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1 Family Highlights of the Greek Islands

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2 1 Family Highlights S ing clear thatboatsseemtofloatinmid-air. Craggy menintavernas, play- climes.Consider:seaso especially onthosewholive incoldernorthern grip thatthisscatteringofislandshasontheEuropean imagination– Eastern Mediterranean. are scattered across astaggering750000square kilometres ofthe tics: there are 3000Greek Islands, about170oftheminhabited. They tarnished by theover-familiarities ofmasstourism. uine warmthinthewaywhichGreeks greet Brits whichhasn’t been arms during World War II. Whatever thereason, there isoftenagen- Lord Byron), becausetheBritish partly andGreeks were comrades-in- (you’llcentury comeacross manystreets, andGreeks, namedafter Greece duringits War ofIndependence from the Turks inthe19th posed towards Brits. becauseofBritish for This ispartly support Greece. things happenedtomydaughterandherkidswhenholidayingin stop toplaywith,dandleandadmire athree-year-old boy? Boththese the parents couldfinishtheirmeal,oragroup ofadolescentyouths dren. wouldrestaurant In staffholdababy sothat whatothercountry argument. Politics. Honour. Philosophy. Above all,familyandchil- savvy withadeepfeelingforwhat’s inlife. important Thought and But it’s notjustthat. The Greeks successfullycombine21st-century mountains,cobaltseasandpicturesqueall thoserugged fishingboats. Magazine with ourgrandchildren. Eventually, towritefor Istarted around Greece –withtoddlers,thenteenagers,onourown, then law’s cookingIlearnedtolove Greek food.My wifeandIoftendrove We married. We honeymoonedinGreece. Through mymother-in- with Greece. that’s where we canhelp. toseemlikethelaboursof Hercules.successful tripstarts Don’t fret – ing presents, havingfamily arguments –andthetaskoforganisinga ing, barbecuesonthebeach,arcade games,goingtothepictures, buy- you-drop, alcohol-(andworse)fuelledyouth excess. holidays anddance-til- giant hotels,coast-to-coastvillas,battery-farm sand beneathloftybare grey mountains. You know thekindofstuff. white cottagesclimbingsteeplyfrom azure seas,crescents ofgolden The coldfacts,however, don’t comeanywhere nearreflecting the Okay, somuchfor Greece, butwhytheislands?First some statis- It’s undoubtedlythecase,too,that the Greeks seemtobewell dis- I can’t begintosayhow beautifulGreece is.Physically, ofcourse– Fit allthisaround therangeofthingsyou doonholiday–sightsee- There’s another sidetotheGreek Islands, it’s Mass true. tourism, tavli group offellowstudentsinabattered oldvan,I’vebeeninlove ince Ifirstvisitedthecountryinsummerof1965,witha . Old womenleadingdonkeysladenwithfirewood. Blue-and- . My passionforGreece isnofad. A monthafterreturning toEngland, ImetaGreek girl. Greece Best Family Experiences 3 in the Mustafa Jersey tiger moths Jersey through the damp, through a donkey up the hill to Hamam Turkish Baths in Baths Turkish Hamam 93). (see p. Town Rhodes the Acropolis at Lindos in cen- at Lindos the Acropolis 103). tral Rhodes (see p. Sweating Spotting Walking Riding dark tunnel (or not!) at Epta dark 111). in Rhodes (see p. Piges from the paths, steps and bridges from in of the Butterflies Valley of the 112). Rhodes (see p. on the from Kanoni at from a family day at one of So, which islands are the best for families? Out of 170 inhabited Out best for families? the islands are which So, that balance of a comfortable want if you place to stay with But Corfu, Crete up with a string of hits are The islands that come has everything that I love Evia, here, The fourth island covered Enough said. Let’s take a look at the pick of the bunch. said. Let’s Enough the jets thundering in across the the jets thundering in across Vlacherna to land at of convent Corfu 55). Airport (see p. Looking down Spending BEST FAMILY BEST FAMILY EXPERIENCES People-watching Esplanade in Corfu Town at one Town Esplanade in Corfu 47). cafés (see p. of the Liston’s Corfu, Rhodes or Crete’s splen- Corfu, Rhodes or Crete’s 4). (see p. did water parks islands, only veryislands, only of tastes the variety enough to cater for big few are for beach-and- looking you’re If family. in the average and ages found just want a you will fit the bill. If almost any one simplicity taverna almost any country the Mediterranean on holiday, sea-and-sun resort the Caribbean. Or want. what you you can give history and culture, some Greek trips out, lots to do, some interesting packed lunch), nice views own fix your and good places to eat (or to Internet about everythingtogether with information car hire from – in other are parks and theme the best playgrounds cafés, or where can appeal to everybody a family holiday which in the clan – words, look no further. yet infrastructure, all got a terrific tourist They have and Rhodes. They culture. Greek their own retained to have big enough they’re and complicated history an extended have with all sorts of interesting – – and positive strong That they all have back-waters to explore. can watch you why That’s connections with the UK is an added plus. kidnap of in Corfu, visit the site of the British-led cricket on the green in Rhodes. Smith or climb Mount Crete, in General a German his- has lots of It in itself. interesting about a holiday destination. It’s inhabitants in the south of the – though most Greek typically It’s tory. totally untouristy – many guide- Albanian in origin. It’s island are to its popularity as a destina- owing include it – yet, even books don’t and offers tourist infrastructure, it has a reasonable tion for Greeks, penin- the Pelion access to other wonderful places like the Sporades, itself. and Athens Marathon, around sula, the area 04_518618 ch01.qxp 1/16/08 10:49 PM Page 3 Page PM 10:49 1/16/08 ch01.qxp 04_518618 04_518618 ch01.qxp1/16/0810:49PMPage4

4 1 Family Highlights Aqualand, Corfu Lunar Park(Rhodes) Aqualand (Corfu) ATTRACTIONS BEST CHILDREN’S Feeding by staff(seep.entertained 142). the younger children are being Park, justoutside Chania,whilst ing ormini-golfinGolden Fun ten-pin bowling, pool,go-kart- Having Wandering funfair inthecentre ofFaliraki, (see p. 139). ing atthefascinatingexhibits Navalwonderful Museum, look- (see p. 57). works. Agreat familydayout food anddrinkoutlets–the range ofslides,tubes,pools, where ontheisland,withawide accessiblefrom every- Corfu, park rightinthecentre of Vamos inCrete (seep. 147). Ark’,pony at‘The justoutside family competitionsat the animalsorridinga around Chania’s A hugewater A noisy indoor (pool,ten-pinbowling) and (bouncy castles,go-karts) to doforallthefamily, outdoor facility,brand new withenough worth adaytrip(seep.worth 102). you’re stayinginRhodes,it’s built by thesamefirm. Wherever water parks –perhapsthey’re all now seemstandard inholiday has alltheslidesandridesthat rides, Hydropolis, onthenorth with manyofthesameslidesand Almost onaparwithAqualand, Hydropolis Water Park(Corfu) The Water Park(Rhodes) Golden FunPark(Crete) 63). p. small zoo andanicebeach(see Gelina Village Resort, witha the advantage thatit’s nexttothe usually lesscrowded. It alsohas and and lesswidelyadvertised, islessaccessible coast ofCorfu, it (seep. 102). UK). You’ll eitherlove itorhate that have disappeared from the ever likelytowant (andsome with alltheridesandstallsyou’re A This Best Castles 5 Looking terrific views they offer across coun- the surrounding the town, tryside 41). and the sea (see p. like a fictional fairytale of version castle should be what a medieval (thanks in part to restoration the the Italians), done by work gives Masters of the Grand Palace and sheer an idea of the presence bulk of ancient fortifications (see 95). p. impressive crag above the crag above impressive 107). (see p. Mediterranean Gardiki Fortress (Corfu) Fortress Gardiki abandoned in the middle Totally of the countryside near Corfu’s the Gardiki Lake Korission, with its overgrown Fortress, stonework and goats, is wonder- 70). fully atmospheric (see p. The Palace of the Grand Masters (Rhodes) Monolithos Castle (Rhodes) not much to see Though there’s actually get into it, when you a distance the castle has a from fairytale on its aspect, perched Corfu A lovely little A lovely Town’s two huge fortresses are two huge fortresses Town’s worth visiting, not only in their right, but also for the own back to life, and, for obvious usually they reasons, defensive wonderfulhave views. The Old and the New (Corfu) Fortresses BEST CASTLES much of make don’t The Greeks just their castles – many are crumbling under shells, slowly the assault of time and the it needs only a little Yet weather. imagination to bring them Asterakia, Evia attrac- to make it an all-weather 142). tion (see p. Asterakia (Evia) suitable for younger children, suitable for younger with enough to keep teens and 187). (see p. adults happy as well funfair on the banks of the – a bit like a travelling Euripos fair that stays put. Particularly 04_518618 ch01.qxp 1/16/08 10:49 PM Page 5 Page PM 10:49 1/16/08 ch01.qxp 04_518618 04_518618 ch01.qxp1/16/0810:49PMPage6

6 1 Family Highlights collection ofseashells,stuffed ShellCorfu Museum hasafine of Benitses, the the outskirts The ShellMuseum(Corfu) EXPERIENCES BEST WILDLIFE row straits(seep. 187). across thenar- views wonderful high above Evia’s capital,giving empty, KaraBaba Fortress stands Kara Baba(Evia) Frangokastello (Crete) Fortezza (Crete) Palace oftheGrandMasters,Rhodes warfare and piracy(seep. 157). sents anenticingcombinationof Rethymnon, theFortezza repre- ing distanceofthecentre of p. 154). ghost-story,with ascary too(see lovely sandybeach.It comes impressive shelldominatinga south coast,Frangokastello isan Within walk- Massive and On the On little valley (seep. 112). their thousandsinthisstunning Jersey tigermoths,fluttering in (Rhodes) Valley oftheButterflies inside (seep. 114). so you canseewhat’s goingon including hives madeofPerspex honey-producing friends– All you needtoknow aboutour The BeeMuseum(Rhodes) The OstrichFarm(Rhodes (Rhodes) The Hydrological Institute whilst snorkelling (seep. 98). onlyglimpse you mightotherwise offish and offersclose-upviews tipoftheisland, the northernmost the RhodesAquarium, itsitson camels you canride(seep. 113). of otheranimals,including Ostriches, ofcourse,butalsolots denizens ofthedeep(seep. 68). sharks, crabs,lobstersandother Otherwise known as Otherwise Not but butterflies ) Best Beaches 7 One One canal Streams, Acres of Acres The road Unique because Unique Spili’s platia (square) Spili’s to find eternal love; par- to find eternal love; Islands, especially on beaches or especially on Islands, need is a – all you in woodland and some shade. place to sit woodland with free access just woodland with free pick your south of the capital; 56). p. spot and tuck in (see of the sinuous shapes of the teenagers sandstone cliffs. Older might want to swim the d’amour already ents, of course, have 62). found it (see p. plenty of cold running water from 162). 25 lion-head spouts (see p. is a lovely place to unpack the is a lovely sandwiches – lots of shade and Prokopi (Evia) Prokopi BEST BEACHES hun- have Islands The Greek beaches – part of of great dreds own the fun is finding your though, have A few, favourite. something extra special. Sidari (Corfu) Paleokastritsa (Corfu) Mon Repos (Corfu) Mon Repos Epta Piges (Rhodes) and waterfalls,rocks ducks keening, quacking and peacocks of the trees all under the shade 111). (see p. Spili (Crete) Paleokastritsa also boasts a Paleokastritsa choice of wonderful beaches and of Corfu’s loveliest villages, loveliest of Corfu’s between Prokopi and Madouni Prokopi between with lit- is ideal picnic territory, tle pebble beaches along the river 190). and lots of shade (see p. Whichever Though princi- A well-organised little shell and sealife museum just outside Agiokampos on 193). north coast (see p. Evia’s BEST PICNIC AREAS a pleasant picnic can have You in the Greek virtually anywhere Nautilus (Evia) Diving (all islands) A resident of The Ark, Crete A resident The Ark (Crete) grounds with views of the White with viewsgrounds of the 147). (see p. Mountains pally an ostrich farm, the Ark has lots of other animals to look at and ride, all set in beautiful equipment, or with one from the equipment, or with one from many diving schools. island you’re on, there’s always on, there’s island you’re the opportunity of seeing won- fish swim- derful Mediterranean ming in crystal clear waters, snorkelling own either with your 04_518618 ch01.qxp 1/16/08 10:49 PM Page 7 Page PM 10:49 1/16/08 ch01.qxp 04_518618 04_518618 ch01.qxp1/16/0810:49PMPage8

8 1 Family Highlights .117). p. Prassonissi isadelight (see Rhodes, thedoublebayof ing rightonthesoutherntipof vista ofsand,seaandwindsurf- .69). p. wander upintothevillage(see teenagers getbored, theycan of thecliffsdelightful,andif Agios Gordios issandy, theview Corfu’s west coast,thebeachat Paleokastritsa, Corfu Elli Beach(Rhodes) Prassonissi (Rhodes) Agios Gordios (Corfu) you couldaskfor (seep. 64). setting but inthemostperfect coves sandy, –notparticularly and quiet,though(seep. 98). ple watching.Don’t expectpeace the with sun-umbrellas, electricwith Rhodes Town, isforyou. Ablaze Harbour totheAquarium in stretches from Mandraki themselves, Elli Beach, which daymakers andlocalssunning ideal beachispackedwithholi- zeitgeist , it’s forpeo- perfect If your A great On lovely littlebeachrightinfront only onfootorby boat,hasa Crete’s southcoastandaccessible but aGreek island(seep. 153). You couldn’t beanywhere else nas, andthere are boatsforhire. and foodatthecaféstaver- tered spot,you cangetdrinks houses ofthevillage.It’s ashel- of thestackedwhiteandblue (see p. 105). appreciated itsfamilypotential in between –you canbeginto and lotsofrestaurants andcafés indoor playarea attheother, ground atoneend, Planet Z things forkidstodo–aplay- when you consider thewealth of coast, isn’t uptomuch,but Bay, onRhodes’ northwest pebbly beachitselfat Trianda Loutro (Crete) Trianda Bay(Rhodes) Maleme (Crete friendly cafésandbars–there’s uncrowded, withloadsofchild- the beachatMaleme islongand along thecoast,west ofChania, Loutro, on ) Facing north The Best Views 9 After a Climb up As you top the As you From the terrace of this From Corfu, the views of country, are Sea coast and the Ionian 71). spectacular (see p. the spiral staircase inside the the spiral staircase and, vertigopermit- giant cross Rhodes’ ting, look out across 115)! coast – terrific (see p. west gentle climb (or road-train ride) gentle climb (or road-train Smith, to the summit of Monte like you lies before Town Rhodes 99). a pictorial map (see p. beautiful monastery, enjoy vistas enjoy beautiful monastery, of surf-ringed and cliffs rocks like something out of an 18th- century painting (see Romantic 65). p. work of fields–so unexpected in work the arid mountains of western The Monastery of Theotokou (Corfu) Filerimos (Rhodes) Monte Smith (Rhodes) Askifou (Crete) rise and start down to drive first Askifou, your towards patch- glimpse of the plateau’s ) Do The beach west If it’s good enough for Kaiser it’s If good enough for II, it’s Wilhelm in western Pelekas us. Above BEST VIEWS (Corfu Throne The Kaiser’s or play on the sand or in the whilst you playground, children’s the adjacent cafés a drink in have 193). and bars (see p. Karystos (Evia) Loutro better to watch the sun nowhere 141). (see p. go down Loutra Edipsou (Evia) do in this town what the Greeks – bring your in northern Evia kids to the beach, let them swim of Karystos, on Evia’s southern of Karystos, on Evia’s goes on for miles, and is tip, one It’s crowded. never therefore in of the best beaches anywhere clean, sandy, Islands: the Greek along its whole with parking 200). length (see p. 04_518618 ch01.qxp 1/16/08 10:49 PM Page 9 Page PM 10:49 1/16/08 ch01.qxp 04_518618 04_518618 ch01.qxp1/16/0810:49PMPage10

10 1 Family Highlights from thesouth,mountainshang Approaching Gorge theDerveni Derveni Gorge(Evia) (see p. 140). Chania. Try tobethere atsunset also, surely, across fortheview of itshistoricalsignificance,but because site forhisgrave partly Eleftherios Venizelos chosethis The Venizelos Graves(Crete) p. 150). Crete–takes thebreath away(see The Kaiser’s Throne, Corfu as you gethigher(seep. 200). getsevenOchi better –theview even tothesummitofMount climb uptoCastelRosso, or beyond. If you’re feelingfit, ofthetowna view andthesea Myli, above opensup Karystos, Myli (Evia) of goatbells(seep. 190). is thesmellofpineandclang against thesky, andeverywhere The drive upto