergingTextiles.com the ICE price, which acts as a surrogate for global prices, brand to brand. As of this writing, the price for cotton there is no simple way of tracking the global price of cot- in New York is about 85 cents per pound, while in Delhi Weather adds another layer of uncertainty. Droughts ton other than to become a terrific market researcher. the price is over $1 per pound and in over $1.30. and excessive rainfall can dramatically affect the cost of There are two information sources that allow cotton Which is the correct price? The answer is: They all are. cotton. For example, the price run-up that occurred in consumers to keep abreast of the global (and local) mar- There are numerous types of cotton grown around 2011 was due, in part, to flooding in Pakistan that wiped ket for cotton. First is the Cotton Outlook website (www. the world. To name just a few, there are Texas FiberMax®, out much of the domestic cotton crop there. In turn, this cotlook.com), which tracks the latest in prices around Memphis Eastern, Egyptian, Pima, Australian, SJV, Shankar forced local mills to import cotton from the United States the world. The other is the International Cotton Advisory 6, West African, Xinjiang, with many subtypes of cotton and elsewhere, which created more demand—and thus within each major cotton-growing region. Because of this higher prices—than would otherwise have been the case. complexity, growing patterns can easily change from sea- Add to this the lack of a centralized, global cotton mar- son to season as farmers try to select those types of cotton ket. Instead, each market acts independently, according to most likely to give them the most return on their invest- ment. Moreover, farmers may opt to grow other crops, such The first [question] is whether or not as corn or soybeans, in addition to or instead of cotton. If al- ternate crops take available acres away from cotton, prices the price of cotton will go higher or can be significantly affected. lower. The second is why the price of cotton in the United States is different from [other countries].

government policies, allowing local supply-and-demand is- sues to skew the price of cotton from country to country. For example, in 2011, the government of India, in a bid Fluctuating cotton prices can leave mills and manufacturers hot to lower cotton prices for Indian textile mills, imposed an under the collar if they buy at the wrong time. Sudden and unex- pected events can push prices up and down, but being prepared export quota. In effect, this action took one of the larg- and informed helps brands and manufacturers source efficiently. est producers of cotton out of the global market. Cotton soared to over $2 per pound everywhere, except in India, of course, where cotton prices fell. And this year, the gov- Committee website (www.icac.org), which tracks the lat- ernment of China has purchased and stored huge quanti- est global supply-and-demand estimates and forecasts. ties of cotton—some estimates put the Chinese reserve at When looking at the global market for cotton, buyers more than half of the world’s cotton—in an effort to help have to consider complexity, crop competition, weather, prop up the price of Chinese-grown cotton. This action has government actions, and futures exchanges. The best had the result of taking a sizable percentage of the global tool that sourcing companies have to wade through available supply of cotton off-line. With reduced global this flood of conflicting forces is to anchor themselves supply, prices in New York, for example, have risen from by gathering as much information about the market as about 65 cents per pound to about 85 cents per pound. possible. Contributing another layer of uncertainty are futures For now, it appears that prices may decline in the short exchanges. There are relatively few cotton futures con- run, but that can change if the weather wreaks havoc or if tracts around the world, so hedging against price hikes some new government policy affects the normal trade of or declines is difficult from a global perspective. In theory, cotton. Here’s the point: Don’t leave next year’s sourcing there is a way to hedge costs over the long haul by using decisions to chance. Like fashion trends, cotton prices are a moving target. Buying cotton—or cotton fabric—at the right time makes a difference Intercontinental Exchange (ICE) futures prices as a guide. Robert Antoshak has more than 30 years of experience in how much it costs a brand to make a pair of jeans, what the Although ICE only tracks one style of cotton, futures pric- in the cotton world and advises clients globally about the wholesale price is and what the consumer ultimately pays for it. es all other styles of cotton depending upon quality and cotton market as Managing Director of Olah Inc.

Kingpins5.3.13.indd 5 5/2/13 2:25:51 PM Denim report S & J USA, Inc. Mel Matsui, 68: Denim Expert Launched Simply Blue, Christopher Blue, Indigo Hand and Pulp Brands

Obituary tion, Code Bleu enjoyed huge success and was sold by 1989. Moving to Los Angeles Denim-industry veteran Mel Matsui died in 1990, Mel worked at LA Gear and Quik- on April 12. He was 68. silver until 1993, when he started Indigo Andrew Olah, president of Olah Inc., or- Hand, another indigo-centric collection, ganizer of the Kingpins trade show, wrote using the best Japanese fabrics. Then came this remembrance of his friend and business Pulp, using Tencel denim. Tencel fiber was associate. new to the market at the time, and it’s inter- esting to note Mel saw the potential of that The quantity and diversity of individu- fiber in denim in its early days on the mar- als who actualize a combination of ingenu- ket. Today Tencel is a seriously important C&C ity, creativity and commerce are the things component of premium denim. that make America special. Foreigners like Then Mel had the idea of making a jeans Metal this expatriate move to brand in the USA after the United States to be he sold Indigo Hand to 843 E. 31st St. amongst a nation of peo- Caitac, a Japanese laundry ple bursting with entrepre- in Los Angeles, and part- Los Angeles, CA 90011 neurial spirit. nered with them on a new One of the lights of this line called Origin Ameri- glorious American bea- ca, which was produced in con dimmed on April 12, Bellingham, Wash. ALL TYPES ZIPPERS Tel: (323) 231-0811 40 days before his 69th In 1997, as the trend JEAN RIVETS birthday, when my friend, for “premium jeans” be- Fax: (323) 231-3820 mentor and hero Mel Mat- gan, Mel and his wife, TACK BUTTONS sui died. His memory lives Barbara Rosati, started SNAP BUTTONS Email: [email protected] vibrantly in my soul, and I Simply Blue and Christo- feel his presence, his hu- pher Blue. His target was PLUS MORE mor and his love for our a more misses customer TRIMS AVAILABLE Operating hours industry frequently in my rather than the hip young life. His spirit will live for- clients the Los Angeles NAILhEAdS 8:00 am – 5:00 pm (PST) ever amongst those who Mel Matsui premium brands were ALL TYPES ZIPPERS Monday – Friday were lucky enough to have chasing. Mel’s idea was been touched by his presence and friend- again correct, and he was able to sell that ship. company and all its other brands and Jag I met Mel sometime in the early 1980s license in 2005 to Hartmarx in Chicago. when he was a vice president of Brittania Serving as president of Simply Blue for a in Seattle. He had just returned from Hong few years, Mel was later able to spend more Kong, where he had been president of Brit- time with his family, camping, golfing and tania , whose sourcing office, fishing while cutting traveling from his life. Brittsport, had become the largest buyer of What is most fascinating about Christo- men’s jeans in Hong Kong, and Brittsport’s pher Blue and the various other brands and factories held the most quota of jeans for the licenses that fell under the Simply Blue um- USA during the days of bilateral trade agree- brella was that Mel and Barbara were able to ments. start and run the business from their house Mel was bubbly, busy, ingeniously smart for a very long time until it became too big. and funny. Brittania was a hugely successful First they worked from the front room, firm—really the first company to make jeans then two bays in the garage, and, finally, in a huge way outside of the USA. Mel un- three bays before going to the traditional derstood the jeans and casualwear industry route of having corporate offices. to its core. He understood and loved design. Mel avoided travel yet produced his ap- I’ve met very few people in my career who parel in China. Building a powerful sales carried his passion and understanding of the team, he was also able to avoid the need to importance and relevance of new product deal with trade shows and customer visits for and good product. In conjunction with that the most part. Mel did Simply Blue the way mentality, Mel completely understood the all of us aspire to live and work—his way the industry trifecta: production, product and whole way and from his residence. profit. He was also skilled at setting up cor- Mel’s importance in our industry is gigan- porate administration, sourcing fabrics and tic. He innately felt what was coming next. factories, and it was easy for him to build He was a living entity that could synthesize long-lasting relationships with foreign buy- what the market needed and was capable of ing agents. Mel’s personality inspired the executing—again, both creatively and physi- best people to want to work with him. cally. Some people in our industry design, Once he was interviewed in a magazine some produce, some market, some sell—but and asked what was the single most impor- Mel did it all. In my 37 years in the indus- tant element for us to keep in mind when try I have hardly ever met anyone who could making a brand in our industry. While many perform all these skills at the same time. industry icons were asked the same question I am going to miss Mel enormously. His and gave esoteric, complex responses, Mel family has to find the strength to live life answered in “Melspeak.” “Points,” he said. without him being physically available, but “It’s all about margin.” But what he did not they too will live with him inside them- Print + Online + say or share was that he always assumed the selves. product was excellent and special. For him We all work in this industry for various the business was about the three F’s: fit, fab- reasons. Some of us because we love it; Archives = Total Access ric, finish. some of us because we do not have any other Mel’s career after Brittania is an enor- skills and have no choice. Few of us leave Get Yours Today and Save 75%! mous body of either great success or being a mark or, as in Mel’s case, many marks or first. exclamation points. He set a high benchmark Initially, there was Chutes Corp., which for entrepreneurs in the jeans business. It’s Visit www.apparelnews.net/subscribe/total created the young men’s line Fresh Squeeze, not easy to have one success. It’s almost un- and then he launched Code Bleu in 1983, a believable to have accomplished what Mel Or call (866) 207-1448 line devoted entirely to the best indigo jeans Matsui did. I suppose this can only happen possible. Using Japanese fabric and produc- in America. ●

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS May 3–9, 2013 apparelnews.net

06-7.denim.stylesight.indd 6 5/2/13 7:17:28 PM SHOL.OLEGbcFRONT:SHOL business card 12/10/10 10:07 AM P

denim report

Creative Agency for Brands Launches Oleg Zatsepin Its Own Line: Frame Denim When Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson of turing, wash, logistics and shipping is now the London-based fashion marketing firm The done in Los Angeles. SHOL Saturday Group met Josh LeVine, the for- “The inspiration was to create the perfect- mer West Coast director of creative services fitting jean in amazing fabrics with beautiful C: 323.804.6383 at Lucky Brand Jeans, a business relation- washes. At the time we initially created Frame, suppliertextilessupplier ofof fusiblesfusibles and interliningsinterlinings ship was instantly everyone was doing O:323.786.0334 born, giving life to print and novelty, so Frame Denim. we purposely avoided The Saturday it. We really wanted [email protected] F: 213.482.4858 Group, which is an to focus on a return to umbrella company blue and core colors known for lead- like navy, black, white ing international and gray,” LeVine “WHat’S in fashion campaigns, said. conceived Net-a- In Fall 2012, Frame Porter’s menswear Denim launched at yOur pantS?” company, Mr. Por- Ron Herman LA, ter; worked with Barneys New York Natalie Portman and Net-a- Porter, as for Miss Dior; well as Ikram in Chi- and created digi- cago, The Grocery tal placements for Store in San Fran- SHOL textiles Balenciaga and cisco, and internation- 234 Eucalyptus Drive Tory Burch as well ally at Liberty and as countless other Matches in London El Segundo, CA 90245 campaigns. and Isetan in . O: 323.786.0334 Founders Grede They debuted with and Torstensson just one style: the F: 213.482.4858 established The skinny-fit “Le Skinny Shane Rabineau: 310.766.5074 Saturday Group in de Jeanne,” partly 2003, serving as the because the partners [email protected] creative agency for wanted to launch with Oleg Zatsepin: 323.804.6383 media and luxury an edited and pol- clients, housing 12 ished style, LeVine [email protected] private businesses said. “Although we [email protected] in London, Paris, did this [jean] in a few , New York different fabrics, we www.sholtextiles.com and Los Angeles. felt that it was really With roughly 200 important to estab- employees and 140 lish one perfect fit so clients—including the customer going H&M, Calvin forward would know Klein, Moncler and [our product] would Kurt Geiger—The be impeccable,” Your Source for Premium Products Saturday Group of- LeVine said. fers digital, licens- For Spring, the ing and marketing company introduced strategies, as well as a new fit, “Le Gar- an and çon,” which is a branding perspec- “boy” fit, as well as a tive through its divisions Wednesday, RMO cut-off and high-waisted shorts version. The Comms, Tomorrow, Hall London, IBE 360 core jean, “Le Skinny de Jeanne,” whole- and Industrie. sales for $82, and “Le Garçon” wholesales Grede and Torstensson were originally con- for $86.50. The new “Luxe Noir Le Skinny” nected with LeVine through a mutual friend. comes in ultra-luxe sateen and wholesales Only after a few months of conversation in for $90.50. late 2011, they decided they should partner LeVine said the company plans to ex- up, start a denim line and manufacture it in pand—but at its own pace. “The plan from Los Angeles. inception was to ultimately become a life- “From day one, we thought it was extreme- style brand,” LeVine said. When the time ly important to be a ‘Made in LA’ product,” is right, I’m sure we will expand into other LeVine said. All of the production, manufac- categories.”—Sarah Wolfson

Apparel News Group Account Executives Credit Manager Daniella Platt Rita o’connor Amy valencia Account manager Publisher/General Manager Lynne Kasch molly Rhodes sales assistant MnM Publishing Corp.: Accessories Conchos Hook & Eyes Machinery Rivets Tack Buttons 1945-2013 ally noel Co-CEOs Sixty-eight years of news, Classified senior account executive Bra Hook & Ring God Locks Hook & Loops Nail Heads Safety & Kilt Pins Tips fashion and information Teri Fellman jenn Kolu Carl Wernicke Buckles Elastic Jean Rivets Purse Frames Sliders Webbing Executive Editor Classified Chains Eyelets & Grommets Loops Rhinestones Snaps Wood Beads ALISON A. NIEDER Publisher/Chairman/CEO Charms Fasteners Machine Dies Rings Suspender Clips Zippers Account Executives Martin Wernicke Fashion Editor Zenny R. Katigbak 1922-2000 n. jayne seward jeffery younger PUBLISHED BY Senior Editor Classified Accounting MnM PUBLISHING CORP. Deborah Belgum Marilou Dela Cruz AppArel News Group Publishers of: Retail Editor Service Directory California Apparel News Andrew Asch Account Executive Waterwear manufacturing/technology Editor June Espino Jr. Production Manager sarah wolfson EXECUTIVE OFFICE Editorial Manager Kendall in California Market Center Keylin inc. John Irwin art director 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 312 E. Jefferson Blvd. Dot Wiltzer Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 Webmaster (213) 627-3737 Los Angeles, CA 90011 zippers Tom Gapen production Artist Fax (213) 623-5707 social media coordinator John Freeman Fish Classified Advertising Fax (213) 623-1515 Tel (323) 232-6700 jenn Kolu Photo Editor Swiss Made www.apparelnews.net Creative Marketing Director John Urquiza [email protected] Fax (323) 232-6858 Louise Damberg Controller Mid and West Region Pr i n t e d in t h e U.S.A. Director of Sales and Marketing Jim patel www.keylininc.com TERRY MARTINEZ [email protected] Distribution Center

apparelnews.net May 3–9, 2013 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

06-7.denim.stylesight.indd 7 5/2/13 7:50:10 PM eco notes

Volcom Continued from page 1 en to cut its environmental waste. But the brand In a statement, Gap Inc. said that it does not materials and powered it with 600 solar panels. had already committed to a 25 percent reduc- work with the factory investigated by Green- In 2007, it also undertook an environmental au- ability. Volcom’s French-based parent com- tion of carbon dioxide, energy, water and waste peace. Rather, it has worked with another facil- dit similar to Volcom’s EP&L. It aspires to be pany, Kering—which also owns , Stella by 2015 in the announcement of its long-term ity run by PT Gistex. “We have established best a carbon-neutral company by 2020, said Pierre McCartney and Alexander McQueen—has strategy in 2010. Puma also joins Volcom and practices with mills to reduce the environmen- André Senizergues, company founder and made environmental citizenship a company- all of Kering’s luxury and sport and lifestyle tal impact of fabric dyeing and finishing,” said chief executive officer. He also noted that it is wide focus. brands in reaching the group’s sustainability Debbie Mesloh, Gap Inc.’s senior director of getting easier to be a green company. In May 2011, Puma released the first phase targets by 2016. public affairs. “We are seeing more and more materializa- of its EP&L and the final EP&L in November The mere accounting of a business’s envi- “We also have a long-established product- tion available that we can use to reduce our 2011. It drew praise from ronmental costs is impor- testing program and use accredited independent footprint, which was not available 10 years environmental groups, tant, said Kevin Whilden, third-party labs to test our branded products. ago,” he said. “The suppliers are bringing more European governments a social entrepreneur and We know that, as an industry, more needs to options to the table. Unfortunately, the cost of and other businesses. The co-founder of Sustain- be done, and at Gap Inc. we continue to evolve products is going up due to the cost of labor in report found that Puma’s able Surf, a nonprofit that our sourcing practices.” China, which does make it hard for companies worldwide operations, advises surf companies to incorporate specialty materials.” including the manufactur- on sustainable business Cleaning up Ecologically minded fashion is becoming ing production of its third- practices. “Most com- good business, said Todd Roberts, co-owner of party vendors, cost the en- panies really only look Other companies have worked to clean ZJ Boarding House boutique in Santa Moni- vironment. “The sustain- at their direct impacts, the apparel industry’s dirty reputation. Levi ca, Calif. ability of business itself such as buildings and Strauss & Co., for example, developed a code “I’ve seen a steady increase in the envi- depends on the long-term employees. The EP&L of conduct for its suppliers to place standards ronmentally friendly product offerings in the availability of natural cap- looks at impacts from a for labor, safety and environment. “We moni- last few years, and it’s great to see,” Roberts ital,” said Jochen Zeitz, company’s suppliers, its tor our suppliers to ensure they are following said. “In most cases customers get excited to former chief sustainability raw-material suppliers. ... our requirements,” said Kris Marubio, a Levi’s discover sustainable products in our shops. A officer of Kering and for- It is quite impressive,” he representative. large mix of the boardshorts we sell are made mer chairman of Puma. said. The company is working to promote trans- from recycled plastic bottles. Companies like He currently serves on the The apparel indus- parency, by the end of 2013, on how manufac- Billabong and Hurley have been doing this for board of Kering. try’s credibility in the turers discard hazardous chemicals, according years, and they call it out in their ads, with their “If we treated our Eco-Chief: Derek Sabori is the environmental world to Levi’s 2012 annual report. It also joined Ker- POP (displays) and on their hangtags.” planet as we treat any Volcom label’s first senior director of took a hit last month ing, Nike and H&M in the “Zero Discharge of If these products are marketed well, con- other service provider, sustainability. when prominent envi- Hazardous Chemicals” program by 2020. It sumers seek them out, he said. Puma would have to pay ronmental group Green- also is a member of the Sustainable Apparel However, there’s a lot more work to do, Sa- 8 million euros [$10.5 peace International Coalition, which was founded in 2009 by Pa- bori said. “The best of the program is still to million] to nature for services rendered to our released its report “Toxic Threads: Polluting tagonia and Walmart to help assess standards come,” he said. Just getting environmentally core operations such as Puma offices, ware- Paradise.” According to the report, some of to make an environmentally friendlier supply sustainable practices on radar screens has been houses and stores in 2010 alone,” he said in the the apparel business’s most high-marquee chain. one of Sabori’s priorities since starting his job EP&L. “In addition, 137 million euros [$180 names—including Gap Inc., Group, Surf and skate companies are also known for in 2010. “Changing the culture and getting million] would be owed to nature from Puma’s Brooks Bros., H&M and Japanese company their support of environmental initiatives. Sole everybody to speak the same language is im- supply chain of external partners.” Zeitz said Marubeni—worked with an Indonesian fac- Technology Inc., a Lake Forest, Calif., foot- portant. What does sustainability mean to the that Puma’s economically quantifying its envi- tory owned by PT Gistex Group, which has a wear and apparel company, named a manager company? What can I do in my department to ronmental impact will not affect the company’s history of dumping chemicals deemed by the of environmental affairs in 2007, becoming one help us drive to the goals we have set? Getting net earnings. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency to be of the first surf and skate companies to do so. to work on supply chain—that is where the real Puma has not released what steps it has tak- highly toxic to aquatic life. It also built its headquarters from sustainable heavy lifting will be.” ●

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8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS May 3–9, 2013 apparelnews.net

01,3,8.cover.indd 8 5/2/13 7:15:20 PM event denim Resources on-site Riri machine from Switzerland to Keylin Inc. allow on-site custom jobs enabling zipper Shol Textiles Fashion First for Woodbury 312 E. Jefferson Blvd. customization that closely matches the 234 Eucalyptus Drive Los Angeles, CA 90011 original factory specification. Keylin may El Segundo, CA 90245 This year, fashion design students at Woodbury University had two (323) 232-6700 also accept orders for production from (310) 766-5074 opportunities in the spotlight when the design school hosted a pair of run- Fax: (323) 232-6858 Riri’s Swiss plant that can be shipped Fax: (213) 482-4858 way events. On April 27, the school hosted its annual fundraising fashion [email protected] anywhere in the world where customers www.sholtextiles.com gala at the Natural History Museum in Los Angeles, and on May 2, www.KeylinInc.com may desire. The success of Keylin, Inc. Contact: Shane Rabineau or Oleg Zatsepin Woodbury invited the public to a second runway event, at LA Center Products and Services: Keylin, Inc. is a as a leader in its line of trade is indicative [email protected] company organized to design, manufac- of the effectiveness of the company’s [email protected] Studios in downtown Los Angeles. Pictured is the April 27 event. Photos ture, and market fasteners for the aviation, philosophy and goal. Products and Services: SHOL Textiles’ from the May 2 event will appear at ApparelNews.net. construction, garment, leather, medical, premium soft and stable interlinings can and oceanic industries. This Los Angeles– go through aggressive washes and still based company serves as a distribution S & J USA Inc. give you the look and feel on the inside to center that provides immediate delivery of 843 E. 31st St. make you look good on the ouside. Services goods to customers. Keylin offers a vast Los Angeles, CA 90011 include full-service testing of fabrics with variety of hardware to the global market. (323) 231-0811 SHOL Textiles’ premium fusibles for any The company specializes in custom-built, Fax: (323) 231-3820 apparel needs. We offer excellent quality, made-to-order product lines that satisfy [email protected] service, and price! We will visit you or send the customers’ needs. Keylin is proud to Products and Services: S & J USA, Inc. has samples or receive your fabric to make fuse become the Mid- and Western Regional been a major, authorized distributor of YKK tests to recommend the proper fusible for Distributor of the world’s leading premium zippers for over 25 years. We carry a vast your fabric. fashion zipper manufacturer, Riri Zippers array of zippers, and we have an in-house of Switzerland. To date, Keylin has a stock factory that allows us to complete orders collection of #4, #6, and #8 metal zip- quicker than our competitors. S & J USA, pers available in 5-metal teeth colors and Inc. also specializes in snaps, tack buttons, This listing is provided as a 7 tape colors. This provides a vast array free service to our advertisers. eyelets, and elastics, among other trims. We regret that we cannot be of 105 different combinations of items to Our customers range from the U.S. to Asia, responsible for any errors satisfy the customer’s creative demand. and we hope to expand even further in the or omissions within Denim To enhance Keylin’s operation as Riri’s future. We are known for great customer Resources. Regional Distribution Center, Keylin has an service and quality materials. DDR F&M P r o d uctions an Jonathan Robe ts Photog a p hy

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apparelnews.net May 3–9, 2013 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 9

09.news.advert.indd 9 5/2/13 7:25:48 PM

apparelnews.net May 3–9, 2013 CalIFOrnIa apparel news 9 CLASSIFIEDS P 213-627-3737 Ext. 278, 280 F 213-623-1515 www.apparelnews.net Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available

1st PATTERNMAKER - DAVID MEISTER 10-15 years experience in better dressmaking. Extensive knowledge of garment fit and construction required. Must have knowledge of the Gerber 8.1 system. EDI/CUSTOMER SERVICE GRAPHIC/CAD ARTIST-GIRLS 7 -14 Please email resume: [email protected] Minimum 5+ yrs. exp in apparel industry, must be exp in Highly creative, hard-working, committed, and possess a EDI accounts and all aspects of order processing for ma- keen eye for GIRLS Fashion Screened Tops. Bring fresh EIGHT SIXTY jor stores such as Wal-Mart ,Target and Macys and spe- ideas and self-initiative into our fast-paced work environ- 1ST PATTERNMAKER WANTED cialty stores, knowledge of Blue Cherry system is a ment. Teamwork critical. Highly organized, driven for First Pattern maker contemporary line. Minimum 5+ years must, proficient in MS-Word /Excel, excellent verbal & results, and clearly communicate creative ideas. Profi- experience. Gerber V8 system. Fast paced environment. written communication skills is a must. cient in Illustrator and Photoshop. Strong usage of the Variety of fabrications, knits and woven's. Great place to ------latest graphic design and CAD software. Great benefits. work. Full benefits Package. CUSTOMER SERVICE ASSISTANT Please submit Portfolio with resume to: Contact: Aida Vasquez fax 213-683-8390 Min. of 3+ yrs. exp in apparel industry, will assists [email protected] Email [email protected] Billing/Shipping dept. in providing information to cus- tomers & Accounting dept, data entry & filing. Must CLOVER CANYON FULL-TIME 1ST THRU have strong attention to detail & ability to problem-solve FIT MODEL CASTING PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER & must be computer literate. Knowledge of MS Word/ Seeking: Female Fit Model SANCTUARY CLOTHING LLC (Burbank Location) Excel is a plus. Only professional fit models apply. Please send your picture, Fulltime 1st thru Production Patternmaker Please send your resume to measurements, and resume to [email protected] for consid- -Minimum of 10 years experience [email protected] eration. Location: Downtown Los Angeles -must be proficient on Gerber system or fax to (323) 266-2590 Attn: Jonathon Must be available for a regular fitting 2 times per week. -Knowledge of knit and woven fabrics Must meet the measurement specifications below- exact or -attend fittings and able to execute Designer's vision as close to: DENIM DESIGNER -spec and fit driven, detailed, ability to prioritize -height : between 5'7" & 5'9" -bust: 34 - Bilingual in Korean/English Designer and meet deadlines. -bra : 34B -shoulder: 15" - Minimum 2 years experience in Jr. denim Email resume with salary requirements to -waist: 26.5" -high hip: 32.5" - Knowledge of wash, fabrics & Trims [email protected] -low hip: 37" -rise: 27" - Team player, creative, energetic, organized&details -torso: 61.5" -inseam: 33.5" Please send resume to [email protected] First-Production Patternmaker Leading Children's wear manufacturer seeks a First-Produc- Job Opening in Garment Manufacturer CLOVER CANYON tion Pattern Maker, PAD SYSTEM literate only min. 5 yr. exp. - Designer EXECUTIVE TRAINEE POSITION Good knowledge of children's garment construction, Grad- - Pre-Production Manager Well established L.A. based apparel mfr. is seeking ing & Specs for o/s. Organized, Positive attitude, Good com- - QC an enthusiastic individual with a minimum of a bachelor munication skills also can work on a fast paced environment. For consideration, please send resume to degree (business and/or marketing), self motivated, Email resume to: [email protected] [email protected] organized and detail oriented with great computer skills. Position involves production, shipping, internet sales & other misc. tasks. Please submit resume to: [email protected]

PATTERNMAKER DESIGN ASSISTANT Coordinator-EDI /Shipping & Receiving Candidate must have experience in women's Contemporary sportswear & dress company looking Los Angeles based clothing company is seeking a well contemporary apparel. Strong communication and for a motivated, detail oriented, highly organized team qualified individual to work in a fast paced environment. organizational skills. Attention to detail. Able to work in a player. Must have good follow-up skills and a good Must have extensive knowledge working with Electronic team setting. Computer literate is a must, Gerber system attitude. Sketching ability and knowledge of Illustrator & Data Interchange (EDI), strong communication skills, a plus. Bilingual English/Spanish a plus. Photoshop are a must. Needs to be able to work in an able to handle extensive phone & email correspondence Fax resume with salary history to 323-277-6830 or email exciting fast paced, high pressure environment. Duties with customers and Sales Reps, extremely organized in PDF or Word format to [email protected] include line lists, finding trims, organization, tracking & and detail oriented. Responsibilties: Coordinate set-up & reporting on production pattern work. Must have testing of all new EDI accounts with both Traading Part- minimum 3 years design room experience. ner and the company's system provider, Monitor all in- Please e-mail your resume to [email protected] bound/outbound EDI documents, Maintain company cat- alogue with GXS (formally Inovis), Coordinate purchase order fullfillment with warehouse. Candidates must have Sales Assistant PATTERNMAKER minimum 2 years experience in Apparel industry. Email Seeking a full time Sales Assistant. Must have leadership Resumbes to: [email protected] Seeking highly skilled production patternmakers. Must have qualities & be a self-. Must have fluency in 5-10 yrs exp w/ specialty gowns, fabric and high quality pro- Photoshop, MS Word, & Excel. Experience is required. duction. Salary based on exp. Fax resume & salary history Email resume with salary history to: [email protected] SEWER to 213.747.9311 or email: [email protected] Minimum of 5 years experience. Should know all Customer Service Executive fabrics, but knits & wovens knowledge is required. DOMESTIC PRE-PRODUCTION/ Searching experienced customer service executive. Email resume to: [email protected] PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Must have strong knowledge with order entry and EDI Fax: 626-934-4128 or apply in person: Domestic Full Package company looking for several invoicing. Experience in AIMS system. Good communica- 3071 East Temple Ave. City of Industry, CA 91746 tion. 3-4 years experience in the apparel industry. experienced. Pre-Production/Production Coordinator. Please send resumes to [email protected] 5 years minimum. Candidate must be able to read and analyze design sheets, production tech packs, Time in Action and able to maintain customer support. Phone now for Classified advertising information: Please send your resume and salary history. Jeffery 213-627-3737 Ext. 280 [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] http://classifieds.apparelnews.net/

10 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS May 3–9, 2013 APPARELNEWS.net

050313 class-jf.indd 10 5/2/13 7:30:42 PM Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available Sales Manager Quality Control Est'd & growing contemporary fashion brand seeks sea- LA dress manufacturer seeking field QC person for local TECHNICAL DESIGNER soned professional with solid sales & marketing skills. 5+ contractors. Follow up on cutting, sewing, specs and TOP's. Premium Denim Co. located in the South Bay is seeking yrs. exp. Able to work in a fast paced environment. Comput- Min. 5 yr. exp. Please call Richard at 213-746-6500, ext 228 an individual to work with creative director. Must be fa- er & great comm. skills. Majors & S/S current contacts a or email [email protected] miliar w/garment construction, excellent communication must. Email to: [email protected] & follow-up ability. Well rounded knowledge of overseas and domestic garment production & construction req'd. Must have exp. in Adobe Illustrator & Excel to create technical packages. Knowledge of construction & wash processes (denim exp. preferred) required.. JUNIOR FABRIC SALESPERSON E-Mail resumes to: [email protected] LAUNDRY PRODUCTION MANAGER Fabric Co. located in the So. Bay is seeking an individual Seeking experienced laundry and dye manager to over- w/2 yrs. sales exp. ( fashion/garment industry preferred) see local production. Must have experience with wash to maintain current customers & generate new business. Real Estate development, execute production, solve problems; time- Must have good communication (verbal & written) Garment Buildings ly deliveries; be able to work well with design team and Comp. Lit. (Word/Excel). Well organized, detail oriented Mercantile Center production staff; oversee finishing department for final w/ability to work in a fast paced environment required. 500 sq. ft. - 16,500 sq. ft. Priced Right. quality. Email: [email protected] E-Mail Resume To: [email protected] Full Floors 4500 sq ft. Lights-Racks-New Paint-Power SALES REPRESENTATIVE - MISSY Parking Available - Good Freight. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Call 213-627-3754 Exp. private label manufacturer seeks qualified individual New Missy and plus size knitwear line seeking talented Sales Representative to be located either in NY or So. CA. Must with min 5 yrs of exp. in garment manufacturing. Must be Design Patternmaker Garment Lofts have an active department store, major retail or specialty organized, detail oriented, computer proficient and a team 300 sq ft - 1,000 sq ft. store relationships to bring to the table. Email resume : player with excellent communication skills, ordering raw Call 213-627-3755 materials, trims, problem-solving and able to make [email protected] decisions. Understanding Tech Pack and garment constructions. Great atmosphere & Team to be a part of. SALES REPRESENTATIVES Buy, Sell, and Trade Send Resume to:[email protected] Import Textile Company in Los Angeles specializing in imported prints, novelties, and commodities is looking for WE NEED FABRIC sales representatives with at least 3 years experience. Silks Wools Denims Knits Prints Solids... Production Coordinator Fax Resume 213-749-6034 email [email protected] Apparel & Home decorative. Los Angeles based clothing company is seeking an ener- No lot to small or large... getic, qualified individual to work in a fast paced environ- Sales Assistant Also, buy sample room inventories... ment. Must be extremely organized with strong commu- Textile oriented/garment importer seeks a motivated Stone Harbor 323-277-2777 nication skills with overseas factories and inter-office individual for a Sales Assistant position. Experience in Marvin or Michael personnel. Works well under pressure and maintains all textile and garment industry a must. Extensive email corre- deadlines. Applicant must have excellent computer skills. spondence with customer, in-house sales and in-house Selling Unique Baby Blanket Line! Detailed tracking of production T&A calendar, managing production. Must be well organized, detail oriented and with Perfect Graduation gift for YOU! WIP and other reports, and follow up on fit thru TOP impeccable follow up skills. Design background helpful. Take over Baby Line. Currently in high end boutiques. Sale samples are a few of the key responsibilties for this posi- Send Resume to: [email protected] tion. Must have at least 2 years experience in garment includes sales by Reps. in Cal Mart showroom, 35+ designs, production. Email Resumes to: [email protected] patterns, fabrics, samples, consulting, etc. The hard work VIMMIA - CORP. SALES REP has been done! email:[email protected] Estab'd LA Manufacturer seeks Corp Sales Rep for Western Production Manager US terr. for new luxe contemp yoga/activewear division. 3+ Womens contemporary brand is seeking an experienced yrs exp required. Must have exp planning & executing suc- http://classifieds.apparelnews.net/ production manager to handle domestic production with lo- cessful road work & travel. Acct. list w/activewear, spas, yo- cal contractors. Must have thorough knowledge of better ga & fitness buyers a plus! Competitive sal+commis+bene- For Classified advertising information: garment construction and be comfortable working hands on. fits. If you live a fit, active, positive lifestyle & want to work Jeffery 213-627-3737 Ext. 280 email resume to: [email protected] at a great company, send resume to [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]

Trade Shows A California Apparel News Special Section Trade Shows Section

Welcome to the Shows! Get into the next Distribution for the May 10 issue includes: Trade Shows Agenda • Apparel Sourcing Guatemala • Atlanta Market • D&A MAN • Special Sections Dallas Market • Designers & Agents • FMNC • Indigo • Kingpins LA & NY • with advertorial LA Fashion Market • LA Majors Market • Launch • Licensing Expo • Miami coming May 10 May 10 and Swim • OffPrice • POOL • PV-NY • Sourcing@Magic • Spin Expo • Surf Nov. 15, 2013 Expo • Texworld • WWDMagic • WWIN

Call Terry Martinez for more information and to reserve space: 213-627-3737 x213

APPARELNEWS.net May 3–9, 2013 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 11

050313 class-jf.indd 11 5/2/13 7:31:17 PM New! Improved!

We’ve redesigned our website! ApparelNews.net has been redesigned to make it easier to get fashion trends and comprehensive industry news. And it’s more beautiful.

New Look • Expanded Navigation • Improved Search

ApparelNews.net still delivers the same comprehensive intelligence and information on fashion trends and industry news that you’ve come to expect. But now with a faster, more responsive user experience.

Be a part of our launch. Call Terry Martinez at (213) 627-3737 x213

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