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f rorn tilr i"eaa€.5 woo0wo ri( i i--: c esse n i ia ls Tips&Techniques ...... 4 Seamless Edging ...... 42 Here are the tips and tricks we use t0 guarantee perfect panels. all abc,,rl edging on plywood \\bd.smrh i Knock-DownFasteners ...... 8 @ffi Take a look at some handy hardware that makes wLri'k,nq wrtli tooi: assembling and disassembling projects a breeze. Avoiding RouterTable Tearout. . . . .44 It's easy t0 tame tearout on the table by tccls ot the lrarle following a few basic guidelines. Secrets to a Smooth Surface . . . . .10 A couple of traditional hand tools can take the iinr:ilinq rooni hard work out of smoothing a workpiece. A Distressed Milk Finish . . . . .46 We'll show you how to give your project the .1igs enil f r;

Glass-Panel Coffee t'lable pase22 Frame and Easel page 18

Woodsmith No. 184 editor's note i\-

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o doubt you've heard the saying about how you can,t teach projects an old dog new tricks. The same thing can probably be said of many woodworkers. We tend to get comfortable with certain weekend project types of joinery ormethods of doing things, and thenrarelyventure Frame and Easel 18 outside of our own comfort zone. This beautiful frame and easel is guaranteed to put One area of that has always appeared a little a favorite family photo in the best light. After an intimidating to me is carving. It seems like a painstaking skill that enjoyable weekend in the shop, you'll be rewarded requires years of practice to master. So when Ted Raife, our senior with a lifetime keepsake. editor, handed me a piece of molding with a string of delicately designer series project carved beads and rods, I was impressed. But when he told me that Glass-Panel CoffeeTable ....22 it only took him about half an hour to make, and that it was his fust Building this uniquely designed coffee table is attempt well, now Iwas really rmpressed. guaranteed - to teach you a couple of new tricks. As it tums out, this molding (called a'berry and rod,,) is actu- You'll get a healthy dose of quality shop time ally quite simple to make, even if you've never done any carving. along with a very stylish end result. ffi It's just a matter of making a few basic, repetitive cuts. It doesn,t heirloom project require a lot of practice or artistic ability like some types of carving. \- Drop-FrontDesk ...... 32 And the nice thing is that you only need two carving tools to do it. You might want t0 build this project for its classic It's really the perfect way to spend a relaxing evening in the shop

appearance or maybe its practicality. I for But while trying your hand at a new skill. think you'll agree,- the real hook here is the chal- But you don't have to attempt something lenging woodworking. as offbeat as carv- ing to leam a new "trick." One of the projects in this issue - the glass-panel coffee table on page ?2 - features a unique method for joining the legs of the table to the frame. The technique involves creating a large notch at the top of each leg for the frame to rest in. The interesting part is that it's all done on the The secret is in the leg construction. I won't go into all the details here. (You'll have to read the article for that.) Butbe careful. You may just leam something new - without even realizing it. ar,'\

This symbol lets you know there's more information online at Woodsmith.com. There you'll see step-by-step videos, technique and project animatiory bonus cutting diagrams, and a lot more. Drcp-Front Desk page 32

Woodsmith from our readers TipsI & Gchniques

illortising tlochine Clomp f;:W The hold-down on Then holes in the my benchtop mortiser remaining arm of the T doesn't hold workpieces for a pivot pin as firmly as l'd like. lf and locking pin. the workpiece twisted Next, cut two pieces even a little bit, the of plywood to serve as would bind in the mor- the base for the mortis- tise. So I needed a clamp er. Sandwiched between to hold workpieces tight- these plywood pieces ly against the . are the pivot and lock- To do this, I added a ing pins (main drawing

"modified" C-clamp to below). Grooves are forth, you'll need to working smoothly, I an auxiliary base (right routed in both pieces grind a flat spot on the screwed the two ply- photo). lt's designed to to hold the pivot and rod. Then drill and tap pieces together C-clamp swings swing out of the way locking pins (detail 'b'). a hole through the flat and bolted the base to down and out of when not in use (left For added stability, I spot to accept a carriage my mortiser stand. the way when margin photo). attached a cleat to clamp bolt pressed into a hard- Donna Casperson locking pin is First, cut offthe top jaw the base in the on wood handle. A D ill sbur g, P ennsyla ania withdrawn. of a 6" C-clamp (detail 'a') my . nut between and round the cut end ln order to slide the the slot and so it will swing easily. locking pin back and the rod allows a slight twist shs" -1 8 lock nut of the handle Top Layer to tighten the x 14"- %" ply.) locking pin. When I was satisfied that everything was

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Woodsmith No. 184 Push or pull at the free corner until case is square

No. 184 August/September 2009

PUBLISHER Donald B. Peschke

Space betweei EDITOR Terry J. Strohman blocks is same as finished width of case MANAGING EDITOR Vincent Ancona SENIOR EDITOR Ted Raife

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Dennis Perkins ASSISTANT EDITOR Carol Beronich CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Bryan Nelson, Phil Huber, Randall A. Maxey, Joel Hess

EDITORIAL INTERNS Catherine Seiser, Brianna Nelson

EXECUTIVE ART DIRECTOR Todd Lambirth SENIOR ILIUSTRATORS David Kreyling, Dirk Ver Steeg, Harlan V Clark, Peter J. Larson, David Kallemyn SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Bob Zimmerman GRAPHIC DESIGNER Shelley Cronin GRAPHIC DESIGN INTERN Megan Leafgreen losy Squore Up CREATIVE DIRECTOR Ted Kralicek Like I most woodworkers, often SENIOR PRoJECT DESIcNERS Ken Munkel, work alone in my shop.This means Kent Welsh, Chris Fitch, Jim Downinq, Mike Donovan I have to be somewhat innovative when PROJECT DESIGNER/BUItDER John Doyle it comes to completing a tvvo-person task SHOP CRAFTSMEN Steve Curtis, Steve Johnson such as squaring up a large case. SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHERS C rayola England, Dennis Kennedy I don't own a clamp that's long enough ASSOCIATE STYTE DIRECTOR Rebecca Cunninqham to pull a large case assembly into square, one corner stable.Then I lay the case on SENIOR ELECTRONIC IMAGE SPECTALTST Allan Ruhnke so I came up with an easy solution. As its face fitting the front edge between the PRODUCTION ASSISTANT lvtinniette Johnson you can see in the drawing above, I use wood pieces at the corners. VIDEO EDITOR/DIRECTOR Mark Hayes, Nate cruca my sawhorses and a few scraps of wood Once I have the case lightly clamped, to square a case. I can push or pull the free corner of the WoodsnilhO (ISSN 01il-4Ul) is publishcd binonthly (Fcb., Ap.,june, Aug., Ocr., Dec.) by Augnst Home Publishing Conlpan)r 2200 !:rand A,e. Dcs Moires, IA 5{r312. I spaced the sawhorses far enough case until it comes into square. Then WoodsmithO is i rugist.red bndcmark ofA(gusr Hl)m. p{blishing.

CopydghlO 2m9 Augu* Honrc PublishnrgConpinv All ft,servcd. apart to support the case and then added I just anchor a brace at one corner to 'ights Subscriplions: Singlecopy: $4.95. Gcycarsubsc.iprion (6 issues),S21.95. (Cnnnd.1/

a wood block on each end of one saw- hold the case square while I apply more Internation.l add 510 pcrvear U.S. funds.) horse, spaced the same distance as the clamping pressure at the joints. Canadian Subsciptions:Canadi Post Agreemlnt No. {0038201. }nd change otiddress in{(xmation to PO Box 881. Stattnr Main- Mn.khim. ()N I 3P8M6 finished width of the case.The other saw- Dennis Vertrees Canadi 8N81597473 RT Peliodicals PostagePaid it Dcs Moilr.s, IA,and atadditnrnal offices horse gets two blocks on one end to hold El izab e tht own, Kentuclcy Poshastei tund change of.ddre$ r) WD/ert/r, Bor 17tt2, Boone. lA a)m7-2112

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Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 5 more tips from our readers

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Jtocking Feotherboords A featherboard is a great It has a full height of 21/q" , sheet of plywood. After on either end and drilled accessory for su pporting high enough to hold most the plywood is cut to out for the flat-headed a workpiece when cutting tall pieces firmly against size, you can cut the fin- screws that tighten it in on the table saw. But if the fence. And if you're gers of the featherboard the miter slot. you're cutting a work- working with a flat work- and drill out the adjust- Finally, I added two piece on edge, most piece, you can reduce the ing slots for the machine star knobs to the top of featherboards aren't height by removing one screws, as shown in the the screws. Tightening thick enough to provide or two layers. drawing above. the knobs expands the adequate support. The three layers for the Next cut a piece for runner and locks it in. That's why I built this featherboard can be cut the runner.The runner is Art Outlaw stacking featherboard. from a single 12" x 24" ripped down the center Evansaille, lndiana

Shelf Stondord Drying Rork I don't have a large shop, While building a book- so whenever I have to case with metal shelf finish a project with a lot standards, I came up with of shelves, I struggle to an idea for a simple dry- find a place to set all the ing rack (photo at left). shelves while they dry. To make the rack, I cut four plywood supports. Then I cut a down the center of each support and installed the shelf standard. The supports can be clamped to a pair of sawhorses to make a temporary stand, Once you apply the fin- ish, you can stack shelves

on the shelf standands. I left about 4" between the shelvesto allow airto cir- culate over the finish. Andy Grundy Waconia, Minnesota

Woodsmith No. 184 Shutter lndex Jig QuickTipt Assembling movable, lou- v€red i\' shutters can be a PAIIEI. SPACTRS challenge. But one thing When assembling raised panel that make this go smoothly doors, I always used commercial is an assembly jig, like the spacers that keep the panel from one shown in the photo rattling. Recently I ran out of the below. Evenly spaced spacers, but happened on an alter- slots in the sides of the jig native that works even better. hold the louvers while you I found that the loop side of a assemble the frame. hook and loop fastener works To make building the jig much better for spacing panels, a little easier, I put togeth- for a couple of reasons. First the er a quick indexing jig, as closure usually has adhesive on you can see in the draw- the back, so it stays secure in the ing and photo above.The groove lndex pih is made during assembly. And the jig is made of two parts. soft loop material has just enough The first is an auxiliary give to allow for expansion with fence for the miter . lt's made from The jig can then be attached to the changes in humidity. 3/a" a piece of plywood. Before attach- miter gauge with screws so that the inner Hozuord HtLisingh ing the fence to the miter gauge, I laid notch is aligned with the blade.The Hudsonaille, Mississippi out and cut two 1/a"-wide notches in one second part of the jig is an indexing pin. 1/q"-dia. edge.The notches are spaced 11/2" aparl. It's a short piece of dowel. The SffTR PUSH (This is how far apart the notches need to dowel is slipped into the outer notch. A It's important for push'IICKS sticks to be on the assembly jig.) round dowel makes it easy to slip the have a firm "grip" on a workpiece workpiece on and off the as you push it across a router ta- indexing jig. ble or table saw. To keep smooth To cut the notches in the plastic push sticks from slipping, sides for the assembly jig, I add self-adhesive to slide the workpiece against the shop-made or purchased push the dowel and cut one notch. sticks that come into my shop. Now move the workpiece Richnrd GaudreotL over and slip the notch over Snnford, Mnine the dowel. After cutting the notches in one side, flip the piece over and cut the other side. Then rip the blank to width to make the jig. Bert Drost Des Moines, Iozun

WwTHTS The Boscn Winner! ImpeuonDruvpn BAI{D CIATTIP STORAOT Congratulationsto Band clamps come in handy for That's right, send us your favorite shop Art Outlaw, win- gluing up mitered frames and box- tips. lf your tip or technique is selected as ner of the Bosch es. The problem is they are hard the featured reader's tip, you'll win a Bosch Irnpactor driver. To to store and most times become just like the one shown here.To find out how you tangled. But l've found they fit per- submit your tip or technique, just go online could win a Bosch fectly in a plastic food storage con- to woodsmith.com and click on the link, drivex, check out tainer and stack neatly too. "SUBMIT ATlP." You can submit your tip and the in-formation Ctu'tis Clark upload your photos for consideration. on the left. EIk Grooe, Califurnia

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith -l: _ --"* Connector bolt and capgut'-'

'fittingsBlum KD 7."il

Knock-Dow Surface-mount KD connedor Fasten

Most projects are assembled once of traveling - from room to room, Today, there's a wide range of and, with forever. some- to floor, luck, But floor or even from home to knockdown fasteners available - times, this isn't the most practical home. So sometimes it makes sense from simple to sophisticated - that way to put a project together. With to take this mobility into account give you lots of quick, easy build- the lifestyle that many people live by incorporating knock-down (ro) ing and assembly options. Here's a today, a project can often do a lot hardware into the design. look at a good sampling.

Blum I(D Fiilings One of the best options I've and a connector screw. The hous- Blum KD Fifting flush mounts found for knock-down case con- ing is inserted into a hole drilled in for minimal struction is the Blum KD Fittings the support panel while the con- exposure shown in the photos at left. The nector screw is set into the end of installation is very straightforward, the intersecting panel (inset photo, they have excellent holding power left). When you turn the locking and, as you see at left, the installed screw on the surface of the housing, fitting hardly shows. an intemal metal cam engages the The two-part fitting consists of head of the connector screw, pulling a 1"-dia. plastic, press-in housing the two pieces snugly together.

) Surf ore-tlounl Gon nerlors ^I When appearance or pos- The locking plate sible obstruction is not quite as is positioned and important,thesurface-mountpanel screwed to one connectors shown at right might panel. The hous- be the ticket. The big advantage to ing is installed on using this fastener is that the instal- the second panel lation requires nothing more com- to fit over it. A screw on the hous- plicated than drilling pilot holes for ing tums an intemal cam that locks the mounting screws. the two panels tightly in place.

Woodsmith No.184 Metal 3 r"*:::ff:::"::j::":1,:,,,ha, when engaged r.rm a biscuit a slick and unique way to create rigid, locking joint. fasteners a create a strong, hidden knock-down joint. To install the fastener, you fit the strong, They're easy to install and are halves into #20 biscuit slots and invisible a KD joint great choice for KD table frames or then anchor them with screws. even cabinet bases. They canbe engaged or disengage The fastener consists of two "bis- easily with a simple sliding action, cuit halves." Each half holds a pair as in the inset photo at right.

Corner loinerg When quick and effortless The joiners come in right-hand knock-down assembly and disas- and left-hand pairs for use in oppo- sembly are a priority, these simple site corners of an assembly. You - metal corner joiners should be at simply locate and screw one half the top of your iist. Thev're ihe per- of each pair to the mating pieces. fect solution for KD cabinet bases, Assembly is accomplished by slid- simple, utilitarian casework, or ing the parts together to engage the modular storage projecis. interlocking flanges.

f,rension Rod Nuts L:ever used J ,"n'on roo Jolnery rsn r a type of joinery, as demonstrated in to tighten new idea. It's an often-used method the photos at right. tensiOn nut for large trestle construction and The large nuts are used in con- other heavv-duty KD applications. junction with a section of threaded But there is a ne'"r, ti,r'ist - tension rod. Tightening holes around the rod nuts ar,ailable from Lec Vnlleq. rim of the nut along with a tension- They offer a more stylish, easier- ing lever allows you to apply con- to-use, and stronger option for this siderable torque at assembly.

(Conne(lor Bolts Il*tr't, always finct a good The idea is that the connector selection of connector bolts along bolt mates with tl-re counterbored with the mating cap nuts in my cap nut so that both parts snug up hardware cabinet. This combina- tightly on the surface. The large, tion is the perfect choice for solidly flat Allen-drive head provides an fastening the individual sections of abundance of holding power with- a modular cabinet together. out being obtrusive.

Z:x,o::;'"'.",.".., intersecting hole in the ,i simple in concept. As you can see surface of the horizontai i at right, they work by providing a piece. A connector bolt solid, but inconspicuous, anchor threads through the cross .i I point for a connector bolt. This dowel and is tightened allows you to create very rigid, down to snug up the joints. right-angle KD loint. They can be used Cross You can see how this works in effectively on both case- the inset photo at right. The tapped work and frame-type ({a"*a cross dowel is inserted into an construction. W

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith shop secrets to a Smooth Surface Forget the sandpapen Take a look at a couple of scraping tools that take the work out of creating a smooth surflace on your projects, A scraper (top) or cabinet A hand-held scraper is a great tool well on highly figured that Although Sfanlqy still makes this scraper (bottom) for creating a perfectly smooth sur- are prone to tearout from planers, tool, in recent years other manu- will make quick face on a workpiece in preparation , and other power tools. facturers have come out with their work of smooth- for finishing. But flexing and hold- And as an added plus, these tools ing the surface ing a hand scraper at the correct are a lot more comfortable to use of a work- angle in order to smooth a surface ihan a traditional hand scraper. \ piece. can be tiring and uncomfortable, especially for long periods of time. CABINTT S(RAPTR For smoothing large areas, there are Cabinet scrapers are among the a couple of other scraping tools that simplest of scraping tools. For get the job done quickly and with years, the standard for cabinet a lot less effort. scrapers has been the classic Stanley A scraper plane or a cabi- #80 scraper. Essentially, it's noth- net scraper, like those in the ing more than a holder for a hand photo at left, can (card) scraper. It featr.rres two wing- dramatically style handles and a simple clamp reduce the to hold the scraper blade in place. amount of A thumbscrew is tightened to flex Tightening the thumbscrew time you spend sanding your the blade, saving wear and tear on on a cabinet scraper flexes the projects. They work especially your thumbs (photo at right). blade to take a deeper cut.

10 Woodsmith No.184 own versions, improving upon the original design. The cabinet scraper shown in the photos on the oppo- site page is made by Veritas. (See page 51 for sources.) Aside from preventing fatigue, one of the advantages of a cabinet scraper over a hand scraper is that it has a flat sole. This makes it easier to control the scraper and maintain : a consistently flat surface as you're smoothing a workpiece. surfaces quickly. Combined with ADJUSTABI.I AllGLI. The biggest A scraper plane Cabinet scrapers are designed to the mass of the plane, this tool advantage of a scraper plane, is ideal for hold the scraper blade at a single, works almost effortlessly, making however, is the fact that the blade working highly fixed angle. This is fine for most it the perfect choice for tasks like angle is adjustable. Depending on figured woods. scraping tasks. But for a little more smoothing a large tabletop. the task at hand, the blade can be versatiliry you might want to take SCRAPIR BtADt. Unlike hand scrap- set anywhere from a vertical posi- a look at a scraper plane. ers and cabinet scrapers, the thick tion to leaning fonvard 25'. (See blade of the Lle-Nielsen scraper the How-To box below for more.) SMAPM PLANT plane isn't designed to be flexed Whether you choose a cabinet If you do a lot of scraping, or or bowed in use. Instead, the large scraper or a scraper plane, I think A sheet of frequently work with figured brass thumbscrew simply clamps you'll find either of these tools a big paper can be woods, then you'll probably the blade in place. step up in performance from tradi- used to set the want to consider a scraper plane. In addition, the blade can be tional hand scraping. SX blade depth. Scraper planes come in a few dif- sharpened with or without the ferent sizes and designs. The large customary burr on the edge. It's plane shown on this page is the actually a little easier to control Lie-Nielsen #112, based on another the scraper plane without the burr. classic Stanley design. (Veritas also Once you have a feel for the plane, makes a similar scraper plane.) you can add a burr to the edge for With traditional knob and tote a more aggressive cut. handles, a scraper plane looks and The goal when using a scraper feels more like a conventionalbench plane is to take thin shavings. To plane. But unlike a bench plane, a set the blade depth, just loosen scraper plane holds a thick scraper the thumbscrew slightly and slip a blade instead of a plane iron. sheet of paper under the front of the Place sheet of oaoer under front of olane The blade is nearly 3" wide, plane. Then tighten the thumbscrew to set blade depth allowing you to work even large against the blade (photo at right).

How-Tol Set the Correct An le for the ob

One of the best features of the large short, paper thin shavings. I use smoothing an uneven surface, like scraper plane shown below is the this angle for cleaning up machine a glued-up tabletop. ability to change the angle of the marks on straight-grained wood. Setting the blade to a vertical blade for different tasks. Tilting the blade forward even position decreases the depth of the At the factory the blade is set so it more will take a deeper cut (cen- cut (right photo). This will produce angles forward about 15o from the ter photo). This angle will produce fine scrapings, almost like sawdust. vertical position (left photo below). long curls, almost like a low-angle I use this setting when smoothing This results in a smooth cut with plane. You could use this angle for wood with highly figured grain.

10" to 15" degrees I 5" to 25" tor averade for more , scraping tisks cut ,aggressive fuJn (\6

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 11 j :::.,,i;'.i: ! tl:.,].1j.,1 ,;ril lrifl-t /rt\i ll rr:4

ta prectston Brass Set-Up Blocks Accuracy in the shop is easier with the right set-up tools at your fingertips,

Powertools are greatwhen itcomes for years. They're more commonly you may need you can combine to consistent, accurate results. But called gauge blocks in a machine two or more blocks. The nice thing every power tool requires some shop. But they have a lot of uses in about set-up blocks is that there's sort of setup to get those results. A a woodworking shop, too. no measuring involved. You sim- square and a ruler are often all you Set-up blocks are precision ply use them as gauges to check need. But it's easy to misread a ruler blocks, usually made frombrass or distances and set up bits, blades, when you're setting up tools, bits, aluminum so they won't damage fences, and other tools. and blades. To get around these cutting edges. As you can see problems,I rety on almost foolproof in the photo below, a set typi- machinist's set-up blocks. cally consists of five different t/+" Brass set-up A(CURA(Y H IHt SH0P. Set-up blocks sized blocks (t/a" ,3/to" , , 3/8" , blocks are have been used by machinists andl/2"). For other sizes that commonly available in 2lz" and4" lengths.

Three set up blocks can be stacked together to get the right measure- ment for the task at hand.

12 Woodsmith No. 184 Set-up blocks are especially set the height of the router bit too, handy where space is limited as shown in the lower photo on or the area you're working in is the opposite page. I place an extra obstructed. If you have a job that block over the top of the bit and requires precise setups even in an raise the bit until it grazes the bot- accessible area, I think you'Il find tom of the top block. set-up blocks a must-have. BLADt HtlcHT. These blocks also ROUTIR StTIlllGS. Set-up blocks are work well for setting the height great tools for using when setting of a standard table saw blade or up a router, whether it's mounted dado blade, as shown in the photo in a table or hand-held. If you need below. You can just grab a plainly to set the distance of the router marked block or two for an exact Squaring the table fence from the bit, set-up measLrrement and raise or lower M0RTISING mAfflNt. I also use my chisel and blocks are pretty handy, as shown the blade until the highest tooth set-up blocks to square the chisel setting the in the main photo on the opposite is flush with the top of the blocks. on my mortising machine (above distance from page. I like to use the long set-up Again, if you add a block to go photo). This way, I can set the chisel the fence on blocks on the router table, so they across the top of the blade, you can square to the fence and set the dis- a mortising reach across the opening in the raise the blade until the teeth of the tance from the fence to the chisel machine can insert. You can use the blocks to blade just graze the top block. in one easy step. For example, if I be done in need to cut a mortise lz" from the one step with edge of a workpiece, I can use the a set-up block. Vz" block to square the chisel and set the fence. Then all I need to do is place the workpiece in the machine and cut the mortise. If you've never used set-up blocks before, I think you'll find they can be invaluable tools in the shop. Plus, they won't set you back a lot of money - you can purchase An extra block on top of the measuring block acts as a stop so a set for less than $15. For informa- that you can see exactly how high the dado blade is set on the tion on where to find them, refer to table saw. Clear markings on the blocks are easy to read. Sources onpage 51. SI

VeritasSet-U

Lee Valley offers set-up blocks made useful in the woodworking shop. by Veritas. These anodized alumi- Used in combinationwith the small A handv storaoe box is inclu'ded with this num blocks range in size [rom7/16" blocks, you can measure up to set for safe keeping 3/4". to They're clearly marked on 411/to" w1Ih the set. the face for easy use. An added convenience of the Just like the brass set-up blocks, 1-2-3 block is the machined these aluminum blocks won't dull holes. Some of these holes the cutting edges of yourblades and bits. Plus the anodized aluminum surface is extremely hard so the blocks are practically impossible to scratch or dent. So the blocks will maintain their accuracy for years to come. The black anodized surface also makes a good contrast when this block to posi- it's placed against tool edges. tion multiple work- hr additiory the Velifas set includes pieces for repetitive I a 1-2-3 block. This precision ground drilling tasks on the Each bloik is clearlv marked for fast,' steel block gets its name from its drill press table. It accurate identification dimensions: 7" x2" x3". The block will bolt to any steel is a machinist's tool that is also machine table. attach to machines

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 13 techni uesTrom o

table saw tricks for Making Vertical Cuts

Using the table saw to shape the edges of a worl

A table saw sits at the center of and the slots for splined miters. You most woodworking shops - and can even make quick with- with good reason. It's the go-to tool out having to install a dado blade. for ripping, crosscutting, breaking TA[t ftNCI. The first step to mak- down sheet stock, and even cutting ing vertical cuts is to come up with joinery. For most of these cuts, the a way to support a workpiece on workpiece is held horizontally, flat edge and keep it from tipping against the table. But with a practi- during a cut. For this, I tum to a cal method for holding a workpiece tall fence. An auxiiiary fence to fit vertically, you can use your table over your saw's rip fence keeps a saw to shape its edge rather than large panel stable. The height of just cut it to length and width. the fence also allows you to make The key is learning a fer,r, sirnple these cuts safely by keeping your techniques and building a couple hands well away from the blade. of accessories. This allows vou to The design shown in the draw- make raised panels, ing at left provides a very solid cut tenons, fence. It attaches to your table saw's rip fence with two studded knobs that fit into threaded inserts in the back of the fence. By simply tightening the knobs, the fence becomes a sturdy fixture, ready to #8x1"Fh handle tall workpieces. woodscrew \ --e BUll.DlNG THt ttilc. I used Baltic Y plywood for the fence, but NOTE: Star knobs with MDF would also work well. To studs tighten t/t"-20 threaded agatnst np lence make your own fence, start by cut- and lock tall fence inserts are in position installed on back ting the sides. You can make them face of fence -e ---.-\ the length of your rip fence and { " NOTE: Size about 12" tall. You'll need to cut MU LTI - PU RPOSE TALL F ENCE supports to fit grooves in the sides of the fence your rip fence to house the supports. The width t4 Woodsmith No.184 To cut the shoulder, simply set the blade height to Next, set the blade angle and raise the blade to meet the kerf %0" and position the fence to define the border of of the shoulder cut. A handscrew adds stability to the panel the raised field of the panel. and makes it easier to control the cut. of tl-re supports depends on your this technique because it saves the I've found 10-12'is about right for A raised field saw's rip fence. Just size them for a cost of an expensive router bit. this design. Then simply line up the (top) and one snug fit. After drilling countersunk The examples in the margin pho- blade and set the height to just meet with a shoulder screw holes for the supports, drill tos show two options. The top panel the inside comer of the cut you (below). holes for the threaded inserts in the features a simple beveled edge. The made earlier and make the cuts. side opposite the blade. lower panel defines the raised field As you can see in the photos, I Assembling the fence with with a shoulder. Both styles are easy like to place a handscrew at the top screws goes pretty quickly. I didn't to make using the tall fence. edge of the panel. The handscrew use glue in the grooves just in case SH0UIDIR. The photos above show rides on the fence and helps I need to adjust the fit after assem- how to make the cuts that form the keep the panel square as &s^*. bly. Finally, check to make sure the shoulder. All you need to do is set you make the cut. -*.r-h. r.,r.-_ "' t fence sits square to the table. the blade height to %0" and the rip Thetall fenceisagreatfirst \l;.&..-- - RAISID PANEIS. With the fence com- fence to I1/2" and cut along all four step in making vertical cuts. To find "at@i&4 plete, vou're ready to put it to work edges of the outside face. a simple jig for cutting tenons, on a project. And a good first proj- Al{cl.tD CUT. Next, install the tall slots for splined miters and ect is making raised panels. I like fence and set the saw blade angle. more, tum the page.

]}rli.!,. iFiji"iiligirlli tiiij I jlni ;-:::irr :l How-Tol Cut Rabbets with a Ta[[ Fence

I usually cut rabbets using a dado blade buried in an auxiliary fence. But installing a dado blade can be time consuming. So, when I only need to cut one or two rabbets, I find it's quicker to just install the tall fence and use the two-step pro- cess shown in the photos. You start by setting the fence to determine the width of the and then the blade height to define its depth. Next, make the first cut with the workpiece in the horizon- tal position. Then, flip the work- piece on its edge and adjust the fence position and blade height to With a rip blade installed and the fence Now hold the workpiece vertically meet the kerf of the first cut. Hold and blade height adjusted to define the and make the second cut so the waste the workpiece vertically to make size of the rabbet, make the first cut. falls to the outside of the blade. the cut and complete the rabbet.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 15 SLIDING TENON & SPLINE JIG

90" cleat

NOTE: All parts are 3/a" plryood that making a sliding jig for cutting tenons and splined miters is also a great addition to your table saw. Rtv[RSlBLt Jlc. The sliding jig shown in the illustration at right is similar to the tall fence you \ made earlier. But in this case, the jig slides on your rip fence instead of remaining stationary. You'll also notice a cleat on either side of the jig. A 90" cleat holds a workpiece skaight and square for cutting ten- ons. On the other side, a 45o cleat secures a mitered workpiece while ry,9!:: Al:3'l sn"-wiae-n''u' you cut a slot for a spline. cleats with screws- '4 onlv (no olud for 91.?o,ve Bull.Dll{c IHt Jlc. The sliding jig eai repticeritent '/4- oeeQ relies on the same construction you used for the fixed, tall fence. Two plywood sides with grooves housing the two supports make Now you can assemble the jig by This way, you'll get a feel for how up the body of the jig. attaching the supports with screws to align cuts to layout marks and Once again, start by cutting the in the countersunk holes. also how to get the most out of the sides to size and then cut grooves On one face of the jig, I cut a jig in your shop. for the supports. Next, you'll need shallow dado and attached a cleat SPl.ll{tD mmRS. One of my favor- to cut the supports to the correct square to the table. On the other ite applications is making splined The angled width for your saw. I did this by side (with the 45" cleat), no dado is miter joints. \A4rether in small fence supports "sneaking up" on a good fit, dry necessary. This allows you to adjust applications, like picture frames, a workpiece fitting the parts, and testing them the accuracy of the miter cutby fine- or larger projects such as edging a while cutting on the rip fence. You want the jig to tuning the placement of the cleat. cabinet, the perfect, seamless miter slots for splines. slide freely, but without any slop. Both cleats are simply attached joint is a woodworking staple. But with screws - no glue. By not no matter how well cut, the joint using glue, you can also easily is inherently weak due to its end- replace the cleats when they grain glue surfaces. get chewed up. Adding a spline - a thin strip of But before you attach either fit into slots on the mat- of the cleats, raise your table ing faces of each piece - dramati- saw blade to full height and cally increases the strength. But make sure to locate the screws cutting a perfectly matched slot on for the cleats well above that the mitered ends of the workpieces point. Finally,I formd ithelpful can be a tricky operation. to add a light coat of wax to the That's where the angled side of inside of the jig (the part that the jig comes into play. By holding slides along the fence). This the workpiece at the correct angle, will keep it ruming smoother cutting the slot is a breeze. As you by reducing the friction, while can see in the photo at left, all you still maintaining a tight fit on need to do is position the work- the rip fence. piece on the 45' cleat and fasten it in position with a small clamp. USING THT JIG Then, using a dado blade cen- After assembling the jig, tered on the workpiece, you can cut you're ready to put it to the slot with little chance of error. work. It's a good idea The jig also allows you to vary the to experiment a little bit dimensions of the slot. Athin spline using some scrap pieces. is all you need for picture frames

Woodsmith No.184 and other small projects, but a less than desirable. As you can see thicker spline will guarantee plenty in the photos in the box below, a of strength for heavier applicatiors, dado blade leaves a rough surface such as a cabinet face frame. on the face of the tenon. SPl.llltS. For the spline, all you need By cutting a tenon vertically to do is plane some stock to match using a tenon jig, you get a much the thickness of the slot. It's a good smoother face. A good-quality rip idea to make sure the grain of the blade leaves a face that seldom spline is oriented perpendicular to requires any further planing or the slot. This way, you won't need sanding to achieve a tight fit. The to worry about the spline splitting smooth face provides a better sur- under pressure. Then, a little glue face for the glue and adds more and clamps make for a straightfor- strength to the finished joint. ward assembly. Fortunately, cutting tenons is You can complete the joint by a simple operation using the jig. trimming the spline on both the The box below shows the steps. inside and outside of the assem- The thing I really like about this bled frame with a flush cut saw jig is how easy it is to adjust the and follow up with a little sand- thickness of the tenon simply by ing. An example of a finished joint moving the rip fence. The smooth is shown in the inset photo on the tenon will result in a strong joint bottom of the opposite page. that lasts for years. CUmilc Ttl{0t{s. The mortise and SAttTlf. While the jigs shown here tenon joint is another favorite for are designed with safety in mind, With a good-quality rip blade in the table saw many woodworking projects. And there's one thing to remember as the sliding jig makes cutting smooth-faced there are several ways to cut ten- you put them to use. It's a good tenons almost foolproof. ons. One cofiunon method uses idea to get in the habit of sliding a a dado blade with the workpiece workpiece all the way through the Once you get the hang of using held flat on the table and guided cut and well past the blade before the tall fence and the sliding jig, by a miter gauge. This technique removing it from the jig. Don't just you'll see how easy it is to incorpo- is quick and reliable. But for many pull the jig and workpiece back rate vertical cutting techniques in applications, particularly when through the blade. You risk catch- your future projects. You're sure to using a through tenon, where part ing the back of the blade and hav- agree it was well worth taking the of the tenon is visible, the result is ing the workpiece kick back. time to make the jigs. El

!. -: 'rr lt,r,rrltf- .-ri::{:r:tr:::

I r lo.*:,, ": Cut with r$ tenon jig 't , \\ i. lirli4a.

I r1'$ :-)" {.|:itl-'L<:; '

Cut with k. dado blade ffi \

Use a miter gauge to cut a shoulder on all four Align the blade with the shoul- The smooth face of a verti- faces of the workpiece to define the length of der cut and slide the jig and cally cut tenon makes for a the tenon. You can use the rip fence as a stop. workpiece through the cut. stronger glue joint.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 17 mitered .,ti 'ifi"'-'] dr ti l,; ii-i i'r. Ejii i 9..q.*.+;r .fi. l i1,t E;,HH BTilJ I u F*,r'i

Your favorite art or photograph will look great in this easy-to-build frame resting on a classic, adjustable easel,

Treasured photographs and art- base with a support and clamp There are two sizes for this proj- work deserve a distinctive place added to hold the frame in place. ect - one for 8 x 10 photos and in any home. And this frame and The individual components are one for 5 x 7 photos. I've featured easel combination makes a great chamfered to add to the form and the 8 x 10 frame throughout this place to display those gems. character of the easel. article, but I've also included the This project is pretty simple The frame is built by gluing the dimensions for a 5 x 7 version in to build. There's no complicated facing to a backer board and then the cutting diagram on page 21. foinery because both the base and just adding trim around the edges. You can also build a set for an 11 the frame are built up from three The frame is also chamfered to add x 14 photograph or art. The cutting separate components. The easel is character and I chose contasting diagram and materials list is online nothing more than a three-tiered wood for the facing as well. at Woodsmith.com.

18 Woodsmith No. 184 NOTE: Dimensions NOTE: Glass and poster- Posterboard shown are for board are 8"x10'1 N 8" x 10" frame

Miter joints huildino the t/ join trim 1t FRArulE

Building the frame for the frame and easel duo is pretty straightfor- ward. To keep it simple,Ieliminated the need for splines on the mitered corners biz gluing the facing to a backer and then mitering the trim around the assembly. The trim has a Turnbutton rabbeted edge that fits tight against the facing and backer. NOTE: 14 Backer is t/n" BACKTR AND tAOt{G. The backer and the facing are sandwiched together. 14 The backer is Y4" narrower than the facing so that when they are Rabbet holds glued together they form a rabbett facing and I to hold the glass and photograph backer assembly I or artwork in the frame. The backer pieces are cut to size FACING ---_l TOP / BOTTOM and fit with butt joints (main draw- ing). The facing has mitered joints is cut on router table and a chamfer on the inside edge. -i4;-ihi;i"tor*rr-}-\ I cut the facing to width and rough NOTE: Trim is made .\Y . Facing.and. from s/a" -thick stock i"'Ai"i"J backer are Qlued length and then routed the cham- together to create fered edge (How-To rabbeted opening box below). NOTE: for photo and glass The facing can be mitered to length Trim pieces are mitered to fit around frame and glued together with the backer, as shown in detail'a.' box below. I ripped an extra-long DtTAlLS. To finish up, you TRIM. The trim is rabbeted to fit workpiece to width for all four can add a piece of glass to around the facing and backer and sides of the trim. You can rout the the opening. I cut a piece has a chamfer on the inside front chamfer on one edge of the work- of posterboard to back the edge (main drawing). Again, it's piece and then cut the rabbet on photo (detail'b'). And tum- Facing and / 7r;p easiest to do this work before the the table saw. Finally miter the buttons will keep the backing b- pieces are cut to length, as shown pieces to length and glue it to the and your artwork or photo- b:,If:;i"; in the two right drawings in the backer and facing edges. graphs in place.

How-Tol Sha the Frame Com

Cut chamfer on NOTE: Rout chamfer outside edge

Facing Chamfer. /t3 easlest to rout the Chamfer. To make the frame trim, staft by Rahbet. Cutthe rabbet on the inside edge chamfer on the facing blanks before miter- routing a chamfer on the outside edge of of the trim on the table sattu, using a dado ing the pieces to length. an extra long blank. blade buried in an auxiliary fence.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith t9 #10 -24 x 2" brass machine .l. CLAMP TOP VIEW I screw with head cut off l/q 1 oddingrhe EASEI

The easel consists of a base and a vertical support that holds a slid- ing lock to secure the frame in position. The base is assembled using three hardwood blocks - each with a different edge pro- file. This adds weight and an intricate design to the easel. A dado in the back of the 20 base holds the support. N For information on B0IIOM. The bottom of the building a frame and base has a wide chamfer easelforanllx14 Three workpiecei photograph, with a shoulder at the top. are stacked and o visrt our website at You can cut the shoulder t-\ I Woodsmith com F\ and the chamfer on the table I 1 OVz saw. The How-To box below #6x1" il 5/sl shows you the steps. brass Fh 1 woodscrew To define the shoulder, +l I cut a ho"-deep kerf in Fasten support %+ < N to base with three sides of the top N glue and screws T- face. Then I set the saw \ blade at 45" and cut the chamfer SIDE SECTION VIEW on the edges of the bottom. RISIR At{D T0P. The riser in the Larqe chamfer center of the base is a rectansu- cutoitablesaw box below) lar workpiece cut to size with ihe 6ee edges left square. The top piece has a l+" chamfer on the bottom of the riser will help hold the bot- edge. After this workpiece is cut to tom and top in place as you apply l__a___=+l size, you can rout the chamfer. the clamps for glue up. After the Btcll{ ASSIMBIY. Once you have the glue dries, you can cut the notch It's a narrow piece with cham- three base pieces cut and shaped, on the back of the base for the ver- fers on the edges and trimmed you can glue them up. The pieces tical support on the table saw, as comers. Because the finished are assembled centered from side shown in the right photo below piece is so small, I cut the pro- to side, but flush at the back edge. STOP. A stop on the front of the base files on an extra wide blank. A few brads inserted in both faces keeps the frame from slipping off. You can miter the corners first.

t-,ii-::. . irn:.:i.'i:,+l!n:r: i'!;!rir'.,r;,::rri:!,;rji!:;:i,.ir:i:,lrr:1-:.iii:r:::f,:{{:3,iil.:filtit: i: irj:t,r :.:.rr1 :li :iri:ii-r ::::lti, .iaeiti:i:tiliii:-,1:f.it::j+tilti':t:i:;;i.::::it.t::.:irft,.rir!rit:,1:1, How-Tol Sha the Base

NOTE: Notch is centered on width of base

First. To shape the chamfer on the table Second. To complete the chamfeC tilt the Notch. The notch in the base that holds saw I started by cuxing a kerf t/z' from blade 45" and raise it to meet the kerf. the vertical support should be cut after the the edge on three sides of the workpiece. Then cut off the waste. three layers of the base are glued up.

20 Woodsmith No. 184 Then take the workpiece over to Once you've completed this, you'll in place in the clamp. Then add a the router table and rout the cham- need to go back to the router table washer and a brass thumb nut as fers on the edges. Finally rip the to rout the on the edges. shown in the main drawing. stop free from the waste. ThenyoucancutTsz"-deepnotches tlNAl DtTAll.S. The easel has been VIRTICAI SUPPORT. The vertical sup- at the back of the clamp to form a designed to hold the frame either port for the frame is ripped to tongue. Finally, cut the clamp free. horizontally or vertically, depend- width to fit the notch you cut ear- There's more information in the ing on your photo or artwork. All lier. The miters on the top corners How-To box below. you need to do now is to decide of the support are cut on the table You'll need to drill a hole through which photo to display. El saw. After that, it's just a matter of the middle of the cutting the slot to hold the clamp tongue on the clamp and drilling pilot holes for the to hold the screw that Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram mounting screws in tl-re back. attaches it to the sup- 8x10 Size 5x7 Size The slot in the top is made on the port. This may be a A Backer Top/Bottom (2) l/ahdbd. - 2 x81/z l/a hdbd. - 2 x5 t/ahdbd router table. You'll find more infor- challenge, but take B Backer Side (2) - 2 x 14 t/qhdbd. - 2 x 1j mation in Shop Notebook on page a look at the photo C FacingTop/Bottom (2) 3/ax21/q-12 3/sx21/a-9 D Facing Side (2) 3/6x21/a- 3/ex2t/q- 30. Tn'o screws hold the support to below for an easy 14 1l E Trim(1) 5/6x 1-60(rgh.) s/sxl-48(rgh.) the base as shown in detail'b.'' solution to this. 3/qx4 F Base Bottom - 12 3/qx3t/z - 9 tRAff Cl.AtlllP. The frame clamp TINISH ASSIIIIBIY. ThC G Base Riser 3/nx31/q - 101/2 3/qx23/q -l|h t7s is also a small piece with sev- clamp is fitted with H Base Top x 3t/2 - 11 3/s x 3 - 8 I/q eral short cuts and chamfers, so a cut off 10-24 brass I Frame Stop xl/q - jjlh t/a xl/q - 7th J Vertical Support 3/sx1 -20 3/ax1 - ll again, it's easier to work with an machine screw Cut 3/qx K Clamp 1 - jl/z 3/qx 1 - 11/2 oversized blank. I cut the blank the screw to 712". Abit . (4) 7/a" BrassTurnbuttons w/Screws to width this time and then cut of epoxy on the end of . (2) #6 x 1" Brass Fh Woodscrews a on the end of the piece. the screw will hold it c (1) 10-24 x2" Brass Machine Screw o (1) #10 Brass Flat Washer o (1) #10 Brass Thumb Nut For 8x10 Size 1b" x3" x60" NOTE: Plane to 3/s" -thick

NOTE: Parts E, H, l, and .l are planed to thickness

For 5x7 Size ALSO NEEDED: One 1 2" x24" NOTE: Plane to 3/a" -thick sheet %" hardboard for the 8x10 frame and a I2"x12" sheet Since the clamp is small piece and needs be 1/t" hardboard a to lor tne 5x / drilled precisely, I secured it to the drill press using a frame. NOTE: Parts E, H, l, and I are planed thickness handscrew and then drilled the hole. to

ff. :.iirt1:i:lI:t ! 1ln!l+ii!i:}i,i.!-:;a: .t . : ) .i: i-1. : ti: . .f; Makin the Frame Clam

Auxiliary 3/e miter fence

Beveled Front. Locate the bevel on the Chamfers. The chamfers on the edges are Tongue. The final steps are to cut the front of the clamp by marking a point 3/a" routed on the router table. Use a miter gauge notch to form the tongue on the clamp from the bottom of the workpiece. for the end and angled chamfers. and then cut it free from the blank.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 2I ' glass-panel

This is certainly no run-of-the-mill project,The lool< is sophisticated and sleel<, and the worl< might add a new dimension to your skills.

It's easy to get into a woodworking striking look. The frame, with the joinery used to build the frame rut - always building in the same its tapered legs and slightly bev- is a bit out of the ordinary. And of familiar style using well-practiced eled apron, has a light, almost course this raises the question - techniques. We're all more comfort- airy appearance. But at the same how do you accomplish it? When able sticking to what we know time, the impression is solid and you get into it, I guarantee you'll But it can be a nice change of substantial. The contrasting grids find it's all very straightforward as pace to try something different and supporting the glass are an imme- well as interesting. Thebestway to expand yor.u skillsby tackling some diate attention grabber. get the full picture is to schedule "outside the box" woodworking. But upon closer inspection of some shop time. Building this glass-panel coffee the table, you come away with We've even included an option table will definitely go a long way a couple of intriguing questions. on page 29 that offers an equally toward filling that prescription. First, you may wonder how the impressive table for a bit less r,r,ork. The clean, crisp lines and sim- uniquely designed frame goes Either way, you're guaranteed a ple details create an undeniably together. Well, you'll discover that beautiful reward for the effort.

22 Woodsmith No. 184 ffiffiffiSTRq#ffiWffiffiffi @ffiFMHRS OVERALL DIMENSIONS:431/2"L x 271/2"W x 78"H

- Notch at top of leg wraps -thick plate glass around corner of top frame %" - has seamed edges ,/-

NOTE: For design option without grids, see page 29

Contrasting grids in top add visual interest

Chamfers soften top edaes of !egs and frame Legs cover heads Miter joints ol screws offer searn/ess look

Legs glued up from two pieces 3/a" Legs are tapered of 1 -thick stock after assembly

NOTE: For finishing NOTE: Legs are added i nformation, see 5ources to top frame after assembly on page 51

Notch is pre-cut before leg sections Grids and glass are assembled simply rest on rabbeted frame

FRAME AND LEG CORNER DETAIL

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 23 E

#8 x 21/2" Fh woodscrew

Rail faces beveled to 10"

C.

SHORT FRAME RAIL

of divider to fit in frame END sEcTIoN vrEW l*tlz

next step is to cut rabbets on their top, inside edges (detail 'b'). The buildingftelbP tnnmr 1"-deep rabbets will accomrnodate both the Tq"thick grids and the 7+"thick glass panels that rest on \r Before putting saw to lvood, let The frame is divided into four them. To ensure clean, crisp shoul- me give you a brief rundown of "grid" openings by a long divider ders, I formed the rabbets with two the job ahead. First, you'll make and tvvo short dividers. The four passes across a standard blade, as the divided top frame. Then you identically sized grids simply rest shown in the box below. add the legs to it. This is a bit dif- on rabbets cut into the top edges tRAft JOll{TS. The frame joinery is ferent in that the legs are usually an of all the frame pieces. simple and solid. The pieces are integral part of the frame. Finally, RABBITS. The outer frame is butted in the comers and then you'll build the four grids. assembled first and then the divid- reinforced with screws hidden THt fRAmt. As you can see above, ers are fit inside it. So once the long later by the legs. To do this, the the rectangular top frame is made and short rails are cut to width and ends of the short rails need to be up of two long and two short rails. length from 172"-thick stock, the trimmed flush with the rabbet, as tSrE#A SSW How-Tol Frame Rabbets & Notches

First Cut. Establish the depth of the rab- Remove the Waste. You'll need to raise Trim the Rails. I switched to a dado blade bet with the first cut. Set the rip fence by the blade and readjust the rip fence to to trim the ends of the short rails flush with measuring to the outside of the blade. remove the waste with a second cut. the rabbet. Take multiple light passes.

24 Woodsmith No. 184 shown in the right drawing in the How-To box on the opposite page. How-Tot Frame Ed e Profiles THE BtVtl.S. Next comes a design ' detail. The outside faces of the frame pieces are beveled at 10o to complement the taper of the legs. This isn't hard to do, but there is one minor complication. Due to the butt joints in the corners of the frame, the ends of the short rails will need to be beveled as well (detail'a,' opposite page). The box at right gives you the step-by-step procedure for adding this simple profile to the frame. A CHAM[[R. After assembling the frame, there's one more thing to do before starting on the dividers. I used a palm router to add a 7s" A 10o Face Bevel. The first step is to cut a 10" Clamp and Mark. Next, lclamped chamfer to the top, outside edge. bevel on the face of al I fou r frame pieces. The bevel up the frame to mark for the bevel lb" THt DlvlDltlc RAlLS. Adding the sbps below the top edge. cuts on the ends the rails. 11. of short dividing rails the assembled ..1 to ri frame is pretty straightforward. i r_i The important thing is to install .l: them so that you create four open- ings that are identical in size. ::. After cutting the pieces to width and rough length from 172"-thick stock, you can rabbet them with the same two-pass methocl used to cut the rabbets in the frame pieces. The divider pieces are rabbeted on both sides (detail'b,' opposite cRoss page). But note that the rabbets are SECTION only 7a" wide. This way, the width of the top edge the dividers counterbore SHORT of for #g x 2t/z', FRAME matches that of the frame rails. NOTE: Trim bevel Fh woodscrew RAIL to outside of line A SNUG fll. To install the divid- ers, I first cut the long divider to End . With the blade still tilted to Pilot Holes. Now clamp up the frame fit snugly between the shoulders 7 0", carefully make the bevel cuts. I cut to again to drill the counterbored pilot holes of the rabbets on the frame rails. the outside of my line to allow for sanding. for the screws used to assemble it. Then you'll need to notch the ,t ends of the divider to fit over the

a:. rails and flush across the top, as in :i detail'c'on the opposite page. Now, with the long divider cen- tered in the frame, you can fit the short dividers in the same manner. just make sure the two short rails are exactly the same length. This will help ensure the grid openings are all the same size.

ADD GtUt. The final step is to glue i,: the dividers in place. I used the ,-j ., short dividers to center the long ll divider at each end and then l; added a clamp. You can cut a cou- .: Sand Bevel Flush. After assembling the Chamfered Edge. Finally, lused an easy-to- ple of identical length spacers to frame with glue and screws, I sanded the handle palm router to rout a narrow cham- help center the short dividers. end bevels flush with the sur-face. fer around the top edge of the frame.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 25 NOTE: Legs are glued up from 1 3/a"-thick stock. Splines are %" hardboard

NOTE: Cut notches in Ieg sections before assembly

b. sEcnoN vlEW t/e" chamfer (tA llo'- SPLINE --lal't/ FrameU .. il NOTE: Legs are ratt I tapered after sections are glued up

tW0-PllCt LtG. Rather than cut you a good grain and color match the legs from a solid or glued-up between the two leg sections. blank, they're made from two I|0TCHIS. Once the blanks are cut odding fte LtGS pieces of 17+'-thick stock joined to size, your next job is to make with a splined miter. This con- the cuts that will form the notch struction allows you to "precut" at the top of the glued-up leg, as With the top frame assembled, the notch at the top before the two in Steps One and Two. The bottom you're ready to start on the legs. pieces are glued together. And the shoulder of the notch is cut square, The tapered legs are unique in how appearance is crisp and seamless. while the long face is beveled to they're made and attached to the BLAl{l$. The drawings on the mate with the beveled frame. frame. A large notch at the top of opposite page show the step- There are two key points to focus the leg wraps around the outside by-step procedure I followed to on here. First, you want the inter- comer of the frame. This interesting make the legs. Each leg starts as an section of the shoulder and bevel design feature blends the legs into extra-wide blank (about 8" wide), cuts to form a sharp, crisp comer. So the apron in a pleasing way. cut to final length. This will give take care setting the blade height.

NOTE: Support frame upside down on bench to attach legs

Legs clamped to frame in three directions

Multiple Clamps. The key to gluing up a tight betvveen Upside Down. Supporting the frame upside down on thick the leg sect/bns is to stagger multiple clamps across the faces. A blocks will make it easier to clamp the legs to the frame. lJse a clamp placed end-to-end will keep fhe pieces aligned. clamp across each face and a third clamp top-to-bottom.

Woodsmith No. 184 Second, make sure the bevel angle O. matches (or complements) the END VIEW angle on the frame rails. The second bevel rip cut is fairly deep (about 2"), so you might get better results by removing the bulk leg \ of the waste with one pass and then blank ' resetting the rip fence and making Tilt a second "cleanup" pass. blade- MlItRS. After completing the notch \ t0" cuts, the blanks can be mitered Shoulder Cuts. Use the rip fence to posi- Bevel Cuts. A tall auxiliary rip fence makes into two sections, as in Step Three. tion the shoulder cuts in the leg blanks. You the bevel cuts go easier. Take care when Here, you want to make sure the can set the blade height with test cufs. setting the blade height and angle. miters are cleanly cut at precisely 45'. This guarantees a square notch that fits well to the frame. SPtlt{tS. I knew that keeping the two leg sections perfectly aligned while gluing up the miter joints would be a challenge. For this rea- son, I decided to add splines to the joints. I simply cut a kerf in each mitered face, as shown in Step Fou1, and then cut 7s" hardboard splines to fit them. ASSIMBIY. Once the miter joints Miter Cuts. When mitering the leg sections Spline Grooves. To cut the grooves for the are completed, the two sections to final width, I made an initial "rough" splines, tilt the saw blade to 45", then use can be glued together. The splines pass followed by a second cleanup pass. the rip fence to locate them accurately. don't need to be glued in. Just con- centrate on getting a tight, well- aligned joint. The first drawing at the bottom of the opposite page shows how I accomplished this. TAPIRS. The tapers can now be cut. To do this, I put together a table saw jig. A complication is that you can't simply rotate the leg in the jig to make adjacent cuts. The thick- ness of the leg and the two-piece assembly won't allow it. So the jig fence is reversible. You make one taper cut on each leg with the top First Taper Cut. Make the first taper cut End-For-End. To make the second set of facing you and then flip the leg with top of the leg facing you. The taper taper cuts, you'll simply reverse the fence for the second cut, as in Steps Five starfs at the inside corner of the assembly. setup and reorient the legs. and Six. You'll find details on mak- ing the jig on page 31. GAfllttR. Before the legs can be installed, you have one more task to fulfill. The final step is to rout a chamfer around the top, outside edge of each leg. This can be done at the router table (Step Seven). l1{STALl.ATl0l{. Gluing the legs to the frame is pretly straightforward. The trick is to clamp them snugly in all directions. This will ensure a seamless joint. The bottom right A Small Chamfer. I used the miter gauge The tapered leg wraps seamlessly drawing on the opposite page with an auxiliary fence on the router table around the beveled frame while shows how I did this. to help chamfer the top of the legs. chamfers soften the sharp edges.

Woodsmith.com tiE Woodsmith 27 s NOTE: Grids simply rest on frame tI without glue -T-'/8 I Short divider

LONG GRID

SHORT GRID

NOTE: Grids are made from b. END sEcrroN vtEW %" -thick stock oddingfte Gnrus & Guss

With the legs installed, you're head- cAt'lc UP. Each grid is made up of to "gang up" this joinery. I cut the ing into the final stage of the proj- fclur long bars and five short cross- halfJap notches into wide blanks, ect - makir-rg the decorative grids. bars. Three short bars are spaced then ripped the bars to width from This may seem like a lot of work, near the outside end of the grid to the blanks. The How-To box below but it actually goes pretty quickly. create two rows of sqllare open- shows the basic sequence, so I'll just As I'll explain, there's a shortcut ings. The other ha;o bars are posi- add a couple of helpful pointers. you can take to cut the half-lap tioned at the inside end to create a BLAl{KS. To get startecl, you'll joints used to assemble the grids. single row of openings. need to cut the blanks to finished Another big plus is that all four Rather than cut all the joints length and rough width. I cut one grids are identical in size. individually, an easier approach is long blank (4" wide) and one short

How-Tol Make Multi le Half La

lnitial Cuts. After fine-tuning the blade height with Next Cuts. Readjust the rip fence Rip the Blanks. Rip the blanks into fesf cutt start by cutting a notch or rabbet on both setting to make the second and individual strips, leaving a little extra ends of the long and short blanks. then the third set of cuts. thickness for cleanup sanding.

28 Woodsmith No. i84 blank (5" wide) foreachgrid panel. You can size the length of the blanks to the openings in the top frame, allowing aboutl/zz" overall clearance. And you'll want to cut a couple of extra test pieces to help fine-tune the table saw setup. ll0IG CUTS. After using the test pieces to adjust the dado blade heighf thecuts aremade using the rip fence to position the notches. You can use the same rip fence setting to make the corresponding cuts in both ends of the long and short blanks. But you'll cut on the bottom side of the longblanks and the top side of the short blanks. If you Vrefer a The long blanks will have a third eimVler look and wanl to set of cuts only at one end. 6AVeyour^elf some work,you can RIP CUS. In order to end up with tight joints, the grid bars need to build the table without Lhe grido. The be the right width. So I cut them conolruclion chanqe6, ohown in lhe just a tad snug to allow for cleanup details below, are ?rel,ty minimal.You sanding of the saw marks. oimply olarf, wilh ehallower rabbef,e ASSttlBlY. All that remains is the (1/a" in assembly. The key here is to make deeV) Ihe top frame pieceo. 1ub- sure the grids end up square and etitulinq froeted qlaoe for the clear are a good fit to the frame. I accom- qlaeo will eoflen lhe appearance, plished this by gluing up the grids a few pieces at a time. Once all four grids are assem- bled and sanded, you can drop them in place for a preliminary look. Then before starting on the finish, I put in an order with the glass supplier. (Allow {6" clearance in both dimensions.) You don't want a long wait before putting your new coffee table to work and your craftsmanship on display. N

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

(2) 3/q A Long Frame Rails 1lh x21/z - 41 F Leg Splines (4) 7a hdbd. - x 15tb B Short Frame Rails (2) 1thx2t/z- 21 G Long Grid Bars (16) 3/qx3/q - 20 c Long Divider (1) lthx2t/2- 41 H Short Grid Bars (20) 3/a x3/a- g D Short Dividers (2) a 11/zx2th-9 (4) 7a" Tempered Glass Panels 19rs1,6" x19t5ha") E Leg Sections (8) 13/4x31/2 - 171b a (8) #8 x 21/2' Fh Woodscrews

13/n' x 81/z'- 72' Hard

x EY2" - 72" Harcl (8.5 Bd. th' - E E E E ALSO NEEDED: 24' x 24" hardboard

E E E E

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 29 't i \.?' !.1

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Hinge illortises The drop-front lid on the desk HINGE TEMPLATE on page 32 pivots on three, brass card table hinges. These hinges are recessed into both the lid and the E upper case of the desk. After drilling a hole at each end quick work of routing the shallow I Creating the hinge mortise is a and removing the remaining waste recess for the hinge leaves. m t\,vo-step process. First, a shallow with a jig saw, sand the edges To create the cleeper mortise 10 Size opening mortise is routed for the leaves of smooth with a sanding drum. for the hinge knuckle, first mark to match hinge the hinge. Then, a deeper mortise To use the template, clamp the the edges of the mortise. (This is created for the hinge knuckle. All lid and upper case together, leav- mortise is %" long and centered it takes to do this is a router and a itl.g a 1/16" gap between the edges. (I on the first mortise.) Then, adjust 6 shop-made template. cut a couple of thin strips to use as the bit for a deeper cut and rough TIMPLATI. The template is simply spacers at each end.) Then attach out the bulk of the \,\'aste, stop- a piece of 1/2" plywood with an the template to the desk with some ping just shy of the lavout lines, opening sized to match the hinge. double-sided tape. As you can see as shown in Figure 2. Finallv vou You can use one of the hinges to in Figure 1, a dado clean-out bit can square up the edges of the trace the outline onto the blank. with a top-mounted bearing makes mortise with a chisel.

NOTE: Depth of O. mortise is equal to hinge thickness e mI -) ,, l- TOP VIEW

Eosel Slol To accommodate different sizes of frames, the easel on page 18 has an adjustable clamp. The clamp slides in a slot in the support arm. Using a 3/to"-dia. straight bit, I routed this slot in two passes, raising the height of the bit in between. I began by drawing stop and start lines on the fence of my router table (Figure 1). With the bit raised half way, I lowered the workpiece onto the bit at the start line and routed to the stop line. To complete the slot, simply raise the bit and repeat the process Figure 2.

Woodsmith No.184 leg loper lig Tapering the legs for the coffee and then placing the blank on the table on page 22 presents a chal- base of the jig so one taper lined up lenge. Because each leg is glued up perfectly with the edge of the base. as a mitered assembly, you can't Then, I butted the fence up to the use the same jig setup to taperboth leg and clamped it in place. Next edges. lnstead of making two sepa- drill a pair of holes through the rate jigs, I made one with a mov- fence and partially into the base, able fence, as shown in the photo. as shown in Figure 1. As you can see in the drawing at After removing the clamps, right, the jig is just a ply-wood base turn the leg blank around so that with a narrow fence. A small block the second taper lines up with the of plywood is glued to one edge edge of the jig. Then clamp the of the fence, flush with the end, fence in place again and, using to serve as a stop. This L-shaped the holes in the fence as a guide, This jig allows you FENCE fence will cradle the leg blank as drill a second set of holes in the jig x 173/a" - 3h" ply ) to cut both tapers the tapers are cut. (Figure 2). Now just glue a couple on each table leg ATTACHING IHt ttl'l(t. The fence is of dowel pins in the holes in the without moving secured to the base with a pair of fence and you're ready to go. your rip fence. dowel pins. The pins fit into rwo different sets of holes in the base STOP (11/a" x |t/a" of the jig, depending on which - "a pty') side of the leg you're tapering. The trick is to locate the dowels NOTE: Glue dowel pins and drill the holes in the base so NOTE: Number each pair of into holes everything lines up. holes to aid NOTE: To locate dowel holes in in fence To do this, I started by laying out in positioning base, see drawings below fence the tapers on one of the leg blanks

et.

Flip leg end-for- end to reposi- tion fence

Reposition leg and fence to drill TOP second set of holes \ VIEW through fence - ln base -/ ,/ into hase ,/

Protruding Hinge Screws The lower doors on the drop- front desk are mounted with no- mortise hinges. Although these hinges are easy to install, I came across one catch - the heads of the I CI screws stand proud of the hinge just enough to prevent the doors I from closing properly. enlarg- 0I Cover Up. After In order to solve this problem, I fl I ing the countersinks, use a simply enlarged each screwhole brown permanent marker with a countersinkbit. Then I used Q to cover the bright steel a permanent marker to camouflage to allow icrews around the holes. to seat fully the bright steel rim of the hole. W I

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 3.1 Heirl

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Keep your home offlce or spare noom organized with an attraclive piece of furniture that's as praclical as it is stylish.

I aclmit it rrrv :st, it l.ratl kr keep the Tl-ris - computer cltsk computer trad itior.ral clesisr.r sa tisfies arrrl rrffiec .rre ,tlr,r,rvs ,r solrrce ol crise, printer, ar.rtl other peripheriris all my recluirerments. It looks great frustratior-i r,r'hen it comes to keep- out of sight but stiil allor,r' ther.n to arrd keeps everything organizecl. ing thirgs presentable. The t.rngle stav ctxrl. Secorrd, I n,irntec-l it to l.rave: Best of all, it's a straightfonvarcl of corcls and stacks of paper alr,r,.,tys prlerrtt, of roorn to store the rvcxk- project to builcl. I reliecl on hard- look clisorganized and mess\'. Scr irg pirpers ancl clocr-rnrents that are u,c'rocl veneer Lrlvwooc-l (I chose r'r'lren I set olrt to build a ftrr.rctional ineYit.rLrlV lvitrg aroturcl. Third, r.urd cl'rerry) anrl harclr,r'r'rod eclging ancl aLtractive desk, I had some- c-lef- most inrptxtant, I dir-tr't u,ant it to ancl facing. Nor'r, mv office is both irrite ideras.rbout r,r4r.rt it needed. Iook 1ike. a compr,rter clesk. ne-ater rrrrcl more efficient. i2 \,Vootlsnritlr No. 184 Plywood top is attached to upper cabinet with screws Hardwood facino gives the appearancle ffiffiwffiHffis of OVERALL DIMENSIONS: construction 493/e"H x 421/z"W x 2I "D Slanted front of upper cabinet gives the desk a stylish profile

Flush panel on inside of card table hinges drop-front secure door. See provides flat page 51 for surface for hardware sources keyboard and mouse

Find tips for making and applying edging on page 42

Bullnose edging is made in three easy steps at the router table

Adjustable shelf Stub tenon and handles extra groove joinery storage needs creates sturdy doors

Profile on base frame is created with a combination of routed profile and table saw cuts

Solid base supports the \ hutch

m- Frame and panel construction used on / all doors Glue blocks add strength to the base frame

',: A pull-out shelf for a printer is just one of the handy fea- tures of the drop-front desk.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith JJ O. FRONT VIEW NOTE: Drill FRONT SECTION NOTE: Size rabbets to countersunk screw VIEW match thickness of holes to attach top toplbottom and upper cabinet tf-- - @ LOWER ItY ? CABINET I I Shetr .- TOP | | pinlsteeve NOTE: Top, bottom, IJ L-- sides, and dividers are all 3h" plywood I l1 . I I NorE: b. sroe vrew I J Vsz"-dia. NOTE: Top, bottom, I I s/eeve and sides are | | holes are rabbeted to accept I I %" deep %" plwood back Size rabbet to- hold 1/a" plywood ,\ back -->l . llrl IlI I ayt 6st

@ NOTE: Size LOWER dado to CAB'NET match BOT|OM thickness of divider lUffiilto'N;; The lower cabinet provides a solid top, bottom, and sides for the back sleeves in the left divider to mirror foundation for the desk. It features (detail'b' and box below). those on the left side (detail'c'). a compartment for a PC, a slide-out VIRTKAI. DlVlDfRS. TWo vertical ASSHTIBIY. At this point, you're shelf for a printer, and an adjust- dividers form the compartments ready to assemble the case. I able shelf for additional storage. inside the cabinet. Since they'll started by gluing the dividers in The ply'wood case relies on rabbet fit into the dadoes you cut on the the dadoes in the top and bottom. and dado joinery for strength. top and bottom earlier, there's no Then I added the sides. You might TOP & EOTIOlll. I started with the top need for any further joinery work want to use clamping squares and bottom since most of the layout on these pieces. All you need to do to keep the large case stable and work and joinery cuts are on these is drill the holes for the shelf pin square during the glue up. pieces. After cutting both pieces to size, I installed a dado blade to match the thickness of the plywood and cut the 7a'-deep dadoes for the How-Tol Cut Rabbets two vertical dividers (detail 'd'). I also drilled countersunk holes in the top to attach the upper cabinet. S|DES. Now it's time to work on the sides. After cutting the pieces to size, cut a rabbet at each end on the inside face to hold the top and bottom. Next, I drilled the holes for the adjustable shelf on the inside face of the left side, as shown in detail 'c.' With an auxiliary rip Rabbets on the Top, Bottom & Sides. With an auxiliary rip fence in fence on the table saq you can cut place and a dado blade installed, bury part of the blade in the fence. the rabbets on the back edge of the Adjust the fence to reveal the right amount of blade for each cut.

34 Woodsmith No. 184 NOTE: Facing and edging are made from /a" -thick hardwood. Cut each piece to fit for the best result

ADJUSTABLE NOTE: Attach edging SHELF first, then s/a" add the facing on (1 83/a" x 1 0/4" - ply.) the sides b. FRONT VIEW

1" radius

NOTE: For tips on cutting and o attaching edging, LOWER CABINET BACK NOTE: Attach facing refer to page 42 ' on sides flush with front edging |._5

SHtMS. Next, cut the two shelves 21/s"-wide strips of hardwood. To for the pull-out shelf. As you can to final size. Note the size of the make the edgng you can resaw see in the drawing above, I used a pull-out shelf is 1" narrower than hardwood stock on the table saw spacer for accurate placement. the opening. This allows room for To add the facing, start with the 8Aft The plywood back fits into the metal drawer slides. full-length "stiles" on the sides. the rabbeted opening and adds sta- ADD THt IDGING & tAqilc. To cover the I used long cauls and clamps to bility to the cabinet. After cutting it exposed edges of the plywood I cut attach the facing. After gluing the to size, you'll need to make a small thin ships of hardwood edging. side pieces in position, you can get cutout on the upper and lower You can find out more about how an accurate measurement for the edges for power cords and cable to do this on page 42.I also added horizontal "ralls" and in furn the access. The box below shows an decorative facing on the sides to middle vertical piece. easy way to do this. After you've create the look of framed panels. DRAWTR StlDtS. All that remains finished sanding the cutouts, you These facing pieces are simply now is to attach the drawer slides can attach the back with screws.

Make the Cable Cutouts

NOTE: Clamp workpiece to bench so the cutout hangs over the edge

Start with a Jig Saw. After laying out the shape of Finish with a Sanding Drum. A sanding drum on the cutouts, use a jig saw to cut the curved shape. A the drill press (matching the radius of the curve) makes fine-tooth blade makes a clean cut in the plywood. cleaning up the plwood edge of the cutout a snap.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 35 b. srDE sEctoN vlEW

NOTE: Base panel rests on cleats 1 supported 4% by corner blocks NOTE: Base front, back, sides, and FIRST: Attach cleats I cleats are to base with #8 x 2" 3/a" -thick Fh woodscrews hardwood. Base panel is 3k' plywood SIDE SECTION VIEW Panel flush with top *1l-:--.- ,- edqe of base v/ l\s - Llf--" -\\r- 'll ,."':rDEcLEAr l--.- \ ttb --{q]- Lta i /*\q- =(. \<, \ zBASEBACK \\ \.1(ih"x4//8"-4t") \eY _}/\ SECOND: Attach \@ base panel to c/eats .N,, and back of base with #8 x 11/a" Fh ,fN" ''-.- woodscrews \ 'is\ ,|>.24(Gl/., \ tV e/-!r .7t srDE sEcTroN vtEW o. y'--{,\ d. + R\ sXff \.1 ///' ^_ T-f lN\FRolv 2 2t/z radius 2VaVa 2/z radiusl I 'l ,Lr,5'/B ["\.. 1" \ / f-\-/l ll\[nY6),/ -/ )o@ l It l.- \ aisr.2l --->l ; stD2// FRoNrlol nt ur.wvtEW ----l :3 k-I ; I )torr, \- 6 Attach lower case to base \ CoRNERBLOCK '- ,u with #8 x 11/a" screws ()/Attx 3/4't' 41/8t') Y Y 0ddino the BAsr TR'NL BACK & srDrs. I starstarted by of the front ancl the front encl of :, back, and each side to final lerrgth. ar-rd rough CUI THt CURVIS. nvorr' lav out the Bnbr & DooRs il*#L'"-;xsl::rmove to the curves on the front and sides and router table to add the: decorativedecc cut out the sirape at the band saw profiie on the frame pieces. This or with a jig salr', as shown in the The lower cabinet sits on a base that profile is created by routing a cove illustration below I cleaned up the also adds some decorative details on the top eclge of the front and saw marks with a sanding drum to the desk. It's simply a hardwood sides and then cutting a shoulder for a smooth, even edge. frame with a ply-woocl panel. The on tl.re table saw. The box below ASSIMBIY. With all the frame mitered front corners and tlle rear shows how it's done. pieces complete, you're ready butt joints are reinforced with comer Next, tilt the table saw blade to to assemble the base. I began by blcxks. The base panel rests on cleats 45'. Use a rniter gar"rge to guide the gluing up the miters. An easy and the edge of the base back. or to r miter both errds way to glue up the joints is to lay lolkniece

How-Tol Make the Details on the Base

Edge Profile. *,t1, u r7r"-rad. cove bit installed, final height, then raise it to make a cleanup Cut the Curues. A jig saw with a set fhe fence flush with the bearing. Rout the pass. Finish the profile by cutting the shoulder 6-tpi blade works well to cut the cove in multiple passes. Startwith the bit below at the table saw with the blade raised to t/a". curves in the hardwood base.

36 Woodsmith No. 184 EULLNOSE EDGING the pieces flat on your bench and tape the outside faces of the joints together. Then all you have to do NOTE: Bullnose edging is is apply glue to each surface and %" -thick. Profile is added after assembly to top panel close the joints. The tape seals Knob screw hole in line the miters and prevents glue with lower edge of rail squeezeout on the face. After that, glue up the butt joints on the back and clamp them in position. (ORl{tR B]0CKS & ffATS. Next, add the comer blocks and cleats. The thing to keep in mind here is to position the cleats so the top panel will sit flush with the top of the base. Attach the blocks in the corners with glue and clamps. When the glue has dried, cut the cleats to final size and drill countersunk screw holes to hold the base panel. Install the cleats, as shown in detail'b' on the opposite page. DOOR STILE BASI PAI{tL. Complete the base by cutting the base panel to size. But DOOR RAIL before attaching the cleats you'll NOTE: Door rails and need to drill countersunk holes in stiles are t/a" hardwood; the panel to attach the base to the door panels are 74" plywood; top panel is Va" plywood lower cabinet. See details 'bi 'ci and'd'on the opposite page. NOTE: Width of D00RS. At this point, you can tum groove matches thickness of your attentionto the doors. They're plywood pretty shaightforward frame and +\ panel assemblies built with stub /CI tenon and groove joinery. Attach washer to door You can start by cutting the rails and stiles to size. Then cut a cen- tered groove on the edge of each After cutting the panels to size, All you need to do is mark the loca- piece to match the thickness of the you can assemble the doors. When tion and install the screws. plywood door panels. Now, set the glue dries, drill stopped holes BUltl{0St TOP. To complete the cabi- the rip fence as a stop and use the for the magnetic catches in the cabi- net, cutthe plywood top to size and miter gauge to hold the workpiece net as shown in detail 'b,' then screw glue on the edging. The box below as you form the stub tenons by nib- the washers to the doors. Attach shows how to create the bullnose bling away the ends of the rails. the doors using no-mortise hinges. profile on the front and side edges.

Makin Bullnose Ed

Attach mitered edging leaving it slightly proud on one edge

Edging. Carefully miter the Trim the Edging Flush. Clamp a support Routthe Profile. With a r7r"-rad. roundover bit installed, edging and glue it in place board to the workpiece for the router to set the fence flush with the bearing to guide the work- flush with one face. ride on and trim the edging flush. piece as you rout both sides of the edging.

Woodsrnith.com Woodsmith BULLNOSE EDGING fOP PANEL

BEVELED EDGING

#8 x |th" Fh woodscrew

C. FRONT VIEW 1', radius

@

G.

SIDE Use #8 x 2" Fh SECTION woodscrews to attach VIEW upper cabinet to lower cabinet

L (ABlt{ET TOP & B0n0m. I started by the auxiliary fence makes it easy to mokino cutting the top to length and rough cut the rabbets in the top, bottom, the width. Then I tilted the table saw and back edges of the sides. The blade 18' and ripped the front edge sides are also tapered to 18o. to final width. (This angle defines I used a taper jig on the table saw UpiER CISINET the slope of the cabinet.) You'll also to cut the angled front edge (box need to drill countersunk holes below). When cutting the tapers, The upper cabinet with its slanted- for the screws that attach the top. just keep in mind that the left and front is perfect for housing a flat- Next, cut the bottom to final size right sides are mirror images. screen monitor as well as the key- and set it aside for now. BACK. Now you can cut the 7.+" board and mouse. The drop-down SIDES. After cutting the sides to ply'wood back to size and make the door opens to provide a worksur- overall size, I attached an auxiliary cutout for cord access to (detail'c'). face. This cabinet is attached to the fence and installed a dado blade in Then drill countersunk screwholes, lower cabinet with screws. the table saw. Burying the blade in as shown in detail'd.'

How-Tol Make the An led Cuts

Align shoulder of rabbet with edge of

workpiece a.t' -orl. ' Edge of jig correct angle i" aligned with

Taperthe Sides. Position cleats on a taper- Cut the Facing. Use an auxiliary fence ing jig to define the angle of the taper so on the miter gauge to cut and fit each you can cutthe srdes to final shape. piece of facing individually.

38 Woodsmith No. 184 See page 30 to install card table UPPER DOOR hinges STILE ASSEtIBIY. At this point, you're ready to assemble the case. After Leave edoe of the glue has dried, it's time to add Iower railiquare the edging. And for the sloped (l 5/a" x 37/2" - 1/q'ply.) front of this cabinet, you'll need to do a few things different than you did on the lower cabinet. For a start, the upper strip of edging on the case top needs to be beveled on both edges to conform NOTE: Rout bullnose to the sloping sides. You'll find an profile on easy way to cut the beveled edging upper rail and stiles onpage42. After installing the top after UPPER DOOR RAIL piece, I cut the strips of side edg- assembly ing with an 18o miter on each end (detail'b'). This way, the edging fits SIDE SECTION VIEW Use one #8 x th" the beveled top strip and the square Rout bullnose flathead screw in each after assembly hinge to anchor door lower edging perfectly. fAClilG. You can now add the fac- ing to the sides. Once again, it's all about getting the angles right. The right illustration at the bottom of 1lh"-dia. x 11/a" the opposite page shows how I cut it at the table saw. I cut and fit each 1/a" piece sequentially, starting with thickness of plir.vysod varies, the stiles and upper rail using the the vertical pieces. you'll need to measure the com- same techniques as before. After TOP. The addition of the top com- bined thickness of the two pieces to the glue dries, cut and install the pletes the cabinet. Cut the ply- calculate the position of the groove inside ply'wood panel with glue. wood to final size and attach the in the frame pieces. HlllGES & Kl{08. The door attaches edging. Then, head to the router You can start by cutting the rails with inset "card table" hinges. I table and rout the bullnose profile and stiles to final size. Nex! cut the antiqued the brass hinges using a as you did for the lower cabinet. slightly offset groove for the ply- commercially available solution After fastening the top panel to the wood panel in the rails and stiles (refer to Sources on page 51 for cabinet, you can attach the back. based on the plywood thickness. details). Thery I made a template to D00R. Like the doors on the lower The box below has a few tips to rout the mortises (see Shop Note- \' cabinet, the upper cabinet door also help you here. After that, you can book on page 30). As you can see Shop Notebook uses frame and panel construction, cut the tenons on the rails with the in detail 'a,' above, I installed the on page 30 relying on stub tenon and groove dado blade using a miter gauge. hinges with screws and added one shows how to joinery. But this door requires a sec- D00R ASSilEtY. With the plywood longer screw to help strengthen rout the hinge ond panel on the inside to create a panel cut to size, assemble the door to the hinged joint. Finally, drill a mortises using a worksurface that's flush with the with glue and clamps. You'll then hole for the door knob and secure simple template. door frame. And since the actual need to rout the bullnose profile on it in place with a machine screw.

Maki the Frame & Panel Door

NOTE: Cut inside panel to fit opening in door frame

Cut the Offset Groove. Set the rip fence to match the thickness of Douhte Panels. The inside door panel provides a flat sur-face theplywoodpanelandmakethefirstcut.Then,movethefenceand when the door is open. A1 you need to do is glue itto the widen the groove to accommodate the outside panel. outside panel after assembting the door.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith NOTE: O. FRONT VIEW Organizer sides and c' ToP vrEW shelves are %" plywood. Back is 1/a" plywood.

EDGING

(121/zx 173/e -%'ply.)

5'/8

'/4 @ SIDE @ 3%

NOTE: Drawer frontlback are 3/t" G. -thick hardwood. 1/2" Cut Sides are -thick groove hardwood. '/4 to thick-. DRAWER , ness ol BOTTOM

oddino on t.-.)- Q-!

1/a" 1 0[onNrzER brad

In addition to holding your com- sides and the rabbets on the top tDGlt{G. As you can see in the puter's monitor, keyboard, and and bottom edges. Detail'a,'above drawing above, the exposed ply- mouse, the upper cabinet houses shows the spacing of the dadoes wood front edges of the organizer a handy desk organizer. The orga- and rabbets. To complete the sides, are covered wlth 3/s" hardwood nizer features shelves for papers you can use the auxiliary rip fence edgng.The edging for the middle and DVDs and a drawer for other to rabbet the back edge. three shelves has a decorative shal- supplies. And since the organizer SHtwtS. After cutting the five low recess. You can cut the recess isn't attached to the cabinet, you plywood shelves to size (two of at the band saw and sand it using a can place it wherever you need it. which serve as the top and bot- sanding drum, as shown in the box SIDIS. I got to work on the orga- tom of the organizer), assemble below. Once you've completed the rizer by cutting the sides to size. the case by fitting the shelves into recesses/ simply install the edging Then, with a dado blade set to the dadoes and rabbets in the with glue and clamps. After that, match the thickness of the ply- case. GIue and clamps are all you you can cut the 7+" ply.wood back wood, I cut the dadoes in both need to finish the assembly. to size and attach it with screws.

How-Tor Cut the Shetf-Ed Profi[e

Lay Out the Recess. After cutting the Band Saw Cuts. A 1/q' blade on the Quick Sanding. With a sanding drum edging to length and dry fitting it in the band nw makes the curved cut a breeze chucked in the drill press, clean up the saw assembly, mark the layout of the curve. and leaves a fairly smooth surface. marks with a few light passes.

40 Woodsmith No. 184 DRAWIR. A small drawer rounds same techniques you used on the out the organizer. I started build- edging to make the cutout. Now, ing the drawer by cutting the sides, all that remains is to cut the drawer front, and back to final size. Then I bottom to size and assemble the installed a dado blade in the table drawer. After gluing up the back saw and cut the rabbets on the and sides, simply slip the bottom front and back. Next, you'll need into position and then attach the to cut a groove in all four pieces for front. I used a couple of brads in the Ta" plywood drawer bottom as each corner to reinforce the glue shovyn in detail'e.' joint, as shown in detail'f.' The drawer front also has a deco- Then, after the finish is applied, rative cutout on the top edge (detail it won't be hard to find the perfect The handy desk organizer keeps things 'd,' opposite page). You can use the spot for this desk. Sn neat and uncluttered on the desktop.

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

Lower Cabinet & Base (2) | 5 R Door Panel /a ply. - 161 /1 6 x 19s /6 FF Shelves (5) t/o pty. - 73/q - 121/z 3/a A Top/Bottom (2) ply.- 40 191/4 (1) 3/q x S Top Panel ply - 203/n x 42 GGEdging (1) 3/nx3/a - 8' Rgh. 3/q B Sides (2) ply. - 231/a x 19th Bullnose (1) t/ax3/a 1/a T Edging - 10' Rgh. HH Back (1) ply. - 173/6x 121/z C Vertical Dividers (2) 3hpty -221/qx19 ll Drawer Sides (2) t/zx8 - 37ha 3/q D Adjustable Shelf (1) ply. - 183/a x 101/q 3/ax37ha Upper Cabinet JJ Drawer Frnt/Back (2) - 113/a 3/q E Pull-out Shelf (1) ply. - 173/a 181/e (1) 3/a x U Top ply - 40 x93/4 KKDrawer Bottom (1) 74pty. - 107/sx7t/z 1/4 F Eack (1) ply. - 40 x223/a (1) 3/q pty. j5t V Bottom - 40 x /a . (34) #8 x 11 /q" Fh Woodscrews Edsing (1) t 3/4 - 3/q G /4 x 30' Rgh. W Sides (2) ply. - 19 x 151/z . (20) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews Facing (1) 1/qx21/q- t/aply.-40x19 H 20'Rgh. X Back (1) . (33) #6 x3/4"Fh Woodscrews Base Front (1) 3/txss/e-421/z t/qx3/a-39 I Y Beveled Edqing (1) . (1 pr.) 21/z"x3l+" Flush Bronze Hinges Base Back (1) 3/qx - 3/q J 47/e 41 Z lop Panel (1) ply. - 1|t/q x 42 r (4) 5mm Steel Shelf Pins Base Sides (2) 31ax55/s-21 :/a K AADoor Rails (2) x zt /q - 371/z . ('16) 5mm Steel Shelf Pin Sleeves Corner Blocks (4) 3/qx3/4 3/tx2t/n L - 41/8 BB Door Stiles (2) - i85/e . (2 pr.) Card Table Hinges M Front Cleat (1) 3/qx11/z-4i 1 CC Outside Panel ('l) /4 ply. - 151 /6 x 371 /2 . (1 pr.) 18" Drawer Slides N Side Cleats (2) 3/ax t/aply. ltb - 18 DDlnside Panel ('l) - 141/6x361/2 o (l) 1lla"-dia x 1lle" Knobs O Base Panel (1) 3/q ply.- 41 x201/t . (2)1/z'-dia. Rare-Earth Magnets w/Cups Door (4) 3/n P Rails x 2t /q - i6lsha Organizer & Washers 3/ax21/q Q Door Stiles (4) - 231b EE Sides (2) 3/aply -8x173/e 24' x 48" 3/n' 3/n" sheet 48" x 96" sheet Cherry plywood Cherry plywood

(3.3 Bd. Ft.)

ALSO NEEDED: One-48" x96" sheet 1/t" Cherry plywood

3/a" 48" x 96"sheet 3h' x 6" - 95" Cherry Bd. Ft.) @ Cherry plywood

3/t" x 4" - 96' Cherry Q.6 Bd. Ft.)

h x 5" - 96" Cherry p.3 Sq. Ft.)

( 3.3 Bd. Ft. )

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 41 "'

:i tril *

; irJi.

seamtess ptwvood Edgi ng Covering plywood edges with grain-matched hardwood edging is a breeze if you l

Plywood is a practical choice SIOCK SlLtCTlON. Attractive edging as well-suited for these cuts and '" should blend in as seamlessly as can often result in burn marks that ,,, f,::*i:"*Tffiilffi1: possible with the ply'wood. So I take a lot of sanding or planing tcr .\ *..\o than solid wood, and saves a start by choosing the stock care- remove (top photo at lefQ. \ lot of time over gluing up larg;e fully. I o{ten cut a test strip and Tl-re next step is to set the rip : \'IF:r. panels. The only downside is wipe it and the plywood with min- fence. For most applications, 7+"- . . : :r you'll have to deal with the eral spirits to get an idea of what thick edging is sufficient, and you problem of exposed ply.wood they'll look iike after finishing. can rnake this cut safely by setting 1/t" A good rip blade edges. There are several options for SlZlt{cTHt tDGlNG. Generally, you can the fence ior a cut and using a makes a smooth covering the edges, but I usually make edging from common 4/4 thin push block (lead photo). cut (top). A com- opt for making my own 7+ -thick stock by planing it slightly thicker For edging thinner than la",Ipre- b i nati on b lad e hardwood edging in the shop. This (about Zr.") than the ply-wood and fer to cut the strips on the "outside" often burns allowsmekrmakesurelgetagood ther-r cutting strips from the edge. of the blade instead. A ripping the stock. match for the color and grain of the This wav you n'on't need to worry guide in the miter slot can make ply.wood. And, if yor-r follow a few about trimming it flush, just a light short work of this. The illustra- simple principles, it's easy to do. sanding is all it takes. tion at ihe top of the opposite page After planing the stock to thick- shows you how it works. Taking the time to match the ness, you're ready to move to the Now you can make the cuts. If color and grain of the edging table saw While cr,rtting the edging you're not satisfied with the quality to the plywood makes for is a pretty straightforward opera- of the surface after the cut, you can , a seamless transition. tion, ihere are a few things to keep always joint the edge of the board in mind. First, make sure to install after eacl-r cut. This results in one /r----- Plywood a good rip blade in the table saw. A perfectly clean face for each strip. Matched high-quality rip blade will leave a The other side is still good enough f-hardwood edging surface that needs little follolv-up for a glue surface. It's also a good work. Combination blades are not idea to cut a couple of extra pieces

42 Wooclsrnith No.184 Cut expansion Beveled Trim slot at banrl saw or with tightened, slot handsaw . gxpands lo

Countersunk screw hole Notch in mitdr gauge

b. sEcTtoN vlEW

while you have the table saw set up. These pieces can be a lifesaver if you make a mistake later. Cutting the beveled edging for the drop- PRIPARIIIG THI P[YW00D. Making the front desk on page 32 is just a matter of tilt- edging is only the start of the pro- ing the blade on your table saw cess. Before installing it, I like to make sure the plywood edges are straight and smooth. A smooth edge IAP[. The first thing to try is to brad grabs the edging and holds it allows the glue to adhere properly simply tape the edging in place in place while you add clamps. The and maintain its strength through- before clamping. Usually, this will drawingbelow shows what I mean. out the life of the proiect. After that, keep the piece straight. tr fact, if SAI{Dlllc. With the edging installed, you're ready to cut the edging to fit you're working on an assembled the last step is to make sure it's and attach it to the plywood. This project, tape mightbe all the clamp- flush with the plywood. For this, all is where a little patience and a few ing power you need. you need is a simple sanding block easy techniques pay off. BRAD$. You may run into situations like the one shown in the far right For information on lilSTAttlt{c THI tDGlt{G. Normally, glu- when tape doesn't prevent slip- drawing below. Simply a cut notch making your ing the edging to the plywood is ping. This often happens on longer in the block to match the thickness own shop-made simply a matter of spreading glue workpieces or when applying edg- of the edging. This way, you don't ripping jig, on the ed$ng, adding a caul, and ing to an angled surface. For these have to worry about visit our website at accidentally Woodsmith.com clamping it in place. Sometimes, situations, I use brads to hold the sanding through the thin plywood however, the glue can make the edgtng. I don't nail them through veneer as you dress the edge. surfaces slippery and difficult to the outside, which would spoil the These techniques make adding hold the edging in position while appearance. Instead, I tap them into edging to ply'wood a simple task. clamping. Fortunately, there are a the edge of the pll.wood and cut And that frees you to use plywood couple easy fixes for this problem. the heads off. The sharp end of the creatively in your projects. El

HowTo:A Ed in

Snip head off brad, Ieavinq approximately thz" exposed

Use masking tape for a tight joint

Clamping Strategies. When possible, use a cauland clamps Brads. Clipping the heads off Sanding Biock. A blxk with a rab- to altach the edging. When adding edging to an assembled of a series of brads in the ply- bet cut to match the thickness of the project, masking tape can take the place of clamps. wood helps hold the edging. edging makes short work of nnding.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 43 tips for taming Router Table Tearout Tearout on the router table shouldn't be something you have to live with. Here are a few simple steps you can take to avoid it,

for joinery or adding So whenever I have a choice on Whether it's Groin a decorative profile to the edge of a I n"oo the which edge of a board I'm rout- workpiece,I use my router table on I J.rrt like the fur on the back ing, I take a look at the workpiece just about every project. And there of a cat, the grain along the edge of to "read" the grain before feeding are few things more frustrating a board tends to run in one direc- it into the router bit. To minimize when using the router table than tion. If you feed the workpiece tearout, the grain should run off hearing the splintering sound of into the bit "against the grain," the edge of the board in the same tearout. It's usually a signal that the odds of experiencing tearout direction as the rotation of the bit, I'm going to be in for a lot of sand- greatly increase. as shown in the drawing below. ing or that I'm going to have remake a part. Fortunately, aside from starting with a good, sharp bit, there are several steps you can take to prevent - tearout from happening. \KT 1---- I Here's a look at five, simple ',',-,;r,'J,follovus grain, i..a ;i-?,:,,i;d: . strategies that I use in my Whenever possible, I try to orient the --airiition .-- . shop for combating tearout workpiece so the grain runs "down- ----' - -=-'likelihoodof---tearout on the router table. hill" from the feed direction.

44 Woodsmith No. 184 )snonow Posses ^f \ou may have noiiceci that Usually, I'll set the bit to the cor- tearout seems to occur more often rectheight and use the fence to con- when you're taking a heavy cut. trol the depth of cut (see drawing). I If you try to "hog off" too much start with the fence positioned for a material in one pass, the bit tends light cut. Then I gradually move the to pull out large chunks from the fence back between passes. Tuki.g workpiece. A good way to avoid shallow passes removes less mate- this problem is to rout the profile rial at a time, giving you a smoother in multiple, shallow passes. cut with minimal tearout.

Botk lt Up fln"frce the 0pening Without a doubt, the worst past the bit. (I actually rout into I Another way to control situation for tearout on a router the backer board for about an inch tearout is to provide support for table is when you're routing across or so, as you can see in the lower the workpiece as close to the edge end grain. As the bit exits the cut, drawingbelow.) of the bit as possible. Some router A zero- it's almost guaranteed to pull large The backer board supports the table fences have adjustable faces clearance splinters out of the trailing edge of wood fibers as the router bit exits that allow you to adjust the size of auxiliary fence the workpiece, as shown in the the cut, preventing tearout. the opening to match thebityou're provides extra upper drawing at right. using. But for even more support, support for There are a couple of ways to you can make a "zero-clearance" the workpiece. deal with this problem. If I'm auxiliary face for your routing across all four edges of router table fence. a workpiece, the easiest solu- Simply trace the bit pro- tion is to simply rout the ends file onto a piece of hard- of the workpiece first. This way, board and cut it out with the areas of end grain tearout on a or jig saw. the workpiece will be cleaned up Thery attach the auxiliary when you rout the long edges. face to your router fence BACKTR BOARD. One other method with double-sided tape. of avoiding end grain tearout is to The reduced opening use a backer board. This is nothing provides back-up support more than a scrap piece of wood to the edge of the work- that is held against the back edge piece, all the way up to of your workpiece as you push it the router bit.

The only problem with backrout- 5::::::."^t"',",r.",uen,,y Set fence for Bit set to rely on my router table for is cutting ing on a router table is the tendency t/tz"-deep cut full height rabbets. And I find that it's pretty for the bit to grab the workpiece common to get tearout along the and pull it forward, or kick it out upper shoulder of the rabbet. This away from the fence. This is espe- kind of tearout has a lot to do with cially true when taking a heavy the direction that the workpiece is cut using a large bit. HoweveX, if fed into the router bit. done safely, there are occasions When routing in the "normal" when backrouting can really help direction on a router table (from to avoid tearout.

right to left), the cutting edges of The trick to backrouting safely Iake severa/ passes the bit remove material from the is to take a very light pass (about in normal direction to complete rabbet workpiece as they exit the cut. As 1/s2" deep), as shown in the upper a result, the bit tends to chip fibers drawing at right. This initial pass along the edge of the workpiece. establishes a clean, crisp upper But by feeding the workpiece shoulder for the rabbet. Once this into thebitfrom the opposite direc- is done, you can remove the rest tion (backrouting), the bit is cutting of the waste by routing in the asitenters the workpiece. So you'll opposite direction, just as you see eliminate most tearout. in the lower drawing at right. SI

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 45 creating a distressed o MilkI Paint Fir With help from a random collection of "tools" and the vibrant color of milk paint, you can create an authentic-looking, time-worn flnish,

Today, it seems like old is new. the experts. The bonus is that since The milk proteins (casein) play the Painted finishes that are distressed the goal is simply an old and well- role of binder in the paint. (Casein to simulate years of wear and tear worn look, the technique is easy is also used as an ingredient in on a project are quite popular - and very forgiving. certain types of glue.) Milk paint and for good reason. Applying a ml[K PAll{T. One of the best ways to comes in powdered form and is casual, distressed-paint finish offers achieve this casual look is to take mixed with water as needed. It's a pleasantbreak from a fussier and advantage of the vibrant colors of easy to apply, dries fast, and gives much more demanding "formal" haditional milk paint. Milk paint you a rustic, washed look that finish. And on the right project, is quite different from modem oil- instantly adds authenticity. Iike the box-jointed tray from based or latex . Basically, it IAYERS. The sequence of steps Woodsmith No. 183 shownhere, the consists of a mixfure of milk pro- used to recreate the history of wear result mightbe good enough to fool teins, lime, and natural pigments. and hard use a project might show

Start the process by adding years of wear with Next, use your "distressing" A coat of red milk paint comes some vigorous sanding. Concentrate on the tools to add to the history with next. Don't worry about corners, sharp edges and other likely spots. dings, dents, and scratches. smooth, even coverage.

46 Woodsmith No.184 is detailed in the photos below You'll find that milk paint works and the main photo at left. As you differently than other paints. can see, a distressed-paint finish is The water in the paint is quickly created in built-up layers of finish absorbed into the wood, so you'll and wear and tear. get little flow. You just have to fln$ S0|NMIAR. You start by add- brush a little more vigorously ing some serious wear to your than you otherwise would. project in the form of vigorous The paint may appear streaky sanding. Don't be afraid to be and not cover evenly, but this aggressive. Knock off all the sharp is normal for miik paint. Since edges and comers. Certain areas this is simply a base coat, basic (like the handle) would naturally coverage is all you're after. receive more weaq, so give these t{l0Rl YIARS. Once the paint dries, spots special attention. Don't you can add more years of age to worryr about overdoing it. Just try the tray. Start with sandpaper and to imagine the toll that a hundred remove the paint from the edges, S The bright years or more of use would take. corners, and obvious wear areas. dirt and Sime. To simulate this, color of milk DISIRISS. Now you'll add some You want raw wood to show again. I glazed the entire project with a paint and a insult to your sanding rnjury. Then add a few more decades of light brown oil stain. This gives large dose of Dents, dings, scratches, and wear and tear to some of the "high the bare wood an aged color and wear and tear gouges are the natural result of traffic" spots with your arsenal of the painted surfaces a well-used, team up for an years of use. This distress can be tools, as shown in the main photo slightly dirty appearance. authentic, added using just about anything on the opposite page. Go over the entire project, wip- aged look. handy. Keys, bolts, nails, a , A StCOl{D COALAfter all this use and ing on a light coat of stain and then a screwdrive4, or any other hard abuse, the tray is due for another wiping off the excess quickly. The object will all work well. coat of paint. But this time around, goal is to leave some stain on the The idea is to make this abuse you'll want to use a different color. painted surfaces and bare wood, look general and unplanned, as it (I used Soldier Blue.) The process in the distressed areas, and in the would naturally occur. So work for applying the paint is the same. cracks and crevices where dirt over all the surfaces, maybe concen- And agakr, don't worryr if the cov- would naturally accumulate. trating just a bit more on the edges erage isn't complete and even. A PR0IICIW fllllSH. The final step is 'and otherspots thatwouldbe more A HARD Ll;I. The next step is to a bit ironic. After your best efforts vulnerable. Again don'tbe shy. You again expose some of the raw at making the project look old and don't want to break anything, but wood and the underlying red beat up, you want to protect it make the damage noticeable. paint. Sandpaper is your tool for from ftuther wear. So a light top- A (0AI 0t PAIM. Now comes the this step. Hit the corners, edges, coat of low-gloss spray lacquer, or first coat of milk paint - a deep, handlg and natural wear areas. water-based finishis inorder. Now rich Barn Red. This is pretty A llTllt DIRT AllD GRIME. Now there's you can put your hard work on straightforward. Mix up enough just one missing feature that will display and prepare for the inevi- paint according to the directions complete the look - the "patina" table question, "Where did you and apply it with a foambrush. created by the accumulation of find that great antique?" [il

A After adding more wear and & When the blue paint is dry * A light brown oil stain adds a patina of grime teal brush a coat of blue sand through it to expose and age. The stain will darken the bare wood paint over the red. red paint and bare wood. and subdue the bright color of the paint.

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 47 g{dinS,

When the task is woodcarving, I'll used as a decorative element for So essentially, you're halfway readily admit to being out of my cenfuries. And it canbe carved suc- home before you e\rer have to pick comfort zone. But, on the other cessfully with just a few tools and a up a carving tool. hand, I've found that not all carv- minimum of practice. THt T001.5. Carving berry and rod ing is equally challenging. Acase in WHIRI. Berry and rod molding molding onJy requires lwo carving point is making simple, repetitive can be used in place of a simpler tools - a gouge and a skew chisel. moldings like the berry and rod molding. It makes an eye- But one key is to use a gouge with shown above. Also called "bead catching dividing element or edge a curve or "sweep" that matches and rod" or "ball and sausage," treatment. An example is shown at the shape of your initial bead this traditional molding has been the top of the opposite page. molding. For example, since here PRFtORmtD. A major reason for I'm working with a 7+ -dia. bead, The tool kit for carving berry and rod the ease in carving this molding I used a #9 x 7a" s\.r/eep Sollge. molding is pretty basic - all you need is that you start out with a pre- This makes it much easier to form is a gouge and a skew chisel. formed profile - a common bead. nicely rounded berries and rods.

How-Tor St Techni

NOTE: Length of berry equals width of bead. Length of rod equals three berries

O. Mark"dimples" on crown of bead

Rout a Bead. You start the mold- A Simple Layout. To lay out the carving, use Dividing Cuts. Simply "roll" the skew ing by routing a "shouldered" bead dividers to mark a 3-to-1 series of berries and chisel over the bead with firm pressure to on the edge of a wide blank. rods along the crown of the bead molding. make dividing cuts on the layout marks.

48 Woodsmith No. 184 GgITll{c SIARTID. The technique for R0Ul{DlllG (UTS. At this point, making berry and rod molding is yqu're ready to pick up the shown in the How-To box below. gouge. To cut the rounded The first step is to rout a bead on ends of the berries and rods, the edge of a wide blank. (\A/hen the gouge is used hollow side the carving is completed, the down. Holding the gouge molding is ripped free at the table nearly parallel to the bead, saw) I used 78 Lthick stock and left lay it over a berry centering a %0" shoulder on either side of it between two dividing cuts. the bead. The shoulders define the NoW lift the handle as you depth of the carved profile. gently push the gouge down IAY0UT. Next, you can clamp the into the dividing cut to form workpiece into the bench vise and one end of the berry. lay out the individual elements. If your control is good and For this, a pair of dividers (two are the wood is cooperative, this better) comes in handy. The length can be accomplished in one cut. But R[]lt{lt{c. The final step is to use r When applied of each berry matches the width of this is rarely the case for me. More the gouge to define and refine the below a crown the bead molding - here 7a". Each than likely, you'll need several cuts profiles. Hold the chisel vertically molding, a rod is the length of three berries, to form a well-rounded end. Tiy to and work around each berryr and berry and rod or 7+". You lay out three berries avoid digging the heels of the cut- rod end using gentle pressure to can add an followed by one rod. Just mark a ting edge into the shoulder of the lighily incise the wood. Called interesting series of small dimples along the molding. But this is easier said than "grounding", this gives the ele- layer of detail. crown of the bead molding. done. So don't worry if you end up ments a crisp, distinct look. ll{ClSlNG (UTS. You'll begin the with small nicks. A final once-over, smoothing carving by using the skew chisel I like to make eight or ten cuts in any irregularities and refining the to "incise" a dividing line at each one direction, then flip the work- shapes, completes the carving. layout mark. Place the heel of the piece around to complete the other Don't worryr about minor inconsis- chisel at the intersection of the half of each berry and rod. Don't tencies between the elements. It's shoulder and the bead and "roll" be obsessed with cutting perfectly the overall effect that's important. it up while applying firm pres- rounded berries. You can take time fllllOR SAllDll{G.I don't spend much sure. Stop just past the top of the to refine the shapes later on. time sanding. You want the mold- bead and readjust the position of OtAl{ THt SH0UI.DER. After shaping ing to retain its hand-carved look. the chisel to make the cut down a set of berries and rods, switch Just use the folded edge of the the opposite side. The trick is to do back to the skew to clean the sandpaper to clean a bit between this without nicking the shoulder. waste from the "comers" between the berries and smooth the tops. The cut doesn't need to go clear the elements. I like to use both the Finally, you can carefully cut the to the shoulder across the entire point and the heel of the chisel to molding from the blank. And you'll bead. ]ust make it deep enough to remove the remaining chips and have a small, but very impressive, provide a good starting point. smooth and level the background. detail to add to your project. El

Skew chisel used to clean NOTE: remaining waste and Start with gouge Hold gouge be necessarv to centered form rounded'end verticallv and upside apply light down on NOTE: Grounding gives each berry and rod distinct Work point of chisel appearance between berries and rods to remove remaining chips

Lift handle and push Make very light incising to round over berry cutsB around Derimeterperimeter ofo', beads and rod ends

Rounding Cuts. With the gouge centered Cleanup. After shaping the berries and Grounding. Light, veftical incising over the berry apply fonruard pressure and rods, use the skew chisel to remove the cuts will make each berry and rod end tip it down into the dividing cut. remaining chips and smooth the shoulder. stand out from the background.

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Saw Blade Sharpening

Arn" cost of sharo- purchase a new one They can usually replace whether to sharpen or \Ienrng a tabte saw depends on a number damaged teeth, replace a saw blade. lf blade seems to be about of factors.The first is the As you inspect the the cost of sharpening half the cost of a new overall condition of the teeth, you can often tell if and repairing broken blade. Will the sharpened saw blade. the cutting edges are no teeth is close to the cost blade pertorm as well or PlTff EUlltrUP. A dirty longer sharp. You'll see of a new blade, l'll opt should I just buy a new blade will exhibit many a shiny edge caused by for the new blade. saw bladeT of the same signs as a a slight rounding on the PRoftsslol{Al txPtnrtr{ct. lf Bob Taylor dull blade, but it may not carbide teeth. But if the you decide to have Portales, Nsw Mexico be dull at all. So to get a teeth are in good condi- your blade sharp- good look atthe condition tion, you can put it back ened, there's one other A You can tell the saw ofthe teeth, I'll first clean in use in your saw. thing to consider. And Aot"o" is duttwhen it the blade thoroughly, us- PRtvloustY SHARPft{tD. lf that's the experience of starts to take more effort ing a commercial blade the blade has been your sharpening ser- to feed the workpiece into cleaner and a brass wire sharpened before, you vice. Some blades re- the blade, or you experi- brush. This will remove need to take a look at quire special sharpen- ence burning on a cut. most of the pitch and how much carbide is ing techniques due to Deciding whether to sawdust on the blade. left on the teeth. When the geometry of the saw sharpen the blade or T00lH (OllDIIl0l{. With the there's not much "meat" teeth. Most sharpening blade clean, you can get left, it's time to get a new services use automated a good look at the cut- blade. Your sharpening equipment to sharpen ting edge of the teeth. service can help you blades, so it pays to find lf you find any chips in decide whether or not out about their experi- the carbide teeth, like there's enough material ence up front. those shown in the top left to sharpen. Finally, it's a good idea photo at left, it's time to (05T. For me, the overall to ask other woodwork- consider sending it off expense is the determin- ers in your area for to a sharpening service. ing factor in deciding recommendations. M

+ After a little clean Do youhave up, it's easy to spot a chipped tooth on arry questions for us? a saw blade, like the lf you have a question related to woodworking tech- one in the upper niques, tools, finishing, hardware, or accessories, photo at left. The we'd like to hear from you. inset photo shows Just write down your question and mail it to us: the same saw blade Woodsmith O&A, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, after sharpening. lowa 50312. Or you can email us the question at: The edges are square woodsmith @woodsmith.com. and clean. And all of Please include your full name, address, and day- the carbide is intact. time telephone number in case we have questions.

50 Woodsmith No.184 hardware & supplies Sources .s,

KI{OCK.DOWI{ TASTENERS set-up blocks were purchased DROP.TRONI DESK lIlAl L Knock-down fasteners come in a from Lee Val/ey (05N58.01). All of the hardware items used ORDE R multitude of styles.The arlicle on to build the desk on page 32 SOURCES page just 8 shows a few of the rRAmlr & EAsEl are available from Lee Valley. Project supplies more common ones. To build the picture frame on page The list includes the no- may be ordered from fhe Blum KD fittings (#1484151 18, all you'll need are some brass- mortise hinges (00H51.23), steel the J.Ofollowinq and surface-mount connectors plated tu rnbuttons.These are avail- shelf pins (00S10.52), shelf pin companrcs: (#1485751both came from Wood- able from Rockler (279121. sleeves (00S10.62), card table Woodsmith Store craft. Lee Valley carries the metal The brass knurled thumb nut, hinges (00W23.01), drawer 800-444-7527 Brnss Set-Up Blocks, biscuit fasteners (00521.10), the machine screw, washer (02K62.451, and used slides bronze knobs Cnp Nuts, Connector Bolts, tension rod nuts (05G07.10), and for the clamp on the easel can be (02W14.44), and the rare-earth Ctoss Douels, the corner joiners (00S14.02). obtained from a local hardware magnets (99K31.01), steel mag- Gen o'nl F i rtishes' S t nins, The connector Kt rock-Dozm F n st en ers, bolts, cap nuts, store or home center. net cups (99K32.51), and steel Turtfurttoils and cross dowels are available When it came to finishing, we washers (99K32.61). Amazon.com in a number of sizes and finishes used General Finishes' Gel Stain The solution used to antique Brnss Sct-Up Blocks, from Lee Valley and Rockler. (Javal on the easel and the frame the card table hinges came from Milk Point

trim.To bring out the figure of the Van Dykeb Restorers. And the Lee Valley sInooTH suRtAcr curly maple, a coat of General desk was stained with three parts 800-871-8158 A scraper is a great way to get Finishes' Seal-a-Cell was wiped Zar Cherry Stain and part leevalley.com one Aluninnn Set-Up Blocks, a glass-smooth finish without onto the frame facing. Then Wood Kote Jel'd Stain (Cherryl. Cabitrct Scrapers, sanding. Both the cabinet scraper everything was finished with a Cnp Nuts, Connector Bolts, Conrcr Crus DotLtels, and scraper plane shown in the couple coats of lacquer. ffiTK PAINI FII{ISH loitrcrs, DroyrFront Desk Hordunre , afticle on page 10 will help make We purchased the milk paint used Knock-Dotur Fnstarcrs, this task easier. The Veritas cabi- COFTEE IIB1T in the article on page 46 from Mctnl Biscttit Fosteners, net scraper is sold by LeeValley The only hardware you'll need to Woodcraft. Scrnper Plnnes, lt's also available Tatsion Rod Nuts (05P32.05) and the scraper plane build the coffee table on page 22 directly from the Old-Fashioned is from Lie-Nielsen. Both com- is a handful of woodscrews. We Milk Paint Company.W Lie-Nielsen Toolworks 800-327-2520 panies also offer other styles of purchased lheV+" tempered glass lie-nielsen.com 0nline (uslomer scraper planes as well. from a local glass shop. Service Cnbittct Stnpers, The legs and frame of the table Click on Mogozine Customer Service ot Scrnper Plntrs www.wdsmith.com SH.UP B1OCKS are unstained, but the cherry Old-Fashioned r Access your occounl slolus Brass set-up blocks (like the ones grids were stained with a mixture Milk Paint Company . ftonge your moiling or emoil oddres shown on page 121 can be pur- parts 866-350-6455 of three Zar Cherry Stain your nilkpaint.com 'Poy bill chased from parl Pnirt several ofthe wood- and one Wood Kote Jel'd . Renew your subscriplion Milk (Cherry). working suppliers shown in the Stain Then the whole . Tell us if you've missed on issue Rockler margin at right. The aluminum table was finished with lacquer. o Find oul il your poyment hos been received 800-279-444't rockler.com Brass Sct-Up Blocks, (9 Calt Nuts, Connector Bolts, s Cross D otpels, Knock- Dotun a F n stcners, Tt uttbu t t ot'ts

t- Van Dyke's Restorers $t<- l [!tsE -t 800-558-1234 S.VOIUME UBRARYSET $r$[$FtF vandykes.com Get oll 8 hordbound volumes of Woodsmith 'stg Brnss BI nckcn in g Sol u t iotr, - r$ Milk Ptitrt (Volumes 22 through 29). Eoch volume includes o yeor of issues, | n! l " : plus o toble of contents ond o hondy index. !,! Woodcraft 800-225-1153 Regulor Price ...... 5239't',V woodcraft.com Subscriber Discount Price ...... $.l59.95 SAlf Olfi;R $75 Bhuu KD Fittings, FREE Milk Pnint, Surfuce-Mount SHTPPING on your entire order! Cotlttcct()rs lndividuol volumes olso ovoiloble. (Offer expires 9 / 30 / 09) Go to Woodsmifh.com or Cqll l -800-444-7527 Todoy to Order Yours!

Woodsmith.com Woodsmith 51 Final i:

Co_ffr,: Tnblt. The unique look of the frame and contrast- ing grids immediately draws your attention. But this glass-panel table is surprisingly easy to build. Turn to page 22 andyou'll v find all the details. Frttrrtt' rtrrd lia.cr,/. This small project is a great way to show off your attention to detail. The bonus is that the work will go quickly and, as you can see, the result speaks for itself. Check it out on page 18.

[) rtt p- F ro r r I /.)cs,(. The traditional styl ing of this desk wi I I Httttdy Cottrlttrltr Slorri,{r'. On the inside, the spacious make it an attractive complement to any room. All the desk meets all your modern organizationa' n""Or.Th"1s's v elements are here - slant-front top, frame-and-panel a place for every computer component and plenty of extra look, and simple, tasteful details. lt starts on page 32. storage as well. Online Extra Frame & Easel Optional 11 x 14 Size

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram 11 x 14 Size 1 A Backer Top/Bottom (2) ⁄4 hdbd. - 3 x 11 1 B Backer Side (2) ⁄4 hdbd. - 3 x 20 3 1 C Facing Top/Bottom (2) ⁄8 x 3 ⁄4 - 17 3 1 D Facing Side (2) ⁄8 x 3 ⁄4 - 20 5 E Trim (1) ⁄8 x 1 - 80 (rgh.) 3 F Base Bottom (1) ⁄4 x 5 - 17 3 1 1 G Base Riser (1) ⁄4 x 4 ⁄4 - 15 ⁄2 3 1 H Base Top (1) ⁄8 x 4 ⁄2 - 16 1 1 1 I Frame Stop (1) ⁄4 x ⁄4 - 15 ⁄2 3 J Vertical Support (1) ⁄8 x 1 - 26 3 1 K Clamp (1) ⁄4 x 1 - 1 ⁄2 7 • (4) ⁄8" Brass Turnbuttons w/Screws • (2) #6 x 1" Brass Fh Woodscrews • (1) 10-24 x 2" Brass Machine Screw • (1) #10 Brass Flat Washer • (1) #10 Brass Thumb Nut

!/2" x 4" - 84" Curly Maple (2.3 Sq. Ft.) C C D D

#/4" x 8" - 84" Poplar (4.7 Bd. Ft.) I J F G H K E

NOTE: Parts C, D, E, H, I, and J are planed to correct thickness

ALSO NEEDED: One 12" x 24" sheet !/4" hardboard

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