The Bush Club Inc., The Greater Blue Mountains National Park- - Tunnel Terrace Gorge, and the plateau on top - from the Old Coach Road – Monday 13th February 2017- Track Notes

Short title Tunnel Terrace Gorge, and the plateau on top Date Monday 13th February 2017 Leader Michael Keats/ Brian Fox Maps, etc. Department of Lands topographic map, 1:25000, Ben Bullen, 8931–4S, second edition, GPS setting, WGS 84. Walk Park at the locked gate on the Old Coach Road. Walk to the junction of the description Pagoda Track, then head up the cliffs to the plateau top. Head directly to GR and route 413 189 to relocate the old infrastructure. Then visit Tunnel Point with views over Tunnel Creek and the Wolgan Valley beyond compare at GR 415 189. From this vantage point follow the western cliff edge of Tunnel Terrace Gorge. We will check out three possible descent points. If all fail we will descend the known route on the eastern side. Once down in the valley we will follow the base of the cliffs back under Tunnel Point, checking for old infrastructure. Return via the Glowworm Tunnel, the Pagoda Track and then the Old Coach Road back to the vehicles. About 8km, 400m +&- Rating 5-6, M, LTW Gear issues BRING A TORCH for the Glowworm Tunnel. Have clothes to change into in the car for afterwards. 2 litres of water. GPS, PLB, appropriate head and footwear, tape (leader), electrolytes, maps, compass. Numbers Max 8, 5 spots available. Meeting Pymble 0545, McDonald’s carpark Richmond 0635, Clarence Zig Zag 0800, point Bungleboori Camping Ground 0820. Transport Club cars. Comments This walk is ambitious and may not be possible to complete. Scrambling, tape work, possible getting wet Close of ASAP Bookings Enquiries Michael Keats [email protected] or Tel 9144 2096 or Brian Fox [email protected] or Tel. 6332 2590

The Party

Michael Keats, leader, Brian Fox, co-leader, Yuri Bolotin, Scott Marshall, Anne Milson, Ian Starkey, Linda Starkey, John Fox, Harold Thompson, members, John Wybrow, prospective member and Thomas Ebersoll, guest, 11.

The Weather

A beautiful crisp morning that became a warm summer day with rising humidity. No clouds and little breeze. Temperature range 16 to 31.

Restructure of the walk

1 Catastrophic fire conditions across the state led to the closure of the Wollemi National Park except for Newnes. The expiry time of the threat for closure of the Wollemi was mid night 12th February 2017. I rang the Blackheath office of the NPWS and spoke to an officer. We discussed the situation and the forecast conditions for 13th February. Noted that the forecast temperature for the day was 25 degrees with the chance of rain. It was advised that the planned walk could go ahead unless there was a fire outbreak in the area.

To obviate the need for last minute changes and or the gates remaining closed prior to our arrival on the Old Coach Road, the walk was started from the ford crossing at Koopartoo. The Pagoda Track section of the walk was abandoned.

Local Names in the area and background details

Wolgan Coal Project.

Opened by Coalex in 1972 & closed in 1974. - October 1978. In the Wolgan area, exploration by Coalex consisted of diamond drilling to test the Katoomba, Wolgan and Lithgow seams, and exploratory underground development of the Katoomba seam in Penrose Adit, and of the Wolgan seam in Newnes Adit and the Wolgan Experimental Mine to obtain bulk samples and investigate ground conditions. In the Wolgan Experimental Mine, Coalex Pty. Limited obtained bulk samples and investigated bord and pillar mining conditions by driving seven parallel headings with cut throughs for the full height of the Wolgan seam with a continuous miner for a distance of some 500 metres from the outcrop portals. There was a marked absence of strata water; the conditions being very dry. The roof consists of 1.2 metres of hard grey mudstone. Initially the roof stood well but since development stopped in 1974 the roof has broken up to the coal parting in numerous places and the mine was officially sealed off in 1977. Restoration work by the NPWS has all but removed any trace of the former mining operation. A concrete water tank and an abandoned power pole is all that remains. 1

Wolgan Valley Railway branched from the Main Western Line at Newnes Junction, GR 443 930, and terminated at Newnes, GR 424 258. Construction of the Wolgan Valley Railway of some 31 miles 50 chains (51km) from Clarence on the Great Western Railway line to Newnes commenced in November 1906 and was effectively completed in November 1907. The line ceased carrying rail traffic in 1937. Ref: Hicks, George and O’Brien, Dennis. Shays in the Valley. According to Bentley, James. Black Smoke. Blue Mountains, 1988, p. 77, the line finally closed in 1932. This private railway line was built to carry oil, wax, sulphate of ammonia, coke and other various products from the Commonwealth Oil Corporation’s shale mine and refinery at Newnes to where it joined the Main Western Line at Newnes Junction. From here, products went on their way to or, in the case of the coke, to the . Ref: Bentley, James. Black Smoke. Blue Mountains and McKillop, Bob. Furnace, Fire and Forge, 2006, pp. 204-205.

Old Coach Road was constructed between Clarence and Newnes and closely follows the route of the former Wolgan Valley Railway line from Clarence. The road is still in use today (from near Deanes Siding, GR 424 140, to the information board at GR 425 180) and is maintained by the National Parks and Wildlife Service in case access is required to fight

1 Based on information from NSW Department of Mineral Resources and papers in the Stephen Imrie collection. 2 bushfires. Alongside a part of this road can be seen steel stanchions and steel bars, which were used to support the petrol pipeline from Glen Davis to Newnes Junction. Cullen Bullen and Ben Bullen Topo Maps. The Lithgow Mercury 8th June 1906, p. 4 records “the road from Clarence to Wolgan is now 21 miles from Clarence, among the gorges. A good road has been found down Penrose Gorge…should be through to Wolgan in a few weeks”.

This road was used in part to deliver construction materials for the Wolgan Valley Railway line (April 1906 -1907) and also to provide access to the new township of Newnes. Ref: Parish of Barton, 1915, notation LB07.921. (Note: LB07 refers to Land Board 1907). A map dated 10th April 1907, which accompanied an application for a Post Office at Greens Camp (near the present day Glowworm Tunnel), shows the name Coach Road.

The term ‘Old Coach Road’ was recorded in Stephens, Eric. Wolgan Railway Notebook, 1934-1937 and Lithgow Mercury 2nd May 1934, p. 4. The railway coach used on the railway line consisted of a general passenger compartment to seat 30, guard’s compartment, a special compartment at the end with folding table and lavatory. The coach was constructed by Metropolitan Amalgamated Railway Coach Works, Lancaster, England.

Petrol Pipeline. In 1937, National Oil Pty Ltd was set up at Glen Davis to produce petrol from kerosene shale. A four inch diameter pipeline was constructed from Glen Davis to Newnes and onto Newnes Junction on the Main Western Line to transfer the petrol to rail. Steel required fort constructing trestles for the pipeline was recycled from the Wolgan Valley Railway lines. The first petrol pumped through the pipeline was on the 23rd July 1941. Ref: Skidmore, J A. Mineral Oil Industry in NSW, 1995, p. 254.

Glowworm Tunnel is located at the northern end of Glowworm Tunnel Road, accessed via Clarence or State Mine Gully, Lithgow. It was here that the old Wolgan Valley Railway line wound around the base of the cliffs, then through a tunnel approximately 400m long. The creek near this tunnel is called Tunnel Creek and has also been referred to as Penrose Creek. This was the second tunnel constructed in 1907 for the railway to Newnes from Newnes Junction, off the Main Western Line. The first tunnel is now vehicular access to the Glowworm Tunnel and about 3km closer towards Lithgow. The Glow Worms are a larval stage of a harmless, luminous species of fungus gnat, family Arachnocampa.

Spelling has varied on different maps, such as Gloworm Tunnel; Ben Bullen Topo, first edition, Glowworm Tunnel Road; Cullen Bullen Topo, second edition, as well as Glow Worm Tunnel and Glow-worm Tunnel, web sites. Ben Bullen Topo Map, GR 416 188. See Book 2, Walk 2.12, for detailed Track Notes.

Tunnel Creek is about 4km in length. It rises about 4.5km east, north east of Wolgan Pinnacle and flows generally north west into the Wolgan River. The Glowworm Tunnel is located midway along Tunnel Creek. This creek was originally named (see) Penrose Creek. Cullen Bullen and Ben Bullen Topo Maps, headwaters GR 415 160, junction GR 240 198. See Book 3, Walk 3.18, for detailed Track Notes.

Sutherland Gully rises on the western side of Tiger Snake Canyon Track and 1km east of the Glowworm Tunnel. It flows for 2.5km generally north west through Coach Galleries over the Pagoda Track and railway alignment and into the Wolgan River. This gully dissects the plateau from the Glowworm Tunnel in the south and Point Sutherland on the north. Donald

3 Sutherland was a Consulting Engineer and General Manager of The Commonwealth Oil Corporation Ltd mine and refinery at Newnes in 1906, at the time when the Wolgan Valley Railway was being constructed. Named on a Bush Club Walk by Michael Keats, Yuri Bolotin and Brian Fox, 27th January 2017. Ben Bullen Topo Map GR 425 189 to 412 207.

Tunnel Point, GR 415 188. This natural edifice commands views over Tunnel Creek to the west that are framed by multi-tiered amphitheatre like walls that in turn frame a view of Donkey Mountain set in harmony in the Wolgan Valley. Almost directly below and beyond sight are the residual remains of the Wolgan Valley Railway and the western entrance of the Glowworm Tunnel.

Tunnel Terrace Gorge is a cliff lined gorge and north south tributary of Tunnel Creek located above and on the northern side of the Glowworm Tunnel, Newnes. Named by Peter Medbury on a bush walk he led in the area in 10th January 2009. Peter records, “Tunnel Terrace Gorge is a large blind canyon behind the Glow Worm Tunnel. The gorge was eroded by a Tunnel Creek tributary. The western walls of the gorge are sheer cliffs topped by fabulous platy pagodas. The eastern wall is a low cliff line decorated with another set of pagodas. Erosion under the western cliffs has created an amazing series of overhangs and terraces along almost the entire length of the gorge. The floor of the gorge is covered with beautiful forest. The northern end of the gorge is dominated by a single tree that towers above the forest and cliff walls. The gorge looks like there is no easy way in or out. On the eastern side, not far from the northern end of the gorge there is a narrow, hidden slot that leads up out of the gorge.” Ben Bullen Topo Map, GR 417 189 to 417 194.

Thomas, John W and Scott take advantage of the ‘seat at the bus stop’ at the junction of the Old Coach Road and the former Wolgan Valley Railway alignment. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

4 Plot of the walk overlaid on a topographic map. Recorded Brian Fox, prepared by Yuri Bolotin.

5 Plot of the walk overlaid on an aerial photograph. Recorded Brian Fox, Prepared by Yuri Bolotin.

Track Notes

The vehicles were parked at GR 412 205 at 0853. As arranged, Thomas Ebersoll was waiting to join the party. At the briefing session explanations were made about the changed format of the walk and that approval for the walk to proceed had been obtained. After crossing a very shallow water flow over the Wolgan River ford we made our way past the new signage and began the climb up to the junction of the Old Coach Road and the former Wolgan Valley 6 Railway alignment, noting the still noticeable scaring from the Coalex experimental mine of the 1970s. Our progress was slowed on several occasions by massive fallen trees. Thomas explained that the wind gusts associated with the catastrophic fire conditions forecast from the previous day had been very destructive. It was fortunate that no fires happened in the area.

Plot of the walk overlaid on a topographic map showing direction of the walk. Recorded and prepared by Harold Thompson.

The junction was reached at 0917, GR 418 208 where a brief drink stop pause provided opportunity to test the new seating. With the signage the area looks like a bus should come along at any minute.

After few smart comments about the poor transport service we set off up the Old Coach Road, negotiating more fallen timber as we went. A stop was made at GR 422 206 for those in the party who had not been to the site where a section of the old petrol pipeline, attachment points and associated telephone service can still be seen. Our next stop was at GR 421 198. Here at the bend on a crest in the road is an example of a hand finished rock cutting. From this high point the road dips down into Sutherland Gully which must be crossed before we could head up onto the plateau. Sutherland Gully separates the northern tip of the plateau from the next section which is circumscribed by Tunnel Creek and the Glowworm Tunnel.

7 Brian and Michael on an easy ramp up from the Old Coach Road at GR 419 194. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

At 1004, after photographing a fine example of the fungus, Amanita ochrophylla, we left the Old Coach Road, GR 420 193 and headed up through big dissected country and discovered an amazing natural graded ramp/slot at GR419 194. The ramp is about 30m long and provides a very easy route to the plateau top. It is also very close to the northern extremity of Tunnel Terrace Gorge.

8 Morning tea was now a high priority. A pagoda with great views south down the ravine of Tunnel Terrace Gorge at GR 417 194 was chosen for a seven minute break. Over morning tea Brian and I studied the map and plotted a course that would take us rather high up along the western cliff line of Tunnel Terrace Gorge to the site of unexplained artefacts that I had first documented on a visit to the area 8th April 2009.

On an outcrop above the western side of Tunnel Terrace Gorge. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

Our chosen route was delightful with many isolated pagodas, separated by low, easily negotiated heath. At GR 416 192 the pagodas were pocked with caves, undercut with ironstone plates just hanging in there and wonderful holes that could be explored, and even hidden in. On top of all this the location is somewhat higher than the surrounding plateau so that views north as far as Tyan Pic on the northern side of the Capertee Valley could be seen.

Leaving all this magic we pushed along heading south and then south west through areas of open rock and sparse growth. At 1101 we found the artefact collection. As well as the steel bar, rusting cans and the meter housing there were shards of broken glasses, half a small clear glass bottle that looked as though it may have contained perfume, an undated beer bottle, a rusting pressure pack can and a fragment of cloth material that appeared to have a plastic surface. The dated beer bottles stamped 1971 could not be found.

Now the questions arise – how, why and when. The answer to the when question is probably 1971-72, based on the previously found bottles. The why question probably related to the Coalex mining group that were mining at the base of cliffs in the Wolgan Valley and exploring the whole of the Wollemi National Park area as well as the Newnes Plateau. The eclectic collection of items I cannot explain. What is remaining is just the detritus of what

9 was. Short of finding field note books from the Coalex Company we will never know. How did the items get where they are? The most reasonable explanation is by helicopter. We do know that diamond drilling was carried out and it could well be that these materials were at a diamond drilling site.

View into the headwaters of Tunnel Terrace Gorge. The descent ramp and slot is in the centre of the picture. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

Time to move along. 1117 saw us at GR 413 189 where we enjoyed stunning views to the west over the Wolgan Valley and to the north west of the southern limits of Honeycomb Canyon. The mix of great pagodas, deeply eroded cliff lines plus stunning vistas is a winning combination. Whilst exploring this area an assembly of rocks was found, GR 0241289 6318917. They were of such a mix and layout that it was not a natural collection. Also there appeared to be one stone pointing south. The inevitable question arose - was this related to the artefacts discovered earlier? Possibly.

Time to move east along the cliff edge above the Wolgan Valley outfall of Tunnel Creek. This area is spectacular beyond the norm. The hundred metre + drop into Tunnel Creek features three distinct cliff lines. I was reminded of this later in the walk when I was in Tunnel Creek looking up from GR 414 187. Although the cliff appears almost vertical from the point it is stepped back in the lower levels and even Tunnel Point at GR 415 188 is back 100m.

Here the group split into two parties, one doing a continuation of the cliff edge walk and the other positioning itself in anticipation of the Tunnel Terrace Gorge western cliff line adventure.

10 Telephoto picture of Tayan Pic across the Wolgan Capertee divide. Foreground cliffs are of the western wall of the Wolgan Valley. Photo: Yuri Bolotin. View through a horizontal slot in a pagoda above Tunnel Terrace Gorge. Photo: Ian Starkey.

At 1215, GR 415 190 the group became one again and it was time to test the cliff line for possible descent points into Tunnel Terrace Gorge.

While the cliffs were magical they were also impregnable. There was no way we could find a way down- every prospect ended with a shear drop. So we continued along the cliff edge skirting pagoda after pagoda, and when time and free hands permitted, taking a picture or two.

11 Ian explores a special pagoda. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

Harold, Brian, Michael and John W at the artefact site, GR 415 191. Photo: Yuri Bolotin. By 1236 we had reached the northern end of Tunnel Terrace Gorge and crossed over at the saddle that separates the watershed from Sutherland Gully.

12 Exploring the cliff edge above Tunnel Creek and the Glowworm Tunnel. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

Donkey Mountain and Wolgan Valley above the southern end of Honeycomb Canyon. Photo: Scott Marshall.

13 John Ian and Thomas enjoy the view south from Tunnel Point. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

The classic view of Donkey Mountain above Tunnel Creek from Tunnel Point. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

14 Thomas in the slot access into Tunnel Terrace Gorge. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

15 The shear parallel walls of the slot pass in Tunnel Terrace Gorge. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

Linda negotiates the natural tunnel in Tunnel Terrace Gorge. Photo: Ian Starkey.

1244 saw five of the party descend a slot at GR 417 194. It did not look doable but we knew the way down was nearby. We came back up and decided that as it was now 1256 we should have lunch. While most of us tucked in. Yuri went exploring and discovered that the group of five had fallen for the counterintuitive section in this pass/slot.

It is a pass where after you have gone down about 20m you then climb up a minor slot hard against the cliff line, and that over the hump the slot leads all the way down.

16 Rusting artefacts at GR 415 191. Photo: Brian Fox.

The descent, including the internal ascent section, is amazing. Narrow, parallel sided, with easy negotiable drops this slot delivers a great experience to the explorer all the way to the bottom of the gorge. Previously when Brian, Yuri and I did this walk with Peter Medbury we climbed this slot2. There is a lot more to see in Tunnel Terrace Gorge.

The floor of the gorge is initially confined to the watercourse and there is a lot of scrambling and negotiating fallen timber to make progress. At about GR 417 193 there is a natural ‘tunnel’ created by a fallen rock slab. It is about 4m long and a tight squeeze in places. A tributary creek cuts in from the eastern side at GR 417 190. Brian had recollections of coming down the lower section of this creek. I could not recall it at all.

2 12th August 2011. 17 A cliff edge slot down Tunnel Creek near Tunnel Point. Photo: Brian Fox.

As we went further downstream the gorge widened and developed a floor; walking became easier and we could now spend more time in an upright position without continuous limbo rock like movements At 1400 we popped out of dense bush and onto the Glowworm Tunnel Track about 20m from the tunnel entrance, GR 417 188.

Time for a quick drink, locating headlight torches and adjusting the eyes to semi darkness. The Glow Worms were in short supply with only three mediocre sightings. It was 1417, GR 414 187 when we exited the tunnel into a still wonderful forest of Soft Tree Ferns, Dicksonia antarctica. Despite the heavy foot traffic and idiots who do graffiti the area is in remarkably good condition. Here I was interested to check on how our position in Tunnel Creek correlated with Tunnel Point. The high point where we had been earlier is at GR 415 188, about 100m further east and 100m further north and of course 160m higher.

Erosion of the old Wolgan Valley Railway formation in this area by Tunnel Creek over the last 80 years has meant the walking track has lots of ups and downs until the old formation heads north west out of the creek at GR 411 188. Between the end of the tunnel and more level walking there is a long, high level overhang that still has artefacts from the WVR days. Some of the party did a short detour to explore.

Out of the forest and the cool of Tunnel Creek the sun blazed down on us, reinforced by reflected heat from the cliffs. By the time we reached the junction with the old Coach Road at 1512, GR 418 208 the mercury was sitting at 30 degrees. The sun temperature was several degrees hotter. The vehicles were reached at 1526. Total distance 13.5km, Total ascents 482m

18 John Linda, Anne, Michael and Yuri in the upper reaches of the slot descent into Tunnel Terrace Gorge. Photo: Brian Fox.

John in a perforation hole, rock platform above Tunnel Terrace Gorge. Photo: Brian Fox.

19 Linda, Ian Anne, Thomas, Harold, John F and John W. with new signage, eastern side of the Wolgan River ford, Scott studies another sign Photo: Brian Fox.

Table of Times, Locations and Grid References

Time Location Grid Reference 0853 Park vehicles on the Wolgan Road GR 412 208 0900 Cross the Wolgan River + briefing + new signage GR 412 207 0917 Junction, WVR formation and Old Coach Road GR 418 208 0930 Inspect relics of the Glen Davis – Newnes Junction pipeline GR 422 206 0954 Bend in the Old Coach Road GR 421 198 1004 Leave the Old Coach Road GR 420 193 1012 30m slot with easy grade ramp to the plateau top GR 419 194 1022 Morning tea, 7 minutes above Tunnel Terrace Gorge GR 417 194 1047 Exploring pagodas on western side of Tunnel Terrace Gorge GR 416 192 1058 On open rock platform GR 415 192 1101 At old artefacts site GR 415 191 1117 Stunning views north as far as Tayan Pic GR 413 189 1132 On old marker possibly related to the old artefacts GR 413 189 1142 Views over Tunnel Creek GR 412 188 1154 Party dives into two- (visit to Tunnel Point) GR 414 190 1200 Heading north along western edge of Tunnel Terrace Gorge GR 415 190 1236 North end of Tunnel Terrace Gorge GR 417 194

20 1244 Testing slot down into Tunnel Terrace Gorge GR 417 194 1256 Lunch, 20 minutes GR 418 194 1316 Commence descent down the counterintuitive slot GR 417 194 1326 Base of slot descent GR 417 189 1340 Natural Tunnel in Tunnel Terrace Gorge GR 417 193 1345 Side creek- gully GR 417 190 1400 Glowworm Tunnel entrance GR 417 188 1417 Exit Glowworm Tunnel GR 414 187 1428 Exploring ledge GR 413 187 1512 Junction, WVR formation and Old Coach Road GR 418 208 11526 At vehicles GR 412 208

Michael Keats for The Bush Club Inc., 15th February 2017

Yuri’s photos http://yuribolotin.jalbum.net/Tunnel%20Creek%20North%20and%20the %20plateau%20on%20top-130217/

On the way to Tunnel Point with Tunnel Creek hidden below. Photo: Yuri Bolotin.

BCSNW Tunnel Terrace Gorge 130217- Track Notes /MK

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