Couture techniques Stabilize with an internal ribbon stay for improving Incorporating an internal ribbon stay into a waistband strengthens it and helps it better withstand long-term use. Commercial stabilizers are available, but the durability preference for couture garments is petersham grosgrain ribbon. Petersham is firm, but its scalloped edges enable it to be shaped into gentle curves. A 1-inch- and comfort wide petersham stabilizes a waistband beautifully. Certainly, incorporating a petersham stay adds another layer to an already- By Susan Khalje substantial quantity of layers in a waistband. However, if you control the layers and align them carefully, the results are well worth the effort. Add a petersham stay after basting the garment’s shell and together. Cut the petersham ribbon 4 inches longer than the waistline measurement. waistband is a straightforward part Place one long edge of the petersham just a hair above the garment's waistband of a garment. At its most elemental, stitching line. The petersham tails extend an equal length past the garment A it secures an item of clothing to the opening on each side. Hand-baste the petersham’s bottom edge to the garment wearer’s waistline. But with a little extra allowance. engineering, a waistband can achieve its For the waistband, cut one 4-inch-wide fashion fabric strip (on the straight grain) the waistline length, plus 4 inches. The finished waistband is 1 inch wide. purpose with more polish, comfort, and The seam allowances are also 1 inch wide to place a buffer between the fabric stability. and the petersham's top edge, which could show through on lightweight fabrics, Because bodies typically are bigger above such as the challis used below. A thick or dense fashion fabric may conceal the and below the waistline, the waist is the most ribbon's edge, and the seam allowance could be reduced. Build a Better logical area from which to securely suspend Align the waistband, right side down, to the garment’s waistline edge. The a skirt or a pair of trousers. So a waistband waistband stitching line should rest just a hair below the petersham’s lower acts as an anchor of sorts. However, the waist edge. Sew the waistband to the garment by machine. It’s helpful to first hand- is far from stable or stationary: It twists, baste it in place to prevent the fabric from stretching during machine stitching turns, stretches, expands, and contracts as and to prevent stitching through the petersham. Press the waistband upward, we walk, bend, sit, or tuck in a shirt. To be toward the garment edge, wrong sides together. Then, fold it to the garment’s an effective anchor, a garment’s waistband wrong side along the petersham’s top edge, enclosing the ribbon. To complete the waistband, read “Finish a waistband perfectly,” page 47. needs to be firm and well supported, yet comfortable; easy to open and close, but also secure when fastened. And because the waistband endures the stress of movement, it also needs to be sturdy enough to resist Waistband stretching and sagging. Why make a beauti- ful garment that will outlast its waistband? Petersham Details like built-in ribbon stays, bulk- free layers, perfectly placed , Baste a petersham ribbon above a skirt's and durable stitches set apart the refined Waistband stitching line waistband stitching waistbands of couture garments from their line, then attach the average counterparts. A couture waistband is waistband just below stronger, more stable, and more user friendly the ribbon's edge. Create stronger, more stable, when worn. couture waistbands with In this article, I’ll share how I sew waist- Waistband stitching line internal ribbon stays, bulk-free bands using couture construction and layers, and securely stitched finishing techniques for garments that will fasteners. withstand many years of wear. Waistband (WS) Threads contributing editor Susan Khalje is an expert on couture garment construction.

44 THREADS www.threadsmagazine.com February/March 2013 45 Reduce waistband bulk with a Finish a waistband perfectly

The typical waistband is a single fabric strip folded a number of times Regardless of which waistband type you use and where the garment opens, the lengthwise. If your fashion fabric is thick or heavyweight, a standard waistband waistband ends need special treatment. As you fold, press, and stitch to finish can result in unnecessary bulk. Instead, construct a faced waistband using the waistband, measure carefully and often. The waistband ends should be the a lighter-weight fabric, such as lining, for the facing. A faced waistband is same width when finished, but it can be difficult to maintain a consistent width assembled from two fabric strips: the fashion fabric on the exterior and the through the waistband's entire length. lining fabric on the interior. This reduces the waistband’s thickness and makes it The waistband closure's orientation depends somewhat on whether the easier to handle during sewing, as well as more comfortable to wear. wearer is left- or right-handed. For a center-back opening, right-handed Cut two 2-inch-wide strips of fabric—one from fashion fabric and one from individuals require the waistband underlap on the left side (as worn); reverse lining—each the length of the waistline measurement, plus 4 inches. If the the orientation for left-handed individuals. For a side-opening garment, the fashion fabric is very bulky, adjust the waistband width to accommodate the waistband's back extension underlaps the opening's edge. Whether the opening 1 fabric's turn of cloth. Place the strips right sides together, and sew them along is at the garment's back or its side, the underlap extends 1 ⁄2 inches beyond the 1 one lengthwise edge. Use a ⁄2-inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance garment opening. But the method for creating square, even ends is the same for open. Then, fold the waistband wrong sides together and press again. The both waistband types and both closure orientations. seamline runs along the waistband’s top edge. Start by trimming each petersham end to match the waistband’s finished If you’re adding an internal petersham stay to the waistband, baste the ribbon length. Then, fold the waistband end seam allowances over the petersham ends in place (see paragraph three in “Stabilize with an internal ribbon stay,” page 45). and press. Next, fold under the waistband’s long raw edge and press. Trim away 1 Then, sew the waistband to the garment using a ⁄2-inch seam allowance. With some of the interior bulk, if necessary. Turn the waistband over the garment's raw the fashion fabric’s right sides together, align the waistband’s stitching line with edge. Double-check the width of the waistband ends and adjust as necessary. the garment’s waistband stitching line, below the petersham’s lower edge. Sew Then, sew small fell stitches at the waistband ends to secure the folded layers. the waistband in place on the right side. Press it toward the waistline edge, wrong Pin the waistband’s folded long edge in place on the garment's wrong side, at sides together. Fold it to the garment’s wrong side, enclosing the petersham. the waistband seamline. Secure it with fell stitches, catching just the garment lining in the stitches.

Waistband (RS) Garment waistline (WS) Folded waistband end

Waistband facing

Seamline at the top edge

Petersham stay on the garment's right side Waistband facing

Hanging loop (see page 49)

Garment waistline (WS) Folded waistband edge

A tweed skirt is a perfect Waistband sewn candidate for to skirt's right a facing that side Fold the long raw edge. helps create a smooth, flat, Lightweight wool challis and bulk-free SkirT lining requires internal support for waistband. Folded waistband end a firm, stable waistband. Pattern: Butterick 5391 Pattern: Butterick 5285

Fold the waistband ends over the cut petersham ends, then fold under the Sew the waistband to the garment on the right side. Press it up to enclose the ribbon waistband's long raw edge. Make sure the waistband end is the same width on stay, then fold it to the garment's wrong side, pressing along the top seamline. both sides of the garment opening.

46 THREADS www.threadsmagazine.com February/March 2013 47 waistband underlap. the waistband's ends.the Snapsare on placed Hooks andeyes,thread bars, or are at placed 48 their eyelets aretheir eyelets concealed (right). findingsusingalocking stitch(left).Sew Hooks may beinstalledbeforethe waistband so finishing snap Covered

THREADS Locking stitch Hooks Thread bars Tightenthreadto create reststhat the finding'sbase. tiny bead at a Follow Take anotherstitch, before but the loop,tightening through it. the needle slip the finding’stakethroughthe waistband and onestitch eyelet from underneath. sew findingssecurely. to move;them allow ineffect,themselvesthey saw off. to Usealockingstitch Findings oftentheir waythem to attach work the stitchesused loosebecause Sewing hooks, eyes, andsnaps Knot the endofadoubled, Knot waxed, andpressedthread. thread the in Anchor concealed Hook eyelets socket section on the waistband on underlap.socket section snap’sthe waistband’s on ballsection underside, the with hand.the dominant to dowith the socket iseasier Soplace wearer’s body. To securethe snap, the the ballinto pushing slipping above the waistbandthe orfolding backagainst Snaps helpsecure awaistband’s underlap, keeping from it Snap placement hand'sside. nondominant side, andplaceunderlaps, metaleyes,thread or barsonyour opening.garment Soplacehooks onyour hand's dominant Your handmakes dominant themotionrequired to closea Hook-and-eye placement no-show finish. oriented forthe wearer’s useandfor easeof aquality, a )andgive extra security. Findings shouldbe closurethe primary (usually on awaistbandto augment “findings”—aretypically employed assecondary closures Hooks andeyes, aswell assnaps—often referredto as closuressecondary Orient andsecure the hooks. stitches tothe petersham to secure waistband end’s foldline. Anchoryour the hook soitseyelets inside rest just concealthe hook'seyelets. Placeeach waistband’s endbefore it’s finished, to stitches oneachquadrant. you’re sewingasnap,three two or use the finding’s contours asyou stitch. If Hooks also can be sewn to the the Hooksto alsocanbesewn Log Log ThreadsMagazine.com technique,insertion to go For SusanKhalje’s avideoof hook

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Photos: (p. 44; p. 46, left; and p. 47, right) Jack Deutsch, stylist: Jessica Saal, hair and makeup: Patrycja for Halley Resources; all others, Sloan Howard. Styling credits: (p. 44, right, and p. 46) top—BCBGeneration (Macys.com), camisole—(AnnTaylor.com), necklace—A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz (Bloomingdales.com), earrings—Kenneth Cole (Macys.com); (p 44, left, and p. 47) top—(Express.com) www.threadsmagazine.com should beabout the garment’s onahangerfrom weight four points. Another clever feature for awaistband hangingloops. isapairof They distribute Hanging loops thread iswaxedthat withadoubled the garment to andpressed. sections whileyouthe socket'sthe socket section sew covering inplace. the snap Sew you’re sewing. Onewaythe covered-ballto preventto snap this is into section the ballsection, andit’sto flipover easyfor asyou it work,take so care as the socket’sin fabric covering. than isalittlemoreThe socket section slippery the fabrictwo halvestogether willcreatethe first. Snapping anindentation fingernail. Coverthe sameway, the socket section it’sto pierce but necessary not fabric. Trimtuft fabric, of offthe the remaining andflatten edgeswithyour the fabric. Next, sewseveral stitchesacrosstheback, throughthe sewingonly snap’s backside—throughthefabrictighten only—usingsmallbackstitchesto lightly,running stitchandgather it makingapouch. Then, stitcharoundthe coveringthe snap, stitcharoundthe fabric circle’s outeredgeswithalong the fabric,hole in andforcethe snap’s through ballit. For easierhandlingwhile usually covered liningfabric. withasmallpieceof the coutureIn tradition covering of upasmuchmetalpossible, snapsare Covered snaps closely packed.threadthe endwithafew Securethe at small, stitches. tight the entire bariscovered,threadsthey’rethe base so the knotsdownalong sliding the smallloopcreated from underneath,the loopclosed.then pull Repeat until threads,base the way of through. most andpullit Pass through the needleback the way,thread of the out to hold Use yourthumb the the needleunder slide side,the first again. anchoringit These fourthread strands formthe bar'sbase. overthe waistband's surface,the oppositeside, on andanchorit then returnto threadthe bar'splacement,the ononesideof the knot.thread Draw hiding the them,thread iswaxedthat doubled beginwithalengthof andpressed. Anchor Thread barsare often metaleyes usedinplaceof incouture garments. To sew Thread bars explainedthe previous on pages. Below arethe couturethree complementthat techniques construction enhanceawaistband.There are avariety further that smallfinishingdetails of Complementary details the waistband,their endsare so concealed. seams. Stitchinplacebyhandormachine. Installhanging loopsbefore finishing the waistline, to the side each loopperpendicular to eitherside of 3inches about Install hangingloops before finishingagarment's waistband. Sew two tubes fromtwo liningfabric,Sew the straight on grain. cut Press flat. Each acircle liningfabric of Cut the snap.than larger With anawl, make asmall 3 ⁄ 8 inchwideand8incheslongwhenfinished. the endsof Place Hanging loop Garment (W S)

length,the other. of top stackingoneon threads' formed the base each knot down thread barsusingahalf-hitch Sew stitch. Slide section, withstitches. tightening it liningfabric apouchof Sew around asnap Cover lining fabric. of metalsnapswith apiece pouch closed. Stitch the snap set Completed covered February/ M ar c h 2013 thread bar Half-hitch 49